# Hobby Beekeeper and Building Your Own Equipment



## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

I'm wondering MDS, how did you come to the conclusion that it makes no sense to make your supers or hive bodies when you can get them for free shipping?

I can make a medium box for $5. And that's at retail Lowe's prices (which are a rip off). I can make two for the same price as the cheapest medium box I've been able to find, and that's even with free shipping. Two for the price of one, well worth the effort in my opinion.

Now, frames I buy. That's a different story.

I also don't use telescoping tops. When you can buy a tele for $20, and I can make a migratory for $5 each, even if the migratory lasts 1/3rd as long as the tele, I still win in the end.


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## BiG T (Oct 25, 2010)

I build all my bottom boards and Hive Bodies and Supers..I use the rabbet joint works out great and I can build usually two for the price of one that i can buy from a dealer..


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

> I'm not going to attempt to build any feeders.


Miller style feeders were the first thing I built... I use the ones with the single end screened off.


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## tedw200 (Mar 4, 2009)

I have a wood shop of my own and I build everything myself, including frames.
This week I'm having custom foundation shipped in from Europe. I'm building 2 custom extra deeps in a special size so we can see if they will be cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. In the winter I will be taking one of the hives to central Michigan on a farm so that we can compare the inner temperature of the colony. If this works out good and they will overwinter with less stress we will be producing on a large scale so that U.S. beekeepers don't spend their hard earned money on new bees each year. Inner temperature will be monitored day and night. I and many of you have lost too many bee colonies and would like to find a way to keep them alive year after year, re-queening will be as needed.
So if any of you have the ability to build your own hive parts, congratulations.
It is a lot of fun later looking at the hives and thinking "Yes I built this"
Good luck and have fun !


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## MDS (Jan 9, 2011)

I'm wondering MDS, how did you come to the conclusion that it makes no sense to make your supers or hive bodies when you can get them for free shipping?



Simply looked at the price for 8x or 12 x pine at what I was paying at home depo and compared that against what I could order. At my scale (with eight hives) I like the idea of having a telescoping cover because there is a slot in it and the inner cover for a top entrance or ventalation. 

Also, the reason I have not messed with top feeders is I'm concernerd about leakage. 

I also did not want to add a bunch of wood working equipment beyond a chop saw and table saw. I'm a hobby beekeeper and like most hobbies they cost money to enjoy. The wood working part was a bonus!


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

If you are rocking a chop saw and a table saw, you've got one on me! I'm only going with a table saw, but I still manage.

A 1"x8" is going for about $11.93: http://www.homedepot.com/Lumber-Com...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I use mediums, so a 1"x8" will work. 

If you go with a 12' board, that means you can get 2 medium 10 frame boxes out of one $11.93 board. That runs you $5.97 plus tax each. When Mann Lake's Budget boxes are going for $8.95 each, I still don't understand how you come to the conclusion that it's cheaper to buy them. That's a savings of $3 each, even with free shipping, and you get better than budget boxes when you make them yourself. It's more equivalent to getting their select box (which costs $12.50, or a savings of $6.53 each box, or well over twice the price), especially since you can hand pick out the wood. You don't get that opportunity when you buy online and get free shipping.

Even if you don't count free shipping into it, the cheapest I've seen boxes go for is about $6 each. Those budget places don't offer free shipping either, which means you are STILL paying more than making it yourself, and you STILL end up getting a budget box for more than you can make a select box.

Now, I understand if you think it isn't worth the time and work for 4 boxes, or something like that, but you are just saying it's cheaper. I don't follow your logic.

Likewise, I don't have that many boxes, but the savings is well worth it.


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## RiodeLobo (Oct 11, 2010)

Specialkayme well said. 

I build mine as well. It has a little to do with the cost, but mostly because i like doing it. As i price it out you are looking at 40-50% savings. 

dan


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## kbenz (Feb 17, 2010)

I get rough sawn 1x8's, cost me bout $2 a med. gotta plane them though. migratory tops are cheap to make. top entrance. solid bottom board. makin my own frames for now also. all cheap


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Don't forget Craigslist. Patrol it regularly if you live near a big city and you'll find people virtually giving away lumber. A guy sold me about 45, or was it 47?, pine 1 by 12 boards for $50. They weren't perfect, he had stored them in a damp shed, and there was wastage. I just finished gluing up the last of the boxes. I made 17 deeps and 15 deep nuc's. Now, admittedly, if I had put the time into overtime or extra shifts at work it would have been a wash cost-wise, but in the long cold northern winter I can't do anything with the bees so making the boxes is bee related enough to keep me happy. The problem is I can't do that every winter - I don't think I'll ever need to buy/build another deep.


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## hipifreq (Sep 9, 2010)

tedw200 said:


> It is a lot of fun later looking at the hives and thinking "Yes I built this"


That's my main reason for building my own equipment. I'm just starting out, and I'd like to know that I built everything, including the frames.

I'd also agree that getting the lumber at the big-box stores (Lowe's, HD, etc.) and cutting them yourself is still cheaper and better quality than buying them pre-made. Especially so if your local lumber yard has better prices, and they usually do. I've also got a used building supplies store in town here, and stopping there once or twice a week usually helps keep my wood shop stocked with enough supplies.

Now where I think you've really got a good point MDS is in the finger joints. I'd have to say that having built both finger joint boxes and rabbet joints, the finger joints are MUCH easier to put together square than rabbet joints. They practically square themselves!

And why use metal roofs? If you're going telescoping cover (and assuming you're moving them around to pollinate) why not gable slightly and use beveled cedar siding? No metal-bending, and the water runs right off.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Although cost is an issue I enjoy my time in the shop. You add your time into the game and it is all one sided from there. I found the best price was for 8’ 1x12 appearance pine for under $12 at the local plywood store. I cut in a dato on the end and put in a piece of T1-11 siding. That way when I cut it apart I had a Candy board / inner cover (3/8” one side ¾” the other). Final tally for the two boards and half sheet of plywood was: two hives, Two candy boards, two telescoping covers. The board checked on me on one end and I lost it so ended up using some scrap cedar for the second telescoping cover end. I did not use metal. I will see if I can attach a photo. I went a little overboard, fingers, glue, nails, and screws on the ends! Hand holds with the dato (they did not all line up)
Unable to upload the link or the photo, I will do some homework on this.


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## WilliamsHoneyBees (Feb 17, 2010)

Menards 1x12x12 which makes two deeps I just payed 10.79 plus tax. They had a sale going on with 11% off everything in the store. $9.61 for two deep boxes.  oh yeah plus tax. $10.28. I can make mediums for around 3 bucks. I always buy some when they have lumber on sale!


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## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

I wish I had more time as I find making my own boxes, tops and bottoms very relaxing and therapeutic.

I scrounge around the business that install those huge lighted signs for stores, agricultural implement dealers and the restuarant supply stores. They have packing crates of 1x..." lumber that is often better than the stuff they sell at Lowes.

I'm getting a pretty good supply of scrap lumber in the garage and my wife thinks it's taking up too much room. Rabbeted joints are easy to make and since most of my hives stay in one place, I don't need the finger joints.

But to each their own.

Grant
Jackson, MO


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## WilliamsHoneyBees (Feb 17, 2010)

Grant, If you get too much lumber in your garage and you can load my truck and trailer down let me know. I'll make the trip!


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## a+blessed+life (Feb 16, 2011)

Has anyone ever put the boxes together with a Kreg jig? I have one and I love it! It makes a tight joint. My husband and I are going to try some deeps and mediums with this joint. Free wood, we have a sawmill. Wish some one lived close enough to get all the pieces before my husband tosses them.


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## AmericasBeekeeper (Jan 24, 2010)

I can make a cypress super cheaper than I can buy a pine anywhere. Better yet, I have not found 1 inch cypress hives from other suppliers yet. I can make them for $0.99 a foot.


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## NY_BLUES (May 14, 2009)

I went to the lumber store today, spent 162.50, and I got enought lumber for 6 deeps, 12 mediums, and 12 medium nucs. I also got 2 boxes of nails and glue.... oh and it cost me about 3 dollars in gas....Try getting that many boxes for that price at any supplier


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Here is what I was attempting to post earlier. “webmaster help” explained that I can just do a link in the text so let’s give it a try. Since the dimensional lumber was too large I was attempting to max yield. I finger the entire board and cut off the material in the end (not the beginning). If Blues has a unique cut plan please post it.
https://picasaweb.google.com/114228647963180645103/2011_0119?authkey=Gv1sRgCJO9jonljuHP0AE#


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## NY_BLUES (May 14, 2009)

minz said:


> If Blues has a unique cut plan please post it.



I have 8 frame equipment, so my plan only applies to 8 frame, as the 2 extra frames add in more lumber.
For deeps, I buy a 1"x12"x12' and have it cut into 2 6' pieces at the lumber yard. I then rip them to 9 1/2". Cutting 2 19" side pieces, and 2 13 3/4' ends, using a rabbet joint, my total scrap is 7-8" for a 12' board, resulting in 2 deep boxes.

For mediums I use a 1"x8"x12' and have it cut to 6'. Ripping them to 6 5/8", I use the same cut pattern as deeps and get 2 mediums.

For nucs, I get a 1"x8"x10' and have it cut to 5'. Cutting 2 sides at 19" and 2 ends at 7 1/4", I have a total of 2 5 frame nucs, and a 2 extra ends out of a 10' piece.

I run medium nucs, but the same cut pattern would work for deep nucs if you use 12'" lumber.


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## MDS (Jan 9, 2011)

Thanks for the link on the Kreg jig. Yet another idea for joints. I guess I need to do a little shopping around for my 1x8 and 1x12's in order to cost justify the expense of building my own boxes. 

All things considered, I can spend a lot of time on building my own equipment and have to say I really enjoy it. Painted everything I built over the winter and sat back with a big smile on my face, even if I spent too much on the lumber for the boxes.

I'm going to start searching discount places for lumber.


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

Do a Google or Yahoo Local search for sawmills... might pay you to drive 30-50 miles one way to get a load of lumber. I found just such a place, kiln-dried, surfaced three sides, and even with gas much, much cheaper than local big box or lumber yards. Have to be willing to accept more knots, but so what? they're tight, I cover them on the outside with primer and paint, and the bees seal them on the inside with propolis.
Regards,
Steven


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

MDS said:


> ... I need to do a little shopping around for my 1x8 and 1x12's in order to cost justify the expense of building my own boxes....
> I'm going to start searching discount places for lumber.


Disclaimer, your results may vary. At four local "real" lumberyards, kiln dried, dressed, and milled yellow pine, (grade c & better) goes for an average retail price of 81¢ per board foot. This makes a 1''x8'' eight foot long board $4.32 (plus tax) and a 1''x8'' by 12 foot long board $6.48. By using a thin kerf saw blade and rabbet joints, four 8-foot boards will make five 10 frame medium suppers @ $3.45 each. With a thin kerf saw blade and rabbet joints; and by using four 8-foot boards for the sides and two 12-foot boards for the ends you can make ten 8 frame hive bodies or suppers (20 sides and 20 ends). This is only a little over $3.00 each for medium 8 frame boxes and $4.25 for deep 8 frame boxes (excluding glue, nails, screws, staples or thumbs.) 

To figure my local price of 12'' (one foot wide) one-inch thick boards multiply the length of the board by 81¢. If priced by the board or stick, divide the price per stick by the length of the board. Most of the 1x8s and 1x12s at these 4 lumberyards looked at least as pretty as the best quality bee supply house suppers. Be wary of any store that only prices lumber by the stick and not by the board foot. It makes it hard to compare prices.

Late Last year at the lumberyard I ran into a bee club member who works at a home improvement store. The big box retailer employee was buying lumber for bee boxes. I am sure he gets an employee discount where he works but he said he could buy better lumber and cheaper too where housing contractors shop, at a lumber yard. I'll let that speak for itself.

Remember, you can’t roller-skate in a buffalo herd, and you cannot make a deep 9 5/8 or 9.625 inch tall supper from a 10-inch wide board. :no: 1x10s are only 9 ¼ (9.250) inches wide.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Scrapfe said:


> Disclaimer, your results may vary. At four local "real" lumberyards, kiln dried, dressed, and milled yellow pine, (grade c & better) goes for an average retail price of 81¢ per board foot.


And if you're lucky enough to live in an area where there is an active saw mill, pine boards are way cheaper than that. In VT and NH, I can buy industrial grade or planer shorts for $.20/board foot.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

Normally, I haunt the big box stores for odds and ends until I have enough stock to build a few boxes. I use a box joint jig and it works perfectly for me. The plans are the ones on this site. Building bee stuff is relaxing so I take my time. In the winter, I go out and turn the heat on in the shop, come back inside and make coffee and when things are warmed up, I go cut wood or assemble for an hour or two. It's usually pretty early so by the time everyone else in the house is up, I'm done. If I do this from time to time all winter, I have enough new equipment to get me going again in the spring. 

Of course, the age old argument is whether I need the equipment or not but that's between me and my wife!

I used a Kreg jig for some nucs last year. No real reason, just decided to give it a try. I had been using the jig to tighten up all the railings on my old porch. They worked great for the bee boxes. I made a half dozen nucs and a few nuc "supers" for the fun of it. The joints were glued as well so they are very tight!


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## feltze (May 15, 2010)

Look up "portable sawmills" and links from Woodmizer, Baker and Cooks. You may find a local sawyer in your area and may get drops for a very inexpensive price. Rough Cut Green or air dried runs 50 cents a board foot. Spend an afternoon helping me at the saw and you might leave with more than you can use to build with.


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## samw446 (Feb 2, 2011)

This year, I have partnered with fellow bee keeper, who has all the wood working equipment. It has worked out great. We used a lot of odds and ends, he had in his shop. I also got with a local home builded and had him to add on a few boards, on an order, for the discount price. Part of the fun is being able to build quality bee keeping equipment, at a much reduced price.


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## slickbrightspear (Jan 9, 2009)

I go to the local amish sawmill and get 1x12x12 poplar for 5 bucks a peice out of that i can make a bottom a top and a super. or two supers. I do have to put it in the barn stickered and let it sit for about 8 months so I buy in march and build everything the next winter.


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## kbenz (Feb 17, 2010)

feltze said:


> Spend an afternoon helping me at the saw and you might leave with more than you can use to build with.


if you was closer I would take you up on that


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## WI-beek (Jul 14, 2009)

I dont remember what you call them but I call them duck bills. They are for bending aluminum facia on corners. They are ten or fifteen dollars and have two or three different size bills to attach to the pliers. They work great for bending sheet metal, or aluminum metal for top covers. Any roofing and siding supply outfit should know what you mean if you ask for them. I wish it was easier to describe or I new what they are really called.

I use aluminum valley flashing, set lid on it, draw with marker the shape of lid, cut metal about and inch and a half longer, then bend the lip over twice over it self. Its as good as professional and like two dollars a piece. 20 inch wide aluminum works perfect. Galvanized sheet metal would be better but more expensive.

If anyone want a pic of those duck bills I will get one for you. Will have to run to farm to take a pic though so might take a couple days.

I build mediums for two to three dollars a piece. You got to find short scrap pieces of lumber sold cheap which is all you need being 20 inches the longest needed for boxes.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

kbenz said:


> if you was closer I would take you up on that


It made me thing twice . . .


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## ptwat (May 1, 2008)

WI-beek said:


> If anyone want a pic of those duck bills I will get one for you. Will have to run to farm to take a pic though so might take a couple days.


A picture would be good. Do you cut an extra inch and half on each side or an extra inch and half in each total dimension?


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## slickbrightspear (Jan 9, 2009)

under hand tools harbor freight has a 6 inch sheet metal seamer that sounds like what he is describing. they also have a sheet metal bending tool that looked interesting.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

They're called hand seamers, or hand breaks.

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS7eMIB4iZcqVlbkzeOcDgn-UHoPaFcuyxXwrKfVq3M4i21GoVY


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## WI-beek (Jul 14, 2009)

Barry has it right. 

A box is 16 1/4 wide. I made my telescopes with 1/4 to 3/8 play so when you add two one bys (1.5 inches) and 16 1/4 and 1/4 you get 18 inches wide. If you get a 20 inch wide roll of aluminum roofing valley flashing and set the lid upside down on a piece of it you will have an inch to spare on each side. I use a one inch stick to make sure lid is centered and then cut the metal one inch longer than lid (each end so two inches). This leaves you an inch all the way around the lid. Take a marker and draw an out line of the lid leaving an inch of metal on all sides. Then cut a v out on all four corners so you can fold the metal. You will also need another stick to draw line half way between the inch mark and edge so you can fold a half inch over first then fold it again. This way you have a smooth edge on bottom that will not cut your fingers open when you take the lid off. You could just bend it over once and make sure you fasten it well so you will not cut by it. You may be better off with 22 inch metal so you can double fold an inch at a time.

The trick to folding the metal is to line the bills up with the line and slightly bend it starting from one end going to the other end. Then start over and bend a little more making sure you are lined up with your line so you get a strait bend. Once you get a bend going it is easy to finish it. I used to work my own flashing for chimneys this way so I have lots of experience with it and can bend up ten of them in half hour or so. Your first couple would probably take some time and be a little frustrating till you get a feel for it. I should probably make a video for you tube. The corners you will have to figure out. One has to bend around and the other has to be cut more or less strait. You will get a poky point on each corner tip that just needs a couple light wacks with a hammer to smooth it off.

They look really nice and no more worrying about painting them or them rotting out. I will be making some in a month or so and will take my cam with me if I remember and publish it so it does not seem so complicated.


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