# Protecting wood: Thompson's water seal



## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

http://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=20008008

Warning from 
Product Label: Danger! Contains petroleum distillates. Harmful or fatal if swallowed. Combustible. Do not take internally. May cause skin irritation. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. Keep from heat, sparks, flame. Avoid inhaling and use only with adequate ventilation. If using indoors, open all windows and doors to make sure there is enough fresh air movement. If you experience light headedness and dizziness or headaches increase fresh air movement or leave the area. Reports have associated repeated or prolonged occupational over exposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents may be harmful or fatal. Keep out of reach of children. First Aid: Ingestion - if swallowed, do not induce vomiting. Wipe out mouth and call physician or poison control center immediately. Eye Contact - In case of eye contact, IMMEDIATELY flush eyes with water, then remove contact lenses. Continue to flush eyes with water for at least 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation develops or persists. Skin Contact - For skin contact, wash thoroughly with mild soap and water. Get medical attention if irritation develops and persists. Inhalation - If affected by inhaling, immediately remove to fresh air. If symptoms persist, call a physician. 
Acute Health Effects: From MSDS
Effects from inhalation, eye or skin contact: None expected. Do not ingest.

Medical Conditions Generally Aggravated by Exposure: None known.

Chronic Health Effects: MSDS provides no information about chronic health effects resulting from prolonged or frequent use of this product. 
Carcinogenicity: MSDS: The ingredients in this product are not identified as carcinogens by NTP, IARC and OSHA. 
Health Rating: 1 
Flammability Rating: 0 
Reactivity Rating: 0 
HMIS Rating Scale: 0 = Minimal; 1 = Slight; 2 = Moderate; 3 = Serious; 4 = Severe; 
N = No information provided by manufacturer; * = Chronic Health Hazard 
MSDS Date: 1995-09-01 





Handling/Disposal 
Handling: MSDS: Protect from freezing. Do not ingest. Do not store below 32F. In case of accidental freezing, call the Thompson's Help Line. Keep out of reach of children. Do not take internally. 
Disposal: MSDS: Dispose of in accordance with applicable federal, state, and local regulations.


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## rantcliff (Sep 16, 2007)

*Minwax*

I had the same question and finally ended up using Minwax Polyurethane Clear to show the natural wood finish. Seems to be working fine, I let it air a couple of days before introducing the bees and have not seen any ill effects. There are several photos on my blog.


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## bettinacharlotta (Nov 7, 2007)

Yeah, I won't get the bees until spring, so if I do use the stuff, hopefully there won't be any fumes left. It would all be on the outside of the hive soaked into the wood, so it seems like it'd be safe.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I waterproofed a tipi once with Thompson's. It smelled bad for years...


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## Natural Resources (Dec 21, 2007)

In my experience I seal all wooden parts with kilzs latex sealer primer first, then paint them with a exterior latex paint. I paint everything and in the end it does not really matter because somethings mildew, paint scrapes off, but you can always repaint. Of course, if you do not want paint just use polyurethane, its food safe and works great.


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## WVbeekeeper (Jun 4, 2007)

Ross, that was the first thing I did when I read this thread, I looked up the MSDS sheet for it. I was going to just simply reply to use paraffin and gum rosin seeing how this is a preferred treatment for woodenware for some beeks. I use Kilz2 for exterior applications for a primer/sealer/stainblocker and it's mildew resistant. It comes in the white and blue can. Over that I'll use an exterior latex flat paint. I'll usually choose a brand of paint that resists mildew as well. I like water based primer and paint. It's the easiest to clean out of your brushes and off my skin.


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## Oldbee (Sep 25, 2006)

I painted the pallets that my hives are sitting on with Thompson's. Would this be harmful?


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## WVbeekeeper (Jun 4, 2007)

Oldbee said:


> I painted the pallets that my hives are sitting on with Thompson's. Would this be harmful?


You know when bees are washboarding it looks like they scrubbing the surface with their feet. I've watched them close up before while washboarding and it looked like they had their tongues out as well. Maybe collecting small particles they've scrubbed up for use somewhere else? I don't think it would hurt them as long as it is dry or cured and they don't try to eat it.


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Even if it isn't toxic, I don't think it is a very good product.

If for some reason you don't want to paint, then yes I would use the exterior grade polyurethane. You will have to recoat every 2 - 3 years. You could also first coat with lindseed oil, wipe off the excess, let it dry, then finish with the polyurethane. I just made 3 toy chests for the grand kids out of cherry and that is what I did. The poly will seal it very well, no worries. It does eventually break down from the uv like any coating.

For pallets I wouldn't waste the time or money on it. The beauty of pallets is they are free. So when they rot out, just burn them and replace.


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## Nate (Dec 16, 2007)

what about spar urethane? Will it work the same as exterior polyurethane??


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## NW IN Beekeeper (Jun 29, 2005)

*Consider a muted paint color*

Ok, Its the first of the year, so I will make a stab at this once for the 2008 year. 

[Product Label: Danger! Contains petroleum distillates.]

Yes, until dry. Enough fear mongering here, its not nice stuff until it dries and cures but its fine once it dries. I don't like it because it doesn't last and can't be applied in colder temps (doesn't penetrate well and lasts even shorter). It can take a while for it to cure. For the dollar, there are better alternatives. 

[...was thinking of using linseed oil, until I found it attracts mildew.]

I liked it, but again it needs to be applied when warmer. It does attract mildew, especially if your hives are located among trees. While it can make things look dirty, it really has little impact on the bees. The mildew is on the surface (not in the wood if applied correctly) so its more or less cosmetic. Price isn't bad, but naked wood tends to need 3+ coats the first time around. It can need to be applied each year and be a high maintenance product but it is still more environmentally friendly than other water seals. 

[...then yes I would use the exterior grade polyurethane.]

I wouldn't, I don't like how the product skins, flakes, and peels as it ages. It shards rather small and is tough to clean up. Later applications require that the loose peeling layer be removed to prevent the under layers to further peel (this isn't fun nor easy). If you use throw away paint brushes and try liners clean up isn't so bad (but the planet still has to eat the stuff in a landfill). This isn't a particularly cheap product either. 

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I wanted a natural look for the hives in my back yard when I started. 
After testing all the above (see I just don't gripe I DO test!). 
Most clear coats do not provide enough uv protection to actually protect wood. For that you need something that actually blocks the sunrays, and this is best achieved with solids found in paint. Oil base paints (especially cheap ones) tend to flake and peel like polyurethane. I don't want that in my yard, hives, or my honey. So I have resolved myself back to using a good quality latex paint. These do not tend to skin (unless uncured/undry) and do not peel/flake until after many years of service. And if you buy a color that matches your area (perhaps a mute grey/brown/green) they blend well enough. I also like the latex tends to seal the finger joint corners of boxes (don't expect this of any water seal product). 

I also like latex because it is easy clean up at application and its also not so bad to work with when re-painting equipment. It sands and resurfaces well for a new application. This is a serious long term point to consider. 
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Another option, though really only financially viable on a large scale is to hot wax dip your boxes (or find someone nice enough in your area to do it for you at a reasonable cost). This of course is if anyone in your area does. I know next to nobody in my area (Indiana) does and that those do only do it for themselves. This tends to last long, does not promote any mildew, and is well penetrated into the wood (accidental hive tool scratches don't void the warranty). But the equipment has to be built or bought and so does all the wax. It can also be a dangerous set-up if performed improperly (lots of hot wax and an intense fire source). 

For the risk and cost, if you have minimal hives, I'd still recommend a good tinted latex paint. It won't take long before you dismiss the hives in the yard as you would any bush or small tree. 

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## Hobie (Jun 1, 2006)

WVbeekeeper said:


> I like water based primer and paint. It's the easiest to clean out of your brushes and off my skin.


A painter friend of mine told me that, for mildew resistance, you always use the water-base Kilz primer, because there is something in the oil base that the mildew just thrives on. Sounds counter-intuitive, but he swore it was true.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Boiled linseed oil contains heavy metal driers. Raw linseed oil takes forever to dry. Neither provides a lot of protection, but they sure make wood look pretty. I'd save it for furniture.
http://www.myoldtools.com/table/20071216-20071216-_MG_6059.jpg


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## Robert Hawkins (May 27, 2005)

I use the linseed oil on rifle stocks and pistol grips. I had a five month old painted box break on me from the weight and don't paint anymore. Why don't you try an experiment an let us know how long a box will last in Conn. w/o paint. Please don't use the petroleum based sealers.

My guess is if you do it now, it will take until the bees are cooped up over winter before they abscond and then you'll blame it on beetles, mites or Italians. This thread will bee forgotten. Good luck.

Hawk


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## mac (May 1, 2005)

Thompson’s has to be reapplied every year or 2. It doesn’t last long.


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