# Sloped Box Handle Cleats - see pics



## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

That's slick!
My boxes have a cleat across the hand holds as well. 2" x 3/4"
The lip of my migratory lid fits over it ( lids are extra long).
The cleat is even with the top of the box and helps add support to thin frame area.

I don't put handles on supers but I'm exceptionally strong ( and good looking)

I copied the cleat idea from a migratory guy.

I really need a cheap way to brand... Any ideas?


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## jrbbees (Apr 4, 2010)

Nice idea of the hand hold. But where they match up with the original cut out for lifting they would make a perfect home for the Black Widow we have in abundance over here.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

jrbbees said:


> But where they match up with the original cut out for lifting they would make a perfect home for the Black Widow


I've never seen a spider set up shop outside the box, only inside under the SBB or under the outer cover.


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Thanks. That is very helpful, and will save me some time trying to reinvent what you have perfected. Adrian.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Odfrank, what is the significance of the 15-32?


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Maybe it's his Beekeeper ID Number, like they have in FL?

I prefer picking up my supers by the handholds on the short sides. I have sometimes found doing so by the long sides is tippy.

It looks like you have made good cleats which make picking up boxes more secure for the person handling them. I have found great variation in how handholds are cut. I really like handholds that are scalloped so the top of the handhold goes up into the wood, not 90 degrees.

Cleats make it hard to stack equipment close together on a pallet or on a truck, though I know many find them no problem.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

sqkcrk said:


> I prefer picking up my supers by the handholds on the short sides. I have sometimes found doing so by the long sides is tippy.


That was just the bracer you had before heading to the yard kicking in.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Heh, heh. Very funny.


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## wildbeekeeper (Jul 3, 2010)

odfrank: are screwing them from the inside of the hive body or outside from the cleat? Nice idea with the sloped cleats!


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Bring one of those when you speak at our club meeting in February!


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## Mtn. Bee (Nov 10, 2009)

odfrank: Thanks for sharing, I have been thinking about a similar design to try to get away from rot behind the cleats!


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## tsk (Nov 26, 2010)

This is pretty similar to what I've done. I'll try to post a photo if I can. I use the scrap from a 1x8 and cut it 1.5" at 35 degrees. It doesn't cover the entire face, I center it. But it's material that's already available.

Edit: here's what mine look like:


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## sweetas (Apr 16, 2012)

Mbeck said:


> That's slick!
> My boxes have a cleat across the hand holds as well. 2" x 3/4"
> The lip of my migratory lid fits over it ( lids are extra long).
> The cleat is even with the top of the box and helps add support to thin frame area.
> ...




BRANDING
A router is a cheap quick simple way.

Use a 1/4 in router with a 45 degree bit and go 2 mm deee or whatever. 

For the boxes, I draw lines each side of a 19 mm piece of wood and freehand between the lines.

Preferable to do the routing before assembling.

If routing frames after assembly , just put in the hive and rout the centre frames, the outer two are hard to do, then re-arrange .

CLEATS
I use 42 mm x 19 mm pine, to go the width of the short side.

When I lift a box without cleats, I curse. It is so much easier with cleats. 

I pre-drill the holes using a jig so all the holes are where I want them without thinking.

I have a jig that places the cleat in the right spot for me. Its very quick.

I have just used the retangler wood without a slope.

Having read this article, I might put a slope on top side using a 22 degree router bit.

Hopefully water is not a problem as we suppose have 800 mm of rain per year but it really dry most of the year.


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## max2 (Dec 24, 2009)

"freehand between the lines."
do you use a felt pen, brush or??


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## sweetas (Apr 16, 2012)

I draw the lines with a pencil

I "freehand" with the router,.

A 1/4 inch router is light and smaller base diameter.

You can buy them for less than $50 new or less s/h. 

My brand in Western Australia is R01, which is fairly easy to do.

With the "R" I start at the bottom LH side and do in one run.

The "0" I start at about 2 o'clock and go to the left over the top in a smooth run.

With the "1" I start at the bit at the left at the top do one run.

FRAMES
When doing frames before assembly, I lay out ten on a bit of material that holds them steady and go for it.

A slightly damp towel would do. 

It takes 200 seconds to lay them out, rout the brand and month/year eg 5/12.

I put the month/year on all the stuff I make /assemble just for future reference.

It is not necessary.

That is 20 seconds each or 3 to a minute. 

I found using an electric brand too slow. 


BOXES 
I put on the brand, month/year, and box number. (not hive number) 


Routing is permanent and flexible.

I found using an electric brand too slow and I hired it from WAAS.

The $200 plus for a brand is not value for money
A electric brand is not going to give you the flexibility.

Geoff


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## max2 (Dec 24, 2009)

Got it! thanks max


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Michael Palmer said:


> Odfrank, what is the significance of the 15-32?


15 is the county and I was the 32nd person to apply or the band #.


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## sweetas (Apr 16, 2012)

Max

I had the indication you sent me a private reply. It was blocked by something.

Use my beesource name then @iinet.net.au

Geoff


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