# building ttbh



## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)

If you glue up 1x6's instead it is supposed to keep it from warping as much. just make sure to use waterproof gorilla glue or titebond III 

also i bet for such a short length the end pieces will do a lot to control any twisting.


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## avalonweddingsbcs (May 2, 2010)

short ? thought it was long.... what is the normal length for a tbh?


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## Daddy'sBees (Jul 1, 2010)

Usually 48 inches in length is normal. I like 44 inches myself. It is easier to remove and place back my tops.


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## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)

avalonweddingsbcs said:


> short ? thought it was long.... what is the normal length for a tbh?


short for a wooden box is what i meant. structure wise i don't think you should have too many issues.. especially if you build up your boards. if you had the equipment you could biscuit or peg join them and it would be bomb proof.


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## Daddy'sBees (Jul 1, 2010)

My general plans are based on these:
http://www.lulu.com/product/ebook/how-to-build-a-top-bar-hive/6288193 ;
Linked from here:
http://www.biobees.com/forum/index.php

I also use "T" top bars with 1/4 inch square strips.


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## honeybeekeeper (Mar 3, 2010)

I use 2" x 12" Lumber for the sides, 1" x 12" Lumber for the ends and I dont have to worry about it bowing! It might be heavier but it wont bow and better side insulation.


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## LenInNorCal (Feb 28, 2009)

Consider building a couple of TBH. One could only be a foot long! Another 3' another as long as you wish, as there is no 'standard'. May I suggest using Langstroth bars, just the top part as the frame would not fit, and when you get really hooked, as in the first taste of your own honey, you can transfer them or interchange the comb with the 'Langs' folks that you may run into. Trust me, comb is as valuable, or more so, than honey, and yours will be more perfect than those Langs folks that build theirs on foundation, IMO, as your will be 'naturally' resistant to varroa due to cell size. 
I suggest the smaller size hives per practice, possible swarms, queen rearing, and the fun of designing & modifying your own. No biggie. Be advised that TBH has a whole different management of the girls, so read up first on that.


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## Adam Foster Collins (Nov 4, 2009)

I've made 7 hives so far. 6 are 4 feet long. Two of those are made of 1x12 and there was a bit of bowing, but it was't a big deal - just try to select straight grained wood.

I also built 4 out of 2x12 stock, and I must say, they are sweet. I had a bear drag one 100 feet over boulders and roots and he didn't break the window in the side. 

I also like the slightly deeper entrance and the added rigidity for moving.

That said, it is more material.

I used end entrances, with the bottom board extended to create a landing board. Then I sloped that with a planer to shed water. The dimensions of the boxes are 48"x18"x11". It makes a nice volume, but you'll still wish you had more room...

I also built one that is only about 2 feet long. It functions as a trap or nuc box as I need it. I made that out of 1/2" marine ply, and it's nice and light.

As someone mentioned, there are no rules. A lot of the fun of a tbh is the design and experimentation inherent in taking that road.


Adam

Adam


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

My KTBH is pretty stable, but the TTBH I put a two by two rail down the side, both for lifting and for stability.


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## 11x (May 14, 2009)

avalonweddingsbcs said:


> gonna try to build a ttbh this winter. I plan on using normal 1x12s from lowes for materials, but..
> 
> If i build it around 4', i was wondering about braces ..
> 
> ...


why not put the braces on the outside??


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## honeybeekeeper (Mar 3, 2010)

avalonweddingsbcs said:


> gonna try to build a ttbh this winter. I plan on using normal 1x12s from lowes for materials,
> 
> cause i was wondering if anyone has ever had a hive bow in or out on the longside..


I used 2x12 for the sides & for the follower boards and 1x12 for the ends!


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## mmiller (Jun 17, 2010)

honeybeekeeper said:


> I used 2x12 for the sides & for the follower boards and 1x12 for the ends!


I'm with honeybeekeeper. Not only is this stronger with better insulation, but 2x12 boards are cheaper than 1x12 boards. Not a big deal to save $3-4 per hive but I am in the process of building 20 and the savings adds up.
Also I build to 44" so that I can use 48" material for the roofs with a smidge of overhang. 

Mike


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## LenInNorCal (Feb 28, 2009)

Do you guy that use 2x12s have windows on one side of the hive so that you could peer into for observation? I am amazed at a 4' hive made of 2x12s! Besides insolation, why?
I am curious; it's just that out here we don't get that cold, so let me know.


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## honeybeekeeper (Mar 3, 2010)

Yes i have a Observation top bar hive. I have a 1" thick piece of styro-foam R-insulation cut to the size of the opening and then i close the window and then latch it! Works just fine!!


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## mmiller (Jun 17, 2010)

This weekend a friend called me up and asked if I could use a couple of 2x12x12ft. Thats sides for 3 hives! Free! Since 2x12 lumber is more common than 1x12 I tend to stumble across it more often being given away.

They are heavier but, when these hives have bees you really need 2 people to move them anyway so it doesn't matter if its 1" or 2" material.


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