# Swarm Trap Entrance



## NAC89 (Jun 1, 2016)

I used the metal discs this year and left a full opening. I had no problems with birds or anything getting into them but I’m sure it could happen. I believe you could drive a nail into the opening and bend it in to make it inaccessible to birds.


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## Buzz-kill (Aug 23, 2017)

I use the metal discs and put a nail in the middle of the hole.


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

My swarm traps have the same 1/2" x 4" slit for the opening. I simply staple a piece of #8 hardware cloth over the opening when I need to move them. I looked at the disc but was afraid it might open while in the back of the SUV.


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## Eikel (Mar 12, 2014)

1/8" hardware cloth with duct tape around the perimeter, a bit more stealthier than the stapler but the same idea


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

Eikel said:


> 1/8" hardware cloth with duct tape around the perimeter, a bit more stealthier than the stapler but the same idea


:thumbsup:
If I could be absolutly, positively, beyond a shadow of a doubt, certain the tape would hold for the half hour the bees are in the back of the suv, I would use duct tape too. As it is, 10 seconds to pop in six staples while it is still 0 dark thirty in the am and I all set.


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## Eikel (Mar 12, 2014)

Agreed but I've found first chachunk of the stapler sets off 7 kinds of excitement in the hive. Haven't had the tape fail yet but then I transport in the back of a pickup which would lead to less excitement if it would fail.


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## Buzz-kill (Aug 23, 2017)

I wouldn't mess with the wire screen. The rotating disk works so well. Just rotate it to the closed vent position right at dusk and they don't even know they have been moved. I moved one eight miles this summer and opened them immediately at the new location. By 10 a.m the next day they were hauling in pollen like crazy.


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## AR1 (Feb 5, 2017)

I just stuffed a bit of steel wool in the entrance. It lets in some air and the bees no way can pull it out. It worked for a short drive, but probably not enough air flow to leave any extended time.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

I have did lots of stuff. My favortite is becoming to take a piece of metal window screen cut a little bigget then the hole and when you jam it in the hole, it holds itself from being jambed in. I have never carried one inside a car with me but have moved some that had more then one way out of the trap due to warping or mice damage and when moving at night the bees really never came out of those holes in any number. I might find one or two crawling around the outside of the box but even with very rough handling due to some being in pretty remote spots, they never boiled out of the hive. YET.
Cheers
gww


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## NY14804 (Feb 8, 2016)

I use the large rotating disc with four different openings on my traps, positioning the full open hole as the trap's entrance for catching a swarm. I was worried birds might enter the trap through the large hole, but the unforeseen problem I had was mice had climbed the tree and moved into the trap through the large hole. I stapled the commonly found 1/2" squares hardware cloth over the hole on the inside of the trap. It keeps out birds and mice and doesn't restrict bees. You could permanently block off or screen off any of the exposed (beyond the disc) remainder of the original 1/2 inch by 4 inch slit at disc installation time.

For ventilation while transporting I also had previously cut two large holes (with a hole saw) on opposite sides of the trap...one low, near the front and one high on the other side near the rear. I stapled 1/8" mesh screen over the inside of the holes and attached slightly larger, square plywood "hole covers" on the outside of the trap, held in place with a few screws. When I want to move the trap with bees in it I rotate the entrance disc to the perforated (screened) position and then remove all but one screw on the side hole covers and rotate them so the side hole openings are fully exposed. Tightening this remaining screw again keeps the hole cover in place so it won't accidentally slip out of position and cover the hole.



FrankBarbee said:


> Next year I am looking at changing the openings to utilize the 4 position metal openings sold by many places. Though in looking it would require the entire opening open to allow the queen to enter. Which could also allow birds to enter. Does anyone else utilize them? If you do, do you do anything to reduce the opening beyond the opening of the metal plate?


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## VaJim (Apr 10, 2010)

I'd like to add a question to this thread. I'm planning on using a standard 5 frame nuc box as a swarm trap. Not clear on how to get the entrance down to the right size, or will it be fine the way it is? Don't want really want to drill holes into the box.

Thanks!


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## VaJim (Apr 10, 2010)

I'd like to add a question to this thread. I'm planning on using a standard 5 frame nuc box as a swarm trap. Not clear on how to get the entrance down to the right size, or will it be fine the way it is? Don't want really want to drill holes into the box.

Thanks!


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

Should just staple 1/2 inch screen to any hole on any hive - that immediately solves problems of birds and mice once and for all (from inside or outside - your pick).
Then you can play with ways to close/open/ventilate/whatever.
Just staple 1/2 inch to every hole and think about the other issues later as they come.


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## Jadeguppy (Jul 19, 2017)

IN the craft section of most stores, you can find plastic mesh sheets. They are reasonably stiff. A screw on one side allows for it to be moved up and down similar to a hardward cloth or wood block door.


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## flyingron (Sep 14, 2017)

Guys around here just stuff foam rubber into hive entrances and the like when they want to plug them.


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## Buzz-kill (Aug 23, 2017)

VaJim said:


> I'd like to add a question to this thread. I'm planning on using a standard 5 frame nuc box as a swarm trap. Not clear on how to get the entrance down to the right size, or will it be fine the way it is? Don't want really want to drill holes into the box.
> 
> Thanks!


It probably is fine the way it is. I would be more concerned that a 5 frame nuc is a little on the small size for a swarm trap. I know they can work but they are about 1/2 the size of the ideal box. A block of would would easily reduce the entrance and simply pull it out and stuff foam rubber in the entrance to move it.


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