# hive beatles, how to treat w/o chemicals?



## honey jhar (Jun 5, 2014)

My babies need help, before I kill them.
Just found the spawn today.The bees have 9 hours of sun. 
Thanks


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## Rusty Hills Farm (Mar 24, 2010)

I live in a high beetle population state. I never see a live beetle these days, though I do see plenty of dead ones. They drown/smother in the mineral oil in my oil trays that are under my screened bottom boards. You can buy these bottom-board traps from a number of sources or you can build your own. There may even be plans here on BS--or you can use the free plans you find online. I have my own design (also free) on my website, too. 

HTH

Rusty


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## honey jhar (Jun 5, 2014)

I have a screened bottom board used over a regular bottom board. What type of tray have others inserted to hold the oil? Is mineral oil the one used? Something else?
I'll look at your site Rusty, Thanks.


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

I use diatomaceous earth on the solid board, which is underneath the screened bottom board. Make sure the bees don't have access to it.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

There are plans for an IPM bottom board in the _Build-It-Yourself_ section:
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/ipm-screened-bottom-board/

Those plans assume a 'sticky' board under the screen so the depth of that area is a little short of what a tray needs, IMO. But its easy to add some space while you are building from those plans. I use some plastic 'cafeteria trays' (maybe TV trays) that are the right size for 10 frame hives. Also, 1/2 sheet cake pans should fit.


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## honey jhar (Jun 5, 2014)

I'll be making something like Rusty's design. As an emergency meanwhile action, under my screened board will be a throw away cookie sheets with mineral oil in the bottom. The trays will not cover the entire bottom board, and there will be no handy access to it, but it will be better than what I have now.
Also as discussed elsewhere in the forum, I'll reduce my entrance with window screening, perhaps to 1 or 2 inches wide.

And um... I need to use mineral OIL, and should NOT use mineral SPIRITS, correct?

Than you all for you quick responses!

How often do those of you who currently have issues with pests have to empty your trays? 
Rusty, how often do you need to empty yours, with no current issues?


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## Phoebee (Jan 29, 2014)

An oil-sprayed IPM board works pretty well, too. I have the oil traps, too, and they seem to work, but I often have an IPM board sprayed with PAM in for mite counts, and it gets SHB adults and larvae as well. The bees must be pretty good at running them out because they've never been slimed in spite of seeing a larvum once every week or two. They're managing to breed but not make a mess. 

Sun from morning to maybe 2 PM. Apiary is gravel over weedblock, hives are on stands. Plant hardiness zone 6B.

The gravel and weedblock, or concrete, may make life difficult for SHB. We only have two hives and no others close by, so apparently there are not a lot of SHB around and we're trying not to breed them.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Mineral oil is also known as baby oil, and will work fine. Mineral spirits is also known as turpentine, and would not be a good choice. Vegetable oil will also work, but vegetable oil may need to be changed more frequently than mineral oil.


As mentioned by Ruthie, diatomaceous earth will also work, and doesn't spill as easily.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

honey jhar said:


> My babies need help, before I kill them.
> Just found the spawn today.The bees have 9 hours of sun.
> Thanks


How many hive beetles did you see in your hive? Or did you see the larvae, the worms? If there aren't very many, and you are fast enough, since you don't want to use chemicals, squash them w/ a hive tool.


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

if you happen to be feeding protein patties get them out of the hive. the patties are a shb nursery this time of year.


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## honey jhar (Jun 5, 2014)

I believe them to be new to the hive. They were in the brood box on the empty side of an outside frame (those that I saw...) And those that I saw, out of 9, 7 are dead. Hive tools are handy. They work better when those who wield them aren't too busy thinking "Wha-! Those little #@** aren't supposed to be in MY hives!"
No proteine patties needed yet.

++++Ruthie "I use diatomaceous earth on the solid board, which is underneath the screened bottom board. Make sure the bees don't have access to it."

About that, my vivid imagination sees high wind gusts whooshing under the 1/16" gap under the screen-board resulting in a diatomaceous dust devil inside the hive... So while liquid shwooshes, while I'm not moving it, it is stationary. 

First year beek, who's perfect russian babies aren't like those wild kids down the street...Mine are better behaved and more responsible.


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## honey jhar (Jun 5, 2014)

I've got my temporary measures accomplished. On re-entry each of 2 hives had about 10-15 shb running around. They no are no longer able to run. No slime. A few odd looking cells, maybe with shb? Mineral oil and apple cider vinegar in trays under screens.

I also plan to order some reusable traps as well. I hope this will control the population. Thanks again to everyone.


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

Make *sure* that bees can't get into your oil tray.

Ed


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## honey jhar (Jun 5, 2014)

Already done. It is placed on my solid bottom board, under the screened board. There is no access to the bees-or to me, without moving the whole hive off of the bottom board. This is an emergency measure with building new bottom boards similar to the ipm board here http://www.rustyhillsfarm.net/ in the next few days.

Umm, anyone have a method to avoid squashing bees while moving boxes back and forth? Or must I be resigned to colateral damage?


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## Santa Caras (Aug 14, 2013)

heavy SHB population in my area.
A.I use SBB/oil tray. I mainly use water and pour about 4 tblspoons of oil in there with it. the oil stays on top of the water and the SHB when they fall in get oil on them and drown. You dont need to fill the whole thing just with mineral oil. mostly water with some oil does it.
B. the oil traps that fit between the frames. I use two up top beneath the inner lid. These get some but I use em anyway cuz a dead SHB is a good SHB.
C. I call it Hive Motel. goes by another name online but it's bascially a reusable Roach Motel that I fill with Roach paste. This kills a few also so I continue with them. These sit on TOP of the inner lid tween the Telescoping Top and the inner lid. ( I have two per hive)
D. Hive tool. When I take the top and lid off...I walk it away a few feet from the hive and kill as many as I can right away. When I've finished inspecting and putting the lids back on...then I may kill a few more that I missed. 
Note: there is a product called Checkmite that works on SHB...I've read that this toxin can stay in the wax for many many years so I've been told NOT to use it.
I dont know of a chemical that can be used to kill the SHB in a hive.

Now for squashing bees when inspecting? Nothing to be done about it. Your gonna kill some everytime your in there. Smoke em a lil to get em down in the hive before you put a box or lid on, start at a corner with a box and slowly wiggle it down so the bees move but just about anything you do....will result in some dead bees. The only one that counts is the Queen....any other bee is disposable.


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## challenger (May 27, 2009)

Get some 1/4"thick wood slats similar to paint stir sticks. Place one on each corner before stacking boxes. Stack boxes and wait 5 seconds. Any bees between will get compressed but will wiggle out from between. Remove the sticks and done. 
You can also try water with a few drops of soap in traps. Soap removes the surface tension just like oil. I find it less messy but I don't use many traps. I'll start using something again though because my hives have lots of beetles. I've lamented about these lousy things before here and they are back in force. I am wondering about the Beetle baffles. Thin metal the goes between hive body and bottom board. It's supposed to prevent the SHB from being able to climb up the hive inside??


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## Rusty Hills Farm (Mar 24, 2010)

honey jhar said:


> Rusty, how often do you need to empty yours, with no current issues?


I fill the trays with about 1/2" of mineral oil in the spring. Then about once a month all summer I strain it into a bucket, discard the nasty, and refill the tray with the remaining oil. About every other month or so, I top off the trays to make sure I still have that 1/2" in each tray. Come colder weather I usually dump the oil but if I forget, I replace it come spring and start the whole process over with fresh oil.

HTH

Rusty


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