# Swarm traps - Include frames or not?



## Adam Foster Collins (Nov 4, 2009)

Looking around more I can see you probably want them to make the transition easier...


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## robherc (Mar 17, 2012)

Use the frames, or at least use top bars with comb guides...saves you AND the bees a lot of work+frustration later


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## standman (Mar 14, 2008)

I like to use one complete frame with old comb or a foundationless frame in the center of the swarm trap. Then I fill it on each side with top bars with a comb guide cut on the bottom of each one. As robherc suggested, it makes it a lot easier when you get ready to transfer them to a regular hive.


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## bevy's honeybees (Apr 21, 2011)

I am using foundationless frames with wood guide for all but 1 frame of drawn comb, and lemongrass oil. 

In the 4 catches I've gotten so far, they are drawing perfect comb. I set out 3 more bait hives yesterday same way. yes, makes everything easier later, just transfer frames when they're ready.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

I am putting one frame with comb (mostly drawn from a cut out), one plastic (with extra wax) and struggling to figure out what else to add to the traps (since I have 6 new traps not that much extra gear) I have some wax shallows, and plastic coated mediums (none drawn). I also have some old odd ball frames (not quite deeps) would the suggestion be to nail a wedge to it and call it good? Also I would have thought the drawn by the side of the box but sounds like center is winning on this poll? With that laundry lists, suggestions?


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## robherc (Mar 17, 2012)

minz said:


> I also have some old odd ball frames (not quite deeps) would the suggestion be to nail a wedge to it and call it good?


If it were me, I'd chop the sides of those odd-ball frames down to shallow height, leave the bottom bars off, and tack in a comb guide. That way you've turned incompatible equip. Into nearly universal equip, and put it to use catching swarms.


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## LetMBee (Jan 4, 2012)

I would just keep it as simple as possible. I Started out using 5 frames total, 1 drawn old black comb (placed in the center) and 4 foundation less frames. It was not enough. The bees were building on all of those then starting on the lid of the trap. I started putting 8 frames in. It works better. If you do have comb stuck to the lid of your trap one of my YouTube videos shows how I cut it loose with a wire (I used a guitar string in the video). Don't make the mistake of only putting 1 frame in there.  you will make a lot of extra work for yourself.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

I catch 10 to 15 per year and here is how I do it. Not saying it is THE WAY TO DO IT, just saying this is how I do it, and it works for me every time. 

I use only 10 frame deeps. Old ones ready to be thrown away. I put two dark brood combs against the left side of the deep. Then two frames of foundation. This leaves a lot of open area (six frames worth). Rarely ever have they dropped a comb in the hive. I check my traps about every 10 days to two weeks, and when I find a swarm in them, they are virtually always on the two brood combs and drawing on the two foundations. Lots of bees will be cleaning this old equipment. Almost never have they started to drop comb beyond the two foundation frames.

When I find them, I transfer the 4 frames into a good box and take them to one of my yards. Put two dark brood combs and two frames foundation back in the trap and check it again in two weeks. Afterswarms often come to the same box.

I say do, whatever works for you.

cchoganjr


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