# Hot Air vaporizers?



## dadandsonsbees (Jan 25, 2012)

I built one out of copper pipe to it my heat gun. I run it on the lowest heat setting ( only have two settings -HI and LOW)


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## forestbee (Sep 11, 2003)

Dadand, do you have any pictures you can share? Also how did you calibrated?


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## dadandsonsbees (Jan 25, 2012)

I don't have any pictures as of yet. I did quickly sketch something for you while I was at work.
I used 1/2" copper pipe with a 1/2"x1/2"x3/4 T. And on the end that fits my heat gun is a 
1" x 1 1/4" reducer. I use a 1/2" cap to measure the OA and place the OA into a capped peice of 1/2" pipe that has small holes drilled into it to allow the OA vapors to escape. I can load the 1/2" capped piece into the 3/4" end of the T and then cap the T. I can load as many of the !/2" peices as I need and just cahnge them out as one gets empty. 
View attachment OA vaporizer.pdf


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## forestbee (Sep 11, 2003)

Thanks a lot, that is very helpful


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## dadandsonsbees (Jan 25, 2012)

You're welcome. I will post pics when I can.


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## Father & Sons Apiary (Sep 4, 2013)

the problem with those kind of vaporizers is that the oa crystalizes in side the pipes. Best treatment so far with oa is the dripple.


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## dadandsonsbees (Jan 25, 2012)

To each his own Father & Sons, I really don't care for the dripple (dribble) method. After I use my vaporizer I just put it in a bucket of water to cool it off and the crystalized OA is disolved and the vaporizer is clean and good to go for the next round of treatments.
I guess if everyone did everything the same way it would be a boring world.


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## forestbee (Sep 11, 2003)

That is a good point, so may be if it is shorter with some insulation around The crystallization problem will be eliminated/reduced. Also the whol thin may be make of plastic as one I sent in my original post. the compartment where to put the OA crystals was my problem ,I start get some ideas of the sketch/information Dadad sent, I will get better ideas when I see the pictures.


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## dadandsonsbees (Jan 25, 2012)

forestbee, you don't want it too short because you don't want very hot air blowing inside the hive you just want the vapors. insulation around the chamber might help though. I'd be care ful of some plastics as they give off toxic vapors when heated to a high degree.


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## dadandsonsbees (Jan 25, 2012)

forestbee, here are some pictures of the OA vaporizer.


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## DRAKOS (Oct 17, 2011)

Dadand, how many seconds, minutes , do you use it in every hive?
I think you must have solid bottom boards.


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## dadandsonsbees (Jan 25, 2012)

DRAKOS, I leave it in each individual hive approx 2 1/2 to 3 minutes. After I vape a hive I remove the vaporizer remove the empty cartridge and put in another one and off to the next hive. I don't have all solid bottom boards. It works fine on SBB due to the fact that warm/hot air rises and the bees will them fan it through out the hive. I only do treatments during the cooler part of the year when there is little or no brood. One point to I need to make is to use the low setting on the heat gun due to the fact that the heat gun uses a fan to disperse the vapors and you dont want to blow extremely hot air into the hive and at really hot temps the OA vapors change to Carbon Monoxide vapors.


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## DRAKOS (Oct 17, 2011)

Thanks for your reply


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## Lburou (May 13, 2012)

This tactic sounds promising and risky at the same time. I want to keep up on this topic: subscribed.


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## dadandsonsbees (Jan 25, 2012)

Lee the only risky thing I have found out about this vaporizer is you can burn the crap out of your finger our hand if you are not careful. The pipe next to the heat gun gets HOT. But I am going to fix that with some insulation.


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## forestbee (Sep 11, 2003)

Dadant, Thank you very much for the information and sorry for the late message.


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## dadandsonsbees (Jan 25, 2012)

forestbee,
You are welcome glad to help.


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