# Swarm Trap plan for spring 2016



## cinch123 (Jan 16, 2012)

I made my own trap design based on Seeley's statistical analyses of their preferences. I have used them extensively over the past 5 years with great success. I have noticed that I get repeat swarms to certain locations but not certain traps. None of the swarms are in the traps long enough to deposit propolis, so in my experience, that shouldn't matter. 

Last year, I put out 5 traps and caught 7 swarms in them. Make sure you keep one handy for collecting swarms that are clustered too high for you to reach - I have found that if you put one of the boxes out and bait it with LGO, there's a pretty good chance they will start scouting it within minutes and occupy it within a couple hours.


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## FlowerPlanter (Aug 3, 2011)

>Am I missing anything?

Sounds like you got the most important things covered.

>should I swap the new boxes with older propolized equipment?

This will also increase your chances. If it's a lot of additional work it may not be worth it. The brood comb will make your biggest difference.


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## GaryG74 (Apr 9, 2014)

Agree with everything except I would put in 10 frames, one drawn comb, the rest with starter strips. You never know when something might come up and you can't get back to the trap before the swarm has filled it with comb. I would go with older boxes that have had bees in them for a year or two at least. I rub old comb and propolis on the inside of my swarm traps if they haven't had bees in them, plus use lemon grass oil on a cotton ball, in a sandwich bag. Good luck with your trapping.


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## Sky (Jul 7, 2015)

a glob of propolis in a small jar with some iso alcohol - let it dissolve a few days then shake it up and paint the insides of your new boxes to give them that "used box" smell...the iso evaporates, a thin layer of propolis is left...... smells like home...improves your acceptance rate a % or 2 when using new wood boxes for traps.
Sky


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## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

I think you got things covered. Sounds like you're on the ball and prepared for a very productive summer. I'm impressed!

Having read Tom Seeley's work, I'm revising my old practices and revamping my plans for 2016. My swarm boxes were six-frame nuc boxes built out of 1 x 12" boards and ran right at 30 liters. This was based on some foundational work by Justin O. Schmidt at the USDA when he was trapping AHB swarms near the ports. Seeley recommends 40 liters. My holes were 1" and Seeley recommends entrances of 2.33 square inches which is a 1.74 inch round hole...and that seems pretty large to me. I've caught swarms in these six frame nuc boxes, so I know they work, but I'm expanding my trap selection to some larger sizes.

I like Bee-Scent for my lures, one or two teaspoons on a paper towel sealed in a good quality zip lock baggy. This year I'm going to try Swarm Commander on some of my traps. I always include a couple of frames of old black comb, with one foundationless in between and the rest wax foundation. My experience with too many foundationless frames is the comb drifting over to the next frame. I used old frames with tongue depressor-style ribs.

The only other thing you didn't mention was how many traps per site. Personally, I like to hang two traps in each location, about ten or twenty feet apart, faced in different directions. I have found no substance to the idea that they have to face South...or East...or toward Hamilton, Illinois. (Little Dadant humor).

I've also quit using ladders. I never had an accident. I don't like pressing my luck. I now hand my traps about six feet high where I can reach them with both feet on the ground.

Grant
Jackson, MO https://www.createspace.com/4106626

.


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## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

Thanks for that tip. I've melted some of that old slummy gummed up crap left over from wax cleaning and smeared the hot mess along the corners. Not sure if it helps, but anything to make it smell more like home is a good thing.

Grant
Jackson, MO


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

Don't listen to me cause I had 12 traps out last year and came up zero. I don't know if it will help but I had april 1st as my "have to be out by" date. I did however already put about 7 out two days ago and am going to get the rest out as close to now as I can get moving and find the time. Might be a waste to be this early but I have them made and my fingers crossed. I only have about a square inch of old brood comb to throw in the bottom and foundationless frames and lemon grass oil. I put them in deer stands last year but now am only putting them 6 to 10 feet in the air standing on the ground or on an atv.
Happy hunting.
gww

Ps I guess the point to my rambling above is if you have the traps, why wait till april first?


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## Mefco (Oct 16, 2015)

Thanks for the advice everyone. The propolis paint sounds like a good idea, thank you Sky. And Grant can you tell me if you have any stats about having two traps in one location? Did you catch multiples at one location and only in one of the boxes? or were they evenly split? or maybe not enough data to tell? and you put 1 frame comb, 1 empty and 8 foundation in a 10 frame box? Does this affect the trap rate i wonder? Doesn't Seeley suggest that the bees measure volume by flying around the site? so won't foundation/comb in most make the measurement difficult? anyone have ideas or evidence about that point?
Thanks


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## TomG (Jul 26, 2014)

Grant said:


> I think you got things covered. Sounds like you're on the ball and prepared for a very productive summer. I'm impressed!
> 
> Having read Tom Seeley's work, I'm revising my old practices and revamping my plans for 2016. My swarm boxes were six-frame nuc boxes built out of 1 x 12" boards and ran right at 30 liters. This was based on some foundational work by Justin O. Schmidt at the USDA when he was trapping AHB swarms near the ports. Seeley recommends 40 liters. My holes were 1" and Seeley recommends entrances of 2.33 square inches which is a 1.74 inch round hole...and that seems pretty large to me. I've caught swarms in these six frame nuc boxes, so I know they work, but I'm expanding my trap selection to some larger sizes.
> 
> ...


Grant, do you already have any 5 frame nucs with lids? Ive drawn up some plans using plywood that hold 5 frames and utilize nuc tops so they can be dual purpose. I can get 12 out of 3 sheets of ply and they come out to right at 37 L


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## Lburou (May 13, 2012)

Just one more thing to consider: Wax moths!

I will spray that frame of drawn comb with Bt a. to kill the wax moth larva and keep the comb safe from damage. 

THIS Cornell University explanation describes Bacillus Thuringiensis as a natural pesticide and how it works. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) takes many forms. The form that kills wax moths is Bt, variant aizawai.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Not all swarms read Seely's manuscript or these threads on Beesource. I set up my arsenal yesterday, took out volley #1 today, and returned to a catch this afternoon. This swarm passed up 17 larger traps and entered multiple five frame nucs.


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## S4 basics (Mar 15, 2014)

One thing that is handy is to carry a spare trap with you that is ready to hang when you remove one with a swarm in it. I have caught up to 4 swarms in a season in two different spots. At least once the next swarm was in within 24 hours. Also I don't like filling the box with frames. Brood comb frame against wall with 2 foundationless next to it. A small nail at ends to keep them from sliding. If,(and it's only happened twice), they build outside of those on the roof you just invert roof and slice the comb off and put it in a frame. No problem. And don't forget backyards in older neighborhoods, some of my best are there.


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## kingd (Oct 31, 2013)

GaryG74 said:


> Agree with everything except I would put in 10 frames, one drawn comb, the rest with starter strips. You never know when something might come up and you can't get back to the trap before the swarm has filled it with comb. I would go with older boxes that have had bees in them for a year or two at least.


 This is the way I did it last year and caught 3 swarms from one location and one of the swarms filled a 10 frame deep,8 of the frames were completely filled,and no cross comb.
I like using the deeps so that way I can just take the whole thing to a new location and just throw a box on top.


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## californiahoneyBeeRescue (Jul 15, 2015)

sounds like a good plan.

I'm using 5 frame Deeps with one old comb and four with only starter strip.
ALL frames are old. My boxes (I made) are coated with old brood comb melted in the crook pot (with water) and then brushed on the entire inside. I use also lemon grass oil. 
I got three out of five last year!

good hunting


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## Bee Arthur (Mar 21, 2015)

To echo another comment, won't you get wax moths if you put drawn comb in the trap? I mean, if it doesn't attract a swarm within a week or so?


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## californiahoneyBeeRescue (Jul 15, 2015)

Not my experience. 

The drawn comb is very old. I wouldn't put it in a regular hive.


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## jadebees (May 9, 2013)

If you would rather not use much comb, OR.. for a new box, take all your spare hives, scrape the frames, really do a good cleanup. Mix all that with filthy black comb, make a ball or log, what you like better. Just touch it with a torch flame and use like a big crayon, inside. Smear the roof, a few topbars, just 2 or 3 good skidmarks. Make it with some polleny parts, old propolis, and the pressed out leftovers from wringing wax from black comb. I routinely use new Warre boxes as lures, and often use only starter strips. If I have spare, i will put 1 partial comb on 1 side, ( they always start on 1 side anyway.) That glop really brings them in. I crudely heat treat all the materials, to kill any pathogens. (Very fancy, as in, an old frypan on my stove.) But I have never seen a wax moth touch it. And also, use lemongrass oil or swarm lure with it.


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## Riverderwent (May 23, 2013)

Mefco said:


> I plan on using 10 frame 9 5/8 Mann Lake boxes with migratory type top easily removed top covers, solid plywood bottoms, bottom entry holes with area of 1.25" with nails or hardware cloth on to keep out birds or other critters, with 1 frame of drawn comb against outside wall, 2 frames of foundation next to that and the rest empty.


I'm not sure what you meant, but I would fill the remainder of the hive with foundationless frames.


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## CathyC (May 30, 2015)

odfrank said:


> Not all swarms read Seely's manuscript or these threads on Beesource. I set up my arsenal yesterday, took out volley #1 today, and returned to a catch this afternoon. This swarm passed up 17 larger traps and entered multiple five frame nucs.


Hi ODFrank
What bloom time do you put out the bait hives?
Cathy


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Traps should be set out at the beginning of swarm season, which here is beginning of March, but began early due to clear February weather.


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## CathyC (May 30, 2015)

odfrank said:


> Traps should be set out at the beginning of swarm season, which here is beginning of March, but began early due to clear February weather.


Ok. Thanks for such a quick reply. It is warm here early too. But... It looks like you are about 10 degrees warmer than Washington. I'll wait a couple of weeks.


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## WilliesHoneyCo (Jun 23, 2013)

ODFrank, nice catch. Do you notice any preference in size or is it just whatever they want to do? I have been hanging up 5 and 7 frame traps to vary the size.


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## crmauch (Mar 3, 2016)

Well, I'm "creating" 4 swarm traps this year ('building' would be too strong a word). All of them are a little unusual (and if I have success, I'll tell you what I did  ). Going with Lemongrass oil (LGO) as w/ shipping for 0.5 oz was $7.71 and SC (for 1 oz) was over 2 times that before shipping. I have quite a bit of beeswax, so I used it so create 'suggestions' for comb (they will have to be cut out if they are successful). Here in SE PA, planning to put them out about April 15th (unless anyone suggests earlier). 

I am also building two top-bars out of scrap wood, so we'll see if I have anything to populate them with.


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## BEK71 (Jun 6, 2015)

I do not have any foundationless frames, just wax coated plasti cell frames. Would you fill the whole trap with them or just a few frames? Also they are all new. I do not have any old frames with comb on them.


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## crmauch (Mar 3, 2016)

Cardboard.

Even though bees seem to like the pressed paper "pot" swarm traps, they are not fond of cardboard (or plastic). *SIGH*. 

That's not my question however: I am planning on putting wax on the outside of my boxes as a water 'proofing'. I have both beeswax and paraffin available. Which would be better in your opinion?

TIA (Thanks in Advance)


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## Grasshopper (Apr 20, 2013)

I hung two today. One is an old 10 frame deep with a frame of old comb and some propolis smeared around inside. The other is a five frame deep with the same frame set up. I hung one about 100 yards upwind from a feral colony in an old snag and the other I hung on a tree stand on a tree that I caught a swarm on last year. Both have LGO dribbled inside and at the entrance. It's early for my neck of the woods, but our colonies are building up earlier than usual so I figure they're better off hanging in a tree somewhere than sitting in my garage.


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## Reef Resiner (Jun 9, 2015)

I heard last year swarm season started around March in Oregon which I'm also told it started a month early last year since the wheather was unusually nice... I have 5 traps out currently and have my name out everywhere to pick up swarms. So far no traps or calls.


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## Reef Resiner (Jun 9, 2015)

CathyC said:


> Ok. It is warm here early too. But... It looks like you are about 10 degrees warmer than Washington. I'll wait a couple of weeks.


 sorry meant to reply to this with my first post. I'm not far from you in Portland.


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## Saltybee (Feb 9, 2012)

I think odfrank just catches vain bees, they want to live in the best looking house in the neighborhood. Must be a waiting list for those hex hives.


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