# where do I find info to build a TBH



## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Here are some links:

http://www.pinterventions.org/beekeeping_in_africa.htm
http://www.ccdemo.info/GardenBees/CK5/CK5.html
http://www.pinterventions.org/Beekeeping/English/Module 7_Making_Equipment.PDF
http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/my_tbh.html
http://outdoorplace.org/beekeeping/
http://nanaimo.ark.com/~cberube/ktbh.htm
http://nanaimo.ark.com/~cberube/5.htm
http://outdoorplace.org/beekeeping/kenya.htm
http://nanaimo.ark.com/~cberube/images/ktbhplan.gif
http://www.badassbees.com/observe/observe.html
http://www.rupertshoney.co.za/rh/index.htm
http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm
http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/ecobee.htm
http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/tboverv2.htm
http://www.ibiblio.org/pub/academic...management/top_bar_faqs/top_bar_hive_lore.txt
http://bwrangler.litarium.com/

There is no one way to build one. So far my last two are my favorites. I like the long medium. I just took two one by eights 47 1/4" long and cut a 3/8" wide and 3/4" deep rabbet on them. These are the sides. The ends are a one by eight 19 7/8" long with a lap joint on the sides. This makes a three box long Langstroth medium box with a deep rabbet and 3/4" space left at the bottom (if you put in frames). So it's 48 3/4" by 19 7/8" by 7 3/8". I put #8 hardware cloth on the bottom to make a SBB but you could make it solid just as easily. I use three migratory covers for lids. I put a spacer on the front one to make the entrance. The top bars are 19" long by 3/8" thick by 1 1/4" wide (in the brood nest and 1 1/2" wide when they start storing honey). I started them in a five frame medium nuc and the top bar combs are interchanable with medium frames.

http://incolor.inetnebr.com/bush/images/LongHive1.JPG
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/bush/images/TTBHOpen.JPG
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/bush/images/TTBHOpen.JPG

But the KTBH is easier to make it's two peices of one by twelve 47 1/4" long and two peices of one by twelve 15" long and one pice of one by six 47 1/4" long. No angles are cut. They are all sqaure.

At the top of this page are pictures of assembling it:

http://incolor.inetnebr.com/bush/bush_bees.htm

Click on the thumbnails for the bigger pictures.

The bars on this one are cut from one bys so they are 3/4 thick. Again the brood area is 1 1/4" and the honey area is 1 1/2". The comb guide is the corner of a one by cut at 45 degrees and nailed and glued in the center of the bar. They are cut to the inside space so the guide keeps the bar from sliding sidways and keeps it centered in the hive.

Everyon has their own favorite. But I've concluded that I like the small combs. They don't collapse, they are easy to handle and they work fine.


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## beebiz (Feb 5, 2005)

Hi Patrick,

Well, I was going to post a link or two, but Michael beat me to it! LOL

* Here's what I meant to say the first time out:* 
If you find a set of plans that you like but they are in cm and mm, the conversion is rather easy. Remember 1) there are 10mm in 1cm, and 2) there are 2.54cm in an inch or 25.4mm in an inch. Just grab the ole calculator and let it do the hard work!! For example, if you know something is 122cm long, on the calculator you key in "122 divided by 2.54" and you should get an answer like 48.03196, which is roughly 48 inches.
* I am so sorry for any confucian I have caused. *

Hope this helps!

Bee Good,
beebiz


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## limulus (Feb 10, 2004)

Before anyone cuts anything
10mm to 1cm
2.54cm to 1 inch or 24.4 mm to 1 inch


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## beebiz (Feb 5, 2005)

* I just decided it best to get rid of this one!! *


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## justgojumpit (Apr 9, 2004)

if it's 2.54 cm to the inch then it will be 25.4 mm to the inch, not 24.4 mm. let's get these conversions straight before anyone starts cutting guys!

justgojumpit


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## limulus (Feb 10, 2004)

Wow, I made a typo while correcting another typo. We all need a little more caffeine







.
Although with my woodworking technique I am not sure a 1 mm error would even be noticed ;0.
Thanks for the catch justgojump it. Maybe this is a prime example of why there is so much confusion when it comes to cell sizes.


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## BWrangler (Aug 14, 2002)

Hi Patrick, 

Check out those links and see how others have applied the principles of building a top bar hive. Actually, there's only one principle and that's the width of the top bar. Some have found 1 1/4" to be preferrable. But 1 3/8" has probably been used by most. Everything else is the builders choice since the bees don't care and there is no standard equipment available for them.

So design one that suits you best. Don't worry about the slope of the sides or anything other than the top bar width. Make it fit your needs and use the materials available to you. Take some photos and share your results. If after a year or so you have additional ideas, modify or make a new one as tbhs are easy to modify and cheap to build. 

Regards
Dennis
Having never seen a tbh I didn't like and learn something from :>)


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## beebiz (Feb 5, 2005)

limulus, you say that you think that we need a little more caffeine, but what probably caused my goofs was TOO MUCH cafeine that day (more than 2 times what I normally have)! My brain was buzzing around in my skull like a hive of PO'd bees on a hot, cloudy, rainy day!!

Dennis, the ease of construction, the lack of expense, and not having heavy supers and bodies for my back to contend with are the main reasons that I have chosen the TBH's. Like you, I've found that the only critical measurement is the width of the bar. I too find recommendations of 1 1/4" and 1 3/8", but the 1 3/8"s seem to have the majority!

Bee Good,
beebiz


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