# Components of Swarm Harvester.



## LetMBee (Jan 4, 2012)

MSG: Cleo C. Hogan Jr. He is a user of beesource. He is a very helpful person. I would bet he will answer any questions you might have. He sent me a bunch of info on that thing.


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Thanks, I had read somewhere he was offline for a while. If he doesn't respond here I'll PM him. In general I like to post in threads because I believe Beesource users all benefit from learning together.


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## LetMBee (Jan 4, 2012)

Agreed..... If you get that thing working let me know. I am going to try it this summer as well.


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## whiskers (Aug 28, 2011)

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?259430-Wanting-to-get-the-queen-from-a-trap-out-HOW
A good explanation by Cleo C Hogan in this thread.
Bill


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Bill, it is a good explanation. I am clear on the basic concepts, but am curious as to why the Kelley picture shows the little wooden tunnel protruding so far into the hive box. It would seem to get in the way of frames. I assume that one puts enough frames in the box to fill it, and am wondering if the box butts up against the frames. I also assume that the best frame to put closest to the tunnel would be the one with the brood on it as that smell would get to the queen the quickest.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Everyone...The tunnel is relatively long so you can slide it into the transition, thus getting the trap as close to the brood nest as possible

If you have a major portion of it inside the trap (The tunnel is secured inside the trap by two screws from the outside of the trap, so it is adjustable) then you cannot fill it with frames, but, you don't need to. I most often use it for starts, and all I want is three to four good frames of bee, I slide the trap off and then slide another one on.

If you are wanting to get the queen, I often take two old brood combs and cut the end bar off one end, then cut the comb with a hack saw so that the trame will go in, over, and around, the tunnel. Then when the queen comes out she will be walking right into (actually between) brood comb. 

In the photos I send to anyone who wants to see them, (actual traps in progress) it clearly shows the arrangement of frames in the trap. 

I will always answer questions anyone has about the Swarm Harvester. As I have said somewhere on here before. I do not, and never have, received anything from Kelly on the Harvester. I gave them the idea because they could make it and sell it to those who did not want to make one for themselves. I wanted to help beekeepers, but I did not want to get into selling the Harvester. Everybody in this area uses this to get starts and trap outs that you cannot get to the bees directly for elimination of colonies. 

cchoganjr


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Cleo, thats great. Thanks for the reply. It's a clever system.


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## Russ (Sep 9, 2001)

Cleo, Could you send me Info on the Swarm harvester by email or snail mail which ever works best for you. Thanks, 

Dale Russell
704 Church St. 
Neodesha, Ks. 66757 Email [email protected]. Copy and paste works best for the Email


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

The link given above did not take me to the Kelly Swarm Trapper, here is the link that worked for me...

http://www.kelleybees.com/Shop/20/Queens-Bees/Traps/4014/Swarm-Harvester

I myself will pass on it. I can't see it being worth the price of a 4lb package of bees for me. I'm sure it's a great value for others, but I'm amazed at the pricing of anything having to do with bees now a days, and refuse to pay the high prices. I guess I'm fortunate to have most of the beekeeping ware that I need already.


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## bevy's honeybees (Apr 21, 2011)

I have one and it has paid for itself several times, and has saved a few bee colonies from extermination. I'm not a builder so it makes perfect sense to me to buy one already made, plus it's very well made.


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

Cleo C. Hogan Jr said:


> Everyone...The tunnel is relatively long so you can slide it into the transition, thus getting the trap as close to the brood nest as possible
> cchoganjr


Good morning Cleo:
How critical is the length of the screen cone? I made mine 2-1/2" long because it fits on the end of the tunnel. I hinged it so I can open or close the tunnel with it without opening the trap. Should I make the screen cone longer? Thank you for any considerations.
Colino


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Colino... Length does not matter. Size of opening that the bees exit through is the only real consideration.

cchoganjr


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## Paul McCarty (Mar 30, 2011)

I made a really big version of Cleo's handiwork it works great for me. Holds 14 frames and the bees usually fill most of it. It gets a lot of use. I put a disk entry on it and used a little wire cone from Brushy Mountain. I also added padeyes to the outside for lifting with pulleys/rope, and a screened bottom for ventilation in our desert heat to prevent comb collapse.


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## whiskeytripping (Nov 16, 2012)

Mr Hogan, i already have your 12 page PDF of this contraption of yours you sent me, thanks alot for sharing this with others, do you have anything with the size and dementions for the tunnels that fit inside each other? Or does the sizes not matter much, i will be making one of these for a 10 frame deep box, then again, if you only need 3 or 4 frames in it, i might be able to build it in a 8 frame correct? Thanks again for all the info you have shared with us hobby bee keepers


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

There is no set size for the tunnel s, just as there is no set construction. You can build 2 tunnels, you can use two pipes, you can put a cone on the tree and just drill a hole in the trap and insert the cone funnel inside it. I build most of my tunnels 2 1/2 X4 1/2., but a few are 3 X 5. That is, 4 pieces are two and a half inches and 4 pieces are 4 and one half inches. When assembled this leaves 1 inch inside. That gives you room for any angles that a tree or tank or other might need in order to make the trap level. If you are trapping for elimination it is easier to install the small conical bee escape in wood than it is in pipe. But, if you are trapping for elimination, it is just as easy to install a cone funnel constructed from screen wire and just drill a hole in the back of the trap and insert the cone into the trap. 

I like a trap that will hold at least 6 frames, because I primarily trap for starts and 6 good frames of bees will normally give me 4 + pounds of bees. Enough for a good start.

cchoganjr


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## whiskeytripping (Nov 16, 2012)

As always, thank you sir. Where did you find that little red funnel you use? I like that and bet it works good for a one way


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

It is a conical bee escape used for eliminating bees in the honey supers prior to harvest. They are fitted into a board like an inner cover. Bees exit the honey super then cannot get back in. Most bee supply companies have them. I know Kelly Bee Company has them. I believe Better Bee and Dadant also have them. I think they cost about $1.00 to $1.50 each. Just look for Conical Bee Escapes.

cchoganjr


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