# Walter Kelley extractor question



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

I don't have a direct answer to your question, but some comments.

A speed controller isn't going to get the existing motor to spin your extractor any _faster _than it currently does. Instead, you will need to change the pulley ratios, or use a motor with a higher RPM, or eliminate any (possible) slippage in the current belt system.

You may be interested in this article about reworking the drive system on a Dadant extractor:

http://www.abuzzaboutbees.com/IHPA/TheBuzz/February05/Page6.htm
That page notes that the design was adapted from a modification that Allen Dick did to a Kelley extractor.


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

the old motor on your extractor is either split phase [likely] or capacitor start, these motor types will not work with any variable speed device. the motor is almost certainly a nominal 1750 rpm light or medium duty type. try a larger diameter pulley on the motor. you may need to go to a larger ordinary motor. if you want variable speed you will need a matched motor and control set. the next speed up is nominal 3600 rpm, these are lower torque and not a good choice for this application.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

If money was not a worry, get a similar H.P. quality inverter rated 3 phase motor and run a quality inverter that lets you run up to 90hz. Is it worth it? Probably not. 

Crazy Roland


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## happybees (Oct 30, 2007)

I thought about changing the motor last year, then quit after I saw on eBay similar in appearance motors with 10,000 r.p.m. It needs to start slow as it does right now for the friction thing to catch up with speed increase; a speed control can accomplish this. 
I would like to get suggestions about the type of motor and speed control will work on this model. 

The belt is set on the smallest step of the motor pulley about 1.5” in diameter for max speed of the extractor. The other pulley that sits on the drive shaft is 16” in diameter. It will have to be replaced with a smaller one, but variable speed is a nice feature. 
I have a Dadant 20 frames that got a 0.13 hp motor with only 500 r. p. m. It does a good job, except it is difficult to stop, does not have any kind of brakes. Thank you.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

happybees said:


> The [HIGHLIGHT] belt is set on the smallest step[/HIGHLIGHT] of the motor pulley about 1.5” in diameter for max speed of the extractor. The other pulley that sits on the drive shaft is 16” in diameter. It will have to be replaced with a smaller one, but variable speed is a nice feature.


If you want the extractor to turn at a higher RPM, you need to move the belt on the motor shaft to a _LARGER _diameter step on the motor pulley.


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## happybees (Oct 30, 2007)

Rader Sidetrack you are right. Thanks.


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## Summerland Bee (Aug 16, 2014)

I have a similar unit. Built in 1925. 33 frames. Friction drive with hand brake. So if you put the friction drive all the way in towards the center it should spin faster. And what size shaft is your elec motor 1/2 or 5/8 in. This will help you find out what the HP is. And you can buy a 4 step pulley x2. Then it would work much like a drill press that gives you 4 speeds. Regards Joe


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

If it is the kind with the flat platter and a tire that moves, check if the tire is worn too small. Maybe you can measure yours and compare it to some one else on this site. I ran one like that as a youth, and it worked well, but the modern advancing speed controls are nice.

Crazy Roland


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

Roland said:


> If it is the kind with the flat platter and a tire that moves, check if the tire is worn too small. Maybe you can measure yours and compare it to some one else on this site. I ran one like that as a youth, and it worked well, but the modern advancing speed controls are nice.
> 
> Crazy Roland


We used to have to clean those "platters" off occasionally and make sure their was plenty of pressure on the upper wheel which was (I think) some sort of laminated leather. It wasn't inusual for them to begin slipping and the machine speed would slow down. If that upper wheel is getting "dog eared" it was usually time for a replacement. 
PS If your extractor is an old galvanized machine you might want to consider replacing it with a newer stainless steel model. Lead content in honey is being scrutinized more closely than ever before.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

Yup, keep the platter clean. There should be an adjustment on the horizontal shaft, maybe on the end opposite the motor? Don't add too much force, or your leather tire will dog ear, and the parental unit will yell at you.

crazy Roland


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## happybees (Oct 30, 2007)

I don’t know how old it is. It is in good shape, stainless steel, no rust at all inside, just some spots of beewax. The friction shaft size is 1-1/8” in diameter, the motor pulley is 4 steps with 1/2" shaft. I will make some adjustments to make it run faster per your suggestions, if the efficiency won’t be increased, anyway, I am looking to upgrade to an extracting line by next summer. Thank you for all your help.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

Forgive me, but I did not see the set pulley in the images? 

From faint memory, your drive tire looks way worn out. I would polish your platter and find a new tire.

If I was a betting man, your reels are not stainless, but rather painted cast iron. As for production, a competent operator on your extractor, when properly repaired, should be comparable to a modern radial. The key will be finding a competent operator, a new tire, and an inspector that does not open it up.

Crazy Roland


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

It is difficult to tell but it appears to me there may still be some inward travel on the "platter" that isn't being utilized that would speed it up a bit more. Is there some rust buildup preventing full movement? This is a similar concept to what I ran for years but different in that the tire is a much smaller diameter, meaning fewer rpm's. Roland may well be correct that the wear on the "tire" may be a big part of the problem here. Afraid he is correct on the painted cast iron as well although it dosen't appear to show much wear.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

You may be able to "guestimate" if the tire is worn by checking if the horizontal shaft "Droops". I believe with the tire new, the horizontal shaft should be horizontal, running parallel to the top of the extractor.

Take a magnet to the reel. 

Crazy Roland


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