# Question to Michael Bush



## Cold Bees (May 18, 2007)

*TBH covers*

You might look at these plans:
http://bwrangler.litarium.com/kenyan-top-bar-hive/, I'll be building one like this also.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>My question is about the lid: it looks like you just used a piece of plywood with a rock?

It is.

> With a 3/4 inch top bar propping it up to form the top entrance

All of the top bars hold it up above the edge. There are no extras, but it was a warped piece of plywood so there is a gap in the center. You could prop it up if you like.

> does the lid warp a lot?

It was a warped peice of plywood when I cut it for the lid. It has not warped any more and has probably straightened out some from the weight of the bricks on top.

> And do you have mice getting in??

If there are no bees, yes. But with the top entrance and bees in it, no.

> I had a mouse cause a lot of damage last winter...

They are a pain.

>Do you have easy to build instructions for a telescoping lid?

I never built one. Do you mean for the Top Bar Hive? It would only complicate a very simple plan. If you want the plans for a Langstroth hive there are here:
http://www.beesource.com/plans/10frlang.pdf

The concept would be the same for a top bar hive but the dimensions would change.

>What's your take on screened bottom boards?

I like them on my regular hives for ventilation, for keeping a dry bottom board and for doing mite drop counts. But lately, while expanding, I've been buying solid boards so I can double them as feeders.

On a top bar hive they are unnecessary unless you want them to do mite counts. But a powdered sugar roll does as well.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm#SBB


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## space bee (Jan 16, 2006)

Thank you Michael!
I built 2 hives by myself following your instructions, no problems so far. Will get someone to show me how to rip boards for the bars. My bees have been delayed for yet another week, so I have a few more days to figure this out. I really like the simplicity of your hive design. We'll see how it works out for the bees in upstate NY.


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## julesbeek (Jun 1, 2007)

*another question for Michael, re: the design specs for tbh*

Greetings,
I have purchased the lumber to make a tbh from the plans on your website, Michael. However, neither I nor the lumber folks could figure out what this part meant:

34- triangles cut from the corner of a one by 3/4" by 3/4" by 1" by 13" 

They weren't sure what dimension of wood that is, nor was I. Could you put it in a way that a 3rd grader could understand?  I'm ready to rip the other lumber, but need to get this tbh together for this weekend for some friends. I can see that the triangles are glued and nailed to the top bars, but I'm still baffled as to how to cut them. 

thanks!

julesbeek


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## Hanover Honey (Mar 26, 2008)

it is a 13 inch long stick that is triangular in shape. On side is 1 inch wide and the other two sides are 3/4 inch wide.
You make this by first cutting 3/4x3/4 inch square sticks that are 13 inches long. Then you set your table saw to a 45 degree angle and cut them exaclty in half the long way. That will do it.

Sorry Michael, for answering. I know it was asked to you but... oh well I can't help myself sometimes.


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## julesbeek (Jun 1, 2007)

*ahh, that makes sense*

Heck, I don't care WHO answers the question, as long as someone does.  Is this necessary for the bees to build the comb? In other words, if I just stuck the top bars in there, I assume they would build comb all cattywumpus. Just trying to see if I can save myself some cutting if possible.

I've only ever used Langs before, so this is an experiment.

thanks!
julesbeek


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## Hanover Honey (Mar 26, 2008)

Yes you need to give them some sort of guide centered on each bar or they will go every wich way with the comb. It doesn't have to be the 3/4x3/4x1 strips, but you need a guide.


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## Tomas (Jun 10, 2005)

Here’s a couple photos of my top bar hives. They are nothing fancy but they work for me in Honduras. I tend to be frugal and look to recycle things in order to cut costs (such as the pieces from tin cans to help make the sides or the thinner boards from pallets for the bottom).

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s313/Tomas_fotos/top-barhive.jpg

I use the aluminum plates from printing plants, such as from a newspaper, to cover the top and keep it dry. It’s held on with a simple bungee cord I made using a piece of car inner tube and string. It’s hooked to a nail down below and is easy to get on and off. I don’t believe it causes problems with over heating. I do have combs falling from the top bars once in a while but that could also be caused by carelessness on my part.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s313/Tomas_fotos/16Oct06018.jpg

I use screen bottoms on my top bar hives. I just screen the middle section over the brood nest area. I did it for both ventilation purposes and for mite control. The verdict is still out on my part as to whether it actually helps that much (but it doesn’t hurt anything either so better to have it just in case). 

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s313/Tomas_fotos/top-barhiveinsideview.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s313/Tomas_fotos/top-barhivewithscreenedbottom.jpg

I don’t do any fancy angled cutting for my top bars. I cut a shallow groove in the center and use a starter strip. It works just fine for me.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s313/Tomas_fotos/topbarswithstarterstrips.jpg
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Tom


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## Aram (May 9, 2006)

I got to see one of Space Bee's hives on Monday. It looked awesome! Congratulations for taking it on! And congratulations to Michael for coming up with such a genially simple plan! As Space Bee said $30 worth of lumber and the guys at the yard cut all the boards to size. Anyone waiting on the sidelines should give it a try.
MB KTBH


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