# Bottom boards to pallets



## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

I would set them on your pallets early morning or evening and move them a few miles. After a few weeks you should be able to move them back if you choose or even switch them with an existing yard if that works out better. We have often done the ole "double switch" when a yard just needs moved a very short distance by simply switching it with an existing yard. Your gonna love being palletized Johnny the possibilities are endless.


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## Beetrucker74 (Oct 10, 2010)

Why not use a pallet the you can just put your hives on bottom board and all. We do this with 6ways but it would work with 4ways.


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

There are a number of us in Oregon that do as Beetrucker suggests.
Having hives on individual bottom boards, on specially made pallets provides the ultimate in fexibility.
If I am moving just a few pallets, I sometimes load with the forklift and then unload with the boom.
When I used to take bees into the desert 185 miles away, I would load with the forklift, drive through the night and unload in the cool air with the boom rather than drag a forklift all the way there for no good reason.
The trip back was a different story. Now you are loading in the evening in the heat with the boom but thank heavens you can unload with the forklift when you get home tired.
Other times a grower just needs a few hives and booming just makes more sense to me.










A lot depends on what kind of bottom boards you are using. Unfortunatly, the only ones sold are those cheap, flimsey, reversable pieces of junk. Why don't people sell migratory bottom boards? I don't get it!!?










All of my bottom boards are made on a jig. They are identical and HEAVY DUTY!!
Anyway, this is one other option.


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

Here is a side view so you can get an idea of our pallet design. notice that there is room undernieth the bottom boards to slide the forks of the boom cradle into.


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## Jim 134 (Dec 1, 2007)

Broke-T said:


> We currently have a little over 200 hives, all with solid bottom boards. We are not migratory but often need to move hives around to new yards. We plan to build 4 way pallets this summer and start converting to them. For those who have converted, how did you do this? I was thinking about working at night and moving the pallet to new yard as soon as converted would cause least disruplion to hives.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Johnny


http://www.meyerhoneyfarms.com/clips.html

If you use this tape of pallet with pallet clips you do NOT need Bottom boards
IMHO you do need forks to move the pallet 

BEE HAPPY Jim 134


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Thats practically exactly what I build, except I keep mine as a two hive pallet instead of a four. My EzyLoader lifts doubles and not pallets of four. 

I dont know if I understand your original question, 
we arranged the yard originally in pairs, placed the pallet/bottom board behind them and simply lifted them onto the new bottom board pallet. 
Easy breezy


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

One of the best things about this site it the passion of the beekeeper who contribute to this site. 
Love it, Keep it all coming !


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## Broke-T (Jul 9, 2008)

Ian, most of our yards are set up with 4 hives per stand all facing one way. I was thinking if we set a pallet down and place the 4 hives on the pallet the 2 facing the original way would get all the returning foragers from all 4. Thats the reason I planned to move to pallet and then move to new yard. Just wondering how others did it.

Johnny


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## dback (Jan 8, 2012)

Broke......I don't have the time to do this....but, if you have the time you could always simply swing two of the hives (of the four) around a foot or so every couple of days over the course of a week or so until they are in position and not have to move them anywhere. Then simply place them on pallets........maybe not what you're looking for. We normally move hives onto other pallets in the dark as we are moving them and they wake up in another location none the wiser.

........but, we are half-assed beekeepers after all.......


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Broke-T said:


> Ian, most of our yards are set up with 4 hives per stand all facing one way. I was thinking if we set a pallet down and place the 4 hives on the pallet the 2 facing the original way would get all the returning foragers from all 4. Thats the reason I planned to move to pallet and then move to new yard. Just wondering how others did it.
> 
> Johnny


can you turn two of those hives a few days before you bring in the pallets?
then when you lift them onto the new pallets they will be somewhat orientated
I wouldnt worry about it too much, they will sort themselves out


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## Markt (Feb 8, 2012)

Ian, do you find that 2 hive pallets are more prone to tipping than 4? Been thinking of palletizing but would like to still be able to point all entrances east to catch the morning sun. Or do you think it's that big of deal?


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

No , I dont think its a big deal but thats just me. I keep many yards and not all point the right way. If I had the opportunity to do so, I think I would. 
My double pallets are slick and suit my operation. I load them onto the trailer with my loader arm, and unload inthe yard with my skidder grabbing two rows at a time. but Not quite as slick as working four ways.
Another reason I really like double hive arrangements is that I have the ability to sit around an to the back side of the hives when working them. In four ways your sitting directly besides them, more reaching.

no worries on tipping


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## Markt (Feb 8, 2012)

Hmm... Good food for thought thanks. I suppose with four hive pallets there would also be more chance of one of those hives being pissed off, in which case you'd have to put up with being beside it while working the other three


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## RichardsonTX (Jul 3, 2011)

Harry, thanks for sharing the pictures of your bottom boards. I was just getting ready to build the bottom boards for my new hives this year and I'm going to use this design instead of the standard reversible bottom board.


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## patricksull (Jun 1, 2017)

Ian said:


> No , I dont think its a big deal but thats just me. I keep many yards and not all point the right way. If I had the opportunity to do so, I think I would.
> My double pallets are slick and suit my operation. I load them onto the trailer with my loader arm, and unload inthe yard with my skidder grabbing two rows at a time. but Not quite as slick as working four ways.
> Another reason I really like double hive arrangements is that I have the ability to sit around an to the back side of the hives when working them. In four ways your sitting directly besides them, more reaching.
> 
> no worries on tipping



Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but I have been looking (unsuccessfully) for a plan of Ian's bottom boards. I know that he uses pallets, which I do not want as I live in a very rainy climate, but I really really like the idea of a 2-hive bottom board that allows me to tip the hives back to assess the hive quickly and effortlessly. I currently use the standard screened bottom boards on my hives (total of 10 hives) that are commonly used. I want to keep a screened bottom board due to all the moisture I get, but need suggestions on how to make a sturdy, screened bottom board that accommodates easy tipping of the hives.

Cheers


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## Saskie (Mar 12, 2017)

patricksull said:


> Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but I have been looking (unsuccessfully) for a plan of Ian's bottom boards. I know that he uses pallets, which I do not want as I live in a very rainy climate, but I really really like the idea of a 2-hive bottom board that allows me to tip the hives back to assess the hive quickly and effortlessly. I currently use the standard screened bottom boards on my hives (total of 10 hives) that are commonly used. I want to keep a screened bottom board due to all the moisture I get, but need suggestions on how to make a sturdy, screened bottom board that accommodates easy tipping of the hives.
> 
> Cheers


I run mine on single hive bottoms, and can easily tip hives to assess strength. The 2 key points of my bottom design (very similar to Harry's) that I find makes this easy is that my bottom cleats go under the landing board (not just under the box: make sure it is partly under the box however), and the 3/4 strips that the box rests on go all the way to the front of the landing board, not just under the box. I use double headed nails where the inner corner of the box sits to keep it lined up when moving.


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## patricksull (Jun 1, 2017)

Saskie said:


> I run mine on single hive bottoms, and can easily tip hives to assess strength. The 2 key points of my bottom design (very similar to Harry's) that I find makes this easy is that my bottom cleats go under the landing board (not just under the box: make sure it is partly under the box however), and the 3/4 strips that the box rests on go all the way to the front of the landing board, not just under the box. I use double headed nails where the inner corner of the box sits to keep it lined up when moving.



Thanks for the quick reply Saskie. This sounds doable for sure. Any chance of a picture? Don't want to be a bother...next time you're in the bee yard....


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## Saskie (Mar 12, 2017)

Hopefully these get the idea across  (bottom boards are my current construction project on the go). I found that 1/2 plywood was too thin as it would sag as the bottom aged, so switched to 3/4 ply. I think this could be easily adapted to a screened design. As for tipping the hive, I will tip the back up rather than the front as it is very stable this way and doesn't slip off.



































I would like to see a picture of Harry's pallets without bottoms on them, as I am wanting to switch from flat recycled pallets to a dedicated bee pallet.


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## Gazelle (May 17, 2015)

Harry, do you have a pic of your B.B. JIG? Those look really nice!


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

I run a variety of equipment sizes (for nuc and queen production) and made pallets to accommodate bottom boards. I run all deeps and need to be able to tip the larger hives late summer to get into them, so singles are necessary for my limited strength.

I've run 24" wide benches for several years and have never had one tip over. With some 8 frame equipment, they can get pretty tall. I just make sure the ground is level and stable. A 20" pallet is a bit narrow for my liking, but they would transport better.

Some of my pallets are 5' long and hold 3 hives. I am moving them currently to my new property just down the street. While the hive bodies are not touching during transport for (better stability) they ride fine for that short distance (2.5 miles)
Hives I transport for longer distance I slip a piece of foam in between for better contact and less potential shifting.I live in a rainy climate and prefer telescoping lids in winter. That makes transport more complicated.

I have about 200 hives to move, do it by myself with a forklift at both locations. I've been moving of old benches and onto few pallets every morning when temps are cool.

I made the 2' x 5' pallets so I can get 2 on the forks, similar to a 6 way. But when I get to my location, I can separate them for better access.

















All hives get a ratchet strap. I 'walk' them off the old benches and onto the new pallet. 









Then all three are strapped to the pallet









Just beginning to load here, you can see how they sit. Most of them didn't have the foam, I just wanted to see the difference. I wouldn't want to transport too far with gaps between the hives. 









I've been wanting to get palatalized for a while now. Like the OP, I'm not migratory, but do move hives on occasion and may do some a little more now that it will be less of a hassle and less hand loading.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

Here's another option for you, palletize your existing hives with telescopic covers.


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## patricksull (Jun 1, 2017)

Wow, thanks Saskie. That is more than enough to get me going. Very appreciated....


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## patricksull (Jun 1, 2017)

mgolden said:


> Here's another option for you, palletize your existing hives with telescopic covers.
> 
> View attachment 37497




Love the fit of those boards.....if I had a pile of covers laying around I would definitely go this route. Your pallets look $$. Not made with 1x stock....those look very sturdy!! Thanks for sharing....


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## Live Oak (Oct 11, 2008)

mgolden said:


> Here's another option for you, palletize your existing hives with telescopic covers.
> 
> View attachment 37497


Do you have a the dimensional plans for the bottom boards and pallet? This would make a great 2 way pallet system to work with an Ezy Loader.


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