# Beekeeping on the Oregon Coast question



## Stephanie21 (Aug 27, 2013)

Hello,
I am considering getting a bee hive and have a few basic questions. 
We live on the Oregon coast, about a mile from the actual ocean, zone 8b. This would be for our own honey use, family and friends. I can place it in two areas, at our home in a rural area with homes on acre lots or in an open field of 3 acres of grass that is mowed. We do not have any agriculture in our area, so no orchards, clover etc. to feed them.... is that a problem? I think I would enjoy having them actually at our house so we can see them.
Is this climate too damp for them to be healthy? 
Is this going to require constant attention? I think I would be classified as a "hobby" beekeeper  From my reading it sounds a little complicated.... feeding them, diseases, etc. etc.
Thank you for any advice..... I don't want to get into something that I will regret and I want "happy" bees.
Stephanie


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## scallawa (Jul 6, 2013)

If you do decide to get bees you would want bees that are adapted to your area. I don't know if you have any local queen breeders but there is one from the Olympic Peninsula in Washington. I think the weather might be similar there. 

You should do research on any breeder before going with them.
http://www.owa.cc/

Bees seem to be very resourceful in finding plants. Particularly in areas where people have gardens of varying flowers. I have very little experience though, so hopefully someone with greater insight will respond.


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## orthoman (Feb 23, 2013)

I am a new beek and live in northern calif. about 1/2 mile from the ocean. Although our area is a little more rural than what you describe, I think it is overall similar. Fog, cool, sunny afternoons, rainy wet winters that can drag on forever -- typical northern coastal stuff.

Bee's in this area are very dependent upon the wild black berries in the late spring and summer and will fly several miles to obtain nectar and pollen. I suspect your area has similar botanical varieties as my area. They also find other sources. Big broad manicured lawns aren't much good for bees. 

As far as attention -- not too bad. It is a hobby and I enjoy going into the hives and looking at the frames of bees to see what is going on. For 2 hives, I might spend an hour every couple of weeks. I think that if you can't or won't take the time to check on them -- like any other livestock or pet, then you probably shouldn't do it -- just costs you money and the bees end up dying or leaving. 

Before getting the bees/hives/etc. I would suggest you take a class on beekeeping and/or connect with a local bee keeping club. Ask someone to mentor you or at the least, pick their brains for all the information you can get. This time of year it is too late to get a new hive going. You might be able to find an established hive to buy that will over-winter. Otherwise, educate yourself as much as possible and if you still want to do it, order a couple of packages - yes, two so you can have two hives going- of bees for next spring. The locally bred and adapted queen as suggested above might be a good idea.

As far as complicated -- at first, a little overwhelming. I would say a class and reading all you can will help demystify beekeeping; however, having said that, I find it fun and interesting as well as frustrating. There are so many opinions and anectdotal theories on how to do something. I kind of believe if there is a good way of doing something, then everybody would be doing it that way - but that isn't the case in beekeeping. To me, there doesn't seem to be a lot of hard science behind what we do with the bees, why we do it, best method to do it etc. and yet there are entire university departments dedicated to bees and beekeeping. You will find that if you ask a simple question of two beekeepers, you will get about five different answers. So, be prepared. 

Although I took a 3 month class at the local college and attend bee meetings, I have learned a lot by just doing-- and not everything I learned went the way I wanted it too. I made mistakes and hopefully won't make them again--- I'll just make new ones.

Bottom line, I would say do it. The first year you won't get much honey but after that you should start getting a crop.


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## Stephanie21 (Aug 27, 2013)

Thanks for your replies.
We live in a small community, I have never heard of a class and don't know anyone who keeps bees. What's the best book?? A friend did mention that they had them years ago and got some mites/virus and died! She offered her equipment but not sure I should get it; suppose I could disinfect it??
I would love checking on them and just seeing them around. Would it be o.k. to leave them for a few weeks in the summer? We travel some and not sure the guy who checks on our house would be interested in looking after them.
Thanks again for you help, sounds like a nice "sweet" group. Stephanie


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## beedeetee (Nov 27, 2004)

I don't know about around Astoria, but Portland has classes every year that you could sign up for. The Oregon Beekeeping convention is in Seaside this year at the end of October.

Orthoman is right in that if you have blackberries anywhere around, that will be when they make excess honey. Otherwise, cascara, salal, Oregon grape, dewberry, salmon berry, thimble berry, etc. will keep them busy. My father-in-law used to inspect bees for the state on the central Oregon coast and there was no lack of beekeepers back then, so I'm pretty sure they will do fine for you too.


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## Stephanie21 (Aug 27, 2013)

Blackberries..... they seem to grow everywhere here so that would be a great feast for them!! Thanks for the tip on Seaside, we certainly can attend that. Thank you.


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## beedeetee (Nov 27, 2004)

Here is where you can find information about the convention:

http://orsba.org/htdocs/home.php

and here is where you can ask questions about Oregon beekeeping:

http://orsba.proboards.com/


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## KQ6AR (May 13, 2008)

Don't know if you're on facebook. There is a page called west coast beekeepers many of the members are Oregonians.


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## Stephanie21 (Aug 27, 2013)

No I am not on facebook, I have enough trouble managing the computer! Have to call the grandboys to help us figure out the DVD..... groan! But thank you for the suggestion.
However, I did watch some bee videos on youtube last night and now I can't wait to get a couple of hives!! I love the ones with the tops that looks like a little house roof. I also looked at some on line catalogs and now have a question about the hats and gloves. None of the gloves are sting proof in the description, but some people comment the heavy ones are awkward to work in. Also, see hats and veils galore what do most people use. I am planning on a couple of hives so don't feel I'll be wearing the garb for extended periods. Suggestions on veils and gloves please....... 
In the beginning I'm not expecting enough honey to need an extractor, can this be done by hand?
I can see my Christmas wish list forming!  Stephanie


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## rsjohnson2u (Apr 23, 2012)

As far as leaving the bees, the time that this could be a significant problem would be swarm season, which is late spring, early summer in the pacific northwest. Locals can help you with specifics...


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## Solarbeez (Apr 20, 2012)

Stephanie21 said:


> No I am not on facebook, I have enough trouble managing the computer! Have to call the grandboys to help us figure out the DVD..... groan! But thank you for the suggestion.
> However, I did watch some bee videos on youtube last night and now I can't wait to get a couple of hives!! I love the ones with the tops that looks like a little house roof. I also looked at some on line catalogs and now have a question about the hats and gloves. None of the gloves are sting proof in the description, but some people comment the heavy ones are awkward to work in. Also, see hats and veils galore what do most people use. I am planning on a couple of hives so don't feel I'll be wearing the garb for extended periods. Suggestions on veils and gloves please.......
> In the beginning I'm not expecting enough honey to need an extractor, can this be done by hand?
> I can see my Christmas wish list forming!  Stephanie


Did you get your questions answered? I just came across this thread. I've been keeping bees on the south central Oregon coast for about three years. I am basically a non-intervention natural beekeeper. The first two years I fed one of my hives in winter, (but not the others) This year I've decided that on the mild Oregon coast we might not need to feed them at all. I don't do any of the so called 'helping the bees' management of hanging mite poisons, using antibiotics, or using any foundation. I've had diseases but I prefer to let the bees work it out their way http://solarbeez.com/2014/10/02/a-long-long-brood-break/ If I had asked my fellow beekeepers about this hive, I would have been advised to open the hive up, inspect for a laying queen (eggs, larva) and if I didn't see one, I'd be advised to combine or get a new queen. 
I do grow as many bee-loving plants as I can in a poison-free environment. All my bees have come from swarms. I just don't buy into the "hygenic bee" philosophy, or package bees from out of the area. So far I've been lucky with bees that have been acclimated to our cool moist summer evenings. I don't believe in killing the queens from the swarm either, because to me, they are survivors that have proven themselves. 
You'll want some bee protection for sure if you collect swarms. I wore a half suit when I got my second batch of bees from a bait hive I put out...I wasn't tucked in at all and got about 25 stings in that little adventure, so I would suggest a full suit and gloves.  
You won't need an extractor...I used the crush and strain method for the little bit of honey I got from a dead out...got the honey before the wasps got it, but I'm not into maximum honey production at all...what I get from the bees is pollination services for my fruit trees, blackberries, and unlimited photo opportunities!


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## dudelt (Mar 18, 2013)

Check out Michael Bush's website at http://www.bushfarms.com/bees.htm. You will see ads/links for it on the right side margin of this webpage fairly often. He also has a couple of books which I encourage you to buy. He claims just about everything in the books is on the website, and I believe it to be true. I prefer a book over a website and buying the book will help keep the website open. Bees will do just fine in your area but beekeeping is VERY local and the system that works well here in Seattle or in Tennessee may not work well where you are. That is where a local club or other local beekeepers come into the picture. Good luck!


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## Solarbeez (Apr 20, 2012)

I bought Michael Bush's book, "The Practical Beekeeper." That is where I learned there are over 32 kinds of mites in the hive. Consequently, if you are poisoning to kill varroa mites, you are probably going to be killing the other mites. I've mentioned that at my local bee club, but they are so intent on killing varroa mites, it's like they don't want to hear it.
Here is a quote from the book..._*[UPSETTING THE BALANCE/B] "How much do we upset the balance of this rich ecosystem when applying anti-bacterials such as tylan or terramycin and anti-fungals such as Fumidil? Even essential oils and organic acids have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal effects. Then we kill off many of the mites and insects with acaracides.
After totally unbalancing this complex society of diverse organisms with no regard for benefit or not and contaminating the wax that we reuse and put in the hives as foundation, we are surprised to find that the bees are failing. Under such circumstances I would be surprised to find them flourishing!"*_*
I like this video of Michael Bush talking about the ecology of the hive...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DFKqgWuCBA#t=17

Michael Bush is one of the main influences in my efforts to 'go natural.'*


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