# WOW! just rolled out of bed! Some great meads.



## Tenbears

Yesterday my best bud and I decided to rack some meads melomels, and others from the primaries to carboys. We also racked some that had been in secondary's for about 6 weeks, and bottle some that was ready for bottling. It was a late night as many of the selections needed sampling. Err go the reason this normally up with the chickens old timer just rolled out of bed.












A few of our recent bottlings


----------



## Tim KS

So....? Is the head still clear or is there a headache in progress?


----------



## Eikel

If you need a third sampling opinion I take one of the team and volunteer. I's never a good idea to handle mead without sampling. Looks good Tenbears


----------



## Beerz

What does mead taste like? Is it like wine? The sugars ferment so it doesn't really taste like honey?


----------



## Eikel

Yes, I know that's not definitive. It's unique and different than wine. In the traditional mead you can definitely taste the honey. If you have a gal jug, 3 lb of honey and a local brew store it's easy enough to ferment yourself up a small batch. Plenty of folks and websites to walk you through it.


----------



## Colino

Eikel said:


> Yes, I know that's not definitive. It's unique and different than wine. In the traditional mead you can definitely taste the honey. If you have a gal jug, 3 lb of honey and a local brew store it's easy enough to ferment yourself up a small batch. Plenty of folks and websites to walk you through it.


I used this website http://www.stormthecastle.com/mead/articles/the-comprehensive-guide-to-types-and-names-of-mead.htm and I just bottled some 16% mead yesterday. Real rocket fuel. I built another 4 gallon batch this morning. Before it ages, it may give you the impression it's rocket fuel, but it's not rocket science.


----------



## Tenbears

There is far more to making mead than creating rocket fuel. there are a great many varitiel honeys in the U.S. alone. the true craft of mead making comes in the transitioning the subtle differences into the mead. Have you ever tried Meadowfoam honey? imagine transitioning it's delicate marshmallow flavor of the honey into the mead. Nurturing clean fresh fruit flavor in melomels while at the same time maintaining a burn free smooth alcohol content requires a true scientific approach. Understanding how mercaptins can be turned to hydrogen sulfite and completely ruining a batch of otherwise good mead requires a more than mix and hope attitude. When a masterful mead is produced, The ability to reproduce it with exacting accuracy requires forethought, and documentation as well as a concise understanding of the chemical changes that can take place within the fermentation process. It is not rocket science to make drinkable rocket fuel if that is what you like to drink. And it is not rocket science to produce top shelf meads but it's close!

That is not to say it has to be difficult.


----------



## ChuckReburn

I've had 1 batch out of 8 or 9 that came out like rocket fuel, we blame it on being mishandled on the rack to secondary (my son siphoned lees and unintentionally oxygenated). With that exception, they are all quite tasty (and still aging). They include a few traditionals and cyzers, a berry melomel and a lot of metheglins.

We took several to dry and as such there is no "taste of honey", the ginger mead is a little sweet and similar to a ginger beer, the hopped mead is a little beer-like.


----------



## Colino

Tenbears said:


> The ability to reproduce it with exacting accuracy requires forethought, and documentation as well as a concise understanding of the chemical changes that can take place within the fermentation process.


Or you could just say "follow the recipe."


----------



## RayMarler

Thanks for sharing TenBears, that's some very nice looking finished product, very pleasing to see and I'm betting even more pleasing to taste!!!


----------



## Tenbears

Colino said:


> Or you could just say "follow the recipe."


 That would be assuming you are using a recipe, and that the recipe is for a finished product that suits your tastes.


----------



## Tenbears

RayMarler said:


> Thanks for sharing TenBears, that's some very nice looking finished product, very pleasing to see and I'm betting even more pleasing to taste!!!


Thanks Ray. I am quite proud of my creations. I just dreamed up a new one last night I am calling it berry quad, A blend of four berries, I just pitched 5 3 gallon batches with various percentages of berrie ratios to see what produces the beat overall Melomel, in terms of legs, body, aroma, flavor, and finish. But I think they will all have merit.


----------



## Eikel

Tenbears,
What's varietal of honey is in the clear bottle on the left?


----------



## Tenbears

The clear bottle to the left is called white it is made with clover honey and fermented very slowly. The next a is buckwheat Metheglin with cinnamon and vanilla. Next is Lakota sweat A semi sweet mead made with wildflower honey from the Pine Ridge reservation in South Dakota. And the extreme right is elderberry Melomel made with the wash from cappings.


----------



## JohnBruceLeonard

Thanks very much for sharing, Tenbears. I was thinking just yesterday of researching mead-making, and the photographs of your fine meads have lent the inspiration necessary to convince me. The trouble is, now I'm thirsty, and I have no idea where the devil to get what I want...

John


----------



## Eikel

The elderberry and cap washing is giving your a clear mead? I get a limited amount of clear honey but I would have thought the elderberry would have colored the batch. Also, how did you slow the fermentation, temp or incrementally adding honey?

JohnBruce,
You've come to the right place Brother.


----------



## Tenbears

The left and right were transposed The left is the white and elderberry on the right, Stage feeding honey creates a sacked mead, Requiring many calculations to determine alcohol content. To maintain a slow ferment I manage the temperature toward the lower end of the yeast tolerances.


----------



## Eikel

I hope you don't mind me using you to further my education.

On stage feeding honey. If you know x amount of honey and water will give you a specific SG, therefore an estimated alcohol content if taken to full fermentation; does stage feeding honey have a different outcome? 

Using temperature to slow and prolong fermentation has what final impact on the mead?


----------



## JohnBruceLeonard

Eikel said:


> JohnBruce,
> You've come to the right place Brother.


Much gratified to hear it, Eikel. If it all looks as good as Tenbear's mead, I think I'll be sticking around.

Tenbears - how long have you been making mead?

John


----------



## Eikel

It looks good and tastes great, even more gratifying when you share and others also enjoy it. I've taken some into the local micro brewery and the owner/brewer offers to swap products.


----------



## Tenbears

Stage feeding Honey is generally done when one desires a High alcohol volume. Often times too high of a Specific Gravity (SG) will cause the yeast to stall. If you stage or step in honey and know exactly how much honey of a given value you intend to use and the SG produced by said volume then, yes The alcohol content is predictable. However often the closer to the end of the cycle the smaller the amount of honey is added as at some point the yeast will quit due to exceeding it's alcohol tolerance. Even though yeast manufactures offer a tolerance range it is not always exact and can very considerably. So the trick is to add honey in a manner that maximum alcohol is produced, while still achieving dryness here is where the calculations come into play. When making Meads within acceptable levels for the yeast there is no real benefit to stepping in the honey. 

Slow ferments when making mead helps maintain the individual flavor profile of the honey. Fast violent ferments transition co2 and burn Oxygen as well as devour the nutrients the yeast requires. Although we often talk about oxidation of mead and how it can damage the meads flavor and color. During the onset of fermentation Oxygen is necessary for the yeast to develop. A slow development of the yeast places less demand on the nutrients required for it to ferment the sugars properly. Fast ferments can cause the yeast to become starved for nitrogen and produce Hydrogen sulfide which can give the a burnt rubber taste and smell.


----------



## Tenbears

Eikel said:


> It looks good and tastes great, even more gratifying when you share and others also enjoy it. I've taken some into the local micro brewery and the owner/brewer offers to swap products.


 John. I have been making mead for 40+ years. Many of my meads, melomels, ect. are from recipes I have developed. In the beginning Some were drinkable but that was about it. Funny, it all started with a simple surplus honey and my Grandfathers recipe.


----------



## Eikel

Thank you sir. The slow fermentation makes good sense. My current batch is in a cooler than normal room and off gassing slower than normal. I was curious on the effects of the slower fermentation and it now sounds like serendipity. 

Back to the stage feeding. I understand the concept of achieving the maximum alcohol content while minimizing the addition of any honey beyond that point, but how do you determine that break point? A hydrometer, or at least my hydrometer, would appear to be far too "blunt" of an instrument for such fine reading.


----------



## Tenbears

Stage feeding is most generally done when high alcohol content is desired. Lets use a 21% mead for example to achieve 21% alcohol one must start with a Specific Gravity id 1.136 to 1.137 Most yeast will be overwhelmed by such high sugar and stall. those that do not will multiply and ferment vigorously. Often consuming all the nutrients long before a proper fermentation is done starving them for nitrogen. The yeast for such a ferment would be Wyeath Eau de Vic although the manufacture boast low deviation I have seen this yeast quit at 19% and go well beyond the 21%.
Knowing the amount of honey to bring a volume of water to a SG of 1.137 is necessary. Separate that amount of Honey and bottle it. Bring the must to A SG of 1.090 sterilize and add wine tannin, and 1/3 of the recommenced yeast nutrients. and begin the fermentation, when the SG drops to 1.050add 1/2 the remaining honey. and 1/3 the required yeast nutrient. do the same when the SG reaches 1.025. then every time the SG reaches 1.005 until the honey is gone or the yeast peters out. If you use all the honey and the mead goes to 0,995 then you have a dry mead. at 21% alcohol. If not a slightly sweeter version is born. The stepped honey and nutrients lends well to the slow fermentation and created a nice sacked mead. Personally I am not big on high volume alcohol and much prefer to enjoy the subtle nuances of a fine honey. but I have enjoyed a few sacked meads. 
Yes, a hydrometer is the tool. As basic as it seems it can measure the SG perfectly. Unlike a refractometer which cannot accurately measure SG in the presence of alcohol.


----------



## Eikel

Nor is my interest in a high alcohol beverage but I do like to try new techniques and challenges. Sometimes the answer to "why" is "to simply to see if I could." I'm going to need to go back and review the calculations pertaining to SG and volume/densities. 

One difficulty I have is with reading the hydrometer through the top of the carboy; over fifty eyes, thick sloped glass and any residual foam or "floaters" seem to distort the hydrometer markings. Any trick of the trade exist to clarify the reading?


----------



## Tenbears

I do not think High alcohol volume meads are a bad thing. Just not my preference, If I want a high alcohol beverage, I much prefer Jim Beam's Red Stag.

Get a 10 or 12 inch cylinder and a Wine Thief. The wine thief easily extracts the mead must from a Carboy. The hydrometer can easily be read in the cylinder, Also this is in part why I use a primary until my SG gets below 1.015. easy to part the foam and read a hydrometer. As the yeast ferments it produces CO2 which shields the must from Oxygen in the later part of the ferment. In the early stages it does not matter as the yeast needs O2 to develop. 
And I know what you mean about the eyes, I have to nearly use a jewelers optic to graft anymore.


----------



## Eikel

I have the cyl and thief, just hadn't thought about using thief. thanks


----------



## Ben Brewcat

+1 on the thief.


----------



## Eikel

When using cooler temp to slow fermentation, what do you use to maintain the lower temps; i.e. ambient room temp, old refrigerator/cooler?


----------



## Ben Brewcat

Finding a good place in/under your home helps a lot. Early vigorous ferments can raise themselves up on their own metabolic energy, so keep an eye on it... those stick-on strips work well for this but make sure they are attached where the mead will be behind their place (not headspace). If a cool area (unheated closet, basement, guest room etc) can't be located, place the carboy in a (clean) cat litter box. Add water and then put a cotton t-shirt over the carboy: the wicking and subsequent evaporative cooling will help several degrees. Add a fan blowing on the carboy for even more assertive cooling action.


----------



## Tenbears

:thumbsup: Perfect! :banana:


----------



## Eikel

Would it be safe to say you do most of your slow fermentation during late fall through mid spring? I have an extra refrigerator in the shed but I'm not sure a refrigerator's thermostat can be set to the mid 60s, have you ever tried using a frig?


----------



## Tenbears

My winery is in the basement, it stays cool year round. When I need to bring the ambient down just a bit more I turn the AC on. For the yeast I use I have found that keeping the ambient between 62 and 64 provides a slow even ferment as the slow ferment does not heat the must too much, Just enough to keep it nice and active with little to no risk of stall. I like to have most of my meads done by February, so I can cold crash them to facilitate the dropping of Tartrate crystals, Although I have a freezer that I can do 3, 6 1/2 gallon carboys at a time. I prefer to set them all in the garage when the temps are below 20 tweaking the heat in the garage I can maintain a temperature around 26F and do my lawful 200 gallons all at the same time. in that way I can bulk age and bottle as I deem the brew ready.


----------



## Vance G

Ten bears I am not arguing with success! Your situation as presented is about ideal for making good product that becomes drinkable fairly fast. For those of us with a more variable temperature in our brew space, there are yeasts that do a good job at temperatures into the mid seventies. KIV 1116 will chew thru fairly rich must in the mid seventies temps in about three days. Then I add the fruit for ten days and about six months later I have a good melomel that keeps getting better. In my cooler country than your, that means I can make a mead way further into the season when fruits are more available. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all.


----------



## Eikel

My basement stays around 68 degrees so I'm still a little high on temp, I need to think on how to gain the cooler temp. I'm assuming you're cold crashing to gain clarity of the product? Sure can't plan on anything in the garage so far this year.


----------



## Tenbears

Cold crashing or cold stabilizing is used to precipitate the formation of tartaric crystals. Tartic and maltic acid in the mead especially pyments and melomels can as temperatures lower form Crystals within the mead. Sometimes referred to as snow flakes, or wine diamonds. Like honey when kept at temperatures close to 56F will crystalize. Meads will create them when temperature lowers. Placing a bottle in the refrigerator can precipitate the formation. Storing long term in a cellar will do the same. By chilling the wine to around 27f for 10 to 20 days in the carboy after clearing will cause the tartarics to crystalize and drop any excess acid from the mead, this prevents them from forming in the bottles, When the carboys are brought in from the cold the mead should be racked before it warms for too long. This ensure the crystals do not have time to dissolve when temperatures rise.


----------



## Eikel

From what I know about cold crashing it was for clarification but you mention crashing after clearing. Do you notice any taste difference by removing the excess acids or is the crashing more for improved appearances, I don't disagree with the importance of clarity just getting my mind around "cause and effect."


----------



## sqkcrk

Oh, Meads. When I first read the Thread title I thought it was a typo and you meant "meds". Hohoho


----------



## woodsy

Meds, meads, practically synonymous.

I started a 5 gal batch 10 days ago. 
Relative newbee to meads like beekeeping but learning all the time. 
Been brewing beer and cider regular for almost a couple years .
One hive out of two from a split didn't do well this summer got robbed out and absconded i guess leaving 
behind enough honey for a 5 gal batch.
Good fermenting temps on the main floor in a corner, 64 -68 range using 71B yeast .
Plan on splitting it into 5 gallon batches of different melomels , metheglins after primary fermentation.


----------



## Eikel

Tenbears,
That's a lot of carboys on the shelf. Do you bulk age and what's protecting the mead from oxidation? When do you kill/suspend fermentation?


----------



## Tenbears

I ferment in primary until the SG reaches between. 1.025 and 1.015 then I rack into carboy taking only enough lees to continue the fermentation. I allow the fermentation to continue to dryness. 0.995 hopefully, I then rack into a sanitized carboy and add Potassium metabisulphite (Kmet). Campden tablets can be either potassium metabisulphite or sodium metabisulphite I stay away from the sodium. Live salt, but not in my mead. I buy my Kmet granulated in 1 pound bags. as It is a great sanitizer for carboys and bottles when mixed at a ratio of 3 tbs per gallon of water. No need to rinse bottles as it is a preservative for the Mead, depending on acidity we want around 25 to 50 PPM Free sulfur dioxide (SO2) to protect our mead. Then I bulk age racking and kmet every 3 months. I allow my meads to bulk age for 9 months. Doing so allows me to make adjustments as I deem necessary during the aging process. A bit of acid to improve mouth feel, some distilled water to smooth, potassium bicarb to reduce a bit of sourness. After 9 months of aging I sweeten as I see fit add the prescribed amount of Potassium sorbate let stand for 72 hours, rack and bottle. I then age in the bottle for another 3 months. It really improves with age. 
As a foot note I rack in a vacuum to prevent oxidation of the mead.


----------



## Tenbears

Vance G said:


> . KIV 1116 will chew thru fairly rich must in the mid seventies temps in about three days. .


K1-V1116 is a very good yeast it has a wide temperature range and alcohol tolerance. a reliable yeast but not as hot of a work horse as EC 1118.
I like the way it holds the fruit flavor when used at it's lower temperature end. But I suspect you know that already. A good choice for melomels at any temp. In my opinion.


----------



## Eikel

Here we go again, one answer begets 2 or 3 more questions; I do appreciate you the sharing your expertise, thank you. Let see if I can dust off the ol’ chemistry brain cells and do a cause and effect application on what is happening inside the carboy. 
1.	At 0.995, the yeast has reached its alcohol tolerance and gone dormant; no additional CO2 is being produced.
2.	During the second racking only a minimal amount of CO2 will be “dislodged” from solution and may leave the mead susceptible to oxidation. Adding the potassium metabesulfite (kmet) will generate a reaction with a byproduct of sulfur dioxide (SO2). The SO2 will exist in solution and as free SO2 in a gaseous state. While odorous, the quantity of SO2 required to protect and generated in this situation will not have a negative impact on taste or aromatics of the mead.
3.	Racking occurs every three months until the nine month point as an aid in the “clarity” process. Additional Kmet is added to maintain 25-50 PPM free SO2 for oxidation protection.
4.	At the nine month point, the mead is sweetened to taste and potassium sorbate added completely kill any residual yeast; allow 72 hours for off gassing. Bottle and wait.

I like kmet can serve multiple purposes in the process, less parts helps. I’m in agreement with no/minimal sodium added.

Now the additional questions:
I know you can titrate to determine free and total SO2, is this your method of analysis?
I understand there will be a relationship between acidity and free SO2, maybe not directly but a relationship I need to be aware of to adequately prevent oxidation. I need to research the relationship/interaction to a greater degree but is there a “rule of thumb” that can be employed? 
How do you rack in a vacuum? This maybe simple in its application, but I’ve never pulled a vacuum without being in a closed system and I’m stumped on how to create a closed system between two carboys.


----------



## Tenbears

At 0.995 the sugar within the must is used up there is no residual sugar left to ferment. when a yeast reaches it's alcohol tolerance it dies regardless of the remaining sugar. But yes, in either case there is no Co2 being created!

# 2 is an accurate statement

#3 correct

#4 correct the 72 hours is to allow Potassium sorbate solids to settle to the bottom, and ensure no further fermentation occurs. 
Footnote: never add more potassium sorbate than the manufacture recommends. Too much will make your mead taste like bubblegum

Although I have so2 test made by vinometrica they are rather pricy. Accuvin and Titrets are kits that can test so2 for 10 batches and are available from wine making supply stores for about $40.00 per kit. To be honest once one has an understand of how the free So2 becomes bound and the curve at which it happens one uses testing far less, with the exception being meads and wines which are intended to be stored for in excess of 2 years. Following the rule of thumb to add 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons of wine/mead when racking will generally provide more then adequate protection for most mead makers without effecting quality or taste. I use it over 90% of the time. When I make a mead or wine In large batches that I know will be cellared for well over 2 years I them use my SC-100 to be sure I have adequate protection prior to bottling. How long is a 3 gallon batch going to be stored? 1 Finely crushed campden tablet, or 1/8 tsp will adequately protect it regardless of the PH. 

When using a vacuum to rack the carboy from which the mead is being racked is not under vacuum, so the surface of the mead is exposed to O2 during the process. The surface of the mead is exposed to Oxygen but only limited exposure. The beauty of racking in a vacuum the swirling mead in the receiving carboy is not exposed to O2. therefore limiting the possible oxidation. another advantage to racking in a vacume is if one has a mead that they would like to hasten to the bottle a bit. they can facilitate co2 off gasing by splash racking with no fear of oxidation. splash racking can also aid in removing hydrogen sulfide if caught early enough. As a general rule I assume most mead makers do not have a vacuum pump, thus when offering up a recipe I generally include in the directions to place the syphon hose deep into the receiving carboy to prevent the mead from falling and splashing to minimize o2 contact.


----------



## Eikel

The Vinmetrics meters are pricy, I believe the 100 model is around $265 and you can add another $100 for the 200. I'll check out the kits and make liberal use of the rule of thumb. Thanks for the potassium sorbate bubblegum warning.

My wife's husband has a broad employment history while passing through the Hard Knocks School of Learning, keeps a wide assortment of tools and equipment to meet the honey do requests A vacuum pump isn't out of the question. ;-) Pulling a vacuum on a single carboy is within my grasp. I'm assuming you are using siphoning pump to start the transfer action (currently I use a siphon pump and bottling ward while racking to minimize splashing and to keep the hose on the bottom).


----------



## Eikel

I'm back again. I know about the juice preservatives; none of the local orchards press their own cider anymore, they ship the apples off to a larger commercial press which adds the potassium sorbate as I remember. One orchard still lets me special order untreated gallons during apple season.

I’m still working on finding all the actors in the mead, identifying them with their roles and how they interact together. Scary but some of the information has entered into my cognitive reasoning. Processing to complete fermentation and adding Kmet to create an SO2 oxidation barrier makes sense as the CO2 begins to minimize.

I’m a bit confused by the wild yeast activity before and after the pitching of the yeast “So2 binds to o2 inhibiting it from being used by microorganisms as fuel to develop, that is why it inhibits wild yeast. when used prior to pitching yeast. However because the must is exposed to O2 the SO2 becomes bound rather quickly. within 24 hours it is for the most part completely bound and does not inhibit the yeast when we pitch it. the reason most recipes call for the must to be stirred after the first 24 hours, and often daily during the first 5 days is to introduce Oxygen into the must to allow the yeast to multiply.”
I thought adding the Kmet and/or campen tablets added before fermentation killed the wild yeast; if I understand correctly, the SO2 is binding with the O2 and essentially starving the wild yeast for oxygen. It would seem the wild yeast would go dormant until our preferred yeast was pitched and then be a direct competitor for the O2 we’re introducing. Is the "domestic" yeast that dominant or am I missing something?


----------



## Tenbears

Really no need to say a word, you have figured the answer out for your self. Wild yeast is fairly sparse on most fruits and within the atmosphere. It's spores are actually almost everywhere the blessing is that it is easier to damage the spores before they begin to germinate. The yeast we use for controlled fermentation is cultured, It is faster developing and easily overcomes wild yeast. I have a mead recipe that was passed down through my family. A local weed was used in the recipe. and it called for no yeast. after years of working to refine the consistency of the mead I discovered that the weed was prone to the inhabitation of a wild yeast that fermented the mead. by removing the weed from the recipe and using a cultured yeast I was able to replicate each batch consistently. vintners spend countless hours developing yeast cultures that preform specific functions during the fermentation. To ensure they do their job they must be able outcompete wild yeasts which are fairly mild. A problem only arises when the wild yeasts begins to develop and multiply, then they can be detrimental to the qualities of the cultured yeast.


----------



## Tenbears

Eikel said:


> Pulling a vacuum on a single carboy is within my grasp. I'm assuming you are using siphoning pump to start the transfer action (currently I use a siphon pump and bottling ward while racking to minimize splashing and to keep the hose on the bottom).











On the left is my Vacuum pump the bottle on the unit is simply to protect it should I suck up some mead. The vacuum line goes to a stopper with 2 holes attached to the center carboy, this creates a vacuum in the empty carboy, the other hole has a line that goes to the racking cane in the full carboy on the right. The vacuum in the empty carboy draws the mead from the full one. This enables one to rack mead from a full carboy on the bottom shelf to an empty on top shelf. when you get old like me you will appreciate not having to lift full carboys. Also Because the carboy being filled is under a vacuum there is no concern about splashing In fact it aids in the removal of Co2 which also facilitates clearing.


----------



## Eikel

I would have thought the wild yeast's competitive environment would have created robust strains. I'm surprised you can rack to the top shelf, it makes physics sense but I would have thought the lift required would have been too great, I've had enough challenges lifting water from beyond 25-35 ft without going to some form of deep well pump.


----------



## Tenbears

The environment for wild yeast is far different than we use culture yeasts for. The goal of a yeast is to complete a reproduction cycle. The end result of which is to produce spores to propagate the species. Falling into a sugar solution is not the bonanza one would think as in most cases the end results will be death of the yeast without producing spores. Everything upon the breast of our mother is codependent upon it's neighbors. It has developed to respond to the situation and circumstances that surround it. Wild yeast are the top competitors within their particular circumstances. Few of which are a carboy full of must. In such a situation they are easily outperformed by a competitor that has been developed for that environment. 

My vacuum pump draws 29 in. Hg. ample to lift a low viscosity liquid 5 feet through a 3/8" tube.


----------



## maudbid

Tenbears said:


> My vacuum pump draws 29 in. Hg. ample to lift a low viscosity liquid 5 feet through a 3/8" tube.


That is almost 400" of water, should be more than enough. I like that set up!


----------



## Eikel

I'm mulling over the molecular actions of the free, bound and transfer of molecules , specifically O, as we work with TA, ph and eventually SO2. I think I have a grasp of the activity but I'm working on the sources and interaction/relationships. We had some discussions on the tartaric acids, which research tells me is the most prominent, strongest and easiest to manipulate. However, in looking at the various fruits made into wine, grapes are basically the only one contributing significant amounts of tartaric acids. Most other fruits are primarily citric and malic acids, with malic being the most prominent and most difficult to manipulate, requiring malolactic fermentation (MLF) to reduce its presence. Beyond some massive scientific testing, is there any way to utilize our previous testing to determine the dominant acid in the ph?


----------

