# mouse guard/reducer



## bee_wrangler (Jan 21, 2007)

I use #2 hardware cloth to keep the mice out. It is usually available at your locak hardware store. #2 means 2 open spaces in the wire per inch or 1/2 inch squares in the mesh.

Dan


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## Eaglerock (Jul 8, 2008)

Entrance reducers are what I use. I have them on now, in winter, because is had been cold at night.

Screen would work easily, one big enough for bees to get through but not mice.


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## brooksbeefarm (Apr 13, 2008)

*mouse gards*

LIke Eaglerock,I use mouse gards,mine are wood with a 3"wide and 3/8"high opening in the middle.It looks to me like a mouse could get in if he wanted to,but i!v never had one do it?


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I use those universal metal guards. They work pretty good. I leave the wooden reducers in behind them. Most of the drones are pretty much gone by now, at least I didn't see any when I peeked in a few hives earlier this week.


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## Oldbee (Sep 25, 2006)

I had the experience of a mouse gnawing away one of those wood entrance reducers to gain,..'entrance'; the hive was lost. I have since gone to the all metal reducers [3/8 by 4 inch space] with the flange on both sides. My hives are near a corn field, and except for the 8 to 10 foot radius of grass that I cut around the hives, it is tall grass. I cut pieces of wood to make my own entrance reducers that are behind the metal ones during the winter. About every two weeks during the winter, I scrape away the dead bees that have accumulated in back of the mouse guard; about 3-6 inches deep. I only have 4 hives.


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## Eaglerock (Jul 8, 2008)

Ravenseye said:


> I use those universal metal guards. They work pretty good. I leave the wooden reducers in behind them. Most of the drones are pretty much gone by now, at least I didn't see any when I peeked in a few hives earlier this week.


That is a different way. hmmmm I like wood, but having the medal in front of the wood, if having a problem, would be a good idea. 
BTW, Your wife said I can have all your girls. Your married!


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I like leaving the reducers in behind them so the breeze gets knocked down a bit. The mouse guards have holes all the way across so the reducer behind it acts like a wall.

Go ahead...take the girls!!!!!


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## Irene S (Feb 7, 2008)

Ravenseye said:


> I like leaving the reducers in behind them so the breeze gets knocked down a bit. The mouse guards have holes all the way across so the reducer behind it acts like a wall.
> 
> Go ahead...take the girls!!!!!


yea I was thinking those metal mouse guards have alot of holes..

doubling up is the way to go. :thumbsup: . THANKS


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## Bee-View Farm (Sep 21, 2008)

Irene S said:


> I'm not sure what kind of about entrance reducers / mouse guard I should use. :scratch:
> 
> It's getting cold up here, my veg garden got 'frosted' last night (I'm in northwest CT, USA)
> 
> ...



This is what i use. My mom, dad, and grandpa all used this reducer. As for mice. If the hive is strong, the bee's will take care of them!


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## iddee (Jun 21, 2005)

All my bottom boards are 3/8 opening, so I don't use mouse guards.


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## dcross (Jan 20, 2003)

Bee-View Farm said:


> As for mice. If the hive is strong, the bee's will take care of them!



Not in my experience. Once the cluster forms, even the strongest hive is easy pickings.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I've had strong hives decimated by mice before. They seem to eat everything including the bees. Of course they only move in after the bees are clustered and once they have a good nest to protect them they make it all the way to spring.


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