# Homemade Owens Bee-Vac?



## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

Definitely swap out the perforated hose for a smooth walled one. It is not as hard on the bee's as they go through. just my .02


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## Jaseemtp (Nov 29, 2010)

I am looking at building the same thing, since I am trying my had an doing cutouts. I have seen a video on youtube by a guy with the user name outofabluesky. He has one that is gigantic, but I wonder where you get the extra hose and the tappared adapters to get the hose to attach to the bucket.
Jason


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## buzzbuzz (Oct 20, 2009)

I built one using the vac pictured and a five gallon bucket last year. I did not create an inner chamber as it unnecessarily complicated the design and use of the vaccum. I used it on multiple cutouts and it worked great. Just make sure you make a large hole in the bucket in order to decrease the amount of suction applied to the hose, otherwise you'll will kill many bees.


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## BugBoy (Mar 16, 2011)

buzzbuzz said:


> I built one using the vac pictured and a five gallon bucket last year. I did not create an inner chamber as it unnecessarily complicated the design and use of the vaccum. I used it on multiple cutouts and it worked great. Just make sure you make a large hole in the bucket in order to decrease the amount of suction applied to the hose, otherwise you'll will kill many bees.


Glad to hear that an inner chamber isn't really that importent, saves me some time and money. How large do you reccomend the air regulator hole to be? 2 1/2 inches, maybe? Also, did you have the Shop-Vac connected to the bucket, or seperate?


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## buzzbuzz (Oct 20, 2009)

I think I made the hole around 1.5 inches around using a hole saw and then covered it with left over hardware cloth from making sbb's.

I took apart the vacuum, removing the filter and such and them mounted the motor to a pail lid which I had cut the center out of. I used an empty joint compound bucket which had a regular snap on lid, not one of the screw on lids like you show in your original thread.

From what I can tell the inner chamber is used to make it possible to capture multiple swarms on one outing by using multiple chambers. It also helps facilitate the bees in cooling the cluster by providing extra ventilation. If you intend to make long trips with the bees in the bucket you should use your ac liberally. Also the vacuum should be left on for the duration of the cutout even when you are not using it, for the same reason. So, as you say the inner chamber is not necessary, but may be very useful depending upon your needs.


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## BugBoy (Mar 16, 2011)

Ah, ok, I get it now.  So what I think I'll do, is if I decide not to use an inner chamber, I'll pad some of the inner bucket with foam. When I'm finished sucking up the bees, I'll make it so I can close the hose hole. Maybe I could also cut out another larger hole, ventilated with hardware cloth, and add a sliding cover to help with extra ventilation during long car rides.

Or, I could just make it easier on myself and make my own inner chamber. lol. Perhaps similar to the packaged bees container, but rounded.


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## buzzbuzz (Oct 20, 2009)

You could also just use another bucket lid, cut out and covered with screen.

To prevent them from exiting through the hose, I detach the hose and plug the hole with a wad of whatever is lying about.

The foam is not necessary if you have the suction adjusted properly, it also might provide a rough surface for the bees to cling to, complicating installation of the colony into a hive.


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## BugBoy (Mar 16, 2011)

You make some good points, especially about the foam padding. I will use secondary cut out lid like you suggest, I like that idea. Thanks for the help. Can't wait to get started.


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## BugBoy (Mar 16, 2011)

I found an old Shop-Vac 5 gallon in my basement. It's a bit bigger than the 1 gallon. Should I be worried about the vent that's under the motor piece? Should I cover it with hardware cloth? I don't want the bees to be sucked up into the motor. :O


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## Eric Baxter (Sep 9, 2010)

Yes you should put the hardware cloth. A hose clamp will hold in place. That way you can clean or replace easily You also need to put two regulator valves so you can regulate vacuum pressure. To much suction and you smash the bees on the other end. A soft landing pad is also a good idea. The less vacuum you use the better. My vac container is larger than a 5 gallon bucket. With a 5 gallon bucket you need two or three cages so you can change them when their 1/2 full or so or you start to kill the bees. I found a pool vac hose it is ribbed but it is very smooth witch very important. The iner cages make easer to transport and when i get home I have a bottom borad with hole almost the same size as my cage. I remove the lid put the bottom board inplace with a deep with comb and lid by the way the bottom board dosan"t have an entrance. In morning the dead bee stay down the live ones go up. When all the bees are up I put deep on a screened bottom board.


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## BugBoy (Mar 16, 2011)

My motor is 1.25 hoursepower. I have a 2 1/4 hole saw, would two of holes of this size be good for my bee vac? I'll add a little bit of soft foam inside as a landing pad, and see if I can find a smooth hose.


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## buzzbuzz (Oct 20, 2009)

I covered mine with hardware cloth.


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## BugBoy (Mar 16, 2011)

Project finished.  Has no inner cage, but shouldn't be too much a problem. Can't wait to try it out.


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## Eric Baxter (Sep 9, 2010)

The only thing about your vac hose in the bottom the bees are going to crash in a pile of bees. I Would put hole at the top and angle it down.


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## bbbbeeman (Jan 13, 2007)

yes yes yes ,cover the bottom with a screen. my bee vac is the hive<a deep and medium>alsothe bottom board.the top is where the bees are vaced into the hive.the hose 2"is smoth inside,and inters in one corner.the frames are removed under this openning,1/2 belowe the plastic top that hose fitting goes through is a full screen.in the other corner a pluming rubber reducer is used to hold the vac motor, useuly it 6x4" the rubber makes a tight fit. I use masking tape on all the joints bottom boarb to hive body,and hive body to medium is tape together,tapeis removed to regulate the air flow. screen is taped to the lower interance and tape over it ,after the bees are vaced in take the tape off the screen but leave the screen for venttilateion.when the bees are home or the bee yard pull the screen that night change the top . no dumpping or killing bee. good luck rock


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## tommyt (Aug 7, 2010)

I just added this to my list 









I have 3 different one's now a Tupperware with removable inserts 
a bucket kinda like to yours
and one that will take in 5 too maybe 10 lbs (big gun) 
and when filled you put a deep box on it 
pull slide out and bees crawl right up into the Frames 
This one was made for me as a gift its one heck of a machine


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## davel (Jan 29, 2011)

I need some pictures of you inner container designs. I have some ideas of how to do it but I do better picturing other designs and then figuring out what I need to do.
I picked up a 7 gallon bucket from a pool supplier and have mounted my shop vac bucket lid motor to the top. I need to drill my suction hose hole and build my inner container. Need to do a removal tomorrow. I will use the existing shop vac suction hole at the top for my suction damper.
Thanks for the help!!


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## tommyt (Aug 7, 2010)

Dave 
Check PM


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## davel (Jan 29, 2011)

I will build one like the robo one another time but I need a container that goes in a bucket like the Owens vac.
Thanks.


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