# I don't understand nails



## WilliamsHoneyBees (Feb 17, 2010)

Titebond III and whatever nails you can get that will go through the fist board and into the second. You may want to predrill your holes. I don't use nails I use 1 5/8 inch screws, so it is totally a prefrence thing. Glue and nailed they won't fall apart anytime soon.


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## Michael B (Feb 6, 2010)

I used galvanized 6d nails. They work just fine. I glue my joints also.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Well, I don't want to throw a wrench in the gears here, but screws really would be better :0

First time though, let's go with nails and glue. Tightbond III (the kind you got) is fantastic, so good choice there. 

7D nails are in fact 2.25" long, but you don't really _have_ to use those. Basically, if it fits in the pre-drilled hole, you'll be good to go. The longer the better, within reason. If you can't find 7D nails, go with 8D. Galvanized nails are great, but if you are going to paint over them (which you should) it doesn't really matter what kind they are (save some money here).

It's wise to save money on nails, but spend the saved money on a good glue.

The goal of the nails is just to hold the wood together long enough for the glue to dry. 

End result: Get 8D nails - whatever kind you want. Then paint your box. Good luck!


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## RiodeLobo (Oct 11, 2010)

:ws
with glue.

Enough said.


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## journey11 (Dec 31, 2009)

Thanks everyone! I've got some 8D's that I'll go ahead and use.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

... and seal exposed end-grain with Tite Bond. Water will not be able to penetrate into the joints.

Coated deck screws work well.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I'd buy the deck screws, a countersink bit and a driver bit for the screws. 1 3/4" to 2" long would work pretty well.

But if you insist on nails, 7p are eady to find, but maybe not galvanized. 8p will work fine.


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## Bsweet (Apr 9, 2010)

I use coated deck screws and pre drill for them. I'm a lefty and you can only buy right handed hammers anymore. Jim


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## tefer2 (Sep 13, 2009)

you can find 7D galvanized nails on the self at Menards all day long.


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

Now being a guy, I want to know what you mean by "Now bare with me"


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

HVH said:


> Now being a guy


What caused the change?


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## drice (Dec 13, 2010)

I build my own boxes and use exterior finish screws. I don't predrill my holes like your boxes are. I might have one out of a hundred split out. These should work fine, just start the screw behind the predrilled hole and go on an angle. Also you wont find these screws at home depot you'll probably need to find a regular lumber yard. With using glue and clamps I typically only put one at the top and bottom per corner.


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## Konrad (Oct 7, 2004)

Drywall screw's work pretty good, they are better then any other screws against splitting the wood, [even when used very long], because the solid inner body diameter is thinner then other screws.


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## yamahawg (May 19, 2010)

I ordered and received and started building 10 medium supers from Mann Lake and had ordered pound of nails as well, which ran short with about 3 supers left, so bought some 6Ds one day when in walmart. Tad bit shorter than what I got from Mann Lake but long enough.


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## Omie (Nov 10, 2009)

HVH said:


> Now being a guy, I want to know what you mean by "Now bare with me"


I was chuckling at that one too, and i'm not a guy! :lpf:


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## fish_stix (May 17, 2009)

Our Home Depots in FL carry 7D box nails, but only in 1 pound packages, which should be plenty for hobbiests. Box nails are smaller in diameter than common nails to lower chances of splitting the wood. If you order from Dadant's etc. you're getting 7D box nails. 6D or 8D commons work in a pinch, and most beekeepers are always in a pinch!


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## journey11 (Dec 31, 2009)

HVH said:


> Now being a guy, I want to know what you mean by "Now bare with me"


:doh: Have mercy on a newbie, just an innocent spelling mistake! 

Thanks everyone for your advice! I was really puzzled on this and don't want to mess up and split the joints on my new deeps. Sounds like screws would be the best then. I probably have some around here that would work and I do have some of the 8D nails too if not.


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## JRH (Dec 30, 2010)

Buy a box of #6 deck screws. Get a combo drill bit that drills the hole AND makes the countersink for the screw head. A bit for your electric drill that fits the philips head of the screw is a time-saver. And don't forget the Titebond II.

Regards,
JRH


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

TitebondIII and you don't need screws unless the glue fails - which it shouldn't. JMHO. You can do a search within this forum and find a lot of good stuff on this topic. I always advocate keeping moisture out of the joints with good glue and good paint. If you keep the water out, the wood won't expand and contract which is a cause for glue failure. If the glue fails then the screws are kind of nice.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

The devil is in the details. I have been known to use 3.5 inch deck nails down to 2" nails. Who cares! use whatever you have laying in the garage. Right now I use deck screws and nails about the size you are using + glue. 
mike


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

HVH said:


> TitebondIII and you don't need screws
> 
> snip


I have some 5-frame medium nuc boxes that don't have any fasteners in them... just Titebond III. 

I'm curious to see how they hold up. I suspect they'll do fine with the end-grain sealed with glue as well...






I'll never be able to buy fasteners again without thinking of "I don't understand nails".

Sounds like a book title.


I have a fair understanding of nails. 
What I don't understand is the strange relationship between my hammer and left thumb! 
It seems unhealthy to me...


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Haha, awesome BeeCurious.

I havn't been sealing the end grain with glue . . . but I will be now!


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## Jim 134 (Dec 1, 2007)

You are looking for 7D boxes nails the diameter as small than 7D common nails

BEE HAPPY Jim 134


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