# Glues



## peggjam (Mar 4, 2005)

Nope, no problem with your logic. Although different glues work better for different things. Gorilla glue works really well for frames, where there is alot of stress, but I wouldn't use it for boxes because it's just too expensive. Instead of elmers I would use titebond, as it seems to be a better "cheap" glue, and works good on boxes and other hive parts.


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## drobbins (Jun 1, 2005)

I read somewhere in here that gorilla glue is somewhat photo-reactive and would degrade when used on boxes where it's exposed to the sun
I don't know this for sure
just passing on an internet myth  

Dave


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

I agree with PJ. I use Gorilla 
glue on frames. And now I do not
use glue on boxs at all. I air
nail them together and screw
the corners (pre-drill and counter
sink).

Ever try to repair a glued box??


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## Branman (Aug 20, 2003)

I suppose my question is -

Is gorilla glue really worth the money for use even on frames since both glues bond harder than the wood itself and the carpenter's glue is 1/10th the cost? I know there is the expansion factor with gorilla glue which probably helps the overall bond area, but also you have to moisten the wood beforehand which is a pain.


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## peggjam (Mar 4, 2005)

Most of the frame manufactors recommand soaking the ends of the frames in water before assimbly to prevent splitting. Yes I think gorilla glue is worth the extra money. You use less, and it holds better. When you pull a frame and it doesn't fall apart it will be worth it, trust me.


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## peggjam (Mar 4, 2005)

Darn double posts, first it takes all day, and then it posts twice  .

[ June 29, 2006, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: peggjam ]


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

How many frames are you building??
Hundreds? Thousands?

Like PJ, I dip my frame parts to
be glued into water. With urethane
glues this activates it.

A small bottle of Gorilla glue will
set you back $10.00 and do hundreds
of frames.

I have left wood frames in the dust
and use Pierco, and now HoneySuper
Cell. I got Pierco a $1.10 for a deep 
frame with foundation, wood even 
costs more, not to mention hours
saved messing with wood.


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## Branman (Aug 20, 2003)

I previously used gorilla glue or the elmers polyurethane glue for everything, but this last batch of frames and equip I used just carpenter's glue...I hope stuff doesn't start falling apart on me


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## peggjam (Mar 4, 2005)

"I used just carpenter's glue...I hope stuff doesn't start falling apart on me"

It won't, it just might not hold up as long, as in years down the road.LOL


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

The Elmers urethane glue failed
on my strawberry pyrimid in less
than one year.


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## peggjam (Mar 4, 2005)

Bruce

That's why I switched to titebond.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

I bought generic gorrilla glue for a fraction of the cost.


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## Branman (Aug 20, 2003)

Oliver, is that the elmer's brand polyurethane?

It's got like blue bull on the front or something...

well, I guess I'm convinced...I've got a bunch of gorilla left, so I'll finish off the frames with that


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I use the exterior wood glue. Titebond or Elmers.


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## magnet-man (Jul 10, 2004)

UV light will break down urethane glue, but if you paint the outside of your boxes it is moot.

There is enough moisture in the air in Tulsa to set the glue. The only part of the frame that I do wet are the ends of the bottom bar and that is to prevent splitting. I fill a 5 gallon pail with 1/2 inch of water and put 10 bottom bars in for 1 minute and flip.

[ June 30, 2006, 04:32 PM: Message edited by: magnet-man ]


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## Big Ed (Jul 1, 2005)

I use Titebond III on most applications. It is waterproof and easy to work with. I have used Gorilla Glue on a few boxes when I needed gaps filled, but I find it messier and harder to work with, not to mention very expensive for the same strength. IMO.


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## honeyman46408 (Feb 14, 2003)

I use liquid Nails on boxes no glue on frames


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## virginiawolf (Feb 18, 2011)

I've used liquid nails on just about everything for a few years now but not relating to bee equipment.
I was assembling some candy boards and there were some not holes and other gaps in the wood so I filled the gaps with liquid nails.
It wasn't till after I built stuff that I read it has formaldehyde in it. Can this effect the bees or is it safe when it's dry?


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## schmism (Feb 7, 2009)

Titebond III is what i use. Better than plain elmers wood glue. not as expensive as gorilla.


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## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

You water the strawberries.


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## brac (Sep 30, 2009)

I thought I was reading a new thread, then I noticed posting from bee keepers past.

But I seem to do the opposite of what has been said, I use titebond on frames and gorilla on boxes. 2 points, I don't want a glue that expands and oozes on my frames, and my boxes are rabbit joint. I also air staple both, the boxes get a pretty large staple. But if you try to break a box, the tite bond can be broken, the gorilla is permanent.


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## Beeophyte (Oct 17, 2011)

I use Titebond II and it has worked okay so far. I also use it on some boatbuilding projects and I love it. Titebond III hasn't populated the shelves of the local stores yet but when it does I will buy a bottle!


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Although what glue you use is very important. It is not the entire issue. The glue may be stronger than the wood, but that does not mean the bond is. Bond is how well the glue is stuck to the wood itself. A weak bond means a weak joint so you might as well have used a cheap glue.

Wood glue itself needs to be able to expend and contract when the wood does. otherwise what bond it did have will be broken. This is mainly the difference between good and so so wood glue.

On the issue of getting a good bond. mainly keep in mind that tighter is not better in a glue joint. you must leave some room for the glue to be in the joint as well. Don't rush allow the joint to dry thoroughly. and follow the other things listed on the glue bottle, clean wood correct temps etc. The number one cause of weak glue joints is a joint that is starved of glue. otherwise you are good to go with any of the glues mentioned in this thread. Gorilla glue will expand and actually penetrate the wood more helping with the starved joint issue.


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

I use titebond II on frames and titebond III on boxes. But what was said above is true, you need to not stress the glue joint for at least 24 hours after its set, its all on the side of the bottle. Gorilla glue is great but I personally don't like how much it expands out of the joint.


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

I'm using Titebond III on everything...frames, boxes, and everything else...hope I ain't messin' up! 

Ed


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

I started using titebond II on everything and moved to titebond III. Even though I paint the boxes I wanted a waterproof glue to use on them specifically. I'm using up the last of the titebond II on the frames since they are inside the hive. Honestly, titebond II was more than sufficient for use on hive bodies especially if they are painted.


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## BigGun (Oct 27, 2011)

Anyone ever try Cyanoacrylate glues? Like a super glue.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

I use Cyanoacrylate (CA or Super glue) for a lot of things. One is a finish on my pens. It polishes up like a sheet of glass and is very tough. I buy it by the quart. It would make a very poor choice for anything exposed to the weather. It does have some flexibility but not enough. You could try rubberized CA. I know of one source for rubberized CA glue at a great price (relative to CA) as well as other CA Glues. I started this program years ago before turning it over to the person that currently runs it. You may have to e-mail Monty about the rubberized though. really wonderful person.
http://woodenwonderstx.com/ZC_Woode...Path=1&zenid=a1b91ab2a5d5ba92eda28ca0c83b4a33


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## The Honey Girl's Boy (Jul 26, 2009)

Ed, 
I use Titebond III on everything, inside and out, have awhile. I build almost all the woodware equipment I use and the equipment that I sell, (and give away). Use it on Lang, Top Bar, Warre hives, without any problem from anyone.
Ernie


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

Daniel Y said:


> I use Cyanoacrylate (CA or Super glue) for a lot of things. One is a finish on my pens. It polishes up like a sheet of glass and is very tough. I buy it by the quart. It would make a very poor choice for anything exposed to the weather. It does have some flexibility but not enough. You could try rubberized CA. I know of one source for rubberized CA glue at a great price (relative to CA) as well as other CA Glues. I started this program years ago before turning it over to the person that currently runs it. You may have to e-mail Monty about the rubberized though. really wonderful person.
> http://woodenwonderstx.com/ZC_Woode...Path=1&zenid=a1b91ab2a5d5ba92eda28ca0c83b4a33


Be aware, though, that CA is rather nasty to work with (as in health issues). When it kicks off it gives off a gas that you can see as a sudden puff of "smoke". It can also cause flu-like symptoms. This is from CA of a few years ago...I haven't worked with it nor read up on it in several years so it may be more user friendly/healthy by now. Not to mention the instant gluing of flesh. I'm sticking with Titebonds and similar. 

Just saying...

Ed


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

Thanks for the reply HGB. It seems to be working well for now. I've used wood glues for building RC airplanes in the past (also used the CA glues, too) and the wood glues held up quiet well then...and mostly it was basic Elmer's wood glue...not a Titebond level of glue. I'm staying the course... 

Ed


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