# When is the right time to start a new observation hive



## rg58612455 (Jun 15, 2015)

Let me start by saying I am no expert. I have had my observation hive for 10 months. They came through winter fine. A few things that I have discovered are that I cannot get a queen to mate out of the ob. hive.(unsuccessful twice) I don't know if the clear vinyl tubing confuses her or the 14 inch length is an issue. I would suggest waiting until you can get a mated queen to start the ob. hive with. The other things are a sugar water feeder and some way to stuff pollen sub. into the ob. hive. My bees used about a quart every 3 weeks, of 1:1 sugar water, through this winter. And about a teaspoon a week of pollen sub. this spring. My ob. hive is 2 deeps and a medium frame. Just my experiences so far. And let me say , the best thing I have done with bees is put them in the house with me. I sit and watch them a lot. Hope this helps.
Ralph


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## jdmidwest (Jul 9, 2012)

Never. Its a dwindling down thing like a bunch of mites attacking a colony. Beehives crave darkness. And extra space to grow. And warmth. Observation hives lack most of those features.


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

I've had one for 5 years now. The main question I've got is how much experience do you have with beekeeping? OB hives require more intervention that regular hives and they're harder to work on. It's a very nasty teacher if you have experience. If you're new, it's downright brutal. RG is right in that it's harder to get a queen properly mated, or at least that's what I've found as well. Ironically I found 3 active swarm cells in the hive today when I reviewed it. I'll be getting into the hive shortly.

To start one up I'd recommend doing so in the Spring once swarms start. What I did was capture a swarm and put them in a 5 frame nuc. Once the queen proved herself I put her and the hive in the OB Hive. My hive is a 5 frame Deep (Dadant) so in the whole hive went. You'll have to watch for overcrowding and steal frames of brood and workers when you see it. Experience will tell you when that's happening. Even with experience and brood reduction they'll swarm. When winter approaches you'll need to feed, feed, feed to make sure they've got enough food. Additionally you'll need to take care to keep the queen laying as long as you can (syrup will do this) to ensure there's a good young population to make warmth and survive the winter.

An OB hive can be done and done well if you stay on them. Don't be discouraged but make sure you've got a couple years under your belt before doing it. It's a roller coaster once it starts.


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## ollie (Jan 2, 2016)

Thanks for all your advice and information. Ill take this on board. Ill get myself a mated queen first as you say.
I know they are hard work but have been told this is a good way to learn what bees doo in the hive and gives you an idea of what 'might' be happening in the hives outside.

I think you learn from everything you do, right or wrong, but obviously learning is what its all about in the process of getting it 'right' for the bees and the environment they live in.

I suppose the first thing is to get my hive numbers up and I want to increase to 4/6 hives this year, so with the advice given I might wait another year yet before putting bees into my O/H.

Thanks again for your advice, I appreciate it.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

The outcome of everything you do in a full size colony is exaggerated in a small colony such as an observation hive. Still you can learn so much. You will just need to intervene more often. If you let them raise their own queen, that is an education in itself. But it may dwindle a lot during the process. So boost them with some more bees. I highly recommend any beginner get an observation hive. You'll kill hives in you life, but you'll learn a thousand times more killing an observation hive than any of the ones out in your yard. You will see day to day what is happening.


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## ollie (Jan 2, 2016)

Michael Bush said:


> The outcome of everything you do in a full size colony is exaggerated in a small colony such as an observation hive. Still you can learn so much. You will just need to intervene more often. If you let them raise their own queen, that is an education in itself. But it may dwindle a lot during the process. So boost them with some more bees. I highly recommend any beginner get an observation hive. You'll kill hives in you life, but you'll learn a thousand times more killing an observation hive than any of the ones out in your yard. You will see day to day what is happening.



Thank you Michael. It was because of you I built it in the first place, as I remember you saying how much you can learn from them. From listening to your talks on YouTube I learnt a lot, but as we all know.... 'hands on' is the best. Your reply has encouraged me even more with determination , don't be surprised if you get an email with loads of Q's.. 

Thanks again for everyones input and advice.


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## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

jdmidwest said:


> Never. Its a dwindling down thing like a bunch of mites attacking a colony. Beehives crave darkness. And extra space to grow. And warmth. Observation hives lack most of those features.


First let me say this statement is BULL! I have 8 Observation hives in different locations they are each 8 deep frames 4 up that function as any hive. I have to split them twice a year (or allow them to swarm) but they make their own queens, which go out to be bred with the same success as any other hive. I have no problems with hive beetles in them, and no wax moth problems. The gather and store nectar and pollen as any hive. they always have ample stores to overwinter, and the beauty is I know when they need fed. In the 17 years I have had Observation hives I have never had one not overwinter. Never had a colony in one abscond, or completely die out for any reason. 

A spring start is always good in that way you can watch the progress and be sure they are properly prepared for winter. If you do not want to loose bees you will have to split when the bees get crowded. Split management needs to take into account proximity to winter so you can allow for build up, or leave enough bees to overwinter.


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