# New to site...1st ?



## Knot Wiring (Jan 15, 2015)

First of many I'm sure.
Thanks to those that provide this resource.

I have visited some over the past weeks. Almost done building my TBH.
The roof I made out of tin. My question ...do I need to seal the "attic" section so no bees can enter?
If so I'll do it, but will have to rebuild the framing.

Thanks
Knot Wiring


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## drlonzo (Apr 15, 2014)

If you have created a roof section for the hive, you won't want the bees to get into it from the hive below as they could move up into it and draw comb, brood, so on. You want your bars to be tight together so that the bees cannot move up. However giving ventilation to the bees through the top can be done using #8 hardware mesh and a hole through a bar if needed. Keep wasps and other undesireables out of the roof structure as well by using the same wire mesh.


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## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

you want the top sealed, as stated screened ventilation is one thing but you do not want bees, wasps, and other critters taking up residence in your attic.


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## Knot Wiring (Jan 15, 2015)

I was afraid ya'll were gonna say that.
My top bars and followers are tight. The gables and ridges of the metal aren't.
got some rework to do

Thanks
KW


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

If the bars are solid (no gaps) and the cover is corrugated tin, those gaps will not matter as the bees don't have access directly from the hive. If you DO have gaps between the bars and you have space in the "attic" they will fill it with comb eventually...


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## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

I am not TBH person, but you should know that there is a special kind of hardware cloth mesh that is bee-proof, unlike the kind you would find at most hardware stores. It is stiff enough so that, unlike screening, you could probably just stretch it across the underside of the roof and staple it down firmly and it won't sag. That way you wouldn't have to disassemble your roof to install it.

In general, you can only buy it a bee supply places. I know Betterbee sells it by the foot and the yard. It's very useful for whenever you want ventilation, but no bees to pass through. I use small patches of it push-pinned on openings occasionally, for instance. It is also useful for making anti-robbing screens which are very useful devices to protect your bees.

The one caveat, however, is that I am not sure it is absolutely small hive beetle -proof, And you don't want any place that the beetles can go to in order to escape the attention of the bees. SHB are more of a problem in warmer climates than mine. I'm in northern NY and I do have a small problem w SHB, but not as bad as you will have in NC. Occasionally I see a SHB that has fallen down through the screen (actually mesh which I think is that same gauge as the bee-proof screening) floor on to my sticky boards. You should check this point. If the SHB that you have can go through the bee-proof mesh, you'd be better off taking the roof apart and using wire wndow screen.

Enj.


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## BeeGora (Oct 22, 2013)

The bees in my top bars can't get into the top of the hive from inside the hive but they can access it from the outside. In the summer when it's hot and they're outside bearding a lot of them will crawl up the side and hang out on top of the bars, on the underside of the roof. It doesn't seem to cause any problems as far as I can see.


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## Knot Wiring (Jan 15, 2015)

BeeGora said:


> The bees in my top bars can't get into the top of the hive from inside the hive but they can access it from the outside. In the summer when it's hot and they're outside bearding a lot of them will crawl up the side and hang out on top of the bars, on the underside of the roof. It doesn't seem to cause any problems as far as I can see.


THATS WHAT I WANTED TO HEAR. With that and what Mr. Bush said I think I'll see if it causes me any issues. I'll post a picture this evening of what I have so far.

On posting pics...I am used to uploading to photobucket and then pasting to sites. Is that ok on this site?

Thanks again.


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

My metal gable roofs are not sealed up and the bees don't seem to pay any attention to them. The topbars are tight in the hive and form a solid roof so the only way they could get to them is from the outside. There is always one or two patrolling the attic, but never any comb building. They don't consider it part of the hive.


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## Knot Wiring (Jan 15, 2015)

Here's some pics. Give it to me straight the good, the bad, the ugly .Its too tall. I'm thinking of a single post type pedistal. Still gotta make a feeder and cut my entarance holes


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## Delta Bay (Dec 4, 2009)

Something that you may consider is to bevel your bars to reduce the surface area on the sides of the bars. It really helps when closing the bars back together. Less surface area makes fewer pinched bees and quick closing of the hive. In my pic it shows the bars are beveled and will be on the inside of the hive. With yours you could bevel from the top of the bars.


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## BeeGora (Oct 22, 2013)

One of the best things about a top bar hive is having an observation window. You'll miss out on a lot by not being able to see inside without disturbing the bees. Everything else looks good.


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## Cub (Feb 14, 2013)

I question the use of 1" lumber for the legs. 

:thumbsup: on the window.


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## Knot Wiring (Jan 15, 2015)

BeeGora said:


> One of the best things about a top bar hive is having an observation window. You'll miss out on a lot by not being able to see inside without disturbing the bees. Everything else looks good.





Cub said:


> I question the use of 1" lumber for the legs.
> 
> :thumbsup: on the window.





Delta Bay said:


> Something that you may consider is to bevel your bars to reduce the surface area on the sides of the bars. It really helps when closing the bars back together. Less surface area makes fewer pinched bees and quick closing of the hive. In my pic it shows the bars are beveled and will be on the inside of the hive. With yours you could bevel from the top of the bars.
> 
> View attachment 15470


Thanks for the comments. I realized these legs were not strong enough and too tall.
I am planning on two 4x4 posts w/concrete and some joist lenthwise. Im thinking I can put some ant catchers on the posts?

Also the window I hope to have installed this weekend. 

Thanks again


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

Knot Wiring said:


> Thanks for the comments. I realized these legs were not strong enough and too tall.
> I am planning on two 4x4 posts w/concrete and some joist lenthwise. Im thinking I can put some ant catchers on the posts?
> 
> Also the window I hope to have installed this weekend.
> ...


The legs on my first hive are decorative spindles. I haven't had an issue with them since I don't have a heavy roof. If your roof is just aluminum/tin, your 1" might be just fine too.


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## Knot Wiring (Jan 15, 2015)

ruthiesbees said:


> The legs on my first hive are decorative spindles. I haven't had an issue with them since I don't have a heavy roof. If your roof is just aluminum/tin, your 1" might be just fine too.
> 
> View attachment 15476


Thanks for your encouragement.
The roof isn't very heavy, but it really is higher than I think it needs to be. And if I cut it down I will loose the width needed for stability. I'm not out any $ I get this wood for free.

Keep the comments comming, I need all the help I can get.

KW


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## shannonswyatt (May 7, 2012)

The only critters in the top of my hives so far has been spiders, but not many of them. I made my first roof peaked, but now they are are flat with an angle to shed water and very light. The peaked roof is cool looking but it was more work making than the rest of the hive. 

I've also ditched attached legs and have gone to seperate stands. I can use them with Langs (although a bit high). and I make those with pressure treated wood. Having the legs unattached allows me to move the hives a lot easier.


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## aricilik (Jan 11, 2015)

There are colonies of bees in the attic of your house? look no more english defects


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## AugustC (Aug 7, 2013)

In my opinion provided all top bars are in place and there are no gaps there is no reason at all why in matters if your "roof" area is "well-ventilated". My lid isn't sealed and yes I have had the odd queen wasp in there but the bees couldn't care less. I even had a mouse raising pups in the lid of one of mine, the bees didn't mind and they were doing no damage to the hive so I left them there until the pups grew up. The top bars are the de-facto top of the hive. The rest is just weather cover. A little air passing though may even be good if you're somewhere hot.


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## Knot Wiring (Jan 15, 2015)

Thanks for the replies. Gonna leave as is. Hope to get some more pics up soon. I have added the window and built a following board feeder.

KW


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## Knot Wiring (Jan 15, 2015)

*Re: New to site...2nd?*

Ok I've got to drill my entrance hole/holes. Give me some advice on what you got. What you might change.
Link some threads on the subject.
Seems that end holes would allow the bees to move one way, while middle holes they could move either way.
Ive already got two followers plus a follower/feeder.

Thanks again
KW


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## shannonswyatt (May 7, 2012)

*Re: New to site...2nd?*

I wouldn't want a hornets nest in the top, or a snake!


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## shannonswyatt (May 7, 2012)

AugustC said:


> In my opinion provided all top bars are in place and there are no gaps there is no reason at all why in matters if your "roof" area is "well-ventilated". My lid isn't sealed and yes I have had the odd queen wasp in there but the bees couldn't care less. I even had a mouse raising pups in the lid of one of mine, the bees didn't mind and they were doing no damage to the hive so I left them there until the pups grew up. The top bars are the de-facto top of the hive. The rest is just weather cover. A little air passing though may even be good if you're somewhere hot.




I wouldn't want a hornets nest in the top, or a snake!


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## ChuckReburn (Dec 17, 2013)

The 1x material for legs works fine. We've been running it like that for several years on a bunch of hives. Entrance should NOT be in the middle, the issue will be in the winter when they move into the stores - they will have to choose 1 side and the remaining stores will be unreachable. We use several 1" holes but a 3/8 x 6" slot would work well too.


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## msscha (Jan 4, 2014)

I just finished my second build (only my second hive!), and I can enthusiastically endorse the observation window -- maybe b/c I'm sensitive to the how much criticism I get locally for keeping TBHs, especially relative to the amount of work they take, and the obs window means peeking inside without having to move comb! My hives are on legs b/c they are stationary. I went with a much simpler roof line this year, since I also found that constructing the lovely sloped and gabled roofs took way more time. I will paint it this weekend...that is one of my favorite activities! The only other design feature is an inside feeder spot set off from the body of the hive by a permanent follower board with a hole. I found last year that in summer, the bees spent a lot of time hanging out in that space, and a lot of breeze move out from the hive that way. I took to calling it the "front porch" .


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## Knot Wiring (Jan 15, 2015)

Thanks for the input, everyone. I think I'll keep the stand and all as it is. If critters move in, I'll build a new roof.
I put the window in this WE just haven't gotten a picture update. Maybe tonight.
Should I start another thread about my hive placement in the yard or add it here?

Thanks again
KW


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## Rairdog (Jun 21, 2014)

Nice job on the TBH. You could always add another 1x to the front of the legs. The wasps will love your roof but just stay on them.


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## J-Rat (Dec 10, 2013)

Your hive looks great. I used 1 x 4 douglas fir for the hive legs and it's just fine.


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