# Has anyone tried this?



## Colino (May 28, 2013)

I was playing around in my workshop this a.m. and came up with this idea. I think it could solve some problems, such as cross combing and using a sugar board on a TBH. By altering the topbars to allow for bee space it makes supering easier too by placing a tbh nuc with no bottom on a modified cover board. Below is a link to photos in my dropbox. I call them Colino "I" Bars or scrap lumber if the idea doesn't work.inch:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zco81n781t932rc/9KZDSjEvdw


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## RiodeLobo (Oct 11, 2010)

I have tried something similar, I just used medium standard frames in my TBH so that my package had drawn comb to start with. It worked fine. I don't have them in now, but I could drop frames of honey or to give the colony frames of eggs if needed.


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

How did you get the standard frames to fit the angled walls of the TBH?


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Not all top bar hives have sloping sides. 

http://www.bushfarms.com/beeshorizontalhives.htm
Some may be _sized _to accept Lang frames, but still have simply top bars. :lookout:


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## RiodeLobo (Oct 11, 2010)

Colino said:


> How did you get the standard frames to fit the angled walls of the TBH?


Yes as Graham pointed out not all TBHs have slanted sides. I built mine to accept a medium frame with slanted sides underneath the frame for the reasons I pointed out.


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

I guess I should have been more explicit, I should have said Kenyan Top Bar Hive. What I was trying to point out with my design is the built in bee space in a plain top bar. Two simple 3/16 cuts along each side is easy to do and there is no need to buy frames etc. so they can be built from inexpensive or scrap material. By having the bee space it allows you to feed sugar and patties right above the cluster, which in southern climes is not a problem but from what I've read in northern climates starve outs in TBH's is a problem because sometimes the bees don't want to move sideways.


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## RiodeLobo (Oct 11, 2010)

My apologies I did not think the shape of the box would negatively impact the similalarities of the principle. 
Good day


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

I took no offense I was just trying to further my explanation. Sorry if I came across as rude that was not my intent.


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## Delta Bay (Dec 4, 2009)

For your location Colino I would think having your bars will come in very handy for emergency feeding when needed. I have tried the same and found that with a feeder shim (shallow box on top) it is so much easier to just lift the roof having access to refill when needed. In my location it isn't necessary to super a TBH but it maybe in your area. Shows your thinking!

ABC in Calgary has a TBH Super Design for the hives they use because of being in a high honey producing area. I don't think they have the space built into the bar but rather the bars are spaced to allow passage once the time comes to super. Check it out if you haven't seen it yet.

http://bees4communities.wordpress.com/2012/04/03/super-top-bar-hives-a-b-cs-new-tbh-super-design-for-2012/


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

Good Morning Delta Bay:
I had thought about spacing my top bars but I was worried that the Bees would not build their comb on the top bars but across them because it would increase the width center to center. Also I thought to keep the bees from scurrying up through the slots when inspecting, I would use something like a thin Bamboo mat placed under the cover board that could be rolled up as I did my inspections if they don't glue it down too bad. Thank you for the ABC link I had no idea they existed.:applause:


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## Metropropolis (Feb 15, 2012)

Before I read your message, I knew the answer to your question was yes.

Behind us is a long heritage of innovators, and creating something that hasn't been considered before is an elusive challenge.

Nonetheless, I was surprised to see that your idea was something that I had also developed for supering my own Top Bars. Almost exactly. Parallel evolution strikes again!


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## stan.vick (Dec 19, 2010)

And again


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

Excellent! How do they work? I just ripped mine off of 2x4 so the base is about 1-1/2 inches wide. I cut the grooves each side 3/16 so the bar ends up about 1-1/8 wide. I just set my table saw blade height at 3/16 and ran the bar side ways over the blade. I'm expecting a Dado blade set from Santa so my next set will be prettier. What do you think about the Bamboo mat idea for inspections? :applause:Thanks for the replies.


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## Metropropolis (Feb 15, 2012)

My own are bars are 1 3/8, and the gap is 1/4" wide. I alternate between normal and "open" bars, as two side by side would make 1/2", which is undesirable.

I've determined that they also act as a de-facto queen excluder, so I did away with using a QE above. 

So far, so good.

I've looked for pictures of a completed bar, but can't find any. Instead, here's a picture of the building of one. Gives enough of an idea.


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## Delta Bay (Dec 4, 2009)

Colino said:


> I had thought about spacing my top bars but I was worried that the Bees would not build their comb on the top bars but across them because it would increase the width center to center.


The bees need to build the combs out before spacing, the same as spacing Langstroth boxes from 10 down to 9 frames. I would still use what you have though. 




> Also I thought to keep the bees from scurrying up through the slots when inspecting, I would use something like a thin Bamboo mat placed under the cover board that could be rolled up as I did my inspections if they don't glue it down too bad.


Should work. I roll a piece of canvas over the top bars and they do propolize it down but isn't a problem.


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

Metropropolis:
You just solved my problem of how to integrate them into my existing hives. I'll make some like yours to expand them and use my new design for new hives. 
Delta:
I like your idea of the canvas better than mine I think I'll use that instead.


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