# diy robbing screen



## Western (May 29, 2016)

Simplest one I have seen online, is just wire mesh, or screen bridging the whole entrance. Mesh is bent in a "W" pattern and then stapled over the entrance.


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## Aroc (May 18, 2016)

The simplest one I've seen is to take a length of #8 screen....about 12 inches x 5 or so and fold it length wise in the shape of a 'W'. Take the 'wings' of this and staple one to the bottom board and one to the hive body over the enterance reducer. The bees will come out and either go left or right to fly off.


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

This morning I made and installed some similar to what is described above. I took a 2" piece of #8, about 5 or 6 inches long and wrapped it around a 1/2" piece of PVC pipe to form a half tube. Then I bend one side up to form a 3/8" flange. Placed it over the entrance hole and stapled the flange to the hive body on each end. Will be watching today to make sure they can figure it out.


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## notaclue (Jun 30, 2005)

A gentleman 'down the road from me posted one on beeworks.com\join the forum\hive design. I made screens this way, but it is easy to modify for your taste or needs.


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## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

I posted this 
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?328864-My-PSA-for-1st-years

it has some links. the first video has a good explanation. this year I am building these because with the just metal bent ones you have to rip it off to do oav. the metal will work. I just made some nucs and slapped them on till I can make some wood ones. I am screwing the wood frame ones to the front of the bottom box. if you make them make sure they are very close to the width of your bottom board. on my nucs i'm adding another piece of wood at the opening so to get by the robber screen is only a few bees width open.


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## Nardi (Jan 22, 2013)

Quick & easy: Peel off the screen from the box 3 lb bees arrive in, bend & duct tape leaving an opening at the top. Works for me.


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## dynemd (Aug 27, 2013)




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## Jim_in_PA (May 17, 2016)

This is the solution I made for our colonies...


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## sandmtn (Jul 7, 2016)

This is what I did and it worked out well. I used 2 layers of screen shifted slightly to create a smaller mesh because at the time I could only find the larger hardware cloth. Just had to be patient after installing.


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## cervus (May 8, 2016)

dynemd said:


>


Instead of a "W", could you not, alphabetically speaking, fold the hardware cloth into a "V" spanning entire length of the bottom board-hive box interface and insert the open end of the "V" into the entrance? This would create a friction-fit that would easily be removed and replaced. No staples, no tape. Easy peasy.


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## DYNOBOB (Apr 8, 2016)

These are what I made the other day. 2 pieces 3/4x1.5x6" - 2 pieces 3/4x1x12 3/8" - 2 pieces 3/4x1.5x12 3/8"










.


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## dynemd (Aug 27, 2013)

cervus said:


> Instead of a "W", could you not, alphabetically speaking, fold the hardware cloth into a "V" spanning entire length of the bottom board-hive box interface and insert the open end of the "V" into the entrance? This would create a friction-fit that would easily be removed and replaced. No staples, no tape. Easy peasy.


That would work too, as long as it stayed put.


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## PyroBee (Dec 14, 2013)

[HR][/HR]















I added the hook and eye for easy on and off and to hold in place.


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## Caromann (Sep 4, 2016)

This screen saved my bacon today! Thanks much for the share and useful pic.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

Mine look more like Dynobob's photo, except the bottom bar is in front of the two side bars. This leaves the entire front entrance open, so the robbers smell the honeycomb and attack all the wrong places. The exit holes are at the top. 

My robbing screens have a "privacy screen", a flake of wood behind which the guard bees can crawl up to the exit to go out and fight without being seen. This delays the robbing bees finding the exit holes, giving the guard bees more time to get a good jump on the robbers.


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## Caromann (Sep 4, 2016)

kilocharlie said:


> Mine look more like Dynobob's photo, except the bottom bar is in front of the two side bars. This leaves the entire front entrance open, so the robbers smell the honeycomb and attack all the wrong places. The exit holes are at the top.
> 
> My robbing screens have a "privacy screen", a flake of wood behind which the guard bees can crawl up to the exit to go out and fight without being seen. This delays the robbing bees finding the exit holes, giving the guard bees more time to get a good jump on the robbers.


I hadn't thought of the unseen factor with the piece of wood there, thanks! The screen has been a great quick fix while I plot something more permanent. NOTE TO SELF: Add clean-out boxes at DUSK!


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## will delito (Oct 9, 2016)

beefarmer said:


> Didn't see any plans in the build it yourself forum, robbing screens, anyone have any simple plans that work well ?


I made screens for every hive. I used 3/4 x 6 PVC, cut a rectangle out of the center leaving 1" perimeter, routed the top rail to allow bee entry, stapled screen to outside of frame, screwed to front of hive early in AM to teach bees new rout.
30 min. each


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