# Solid or Screened Bottom Board



## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

Is this a seasonal thing , solid for winter less cold air getting in and screened for summer more air flow , or other reasons .


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## signalten (Feb 27, 2011)

No, it is year round. I have both solid and screened bottom boards. Some SBB's are closed, some are open during the winter. In the summer they are always open. Which is better, solid or screened. Your guess is good as mine.


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## xcugat (Mar 4, 2008)

Solid


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

I make my own bottom boards, but they are similar to Country Rubes boards. 
http://store.countryrubes.com/screenedbottomboard-unfinished.aspx

There is a tray or stickyboard that fits under the screen. On my boards, that tray is sitting on a solid bottom. The only opening is where the tray can slide out, and I will generally have that opening blocked with a board.

So I have a screened bottom board, but it is not open to the exterior and not used for ventilation.


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## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

Don't understand wouldn't the screen let in way to much cold air in the winter and the solid would be way to hot in the summer.


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## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

laketrout said:


> Don't understand wouldn't the screen let in way to much cold air in the winter and the solid would be way to hot in the summer.


You would think, but it appears not. Vanelsdorp just published some info on hive survivibility, and it showed no staatisical differnces between screened and solids..... I personaly think there is a glitch in the data in that maybe not as many in the north use SBB. ( I don't know) I can tell you in my experince queens don't like to lay next to a SBB. I think its harder for the brood to maintain temp and humidity. but I have no data. I can tell you that mite counts are virtually the same in solid or screened in my yards. That said, I am weeding out the screens, but not in panic mode


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

The tray in my SBBs are slid in 90% in winter, just to keep out gusts. Open 10% for ventilation. I don't worry about the cold, only damp.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

All my new bottom boards will be solids .... more brood in a solid.


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## Andrew Dewey (Aug 23, 2005)

I think screened boards were something of a fad; from what I can observe use of them is falling off quickly.

They are part of an interesting IPM for Varroa Mites tool. The mites were supposed to fall off the bees, fall through the screens either onto a sticky board or the ground underneath the hive. The mites are not supposed to be able to get back on the bees. Sometimes they were used to test the efficacy of different mite treatments, the mites killed by whatever method du jour was being tested would fall to a sticky board and could be counted. Often times they were/are combined with powdered sugar dusting as a "natural" mite treatment.

I have several different types out in my garage, waiting to be given away or put on the burn pile. I won't use them again. I'm very close to the coast and get lots of fog here. Too much moisture was getting into the hives. So back to solid boards I go.

This is not to say that SBB don't work well in specific locations. Just not for me.


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## mrqb (Jul 17, 2011)

I have both and i wont be buying or making anymore screened. theres no screen in the bottom of a bee tree.just my 2 cents.


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

I am selling nucs this spring--so I am coming out in full favor of SBB's!!! Since I want to encourage brood myself. I am going to have as small an entrance as possible and do everything in my power to enable the bees to heat and enlarge their broodnest!


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## julysun (Apr 25, 2012)

So, in your case SBB means SOLID bottom boards? This always causes confusion for me.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

snl said:


> All my new bottom boards will be solids .... more brood in a solid.


I not only second this, but have gone from screened bottom boards to solid for my newly adapted mite treatment as well. In my new scheme of things, expanding my apiary that is, I am leaning more toward how sideliner and commercial guys are doing things, keeping it simple. 

From my beginning I used screened bottome boards, ventilated inner covers and various methods of feeding syrup. The next thing you know you have tons of stuff laying around that you don't need, and time building the stuff!! Not to mention materials!! 

Now I use frame feeders on the big hives, jar feeders on the nucs. Solid bottom boards on the nucs and solid bottom boards on the two hive pallets. I use modified top entrance migratory covers now as well that I made out of plywood and painted. 

Besides, unless you have hives on a hive stand that is protected from ants, a SBB is just another way for them to get in.

Im not against SBB, but I am seeing the difference between them and solid bottoms already. As for regulating air in the hive, the bees will take care of that problem as they have for millions of years, they are great at it!!


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Andrew Dewey said:


> I have several different types out in my garage, waiting to be given away or put on the burn pile. I won't use them again.


Ive got quite a few SBB sitting in my garage also, going to cut the wire out though as I can always use the stuff!! But all the wood is going into the burn pile! Need to make more room for more migratory covers!!


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

julysun said:


> So, in your case SBB means SOLID bottom boards? This always causes confusion for me.


I always though SBB stood for "Screened bottom boards" myself?


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

I've actually decided with going to a solid bottom board, to make it a combination bottom board and top cover. I'm placing 3/4" spacers completely around a 20" x 16.25" piece of 3/4" advantach with the exception of a 3" opening in the front to use for my oxalic acid vaporizer. The other side of the solid bottom board will have shims on one side (as Michael Bush shows). That way when it is used as a bottom board, it gives a slight slant the front (which is good for drainage). When used as a top cover I just reverse it which gives the bees a top entrance. Basically, you. You eliminate the inner cover and use a piece of burlap (or not). I know this eliminates the front landing board but so.......what. This method allows me eliminate carry a lot of extra equipment. Since is this my first season doing this, I'll let you know how it goes. 

I'd appreciate your thoughts & observations please. 

Question for you all........do I really need the 3/4" riser/spacer around the bottom board for bee space or could I just place the hive directly on a solid board. I know I said I need it for the OA vaporizer, but I could vaporize from the top if necessary.

Larry


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## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

piece of 1/4 luan and a stapler converts those screens into solids real quick....


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

IPM....integrated pest management. I believe it was Jim Tew that stated at one of our beekeeping meetings that some studies have showed that screened bottom boards help reduce mite loads by 15-20 percent. 15% would be a pretty good chunk of the total picture. To this add hygienic bees, drone trapping, sugar dusting, EOs, vaporizing, chemicals (if you're so disposed), etc., and it all adds up to the total reduction of mites. I believe it's a combination of things that will beat varroa, each weapon adding it's own % of kill.

It is interesting how some studies show "this" result and others show "that" result. Pick your, eh, poison...? Anybody want to dig up the different studies and do a side-by-side comparison? 

Having said that, I may try a solid bottom board this year and see how it goes in the southern heat/sun.

Ed

ps gmcharlie, nice catch on converting those scbb's to sobb's.


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## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

Works as double duty, but they do trash up a bit. and beetles hide. 

As for that 15%, Large scale studies disproved that number several times. No real studies I have seen on the effects on brood, just anecdotal evidence. but its a strong enough observation for me to leave them behind. I do have to say I was astounded by the data that said there was no difference in winter survivibility...... that proves to me one, they are no real help with mites, and 2 the airflow is not an issue....... (or the data is skewed)


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## Wesbee (Oct 16, 2012)

I use sbb, but ihave a panel that slides in to close it up tight, what I like is all winter by checking the panel I know where my bees are feeding by the debris, center or outside, when they are taking sugar or if they are on the honey . in summer I count the mites on the board and most of all the other debris fall throught. its closed all the time except for when I check it and clean it, only my 1st yr but so far works for me


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## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

It looks like most are going with a solid BB , I'm getting ready to build a couple, should I not glue the board in so I could slide it out on a really hot periods and slide it in for winter . Or am I worrying about it to much .


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## scorpionmain (Apr 17, 2012)

Solid.

Tried the screen.
I think mine do better with a solid bottom.


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## woodsy (Mar 3, 2013)

Glad i read this thread *after *i bought 2 screened btm boards for my new hives,
but i also read here about an easy solution...1/4" luan 

Too many options for newbees like me


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## jdawdy (May 22, 2012)

I have screened bottom boards, however, my interest is not mite control (very little in the way of mites around here) but rather ventilation for the hive. Summer temps in the desert can be over 110. I haven't really found anyone who will tell me how much of a difference the ventilation makes, but I figure it can't hurt. For winter I either switch to a solid bottom or I cut out some cardboard to place over the screen to provide insulation.


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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

woodsy said:


> Glad i read this thread *after *i bought 2 screened btm boards for my new hives,
> but i also read here about an easy solution...1/4" luan
> 
> Too many options for newbees like me


I use screened bottom board as shown in the " build it your self" section on this site. http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/ipm-screened-bottom-board/

It has a 1/4" luan insert to close it off in when desired.

It is designed as a means to check mite drop, but also serves as a seal against drafts if you want to use it as one.


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## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

Ralph , thanks for the heads up, I thought I saw mention of that , sounds like a good idea to me , best of both worlds , I'll go with those plans . I see you use tar paper for the winter , I'm worried about are cold winters here and am trying to plan a wind break , how does the tar paper work and what about not enough ventilation and moisture , how can you know whats going on inside for a newbee this is a tuff issue .


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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

I think that the tar paper keeps out some of the draft and also the dark color helps with a little heat gain when the sun is out.

Moisture is a big issue. You need a little air movement, but don't want a lot of draft. A vent hole in the rim of the inner cover is a good idea. I also drill a 1/2 hole in the front of the top brood box. I put a super full of pine shavings on top to insulate and absorb moisture. 

So far this year all of my hives seem to be doing okay.


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## woodsy (Mar 3, 2013)

ralittlefield said:


> I use screened bottom board as shown in the " build it your self" section on this site. http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/ipm-screened-bottom-board/
> 
> It has a 1/4" luan insert to close it off in when desired.
> 
> It is designed as a means to check mite drop, but also serves as a seal against drafts if you want to use it as one.


The screened bottom boards i bought came with a metal slide out tray, pulls out from the 
back with the landing board in place. 
I suppose a little extra ventilation in the summer wouldn't hurt.


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