# Hive Stands - what to use if you're not good at carpentry



## clarekate (Mar 13, 2016)

I'm a first year beekeeper and have been trying to make sure I have everything I need for when my packages arrive in late April. I have zero experience in anything carpentry or woodworking related, and to be honest, the first time I ever even used a staple gun was a my club's build day! My husband has the tools for a very simple project, but he's much better and mechanics and motors, admits he's not so skilled at carpentry. I need suggestions for making a stand for my three (starting with 2, would like to move up to three) hives with screened bottom boards.

Searching around, a lot of the plans look a little complicated. Considered just splurging and buying some of the "ultimate hive stands," but these seem pricey. Has anyone used them and are they worth it, a good investment? My club's bee school also recommended raising hives 18" to protect against skunks, and a lot of the commercial hive stands I've seen only raise 12". Is that a concern?

I'd love to know if any of the commercial stands are worth it or if anyone has some really simple suggestions to build at home. Not necessarily looking for anything fancy, but prefer not to have an eyesore either. 

Thanks for your help


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

how about a few cinder blocks and 2 8' fence posts (round or square). no carpentry involved.
all my stands are made this way. cost about $25 at HD
3 or 4 cinder blocks per 8' stand. holds 4 hives.
level them as good as you can and try for a slight dip towards the front rail so
rain rolls off to the front of the hives.
BTW 18" off the ground is to high to work when the boxes stack up.


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

I use blocks as well. But mine are set up as permanent individual stands for each hive. Just make sure they are level and you're all set.

I pick up all of my blocks from residential or commercial jobsites with discarded material headed for the dumpster. Free stands.


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## Agis Apiaries (Jul 22, 2014)

Cinder blocks are very handy, as long as you are not in an area with ant problems.


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## warrior (Nov 21, 2005)

Pick up two pressure treated 2x6s 8 foot long from your local big box store along with a small box of galvanized 16 penny nails. If you have a power screwdriver 3 inch coated deck screws are better.
The tools needed are a square of some type, a pencil, a hand saw, a tape measure and a hammer or power screwdriver. While at the big box pick up one of the cheap plastic (usually orange) layout squares, it'll actually be a triangle with a flange on one side.
Now on each board measure and mark two three foot and two one foot sections to cut. Use the square and pencil to make a square cut line. Cut the pieces. To assemble measure in one foot on each of the three foot boards and make a square line, this square line is where you will secure the one foot pieces.

You'll end up with two 36"x15" stands with the boards standing edgewise. You can put two hives per stand.


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## zhiv9 (Aug 3, 2012)

Make a simple box out of 2x4 pressure treated and just lay it on the ground.


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## jbraun (Nov 13, 2013)

I also use 2 concrete blocks per hive stand with 2- 4" x 4" x 8' on top of the blocks. This presupposes your space for your hives is pretty level. Put the 4x4's on top of the blocks and level the blocks up so the hives don't tip over. I only use 3 hives per stand but you can put 4 on them if you don't mind them tight. The advantage for me is I can move these stands and hives with no problems.

I made a 2 x 6 pressure treated stand and now it sits all lonely and dejected with no hives on it.


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

clyderoad said:


> how about a few cinder blocks and 2 8' fence posts (round or square). no carpentry involved.
> all my stands are made this way. cost about $25 at HD
> 3 or 4 cinder blocks per 8' stand. holds 4 hives.
> level them as good as you can and try for a slight dip towards the front rail so
> ...


This will work just fine. Little cost, easy to set up and use. Also what Mike G. showed work well.


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## clarekate (Mar 13, 2016)

Thanks everyone! Really appreciate the feedback, details, and pictures. This helps tremendously


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

8 ft landscape timbers run less than $4 a piece here. I use cinderblocks and old 3 in well drilling pipe on some of mine.


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## tech.35058 (Jul 29, 2013)

Short of actually building any thing, I have done most of what others have suggested above.
I have used ( usually scrounged) concrete blocks for my ground contact parts, and as my hives get bigger, I think the better stands are where I used an old pallet for the platform. try to find a pallet with the boards close enough together & sturdy enough to stand on when working the hive.
Consider the weight of the hive(s) with full honey supers, plus the beekeepers weight.


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## clarekate (Mar 13, 2016)

tech.35058 said:


> Short of actually building any thing, I have done most of what others have suggested above.
> I have used ( usually scrounged) concrete blocks for my ground contact parts, and as my hives get bigger, I think the better stands are where I used an old pallet for the platform. try to find a pallet with the boards close enough together & sturdy enough to stand on when working the hive.
> Consider the weight of the hive(s) with full honey supers, plus the beekeepers weight.


I'm using screened bottom boards. Do you think the pallets would still let enough ventilation and (hopefully anyway) let some mites fall through? The blocks and pallets seem the most straightforward and sturdy option for sure, although the two boards/poles laid across the blocks seems like something I could accomplish as well.

Really, I know they're stupid expensive, but I'm still considering the Ultimate Hive Stands since I only have 3 hives and it might be a good investment.


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## Brad Bee (Apr 15, 2013)

clarekate said:


> Really, I know they're stupid expensive, but I'm still considering the Ultimate Hive Stands since I only have 3 hives and it might be a good investment.


They are, or I should say that style is a great investment. I make my own. I own a semi truck/trailer shop and always have scrap steel laying around. I made several stand alone hive stands for one hive then I started making benches that hold 3 hives. I like the benches better, although the middle hive is harder to work. One that holds 2 hives would probably suit me best.

Steel is cheaper now than it's been in years. It's a good time to buy if you can or know someone who can weld them up for you.


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## johnbeejohn (Jun 30, 2013)

2 landscaping timbers laying parallel on the ground easzy peazy


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## BB1980 (Jan 22, 2016)

I bought 3 treated 2x4's 10ft long each. Cut one into 18" sections. Secure one of them to each end of the othe two 10ft sections. Next, you can put a bottom board on top to see how wide to put the next support to hold one hive. The ones in the middle you can measure over 20" from the inner side support of the end hives for the first support of the inner hive. Then use a bottom board again to see where to put the next support. Mine will hold 1 nuc and 3 regular hives. The 18" supports will allow you to set frames down between the 10ft long sides while doing frame inspections. Set on some cinder blocks (I need to turn mine so the holes are on the sides to prevent ant hills). 

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb295/mindstormsolutions/20160324_123451_zps02va0i5w.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb295/mindstormsolutions/20160324_124038_zpsuczj3js4.jpg


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Two 6 inch concrete block make a good hive stand. Or two 8 ft pressure treated Posts or 4 X 4s laid parrellel on the ground work well too.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

The new treated wood eats galvanized nails . Use the right screws they are coated to take the high acid Count In the treated wood.


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## jbeshearse (Oct 7, 2009)

https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/[email protected]/8275395733/

4- 4x4 posts set in the ground with 2 pressure treated 2x4s lag bolted to them. Easy. Just don't span over 5' with the 2x4s


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## Stephenpbird (May 22, 2011)

I have most of the woodworking tools one needs and a few more, that said I still only use concrete blocks.


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## RichardsonTX (Jul 3, 2011)

My bottom boards sit on top of two sacrificial 2x4's. I use to use stands, cinder blocks, etcetera until I realized it was a lot easier this way. They don't get too tall. I can lay them over for inspection. I can move them really easy.


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## TWall (May 19, 2010)

In general raising hives higher off the ground can make it harder to work if there are several supers added to the hive. Skunks may/will be a problem. There are several ways to foil skunks, raising hives is only one.

For longer term locations I like to use concrete blocks as a base to start with. I dig down deep enough to put a concrete block buried half-way. In the process of leveling a block may sometimes be deeper than that. I then place a second block on top of the first. I build a simple frame out of treated 2x4's. It is narrow enough to still fit on top of the concrete block and long enough to fit three hives side by side on.

Tom


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Quite a few of my hives have been on two treated four by fours... a little shovel work to level them and you can put a row of hives on them.

That's what these are on:
http://www.bushfarms.com/images/EightTenEightHives.jpg


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## tech.35058 (Jul 29, 2013)

clarekate said:


> I'm using screened bottom boards. Do you think the pallets would still let enough ventilation and (hopefully anyway) let some mites fall through? .


I am drifting away from the "ventilation movement", I try to run sticky boards all the time, so ventilation over the pallet is a moot point.
you could always space the hive up a little with 2x4 or 4x4 blocks, I guess.
I used to interpret bees bearding outside the hive as a "problem". I would add an open sbb, & more of the bees would go back in side.
now I interpret this as more of the bees are having to work to maintain the desired temperature. 
But what do I know? I am still a new guy.
I personally advocate sbb for pest management, and upper & lower entrances for ventilation.
remember, "ask 3 beekeepers, get 5 answers" 
Good Luck with your bees. CE


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## GarrickG (Nov 29, 2014)

These are made with deck blocks and 2x6's. Not much carpentry skill needed...


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## mrobinson (Jan 20, 2012)

I use top-bar hives, and I am _certainly_ no carpenter. My hives are made out of "found" wood that's been on the property for years, and they sit on boards between stacked-up cinder blocks. (The only thing that seems to be important is the hives should be _level_ along both axes. Yes, use a spirit level to check this, adding small wooden shims as needed.) Total materials cost for two hives was $35.00, mostly for big metal handles mounted on both ends of the box. I used the approximate proportions described in _Barefoot Beekeeper,_ but none of the woodworking. The entrance consists of three wine-cork-sized holes, sometimes filled with ... wine corks.

The hives were lightly sprayed (outside only) with Thompson's Water Seal. (The top, which is made of plywood, was sprayed on all sides.) Paint 'em if you think it looks nice. (A friend of mine is positively artistic with hers.)

Cheap, easy, and perfectly satisfactory. The hives sit in a semicircle, all facing outward, to provide a convenient work space for me. They sit under a large shade tree in the middle of a pasture.


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## Beeman1554 (Sep 29, 2015)

Wooden pallets. Always free somewhere.


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## BeeBop (Apr 23, 2015)

I'm not much of a woodworker either, but I can zap steel together well enough. 
And almost anybody can mix concrete in a wheelbarrow and stuff it in an old tire...


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