# Introduction and Stop me before I make sawdust



## Daddy'sBees (Jul 1, 2010)

Howdy Matt. Welcome to the lovely world of beekeeping!!! And good luck with your efforts. I found this design to be the most common of KTBH (many have based their hive after this design) and works really well, as is very easy to build. It has all of the dimensions you will need. http://www.lulu.com/product/ebook/how-to-build-a-top-bar-hive/15321150

Have a good one!!!


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Matt Gwinn said:


> My primary concern is about the bar design. Is the guide I'm milling in sufficient, or should I just cut a slot, or a more pronounce guide. Also, how thick should the bar be? I have it at 3/4" now.


I suggest you review Michael Bush's info on top bars. 
http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm
I think your hive design is OK, but consider his suggestions on using a bevel comb guide. 3/4" thickness is fine.


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## Matt Gwinn (Mar 9, 2012)

Thank you guys.

Graham, I had seen that site in my early research but had forgotten about it. Need to start collecting links more carefully.

I just ordered 6lbs of bees! April 21st delivery. Can't wait!


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>My primary concern is about the bar design. Is the guide I'm milling in sufficient, or should I just cut a slot, or a more pronounce guide. 

I can't see actual measurments. But if you have an edge in the middle of the bar that protrudes at least 1/4" (more wouldn't hurt) then it will probably do fine.

>Also, how thick should the bar be? I have it at 3/4" now.

It doesn't matter. I'd go at least 3/8" as it will sag too much otherwise. You could go 1 1/2" (I have when I had a lot of scrap) and it won't matter.

>My intent is to install the bottom board so that it can be slid out from the end (not shown well in the design drawing - once I figure that out I'll change the drawing). This way if I need to add ventilation I can swap out the bottom board but have a more insulating board for wintering over.

More exposed area does not help ventilation. It makes it impossible for them to cool it. Huber determined that more entrances made it more difficult for the bees to ventilate... The brood nest needs to be 93 F. When it's 110 F out the only way to accomplish that is to COOL the air in the hive lower than the air outside. The bees can only do this if they can CONTROL the ventilation.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm#ventilation

I would make a solid bottom and nail it on.


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## Matt Gwinn (Mar 9, 2012)

well, I don't know if it's an omen or not, but while out in the garage building my hives I saw my first bees of the season! They came in the open doors and spent a long time sniffing around my pile of saw dust. 

I have cut everything except the bars. The sides and ends for the first hive have been glued. They will get a quick final trim before assembly (hopefully this evening) while the second set are setting up.

Anyone else from North Central MA or SW New Hampshire?


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## Matt Gwinn (Mar 9, 2012)

the first box nearly complete:


My first TBH (Top Bar Hive) by MCG photo, on Flickr


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## jim314 (Feb 12, 2011)

Looks good Matt


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## Terra Vita (Mar 4, 2012)

great job, gotta love the smell of wood in the garage when your building huh? 

Tommy
Terra Vita


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## Matt Gwinn (Mar 9, 2012)

some more pics of progress:


IMG_6191 by MCG photo, on Flickr


IMG_6190 by MCG photo, on Flickr


IMG_6189 by MCG photo, on Flickr


IMG_6188 by MCG photo, on Flickr
Legs are just tacked on temporarily. They will get lagged.

Need some advice on where to cut the entrance and how big?

Thanks,
Matt


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## Baldursson (Nov 22, 2011)

what kind of top are you going to have? The reason I ask is because I am just about done with mine and I am not cutting any entrances. I am going to use a couple nails/screws 1/2 from on end and anchor them onto my sides. I will leave them with about 3/4 inch exposed to hold the top up providing a slight slope for runoff. The bees will have a top entrance 1/2 wide and as long as the width of the hive


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## Matt Gwinn (Mar 9, 2012)

well, I'm debating the point of how to make the top. The practical part of me says to make it flat with a rim that comes down the sides with a fair bit of slop around the perimeter. The rim will be deep enough to accommodate a 1" thick piece of foam insulation for winter and still keep the water out, so about 3" (new england is a bit colder than where you are).

The "make it nice to look at" part of me (aka my wife) would like a fancy peaked roof. It's more complex, bulkier and heavier. And I'm worried that it will provide a place for bees to nest up in "the attic" - so I'm concerned about a proper top entrance like you are planning and that makes me lean toward drilling a few 1" holes in the end, but covered by the overhand of the roof. Michael Bush seems to dislike the drilled holes (and the complexity of the attic if I read him right).


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