# what kind of top for ktbh in hot, hot south Texas



## sorgit (Apr 18, 2015)

Cannot decide on what to put on top of my ktbh to deal with the Texas heat. Do they need air space up there? Inner and outer lid? Material? Got all my cedar for the hives really cheap. Would like to use more cedar for the roof. Flat roof, pitched roof? Any other beeks in hot climates, tell me about your roofs. Thanks much!


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I would be sure to have a space between the top bars and the cover. In other words don't have the plywood cover touching the top bars where heat from the sun can transfer directly to the bars. Anything that props it up by 1/2" or so will do. My roof is just a scrap piece of plywood...


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## typhoontx (May 1, 2013)

I use a gabled roof with a screened vent hole in each gable painted white only been through 1 summer though have not had issues with comb collapse yet, time will tell


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## stan.vick (Dec 19, 2010)

Like MB said, raise it just enough so you have air between the cover and the bars. I use a flat roof painted white and I repaint the roof every year so it reflects the heat, I don't care that much about painting the body of the hive. I use some screen on the bottom middle (covering no more than a third of the bottom) I use a 1 1/8 inch round hole covered with screen on the very upper rear of the hive box. Works well for me, if your temps are hotter than mine you could place additional screened holes on the upper sides.


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## brunothefinn (Jun 16, 2014)

I'm in So.Ca. where it occasionally hits 100 degrees. I use a light colored tin roof with a 2 inch ridge board under to give it an air space. 
Love Bruce


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## sorgit (Apr 18, 2015)

Thanks so much, everybody. I was thinking about a pitched roof (white) with maybe 4 inces max height above the bars. I'm not seeing the pictures clearly when browsing around.

Can the eaves of the roof rest on the very ends of the bars or do I need to add a board on both sides of the hive body to brace the roof? Will the heat transferred to the ends of those bars cause trouble? If i add boards to the sides to support the roof, does the attic have to be sealed or can insects fly in there thru intentional spacing between the roof and the hive? Also, I think I have an old piece of that radiant heat barrier I could use in the roof.

Thanks so much for ALL of your support. Have already learned so much just reading this forum. 

Tamma


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## SWAT253 (May 11, 2015)

> If i add boards to the sides to support the roof, does the attic have to be sealed or can insects fly in there thru intentional spacing between the roof and the hive?


I was wondering the same thing... 

In any case, here's my *pitched-roof cover* (in North Texas) that has a 5/8" gap along the sides. I was thinking "ventilation" and I just transferred the bees from a trap yesterday and haven't had a chance to see if the bees are going to try building comb in the attic! The roof is suspended on the box by spacer blocks and does not contact the bars. I did add screened vents to the main body at top of one end and bottom of other end for cross ventilation. Both have covers that can be closed in the winter. Bottom is screened/uncovered for now - will add plywood cover in late fall. I placed the TBH on the east side of a cypress tree so it's shaded in the afternoon.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Y'all work too hard...

http://www.bushfarms.com/images/KTBH4.JPG


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## BeeSkipper (Mar 22, 2015)

Michael

I'm not to far away from your simple pic....but my board is touching the bars....

I want to secure the lid to the hive....any simple examples...and how do I add some space 

I'm in Houston TX....and the hives are on a flat roof with no shade

BTW- your post are very educational


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## sorgit (Apr 18, 2015)

hahaha... i just haven't connected with any local beeks who do what I want to do and I have to get all my knowledge from the internet.

I have pretty high pitched roofs and I did put blocks under so that the lid doesn't rest directly on the bars. Also to let the roof vent...

Just installed my first 2 packages yesterday! Bees everywhere. Trying to use Essential oils only in my top bar hives. Talked to neighbor who said he never touches his langstroth






hive. Never seen mites. Maybe I won't have to use anything.

Killed more than I thought I would yesterday. Accidentally killed another one spray-painting a chair this morning. 

wish me luck,
Tamma


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## sorgit (Apr 18, 2015)

I thought about them building comb in the attic as well. Let me know if they do. Tamma


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## SWAT253 (May 11, 2015)

My bees were in and out of the attic space for the first day, but almost 1 week later, they're not interested in it anymore.


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## Jon Wolff (Apr 28, 2013)

Sorqit, I agree with Michael. Keep it simple. I've spent a lot of time in the past making some great roofs with attics and separate compartments, but now my roofs are metal shed doors painted white and bent to create an overhang (I raided them from some old sheds in the back of my property). I raise the fronts about six inches to vent under it and allow light in, otherwise ****roaches find it way too cozy and they soil the bars. We have high humidity in the summer here, with temps in the upper 90's, and occasional heatwaves up to 110-115. Recently temps climbed suddenly to the mid 90's, and two hives that don't have much afternoon shade were bearding. I read that more insulation during the summer can help them keep the hive cooler, so I took some left over fiberglass insulation, sealed it inside plastic bags, and laid it over the top bars. I also placed ventilation bars at the very rear of the hives, separated from the colonies by the follower boards, which should allow the bees more control over how much outside air they allow in (I drill a hole in my followers so the bees can patrol behind them and keep ****roaches from colonizing the back of the hives). There was a definite reduction of bearding afterward.


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## sorgit (Apr 18, 2015)

Thanks, Swat!


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## sorgit (Apr 18, 2015)

Jon Wolff said:


> I also placed ventilation bars at the very rear of the hives, separated from the colonies by the follower boards, which should allow the bees more control over how much outside air they allow in (I drill a hole in my followers so the bees can patrol behind them and keep ****roaches from colonizing the back of the hives). There was a definite reduction of bearding afterward.


Your temps are similar to mine in the summer. I drilled two small holes on the bottom of each end and covered it with screen for ventilation. Was told the bees would just cover them up if they don't want them. Have packages with 10 brood bars and 4 honey bars but noticed the bees can squeeze under the follower board into the closed off section. Was thinking I needed to make a new follower board that is a tighter fit. Are you saying it's good for the bees to go over there?


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## Jon Wolff (Apr 28, 2013)

Unless you are using the hive to house two colonies, like when making a split, there's no reason to keep the bees from the other side of the follower. They won't build comb behind it (at least mine never have). I can place a cork in the hole if I want to close it off, but I want the bees patrolling the entire hive. I don't know if the American ****roach is a problem where you live, but they will make themselves at home in, and on top of, my hives if allowed. The bees will propolize the screens on my ventilation bars when I place them inside the follower, but leave them alone when outside it.


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