# Ants



## gone2seed (Sep 18, 2011)

cinnamon powder helps until the rain washes it away.I would be careful with the poison powder given the way bees will try anything when pollen is in short supply.


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## Fl_Beak (May 9, 2010)

currently open feeding dry pollen (being ignored), and some are getting pollen patties...but bees are bringing in pollen pretty good this morning.


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## JRG13 (May 11, 2012)

never had luck with my ants. Walked over the Cinnamon like nothing. DE worked for about 2 days, then they just ignored it. Cin. extract worked for 3 days or so but not worth the $$ for the coverage area and it evaporated quick. Borax/syrup baits are your best bet, but don't expect it to wipe out the colony, just reduce the population down. High temp bearing grease on the stand legs seems to be a favorite, but that just keeps them out, doesn't take care of the problem


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## JClark (Apr 29, 2012)

Put the hive stand legs in containers w/ some water in them. If there is no contact between the container sides and the stand legs (and no weeds touching the stand/hive) the ants will not be able to get on the hives since they can't cross the water barrier. Must keep the containers clean of leaves and debris so the ants don't find a way across.

If they are fire ants then use some oil on top of the water--they can raft across water (an adaptation to periodic flooding of their native habitat).

Tanglefoot around the legs has worked for me too but the ants will get across in time if persistent (never tried w/ fire ants). Any method needs to prevent access long enough for them to forget about the food there. This may be a few days or weeks depending on the ant species.


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## Fl_Beak (May 9, 2010)

My main concern is a medium sized blank ant, but I have observed several species. This particular black ant is more numerous and persistant than the red sugar ant, or larger looking carpenter ant. I'll have to figure out some type of hive stand to do an oil or water barier. Right now I'm 4x4 on cinder blocks


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## TPalmer (Jun 11, 2012)

My backyard has every kind of ant but fire ants and grease at the bottom of the hive stand legs is the only way I could stop the ant train. Here are some pictures of what I did. The first one is the the cheapest using tuna cans and ripped 2x4's for legs.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8311221444/

The second one is a little more sturdy with 4x4's for legs.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8310170985/

Hope this helps


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## JClark (Apr 29, 2012)

Try painting a 4" swath of tanglefoot around the cinder blocks as a temporary measure. 
http://www.amazon.com/Tanglefoot-30...TF8&qid=1356546986&sr=8-2&keywords=tanglefoot

Works for me on the stands w/ paver bricks for legs. Just be sure to spread it ALL the way around. Or you could do the same thing on the 4x4s on each side of the hive (I always end up putting something on it when I do it this way). Stuff seems to last a while too.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Here are several designs to choose from:

http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...ctually-Works!&highlight=ant+proof+hive+stand


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## nelsonyunzal (Sep 7, 2012)

Fl_Beak said:


> Hope your holidays are enjoyable!
> 
> I'm finding some very persistant ants getting into my NUC feeders, and now a pollen trap. Do you find you any effective steps against ants? I've tried diatomacious earth, I've made some poltical sign poison traps with ant gel (and put them between the collection try of the pollen trap and its bottom, away from pollen and bees), but the ants just keep showing up...
> 
> ...










Please see the attached picture, for your reference.
Sometimes, it's a good way to keep the ants away.


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## mierebucovina (Jan 2, 2013)

And do not forget that a hill of ants can carry a kg of honey in one night. So keep ants away from the hives if you want honey.


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