# Huber style leaf hive



## RichM (Dec 22, 2015)

I would like to build a leaf hive. Does anyone have experience using one? It seems that Huber changed some of the design over time. The illustrations in the book are also not to scale as regards the thickness of the frames. Perhaps a slightly larger size would be better. Any input would be appreciated.


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

Paul Tabor aka "bob the beekeeper" on Facebook has one. Not sure if he is on Beesource or not. See if you can get to his page by this link to his book hive. https://www.facebook.com/113144795412257/photos/a.530396103687122.1073741825.113144795412257/1077704835622910/?type=3&theater


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## max2 (Dec 24, 2009)

Have a look here: http://www.bushfarms.com/huber.htm

There is also a book out on AMAZON

I have an interest in Huber as my grandmother ( born in Switzerland around 1860) was Huber and my aunt also married a Huber. they all seem to be related from one part of Switzerland

I would love to be able to trace the lineage but this is near impossible now ( I was born in Switzerland but live in Australia)


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## RichM (Dec 22, 2015)

ruthiesbees: The link for Paul Tabor did not work for me, and I was unable to search because I do not have a facebook account. A google search did not get me very far, either. Your facebook link did work for me and I enjoyed your posts, especially the double walled observation hive.
max2: I have Michael Bush's transcription of Huber's book. Some of the cover photos show bees in the historically accurate reproduction leaf hive. I suppose I should email him, but I know he is a very busy man.


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

RichM said:


> ruthiesbees: The link for Paul Tabor did not work for me, and I was unable to search because I do not have a facebook account. A google search did not get me very far, either. Your facebook link did work for me and I enjoyed your posts, especially the double walled observation hive.
> max2: I have Michael Bush's transcription of Huber's book. Some of the cover photos show bees in the historically accurate reproduction leaf hive. I suppose I should email him, but I know he is a very busy man.


I have emailed Paul this thread to see if he will join in the conversation. Here is one of his photos.


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## RichM (Dec 22, 2015)

Thank you, Ruth. This is the kind of information I am looking for. It looks like there is support for the combs with wire or monofilament line in a zig-zag pattern going across. The notches at the top lead me to believe that a standard frame could be used to start the colony. I was also thinking of a larger size that is taller than wide, but this size could be quite heavy when filled. It also looks like some insulating foam board visible behind one leaf.


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

RichM said:


> Thank you, Ruth. This is the kind of information I am looking for. It looks like there is support for the combs with wire or monofilament line in a zig-zag pattern going across. The notches at the top lead me to believe that a standard frame could be used to start the colony. I was also thinking of a larger size that is taller than wide, but this size could be quite heavy when filled. It also looks like some insulating foam board visible behind one leaf.


Paul is not wanting to sign up for Beesource, but he did give permission for me to send you his email in a private message so you can communicate with him directly. Please check your inbox for beesource.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I have a museum quality reproduction made by Don Semple as a gift for me. It is off of the plans in Huber's book. He did make some adjustments over time, like leaving out or making skinnier the bottom bar and leaving off the hinges in later versions. Pictures of the one I have are in the book and on the back cover of the book:
https://www.amazon.com/Hubers-Obser...mr0&keywords=huber's+new+observations+on+bees

You can see the back cover in the "look inside" if you want to see it in color.

The plans in the book actually mention two different frame dimensions. One was 12" square and one was 10" by 12". The frames are 1 1/4" wide. Letters from Huber discussing changes in the design are also in the back of the Bicentennial edition of the book.


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## RichM (Dec 22, 2015)

Thank you Michael. I have your book and noted the modifications Huber made over time. Huber's drawings seem not always to scale, such as the single frame shown. The text says the side and cross pieces should be 1 inch thick but they look thinner in the drawing. The drawing of the end cap also has a bottom piece, which is inconsistent with the view that shows all together. The total comb surface area for the 12 leaves would be the equivalent of about 9 deep Langstroth frames. I am not sure I would leave out the hinges, as it might not be stable enough to easily handle. I would also make the frames 1 3/8" wide. I want to make a working model, probably taller than wide, but realize weight could become an issue. I also think it might be better to have the entrances on the hinge side so that bees could come and go with less disturbance while the hive is opened.

The photos in your book show some brood combs pegged into the hive. Did you let them get established? If so, how did it work out?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I wanted to preserve the hive before putting bees into it seriously, so that was just a cutout that Don put in it temporarily to get pictures for the book. I did get it wax dipped finally this last spring, but have not had time to get bees in it yet. Huber did a lot of experimenting to come up with 1 1/4". In my experience that is the normal spacing in a brood nest of natural comb.


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## RichM (Dec 22, 2015)

I was just going by the width of a standard frame and the width of my top bar hive bars. I have noticed that my eight frame equipment has nearly an inch extra inside and was considering shaving down the frames so that nine would fit. Would that be better for the brood box?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I like 9 in an 8 frame box or 11 in a ten frame box. I tried 9 in a 10 frame box and was not impressed. The comb has too many places where the honey protrudes and the brood does not making it hard to get frames out.


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## RichM (Dec 22, 2015)

Thanks for your advice. I am going to shave down some of my frames to fit 9 in an 8 frame box.

Eva Crane, in her Archaeology of Beekeeping book, shows a working replica Huber leaf hive. There are not many comments, only that the frame spacing is correct, it is difficult to close without squashing bees, and it is not practical for general beekeeping.

I hope to design and build a version that would hold 2 medium frames per leaf and is 9 leaves wide, with window ends that can be covered with insulation. It would be like two 8 frame medium brood boxes stacked up, but could be opened like a book.


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