# Question on wintering.



## Jayson (Jun 7, 2016)

Hello all. New/soon to be beekeeper here. Have been doing my research in preparation for starting up in spring of 2017 and so far I am drawn to Topbar hives. Mostly for the fact of being much simpler to build and secondly my back is not what it used to be and the thought of lifting 30 kg boxes is a real deterant.
One of the big questions I have not found an answer to is will a TBH survive in zone 6a/b...I live basically right where it starts to change. We get a decent amount of snow but winter temps rarely drop below -15c.


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## Dandy Lion (Aug 31, 2014)

Hi Jayson. I'm in 5b and have overwintered now. I did fail my first year, but I realized in my second year that the hive wasn't as strong as I had thought going into winter and I gave the 2nd year group better windbreaks. If you do get bees, no matter which hive style you go with, start with at least 2. You'll be able to compare how they are doing, and share resources if one needs some help.


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## Chuck Jachens (Feb 22, 2016)

The key is to slow down heat loss. The best insulation value needs to be over the bars. When the bees cluster, you can feel the heat through the bars. Nice way to check where the cluster is. 
The sides should be thick enough to slow down heat loss but not as good as above the top bars. You want any moisture to condense on the sides, not on the top bar where it could drip on the cluster. 

During the winter I would recommend having a bottom board. I like a screen bottom with a bottom board above 2.5 inches below the screen. I leave the screen bottom open in the spring through the fall. You will need to base your choice on your local conditions and management.


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## Jayson (Jun 7, 2016)

Thanks for the tips. I am planning on a removable bottom board for winter as well as using 2x10 rather then 1x10 lumber. Cost difference isnt unreasonable to me for double the insulation. Am planning on keeping Buckfast bees which I can get from a breeder less then 30km from my house.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>One of the big questions I have not found an answer to is will a TBH survive in zone 6a/b

Mine are in zone 5A. Dennis Murrel's are in zone 4. Many people have them in cold climates.


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## hulstbee (Apr 25, 2014)

I started last year and overwintered all 3 of my Top Bars, Zone 4. My hives are 1.5" thick, roofs with an attic. For the Winter I added 2" polystyrene to the top and sides, 1" poly under the roof directly on top of the bars, also a 2" poly piece on the back side of the divider inside the hive. 1" upper entrance hole on the end, 2 other holes corked shut. I think the upper entrance is key for letting excess moisture out, would sometimes frost almost shut when really cold. I have screened bottoms with a thin bottom board that slides in to close it, but I also added another layer of 3/4" pine below this to better insulate. Since these are really sealed up tight, I drilled two 3/16" holes through that bottom piece near each end, drilled at an angle. This allows a tiny bit of air to enter the bottom and filter around the thinner bottom board and create an air "draw" which aids in the excess moisture leaving through the entrance hole. Seemed to work well. Good luck!


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## sakhoney (Apr 3, 2016)

boy - i feel for you boys up north on wintering bees (or anything else)


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## Titus_TN (Jun 13, 2016)

http://www.backyardhive.com has a set of insulation panels to strap on for wintering. You might be able to build to their specifications or construct a similar contraption.


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## Rydalch (Mar 29, 2016)

hulstbee,

I'm in zone 4 also and have been wondering how I will overwinter my TBH. It sounds like you have done really well...do you have pictures that show what all that you have explained looks like?


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## Jayson (Jun 7, 2016)

Thanks for all the responses!


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