# Beekeeping routine?



## Johntodd (Feb 6, 2015)

OK, more research is in order.

Maybe let's try it from this approach:

Is it possible to build a routine to follow ALMOST blindly?

As in something like this:

1. Every month spray everything with "X"

2. Every month from May-Sept. also spray with "Y".

3. Scrape combs every week.

4. Do a general inspection of entire operation weekly.

5. Offer sacrifices to the gods daily.

Can it be broken down to a simple routine? There's plenty of food and water for the bees here. If I build a proper hive then I suppose my main concern would be pests like varona. 

But I do want to learn more.

Please advise;
-Johntodd


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## IsedHooah (Jan 13, 2015)

Johntodd said:


> OK, more research is in order.
> 
> Maybe let's try it from this approach:
> 
> ...


With the exception of your spraying shenanigans (and by "scrape combs", I will assume you mean clean up frames by removing burr comb), I believe you are on the right track now. Don't get me wrong, there will be times where you do not have to visit your hives weekly. However, there will be times that you may need to check your hives daily. It's not like you're trying to start a huge operation, so a weekly visit to your hive(s) is what you should expect at a minimum (saying that you have few problems). It is possible to create a schedule to follow, and after you have some experience you most likely will fall into one without knowing it. Just understand that there may come a period, where your schedule is simply an idea that you wish you could adhere to. I will also say this, visiting your hives will most likely become something that you really enjoy doing, and you will probably start finding excuses to open them up outside of your "schedule".


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## Honey-4-All (Dec 19, 2008)

The only thing that is routine in beekeeping is that one must be prepared to jump at all times to changing conditions. 

Sounds like you are looking to make your beekeeping schedule a pat solid one. Forget it. Not happening. 

If your goal is to have a nice firm schedule good luck keeping your bees thriving to their maximum potential.


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## Johntodd (Feb 6, 2015)

OK, well, I'm in over my head for now.

So I'll start next year after I've got the research figured out and the hives built and location prepped and all that.

In the meantime, more reading ahead of me.

Thanks everyone!
-Johntodd


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## Millenia (Apr 8, 2014)

Difficult to stay on schedule if the weather keeps you out.


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## Stephenpbird (May 22, 2011)

Johntodd said:


> So I'll start next year after I've got the research figured out and the hives built and location prepped and all that.


Get a mentor ASAP. Just follow what he does for a year or two. Then you don't need to waste time researching stuff you might never use. He can tell you when the flows are and help you look for a good location.


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## johng (Nov 24, 2009)

I would have to say Yes, and No. To some extent you can do some things by a time table. But, for the most part you have to take each hive and do what it needs at that specific time. 

I think a lot of new beeks get frustrated because there's not a list of things to do and when to do it. The best thing you can do is build your knowledge base on bee biology and bee math and then just get started.


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## texanbelchers (Aug 4, 2014)

johng said:


> I think a lot of new beeks get frustrated because there's not a list of things to do and when to do it.


I'll agree. With my computer/engineering background, I like black and white steps. Although the bees are great engineers, some of them have much more artistic influence and the "rules" don't apply. There appear to be general answers, but if you talk to 5 beeks you may get 10 answers on what to do; there appear to be few absolutes.


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## dudelt (Mar 18, 2013)

Like all things in agriculture, strict timetables don't work very well and location and micro-climates are a huge factor. A mentor is a great help. A local beekeeping club can be a great resource. Do you really want to be applying costly treatments on a set schedule if none is needed? This is why we inspect the hives, to see what is needed at that time and usually, nothing needs to be done. As a beginner, you will want to inspect more often than an old timer. You have much to learn and not just from books. Experience is the best teacher. Not having a set schedule can seem overwhelming at first but you will quickly get the hang of it.


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## Johntodd (Feb 6, 2015)

Oh boy.


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## biggraham610 (Jun 26, 2013)

What is your intention with the bees? Are you looking to just have a couple hobby hives? Or are you looking to build something more? Im just curious what your goals are. G


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## Johntodd (Feb 6, 2015)

We (me and the wife) have 3 goals, in order of importance:

1. To help with CCD.

2. To help pollinate our crops and our extensively huge gardens.

3. Maybe some honey if they've got plenty to spare. We'll be happy with "whatever" in this regard.


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## biggraham610 (Jun 26, 2013)

Well, I think once you start if you start, you will find that you want to be in the hives. You will want to learn what the bees are doing. However, if you are really just interested in the pollination value more than the bees themselves, why dont you just try and find a beekeeper who will plant a hive at your place? G


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

I second the idea to join a local bee club. Lots of people attend our meetings who don't have bees. But, you get to rub elbows with people who are willing to mentor and possibly even put a hive on your property. If nothing else, they are glad for you to come over to their yard and help work their bees.


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## AL from Georgia (Jul 14, 2014)

A general guideline is often referred to as a beekeeping calendar. A beekeeping calendar lists events monthly that most likely need attention. The calendar may need to be adjusted to fit you climate. This usually just involves moving the calendar events a couple of weeks in one direction or the other. I have links to several calendars and handbooks on my website if you want to take a look. A calendar may be a place to start and build from as far as scheduled management tasks. Also, learn to test and treat for Varroa mites as soon as possible. Good luck with your bees.


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## Johntodd (Feb 6, 2015)

I like those calendars! OK, now I'm feeling better.


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## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

Ok, your first goal, you can check off: "Help with CCD".

Did you know that there hasn't been a well-documented case of CCD for several years - at least according to experts (as opposed to the popular press)?

And even if there was, having more beekeepers keeping more hives in the country, especially new hives and hobby operations wouldn't be a help or cure or even a step on the way towards that.

Now you may find the bees help out with your garden - or not - bees forage over a very large area, a couple of miles in all directions. And they tend to ignore small isolated patches of flowers (which is what your squash patch might seem to them) and go for larger groups of flowers that are more economical for them in terms of effort to locate and collect from. I have operated a market veg and fruit operation and I have often been chagrinned when my bees fly right over by blooming crop plants and go for the fields of weeds beyond that. They know what they want, and they can seem pretty picky.

But you will almost certainly get honey (at least after the first year when many beeks leave all the workers make for the bees). 

However, you may find that the most intriguing thing of all is simply being a beekeeper with the care of the bees. I find it addictive.

As for a weekely schedule - one of the most exciting things, at least for me, is the reshaping of my sense of time passing through the gowing season when seen from the bees' point of view. Days and weeks are meaningless, what matters is learning to read what is happening in your hives and knowing when they need attention, and why. Some weeks I have urgent things to do early every day - other weeks all my bee work consists of taking a nap with my feet propped up on the platform as they lull me with their sweet buzz. The more I can get out of my human-world and the more I can get even a tiny peek into the world of my social bugs, the more fascinating I find it.

If you're not starting this summer, it is the best advice of all to find someone who will let you shadow them this year. That way when you're finally ready, you'll be light years ahead of the typical beekeeper starting out.

Hoping bees give you as much pleasure as mine have given me.

Enj.


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## Johntodd (Feb 6, 2015)

OK, I didn't know CCD was mostly fixed. That's great!

Looks like I'll be concentrating more on honey then. I'm a (very) amateur chef, so I'm familiar with the different honey types. It'll be very exciting to help it get made. And some of it will get fermented. 

I'm out on the farm full-time so I understand about the changing of time and schedules. Mother Nature does it her way and everybody else has to comply with that. It is wonderful out here.

Beekeeping is soundly wildly fascinating - but for different reasons than I thought.

Thanks!
-Johntodd


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## MTN-Bees (Jan 27, 2014)

I try to keep a schedule to stay on track, rarely does it work. It's a guideline that is tentative and flexible.


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## Retroguy (Jul 16, 2014)

When it comes to agriculture the only schedule that I've ever seen in black & white was milking the holsteins. <grin>


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## ccar2000 (Aug 9, 2009)

Johntodd, 

This is something I found and have been working on for my locale, High Desert of SoCal 3,000' altitude.
As others have said you must remain fluid and adapt to your specific (think backyard not county, the bees work in a 2-3 mile radius) I hope it helps you with a launching point.

Cycles of the broodnest in managed hives for the High Desert

January, Check deadouts for tiny white specks in the brood cells they are mite feces, diagnostic for PMS. Bees are using the center of the hive like a chimney, and move up into the bee bread and honey in the second box. Check hive weight and feed syrup and/or pollen. Robbing season starts when hives are light and forage is not available. 

Mid-January, Brood starts in the upper box, as the cycle repeats. Bees are making orientation flights and starting to bring in small amounts of pollen. Weather permitting, now is a good time to start feeding light hives. Feed hives with Fumagilin-B for Nosema per label. Time to install robber screens at entrances.

February, The broodnest expands and hive strength is building. The early flow may start and bees are bringing in larger loads of pollen. May not need to provide pollen substitute.

Mid-February, May be time to remove robber screens from entrances. Feed hives with Fumagilin-B syrup for Nosema per label. Check on bee order from apiary

March, All strong colonies should have two brood boxes. The bottom box may be empty, but this provides the foragers a place to cluster inside of the hive rather than bearding. To open the broodnest, remove the two outside position combs and move two frames of the darkest inner comb to the outside positions of the boxes. install two frames of foundation into inner positions to give them a “channel” upwards. Make sure to alternate drawn frames with empty frames so the bees have an easier time keeping the brood warm and drawing straight comb in the middle of the box. Dandelion bloom should be on and the flow is underway. 

Mid-March, The flow continues. Remove feeders and add a queen excluder and a super to each hive. The hive population should be heavy at this time and entrance activity very strong.

April, The flow continues. Remove feeders and add a queen excluder and a super to each hive if not already done. Equalize brood nests in hives. Check bee hives for eggs/brood add pollen patties if no pollen storage.

May, Brood nest continues to grow with the expansion into the lower nest box. Feed new packages and monitor comb building. Get hives up to two deep boxes of drawn comb if possible. Add supers to hives as needed.

June, Maximum brood area, Continue building packages into two deep brood nest. Monitor pollen intake at hive entrances and put out pollen substitute feeders if necessary. Order summer queens.

July, Nest shrinks. Bees are producing less brood. The bees produced now are likely to live longer. Monitor pollen intake at hive entrances and put out pollen substitute feeders if necessary.

Mid-July, Check hives for making summer splits. Install ventilated inner cover and migratory outer cover. 

August, Pollen is collected and stored in the lower brood chamber. Treat hives for Nosema with Nozevit drench? Put out dry pollen substitute and sugar syrup feeders and install robber screens. 

September, Watch for usurping swarms and robbing this time of year. A usurping swarm should be removed and not kept. Remove supers for harvesting honey. Check brood nest to stores ratio, there should be seven or eight combs of brood with honey and pollen on both sides. Set up open sugar syrup feeder. As evening weather begins to cool install standard inner covers winter side up. 


October, The brood and broodnest moves into the lower hive box. Check brood nest to stores ratio, there should be seven or eight combs of brood with honey and pollen on both sides. Install telescoping outer covers. Turn inner covers to the winter side down. The Chamisa flow may be on in late October.

November, There should be no more in-depth hive inspections until spring. Continued shrinking of the broodnest. Spray spare equipment with BT. Order Queens and Package Bees from apiary. Feed hives for the winter using sugar bricks above the inner cover with a feeder shim.

December, A period of broodlessness in December allows for increased grooming behavior against the Varroa mites. Remove robber screens.


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

Johntodd said:


> Looks like I'll be concentrating more on honey then. I'm a (very) amateur chef, so I'm familiar with the different honey types.


You might try harvesting each frame by itself instead of spinning them all together. You will be amazed at how each one can taste different. I actually run topbar hives, so it's all crush and strain in my operation. I only do one comb at a time to bottle for my own use. Each one is unique and so tasty.


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## Riverderwent (May 23, 2013)

"Can it be broken down to a simple routine?"
For me, less is more. Leave the bees plenty of honey to eat, and learn as much as you can from the outside of their house before going in. With bees, as with life, a lot of our problems are caused by solutions. Cheers,


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## Hankdoink (Jun 2, 2014)

Let me tell ya, I been a beekeep for a long long time.
Give me a second to count the days.........................................................roughly 240 days now!
My advice based on my blink of an eye experience, join a club and get a mentor.
You will save yourself alot of frustration by having someone local to ask when you have a question.
Bee keeping is like turkey hunting in the sense that, if you ask five people how to hunt a turkey, you'll get five different answers.
In the end there are some definite do's and dont's, but the rest of it is what you find works best for you.


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## John Scifres (Mar 25, 2014)

Are you familiar with the term "analysis paralysis"? Don't fall victim.

Buy "Beekeeping for Dummies". Buy one starter hive setup. Don't try to follow too many schemes. This is what I did and my first hive survived. I have learned many lessons over the past couple years.

Don't let fear or confusion get in your way.


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## Johntodd (Feb 6, 2015)

John Scifres said:


> Are you familiar with the term "analysis paralysis"? Don't fall victim..


That's what it is for me right now. Thanks.

I shall forge ahead!


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## BadBeeKeeper (Jan 24, 2015)

John Scifres said:


> Are you familiar with the term "analysis paralysis"? Don't fall victim.
> 
> Buy one starter hive setup...This is what I did and my first hive survived. I have learned many lessons over the past couple years.


When I started, I was advised to start with TWO hives, because if you have only one, you have nothing to compare it to; and if that one hive fails, you have nothing. I sort of already realized that and had planned to start with two anyway for just that reason, but it was nice to have that confirmed by someone with a whole lot more experience.

Being able to compare two hives provided more "peace of mind" and less worry about screwing something up.


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## Johntodd (Feb 6, 2015)

Good idea ... I was thinking of two also.


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