# General swarm trap questions



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

I'd recommend moving your medium frames to the permanent hive before the bees have had an opportunity to build comb below the bottom bar. A few days to build _some _comb ought to be enough.

But then while I have lots of experience _placing _traps, the number of trapped colonies that I have _moved _into a permanent hive amounts to one. 

I retrieved that trap at dawn, before the bees had started flying, and moved it to my beeyard. I let it sit there for a couple of days and then transferred to a permanent body. I have since shifted to making my traps out of full size bodies, so I would have no reason to need to move the bees out of the trap - that body can be their permanent home.

Most of my traps are now 'mediums' with a temporary 3" shim screwed on to match the 40 liter volume of a deep (see Seeley's paper). The shim can be removed to convert it back to a medium body if I choose.


A free copy of a Dr Seeley swarm trap paper:
http://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/1813/2653/2/Bait Hives for Honey Bees.pdf


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## Grifon (Feb 9, 2015)

Thanks Rader. I like the idea of the shim tacked on to the bottom of a medium hive box. How do you attach the shim to the main hive body? Do you have your entrance hole built into the shim?


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

My 3" shims just have a couple of vertical scrap wood pieces that are screwed to the outside of the trap. In some traps I cut a notch in the bottom of the shim, and in others I glued 1/2" shims to the bottom board (piece of scrounged plywood) around the perimeter of the board with the exception of about a 2 inch gap. That gap creates the trap entrance. I really don't want to drill holes in my trap bodies as their primary purpose is as permanent hive bodies.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

rader
I do the same with the hive bodys. I just lined up peices of partical board 3 inches wide and used staples to attach it to the hive body and staples to attach it to the bottom board. If I catch a swarm and the box falls apart while trying to move it, I will have no one to blame but myself though I will probly have a pretty exciting story to tell when the swelling goes down.

I am curious how long you trapped and how many boxes you put out for your one catch. I am relying on being successful as I did not order bees yet. I have a fall back plan for mid summer but it could fall through and leave me beeless for one more year. 

Also, do you think the swarm you hived came from someones domesticated hive. I really don't know anyone that keeps bees around me but do know I seen a bunch last fall around my house.

I think I am going to put out some sugar water at my dads and see if I see any bees.
Thanks
gww


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

In 2012, before I had any bees, I placed 5 traps on my and my neighbors' properties. I hived 2 purchased packages mid-March, and then a swarm moved into one of my traps March 31. Easy as falling off a log, I thought! 

Following years I have had 9 traps spread around those same properties. No joy.  :waiting:


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

Rader
Thanks for the responce, sounds like highly posible but not nessisarily probable.
gww


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## TalonRedding (Jul 19, 2013)

A. How often do I check traps? I check mine usually once a week, sometimes every other week. It largely depends on the distance and schedule for me. I like checking on the ones close by during a really warm spring day right after a storm and a the sun begins shining again. Humidity spikes and sends swarms flying like crazy. I caught 7 in a 24 hour period last year and I got quite a few swarm calls during that period as well.

B. How long do I wait to move the bees? That depends as well. Last year I made the rooky mistake of using frameless traps. Big no no! Boy did that complicate things as well as set them back after cutting them out. I'll never do that again! Anyways I leftbthose last year for three days after finding them. This year, I'll just pull frames to check for brood. Once I find brood, they're going to the yard.

C. Do bees build on the bottom bar? If you're using frames 2 inches or more shallower than the box, then yes, they will definitely build off the bottom. Learned that from experience too, sometimes to my advantage, and some times not. Bees will also build comb from the top bar up into empty space if there is enough room. I wish I had a pic of that one.

D. Do you get the trap early morning or evening? If I pick up the trap in the morning it is always at dawn or earlier. I usually wait til after dark though and make one run for multiple traps. It just depends on the circumstances.

E. Any good books on the subject? I read Tom Seeley's paper but that was it. He wrote a book called "Honeybee Democracy" which I haven't read yet but anticipate doing so. 


As Rader has disclosed, I wouldn't bank on catching swarms to get started if you have such and such date in mind. But it is a good feeling when you walk up on a trap full of bees. It's actually become the most enjoyable aspect of beekeeping for me besides making new queens and splits from current stock. It does take time to make your runs and check them though, but that's not so bad to me.


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## GaryG74 (Apr 9, 2014)

There's a good article in this month's American Bee Journal on building and setting swarm traps.
Great info rader and talon, thanks.


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## Grifon (Feb 9, 2015)

Thanks all. Great ideas and information. I made a run to Lowes yesterday to pickup some material to make extensions for my mediums.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

Grifon
Good luck
gww


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