# Hello I'm from Western part of Massachusetts



## Cdiver85 (Jun 24, 2016)

When should I add honey supers I have added my second brood box couple of weeks ago I think my bees are slow I had to pyramid my frames because they were not working on the new frames after week . So here is my question do I have to wait until at least 6to 7 frames need to be filled on my second brood box to add my honey supers thank you


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## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

Welcome to the forum!

Are you feeding 1:1 syrup? That will push them to draw more comb at this time of year. I always feed new colonies to make sure they have a surplus of resources to grow lots of young house bees (they are the primary comb builders).

Wait until they have drawn out the second box about 80% (eight frames in a 10-frame box, and at least six in an 8-frame box) before adding a honey super.

In a colony's first year the name of game is to draw as much comb for brood and associated food storage space as possible. Although that sounds like honey supers are needed, the bees need brood space more, and towards the end of the year will start filling the outside frames and frames in the second box with winter stores to see them through the winter. They form a large clustered ball in the brood chamber (s) during the cold weather and food must be close at hand and not spread out more than necessary for them to be able to use it.

In MA, two brood chamber boxes especially if you are using 8-frames, or any size of medium boxes, for the brood chamber would be the minimum needed for having enough winter stores for safety for a full-sized colony. So keep on trying to get them to draw more combs in those two boxes. If they get fully drawn, then you can add a honey super.

While it is possible to get some harvestable honey the first year if you are lucky, it's more important in my view to get a well-developed brood area, with adequate storage for the winter food supply.

How big is your colony? This should be the time of maximum growth and build-out of the year. How many frames have capped brood on them? What are your mite levels?

Where I am north of Albany NY, for good wintering we need at least 110-120 lbs of total hive weight (the whole thing weighed together bees, boxes, combs, stores) but it's preferable to have 140 lbs. I encourage new beekeepers here to try and get three boxes of deeps drawn the first year, particularly if they choose to use 8-frame equipment. You are in a milder area, so your bees may not need as much food. I am in the z4/z5a horticultural zone. I expect you are solidly in z5A, maybe even a bit warmer. Check with your local club members to see what's usual for your particular area. 

I clicked on your link because it said Western Ma - and I was amused to find you are in Shrewsbury. When I was younger I lived in Stockbridge, now that's _western_ MA!

Have fun with your bees!

Enj.


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## Riverderwent (May 23, 2013)

Cdiver85 said:


> So here is my question do I have to wait until at least 6to 7 frames need to be filled on my second brood box to add my honey supers


When you say -- 6 to 7 frames need to be filled -- what do you mean? What do you mean by "pyramid"? Was this a package or a nuc? When did you put it in a regular hive? Are you feeding?


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## Cdiver85 (Jun 24, 2016)

I stop feeding two weeks ago because I read to stop feeding at this time of year I have a 10 frame hive so I'm very confused feed or not to feed


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## Cdiver85 (Jun 24, 2016)

I have a 10 frame hive. pyramid I took some of the frames from the first brood box and exchange to second brood box and replaced with empty to the first brood box because they would not build comb in second box


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## GZB (Jan 29, 2013)

Yeah, more information would help. I'd say you are in central Mass at best, with potential access to good swampland forage, and you should have decent resources into the fall. The bees can suffer from excess room in the hive early on, so don't be over-eager with adding a third box. Make sure they have adequate water and food to build comb and once they are 80% built out in the upper box add the super IF they are still building. If they've stalled out, just keep an eye on them and be ready to add the super if/when they get started again in September. I find that mine often take a summer break in the July/August heat. All beekeeping is local!


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## Cdiver85 (Jun 24, 2016)

I stop feeding about two weeks ago I have read stop feeding at this time I'm very confused some people say that I should not be feeding some people say I should I'm very confused don't know what to do


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## Cdiver85 (Jun 24, 2016)

Yep sorry moved up from rhode island to Shrewsbury ma this new and fun really enjoying bee keeping I can stay outside all day watching them come and go .the must be a new set of bees this week I got stung the old bees were. More calm


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## Cdiver85 (Jun 24, 2016)

And thank you for responding


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## Riverderwent (May 23, 2013)

Cdiver85 said:


> So here is my question do I have to wait until at least 6to 7 frames need to be filled on my second brood box to add my honey supers


At this time, I would wait until 7 or 8 frames have been drawn and the bees have filled some of that with nectar.


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## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

I'd keep feeding because it doesn;t sound like you've got enough comb drawn, yet. Sometimes you have to feed straight through the summer. Bees don't use calendars, so if there isn't enough forage and you still want more comb drawn, then continued offer of syrup is the answer. Don't stop just because you've heard you should stop feeding "at this time of year." 

All beekeeping is local (and varies from year to year, too, just for added complexity). So decisions must be based on what you see in the hive and what you want the bees to do. 

I'd only stop if the broodnest area was getting backfilled with open nectar (most likely syrup). Then I'd only slow down (don't offer syrup every day.)

One sign of a lack of forage is slightly grumpier bees - think of unemployed kids hanging out on a corner getting into trouble. Cure: more syrup!

You should get a good fall flow in your area, but the rate of drawing comb at that time will be slower (fewer of the right-aged bees in the hive by then as they start to draw down to the smaller winter population)so you might not have enough drawn cells to store it when it suddenly becomes available, and before it quits due to frost. If you fall flow doesn't pan out, then you'll need to feed a stronger concentration of syrup which isn't as conducive to comb drawing. Either way the cure is more syrup to draw comb, now.

If you have 10-frame deep hives for your brood nest, you want to keep them actively drawing (by feeding if necessary) until you've got 18 frames drawn (not necessarily filled as they may use up some of the stores raising your winter bees in Aug. ) If you're using 10-frame mediums, then the goal is 26 or 27 frames. (A medium frame counts as 2/3s of a deep when figuring frame capacity.)

So back to BJs (or Sam's Club, or Costco) for more bags of sugar. It's often on special at this time of year for home canners. You'll go broke feeding syrup if you buy it in 4 lb sacks at the grocery store.

Enj.


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## AmericasBeekeeper (Jan 24, 2010)

Welcome!


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## Moses Okeng (Jun 29, 2016)

Hi, 
Help Poor Women to start beekeeping in Northern Uganda to Educate Orphans, Please Donate at https://gogetfunding.com/help-a-poor-woman-start-sustainable-beekeeping-farming/, 
Thank you,

Moses Okeng
Lira, Uganda


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