# Slick Trick Honey Filtering.



## crofter (May 5, 2011)

I have described this filtering method before but quite a few may never have heard of it. Cant remember where I came across it but once I tried it there was no going back to anything I had done previously. The main component key to the operation is the bag filters available at Mann Lake. They are very fine polyester weave and have a large surface area so do not plug. All the wax and other debris winds up inside the bag and you can simply untie and place into another pail and back under the extractor. I have done several rounds, each one collecting more wax before they start to slow. After the bag has dripped dry the bag is simply turned inside out to dump the collected wax and water hosing it the other way cleans the bag very easily. Usually I have enough bags that I dont bother cleaning them till next day.

The first picture is the filter in the 5 gal. pail under the extactor. The elasticised opening is folded back down around the lip of the pail. When about 6 inches from full with extracted honey, the neck of the bag is gathered and tied off with the pull up cord and pail and all is moved over to the rope and pulleys and snapped onto the line. The counterweight on the descending line weighs about 6 or 8 lbs and takes a steady upward pull on the bag and the filtered honey is left in the pail. It commonly takes about half an hour to pull the bag out of the filtered honey but needs no babysitting and nothing can overflow, or spill; that part is totally hands off! When the bag has pulled up it hangs just above the filtered honey.. Not shown is the pair of small pulleys fastened to the ceiling. Spaced 3 or 4 feet apart so the descending weight is not interfering with the pull up bag

An hour after I finish extracting, the honey is all filtered and in 5 gallon pails. My cappings get scooped into another bag and get strained same fashion but I usually let that hang for a day. The strained out wax is very easy to take out of the inside out bags before they are back flushed.


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## CoffeeSwirls (Apr 19, 2021)

Are these similar to the paint filters sold at home improvement stores?


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

CoffeeSwirls said:


> _Are these similar to the paint filters sold at home improvement stores_?


They may be. I have not had my hands on those from that source. I dont know if they might be a lighter construction. The paint filters are available coarse and fine. Sure would be worth a look. The dedicated ones from Mann Lake are very sturdy with fancy overstiched seams. A bit lighter material by the yard is also available and my wife made up a few knock offs but the needle holes elongate a bit. They dont seem to pass objectionable amount of particles though.


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

CoffeeSwirls said:


> Are these similar to the paint filters sold at home improvement stores?


I've been using the paint filter bags for the past 20+ years, works great for me.

Use just as Frank shows.
Also I put them in a bucket with a honey gate and then drain the honey out through the honey gate into another bucket for storage.


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## bushpilot (May 14, 2017)

I use paint filters from Lowes, in the same manner as you. Regardless of source, this is an elegant and inexpensive solution to straining (not filtering!) honey.


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## joebeewhisperer (May 13, 2020)

crofter said:


> The strained out wax is very easy to take out of the inside out bags before they are back flushed.


Thanks! I would not have thought of this and the choke point when finishing has been waiting for a double screen sieve to drain.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

This looks a lot like "Brew In A Bag" (BIAB) which homebrewers have been doing for a while. That might be another source for Google searches and supplies.


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## TF_Beek (May 28, 2021)

I use a very similar setup. However I have the filter bag in a 5 gallon bucket that has multiple holes drilled in the bottom of it. This bucket is then placed over top of another, undamaged 5 gallon bucket that has a lid with the entire middle cut out. I can then run the extractor into a regular bucket, then dump it into the straining bucket, which will then drain very quickly into the bucket underneath it. By the time the extractor is done with the next bucket, the previous one is completely strained and the straining setup (the drilled bucket, cut lid, and straining bag) can be moved to a new bucket and the process repeats. No need to tie and untie the straining bag. Two or three strainer buckets if you are really making a lot of honey quickly. Works like a charm and is super cheap.

Edit: added benefit of keeping the honey covered almost the entire time. Learned this setup from Michael Bush Beekeeping honey harvest, Michael Bush (http://www.bushfarms.com/images/DoubleBucket2.jpg)


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

TF_Beek said:


> I use a very similar setup. However I have the filter bag in a 5 gallon bucket that has multiple holes drilled in the bottom of it. This bucket is then placed over top of another, undamaged 5 gallon bucket that has a lid with the entire middle cut out. I can then run the extractor into a regular bucket, then dump it into the straining bucket, which will then drain very quickly into the bucket underneath it. By the time the extractor is done with the next bucket, the previous one is completely strained and the straining setup (the drilled bucket, cut lid, and straining bag) can be moved to a new bucket and the process repeats. No need to tie and untie the straining bag. Two or three strainer buckets if you are really making a lot of honey quickly. Works like a charm and is super cheap.
> 
> Edit: added benefit of keeping the honey covered almost the entire time. Learned this setup from Michael Bush Beekeeping honey harvest, Michael Bush (http://www.bushfarms.com/images/DoubleBucket2.jpg)


I tried the multiple holes bucket as a holder for the filter bag; despite the multiple holes the whole of bag area is not used. It works but not quite as fast. That the bags do not have to be tied on and off would be a plus though, as that part can be a bit messy. I learned not to fill above 2/3 full made things easier. Either way sure beats pan strainers!


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## TF_Beek (May 28, 2021)

crofter said:


> I tried the multiple holes bucket as a holder for the filter bag; despite the multiple holes the whole of bag area is not used. It works but not quite as fast. That the bags do not have to be tied on and off would be a plus though, as that part can be a bit messy. I learned not to fill above 2/3 full made things easier. Either way sure beats pan strainers!


If you let the bag rest on the bottom, then you're correct, the whole area is not used. the trick is to suspend the bag within the bucket - the bottom of the straining bag should be an inch or two off of the bottom of the bucket. The entire surface of the bag is usable for straining then, and the already-strained honey runs through the holes in the bucket unimpeded. The first couple buckets run through the strainer almost as fast as you pour them in.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

Frank,
If you actually sell your honey, I'd avoid posting these pictures publicly.
I'd for one rather avoid buying honey processed in questionable hygiene environment.
Not that I am buying any.

I am sure everything is tip-top clean in your workshop.


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## ursa_minor (Feb 13, 2020)

My question would be are the paint bags made from recycled materials that should not be in contact with food? Just asking, not condemning.


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## Tim KS (May 9, 2014)

Frank-, I use the ML bags to unload my de-capper tank also. When the bags are dripped out, I put them into a bucket of cool water, with the capping wax still in them. I let them soak for a day and then replace the water & repeat until the water is clean, then hang them out to dry. It makes for nice clean, yellow wax when melted.  😁


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

TF_Beek said:


> If you let the bag rest on the bottom, then you're correct, the whole area is not used. the trick is to suspend the bag within the bucket - the bottom of the straining bag should be an inch or two off of the bottom of the bucket. The entire surface of the bag is usable for straining then, and the already-strained honey runs through the holes in the bucket unimpeded. The first couple buckets run through the strainer almost as fast as you pour them in.


If the bag full of unstrained honey is hanging it puts a heck of a strain on it. The way I do it is only the up pull from the weight I hang on the other end of the rope. Less than 10 lbs vs 50. My homemade bags would be busting at the seams but Mann Lakes probably would take the strain. Problem is when the elastic gets a few years old it does not grip the pail firmly enough to prevent peeling off. Found that out with some of the tall pails I have that does not allow the filling bag to be supported. Too heavy anyway.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

GregV said:


> Frank,
> If you actually sell your honey, I'd avoid posting these pictures publicly.
> I'd for one rather avoid buying honey processed in questionable hygiene environment.
> Not that I am buying any.
> ...


Yes certainly, and my bees are all trained to wipe their feet before entering.


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## Newbeek2021 (May 13, 2021)

GregV said:


> Frank,
> If you actually sell your honey, I'd avoid posting these pictures publicly.
> I'd for one rather avoid buying honey processed in questionable hygiene environment.
> Not that I am buying any.
> ...


From the guy that has his supers sitting outside on his porch?! What if they get _bugs_ in them!? 

from what ive gathered, unless your a tip top commercial operation and/or big enough to justify a "clean room" your prob harvesting in a garage/shed like the most of us. 

I think its an unspoken thing that "most" of us arent working in the most optimally clean conditions. So i try to turn a blind eye, judge not less ye be judged kinda thing.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

Newbeek2021 said:


> From the guy that has his supers sitting outside on his porch?! What if they get _bugs_ in them!?


Mind you I don't sell, etc.

As far as what I eat is not a concern.
Fresh, fried pig's blood used to be one of my favorite foods (with onions) - you gather the blood immediatelly after you stab the pig (a technicality for you).
Too bad I can not raise a pig in the backyard.

Of course, I harvest drone brood as nutritional supplement. No secret.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

crofter said:


> Yes certainly, and my bees are all trained to wipe their feet before entering.


That's good then.

It is just in WI they are very, very picky on the requirements.
Just for that alone I am not interested to even bother with it (the honey producing compliance is PITA - requires a dedicated and compliant honey processing facility).
On the other hand, this is what the consumers kinda assume.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

GregV said:


> That's good then.
> 
> It is just in WI they are very, very picky on the requirements.
> Just for that alone I am not interested to even bother with it (the honey producing compliance is PITA).


I hear you. Meeting letter of the law for off site merchandizing sorts out the triflers. Farm gate only sales is a different proposition. Same when selling eggs farm gate. Off site sales dictates that they must be graded.

I would rather eat my lunch out in the shop than any restaurant!


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

crofter said:


> I hear you. Meeting letter of the law for off site merchandizing sorts out the triflers. Farm gate only sales is a different proposition. Same when selling eggs farm gate. Off site sales dictates that they must be graded.
> 
> I would rather eat my lunch out in the shop than any restaurant!


I don't argue with a fellow beekeeper.
We both know how it is.

All I wanted was to let you know - this is a _public_ site.
I am on your side, if you don' see that.


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## Newbeek2021 (May 13, 2021)

We were just givin ya a hard time Greg


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

Newbeek2021 said:


> We were just givin ya a hard time Greg


Good.
Cause I am trying to save good folk from unnecessary trouble.
If crofter was based in WI, I'd give him a call just trying to save one's butt.


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## TF_Beek (May 28, 2021)

crofter said:


> If the bag full of unstrained honey is hanging it puts a heck of a strain on it. The way I do it is only the up pull from the weight I hang on the other end of the rope. Less than 10 lbs vs 50. My homemade bags would be busting at the seams but Mann Lakes probably would take the strain. Problem is when the elastic gets a few years old it does not grip the pail firmly enough to prevent peeling off. Found that out with some of the tall pails I have that does not allow the filling bag to be supported. Too heavy anyway.


I wrap a ratchet strap around the top of the straining bucket as well, over top of the straining bag. This helps hold the weight of the honey so you aren't relying on the elastic in the bag. 

I can see how the weight could be come an issue in some cases. Haven't had trouble with it yet, but may have just gotten lucky so far.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

The BIAB bags home brewers use will hold well over 100 pounds of wet grain.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

LBussy said:


> The BIAB bags home brewers use will hold well over 100 pounds of wet grain.


What mesh would they be? any guess and cost?


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

This one is 63 micron and $14.99. There are others more and less expensive. This is just the first one I found in a search.

Where these may help is providing a more secure method to suspend/hoist your finer mesh bags. I would expect a typical BIAB bag to support at least 20-30 lbs of grain, plus that again in water (you figure grain will absorb 1 pint per lb of grain.) 40 gallons of honey is ~48 lbs so I think those would be good.


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## G3farms (Jun 13, 2009)

40 gallons of honey will weight about 480 pounds, I think you for got a 0 in there.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

Well, no, I meant 4 gallons since you were using buckets. I added one extra 0.


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## Gray Goose (Sep 4, 2018)

LBussy said:


> This one is 63 micron and $14.99. There are others more and less expensive. This is just the first one I found in a search.
> 
> Where these may help is providing a more secure method to suspend/hoist your finer mesh bags. I would expect a typical BIAB bag to support at least 20-30 lbs of grain, plus that again in water (you figure grain will absorb 1 pint per lb of grain.) 40 gallons of honey is ~48 lbs so I think those would be good.


the "strainer" I use is 400 Micron.
the slow really clear one is 200 micron.

I think at like 45-50 microns it is considered "filtered"
I would think 300-350 micron would be workable for honey.

ya a 5 gallon pail of honey is heavy, I like the weigh idea as the max strain is always known.

GG


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## AR1 (Feb 5, 2017)

Newbeek2021 said:


> From the guy that has his supers sitting outside on his porch?! What if they get _bugs_ in them!?


Sadly, many of my hives currently have no bugs in them, or at most spiders and earwigs.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

Gray Goose said:


> the "strainer" I use is 400 Micron.
> the slow really clear one is 200 micron.
> 
> I think at like 45-50 microns it is considered "filtered"
> I would think 300-350 micron would be workable for honey.


Just giving some options. There’s no real “correct” mesh size for home brewing as the grain forms a filter bed. There are more coarse options available.

The point being, these are made to hoist and hold the weight.


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## Jack Grimshaw (Feb 10, 2001)

Personally I prefer the 2 stage metal strainers that sit on top of a pail under the gate on my extractor.I have 3 and rotate as they plug.The pail gets dumped into a bottling bucket with a paint strainer held up with a stretched bungie and then into storage buckets.When we bottle,buckets are skimmed and poured into a bottling bucket with another strainer bag.
I'm too small for a settling tank but too big to deal with wax filled bags.At some point you need an uncapping tank to deal with draining your cappings.
Big box paint strainers are identical to the honey straining bags sold by the bee suppliers and much cheaper.


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## Omega (Jul 15, 2019)

Little late to the party, but we also use paint filter bags - found a 25-pack of reuseable ones on Amazon that were noted to be food-safe. The difference is that we don't have an extractor (only two hives), but they do work great in a fruit press for crush and strain! Crush it down as tight as it can go and get your main harvest out of the comb, then just leave a jar under the spout overnight. Got a full extra pint+ of the usual 2 out of a medium frame. Very little waste, and then you can drop the strainer bag into a pot of water or double boiler to process the wax.


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## CaptainJack Honey Bees (Mar 8, 2021)

CoffeeSwirls said:


> Are these similar to the paint filters sold at home improvement stores?


I use the paint filters, they only cost like $3.00 & they last & last. Never had any problems with them.


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## b33keeper (Aug 9, 2021)

I'm not a beekeeper much yet, just a beginner. I don't think I'll be straining honey next to my basement toolbox, filled with dirty tools, and with a dirty work shirt hanging above it too, taking pictures of that to show everybody. I plan a room in my house cleaned up for that, yes, cleaner than my own kitchen, even if it doesn't meet every single federal rule. I'll want to show a good face. 
As to every federal rule: I recently found out all my chickens out in the yard are against federal law. Rules say I have to keep them in a hermetically sealed building with hepa filters and all, with sticky mats at the entrances, and no light of day can ever reach them, and I have to feed them antibiotics all the time. Since our federal government is a fraud at best, I don't believe in its laws for their own sake. Cleanliness in food production, however, has reasons besides the law. For instance, I still wash their eggs even though my chickens out in the rain with muddy asses aren't following all the rules, eating weeds, bugs and worms instead of certified chicken food. I'm not going to find faults with people for not following chicken-**** rules, but you really do need to do better, or at least try to look like you're doing better, lest people see your photos and get disgusted with ever tasting honey again. By the way, is there brake dust in your honey? Grease? Used motor oil? Weed Killer? That's what I think when I see those photos.


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## drummerboy (Dec 11, 2015)

LBussy said:


> This looks a lot like "Brew In A Bag" (BIAB) which homebrewers have been doing for a while. That might be another source for Google searches and supplies.


True, apparently both activities lend to each other. I know a few home brewers and a few beekeepers, but even fewer that do both, myself included. Some Equipment can often be inter-changed depending on intended uses....and I'm not even getting started about making mead from your own honey, that'd take another thread.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

I've been homebrewing and making mead for about 30 years now (also a BJCP judge for 25.) The first thing I thought when I saw the email from the VA telling me about the beekeeping course was: "I can save money making mead!" 

Yes, I know, you are laughing.


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## bpwilly (Jun 9, 2016)

I picked up a few of those BIAB bags this year from Amazon for use in my apple press. They are a whole lot better made that the paint strainer bags I have used in the pas plus they have draw strings to tighten around the bucket. And the price is quite good for something that can be cleaned and reused. BIAB They worked grat on the apple press and feel more than string enough to hold the 40-50 pounds that a 5 gallon bucket would hold of honey and wax cappings. They seem to be about the same mesh size as the paint strainers. But 3 for 12 bucks a great deal.


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