# making your own inner covers



## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

I use 1/4" Luan plywood.


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## guyross (Feb 18, 2011)

I use 1/4 inch luan.


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## jmgi (Jan 15, 2009)

So do you just glue on a rim when using the luan?


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## Riskybizz (Mar 12, 2010)

jmgi

I buy sheets of 3/8" plywood for the panels and buy the cedar replacment rails for $4.25 each. They are pretty easy to glue up and staple. I think I get 13 panels from each sheet of plywood so the coast is about $66.50 for 13 inner covers or $5.11 each. They are very sturdy and you never have to worry about them warping.


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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

For the rim I rip a 5/8" by 3/4" strip and cut a 1/4" groove in the center of the 5/8" side. The plywood is inserted into the groove. This give a 3/16 inch space on each side.


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## windfall (Dec 8, 2010)

1/4-5/16" white cedar, usually 2 boards, sometimes 3, just but them no glue (its common scrap for me). 3/4" cedar or oak rim with dado and glue.

If I have it, good 1/4" fir ply works too. But most now is crap and prone to severe cupping/twisting.


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## jmgi (Jan 15, 2009)

ralittlefield, do you glue the plywood into the groove or just let it float in there for contraction/expansion? Thanks. John


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## Mr. C (Oct 27, 2011)

I made a few out of scrap wood I had laying around and some 1/4 inch birch plywood. I cut a dado in the rim boards and let the plywood freefloat. I cut a 4inch square in the center fo better summer ventilation (with a propped lid it eliminated almost all the fanning even on hot days, think I read about it under PoV by Walt Wright). They've only been in there a year, but no warpage and I used some gallon bucket feeders for a while on them without any problem... I may try 3/8th plywood next year, I've got a few to make again this winter anyway.


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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

I glue and staple the rim to the plywood.


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## jmgi (Jan 15, 2009)

I beginning to think that letting the plywood float in the rim groove instead of glueing it (the way I did it) is the way to go. Maybe my masonite inner covers wouldn't have warped at all, or least not as bad if I wouldn't have glued them in.


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## SWM (Nov 17, 2009)

I don't like masonite inner covers for the reasons already mentioned...they warp out of shape. Brushy Mountain makes the best inner covers I've found. You might want to consider buying one, then use it as a pattern to make your own. They use 3/8 exterior plywood in the center.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

We cut and plane wood to 3/8 inch thickness, then tongue and groove the edges. Just like 70 years ago.

If you can read a Autocad .dwg file, send me a PM.

Crazy Roland


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## ryanbekke (Feb 2, 2012)

Here is a link to my instructional video on youtube on how to make bee hive frames if anyone is interested in that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrK2mG44wpQ


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## OzarkMountainMan (Apr 26, 2008)

Howdy

I use 3/8 plywood. My rims are 7/8 x 1 1/2. Since they are 1 1/2" I just rip them from whatever 2x stock I have. Then glue and staple plywood into dado. I have no warping and no problems with expansion or contraction. Rather than an oblong center hole, I cut the hole to fit a feeder jar.

Good Luck


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## TxFirefighter (Dec 14, 2010)

No inner cover here. I use migratory covers for tops or just a piece of plywood..cheap and easily replaced.


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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

Thanks for the video! It was very interesting.


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## feltze (May 15, 2010)

I use 1/4 luan for the tops, 4x8 sheets are about $10 each and make about 13 tops so $1 each top, running 3/4" x 1 1/4" pine for the rim, 

Lap joint the corner secure with glue and a staple, run a groove down the 3/4 inch edge to fit the luan, drill a 2"hole in the center with a hole saw

Mitered corners just broke apart on me, the lap joint secured with glue and a staple or small screw works fine,


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## NowThen (Nov 26, 2008)

I just finished putting together a batch of these:

http://www.michiganbees.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Inner-Cover_20110316.pdf


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## mmiller (Jun 17, 2010)

NowThen said:


> I just finished putting together a batch of these:
> 
> http://www.michiganbees.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Inner-Cover_20110316.pdf


Great link for beeks want to build thier own stuff. Nicely done plans.

Mike


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## Rob73 (Apr 19, 2009)

I saw some hive top feeders that hold jars, they were made from 7/16" osb. So I made a handful of inner covers with 7/16 osb. I made a pine outer rim. The outer rim has to be a bit thicker, but its basically the same. Not too heavy, but heavy duty. Cut a few jar holes, and the jar lid is almost the same thickness as the osb. So there is no need to thicken it up to hold jars. I used em all last year and my opinion they are good. 

Rob


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## heaflaw (Feb 26, 2007)

Is there a reason for the hole to be in the middle? Why not cut it near a side, front or back? That would help prevent warping from a jar over the hole. Or why not have 2 or more holes-put a jar over one while the other would still allow ventailation.


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## mmiller (Jun 17, 2010)

I've done just that this year. I still cut the typical center hole but also added 2 - 1 1/4" holes to allow feeding while not blocking ventilation. They haven't been place on hives yet but I'm trying them out. 

Mike


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

Is there a reason for the hole to be in the middle?

A bee escape SHOULD fit perfectly in the oval slot. We place a feeder pail over the slot in the fall.

Crazy Roland


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## Rob73 (Apr 19, 2009)

I dont even put a hole in the center, I just put a triangle escape over one of the jar holes. The only inner cover I ever had to warp got wet & was one of the luan kind. I cant remember one warping from the weight of the feeder jars. I would think if you are cutting the holes yourself, you can put em where ever you think is best. Personally, I like to put them as close to the end as possible, then it gives me a little extra room to hide an extra gallon jug of sugar water  .


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## woodguyrob (Jul 29, 2010)

The propped lid on the inner cover is also helpful in winter for adding food to the top bars and viewing the girls without disruption.


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## DonShackelford (Jan 17, 2012)

I just made 30 of these all season inner covers.

https://www.honeyrunapiaries.com/store/images/4season.gif

I haven't drilled any holes in them yet. I plan to use them as inner covers, hive top feeders, and winter insulation.
My concern is that there is 3/8" below the plywood. That seems a little too much for an inner cover. I may cute that down if they do too much comb building between the frame tops and inner cover. It does leave a nice gap for a pollen patty though.


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## Rob73 (Apr 19, 2009)

When you build your inner covers, what type of outer covers do you guys use? I have tried to build a few myself. Its better for me to just purchase some. I do favor those foam beemax telescoping outer covers. I am trying to use more 8 frame wooden ware. I have to use a 10 frame beemax TOC because I guess they dont make one for the 8 frames. They make an eight frame foam feeder, but no outer cover. So, anyway, what your favorite outer covers?

Rob


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

My brother and I are going to be making wooden outer covers with metal caps this year for all our hives. We are not impressed with the plastic covers from Kelley's -- his have cracked through in six or seven years and are leaking into the hive, and mine are warped so tight on the sides I'll have to cut them back to get them on a standard box.

Properly made (and we have access to a sheet metal brake) a metal top outer cover, properly painted, should last as long as you want to keep bees. Put some newspapers folded together in the center of the top board when applying the metal cover to cause it to bulge up a bit, this will eliminate standing water on the top. 

Easy to make, should last forever (and I have tons of suitable wood in the garage from previously owning a sawmill), no reason to pay for them.

We will be making a sheet's worth of plywood inner covers as well. I like Kelley's, but with the materials at hand, there is no reason to buy them.

Peter


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

heaflaw...No..There is no reason to be in the middle. Here is a link to my photobucket. If you notice on photo, "hive top feeder" and "Stovall Singles", my feeders are not in the center. The first ones I made several years ago were in the center, but I changed, and now they are all about half way from the edge to the center. 

http://s841.photobucket.com/albums/zz339/cchoganjr/?action=view&current=100_2110.jpg 

cchoganjr


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## DonShackelford (Jan 17, 2012)

Sorry to hear about the Walter T Kelley outer covers. I used them many years ago. They used to be a lot thicker than the ones they sell now. 
I'm making my own outer covers now. Rather than use metal on the top, I'm using "Henry" brand "white isomeric roof coating" available from Home Depot in 5 gallon buckets. It rolls on with a thick nap roller and makes the top look like it is plastic. I figure it will be a lot easier to repair in years to come since I can just roll on a little more if needed.
Nice hive stands Cleo! Are you a welder?


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

No..I am lots of things, but, a welder is not one of them. Perhaps 20 years or so ago, I bought everything an elderly, Preacher, Beekeeper had, when they had to move him into a Nursing Home. He wanted me to take over everything he had. His entire family was in the oil well business, and they had several welders on the staff. When they were not busy, he would have them use 2 inch, thickwall pipe, and make bee stands. I have about 15 of these stands and they hold 3, 4, or 5, hives each. Wish I had another 20. His welders did a great job, fitting and welding them. He had about 35 of these stands, but I let several local beekeepers have some of them. cchoganjr


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

View attachment 1247
I know this is an old picture because the hive handles are still the dato cut rather than the Hogan hand jig ones I have been using. It does show how I used the full length of the board, put some exterior plywood into the box and when I cut the hive to depth I had an inner cover and a hive body. zero waste.


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## DonShackelford (Jan 17, 2012)

>Rather than use metal on the top, I'm using "Henry" brand "white isomeric roof coating" 

An update; This roof coating isn't working out. It's too thin, even with 3 coats, to stop moisture.


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

Don, the roof coating is used to coat an existing roof...not to create a roof. If you can find someone installing rubber roofing (commercial buildings mostly) that material would make great covers. Old billboard material that has been removed would work, too, but not as well as the rubber roofing. Use the coating on either of these and you'd have a better roof on your hives than you than a lot of folks have on their houses. 

Ed


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## DonShackelford (Jan 17, 2012)

Thanks for the tip Ed! 
I turned down a offer for some free rubber roofing awhile back because it was black. I'll see if that offer is still good.


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## hig (Jan 21, 2013)

OzarkMountainMan said:


> Howdy
> 
> I use 3/8 plywood. My rims are 7/8 x 1 1/2. Since they are 1 1/2" I just rip them from whatever 2x stock I have. Then glue and staple plywood into dado. I have no warping and no problems with expansion or contraction. Rather than an oblong center hole, I cut the hole to fit a feeder jar.
> 
> Good Luck


I'm planning on making about 10 inner covers and I'm not sure how I want to make them. I like the way Brushy Mountain makes them with the 3/8" plywood but I'm wondering since the 3/8" plywood sits flush with the pine there is no ""bee space". I've also seen where you take 1/4" material and cut a groove in the center of a piece of 5/8" pine giving "bee space" of 3/16". How important is the bee space?

Thanks, Steve


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## hig (Jan 21, 2013)

Does anyone have any input on this? Thanks!!


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

It's done all ways. With bee space on top and without bee space on top. Bees don't mind either way. Your preference.

Here's how I make mine: http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/inner-cover-for-langstroth-hive/


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

My inner covers...1/2"plywood body, pine rim. Flat on one side, 3/4" space on other side. 

Cut out and mill rims









Glue









Assemble


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## hig (Jan 21, 2013)

Thank you for the last two post.

Steve


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## hig (Jan 21, 2013)

Michael Palmer said:


> My inner covers...1/2"plywood body, pine rim. Flat on one side, 3/4" space on other side.


Why do you have the 3/4" space on the one side, do you use it for feeding? What are some different scenarios where you would use the cover with the flat side up and then other times with the flat side down?

Do you mill the ventilation/entrance notch on both side or just one?

Thanks again, Steve


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## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

What do you guys think about the plywood thickness I'm seeing 1/4 '' and 3/8'' and 1/2'' I'd rather use the thicker to prevent warping if it doesn't change any clearance inside for for the bees.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

hig said:


> Why do you have the 3/4" space on the one side, do you use it for feeding? What are some different scenarios where you would use the cover with the flat side up and then other times with the flat side down?
> 
> Do you mill the ventilation/entrance notch on both side or just one?
> 
> Thanks again, Steve


The 3/4" side is for feeding pollen sub or fondant, or for wintering. Entrance notch on one side. Flat side down from spring to fall. Recessed side down after the last supers are removed in September, to when the first supers are added in April.


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

After seeing Mikes inner covers I made all of my nuc inner covers the same way. Yesterday I put pollen patties on all my hives and these inner cover makes it too easy. Pull cover, remove the block of 2"insulation, crack inner cover, smoke to get bees down, pollen patties on. Rinse and repeat. 

Now I wait a few weeks before reversing production hives. Fingers crossed.


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