# Nuc to TBH - Is there an easier way?



## ivashka (Nov 28, 2009)

http://vimeo.com/5614348


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## laurelmtnlover (May 29, 2009)

Very nice video, Phil!


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## Adam Foster Collins (Nov 4, 2009)

I've seen this video. It depicts the process I'm hoping to avoid. It may not be feasible, however...


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

could you slide the top cover back to make room to just set the nuc, minus bottom board, on top of the top bar hive? The bees might expand down into the TBH? Then you could eventually take the nuc off, perhaps even filled with honey later in the year?


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## throrope (Dec 18, 2008)

Adam

I began last year with four Langstroth hives and tried creating a top bar in early spring. I stole a queen with three pierco frames from one of my Langs and put them in a TBH using bars with popsicle sticks. They worked the frames, built burr comb and failed.

I made another attempt with a queen and a dump of worker bees. They clustered in a corner and also failed. I don't think I took enough bees.

A little later I grabbed a swarm from one of my hives. They built out perfect comb on the same popsicle sticks and went into winter with at least 1-1/2 dozen "frames". I haven't checked them yet this year and truly hope they made it. If so, when spring is established, I'll split and feed as many times as I can before next winter.

I also have a top bar nuc and plan another to bait with lemon grass oil and be ready for the next swarm.

Mike Bush and Dennis Murrell got me started through their crush and strain extractor. Bees are fun, but at 300 bucks for an extractor, honey even at the hoydie toydie stores is cheaper. BTW, no cranking with their extractor. My latest addition is a 5 gallon bucket on a 12' telescoping paint stick with lid that pulls closed by a cord as mentioned by Mike. I'm hoping this will help capture a swarm without climbing a tree.

I wish you luck. Please share if successful.


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## buckbee (Dec 2, 2004)

Adam Foster Collins said:


> I've seen this video. It depicts the process I'm hoping to avoid. It may not be feasible, however...


As long as your bees are reasonably quiet (a water mist spray helps if they are not) the transfer is actually pretty easy. It helps to have an assistant who is good with pruning shears.

If you don't want to do it, just shake them all in, cut one comb containing brood to shape and put it in the new hive so the nurse bees have something to do. They will soon start building new comb.


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## Adam Foster Collins (Nov 4, 2009)

In the video, I see Phil is using the follower board as a template. Does this create problems with a lack of space along the edge? Do they tend to glue them in place?

Adam


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## buckbee (Dec 2, 2004)

Adam Foster Collins said:


> In the video, I see Phil is using the follower board as a template. Does this create problems with a lack of space along the edge? Do they tend to glue them in place?


They have never done that to me yet. They round off the comb at its edges and leave a bee-space beteen it and the walls.


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## Ron Ward (Mar 23, 2009)

Let me preface my comment with the fact that I am a newbee also:

My method is to build a TBH that is the width on a standard hive, and use topbars in a standard hive, beside the nuk frames, to get them started before transferring them to the TBH.

Any thought on the feesability of this method, before I start cutting...


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## Zonker (Mar 10, 2010)

I keep thinking about making my tbh's square so the the nucs would fit. I read that it doesn't effect the comb attachment.


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## Ron Ward (Mar 23, 2009)

I suppose it would work for a while...as I hear it... the reason for the sloping sides is to discourage attaching to the walls...bees will attach to the sides, but not so much the bottom...by angling the sides it fools them into thinking the sides are actually the bottom.

I know they will attach bottom bars from upper stories to top bars in lowers bodies.

I may just go with a long hive...using the standard frames...mainly I am looking for a NO-LIFTING method of beeking

good luck...whatever you decide...


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