# Homemade Ezyloader and management



## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Here is a place to start. http://www.honeybeeworld.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=374


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

My boom reaches 16', with an articulating arm which has a capacity of 300kg. This is a tremendous amount of weight twisting the arm in many different directions while moving the arm in, out and around. When building your proto type, be aware of this and properly re enforce the arm.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

A homebuilt loader ...










... from this thread: 
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?294083-My-bee-hive-trailer-is-completed!


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

Ian said:


> My boom reaches 16', with an articulating arm which has a capacity of 300kg. This is a tremendous amount of weight twisting the arm in many different directions while moving the arm in, out and around. When building your proto type, be aware of this and properly re enforce the arm.


Do you have some dimensions of the arm pipes , some sketckes .


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

I have looked at that one and I am more with something like an ezyloader , but good info .


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

You do polination and 230 lbs is enought for two hives i guess double brood boxes ? I am willing to make something bigger , at least 400 lbs up to 660 lbs . Enibody have idea how is function the self levelling on the ezyloader they use actuators ? How much can a f550 carry GWR on the biggest one ? can I load 40 hives per row in two row's ( 80 hives ) or 40 pallets with 150 kg a pallet ? .


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

Ian , the first arm is tubeless ( is empty , just the pipe ? ) , pr is reinforced in interior with other stuff ? . do you use stabilizer jacks on your truck ? .


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

its an 8" tube. I have stabilizer jacks for the machine but never use them because they are cumbersome


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

What is the lenght from flatbed to the boom arm ,


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

the arm is 16', as is my flat deck


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

I was asking the height from the deck surface to the boom arms . Thanks .


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

I hve pic on my blog which would probably help you. Might have to search for them a bit


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

I saw that is 2.4 m height . Does enyone now's how the levelling system work's , how are those two hydraulic cylinders are being controled to adjust the boom to keep it on level . How does it now when the boom is not on level and when you push the magic button it's levell by it's self . What dimension does the main pole have 4x4 , 6x6 or what ?


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

the machine I have is on two Mercury switches , one for each cylender


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

The main pole is prababaly 6 by 6, I would guess. 
The leveling system is probably one of the more convenient features, especially if your working in hills


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

Ian , how much you think a pallet of your's weight's ? how do you move a hive from a pallet from other ? . I think i have understand how the levelling work's so when is off level on the two cilinders end the pump's liquid when you push the buton until is on level on both side's. What should be best 12 or 24 v . When is retracted were do you put the cradle ? .


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

In the fall, each one of my hives are weighing 80-90 lbs max.

Pictures speak 1000 word


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

That's on one box not to , yes ? when you stack 3 boxes per hive how many lbs you think they have ? Thank's , now i saw your pictures about the cradle and more on your blog , very cool man , keep it like that , interesting and good info . Cheers .


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Cristian said:


> when you stack 3 boxes per hive how many lbs you think they have ? Thank's ,


Cristian, three boxes will be what they are, who knows. If they are full of honey, and stacked on a double hive pallet, then that might be too much but I will move them like that, if they have been freshly stacked, otherwise it gets heavy


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

I asked because i thinke'd you have worked before on double brood boxes and in rest honey box ( the third one) to now how much will the two brood box and honey one will weighton a pallet , aproximating you now .


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

Cristian - Design the rig for at least 10 times the load of your heaviest pallet. Force (Kg x gravity) x lever arm length (meters) equals "moment". This needs to be stronger than your heaviest possible pallet with the boom fully extended from the mast. A truss boom with a counter weight is not a bad idea - it balances the weight over a stronger mast, but should probably be used on the stronger truck, no the VW. Outrigger jacks are a great idea, especially if any of your bees are set on ground where the road is not level.

Until you are set up, a flatbed wheelbarrow and a long, wide ramp are a good idea. It requires more strength, but it is not much slower than a boom. A forklift beats either one. I plan to use the ramp until I can afford the forklift.

Another low-price rig I like is a 3-wheel hive dolly with power to the back wheel only. The back wheel is electric, and it is tilted up in the air. You push down on the handle, lifting the hive, then press the button to go forward or backwards under power. It makes going up the ramp easy. A powered pallet jack is also a good rig, it does a whole pallet at once, not just one hive at a time like the 3-wheel dolly.


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## wglord (Nov 23, 2009)

Cristian - I have an Ezyloader. the leveling feature is great but it is a pain to manage and in my opinion if you can be careful about placing your bees on level ground you will not need the leveler. I have to get up on my truck bed and manually fix the leveling switches to get the boom to retract most of the time so now I just put my bees on level ground and forget about the leveling feature. if you drop the level feature the boom will be easy to make.


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## Cristian (Jul 28, 2014)

wglord . I am a beekeeper that make the job on hills sometimes , that's the region . How do you fix the switches manually , some pics if you have . 
To find places to put your bees is hard here because of the thief's so I had to place the hives on strange places like a people house back yard .


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## marshmasterpat (Jun 26, 2013)

kilocharlie said:


> Until you are set up, a flatbed wheelbarrow and a long, wide ramp are a good idea. It requires more strength, but it is not much slower than a boom. A forklift beats either one. I plan to use the ramp until I can afford the forklift.
> 
> Another low-price rig I like is a 3-wheel hive dolly with power to the back wheel only. The back wheel is electric, and it is tilted up in the air. You push down on the handle, lifting the hive, then press the button to go forward or backwards under power. It makes going up the ramp easy. A powered pallet jack is also a good rig, it does a whole pallet at once, not just one hive at a time like the 3-wheel dolly.


Kilo - I am about to be at the flatbed wheelbarrow stage shortly so this might not be an issue for me ever. 

But I have to ask just in case I get bigger than that, don't you have problems in grass with the 3 wheel hive dolly or especially a powered pallet jack. With the size wheels of most those I have seen I was thinking they would bottom out in my bee yard about 4 to 6 months out the year. But honestly I have never tried one in grass.


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