# Nails or screws for rabbet joint



## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

Sounds like nails are the norm. but I like the idea of the screw holding more pressure on the joint while the glue sets up , anyone using screws and what size and length for rabbet joint . A small dia. with small head would be less likely to split the wood and pre drill with pilot hole .


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

I've been using what are known as "trim screws", mainly because I have them around. Exactly what you describe. No need to drill a pilot hole. They come in stainless steel or phophate coating with a square drive that will easily drive the head below the surface of the wood.


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

i use #8 x 1 1/4" and i pre drill thru the cross grain in a drill press. i pre mark drill holes with a template. the screws should be coated exteior preferably rated for treated wood, in other words the most corosion resistant ones. the pre drilling not only prevents splits but also allows you to pull the joint tighter. i also use titepbond III glue. i have used # 6 screws and used up a package of stainless screws. most of the hive bodies i make are 7/8 thick hemlock.the #6 may be better for 3/4 thick woods that tend to split. this seems to go fast with out any splitting. after cutting the wood and scouping the hand holds it drives me nuts to split a piece.


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## Dconrad (Jul 3, 2012)

I don't use nails or screws I like to use titebond III glue and 1-1/2 x 1/4 round stapels I think the glue on it's own would hold the box together but you have to have something to hold it together while it dries. I also like how fast you can assemble a box with the Nail/Stapel gun no pre drilling and no splitting. just my 2 cents


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## beemilk (Sep 12, 2012)

I use galvanized ring-shanked nails with titebond III. 1 1/2 inches long, designed for putting up exterior half-log siding. They don't rust, split the wood, or pull out. An alternative would be the use of #8 galvanized ardox (sprial) nails, but the possibility of splitting the wood is a little greater.


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## KPeacock (Jan 29, 2013)

I've used brads and staples. After the glue has dried, I've tried flexing teh boxes to see what kind of strength they have. I"m pretty convinced that there is no way they will come apart during anything close to normal use. Of course time will take it's toll. With a healthy dose of TBIII, I don't think the choice of hardware is going to make or break the construction. Using an air nailer or stapler certainly speeds things up!


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## BoilerJim (Apr 15, 2011)

As a couple of others have mentioned, I also use Titebond III and staples. Two years outdoor weathering and use and still going strong.


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## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

I use no 8 by 1 5/8 drywall screws. 4 per edge on deeps 3 on supers. Stay 3/4 off the bottom.and below the frame lip and splitting is not an issue. I have about 400 boxes like that. make sure you hold them "square" when you put the screws in. there is no tweaking afterwards, you pull the screws and flip sides around.


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## KPeacock (Jan 29, 2013)

gmcharlie said:


> I use no 8 by 1 5/8 drywall screws. 4 per edge on deeps 3 on supers. Stay 3/4 off the bottom.and below the frame lip and splitting is not an issue. I have about 400 boxes like that. make sure you hold them "square" when you put the screws in. there is no tweaking afterwards, you pull the screws and flip sides around.



With th staples, i don;t hold them square. I glue up, put one staple in each corner , then i square it up and let loose a torrent of staples. My shop is not well outfitted for wood working. I"m a metal guy, so my clamps aren't well suited to hive making. 

If only i could weld the hives together...


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## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

Well I don't glue. so we all have our vices! Forgot to mention no glue. makes repair easier shuld it need it. the bees do a fine job on there own.


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## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

I was hoping to find a # 6 deckmate style screw , lifetime corrosion free , star drive , I use there #8 screws on all my wood projects the best I have found so far but the smaller dia. seem harder to find. I have had drywall screws rust so I wanted to stay away from them , they don't have near the coating on them that deck screws have for treated wood .


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> I was hoping to find a # 6 deckmate style screw , lifetime corrosion free , star drive 

McFeely's has just about every screw you could want, particularly in square drive. Here's a star drive #7 in stainless steel:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/071...rews-316-Stainless-Steel-Flat-Head-Star-Drive

A #6 square drive, stainless steel:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/061...Screws-Stainless-Steel-Flat-Head-Square-Drive


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## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

Thanks for the link , I found them too , was hoping to find them locally if possible its nice to look at what your getting sometimes , but if I can't I'll give them a try . Not sure why a smaller dia. deck trim screw is so hard to find , I'll check out lowes and home depot and see what they have on the shelve.

I was afraid #8 might be to big and more apt to split , I have them on hand , but if I drill pilots they would probably work too .


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

I use deck screws in finger joints (I feel that they will not pull out so I only need them in one side). I liked the red ones with the torx heads but when I went to the big box closer to my house they only had them in 20 lb boxes so I got something else with a standard Phillips and did not like them because the finish would come off where the driver would bounce (nobody talked about drivers yet).
I used #10 x 2” for screwing my bottom boards together. I think the TB III is too thick to go where I want it, I use Tightbond II in small amounts. Talked to the MFG and they said “I was good unless it was going to remain submerged and “ UV will eat it if exposed so paint it”.


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