# Hive removal ?



## burns375 (Jul 15, 2013)

I recomend atleast assisting in a removal from an experiences beekeeper before tackling on ur own, especially if the bees are in an occupied dwellings. Its harder than you think. I would invest in a bee vac too.


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

I have been removing bees from structures for a few years now. I'm just now getting the hang of it due to the complexity of the cutouts. Each one is different and comes with it's own set of challenges. Check out our FB page linked below for a sample of a few removals this year.


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## jsnider (Aug 12, 2014)

I did my first this year and first time messing with bees too. I did not get the queen or eggs and young larvae. I get to try again at same location next year. I made a beevac for less than $35 using home depot bucket and buckethead shop vac. It was unoccupied structure. I wouldn't try an occupied structure yet. This time of year you want to get all of their resources to get them through winter. I had a blast doing it and hive is doing well with new queen now.


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## xFishdogx (Jun 10, 2014)

I saw the plans to make the bee vac for around $30 too and been reading up on it. The building is unoccupied at the moment and don't have to worry about any repairs. I honestly feel I can perform the task since I pay close attention to everyone and feel if I don't rush, I will be able to find the queen and do the right cut outs. I live in Virginia so I know I have at least another month to prepare them for winter so I would try to focus more on the brood and at least two frames of honey. It would be a 10 frame hive Deep so I am thinking that will be a lot of resources for them since I would feed them 1:1 as soon as I got them to their permanent location. I mean this will be a first for me but I feel like I can do it. My entire first year of beekeeping was self taught. My biggest question is, do you use rubber bands to keep the cut foundation in the frame???


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## JMoore (May 30, 2013)

More difficult. But it's still a thrill. 

I'm in my 2nd year. Here's what I've learned so far:
-Free bees are never free. Ever. This has been a hard learned lesson. All of my hives were swarms, cutouts, and old hives--$100 packages seem reasonable, now. 
-All removals take 2x as long as I thought they would. 
-Since they take 2x as long, that means I usually work into the late evening hours. 
-Bees HATE being messed with in the late evening hours. 
-I HATE being stung by bees.
-Numerous times in the midst of a cutout or hive removal I say to myself, "I hate beekeeping." I typically get over it in a few days, though.
-"bee wrangling" is tough, exhausting, and dirty work. But ultimately worthwhile. (I hope.)


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## xFishdogx (Jun 10, 2014)

What is the usual time it takes to remove a hive?


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## tuzserhu (Dec 8, 2013)

That is not a question that can be answered! Every established hive is different. 
I think if you know that you are a handy person, can adopt to changing situations and resourceful, patient than you might be able to pull it off.
Again, you did not say where in the building they were?
You asked if people use rubber bands to secure the comb onto frames?
It suggests to me that there is more for you to learn!
Do you have the proper tools to tear apart plaster, wood slats, wire mesh, 2x4 or shingles?
Planning it out can save you valuable time on the job site. Plan it with 2x as much time as you think it will take and add a little!
The more removals you will do the faster and more efficient you will be!
My last advise is to you not to do it alone! Have an extra pair of hands that understands the tools, bees, their behavior.
My easiest removal was 2 hours behind a 24"x 24" plastered wall - imagine cutting the 1" plaster and hoping the you are on the outside of the studs and not contaminating the honey and brood.
My hardest one was 11 hours, 30"x30" column, plastered, heavy wire mesh, wooden slats and the comb was 48" long. Think how much honey I had from that hive after our main flow. Did I say it happened in july, 100 plus, cooled down by 10pm to the low 90's
I find it is easier to save the brood and pollen than the honey. I separate it and crush it and feed it back to them. It is a sticky business! 
Never really looked for the queen but caught her more than once.
Good luck and report back what happened.


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## bevy's honeybees (Apr 21, 2011)

I agree about not trying to save the honey when framing the comb. Stay with brood and pollen. Bring a big container with lid to put the honeycomb in and keep it covered while you work. 
Will you have a water source? keep your hands/gloves honey free. 
Use as little smoke as possible, it just makes them scatter.


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## jsnider (Aug 12, 2014)

Rubberbands work great. Definitely have water to wash gloves like said. Keep in mind wet gloves make getting stung on hands a lot easier. I got stung a couple dozen times, most through wet gloves. The one I cut out was 4.5' X 5' and had about 100# of honey. Three 5 gallon buckets with lids works great. It took me 12 hours with one 15 minute break, but I really enjoyed it. Bee Quick works great to keep the bees where you want them. Good luck.


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## fieldsofnaturalhoney (Feb 29, 2012)

xFishdogx said:


> Is it as simple as I am reading or is it more difficult than meets the eye.


It is more difficult and time consuming than meets the eye. I would recommend bringing another beekeeper with you (at the very least another person). I find it nearly impossible to do by myself, or maybe I am lazy :scratch:


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## jsnider (Aug 12, 2014)

I did wish that I had an extra set of hands, but didn't know anybody that was crazy enough at the time. So if you know an experienced beek or crazy person, then ask them for help.


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## Cub (Feb 14, 2013)

Xfish,

Go for it. Bee wrangling a great way to learn and a great way to get strong bees. Jpthebeeman on youtube was all the mentoring I needed, around 30 removals ago.

Make it happen.

J


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