# What do you use for hive strap?



## NewbeeInNH (Jul 10, 2012)

I have a 4 medium and a 5 medium super hive and need to strap them for high winds this winter. Not sure what to use. I see there are commercial products, 16 ft. of strapping for $10. Any other ideas?


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## jdmidwest (Jul 9, 2012)

I buy ratchet straps at a local hardware store. $2.50 for a 15 footer.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

lashing straps. harbor freight (hate the place) 2 1x12' yellow color about 4$. Home Depot has some too, I think 15' blk color a little more expensive. They work well, last a couple of years as I use them all year round, inexpensive.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Here is a link to some of the HF straps _Clyderoad _mentioned. They are on sale for 4 for $8, but you can likely find a coupon to reduce that price.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piec...zIjoiNy45OSIsInByb2R1Y3RfaWQi
OiIyMjYzIn0=



> Any other ideas? 

Dare I mention the infamous _5 gallon bucket of water_? :lookout:
http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...s-and-high-winds-question&highlight=Hurricane

:gh:


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

Rader, or these 

http://www.harborfreight.com/set-of-2-1-inch-x-12-ft-lashing-straps-67386.html

yep, bucket of water works but It's heavy!


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## NewbeeInNH (Jul 10, 2012)

Thanks! Harbor Freight would have to ship, but I do see Home Depot has the 15' for $3.50 and Lowes has them for $8. Think I"ll try Home Depot tomorrow.


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## JWChesnut (Jul 31, 2013)

I use 5/16 nylon line cut from a bulk roll for pennies per foot. I tighten with a "trucker's hitch". You can put a crying strain on a trucker's hitch, more tension than a cheapo press metal ratchet will take. 
 http://www.netknots.com/files/9813/2990/8395/truckers-hitch.jpg 
I tie off the trucker's hitch with a looped half hitch so I can pop the line with a sharp yank to the loose end. 

Instead of a slip half hitch to create the upper pulley, I tend to tie a figure 8. More stable knot, but will bind on the line -- meaning the line is special purpose for the particular size of the stack. Not really an issue in the winter. Tied off smartly the line will play a note when you pluck it. I stay away from twisted poly rope because it doesn't last in the sun as well, and doesn't have the elasticity of the nylon. The webbing tends to rot and break just when you need it to hold.


(added)
One other thing on using the trucker's hitch.

You also have to create a fixed loop on the 2nd end of the line (the lower "pulley"). I use a bowlin' or a figure8 loop. Often when tieing off a trucker hitch you underestimate the slack you can pull up and the pulleys get drawn together before you are snug. It is easy to retie the lower loop to take out slack at that stage, without resetting the position of the upper loop. It is easy to estimate how much slack to take off the end, whereas moving a loop in the middle of the line sometimes leaves you wrong a second time (and much frustration).

In a long line, using figure 8's for the pulley, you can leave several loops in the line, and adjust the position used for the size of the hive stack. The slip half hitches won't work in that condition, because they will pull open unless they are under tension with the running line passing over the loop.

There's a knot (butterfly hitch) designed for these loops, but a figure8 becomes second nature and you can tie it with one hand.


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## beehonest (Nov 3, 2011)

I bought mine at tractor supply heavy duty ratcheting. I caught them on sale a couple years ago paid about $10 for 4 of them.


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## merince (Jul 19, 2011)

I use the cam buckle straps - the ratchet straps tend to seize during the winter and then they are useless.

JWChesnut - thanks for the suggestion for the knot - I was short 4 straps, so I will try doing this knot instead.


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## LeonardS (Mar 13, 2012)

I use the HD-840's from Mann Lake. I wait until they are on sale with the Bee Blast, then I buy a bunch. Quick to tighten and quick to release.

http://www.mannlakeltd.com/beekeeping-supplies/category/page40.html#HD-840


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## NewbeeInNH (Jul 10, 2012)

One more question - do you all usually use 1 strap per hive, or 2? I'm wondering if it's necessary to strap front/back and then side/side.


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## merince (Jul 19, 2011)

I just use 1 strap.


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## scorpionmain (Apr 17, 2012)

JWChesnut said:


> I use 5/16 nylon line cut from a bulk roll for pennies per foot. I tighten with a "trucker's hitch". You can put a crying strain on a trucker's hitch, more tension than a cheapo press metal ratchet will take.
> http://www.netknots.com/files/9813/2990/8395/truckers-hitch.jpg
> I tie off the trucker's hitch with a looped half hitch so I can pop the line with a sharp yank to the loose end.
> 
> Instead of a slip half hitch to create the upper pulley, I tend to tie a figure 8. More stable knot, but will bind on the line -- meaning the line is special purpose for the particular size of the stack. Not really an issue in the winter. Tied off smartly the line will play a note when you pluck it. I stay away from twisted poly rope because it doesn't last in the sun as well, and doesn't have the elasticity of the nylon. The webbing tends to rot and break just when you need it to hold.


Gonna have to try this.


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## KPeacock (Jan 29, 2013)

I buy 550 paracord in 1200' spools for use on all sorts of stuff from camping to random load securing. I use one string per hive tied with a truckers hitch. Assuming about 10' of line for each hive, you're looking at a cost of arounf 6 or 8 cents per hive. depending on what kind of deal you can get on the spool of line.


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## Tom B (May 11, 2011)

I agree with the trucker's hitch approach, I started with ratchet straps but they are expensive and the ratchet part is prone to corrosion. Nylon braid on core works well since it is fairly slippery and has a lot of stretch (so you can put some tension on it).


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## JWChesnut (Jul 31, 2013)

One other thing on using the trucker's hitch. 

You also have to create a fixed loop on the 2nd end of the line (the lower "pulley"). I use a bowlin' or a figure8 loop. Often when tieing off a trucker hitch you underestimate the slack you can pull up and the pulleys get drawn together before you are snug. It is easy to retie the lower loop to take out slack at that stage, without resetting the position of the upper loop. 

In a long line, using figure 8's for the pulley, you can leave several loops in the line, and adjust the position used for the size of the hive stack. The slip half hitches won't work in that condition, because they will pull open unless they are under tension with the running line passing over the loop. 

There's a knot (butterfly hitch) designed for these loops, but a figure8 becomes second nature and you can tie it with one hand.


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## gone2seed (Sep 18, 2011)

I'm low tech.I have a roll f #10 3 strand electrical wire left over from some construction.I strip the wire ,cut off a length long enough to go around the hive with plenty of slack.Put a stick through the wire and twist until it is tight.I like jwchestnut's idea but i'm knot challenged.


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

I use these, the same as Clyderoad posted...
http://www.harborfreight.com/set-of-2-1-inch-x-12-ft-lashing-straps-67386.html

I use two per hive.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

It's really a matter of what a person finds easiest, I think. These hives are behind my workshop, I call it my nursery yard where I do splits, nucs etc. I then move stuff to 2 outyards.
I share the property with another craftsman and we drive our trucks past/around them regularly, I keep them strapped in case one of us hits them. And we come close sometimes! I figure at least they might stay together.
Now when a hurricane is set to come through I strap them down even further, tied to the building-so far so good.
No 5gal water buckets as some have suggested for me.
Picture is from a couple of days ago, still good flying weather and queens still active but slowing.


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## Fusion_power (Jan 14, 2005)

I'm cheap. 5/16 nylon rope and a modified truckers hitch. I call it a tension knot. Same principle, just easier to untie.


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## Kidbeeyoz (May 8, 2013)

Australian beekeepers use "Emlock Hive Fasteners" with galvanised steel strapping as shown on this site:- http://www.johnlguilfoyle.com.au/Web pamphlets/Emlock Hive Fastener.pdf


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## MattDavey (Dec 16, 2011)

I've been using rachet straps like below lately. Emlock fasteners tend to squash the wood too much and leave large dents on the edges.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Images/Uploaded/Erickson01415pxl450.jpg


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## shinbone (Jul 5, 2011)

My hives are on my roof in a very windy area. I use a 1" nylon strap with a cam buckle. One per hive. 

I started with ratchet straps, but they were very fiddly, and the extra tightening power provided by the ratchet mechanism was overkill as well.

The cam buckles are quick and easy, and provide plenty of holding power against the 80 mph winds we sometimes get.


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## NewbeeInNH (Jul 10, 2012)

Well, as usual, everyone has a different opinion.  

Do cam and ratchet buckles last about the same amount of time?


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## shinbone (Jul 5, 2011)

My guess is that the nylon strap material dies from UV exposure long before the buckling system impacts the life of the strap.

But, there are fewer moving parts on a cam buckle than a ratchet mechanism to get rusty and seize.

I should add that I prefer the straps over a heavy object like a cinder block because I don't want to be schelpping a bunch of weight up the stairs and onto my roof.


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## brian2 (Oct 31, 2013)

Well, it depends. I usually use this kind of ratchet buckles to fix the webbing straps to the hive. http://www.lowyusa.com/?s=ratchet


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

NewbeeInNH said:


> I have a 4 medium and a 5 medium super hive and need to strap them for high winds this winter. Not sure what to use. I see there are commercial products, 16 ft. of strapping for $10. Any other ideas?


I wouldn't suggest a 5 gallon bucket. It will freeze and crack and on a warm day drain out and blow away. He, he, he.

You could use a tyveck wrap or a feed sac made of tyveck and staple it into the side of the hive box. If you bought a roll of tyveck you could put more than one wrap around the hive because it would be long enough. Chances are a feed sac would work because the top two boxes are the likely ones to blow over but you would have to staple both sides instead of just on one side.

If you have high winds a better thing to do is block the wind from hitting the hive in the first place.

Most people around here use a big rock or brick which could bring back the 5 gal bucket filled with sand or rocks.

I know my mentor used a brick because the placement of the brick using direction and the six sides signified what was going on in the hive.


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## Cascade Hunter (Sep 22, 2013)

Non stretch dacron rope and tent tie downs (either store bought or homemade) is probably the cheapest solution.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> Most people around here use a big rock or brick which could bring back the 5 gal bucket filled with sand or rocks.

Wow ... the 5 gallon bucket [previously with water] hive holder has _evolved_! Or perhaps that is alternatively described as _adapted_.  I have to wonder how many _parents _ (fathers?) were involved in this adaptation process. A demonstration that evolution or adaptation in the bee yard _can _occur in about 26 months ....

:gh:


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

When first conceived the location was Florida preceding a tropical storm. Water is plentiful. Now we are talking NH going into winter. Learn from the bees be adaptable.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird said:


> If you bought a roll of tyveck you could put more than one wrap around the hive because it would be long enough. Chances are a feed sac would work because the top two boxes are the likely ones to blow over but you would have to staple both sides instead of just on one side.


Wrapping a hive w/ tyvek is a very bad idea. Don't do it.

Brian, the boxes are all glued together by the bees. If they weren't, then it might be possible for the top two boxes to blow off.{what top two boxes are we talking about here} But not once the bees have glued them down, which happens faster than one might think.

How is stapling a feed sack onto the side of a hive supposed to keep it from being blown over? Were you suggesting he fill the feed sack w/ rocks or something.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

NewbeeInNH said:


> I have a 4 medium and a 5 medium super hive and need to strap them for high winds this winter. Not sure what to use. I see there are commercial products, 16 ft. of strapping for $10. Any other ideas?


What are your hives sitting on? If you can push them right up next to each other they will naturally be less apt to fall over.

Hives, in my experience, as high as yours hardly ever fall over or get blown over. Tall ones do because they get top heavy or are unstable to begin with.

If you can't set the hives right beside each other, why don't you put a stake against the side of the hive opposite the prevailing winds into a handhold and the ground. That should take care of it.

Low tech, low expense.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> > Any other ideas?
> 
> Dare I mention the infamous _5 gallon bucket of water_? :lookout:
> http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...s-and-high-winds-question&highlight=Hurricane
> ...


Poking the bird? Why bring up the past? Can't we move on to a brighter intelligently illuminated future?


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## Andrew Dewey (Aug 23, 2005)

sqkcrk said:


> Poking the bird? Why bring up the past? Can't we move on to a brighter intelligently illuminated future?


Like the Bs being the toast of Beantown? I stayed up last night watching and this morning I'm proud to say I was born in Boston! Oh wait, you're talking about the 'Bird. I don't hold out much in the way of hope.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Uhhh, Mark, let me point out that the quote that you used was posted some time ago. Absolutely nothing wrong with that, but that is not what I said _today_. 

Today, Ace himself made multiple references to the _Hurricane _thread, and even included a smiley. One might think that he found it _amusing_. 

> Poking the bird?

Isn't that exactly what you were doing when you made your comment about *adding rocks* to the sack Ace mentioned?

:gh:

One more thing. I have never referred to Acebird as "_the bird_". Is that some kind of honor? :scratch:


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

sqkcrk said:


> Brian, the boxes are all glued together by the bees. If they weren't, then it might be possible for the top two boxes to blow off.{what top two boxes are we talking about here} But not once the bees have glued them down, which happens faster than one might think.
> 
> How is stapling a feed sack onto the side of a hive supposed to keep it from being blown over? Were you suggesting he fill the feed sack w/ rocks or something.


Maybe I miss understood the title. Are we not talking about a strap? That means the tyveck might be 8 or 10 inches wide and wound around the top cover and bottom of the hive with ends being on one side which you staple. A feed sac would only go from one side to the other going over the cover.

I assume a 4 or 5 medium hive would not blow over either but someone posted a concern. So I thought maybe he is more concerned with the top box and cover shifting because he broke the propolis in cold weather like I did and it won't really stick until it warms up.

Why does anyone strap the hive? I would be more concerned with wind hitting the hive on a continual basis if it was that strong.

Why not use tyveck? It is strong and breathable.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

I don't wrap my hives with anything. 

But Ace's comment about _Tyvek _being "breathable" is correct:
http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Different_Protection/en_GB/properties/breathability.html

One could make the case that Tyvek is a better choice than _tarpaper _(roofing felt), which is commonly recommended for wrapping hives.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

> Poking the bird? Why bring up the past? Can't we move on to a brighter intelligently illuminated future?


Are you suggesting we all ignore the idiocy of this persons posts both past and present?


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## NewbeeInNH (Jul 10, 2012)

We can get really heavy gusts/winds here and the hives are in a fairly open area (in winter, after the foliage dies). 50 mph wind gusts make me nervous as far as catching either a hive and toppling it, or even the cover. The hives are sitting on cement blocks.

About the Tyvek approach, I was planning to strap insulation board around 3 sides of my hives (leaving the south facing side bare), so I hope that's not going to be an issue as far as breathability. I have quilt boxes on the top for condensation and air holes in the quilt boxes as well as a top and bottom hive entrance. That should probably do it for ventilation purposes. 

Tyvek may be more breathable and easier than tarpaper, but I wonder if the black tarpaper wouldn't make more sense in winter. Some people I've talked to are switching from tar paper to black landscape fabric - easier to wrap.

The hives are too heavy to push against each other and pretty set on their cement blocks. They're about 4 feet apart. I like space when I inspect them.

So far I'm pretty convinced with insulation board on 3 sides (duck taped at the corners) and a heavy duty strap (or maybe 2 if I need to criss cross the insulation board).


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

sqkcrk said:


> Why bring up the past? Can't we move on ...





> "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it"- George Santayana​
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Santayana


Many Beesource members find older threads a valuable reference!  _Sometimes_, those older threads even have useful advice from Mark B. Sometimes.

:gh:



And yes, I am _poking _you Mark.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> > Poking the bird?
> 
> Isn't that exactly what you were doing when you made your comment about *adding rocks* to the sack Ace mentio_ned? _


I can see how someone might see it that way. But I was baffled about how stapling a feed sack (an empty feed sack?) to the side of a hive would keep it from falling over. That's why I asked about whether he meant that it should be filled w/ rock first so it would act as ballast. Maybe I shouldn't have asked about rocks? Did he mean a full feed sack? A feed sack full of feed? What?

I wonder how much damage is done by poor information or idle speculation? I try to be careful about what I write here, using personal experience, what I have seen, or what I have read of others doing. Imaginings are fine, I guess. But actual suggestions of something not experienced, tried, or heard reported as a good practice could lead someone less experienced as a beekeeper or beesource reader down the wrong path.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird said:


> Why not use tyveck? It is strong and breathable.


Who has strips of tyvek laying around? When it comes to strapping I wonder where you pull tyvek from? I'm baffled.

Why not use it? Try it and find out.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

NewbeeInNH said:


> We can get really heavy gusts/winds here and the hives are in a fairly open area (in winter, after the foliage dies). 50 mph wind gusts make me nervous as far as catching either a hive and toppling it, or even the cover. The hives are sitting on cement blocks.
> 
> About the Tyvek approach, I was planning to strap insulation board around 3 sides of my hives (leaving the south facing side bare), so I hope that's not going to be an issue as far as breathability. I have quilt boxes on the top for condensation and air holes in the quilt boxes as well as a top and bottom hive entrance. That should probably do it for ventilation purposes.
> 
> ...


Then straps would just be redundant. If concerned about loosing the cover, throw a rock or cinder block on it. A brick or two may not do the job w/ winds like yours.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> And yes, I am _poking _you Mark.


As long as you do so in the right place, I don't mind.

I think Brian's Posts speak for themselves most of the time. Referencing past Posts sometimes seem mean. I guess I should just ignore what others do and say and concentrate on myself. Carry on.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Stapling a feed sack to the side of a hive (assuming the sack wrapped around a hive corner) could work much like binding two injured fingers together with _gauze_. The gauze has no real structure on its own, but under tension can be useful.

Some burlap sacks (I have seen some such sacks used for sheared sheep's wool) are as tall as a person.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

NewbeeInNH said:


> About the Tyvek approach, I was planning to strap insulation board around 3 sides of my hives (leaving the south facing side bare), so I hope that's not going to be an issue as far as breathability.


Insulation board is not breathable. the only escape for moisture would be at the joints. I do not put insulation on the side walls because you want the side walls cooler then the top. That way the condensation occurs on the walls and not the top. Condensation is not bad. Bees need moisture in the winter when they can't get to a water source. If you use foam on the sidewalls you would have to have tyveck strap on first.

Mark, when I mentioned feed sac I was thinking a tyveck bag. I didn't think you could get burlap bags anymore. Tyveck is use as a building wrap. You can get it by the roll at HD or Lowes.

Newbee, 40-50 mph winds is no big deal. It won't tip over the hives. If your hives are elevated on a stand you do want to block the wind from getting under the hives until you have enough snow to do it for you. I highly suggest a wind break. It will mean all the difference and then you can forget the insulation. One more note, tar paper or insulation but not both. The heat that the tar paper absorbs will not go through the insulation.


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## max2 (Dec 24, 2009)

Kidbeeyoz said:


> Australian beekeepers use "Emlock Hive Fasteners" with galvanised steel strapping as shown on this site:- http://www.johnlguilfoyle.com.au/Web pamphlets/Emlock Hive Fastener.pdf


...and they are excellent. Will last for ever.


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## max2 (Dec 24, 2009)

"I know my mentor used a brick because the placement of the brick using direction and the six sides signified what was going on in the hive. "
Could you please explain what the placements meant? Interested.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

sqkcrk said:


> ...... But actual suggestions of something not experienced, tried, or heard reported as a good practice could lead someone less experienced as a beekeeper or beesource reader down the wrong path.



Totally agree. So much written is well....................... surmised....


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## o.molchanov (Oct 21, 2013)

Use them from time to time, but only for multi-hull (3-4 hulls) hives with large store of honey for wintering. In order to prevent their falling to the ground during the storms or strong wind. 

BTW, I have asked this question in another thread of the forum, want to ask people in 'theme' here: what do you think about building a fence (near 2m) around the apiary? Will it be helfpul in avoiding the such situations as wind, wild animals etc?

Thanks!


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## NewbeeInNH (Jul 10, 2012)

Acebird said:


> If your hives are elevated on a stand you do want to block the wind from getting under the hives until you have enough snow to do it for you. I highly suggest a wind break. It will mean all the difference and then you can forget the insulation.


I was going to use the insulation board as a wind break, but strapped directly on the hive instead of standing behind it. Don't want to use hay for a wind break (mice) and I'm not sure what else to use.

The other option is just to go with Bee Cozies. Black, insulated, wrap, they would probably work as windbreak, solar collector, and strap all in one, for I believe around $20-$25 each. (I have 2 hives) In the long run, it might be cheaper than trying to rig something else up, and will last for years.

I don't mind condensation forming on the top because I made nice quilt boxes for the top that will catch the condensation, and they say it also provides a source of water in the winter. I'm excited about those.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

max2 said:


> Could you please explain what the placements meant? Interested.


It means what ever he wanted it to mean. He would commit to memory what each position meant. It might mean, queenless, needs feed, deserves another inspection, high mite count, needs to be split. I am only guessing what the position would mean but with a brick he had a lot of ways to temporarily mark a hive.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Reminds me of an irate beekeeper who was angry w/ me when I Inspected his apiary because I didn't put the bricks back on top of the hive the way they were when I got there. As if I was supposed to know that they were more than just weights, by osmosis?

Like Brian is saying, the orientation of the brick means something to the beekeeper. There is no uniform code amongst beekeepers. A brick laying flat means one thing, standing on end means another, and laying on its side means something else. Which way it is pointing may mean something else.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

NewbeeInNH said:


> I don't mind condensation forming on the top because I made nice quilt boxes for the top that will catch the condensation, and they say it also provides a source of water in the winter. I'm excited about those.


If conditions are right and that condensation freezes the R value goes to near 0 which will generate more frost in the top. One warm day and the bees are drenched. To me these are risky. They may work in your area or they may not. The foam will break the wind but the foam is there when the wind isn't. An actual wind break like a fence will not affect the hive when there is no wind. Go with what you believe in and see if you are happy with your choices. That is what hobby beekeeping is.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

snl said:


> Totally agree. So much written is well....................... surmised....


If you only do what your father did you will never be as good as he was. You are bound to miss something. If you think for yourself and or try what others have done you can do much more than your father did. One way of life is progress and the other usually results in decline.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> Could you please explain what the placements meant? 

Several posts in this thread regarding "brick" hive records:

http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...for-Beeks&p=926676&highlight=brick#post926676
Note the suggestion to paint each side of the bricks a different color.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> Many Beesource members find older threads a valuable reference!  _Sometimes_, those older threads even have useful advice from Mark B. Sometimes.
> 
> :gh:
> 
> ...


But you recall it specifically to repeat it. so how does your quote apply?


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Home Depot, single rachet strap. $3.50-sold seperatly. 15' long.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> But you recall it specifically to repeat it. so how does your quote apply?

DY, you seem to be addressing me, since you quoted me. The substance of your question is not clear. :scratch: (I'm just a little slow today.) Perhaps you could expand on it?


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## NewbeeInNH (Jul 10, 2012)

Lauri, you have the nicest base setup I have ever seen. And perfect for the strap hooks.

Do you keep the hives stacked together, or is that just for winter? How hard is it to move them back apart in spring, if you do?


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

I have used the ratchet straps to hold hives together during transport. Most recently I've just used nylon braided cord, with truckers knots and short pieces of metal drywall edging (as gouge protection) when I'm buttoning up a cardboard nuc for customer transport. It works quite well, especially since I added the gouge protectors.


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

NewbeeInNH said:


> Lauri, you have the nicest base setup I have ever seen. And perfect for the strap hooks.
> 
> Do you keep the hives stacked together, or is that just for winter? How hard is it to move them back apart in spring, if you do?


 These were actually mating nucs early spring,started out as 3 deep frames and a one gallon interior feeder. 
Here's how they looked first half of summer:










I don't take out my queens until they have quite a bit of capped brood, so they stay strong and grow pretty quickly. Moved them into a single 8 frame deep.
Then left to grow to overwintering size. They got bigger than I planed though. They are on a bench sitting on stout sawhorses, only about 2' tall.










Nice for singles so I don't have to bend over to work but too tall for anything much higher than a single deep. The hives are clustered for winter and will be seperated again come spring. I'll ether have to lower the bench onto cinder blocks or break them up into mating nucs again. 
I make my benches out of 1"x 1" cage wire now. That grate material was a salvage deal and I used it up very fast. It is perfect for my wet climate.


Here is a workbench in the making:


















With craft paper on it for painting, etc:


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## NewbeeInNH (Jul 10, 2012)

Beautiful, Lauri. I have a feeling you're running on a few more cylinders than I am.  

Good point about the height.


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Ya, I get myself into trouble every fall with the height issue. I inevitably have to move some hives to lower a bench.


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## chickenia (Apr 13, 2012)

Comic Sans MS]Love it Lauri! What benefit is the wire unless you are using SBB for mites and beetles to fall through? I'm a newbie too  

Also, would not heavy tar paper do about the same thing as insulation board? I am in NC mountains, sixty degrees two days ago a windy 15 today  a friend gave me some of the heavy weight paper, and I wrapped them yesterday and put straps on so it doesn't slip. They have plenty of ventilation as I made a two inch frame with screen on the bottom, small holes on the sides (covered with wire) and cedar chips on the screen and filled it up. I did this last winter and it worked well, but I didn't do the heavy tar paper. I have four hives and there is a tall wind break of pine behind the hives.


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## chickenia (Apr 13, 2012)

Comic Sans MS]Love it Lauri! What is the brown paper over the wire for? I'm a newbie too  Also, would not heavy tar paper do about the same thing as insulation board? I am in NC mountains, sixty degrees two days ago a windy 15 today  a friend gave me some of the heavy weight paper, and I wrapped them yesterday and put straps on so it doesn't slip. They have plenty of ventilation as I made a two inch frame with screen on the bottom, small holes on the sides (covered with wire) and cedar chips on the screen and filled it up. I did this last winter and it worked well, but I didn't do the heavy tar paper. I have four hives and there is a tall wind break of pine behind the hives.


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## NewbeeInNH (Jul 10, 2012)

I finally settled on 1" styrofoam board wrapped in black contractors bag plastic. I wrapped them for one thing because chickens love styrofoam, it's like popcorn to them, so this will protect it. Also, even tho the styrofoam will supposedly block the heat attracted to the black color, maybe it will make a temperature difference even still. I only put it on 3 sides of hives and left the south-facing side with hive entrances exposed, so that they get full advantage of solar heat, plus there is no chance entrances will be blocked. Then I strapped them top and bottom with bungee cords. It was really easy. And today we have our 50 m.p.h. wind gusts, so it will be a good test. I'm really glad I have this protection for the hives this year - including quilt boxes - because last year I really didn't do anything to the hives and they had really small clusters coming through spring. I'm hoping for healthy, large hives in the spring so I can do some splits. Can't wait to talk splits when spring gets closer.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

I'm a bee farmer. Can't afford those fancy, overkill straps. I've used the old farm standby for decades...Baling twine


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Is there a name for that hitch? That is a good way to tie the top to a box. If the cover tries to lift the wrap around the hive will close in and hold even better. I like it.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

The Palmer Hitch.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

if you invented it you are a smart man.:thumbsup:


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Funny thing is, there _actually _is a knot called the "*Palmer Knot*"  
http://onthelake.net/fishing/knots/palomar/palomarknot.htm











OK, its actually a fishing knot, and sometimes also spelled Palomar. :lookout:


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Well I am fine with the Palmer knot or who ever invented it for beekeeping.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Acebird said:


> if you invented it you are a smart man.:thumbsup:


It's really not a big deal. I've tied my covers on this way since I started in the 70s. Tie the string around the hive and move the knot to one side of the hive. Pass the free end over the hive, under the string that goes around the hive, on the close side of the string that goes over the cover, and pull tight. Pass the end under the string that goes around the hive, but on the far side of the one over the top, make a loop, and pull tight. To untie, pull the end and the loop comes undone. It's like tying your shoes.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

It is not the knots per say it is the geometry that makes it work. Kudos to you Mike.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

And yet another style of strap tpo hold down bee hive covers.

Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Brother Adam's mating yard at Dartmoor in Devon, England. 










He used a unique hive stand. The post is concrete, with 4 steel brackets and a wooden platform.










Two of the brackets had metal rings, and attached to those rings was a chain and stainless steel spring. The chain was passed over the roof of the 4 way mating nuc and hooked to the other ring. The spring held the chain tight.










Thought you might enjoy seeing what Br. Adam did.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Michael Palmer said:


> And yet another style of strap tpo hold down bee hive covers.


looks to be holding the hive too because it is elevated.


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