# Painting Hives



## mayhaw12 (Jul 30, 2011)

What kinda paint do you use, Latex or oil, do you paint inside and out or just outside??
Do you put a primer on first and do you sand them before painting. Do you use spray or brush?
What brand of paint 1 coat or 2?? want to get it rightMayhaw10


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## LenInNorCal (Feb 28, 2009)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

DO NOT PAINT THE INSIDE.
If you wish, paint the outside with simple latex. I ususally go to the big box store, look at what folks have rejected on their "special table" and pick a nice light color. A lot of folks around here are prissy and paint ONLY the edges where the joints are to seal them. They leave the rest unpainted thinking that bees live in trees, and wood breaths so they they believe it is "natural" in that method. I have no idea about Georgia, humidity, rain, etc. I paint mine, simple latex, some two coats, some one. Up to you.
But DO NOT PAINT THE INSIDE, as bees do that with propolis which for their money is far superior than paint. 
Have fun too.


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## Ski (Jan 18, 2007)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

Agree with what LenInNorCal wrote.
Just wanted to add that I do paint all surfaces of the bottom board inside, outside, bottom. I think it helps when you have to scrape the bottom boards in the spring or if you get a winter mouse staying over.


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## LenInNorCal (Feb 28, 2009)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I stand corrected. I do the same. Just not the hive box. Thanks for keeping me on my toes.


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## Andrew Dewey (Aug 23, 2005)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I paint all surfaces that the bees don't have access to - meaning the underside of the bottom board and the outside of the boxes. I use 2 coats of latex over 1 coat of primer - paint is whatever is sold by home depot. I try to use a different color for each year so I can gauge equipment age by the color. I also paint the inside of my telescoping covers using a white latex.


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## beehonest (Nov 3, 2011)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I do the same as Andrew Dewey, I use latex Kilz II primer and a good latex outdoor paint. I screw and glue all my boxes and rub pure silicone over the outside joints to keep the water out.


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

If you have a compressor and spray outfit, and have a lot of boxes to paint, you can stack them to a comfortable height and spray them all at once. I never worry about painting the top or bottom edges, the bees usually do a good job of sealing them with propolis. 

I usually just use a large paintbrush with several stacked up on a table. 1 coat of exterior primer and 2 coats of latex does the trick.


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## Michael B (Feb 6, 2010)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I paint everything on the bottom board and only the outsides of everything else. I don't paint edges because the paint sticks the boxes together more than propolis.

I have stopped painting with three coats. 1 primer and two top coats. I have switched to exterior stain. You can get it tinted in numerous colors. I like it because it is one and done. No primer and no second coat. The stuff is super tough. Lasts 15-20 years on siding. Hives will be wore out by then.

You can get mis-tints too for a couple bucks.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I do the same as most on here, 1 coat primer, 2 coats exterior latex. I am going to start staining my hives as I like the wood grain look and I also want to get away from painting the same box three times!! Some people say the box isnt worth more than the paint and they dont paint them. I want to get as many years out of my boxes as I can. As for the interior, nothing gets painted, not even the bottom board. The bottom board gets painted up till the point where it is inside the hive, thats it. My covers get painted on the outside, and I make them out of 19/32 (basically 5/8") plywood. When one rots away, i'll replace it. I can make 6 lids out of one sheet of $18 plywood, so $3 a piece. I also make my own screened bottom boards and save more money there as well!!


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

Primer then 2 coats of paint. I did pick up 5 gallons of exterior stain in an off green color and am going to see how it works on hives. I stained my barn last year with it and it looks great. The curing time is my only concern, the smell of the stain was still present on the north side a week later. Hives would be easier to rotate in the sun over a few days so I'll see how this one goes.


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## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

If anyone is looking for super cheap latex exterior grade check your locak habitat for humanity. I can get a 5 gallon bucket for around 20 bucks. Color is well whatever they have available.

I personally don't bother with priming the wood prior to slapping the paint on it. The primer is to help the paint stick to the wood and if you have your paint thinned correctly you will not have issues with it adhering to the wood.


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## ycitybz (Jan 2, 2012)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I am connected to our local high school, I primed 12 new boxes, contacted the high school art teacher and asked if they wanted a new pallot to use for an art project. The teacher was very excited, a dozen students or so took on the project and I now have 12 very well decorated bee boxes.
After some instruction to the students my boxes range from painted bees and flowers to Pink Floyd "the wall". Cant wait for all of them to be finished and then to place them in the fields.


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## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I see something similar in the ABJ where a guys daughter took his bee boxes to the local high school and the art class painted them up nicely. Sure is some fancy art on bees boxes. Looked really nice though. Makes me wish I still went to Texas to split bees as I used to work with him while we split.


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## ycitybz (Jan 2, 2012)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

BMAC,
That is where I got the idea. My daughter has a hive and thought the idea was neat, so when I bought the boxes I thought I would try this.
My plan is to sell or raffle off a couple deeps to raise a little money for the art class, kind of paying it forward as they say..
Hopefully everyone benefits from this adventure.


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## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

good luck with it. I hope all turns out well from it.


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## Robbo (May 11, 2008)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I putty and sand the staple divots, then sand off the sharp edges and radius them slightly with a sander.

All surfaces undercoat with oil based primer, then paint all surfaces with 2 coats of water based paint.

Same method on lids and bottom boards. I use the 1 colour paint to do the whole lot. not a fan of the multi coloured apiary.

But thats just what werks for me


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## wcubed (Aug 24, 2008)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

Don't usually comment on these opinion threads, but do have an opinion.
Primer is expensive and is not as good as watering down a portion of the latex you use for the first coat. Prime with the watered-down. By thoroughly wetting the surface, the paint penetrates the wood fibers and makes a good bond with the wood. Done that way, one coat of full strength is enough.
A couple tips before painting:
Soft wood used for box making, to support milling, creates ridges at saw crosscuts. The softer wood between the harder rings is torn out in small chunks by the sawblade. The ends and valleys of the finger stock are very rough on a small scale. Paint of normal consistancy doesn't fill the low spots and a trapped air bubble breaks surface when you look away. We use White Lightning caulk to fill the joint and any that squishes out of the joint is finger-rubbed into the cross cut ends of the finger stock. (WL cures hard) Makes for a tough corner and easier to paint.

We bind the wood fibers of box mating surfaces with at least one coat of watered down. Top and bottom. Keeps scraping of propolis from scratching up splinters.

Before painting mating surfaces, slope the top, outside corners with rasp or sander - leaving the inside of the corner unchanged. This leaves a crack you can see for insertion of the hive tool for hive disassembly. No splintering of wood on a mating corner that is perfectly alligned.

Walt


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## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

Walt you speak from years of experience. I will apply your thoughts of slopping the outside corners.


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

Proper primer sticks much better than watered down latex paint. I'd use allkyd primer or good old shellac (my current primer of choice) since it's inert and sticks very well, and in fact DOES penetrate. Water base materials will not actually penetrate like alcohol and shellac.

Once the primer is dry, coat with two generous coats of paint, don't try to skim it out. Use enough to flow out nicely, it should not show more than very minimal brush marks. If you "stretch" it, there won't be a properly polymerized coat when it drys, you will get dusty paint that wears off rather than a hard, durable coat. Wrong place to save money, eh?

Natural pine boxes will rot away in a few years in my climate, while properly painted ones will last decades. Not painting is a false economy. The bees will not damage the wood in any way, but wood eating fungi will destroy them quickly. On top of that, the pine used in commerical boxes will warp very badly in the first year, too, leaving you with crooked boxes that leak.

Properly applied penetrating stains (which are usually allkyd paints with no pigments, just dyes) will also work fine IF you apply enough -- a single coat isn't sufficient.

Peter


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## hoodswoods (May 15, 2009)

I sand then double-coat with exterior grade stain - no scraping old paint off for me, 4 years no maintenance or deterioration & thinking I'll get another 2 years before restaining.


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## wcubed (Aug 24, 2008)

I doubt that anyone has done a comparison test of their preferred method over all others over enough years to see the difference in deterioration. When I sold out colonies, the buyers remarked what good shape my woodenware was in. Some boxes 15 years old.

One last tip: When I bought hives, building colony count, the most consistent failure mode of the boxes was rotted out upper corners. Problem: not square boxes. The box slightly out of square allows water penetration at the 3/8 frame rest upper corner. Take time or build a jig to insure that the box in assembly is as square as you can get it.
Walt


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## Maine_Beekeeper (Mar 19, 2006)

Painting tip:
If you paint your hive boxes upside down, it is easier to make sure you get the hand holds fully coated. 

Best to you and your bees, 
-Erin


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## Solarbeez (Apr 20, 2012)

hoodswoods said:


> I sand then double-coat with exterior grade stain - no scraping old paint off for me, 4 years no maintenance or deterioration & thinking I'll get another 2 years before restaining.


Do you think that would work well with a log hive? My newly carved Bee-atrice is made of a Myrtlewood which is a hardwood that grows mostly on the Oregon Coast. The carver did a fantastic job on the face. I'd like to preserve it well, but of course, no paint.


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## mayhaw12 (Jul 30, 2011)

Hello Walt, Yes I concur about the Boxes being square means a lot. Some of my Boxes that I painted 4 Years ago still look like new!! I used Bear Paint from Lowes (exterior Latex).
Painted 2 coats. 1 Primer coat. Does a great job. I also Glue all my joints as well as nail them.
I too paint all my Boxes up-side down because of the handle grooves.
Good luck with your Bees this Year.
Mayhaw12


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## MelanieWoosley (Nov 11, 2012)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I did this as well, with our local elementary school, and can't wait to see what they look like!


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*

I spot prime tough looking knots. Oil prime the whole box and then topcoat with latex or oilbase if I have it. If I could do oil everything I'd be happy. If I could get old fashioned oil based paint I'd be happier. Latex is good but not great.


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## garlicbee (Jun 3, 2010)

3coats as above, check out the garbage dump, if they take old paint, they may let u take the old stuff for free


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## mayhaw12 (Jul 30, 2011)

*Re: h) Hive design, what type?*



MelanieWoosley said:


> I did this as well, with our local elementary school, and can't wait to see what they look like!


Real good Project, I painted a real light "BLUE" Both bottoms and supers Look good.
I like the exterior Latex, 2 coats with Primer. I do not paint inside, but put copper
tox on the wood inside.
Mayhaw12


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## David Cassity (May 16, 2012)

wcubed said:


> I doubt that anyone has done a comparison test of their preferred method over all others over enough years to see the difference in deterioration. When I sold out colonies, the buyers remarked what good shape my woodenware was in. Some boxes 15 years old.
> 
> One last tip: When I bought hives, building colony count, the most consistent failure mode of the boxes was rotted out upper corners. Problem: not square boxes. The box slightly out of square allows water penetration at the 3/8 frame rest upper corner. Take time or build a jig to insure that the box in assembly is as square as you can get it.
> 
> ...



Would a longer telescoping cover help that issue. I thing water is a major cause of winter/ early spring loss. Chilled bees and brood. Think how you feel when your feet feel when wet in winter.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

I get oops paint (good quality and new) for $5 to $8 a gallon. Primer is never at the ‘oops section’ or on sale. I think the most expensive part of my building is primer. I may have to look into the shellac thing or see if I can find something on Walt’s suggestion. Primer dries so fast and the texture is so funny that I find it hard to think it is just cheap paint.


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