# Cutting Grass around bee yard?



## broev (May 10, 2008)

Whats the best way to keep the grass down around colonies. How close can you get with a lawn mower/weed eater/bushhog/roundup?


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## Barry Tolson (May 26, 2004)

I put some unused roofing shingles on the ground in front of the hive entrance to keep the grass down for about a foot from the entrance. When I mow, I mow the yard normally until I get a few feet from the hives...then take a break...put on my veil and mow up to the sides, then mow across the front at the edge of the shingles farthest from the entrances. 
There is seldom a problem. I always try to mow in nice weather at mid-day when most of the worker bee's are out foraging. Once in a great while, though, I do get escorted back to the house!


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## IndianaHoney (Jun 5, 2006)

When I go to my bee yards, the owners have always mowed up to the hives, but not in front of the hives. I then use a weedeater to get the rest. I have never had a bee get mad at me. I have had some bees come out on the bottom board and to see what was happening and figure out why grass is being thrown onto their landing pad, but none have paid to much attention to me.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I usually run the tractor right in front of them, but I don't hang around long. They don't seem to mind although certain times are tougher than others. Usually in the fall, they get a little cranky when I mow in front of the hives.


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## Benton2569 (Feb 26, 2007)

I use a push mover or weed trimmer. To play it safe I put on the gloves and veil and go right up to the hive. I do go slower in order to gauge their reaction and I try to stay off to the side of the flight path. After I have a good pile of clippings built up I will lay it in from of the hive to limit growth. This seems to work well.


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## Brent Bean (Jun 30, 2005)

I tried roofing paper under my hives but it only gave a great place for ants to stage attacks from. I have used rock salt under and around the stand, it kills the grass and weeds and ants don’t like it. It also quickly knocks off any mites that fall into it. When I have the trays removed from my SBB’s. I would also think it would discourage SHB from bouring into the ground below the hive.
When mowing around hives as long as the discharge is blowing away form the entrances and you don’t spend too much time mowing around them they are fairly tolerant. If you allow the discharge to blow into the hive it infuriates them.


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## reneal (Sep 6, 2006)

Well, I guess I'm lazier than most of you guys. I use Holsteins. Works great as long as there are bees in the hive. However they'll trash a hive if its empty. I get the added benefit that my grass gets recycled into beef. Only downside is that you have to watch where you're stepping when going out to the hives.


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## riverrat (Jun 3, 2006)

reneal said:


> Well, I guess I'm lazier than most of you guys. I use Holsteins. .


Wow you must bee from the land of milk and honey


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## honeyman46408 (Feb 14, 2003)

riverrat said:


> Wow you must bee from the land of milk and honey


* good one rat *


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## Budster (Mar 24, 2006)

I'm going to try the salt idea!!!! First I heard of it. Also, I try to keep the discharge from going toward the hive and the exhaust. My mowere discharges grass and exhaust out the same side...


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## broev (May 10, 2008)

Thanks for all the help. I'm moving my yard to a sunnier place and anticipate lots more grass. The rock salt idea sounds great, think I'll give it a whirl.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>Whats the best way to keep the grass down around colonies.

My method is, that I don't.


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## Brent Bean (Jun 30, 2005)

Not controlling grass and weed growth might work for MB, for me it would soon be so high that it would completely envelope a three deep hive. The bees might be able to find it but it would make working them hard for the beekeeper. Especially when your are pulling honey supers and have to wade threw chest high grass, weed, wild grapes, poison ivy and wild raspberries.


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## talkingamoeba (Feb 15, 2008)

I use a scythe and have not yet been stung. The handle allows me to reach in from the sides and there is no poison and no engine noise.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

I use 10% Vineger w/ 1 tsp liquid soap.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Mine sure don't care for the big Stihl weedwacker. It gets them charging out every time.


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## mudhoney (Mar 31, 2008)

I usually take one quick test pass, then gauge from there. My gals dont seem to mind yet but of course i dont stick around long.


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## Ted (Feb 20, 2000)

I use a form of Round up ( touch Down ) I think with all the weeds gone the hives stand out and it looks neat and tidy plus, I work alone some of the time and with long grass all the long grass gone I find it much safer ( less trip hazards ) and trust me if i trip and hit the ground in northern new York you beekeepers out west will know it!!!
now I know some might disagree with the use of weed killer but it would be the lesser of two evils ( me or the weeds )


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## beehoppers (Jun 16, 2005)

Talkingamoeba is right. The mowing scythe is the proper tool for mowing around hives.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Ted said:


> I use a form of Round up ( touch Down ) I think with all the weeds gone the hives stand out and it looks neat and tidy plus, I work alone some of the time and with long grass all the long grass gone I find it much safer ( less trip hazards ) and trust me if i trip and hit the ground in northern new York you beekeepers out west will know it!!!
> now I know some might disagree with the use of weed killer but it would be the lesser of two evils ( me or the weeds )



Try the vineger. Does the same. And cost like $2 a gallon.


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## wvbelcher (May 28, 2008)

*Grass Removal*

I would stack the boxes on bricks and I guess above all else just use common sense


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## Swobee (May 18, 2007)

Derek-
By a 10% vinegar mix, do you mean 1 part vinegar to 9 parts water? I may just have to test this out. My concerns are several for keeping the weeds down. Ticks like to hang out in tall grasses/weeds for one. Another reason is when the grasses/weeds die and dry, fire hazard is imminent. As was posted earlier, I don't care to wade through waste high weeds. There's a lot of poison ivy near some of our hives. Our landowners keep their land clean and they like a clean, neat area around the hives - a matter of pride in ownership.


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## BULLSEYE BILL (Oct 2, 2002)

Chiggers, ticks, fire hazard, tripping hazard, and pride in ones equipment and property are enough for me to keep suiting up and whacking the weeds down.

A clear flight path makes the bees more productive too.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Straight vinegar. No water. Actually whats available at my grocery store is 9%. Don't buy the 20% you see at the organic stores and lowes ect. They want $15-20 a gallon and does nothing more than the 10%. I put it in a pump up sprayer w/ a tsp of liquid soad to help it stick. What ever you spray it on it kills. (All most everything). And its dead next day. 2 days tops. If its not, it may just burn the tips of the weed and not kill it. Ex. Nutgrass. 

You can also put an ounce of orange oil per gallon in it to help kill the ticks and other insects as you spray the weeds. I keep a gallon mixed up at all times. And spot spray at inspections.


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## GRIMBEE (Apr 3, 2007)

I have the bee yard mulched with cedar from homedepo to keep grass and weeds down. its works well, but I also olny have 2 hives not 200. YET 
As far as cutting the grass I have a murray riding mower, and the bees could care less.


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