# mini mating nucs



## beefarmer (May 2, 2010)

anybody using 4 or 5 frame mini nucs, which is better ?


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## MTN-Bees (Jan 27, 2014)

If your only building a few I would probably use a 4 or 5 frame nuc as a mating nuc.

That way all your frames are interchangeable. If you set up with 4 or 5 frame nucs you could also overwinter them by adding a second nuc body on top.


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

my 3 frame mini nuc is too small. The UK has 5 mini frame nucs, so that's what I'd go with if I were building some. Can't remember the name, but Phil Chandler on FB would be able to tell you.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

If you are going to try the baby nuc's, most guys use the ones that fit 30 to a modified standard Illinois Super box (5 11/16" deep) for drawing out the combs. Two of these draws out 15 baby nuc's with 4 frames each + a small feeder tank, sometimes made from a 1-quart oil container and chicken wire folded up to keep bees from drowning.

Double baby nuc's save a lot of time and effort. Entrances - a wine cork hole - go on the opposite ends. 

You *DO* have to work them on a tight schedule - they will swarm off a few weeks after mating. This is why I prefer 3 x 3-frame (that's 2 partitions in a standard 10-frame deep, 3 frames in each of the 3 chambers) for mating. The bees can stay in them, uninterrupted, for another month most years.

Good luck!


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## Clayton Huestis (Jan 6, 2013)

This is what my 4 way mini mating nucs look like:















This is what they look like in over winter configuration:









Pretty much what M. Palmer and Webster do. Only thing I do different is I use a solid divider yet still removable instead of a division board feeder. Also I pull the dividers for winter and have the bees draw two more combs for extra stores. I also have my stronger minies over winter on 10 over 10.


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

MTN-Bees said:


> If your only building a few I would probably use a 4 or 5 frame nuc as a mating nuc.
> 
> That way all your frames are interchangeable. If you set up with 4 or 5 frame nucs you could also overwinter them by adding a second nuc body on top.


^^^
This is the route I've taken and am very pleased.
Have already mated queens and overwintered nucs. Keep your frames all interchangeable. 
Build your nucs 8.125" wide and stack em up on both sides of a divided deep.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

Oh, a few other things... 

Timing the removal of mini frames from drawing out the wax is a small trick. You'll need 3 empty frames and one honey/pollen filled frame for each nuc', so you'll be leaving some in longer than others to get filled.

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Edit: hot idea - make an observer box for drawing out the wax mini frames! 
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Make plenty of extras. Start early, as not all of them will get drawn completely, and you'll need enough with honey and pollen. Freshly drawn wax usually does not need to be frozen - the wax moths only seem interested in comb that has had brood in it.

Your baby nuc's will need to be fed, but only if you do not have a serious beetle problem. Patties and a jar top works well, but many beekeepers prefer the mini inside feeder - half an oil container.

Many a beek' is now putting a robber screen directly onto the nuc's before filling them up with combs and bees, and it seems to be doing quite OK. You might try that.


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