# Want to Build TBH Have Question



## Butterchurn (Jan 13, 2005)

I'm really getting turned on by the TBH. I'm going to build one!

I don't quite understand how you keep the bees from attaching the combs to the side of the hive thus sealing the top bars to the side. I saw the construction of the top bar, but I'm still confused by it. Why don't the bees attach the combs to the side of the hive?

What do you need to do to configure the hive for over wintering?

It would seem to me that Succrocide might work for the mites in this arrangement, as needed.

Thanks.

Ron


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>I don't quite understand how you keep the bees from attaching the combs to the side of the hive thus sealing the top bars to the side. I saw the construction of the top bar, but I'm still confused by it. Why don't the bees attach the combs to the side of the hive?

Becuase they don't. At least not much at all. Once in a great while they put a little brace over to the side but hardly ever connect it solid.

>What do you need to do to configure the hive for over wintering?

I just left them with enough honey and let them take care of themselves. Both my TBH's have done well as have my other horizontal hives.

>It would seem to me that Succrocide might work for the mites in this arrangement, as needed.

Or Oxalic acid, or since it's natural comb, nothing at all.


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## MIKI (Aug 15, 2003)

The bees perceive the sloped sides to be the bottom and will not attach comb to the bottom of the hive, just little braces as Michael stated. It also helps if you center the queen cage when installing packages if it is off to one side they will start building comb on that side and the chances of brace comb are greater. 

I used a large chunk of fondant in the bottom of mine last fall and it was very obvious that they fed on it thru the winter, I think it helped them survive. I will definatly make this a regular practice. They only had about 8 to 10 frames of stores going in and it was a long wet winter here.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I haven't noticed any real difference in attachements with the TTBH (straight sides) or the KTBH (sloped sides).


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## Bryon (Mar 29, 2005)

I have a question about Top bar shape. I can seen many pictures of many differant top bars. most were flat bottom with some kind of center grove or attached piece of meterial. a few had angled bottoms. some shallow, at least one I saw had a shape angle that looked a bit steeper than 45 degrees. does nyone know witch top par design works best and witch ones not so good?


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## Cinnamon (Feb 1, 2004)

Not sure there is a best, or, it also is depending on what you feel is best, and what climate you're in and and and









I have 35mmx38mmx400mm sawn timber bars, and pres a little thin, long cut-off bees wax(2mmx30mm or so) in the middle as a "build here" sign. I only have the sides of the bars planed(easier to slide back this way), the bit they build on is left rough.

When I put a new bar in the middle of the nest (so they make another nice straight one) I don't put anything at all on it, the bees just build to beespace anyhow.

Cinnamon


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## MGBee (May 25, 2004)

We installed 4 packages in KTBH last weekend, 4-2. The hives were built with sides 30 degress off vertical, 9" deep, with bars 18" inside-- 19-1/2" outside , 1-1/4" wide top bars.

Feeders were built as follower/feeders to allow for minimizing inside space (5 bars) while the bees built up.

I checked the hives this weekend. What a sight to behold!!! Three beautiful straight combs in each hive built the full depth of the hives! Eggsign!

Question? When do you start feeding additional bars into the broodnest? How many at a time and at what location -- inside or outside the broodnest? I don't want to interupt hive activity any more than necessary. 

Thanks to you TBHivers out there for your posts on this board. You have taught me alot.

Regards,
Miles


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>does nyone know witch top par design works best and witch ones not so good? 

All the methods in common use work to some extent. All of them fail to some extent. When the bees want wider combs they will build them regardless of the comb guides.

I used just one bar with a starter strip waxed into a groove in the center and the rest with nothing in a five frame medium Langstroth box. I eventually moved them up into wider and wider boxes. But they continued to build down the center quite nicely.

My favorite that seems to be the most reliable method is the 45 degree beveled comb guide. I've seen them totally ignore a wax starter strip and build it over a 1/4" or more.

>When do you start feeding additional bars into the broodnest? How many at a time and at what location -- inside or outside the broodnest? I don't want to interupt hive activity any more than necessary. 

I wouldn't until the hive is very strong and they have started building honey storage (wider and full of honey) combs on the ends. Another good test is to take a bar out or make a gap and see how quickly the bees festoon the space in with bees. If there are plenty of bees festooning between you can probably add a bar there.

I try not top put more than two or three in the middle of a very strong brood nest. I would not try to put any in if there is a question about how strong the hive is. I try to leave at least two brood combs together and not have one by itself with an empty one on each side of it.


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## MGBee (May 25, 2004)

Thanks Michael.

You're correct in discerning that the bees have built on bars 2,3,4. Not much activity on bars 1 or 5. 

Festooning is an amazing sight in these hives. From the feeder/follower back to bar 4 and then multiple festoons between bars 2&3 and 3&4. Looks like a "bucket brigade" in there. 

I picked up the packages(3 lb.) at Brushy Mountain and they were quite strong with very few dead bees, but I was not expecting this degree of comb building within 1 week. 

Thanks again for your answers and insight.

Regards,
Miles


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## BWrangler (Aug 14, 2002)

Hi MGBee,

I'd leave the broodnest alone unless the comb needs to be corrected. Stand back and watch what happens as the bees do the best when the beekeeper does the least possible, especially in the broodnest. 

Regards
Dennis


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## MGBee (May 25, 2004)

Thanks Dennis and Michael.

You 2 guys and Scott have the most informative websites around and they have been a great help to me.

Hope to meet ya'll one day.

Miles


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