# Experience Necessary



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

I thought I wanted to try my hand at having a hive of honey bees. Now I am not so sure. I only have one hive consisting of 1 deep and 2 medium boxes. From reading this forum I almost feel as though having just one hive is not feasible. Being alone in this endeavor, should I scrap the dream and just buy my honey? I am in SE TN in a very rural location with a few fruit trees and only non intentional wild flowers. Any help or advice is appreciated.


----------



## JustBees (Sep 7, 2021)

If resources are few it's best to not have too many hives.


----------



## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

You can have just the one hive if you wish, however the downside of having only one arises if for some reason that hives queen is lost when there is no young brood and so that hive is then doomed to die. If you have 2 hives there is always the possibility of using the resources of one to rescue the other. Otherwise if you have a friend who has hives he could always help with resources if you should have any problems. Also remember if you grow that single hive you could split it after mid summer.


----------



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

johno said:


> You can have just the one hive if you wish, however the downside of having only one arises if for some reason that hives queen is lost when there is no young brood and so that hive is then doomed to die. If you have 2 hives there is always the possibility of using the resources of one to rescue the other. Otherwise if you have a friend who has hives he could always help with resources if you should have any problems. Also remember if you grow that single hive you could split it after mid summer.


That is what my concern is. Not having that second hive to do a split if need be. I am trying so hard to read and understand what all can happen. I have noone around to rely on for guidance. If I decide to do this should I have the components of another hive on stand-by? Would 2 hives be better than one? Or would there still be issues. If I keep eliminating queen cells is that all it takes to keep just a single or possibly 2 hives going?


----------



## JustBees (Sep 7, 2021)

You will find it is critical to always have extra gear on hand.


----------



## Gray Goose (Sep 4, 2018)

renewbee said:


> That is what my concern is. Not having that second hive to do a split if need be. I am trying so hard to read and understand what all can happen. I have noone around to rely on for guidance. If I decide to do this should I have the components of another hive on stand-by? Would 2 hives be better than one? Or would there still be issues. If I keep eliminating queen cells is that all it takes to keep just a single or possibly 2 hives going?


2 or 3 is better than one.
in spring often 1 is not alive, can splt the other and be back with 2.

yes another set of boxes is needed for the second hive.
If your is doing great it can be split in late April.
Many ways to do a split.

As well if you use for example 1 deep and 1 medium for the "brood" area, you may need 2 or 3 supers for each hive.
you can have less and take honey out more often, replacing the frames with empties.

And with 2 or 3 times the interaction, you will get better that much faster.

GG


----------



## John Davis (Apr 29, 2014)

Eliminating queen cells is not an effective strategy to prevent swarming. It is very easy to miss one especially in a crowded hive.


----------



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

Thanks for the replies so far. I will be picking up a nuc mid April and I guess if I decide to go ahead I will prepare with another setup. I am finding this almost overwhelming.


----------



## Alto Beek (Jun 26, 2021)

renewbee said:


> Thanks for the replies so far. I will be picking up a nuc mid April and I guess if I decide to go ahead I will prepare with another setup. I am finding this almost overwhelming.


I started last year and had similar feelings. I decided that beekeeping does not have to be rocket science, it's been around for hundreds (if not thousands) of years. I just dived in, read some stuff, watched some stuff bought some stuff and it seemed to work OK. Worrying about every detail will drive you nuts - don't do it. Even if you are not successful (by your own standards) it's not the end of the world, life goes on.

Best of luck, try to enjoy the new hobby.


----------



## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

renewbee said:


> I thought I wanted to try my hand at having a hive of honey bees. Now I am not so sure. I only have one hive consisting of 1 deep and 2 medium boxes. From reading this forum I almost feel as though having just one hive is not feasible. Being alone in this endeavor, should I scrap the dream and just buy my honey? I am in SE TN in a very rural location with a few fruit trees and only non intentional wild flowers. Any help or advice is appreciated.


Trees might be your big source of nectar in your area and you may be in a fantastic location. You also need to remember that your bees are not just harvesting the few flowers in you view from the house, but up to three miles in every direction. Two hives or more definately makes life easier but one is certainly OK for a start especially when you have the equipment. Good luck and have fun.


----------



## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

Do you have a local Beekeepers Association?
That can really help when you're getting started.


----------



## GaryA (10 mo ago)

I say: Keep at it! Beekeeping is one of those endeavors that although reading, watching, and discussing with folks helps... nothing beats personal experience. You'll have some troubles, yes, but if you learn from those issues you'll do fine. If it's not too late to get another hive (nuc) and supplies to get another one going, a second hive helps to minimize losses. But it isn't mandatory. And as far as resources are concerned, you'll be amazed at how much pollen and nectar your bees will bring in, even though you might not think there is much out there - they'll do fine.


----------



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

HarryVanderpool said:


> Do you have a local Beekeepers Association?
> That can really help when you're getting started.


I believe there is a local association. I will look into meeting up with them. Thank you.


----------



## G3farms (Jun 13, 2009)

What county are you in?









Tennessee


ANDERSON COUNTY BKPRS ASSOC Clinton, TN www.acbeekeepers.org BEEKEEPERS OF MIDDLE TENNESSEE Franklin, TN http://www.hivetool.com/bmt BLOUNT COUNTY BKPRS ASSOC Maryville, TN http://blountbees.wordpress.com CHEROKEE BKPRS ASSOC Athens, TN http://cherokeebeekeepers.blogspot.com/ CHETHAM COUNTY...




www.beesource.com


----------



## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

It's sounding to me like you are trying to give yourself an excuse to give up before you even get started. Heck, what's the worse that can happen? Bees swarm? Bees don't give you any honey the first year? They die over winter? So what, it's no big loss, there are many hives and you can't do any harm trying out beekeeping. I say get in the saddle and ride, even if just to say you tried it. You might find out it's the most interesting and rewarding thing you've ever done.


----------



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

G3farms said:


> What county are you in?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Marion County. I am pretty sure Hamilton County has an association.


----------



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

RayMarler said:


> It's sounding to me like you are trying to give yourself an excuse to give up before you even get started. Heck, what's the worse that can happen? Bees swarm? Bees don't give you any honey the first year? They die over winter? So what, it's no big loss, there are many hives and you can't do any harm trying out beekeeping. I say get in the saddle and ride, even if just to say you tried it. You might find out it's the most interesting and rewarding thing you've ever done.


I guess in a way you could be correct. So many things to worry about. Have I picked the right area? am I going to be afraid to open the hive to check on them? When do I treat them for mites? Am I going to recognize queen cells...an on and on and on. I also am afraid of killing them. And yes I want honey (for me and family) but don't have the energy to tend a slew of hives.


----------



## ursa_minor (Feb 13, 2020)

renewbee said:


> And yes I want honey (for me and family) but don't have the energy to tend a slew of hives.


I have found that learning beekeeping is the most work but doing the jobs for one or two hives is not. The tasks are easy, having the knowledge to do them is what is hard, it takes time and a willingness to research.


----------



## Arnie (Jan 30, 2014)

You're overthinking it. 
If you want just one hive, then have just one hive. The second hive comes in handy if for instance, your hive goes queenless or some such. But it isn't absolutely necessary. 
Use your deep and two mediums as the permanent set up.
Get two more mediums for honey. Maybe 3.
Two queen excluders.
Get an OAV wand.
Vaporize starting in August, 8 or 9 times at 4 to 7 day intervals. 
Vaporize again 3 or 4 times in early November. 
Around New Year vaporize again. 

Next spring you can use the VanceG swarm prevention method. Easy and effective. Look around here on Beesource and you will find it.

In June you can knock down the mites with a series of 4 or 5 vaporizations.
Then again the 8 or 9 times in August etc.

First time you open a big booming hive is a little intimidating, but the bees will mostly ignore you. Smoke them judiciously and when they get a little testy.

Take your time. Stay calm.

There will be times when you will find something unusual and you don't know what to do. 
At those times do nothing. You will seldom make things worse by closing the hive back up and thinking on it for a day or two. 

Don't be fretful. 
This is fun.

I'm kind of a bad beekeeper, but I somehow manage to keep my hives alive year to year and I get a pretty good crop of honey. 

Remember, you can make it way more complicated than it really is if that's what you like. Or you can keep it simple if that's your preference. 
Up to you 

Did I mention that this is fun?
Fascinating too!
You're gonna love it.


----------



## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

2 hives is my good number, I have limited forage around me, and at 2 hives I get about 50 pounds of honey.


----------



## Wil-7 (Sep 4, 2021)

Arnie said:


> You're overthinking it.
> If you want just one hive, then have just one hive. The second hive comes in handy if for instance, your hive goes queenless or some such. But it isn't absolutely necessary.
> Use your deep and two mediums as the permanent set up.
> Get two more mediums for honey. Maybe 3.
> ...


" Next spring you can use the VanceG swarm prevention method. Easy and effective. Look around here on Beesource and you will find it. "
I would like to read about that myself but a search for me did not find it. Point me in the right direction if you can. I am going through the same withdrawals as the OP.


----------



## Arnie (Jan 30, 2014)

High certainty swarm prevention in dense suburb


Hi all. There are so many good advices on swarm prevention, but having multiple hives in a dense suburb neighborhood I'm looking for the most certain process to prevent swarms without damaging honey production. I'm OK with extra cost (e.g. requeening) if that guarantees no swarming. I have three...




www.beesource.com





Post number 4.


----------



## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

Arnie said:


> High certainty swarm prevention in dense suburb
> 
> 
> Hi all. There are so many good advices on swarm prevention, but having multiple hives in a dense suburb neighborhood I'm looking for the most certain process to prevent swarms without damaging honey production. I'm OK with extra cost (e.g. requeening) if that guarantees no swarming. I have three...
> ...


one thing you could do is remove the queen, some nurse bees and brood to a nuc, leaving workers in a bit of a panic to gather honey. I had a queen die during spring flow one year and they filled that hive with honey (before going laying worker) by removing the queen, and the brood they are more inclined to be focused. Please realize your mileage may vary.


----------



## crofter (May 5, 2011)

I used the Snelgrove board system for five years or so without a swarm but I dont have a very vigorous flow. Snelgrove claimed in his original book that he had about 40 hives on the setup without a swarm but that was in Britain and I dont know what bees he had, so perhaps not remarkable. I live right on the edge of the old town limits and no secret that I am pretty much the only one close so I would get the blame for any swarms, so I am motivated beyond simply the loss of the bees.

It is basically a split but the only extra equipment is the double screened board. They can be bought or not too tricky to make functional ones.


----------



## Arnie (Jan 30, 2014)

Yup, Snelgrove boards work great.


----------



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

Arnie said:


> High certainty swarm prevention in dense suburb
> 
> 
> Hi all. There are so many good advices on swarm prevention, but having multiple hives in a dense suburb neighborhood I'm looking for the most certain process to prevent swarms without damaging honey production. I'm OK with extra cost (e.g. requeening) if that guarantees no swarming. I have three...
> ...


----------



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

So today I joined TVBA. They have a meeting Monday night that I will be attending.Plus tomorrow I am going to pick the brains of the people I am getting the nuc from. I guess those two things should give me the final push. Just have to wait and see which way I fall.


----------



## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

renewbee said:


> So today I joined TVBA. They have a meeting Monday night that I will be attending.Plus tomorrow I am going to pick the brains of the people I am getting the nuc from. I guess those two things should give me the final push. Just have to wait and see which way I fall.


your profile doesn't give state or region, if you needed help with something that depended on weather, etc, it would helpful to know. I checked your initial post, guessing that is Tennessee Valley Bee Association?


----------



## JustBees (Sep 7, 2021)

For me its Tualatin Valley Bee Association


----------



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

Gypsi said:


> your profile doesn't give state or region, if you needed help with something that depended on weather, etc, it would helpful to know. I checked your initial post, guessing that is Tennessee Valley Bee Association?


I tried to edit my profile to include my location. I can't figure out if it is possible. I am not too savvy at this tech/forum stuff. But SE Tennessee. Northwest of Chattanooga in Whitwell.


----------



## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

renewbee said:


> I tried to edit my profile to include my location. I can't figure out if it is possible. I am not too savvy at this tech/forum stuff. But SE Tennessee. Northwest of Chattanooga in Whitwell.


if you want to edit, go to your profile, and go to about, and it will let you set location.


----------



## renewbee (10 mo ago)

I just found that after it was mentioned but it still doesn't show. on the forum pages. Let me try something else.


----------



## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

renewbee said:


> I just found that after it was mentioned but it still doesn't show. on the forum pages. Let me try something else.


 It won't show on the forum pages, but when I hover my mouse over your symbol, the letter J, it shows then.


----------



## A Novice (Sep 15, 2019)

renewbee said:


> Thanks for the replies so far. I will be picking up a nuc mid April and I guess if I decide to go ahead I will prepare with another setup. I am finding this almost overwhelming.


Mostly, if your bees have enough food, and you manage the mites, they will do OK.
Most likely, there is a lot of blooming stuff you don't know about. Unless it is all pines and spruces, everything blooms.
Most honey comes from tree blossoms.
I started with one hive.
It is better to have two, but you can be OK with just one. If you go queenless, you will be in trouble, but you can always get a new queen for $35 or so, so it isn't really a problem.

A bigger problem is when you THINK you are queenless, not having a frame of brood to check if there is a queen. There usually is, but she may be hard to find, and a new queen doesn't start laying right away.
Swarming usually won't be a problem with a first year queen and a package or NUC. The second year is when swarming becomes a problem.

Don't over think it. If you take care of the mites, usually things go OK. And with a package, mites aren't a big problem until fall. With a NUC it depends if the seller treated the NUC effectively.


----------



## JustBees (Sep 7, 2021)

A package is the perfecet time to blast them with OA, NO CAPPED BROOD!


----------

