# Bear proofing a wooden platform



## Z rex (Dec 2, 2017)

I have my hive 6 ft off the ground on a platform (wooden), and that has been safe enough for it for 3 years. Now that I have had my first loss at the paws of a bear, I don't ever want another one. I've salvaged what was left and think I can nurse them through the winter, but I need to get this platform bear proofed-and fast! 
An electric fence is not an option, because of the location of the hive, my property layout, and some other aspects. 
I would be ok with some kind of electric perimeter on the platform itself, but not knowing how to do that and not having a lot of money to throw towards this right now makes me wonder what other effective options are.


----------



## trottet1 (Jul 18, 2013)

> I would be ok with some kind of electric perimeter on the platform itself,


I think this would be your best option. You could bolt posts every 6-8 feet. That would hold the strands (with insulators). Then you would just need to run a ground wire from the controller (mounted on 1 of the posts) down to the ground rods(3 of them 10 ft apart). You would have to secure your posts pretty good as you need to use tensioners on your strands to make them nice and tight. 

The hardest part of inatalling an electric fence is digging for posts or driving t-posts in the ground. The raised platform removes that difficult task.

I understand budget may be an issue, but consider the time, money, and emotion that went into these hives and platform.


----------



## ericweller (Jan 10, 2013)

I was hit twice this year by a bear. After the first attack, I strapped my hives to the bench they are sitting on. I used 3 ratchet straps, one to strap the hive boxes together and the other two straps that went around the front and sides of the hives and under the bench. A couple weeks later, a bear attacked the hives again but could not budge them loose from the bench. The boxes were askew an inch or so but they remained upright and intact. The bear must have really been trying because the posts the bench sits on were loose in the ground. IMHO, this is a much more effective method than using an electric fence. I have 5 outyards and putting up a fence in each one would be pretty expensive.
The only downside is that it is a pain to unstrap the hives for inspections. I'm sure the straps wouldn't stop a brown bear but it is very effective against the black ones.


----------



## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

I understand a 30-.06 is a pretty effective bear deterrent. 

The electric fence is probably the ony real option. We have them in VA to keep deer out of the garden. Bears aren't an issue which is a real shame. Bear tastes pretty good.


----------



## trottet1 (Jul 18, 2013)

Maybe next time the bear will just try harder. The electric fence is the only method that I can think of that will actually "teach" the bear to eat elsewhere. The ratchet straps just make it difficult. Don't under estimate the strength and tenacity of a bear... even the puny little black bears. Perhaps the 1 that got you was just a juvenile and will grow and move those hives more than an inch or so next time.


----------



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Welcome to Beesource, _Z rex_!

There are a number of alternative of 'bear deterrents', but few of them are going to be as affordable as a well done electric fence ...



















Those photos are from this thread: http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?270133-Mark-s-(sqkcrk)-Blueberry-Pollination-in-Maine

_Z rex_, if you have 110 volt AC available where your hives are, effective 1 joule fence chargers can be had for less than $100, and 3 or 4 joule chargers for about $150.


And while I don't see any ratchet straps in this photo, it doesn't seem like this bear would be bothered by a couple of straps ...


----------



## Z rex (Dec 2, 2017)

"I think this would be your best option. You could bolt posts every 6-8 feet. That would hold the strands (with insulators). Then you would just need to run a ground wire from the controller (mounted on 1 of the posts) down to the ground rods(3 of them 10 ft apart). You would have to secure your posts pretty good as you need to use tensioners on your strands to make them nice and tight."

Let's say that I have no background knowledge of doing such a project. Would you be able to send me some more detailed directions or a link to some help? The platform is about 8 ft long and 4 ft side at the widest part. 

Is it possible to have it powered by a rechargeable battery rather than running wires?


----------



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Solar powered fence chargers are readily available, but they tend to add _at least_ $100 to the equivalent AC powered unit. 

You may find this bear fence article useful ... http://www.kencove.com/fence/76_Bear+Fence_resource.php


----------



## trottet1 (Jul 18, 2013)

Glad to. I will write up something for you by tomorrow and pm it to you. 

For starters you need:
Controller (i recomend at least 2 joules)
Posts
Insulators
Spool of electric fence wire
3 ground rods 
Ground wire (not sure of the gauge but will find out).

Ill pm you either later tonight or tomorrow during the day. In the mean time, research "how to install electric fence" maybe downlpad pdf instructions from Zeabra. That's one company that makes controllers. I'll message you as soon as I can with as much detail as I can.


----------



## Z rex (Dec 2, 2017)

Much appreciated. I'm relatively new to beekeeping and am more of a hobbyist than anything else, so I am appreciative of all the advice I'm able to get. For the time being, what's left of my colony is in hive boxes and frames in my shed, and I'm not sure how long I can keep them in there before it becomes detrimental to them.


----------



## hex0rz (Jan 14, 2014)

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...NCm8QFghRMAk&usg=AOvVaw2Vt_ymHfGQ6elxqX3oMs7g

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...NCm8QFghDMAU&usg=AOvVaw0Ckwr2ZhjuTGkg-m6dn3rE


----------



## trottet1 (Jul 18, 2013)

hex0rz said:


> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...NCm8QFghRMAk&usg=AOvVaw2Vt_ymHfGQ6elxqX3oMs7g
> 
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...NCm8QFghDMAU&usg=AOvVaw0Ckwr2ZhjuTGkg-m6dn3rE


Z rex,

This is fantastic info right here and I can't even come close to explaining it that well via pm. Look at both pdfs in detail (don't just skim it). Any questions you have, pm me. I will pm you later when I have a little down time at work just to check in with you and see how you're making out with the info. Try not to be intimidated by the procedure. Remember, your application is going to be a lot easier as it is smaller and on a platform. 

Hex

Thank you for finding and posting that. It will make it a lot easier for the OP and myself.


----------



## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I've used ratchet straps and pallets with moderate success. For a bear trying to knock the hives over, that method works pretty well. Sometimes the bear will chew and scratch at the boxes and once enough damage is done, the stack is compromised. What usually happens is the bear chews the strap. IF they figure out that a strap can be bitten in half, they do it all the time. Ultimately, an electric fence is a much more efficient approach.


----------



## Hoot Owl Lane Bees (Feb 24, 2012)

Z rex
Contact the Pa. Conservation office. They may have a program in place to help with a bear fence.

I built mine at my home yard out of T post, with PVC pipe sleeves and steel pipe between each post.
I then hung chain link fence from the steel pipe with the bottom of the fence about 1' off the ground.
I ran a single strand of wire fence about 6" off the ground to help with *****.
As we tend to get very dry here when the bear are the most active I will be laying more chain link fence on the ground around the outside of the yard.
This will be connected directly to the ground on the fencer. 
I have a fence tester and the last check at the end furthest from the fencer read 4000v.
I have only touched this fence once when I was relocating hives in the yard and I backed into it, I never plan on that again. 

If the hive is still close to the place it was when the bear got in it, it won't be safe in side a storage shed. 
I have seen a black bear go through a steel building and tare a locked chest freezer open to get to a neighbor's cat food.
He ended up in the DEEP FREEZER next to it about a week later, that time he was in pieces!:shhhh:


----------



## hex0rz (Jan 14, 2014)

trottet1 said:


> Hex
> 
> Thank you for finding and posting that. It will make it a lot easier for the OP and myself.


:thumbsup:


----------



## Z rex (Dec 2, 2017)

I think I've figured it out. I found plans for an electric "unwelcome mat" and I know I can modify such a thing to surround the platform almost like a skirt to be my electric perimeter. My only question is now about the grounding rod. Does it make a difference for my grounding rod if my "fence" or platform is above the ground? How deep does a grounding rod need to go? Should it be fully underground? The ground is usually very wet, if that makes any difference. Maybe this is not smart to ask, but if someone touches the grounding rod or the ground wire, will they receive a shock?


----------



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

The ground rod should be fully in the ground (earth). With a fence at ground level, the varmint stands on the dirt and touches the charged fence, completing the circuit and gets zapped. If your charged wires are going to raised high enough that a bear might not be touching the ground when he touches the charged wire, then you can also add some "grounded" wire parallel to the charged wire. Some beekeepers will alternate ground and charged wires in their fence to be sure that there is always a good ground present even in dry conditions.

For example ...







photo credit

And no, touching a ground rod or a grounded wire won't shock anyone unless they are touching a charged wire at the same time.


----------



## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

You don't need a big hammer to install a ground rod. You can do it 2 inches at a time.

Make a small hole maybe 6 inches deep by lifting the ground rod and then jamming it down. Put water in the hole. It and wet soil "grease" the side of the hole and soften the soil at bottom of the hole. Come back to the ground rod after 30 mins or so and lift it a few times and use your arms to thrust it down the hole. Add water and do something else for 30mins or so. Come back and lift and thrust rod down the hole maybe five times. May have to leave over nite but benefit from the extra soak time at bottom of the hole.

Keep repeating the pattern and you never have to use the big hammer. An electrician told me this method and I was skeptical. I was pleasantly surprised with ease to install a 10ft ground rod.


----------



## Z rex (Dec 2, 2017)

Both of those responses are amazingly helpful! How deep into the ground should it go? 8 ft? 4 ft?


----------



## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

The tip of the ground rod should be in moist soil year round and below the frost. The moist soil is a good conductor.


----------

