# Converting Kelley 220V Heater To 110V



## brobers (Nov 14, 2009)

I realize that the element will need to be changed and the plug/wiring (plus the lower/slower heating capacity when I go to 110V) but can someone tell what internally needs to be changed in the Kelley control box? I have three of them I just purchased in a broiler, melter, and warming tank and need to change them to 110V as I am not setup for 220V. The elements in all of them are currently bad anyway and need to be replaced. Thanks.


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## ShaneVBS (Aug 22, 2011)

you should call them, but if its just a mechanical tstat it will work, but if its solid state you will need to change tstat control


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## brobers (Nov 14, 2009)

I opened the one today that I am removing from the warming tank to put on the double broiler. To convert it from 220V to 110V seems pretty simple. For 220V one leg of the input power goes to the thermostat switch, the output side of the thermostat goes to one side of the heater element, the other input power leg goes to the other side of the heater element, and the neutral is bolted to the ground on the unit.

I assume that once the element and the power cords are changed out that it is pretty much the same wiring for 110V. Hot input leg to the thermostat, neutral leg to one side of the element, a jumper from the output of the thermostat switch to the other side of the heater element, and ground to the body of the unit. I really expected this to be more complex than this but it isn't.

Here is a picture of the 220V wiring.


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## pascopol (Apr 23, 2009)

Converting from 240V to 110V is not always possible without serious rewiring work, since you need to have twice a current flowing through the same (altered) wiring.

Your link does not work so I can not really determine if the thing is going to work or not.


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## brobers (Nov 14, 2009)

Actually it turned out to be very simple and the current issue is resolved by changing out the heater elements. I am changing them from 220V elements to 110V elements. I go from a 5000W unit when I do that to 1500W but I don't need 220V service ran where they plug in. The thermostat turned out to be a simple SPST so the heating element will be treated just like a light bulb. It will be wired up just like a table lamp. I checked the link and it is working just fine.


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## pascopol (Apr 23, 2009)

Your post does not mention using 110V elements instead of 220V so I find the whole thing misleading. 
Actually it is a new redesigned unit in the old shell, I do not think it is " very simple" with new coils and cost involved.

Sorry, I can not find any links to your diagram.


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## brobers (Nov 14, 2009)

pascopol said:


> Your post does not mention using 110V elements instead of 220V so I find the whole thing misleading.


Misleading? "I realize that the element will need to be changed" and the title of the posting is Converting Kelley 220V Heater To 110V. What did you think I was going to change the element into, another 220V element?

I've checked the posting now three different times from different computers and the picture shows up on every one of them. You might look and see if you are blocking Javascript. The picture is on the third post in this thread.


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## pascopol (Apr 23, 2009)

I could not care less how much effort and money one wants to put in converting 240V extractor to 120V.

My point is it is not simple or cheap since you need to make it clear you'll need 2 new 120V elements + wiring change then you need to make sure it is plugged into 120V circuit which can safely carry current required to run the extractor.

There is a reason they build some high current drawing appliances and devices to run on 240V.

The reason is current limitation using 120V circuit.

Myself I would plug my extractor into 240V outlet, every home in US has a few of them to run electric range, clothes dryer, some window AC units etc. etc.

Install new 240 outlet where I need it, or run an extension cord. Either way is cheaper and less hassle than converting unit from 240V to 120V.


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## ShaneVBS (Aug 22, 2011)

wiring is the same for 120 vs 220


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## pascopol (Apr 23, 2009)

Can't be the same if you are using 2 coils instead of one.

Also if this unit has thermostat there would be likely problem unless it is a thermostat water heater style ( not needing supply voltage to operate).


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## brobers (Nov 14, 2009)

pascopol said:


> Can't be the same if you are using 2 coils instead of one.


Thanks Shane you confirmed my suspicions. This other guy appears to have no grasp about what I am doing or how these things actually work. Why he is continuing to reply is beyond me. This nonsense of a 220V extension cord or taking a wax melter into the kitchen or laundry room to plug in is just crazy. A 10-3 50' extension cord is over $150. A new 110V heating element is about $15 and a six foot 110V cord and plug isn't much either. It is a lot cheaper than using an extension cord or running a new circuit.


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

But what I really want to know is who ate those leftover strawberries!!


pascopol said:


> Can't be the same if you are using 2 coils instead of one.
> 
> Also if this unit has thermostat there would be likely problem unless it is a thermostat water heater style ( not needing supply voltage to operate).


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## pascopol (Apr 23, 2009)

brobers said:


> Thanks Shane you confirmed my suspicions. This other guy appears to have no grasp about what I am doing or how these things actually work. Why he is continuing to reply is beyond me. This nonsense of a 220V extension cord or taking a wax melter into the kitchen or laundry room to plug in is just crazy. A 10-3 50' extension cord is over $150. A new 110V heating element is about $15 and a six foot 110V cord and plug isn't much either. It is a lot cheaper than using an extension cord or running a new circuit.


I am replying cause some of you guys have no clue how electricity works.

I never said you need $150 extension cord. You make a cord out of the proper gauge wire to carry SAFELY MAX CURRENT your device needs to operate REGARDLESS OF VOLTAGE. Cause it is the current which blows fuses and burns installations and houses not the voltage, and the higher the voltage, the lower current will flow in the circuit providing power (Voltage X current = power, or wattage).

It all boils down to the Ohm,s law. If you lower the voltage by half you need twice as much current to get the same power (wattage).

Meaning extension cord or wire needed to supply the same amount of power could be smaller gauge at higher voltage (240V) than lower voltage (110V) .

The reason why commercial 240V extention cords are so thick and expensive is not cause of the voltage, but of the current they have to carry.

Average kitchen range/oven need 6000 to 8000 watts to run all burners + oven, so at 240 volts it needs to carry 25-30 amps current.

That's why they can't use 120 V ciruit to power kitchen oven cause that would require 50 amps current, then all home installation would have to been gauge 6 instead of 14 (cost). 

Similar situation with Water heater, central A/C etc.

I do not know how much wattage Kelly's heater use but it likely exceeds home 120V volts circuit current carrying capacity, that is why they use 240 V circuit.

If you convert it to 120V disregarding twice amount of current it will carry now at 120V you risk blowing fuses or/and fire of your installation and your house.

For your info I was in electric pump business, and also I do have degree in electronics.

So I do know what I am talking about, but if anybody wants to carry unsafe electrical conversion risking trouble you are free to do it. It is your business, your ignorance and your safety not mine.


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## ShaneVBS (Aug 22, 2011)

I can tell you how there is no differance with 120 vs 220 except neutrel is hot for 220 and 220 draws less current. But he was asking about wiring for equipment not his house, i think he understands that much. As far as what your talking about pasco i think your over complicating it.

Ive been an electrican for 13 years, working on masters now, currenty have a masters in plumbing, gas fitter, and HVAC


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## pascopol (Apr 23, 2009)

No difference between 120 vs 220 ????

You may get a Nobel Price for such a statement.

"Wiring for equipment not his house".

So where is the power coming from, his household installation or directly from power pole?

Again ever heard of Ohm's Law?

They teach it first quarter of any electric study course.

You are saying "Neutral is hot" for 220 ?

I'd surely would not want to live in a house wired by you.

LOL


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## brobers (Nov 14, 2009)

pascopol said:


> I am replying cause some of you guys have no clue how electricity works.


I went to school for Electronics Technology at Indiana State University and have a BS in OLS with a technical focus in Electronics Technology from Purdue. I do understand how electricity works. I did not understand how this circuit worked at the time I posted this question as I had not opened the unit up and studied it. You admittedly have no clue about the equipment in question and have completely missed the concept and that is changing the unit from a 220V system to a 110V system. This, as I understand it, is a relatively common practice to switch a unit from 220V to 110V or vice versa. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something weird about the wiring when changing from one to the other that needed to be done. No one else had asked this question before and hence why I asked it now. Why you even bothered to reply and then to keep arguing when you clearly don't even understand the hardware in question or the actual problem is beyond me.

Oh and for the record I ate the Strawberries. I thought no one wanted them...


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## pascopol (Apr 23, 2009)

You have no clue how electricity works saying "There is no difference between 220 and 110 Volts.

You have no clue about Ohms Law which is the basic theory of electricity.

You have no clue saying " I can tell you how there is no differance with 120 vs 220 except neutrel is hot for 220"

Better stick to your pluming and pipe fitting, or if you do electrical installations get a good lawyer.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

:no: Time for this train to change tracks.


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## ShaneVBS (Aug 22, 2011)

WOW, sry let me rephrase, the only differance between 120 and 220 is that you have a neutrel and hot with 120 and 220 you have two hot, sometimes with a neutrel. Dont want to confuse you, just read my reply more closely and you will see what i mean.

But as you can see by what i meant by, wiring up controls and loads are the same for 120 vs 220. which is what this whole conversation is about


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