# Jar feeder on a nuc



## Cjj (Dec 12, 2015)

Was going to make some tops for a couple nuc's and I like the top jar feeder question I have is without placing another box and cover on top how will the weather affects the nuc mainly the rain leaking down in the hive ?


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## beefarmer (May 2, 2010)

i make like a migratory nuc lid, drill the hole the lid size and put screen on underside of lid, invert jar feeder with holes poked in lid and set down into hole on top of screen, works great and can refill without opening hive, when don't want to feed just stick another lid in hole without the holes keeps rain out


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## Cjj (Dec 12, 2015)

So you don't get that much rain water down along side the feeder


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## tommyt (Aug 7, 2010)

Cjj said:


> So you don't get that much rain water down along side the feeder


The feeder lid fit should be snug or thereabouts 
No need too worry bout the rain,
Won't be enough to to bother them.


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## GSkip (Dec 28, 2014)

I don't screen the hole the bees will seal the lid to the top. When I remove the feeder jar I go slow and the bees usually ignore me. I shake off any hanging on the the lid. When I'm not feeding I leave an empty jar with lid in the hole they will seal around the lids preventing any water from entering.


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## burns375 (Jul 15, 2013)

If you leave a blank lid in without insulation, it will condensate in northern climate winters.


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## J.Walters (Sep 24, 2015)

My solution to feeding nucs is migratory lid with a perfectly cut hole using an adjustable cutter "as in the picture". Once I painted the lid, I brush hot wax to the inside of the hole. The jar fits tight that even if it rains the bees stay dry. Menards sell the adjustable cutter, fyi.









Almost forgot, make sure you buy all of the exact same size jars "Ball" type, because on different manufacturers, the size will +/- on fitting tightly...

Good luck!


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

I fill the jar half way up with dry sugar, the bees seal up around the lid with propolis. I figure the half full jar of sugar will help prevent heat loss through the lid and empty jar, if I left it empty.


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## Dave1958 (Mar 25, 2013)

I've been thinking of cutting a hole in a migratory lid and placing either a 2liter bottle, or a 20 oz bottle. Ive been told to place only 1 hole, but what size, and why did I read only 1


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## Davers (Aug 6, 2014)

Does anybody have a problem with leakage. When I put one on and it gets half way empty, it leaks on to the bees to the ants below.


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## sc-bee (May 10, 2005)

Davers said:


> Does anybody have a problem with leakage. When I put one on and it gets half way empty, it leaks on to the bees to the ants below.


 Holes too big or too many.


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## J.Walters (Sep 24, 2015)

Dave1958... just speaking from experience here, do not use 2 liters or plastic bottles that can easily crush. The vacuum that it creates will crush /dent in the bottle and will create a siphon that will empty the entire bottle down on the bees. I lost 6 nucs this way, thinking the bees drank it down to only open the hive to find a sticky, wet mess. Use glass jars or new metal paint cans is another option. 

As far as the holes in the lid, only use a very small drill bit or paneling nail. Only 5 or 6 holes to keep the vacuum that it will create. Wet bee are DEAD BEES...


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## sterling (Nov 14, 2013)

Is there a reason the jars are always in the middle instead of the front end of the nuc so if it leaks the syrup will not spill on the whole cluster.


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## J.Walters (Sep 24, 2015)

Good question Sterling, I have no idea...I just saw how everyone else was doing it, so I cut all 75 of mine in the center. Best guess, the cluster can go straight up to the jar?


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

GSkip said:


> I don't screen the hole the bees will seal the lid to the top. When I remove the feeder jar I go slow and the bees usually ignore me. I shake off any hanging on the the lid. When I'm not feeding I leave an empty jar with lid in the hole they will seal around the lids preventing any water from entering.


Dead right. I used to put screen on there and really work to get a good tight fit. Now I merely drill a 1 1/4" and set an inverted quart jar on there that has holes punch in it. Remover the top gently, take a couple steps away, sling of the jar in a quick movement to dislodge and bees on there (they always fly back to the entrance), unscrew, refill, set it gently over the hole. Unscrewing the jar can be the hardest part as any spilled syrup will crystalize and set up like glue in the treads of the lid. Gently rap on the edges of the lid with a hive tool to break the sugar crystals. They'll make it waterproof in short order once it's back on there.



sterling said:


> Is there a reason the jars are always in the middle instead of the front end of the nuc so if it leaks the syrup will not spill on the whole cluster.


Personally I put them at the far end opposite the entrance. It makes it all but impossible for robber bees to get to it.


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

D Coates said:


> Dead right. I used to put screen on there and really work to get a good tight fit. Now I merely drill a 1 1/4" and set an inverted quart jar on there that has holes punch in it. Remover the top gently, take a couple steps away, sling of the jar in a quick movement to dislodge and bees on there (they always fly back to the entrance), unscrew, refill, set it gently over the hole. Unscrewing the jar can be the hardest part as any spilled syrup will crystalize and set up like glue in the treads of the lid. Gently rap on the edges of the lid with a hive tool to break the sugar crystals. They'll make it waterproof in short order once it's back on there.
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I put them at the far end opposite the entrance. It makes it all but impossible for robber bees to get to it.


I really like the way your's sound. If possible please post a couple of pictures of your set-up. Or forward to me in a PM. Thanks


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## Beardedbee1 (Feb 10, 2015)

I take a poweraid or Gatorade bottle and cut the threaded end down to the little edge it has around it. I cut the hole in the lid the size of the inside of the threaded end put some glue in the hole and tap this into the hole of the lid and let it dry. Creates a very good seal and any 12 to 20 oz bottle will fit into the Gatorade piece you glue in place. The feed bottle top is drilled with a 1/16 drill bit and put about four holes in it. When filling the bottles leave about 1/2 inch space so that when you invert it to place in the hole a vacuum seal is created and you Sony drown the bees. If the bottle is removed and then replaced its best to refill it to get the correct vacuum seal in the bottle. You can see an example on my you tube page at bearded bee honey farm. I have a video on there showing a couple of tops with the feed bottles in them. Hope this helps.


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## Tim KS (May 9, 2014)

Just cut the hole in the top a bit smaller than the jar lid. Then just set the jar on top. I've never had one blow off in the KS wind, and they are easy to fill.....actually I just pull the empties and replace with full jars (two sets of jars). When not feeding...just a piece of flat lumber over the hole and add brick.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

I use a good number of these:










A 3/16" hole is all that's needed


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Cjj said:


> Was going to make some tops for a couple nuc's and I like the top jar feeder question I have is without placing another box and cover on top how will the weather affects the nuc mainly the rain leaking down in the hive ?


Place a sheet of tar paper under the cover, as an inner cover of sorts. Or a piece of canvas. I have used that technique with hives for years. That's enough to protect the colony from what might come down in through the hole.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

sterling said:


> Is there a reason the jars are always in the middle instead of the front end of the nuc so if it leaks the syrup will not spill on the whole cluster.


If a colony in a nuc is going to be anywhere they might not be near the front or the back. Besides that, top feeder jars won't leak unless something is wrong with the jar.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

sc-bee said:


> Holes too big or too many.


:thumbsup:


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## AstroZomBEE (Aug 1, 2006)

J.Walters said:


> My solution to feeding nucs is migratory lid with a perfectly cut hole using an adjustable cutter "as in the picture". Once I painted the lid, I brush hot wax to the inside of the hole. The jar fits tight that even if it rains the bees stay dry. Menards sell the adjustable cutter, fyi.
> 
> View attachment 22831
> 
> ...


That is a great tool there, the true adjustable whole bit. I swapped my cutting bit out for a carbide tipped lathe bit though, Really helps when you are putting in thousands of new covers into service.

Aaron


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## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

BeeCurious said:


> I use a good number of these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What am I looking at here?


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## heaflaw (Feb 26, 2007)

I made boxes to go over my nucs to decrease robbers after the flow is over. Also, they don't seem to propolize as much if you use a large mesh screen (#7???) over the opening for jars of sugar water.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

If you make your feeder jar hole the size that a 5 lb jar lid will fit in, what is called a G Mason Cap, you can always stick a 5 lb jar lid in the hole and no water or snow is going to get into the nuc. It also makes it so that a 5 lb jar full of syrup won't fall over as easily as if it were standing on top of the nuc lid.


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## Scott Gough (Dec 10, 2015)

kaizen said:


> What am I looking at here?


You are looking at a mason jar lid with a small brass or copper pipe soldered into the lid. You can see them on this web page...

http://scientificbeekeeping.com/fat-bees-part-3/

All that is needed in the hive top is a small hole for the pipe to stick in.


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## Estell Tabor (Aug 5, 2014)

I use a boardman feeder in the main entrance,but i screen off the entire entrance so only bees inside can access the feeder. On the opposite side of the nuc i drilled a hole towards the top of the box and put a robber screen over the new entrance.


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## chris w (Dec 31, 2014)

I'm interested in making some mason jar feeder's with the 1/8" copper tube like Scott mentioned on Randy Oliver's website. Does anyone know where to purchase the 1/8" copper or brass flared inserts or an easy way to make the flare without purchasing a special flare tool?


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## beemandan (Dec 5, 2005)

After a season of two mine start to leak. I had nearly a hundred new ones in the barn that I didn't put into service. I needed a bunch this year...so I decided to caulk them before I painted....and use hive top feeders.


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## beemandan (Dec 5, 2005)

Davers said:


> Does anybody have a problem with leakage. When I put one on and it gets half way empty, it leaks on to the bees to the ants below.


This happens pretty often. Usually the syrup is down a little with an air pocket above. The day warms and the air expands pushing syrup out the holes.
Common here.


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## beekeating (Jul 4, 2014)

Is like to know how to make the brass inserts too


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## AJ7 (Aug 26, 2015)

I took the cover from a peanut butter container and cut the center out leaving enough lip for the mason jar to rest on, placed the cover over the hole in the migratory top and screwed it down to eliminate leaking. Placed mason jar onto peanut butter cover then screwed PB container into cover. I was looking for a way to feed a nuc in the cool fall weather, sun warmed it up quite nicely and didn't have to worry about it getting blown over.


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## heaflaw (Feb 26, 2007)

chris w said:


> I'm interested in making some mason jar feeder's with the 1/8" copper tube like Scott mentioned on Randy Oliver's website. Does anyone know where to purchase the 1/8" copper or brass flared inserts or an easy way to make the flare without purchasing a special flare tool?


My local auto parts store has done it for me.


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## dixieswife (Apr 15, 2013)

beemandan said:


> This happens pretty often. Usually the syrup is down a little with an air pocket above. The day warms and the air expands pushing syrup out the holes.
> Common here.


Is it preventable?


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

Scott Gough said:


> You are looking at a mason jar lid with a small brass or copper pipe soldered into the lid. You can see them on this web page...
> 
> http://scientificbeekeeping.com/fat-bees-part-3/
> 
> All that is needed in the hive top is a small hole for the pipe to stick in.




I started doing this for when I do need to feed nucs and it works wonderfully, when you don't they propolize the hole on top and no leaks from rain


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

chris w said:


> Does anyone know where to purchase the 1/8" copper or brass flared inserts or an easy way to make the flare without purchasing a special flare tool?


I bought lengths of brass tubing from a hobby shop. 



Harley Craig said:


> I started doing this for when I do need to feed nucs and it works wonderfully,


It's amazing how much syrup can be consumed through a ⅛" diameter brass tube.


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

dixieswife said:


> Is it preventable?


Originally Posted by beemandan View Post
This happens pretty often. Usually the syrup is down a little with an air pocket above. The day warms and the air expands pushing syrup out the holes.
Common here.

A bit off topic but can you use a "baggie" type feeder with a five frame nuc? If so would you need to use a top cover?
Thanks.


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

BeeCurious said:


> I use a good number of these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bee, how did you solder without burning the seal? I tried it last winter and gave up, used liquid steel, but the sugar ate it and they came loose.


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## beemandan (Dec 5, 2005)

dixieswife said:


> Is it preventable?


I never figured out any way to stop it. Doesn't happen every day. Mainly those days when the nighttime temps were a bit low followed by a sunny, warm day....and syrup jars have a pocket of air on top. It sometimes led to robbing. But mostly it was just some wasted syrup...not a huge deal. 



Groundhwg said:


> can you use a "baggie" type feeder with a five frame nuc?


I'm not sure what sort of baggie type feeder you are referring to. Could you put a baggie on the top bars of the nuc? I haven't tried it myself but can't see why not. You couldn't use a gallon baggie...it would have to be much smaller.


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

I'd expect syrup stored in a brass container to taste like...brass. it seems like a step towards making the bees consume something that you probably don't intend.

I like the idea of the straw reaching into the cluster, but I can imagine some circumstances where it could act as a rather large heatsink from the cluster.


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## CrMax (Aug 23, 2015)

The tubing would be copper, we all drink out of copper and brass every day. The problem with brass is it contains lead, very little and will leach with strong chemicals (alcohol) bing one. Just make sure to use lead free solder when making them.


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## sc-bee (May 10, 2005)

The brass thing looks complicated to me, when you can punch a few holes with a frame nail


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

A good nuc will propolis the leaks. Or just use a frame feeder.


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## dixieswife (Apr 15, 2013)

> I'm not sure what sort of baggie type feeder you are referring to. Could you put a baggie on the top bars of the nuc? I haven't tried it myself but can't see why not. You couldn't use a gallon baggie...it would have to be much smaller.


We've used quart baggies and a shim to raise the lid up high enough so the bees have space to get up on the baggie.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

Put something over it to keep the sun off it. Will help with leakage.


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