# Wax Moth Problem



## WilliamsHoneyBees (Feb 17, 2010)

Reduce the entrance.


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## Razz (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks, but I initially tried that to prevent this situation from ever occurring in the first place. However, the wax moths seemed to enjoy the small corners of the wood spacers that I was using. I found a whole lot of wax moth eggs there. I took out the reducers and have had a lease a little less trouble. Any other tricks?? Someone mentioned something about using a screened bottom, but I'm not sure how that works. I'm also not sure why my banana in a 2 liter traps did not work. Any suggestions are welcome.


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

Take out unused frames and use a follower board to reduce the size of the box to the number of frames the bees can cover. You can slide the follower board outwards to add a frame or two at a time as needed, such as when the currently used frames are full of sealed brood ready to emerge. If you are feeding pollen patty or substitute, beware it can cause an increase of wax moths as that's what they are after is the protien in the pollen and pupa casings in the wax.


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## spieker (Jun 26, 2009)

> I'm also not sure why my banana in a 2 liter traps did not work. Any suggestions are welcome.


Did you add sugar to your traps? I get a lot of moths, hornets and some yellow jackets in my traps.


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## johng (Nov 24, 2009)

I think Ray is giving you some good advice. Try to keep the hive the bees are in just big enough for them to fit into. You can do this by keeping them in nucs or using follower boards so they don't have so much room to protect. Don't add supers to fast once the flow is over get the supers off so they are not so spread out. This of course is a lot more work but, if you are having that much trouble with moths this should help.


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## Razz (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks, I will try the follower board. I was thinking of doing something like that anyway. I do add sugar to the banana, vinegar, water in a 2 liter bottle mix, so I still don't know what I am doing wrong there. I have been using 1 cup sugar, one banana, one cup water, and one cup of white vinegar.


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## Walliebee (Nov 17, 2006)

Is there a reason you do not want to use B.t. Aizawai? It's natural (certified for organic use), easy to use, and very effective.

Plus you can get it 'free' right now here:

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251378


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## Razz (Sep 14, 2010)

I have never heard of it. I'm a newbee so to speak. How does it work? Can you safely use it around the hives?? With the supers on??? Anyone????

Thanks.


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

Try this thread.


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## Razz (Sep 14, 2010)

Okay, I saw the specs, but specifically to control wax moths around bee hives, how do you use it???? Also, is it safe??????????? Safe how close to the hives?????? Safe with the supers on??????

I'm new, so please just humor me.


Thanks much.


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## Walliebee (Nov 17, 2006)

Razz said:


> ...specifically to control wax moths around bee hives, how do you use it????.


Yes, to control wax moth * inside* bee hives on the wax or in supers being stored. You mix the powder with clean water at the proper rate, and you spray it on the wax of empty supers or new foundation before you put it on the hive. You also treat the supers after honey extration before you put them into storage.


Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) is a Gram-positive, soil-dwelling bacterium, commonly used as a biological alternative to a pesticide. the Cry toxin may be extracted and used as a pesticide. This is the active compound in Agree WG. Bt Cry and Cyt toxins belong to a class of bacterial toxins known as pore-forming toxins (PFT) that are secreted as water soluble proteins. These proteins undergo changes in order to insert into or translocate across cell membranes of their host. The newly formed crystal inclusions ingested by susceptible larvae (wax worm) dissolve in the alkaline environment of the gut. Cry proteins pass from crystal inclusion protoxins into membrane-inserted oligomers that cause fluid leakage and cell death. This happens to the wax worm while it is very small before it has time to do any damage to the wax.

It is very safe to bees and all stages of bee larva. It is very deadly to wax worm larva.


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## summer1052 (Oct 21, 2007)

Razz, my climate here in south Texas is a bit closer to yours. WM are a big problem here, too. They just never go dormant.

Do NOT use a SBB. The moths can crawl right in through the screen.

Bt powder MIGHT help. However, for whatever reason, my BEES hate it. If I spray a frame with Bt, the bees quit working it, period. I don't know why. But some people have great results with it. Go figure.

Smaller entrances, wood bottom boards and diligence help me. Don't ignore problems. If you see signs of even a few moths, freeze the effected frames. Fire ants will help clean up the frames, too. I have yet to see a hive strong enough to completely banish WM. It seems to be more of a threshold question. I am considering a few guinea hens for general pest reduction as well.

Good luck!

Summer


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## Razz (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks to everyone for your input. I am going to implement follower boards in some the problem hives. Because I want to stay away from any chemicals I have decided to try and use Cedar wood Oil. From everything that I have read, moths hate the stuff, but bees are good with it. It is also good to control termites and ants. I have to ask why no one has said anything about this natural solution that has been around for a long time? Seriously, is there something I’m missing here?? Any suggestions on how to apply the stuff??? I bought “Texas Cedarwood oil” from the same natural food store where I get my lemongrass oil. I have also already cut the boards for my next 30 boxes; you guessed it, Cedar. I even saved the saw dust to sprinkle around the problem hives. I’ll let you all know how it goes.


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## summer1052 (Oct 21, 2007)

I used essential cedarwood oil with stored frames and supers over winter this year. I stacked equipment about 4 deep, with a paper plate in the middle, and a piece of paper towel sprinkled with the oil on it.

It worked at least as well as the moth crystals, and has to be at least a bit healthier.

I have not tried it INSIDE a hive, so PLEASE keep us updated on your results!

I can tell you anecdotally that cedar trees with a freshly trimmed limb (thus releasing oils and scent) are often a favorite during swarm season. I don't know why.

Keep us updated!
Summer


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## Razz (Sep 14, 2010)

Just an update. Follower boards, cedar oil, and the old two liter wax moth bottle trap did not work so well. What does seem to help significantly is a screened bottom board. Got the idea from this site. I am also planning on implementing free range chickens because I think that (with the sbb) will practically eliminate my wax moth problems once and for all!!! I plan to make a 25 x 25 foot coop to house about a dozen American chickens and one rooster. I also plan to use a timer feeding devise, initially set to feed once per day (for the first 3 months while the chickens are getting used to their new location in the coop). I then plan to set it to feed only once a day to encourage the chickens to forage for wax moths and any other little creatures they can find. Anyone know if they will eat ants? Any suggestions on the free range chickens??? Thanks all!


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I don't think they will eat ants. There is no need to cut back feed to encourage their natural foraging. It's what chickens do, whether you supply them feed or not. They can't help it. It is in their genes.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Razz said:


> I have to ask why no one has said anything about this natural solution that has been around for a long time? Seriously, is there something I’m missing here??


Perhaps because most people don't have a problem w/ wax moths that can't be handled by strong colonies? Why aren't your colonies strong enuf to keep the moths at bay?


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## Razz (Sep 14, 2010)

Well, living in a warm climate (Puerto Rico) the wax moths are abundant. Also, the africanized bees here swarm frequently leaving the hive in a weakened state. Other reasons for weak hives: new swarm brought in / new hive split / etc.


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