# Miller hive top feeder construction, sealing



## snarky (Oct 6, 2006)

I am planning on making some miller type feeders fom the plans here on beesource, but wanted to know what people are using as a sealant around the chambers and what is recommended as a coating - paint, polyurethane, oil, latex?

I don't want to use something that might either fail or leach stuff that would kill the bees


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## Craig (Aug 4, 2010)

JG,
I put two coats of poly on the inside then melted some paraphin wax, Poured it in, made sure it got into the corners. I then filled them with water to check for leaks (had none!!). I have not used them yet as I intend to use them in the spring for the girls.
Hope this helps!


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

This method will work well. I did the same on mine and have never had a leak, year after year.


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## Dave W (Aug 3, 2002)

Here's MO 

Do NOT place the feeder bottom into a groove as shown on the beesource drawing (sorry Barry ). There is no good way of sealing that type of joint. Cabinet and door makers often use this method when they WANT the panel to MOVE inside the groove (when panel shrinks for example). Make your feeder and attach bottom to the bottom w/ lots of strong WATERPROOF glue (glue should ooze out both sides if you have use enough). If you need some beespace between feeder and hive, just add strips once bottom has dried.

Based on my dealings w/ wood, I cant belive a wood feeder doesnt leak, but I have been wrong before


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

It doesn't leak because the bottom panel is plywood and will not expand and contract like solid wood might. I glue the bottom panels in when assembling as well.


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## Bens-Bees (Sep 18, 2008)

I tried wax but had lots of leaks... so then I just sealed it with caulk, GE silicone II caulk... no more leaks after that.


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

Here's a few things to consider:
- If you don't use the grooves provided in the plans, you have to nail on another piece of wood to provide the bee space under the feeder.
- Apply your marine varnish or poly before you seal the seams, as you want a good seal on the wood, before you wax or caulk. The varnish won't stick very well to the sealant, whether wax or caulk.
- In case your hive isn't perfectly level, some folks have omitted the wire screens that keep the bees out of the syrup reservoirs. That way the bees can get in there and clean out any syrup they might otherwise not be able to reach. Of course you have to time your refilling so as to minimize drowning bees.
- It doesn't matter which type feeder you use, always have your hive tool handy for shb execution when you remove the outer and inner covers.  I've even killed some wax moth worms in feeders. 

I've used both these Miller type feeders, and the new plastic inserts that you build a super for. I find the bees tend to fill the access chute in the black plastic ones with lots of burr comb. More of an annoyance than anything else though.
Regards,
Steven


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## beemandan (Dec 5, 2005)

I've used Camcote epoxy 'paint' with success. It is brushed on, is approved for food contact and is durable. I recommend that you use cheap, disposable paint brushes and throw them away when finished.


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