# Outer cover flashing



## honeyman46408 (Feb 14, 2003)

I think most of the flashing is the same thickness, "Menards" sells it 24" wide, I use Galv. material I think it is a little more durable.


----------



## nsmith1957 (Sep 7, 2006)

I use standard 20" galv. home roof flashing then cut it to length with tin snips. Works fine for me.


----------



## WVbeekeeper (Jun 4, 2007)

i like using coil stock. it don't need painting, stays cool, don't rust, and doesn't reflect the sun into your eyes. if you get flashing, get it 24" wide so you can cover all the wood. the ones i have with exposed wood are not holding up as good as the ones i made with all the wood covered.


----------



## Jeffzhear (Dec 2, 2006)

I use the aluminum flashing from Lowes, cut it with tin snips, works great for me and is easy to nail the tops on through the metal.


----------



## Dave W (Aug 3, 2002)

Aluminum flashing (some times called coil stock too) can be purchased in "bright" (shinny) aluminum or painted (white and brown are very popular).

The painted type may not need painting (if you like the color) or if it does, the "coating" takes (holds) paint easily. Unpainted (raw) aluminium must be primed before painting so it sticks.

An easy way to cut nice (almost non-sharp) straight pcs is to use a sharp knife and a straight edge. Simply "score" the flashing (maybe once, maybe twice) and then bend to break apart. Works Great!

>Is there a certain thickness of flashing to build a durable cover?
>Is aluminum the proper metal to use?

Aluminum flashing is my choice.


----------



## WVbeekeeper (Jun 4, 2007)

this is similar to what i like best for my outer lids. you can buy this stuff at lowe's. they generally keep it where the siding is. i like the pvc coating because don't have to paint it. you never have to worry about it rusting because it's aluminum, and it's wide enough to cover all the wood on the sides of the cover. i think the last time i bought a roll it was between 50 to 60 dollars.

http://www.alcoahomes.com/alcoahome...oductBrandId=18&productCategory=3&styleId=847


----------



## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

Anyone ever use copper? Given, it's costly but does it work OK? I'd love to build one and let it go green!


----------



## beegee (Jun 3, 2003)

Ravenseye said:


> Anyone ever use copper? Given, it's costly but does it work OK? I'd love to build one and let it go green!


Brushy Mountains sells copper-topped "English Garden Hives" 8-frame. They are pretty when new and shiny and interesting when they turn green.


----------



## ScadsOBees (Oct 2, 2003)

If you are outer cover flashing, you might want to put some inner cover on, people go to jail for that, you know.....


----------



## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

I don't know what Lowe's or any other bulding supply charges. I got my tin from a printer. They use the sheets to publish the newspaper, then send it to the recycler. It has some funky patterns of print, but it's only $2 for a 24x18 sheet. One side has printing, one side is shiny.

Not sure where the printer is? Ask your newspaper who prints it for them, especially with the smaller, hometown newspapers. They'll give you the name of the printer.

Grant
Jackson, MO


----------



## Jeffzhear (Dec 2, 2006)

Dave W said:


> "...An easy way to cut nice (almost non-sharp) straight pcs is to use a sharp knife and a straight edge. Simply "score" the flashing (maybe once, maybe twice) and then bend to break apart. Works Great!...



Dave, nice suggestion, I am going to try that. Thanks


----------



## MDS (Jan 9, 2011)

Went to Ace Hardware and found some rolled aluminum flashing that was 14" wide by 10' long. Makes 5 tops for nucs and paid $9 for it. It is thin enough that I can bend it by hand. I cut the wood for the top out of 3/4" CDX rather than plywood. It's less expensive and gets the job done. I used a utility knife to score the flashing and then bent it back and forth to get it to break. I also glue the lumber and use a brad nailer so the glue has time to setup. Then I use screws. I bent the metal over the top by hand and use a 1/2" staple to hold it in place. Starting with making nuc covers to see if that works, if so, I'm doing the same for hive bodies.


----------



## WilliamsHoneyBees (Feb 17, 2010)

I have a local buisness that makes metal for roofs. They get big rolls of it in and run it through a machine to put the raised beads in it. I get my metal from them, flat galvanized 10 @ $20. 2 dollars a piece cut to fit and no sharp edges. Only bad part is the metal is so thick it's a real pain in the rear to get it bent. But man once I get that metal on there it'll last a lifetime and then maybe another. 

-Dan


----------



## tommyt (Aug 7, 2010)

Just a Question or 2 for thought
When you attach Metal cover do you use a vapor barrier under it so you don't 
get trap moisture? I know in a Housing application you would need to do something like this.
So I ask you guys if it applies here or is it that the lid is loose enough the moisture is not enough to worry about 
Do you leave an air gap instead

Tommyt


----------



## fish_stix (May 17, 2009)

MDS; just for your info, CDX is still plywood! CDX simply means that it has a "C" graded side and a "D" graded side and the "X" is for exterior glue. CDX is common sheathing plywood used mostly for roof decking and subsiding on houses.


----------

