# Wooden Hive Top Feeder



## KPeacock (Jan 29, 2013)

I made a few of them last season and used a heat gun to keep the wood warm as i sloshed the melted was around. It worked, but by the end of the seaason, the wax was bubbling up in some places. I have, more or less, abandoned them in favor of open feeding. for the colonies i feel the need to feed directly, i have gone to using mason jars. I'd really like to pull the trigger and make up a bunch of the jar lids with the small diameter brass tubing, but i jsut have my doubts about it dripping, and i havent heard any first hand tales of success/woe. I don't like to base my decisions on second ahnd information.


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## CajunBee (May 15, 2013)

Silicone calk.


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## pannu96 (Mar 7, 2012)

I put tin trays in them.


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## tommysnare (Jan 30, 2013)

My favorite tool for melting wax to apply to a surface is a heat gun. Works great for just about everything to apply it to. I just waxed 4 wood top feeders I got from someone. Worked great. In the deep freezer now to kill pests.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

Gutter caulk would work to. I personally am not a fan of silicone caulk. Seen to many rolled up edges. As a painting contractor. 
David


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

be sure and use dry wood when you build them, that is where you have to start.


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## rweakley (Jul 2, 2004)

I've build these for my DCoates 5 frame nucs and I seal the joints with silicon calk, then I hit the bottom and sides with melted beeswax. I won't worry too much about if it's soaked into the wood or not. I just want a barrier that the syrup can't easily go thru and as long as I don't scrape the bottom too hard the wax stays in place. No leaks to speak of since I went to this method. I wouldn't mind figuring out how to put a tray in mine to avoid the issue all together, but don't know if I'm that talented. LOL


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## tommysnare (Jan 30, 2013)

rweakley said:


> I've build these for my DCoates 5 frame nucs and I seal the joints with silicon calk, then I hit the bottom and sides with melted beeswax. I won't worry too much about if it's soaked into the wood or not. I just want a barrier that the syrup can't easily go thru and as long as I don't scrape the bottom too hard the wax stays in place. No leaks to speak of since I went to this method. I wouldn't mind figuring out how to put a tray in mine to avoid the issue all together, but don't know if I'm that talented. LOL


i have made a few 5 frame nuc top feeders using the fatbeemans design. they work great but, they dont hold much volume. 
ive also thought about using spray in bed liner to seal them up as well. but the chems worry me.


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## tsk (Nov 26, 2010)

CajunBee said:


> Silicone calk.


That's what I used. One thing I'd mention is to be sure to let your spar varnish cure for a week or so. I put on the silicone caulk too soon and it never cured. Was a bear to scrub out and replace.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

I used paraffin and a 200°F oven to warm the feeders until the chunks of paraffin were melted inside of them. By gently turning and twisting, inside edges were also sealed. 

Final touch ups were done with paraffin melted in a rice cooker and a brush. 

If you're accident prone or easily distracted I would use a different technique...


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## Nu-Bee (Apr 21, 2012)

BeeCurious said:


> I used paraffin and a 200°F oven to warm the feeders until the chunks of paraffin were melted inside of them. By gently turning and twisting, inside edges were also sealed.
> 
> Final touch ups were done with paraffin melted in a rice cooker and a brush.
> 
> If you're accident prone or easily distracted I would use a different technique...


I had considered using this method. I'm glad that someone else has tried it and reported that works.


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## ericweller (Jan 10, 2013)

I use a polyester resin to totally seal the feeder. Water tanks are made out of polyester resins so it is totally safe for the bees once it has hardened.
It is virtually indestructible under normal conditions and will keep the feeder sealed year after year.


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## Nu-Bee (Apr 21, 2012)

ericweller said:


> I use a polyester resin to totally seal the feeder. Water tanks are made out of polyester resins so it is totally safe for the bees once it has hardened.
> It is virtually indestructible under normal conditions and will keep the feeder sealed year after year.


Eric

Where do you get the resin. I have seen some like at a couple bee conventions and I do like them.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

The polyester resin will give off strong odors for a very long time. I'm not sure the bees will appreciate the fiberglass smell. 

Silicone on all of the joints would be my second choice after paraffin. 

The resin can be purchased at Home Depot.


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## ericweller (Jan 10, 2013)

It is sold in auto part stores under the name of "fiberglass resin". I've seen it in WallyMart and Home Despot, too.
I cut fiberglass cloth in 2 inch strips to cover all of the seams on the feeder. I mix a batch big enough to do several feeders. Use a disposable brush to wet the wood with resin, especially at the seams. Then, I put the fiberglass strips over each seam and use the brush to push the strips into the resin. Cover the strips with more resin so they are covered completely. After the resin hardens, I fill the feeder with water and see if I miss any seams. If I find one, I mix another small batch of resin and touch up where the water is leaking from.
Some critical things that are necessary to consider. Temperature should be 65 degrees or warmer. The warmer it is, the faster the resin hardens. Quantities of resin must be measured. Don't eyeball. Use a digital scale and measure quantities exactly.
Also, I always mix a test batch of one ounce to see how much hardener needs to be mixed and how long it takes to harden. Then, I scale up quantities after that is known.
Resins are a breeze to work with once you get the mix right.


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## ericweller (Jan 10, 2013)

BeeCurious said:


> The polyester resin will give off strong odors for a very long time. I'm not sure the bees will appreciate the fiberglass smell.
> 
> Silicone on all of the joints would be my second choice after paraffin.
> 
> The resin can be purchased at Home Depot.


I have not experienced that. If the resin is mixed properly, it will harden completely and have no smell, whatsoever.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

ericweller said:


> I have not experienced that. If the resin is mixed properly, it will harden completely and have no smell, whatsoever.


I have had years of experience with both polyester and epoxy resins in boat repairs... I'll stand by my original statement.


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## canoemaker (Feb 19, 2011)

I use silicon caulk on the joints and any knots. I never have any trouble with syrup leaking through the bottom or sides.


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## Nu-Bee (Apr 21, 2012)

canoemaker said:


> I use silicon caulk on the joints and any knots. I never have any trouble with syrup leaking through the bottom or sides.


Have you noticed any ill effects on the exposed wood by the sugar syrup, like mold, mildew, or rot. I'm not sure how long unprotected wood will last.


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## canoemaker (Feb 19, 2011)

Nu-Bee said:


> Have you noticed any ill effects on the exposed wood by the sugar syrup, like mold, mildew, or rot. I'm not sure how long unprotected wood will last.


When the bees are feeding heavily, they empty the feeders quickly and there is no residue. However, when they stop feeding (such as when it is too cold and I have left the feeders on) I get some mold/mildew. It's easy enough to clean off with warm water and a scrub brush. I never had any issues with rotting. On the outside of the feeder I get some weathering of the wood over time, but that's normal for any woodenware. Time for a new coat of paint.


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## marshmasterpat (Jun 26, 2013)

Spar varish. Coat the whole thing one good layer (2 or 3 thin layers) then sprayed the seams heavily and tilled the box making it run around the seams. Stuff lasts forever (several years) on outdoor stuff and has not become a problem after a few months.


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## jredburn (Feb 25, 2012)

Heat mineral oil and bees wax or parafin in a double boiler until all the wax melts, Pour it in a bottle and let it cool. Coat the wood with it and it will be waterproof. Coat the feeder with it and it will seal the joints.


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## Nu-Bee (Apr 21, 2012)

If anyone is still following this post I chose to use the fiberglass resin. It was easy to use and dried hard and sealed well, with no leaks. The smell of the resin during the application can be a bit overwhelming if you don't have proper ventilation. Once cured properly ther was not any noticible odor. I feel it was a good choice.


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## Santa Caras (Aug 14, 2013)

All this sounds like a lot of work. Look up fatbeeman feeder with a no leak milk jug. It uses a mesh ladder and a chute for bee access and can easily hold a gal or more. This design is very adaptable in size. Nuc, 10frme,8,whatever. No need for resins and polyesters and all that. Just use a plastic jug. I use a gal ice cream container. Seem to have a lot of those around my house.


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