# Queen timing box question?



## drlonzo (Apr 15, 2014)

Using a plastic one may actually lead to a mess as the bees tend not to like going through them from what I've seen. However, in use, they may be easier to use. Simply build a rim in the bottom of the hive that matches your saw kerfs, then do one of two things. 1. Use the excluder as is and cut to fit, then use the cut end down, or 2. Cut a sheet of hardboard or the like, to fit the measurements, then cut an inner box out of the thing allowing area to either hot wax, or staple the queen excluder to it and slide it in. I think that the guys using the metal ones sort of make the same as #2 and then staple over it as well.


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

Here is a picture and description of the way Oldtimer does it in his "Raising Queen Cells Without Grafting" thread that is a "sticky" on this Queen and Bee Breeding forum that you have posted this thread in yourself...

http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...en-Cells-Without-Grafting&p=614698#post614698

That link will take you to the very post where he describes and shows the queen timing box and how he makes it.


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## PyroBee (Dec 14, 2013)

Thanks for the link, but it still does not answer my question on how to cut it. The excluder I have has a metal band around the edge. If I take off what is needed to fit on just one side there will be nothing to hold the bars. It is going to be difficult I believe to take it off both ends. Maybe he or others will explain how they did it.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

I cut mine on the table saw, using a metal cutting blade. Cut half off each end near the cross wires. Only a bit of unsupported excluder wires will be exposed, most will be in rabbet. For depth, cut between wires at bottom and leave metal binding at the top...that's if you're using a metal bound excluder.


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## PyroBee (Dec 14, 2013)

Thank you Mr. Palmer. I never thought about using the table saw. It is a metal bound excluder. How did you close of the bottom? I thought about putting strips on the bottom board to close off where the three frames are.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Rabbet the bottom board too...to accept the excluder. Excluder even with top of box. Leave metal binding for a bit of width. Grain bag for inner cover. No nose on bottom board. Cleat in entrance on queen's side of excluder.


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## PyroBee (Dec 14, 2013)

Got it thanks! 👍🏻 it is great to get insight from experience from those who done it.


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## Flyer Jim (Apr 22, 2004)

The old wood bound excluders minus the wood fit without being cut. I leave the excluder stick out the top with a two piece cover,vents are a good thing here.In winter the breeders are put in regular hives.


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## Buzzsaw2012 (Feb 1, 2012)

My next project !


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

I just cut mine with side cutters. One.. wire.. at.. a.. time.. If I had to cut out more than a couple I'd probably use a cutting wheel. or go to my friendly HVAC shop and use their sheer cutter.










My edges are covered so I didn't have to worry about a smooth edge.

Here's my experimental double queen divided 'timing' box. each section has it's own separate inner cover for limited open exposures










You have room on each side for your confined queens, a decent sized supporting colony and an interior feeder



















This box is superable with standard 10 frame equipment for over wintering. (Center deep is sitting over an excluder which straddles the center divider)


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

Power sear does wonder. Just as long as you have a friend that has one. Just remember it doesn't care what it cuts.


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## Robbin (May 26, 2013)

Lauri said:


> I just cut mine with side cutters. One.. wire.. at.. a.. time.. If I had to cut out more than a couple I'd probably use a cutting wheel. or go to my friendly HVAC shop and use their sheer cutter.


Lauri, I'm always amazed at the quality you put into everything you do. I wish I had half your skill and patience.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

If you get a wood bound excluder it will be enough shorter already.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

Pyro - I first tried the tedious process of prying open the metal binding and bending the cut wires to correct spacing using a 3/16" feeler gauge. I then bent the metal binding strip back over the cut wires, correcting the spacing by gently hitting with a chisel and hammer and re-checking with the gauge. (not easy, but it worked)

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Another solution is to make an over-sized breeder queen colony box. The inside dimensions must be the same as a standard Langstroth deep brood box.

*I built one with the short ends (16 1/4" wide x 9 11/16" tall) made out of 2" x 10" lumber.* The long sides must be 21 7/16" long with the notches for the finger box joints on the long sides 1.5" deep.

The short ends of the box have regular 3/4" deep notches, but the finger joints are 1.5" wide.

(In practice, I cut all hive parts 1/16" too long, with finger joints 1/32" too long. After gluing, clamping, and stapling, I belt sand them flush. It looks better and makes a better finished hive box.)

*The thicker short ends allow for deeper saw kerfs to accept the entire metal bound QE.*

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My favorite trick now is to make a Pritchard box. This is an isolation cage for the breeder queen. The way I make it, it fits in place of 3 frames in the breeder queen's own colony. 

I make it with wooden ends, bottom, and top. The ends are 4 1/2 inch wide by 6 1/8" deep and rabbeted for frames. The top must fit very tightly. The sides are cut QE material. Since the Pritchard box fits into the breeder queen's colony like a triple-wide frame, it has slightly shorter frames inside it.

The Pritchard box frames are medium super depth. The length must fit the P-box you make. They are shorter than standard frames, so for drawing out the foundation, I screw on a regular-length (19" long) frame top bar piggy-back onto the Pritchard frame. I paint these pink for quick identification. I check them every day during wax drawing, and pull them out before they get filled with honey.

Unscrew the 2 wood screws and place the P-frames into the P-box. Save it for 4 days before grafting day, when you isolate the breeder queen onto these frames inside the Pritchard box.

Hope any of these 3 methods help. Best of luck!


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

Oops! the sides are 7 1/8" deep. The frames are 6 1/8" deep. Sorry about that. It rained yesterday and McDonald's had way too many wifi issues.  Using a private connect today - WAY better!


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## HeadofMeadow (Jul 30, 2019)

Lauri, you said experimental, it’s been a few years, how do you like using it?


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