# Swarm Traps complete!



## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

40 liter size. Holds frames. Painted and ready to go when the time is right. Bit early right now but wanted to get them done so that I can start on building nucs etc.


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## DRAKOS (Oct 17, 2011)

Nice work, what a camo, like special forces in the woods!!


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## tefer2 (Sep 13, 2009)

Better draw a map, you'll never find them again. Great paint job!


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## CaBees (Nov 9, 2011)

Very nice! How much do they weight? Do you put empty frames inside (did you build a ridge so you can)?


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

They are a bit heavy since made from 1/2" MDO but all will be placed under a branch so I can lower them with a rope. No ladder climbing while carrying these babies for me! They can take frames and I plan on putting 2-3 in each. You can just see the frames in the middle one with the top off.


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## CaBees (Nov 9, 2011)

Yes, I see the frames...very clever design! Are there wild hives that you know of in your neck of the woods?


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## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

Please report whether the bees used your frames as intended or built comb where they wished when your traps succeed. I'm interested in knowing how that works out. If I painted my traps that dark a color the bees would belt down and abscond in my climate. Ask me how I know. Foundation or foundationless?


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

No feral hives that I have spotted recently but am hoping for some marked queens since there are quite a few beeks in the area. 

In Texas I wouldn't paint them this color either but up here quite a few beeks keep dark hives year round and provide good top ventilation on the really hot spells!

Frames are old drawn comb. If I am lucky enough to catch any I am hoping that I get them before they have a chance to make too big a mess inside the box. Will keep you posted!


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

A couple of people have contacted asking about the dimensions so here we go . . . 

I tried to replicate all of the research that Dr. Seely did in his book "Honeybee Democracy"

I make all of the parts from 1/2" MDO plywood. I use this because it is extremely resistant to weather and I get it for free from a friend who owns a sign shop. You can use regular plywood too as long as you prime and paint it. Should last years.

I assemble with a pneumatic stapler using Titebond III glue. Best glue IMHO!

Sides are 19 x 15 (2 needed)

Ends are 11 x 15 (2needed)

Botttom is 20 x 11 (1 needed)

Top is 21 5/8 x 11 1/8 

The feet and the end strips on the migratory cover are self explanatory. Just put on what looks right. I used some pressure treated strips for the feet in case they sit in a damp place but dont think this is critical at all.

The rails that hold the frames are 1/2" MDO strips. They are installed 3/4" from the top edge to allow beespace over the tops of the frames.

The hole is 1 1/4" and the bottom edge of the hole is 2" from the bottom edge of the box. I have metal entry discs on order from Walt Kelly that will be used to close the entrances after a swarm has moved in. 

I put a screened hole in the bottom of the box about 4 inches in diameter and cover it from the outside with a scrap of wood. After catching a swarm and closing the Kelly disc the board covering the screen hole will be removed to allow ventilation during transport back to my beeyard.

All of this matches what was most successful for Dr. Seely so it should work just fine. I put three frames of old comb in them with a few drops of lemongrass oil.


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

Some detail photos . . .


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## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

Nice work!


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