# Swarm Trap design



## Bill Dickerson (Nov 8, 2008)

I'm considering using picnic coolers (igloo, coleman). The 40 to 50 quart size are about the correct trap cubic footage.

I thought I would line the interior with old wood fence planks to make it a little more bee friendly.

I can hang a couple of old comb frames inside.

The coolers often thrown out and are plentiful.

I'm new to this and I was hoping for some input. Can anyone see any issues I have missed?


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## scdw43 (Aug 14, 2008)

I don't know if it will work or not, I have seen them in a plastic mailbox.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

You will probably spend as much time and money on them as making some five frames nucs from plywood, which will be useful and sale-able for years to come. I tried styrafoam fish boxes and wood wine boxes, which both are time consuming and not long lasting when completed. Often saving money is a poor value.
Not that I will quit doing it.


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## Ben Brewcat (Oct 27, 2004)

Kudos for re-using items creatively, but I agree with odfrank. When you get a swarm you'll need to cut out comb which is a hassle for you and disruptive to the establishing colony. Something that'll use frames throughout makes moving to regular equipment easy. I also think the cooler might be difficult to ventilate adequately.


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## Fuzzy (Aug 4, 2005)

I made 5 frame Nuc boxes that take standard frames. OR, I use a full size deep with frames. I really don't want to be doing cutouts after a swarm arrives. The nuc boxes attract most of the swarms and 3 weeks after arrival they are primed and ready to go into a larger box.

Fuzzy


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## dixiebooks (Jun 21, 2010)

The 5-frame nuc plans from DCoates probably makes all the other simple and low-cost ideas obsolete.

Go to: http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa190/Drew454/Nuc plans/

-James


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## Bill Dickerson (Nov 8, 2008)

I was planning on hanging a couple of frames so I was hoping that would eliminate having to cut any comb. 

I was concerned about ventilation. Some coolers have drain spouts and I was thinking about leaving it open or I could drill another hole for cross ventilation.

I understand light from the top would discourage a swarm.

The things are insulated so well I'm not sure if that's a plus or minus. I don't want condensation but I was thinking the interior wouldn't be so subject to temp fluctuation.

What about mounting. Should a swarm trap be immovable with a solid mount or more flexible with say straps?


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## Ben Brewcat (Oct 27, 2004)

With just a couple frames, you'll need to be checking every trap every day (oof). Swarms draw comb amazingly quickly once they settle in and then it's a mess. I check traps maybe once a week... if they're buzzin, come back later and move them. 

DEFINITELY movable rather than permanent... you'll much prefer to be able to close it up in the evening and drive it home to re-hive conveniently at the new location rather than transferring comb to new boxes up in a tree (losing many to most of the bees in the process). Just my $.02.


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## Bill Dickerson (Nov 8, 2008)

That is fast. I wasn't aware of that.

In reference to immovable I meant that some of the traps I'm seen photos of appear to be almost swinging.

I suppose they wouldn't mind a tree moving a little in the wind but it would seem that moving around too much would discourage settlement.


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## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

Condensation won't be a problem, but heat will. I think a cooler is a great idea, but you will definitely want a swarm trap that holds frames for easy transfer.

I had some of those cone-style traps. They caught swarms, but the transfer into a Langstroth hive was too tramatic. The bees didn't like it either.

I like 6-frame nuc boxes.

Why 6 frames? I was cheap and built them out of used lumber. It was the dimensions that left the least amount of waste. Yep, saving money is a poor value.

Take a look at this web site for some alternative ideas, but in the long run, nuc boxes make the best swarm traps...and they hold frames.

Grant
Jackson, MO http://feralhoneybees.homestead.com/

www.swarmtrapping.homestead.com


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## peacekeeperapiaries (Jun 23, 2009)

The 5 frame nuc...one of the most underrated tools in the beekeepers arsenal. I use 5 frame nucs for swarm traps, and i fill them with foundationless frames, deep frames with a triangle wedge stapled to the top bars. I rub the wedges with fresh beeswax, and use a q-tip dipped in LGO and a Dadant swarm lure for attractant. Swarms want and need to draw wax so they really take to the foundationless frame. Once you catch a swarm, just put the nuc in your beeyard and put a new one in its place, will probably catch another swarm.


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## Bill Dickerson (Nov 8, 2008)

I have never seen the square pulp wood box that I see on http://feralhoneybees.homestead.com/Trap1.html

Can you advise the name of the manufacturer? 

I'd like to ask him/her question on the production.

I've fooled with the pulp design without success.


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## fish_stix (May 17, 2009)

The "pulpwood" traps have been discussed at length on this forum. If you live in an area with medium to large amounts of rainfall, the pulpwood will suck up water like a sponge. You've had the good answers here already. A 5 or 6 frame nuc, easily built out of scrap plywood, is the most effective swarm trap; takes regular frames which are then easily moved into a hive body. Why try to reinvent the wheel? DCoates nuc is slick and easy to build, not much woodworking skill needed. Build several and quit fooling with unworkable solutions to problems that don't exist!


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## Bill Dickerson (Nov 8, 2008)

I agree the answers I have received are great and I don't want to reinvent the wheel but I have always had a problem with "that's the way it's always been done".

I did a search but there doesn't seem to be a consistent term for the pulp swarm boxes and my hits are all over the place.

I learn something new each time I post. I have seen the flower pot type and couldn't figure out why they didn't make a rectangular pulp wood swarm box. 

I have lots of time on my hands and the geek in me wants to work a problem. 

Just looking for any insight from the experienced beeks.


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## waynesgarden (Jan 3, 2009)

Earlier this year, I built a few of the plywood nucs from the plans that DCoates had posted. I set one out on a post and used the rest as nucs for splits. Last week I cut the parts for over a hundred more. (I get all the scrap plywood I can use from where I work.) I'll be putting these everywhere I can find a place to hang them.

The cooler idea is doable. The biggest benefit to the cheap plywood swarm trap, though, is that no one will steal it to use it as a cooler.

Wayne


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## Bill Dickerson (Nov 8, 2008)

The coolers are free since I curb them. 

If somebody needs a cooler that bad to climb for it I guess they need it more than I.

The only cost to me would be a few frames. Although I would probably be a little miffed if I caught them. 

I do come across plywood. I'm assuming treated lumber/plywood wood be a problem off gassing making it un-welcomning to the bees.


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## max2 (Dec 24, 2009)

I just got back from working overseas for 4 weeks. I noticed a small swarm and wanted to box it into a trap hive I had sitting on a rain water tank. I opened the lid to check the frames - loo and behold there is a busy box full of bees!
A lovely surprise. I have been very successful in catching and keeping swarmes this year. I use a nuc box as suggested by most here with some Lemon Grass oil and it is easy and works.


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## fish_stix (May 17, 2009)

Bill; the reason for "that's the way it's always been done" is because many folks over the years have already found what works and doesn't work. Keep in mind here, the goal is to catch swarms of bees, not build traps. It's like buying a new drill; do you really want a new drill or do you want the nice round hole the drill can make? After catching the swarm, it's really nice to be able to transfer them directly into a hive box because swarms build FAST! We use foundationless frames with a guide bar and rub the edge with wax. It's not unusual for a swarm to draw out all 5 or 6 frames in less than a week and they need to be transferred into a hive body at that point. There's also the caveat about "making your own mistakes or using others' mistakes" to learn from. It's far easier to let others make the mistakes!


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## Bill Dickerson (Nov 8, 2008)

I'm here cause all you fellows have been doing this successfully all these years. 

I want to catch swarms but maybe I can recycle the coolers and not have to build the boxes. 

I'm just throwing ideas against the wall to see what sticks. With all of the stuff I'm learning from Y'all s experience maybe I can entice a few bees to be caught.

The coolers are large enough to hang frames but I hadn't considered foundation-less frames.


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## Countryboy (Feb 15, 2009)

If you wanted to use a cooler as a swarm trap, you could also use it as an insulated overwintering nuc.

http://www.beebehavior.com/polystyrene_nucs.php
(scroll halfway down the page to the cooler nucs)


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## Bill Dickerson (Nov 8, 2008)

Well obviously I'm not the first guy to consider using coolers. 

The pictures are great. It's along the line of how I thought I would hang the frames. 

I would worry about new coolers since they may off gas a little. Probably would not be a problem but plastics give off weird fumes sometimes.

The Nuc idea looks good. I know the state has started encouraging local queen rearing so it's looks like a good option


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## reneal (Sep 6, 2006)

Well, I tried being really cheap too and built some swarm traps out of 1/4 inch plywood. After all, they're only out in the spring & everyone knows is doesn't rain much in the Pacific NW in the spring. I made these the same dimensions as a deep box and drilled a hole in one side for an entrance for the bees. After a couple seasons these boxes were getting pretty rickety, but I was still using them. I get a call from a renter telling me there are bees in my trap & they've been there a week or so. So about dusk I go over with the ladder to get them off the top of a mobile home. 

Boy, there were a lot of bees. They're bearding! The duct tape I took over to seal the entrance hole won't stick. At this point I went to plan B. Meanwhile the renter was looking for a camera & I'm envisioning Americas funniest Home videos. Anyway, I stuff a rag into the entrance & vacuum up as many of the outside bees as I can & start to slip a garbage sack over the hive, but it seems the hive is glued down. I finally get up on the trailer & discover its not glued down, just weighs about 60 lbs. Since its a flimsy box, that means there's a lot of honey in there. Anyway, its almost dark & I'm slipping a garbage sack over the box, & now the bees are coming out from around the lid too. I finally get two bags put on from opposite directions & get it sealed up. Then I'm trying to balance this heavy flimsy box on my shoulder while climbing down a ladder. Got the bees moved safely home & didn't get stung, but will stick to sturdier bee boxes for my traps from now on. There was just too many ways for things to go wrong.


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## Wits End (May 16, 2009)

I used the plans mentioned above (http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa190/Drew454/Nuc plans/) and was amazed at how efficient and quick it was to make. It took about 20 minutes to make out of very little scrap and holds 5 deep frames perfectly. Just sayin'


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

but will stick to sturdier bee boxes for my traps from now on[/QUOTE said:


> That is why i gave up on Styrofoam fish box hives, bee eat thru them. An wine boxes are thin and warp, making for bee leaks. I highly suggest entrance discs for swarm traps. Make for quick, easy, bee tight retrievals.
> Kelly's entrance disk:


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## Bill Dickerson (Nov 8, 2008)

The quarter inch plywood the size of a deep I can see it being weak. Using that thickness with the DCoates 5 frame Nuc might work better.

Although the 5 frame might have been too small for such a large a swarm.

I figured the 5 frame to be a little over 1/2 cubic foot. 

I watched a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=na3owKhF9m4 and the fellow related 30 to 40 liters (approx. 1 to 1.5 cubic foot) to be the ideal size.

What do y'all consider to be an ideal internal volume?


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## S&H (Feb 25, 2010)

It appears to be dependent on race:

http://www.jstor.org/pss/25084218


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