# Excelent Box Joint Jig



## peggjam (Mar 4, 2005)

Dan

Why don't ya just make me one?


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## HAB (May 17, 2008)

Its a great feeling to buy something, put it to gather, and then have it work the way it was advertised. Making one's own woodenware, especially when you can take your time and do it right, is one of those special feelings impossible to describe. Looking forward to seeing some pics of those great looking Finger Jointed Hives.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

*ouch*

fingers awfully close to that dado blade....


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## justgojumpit (Apr 9, 2004)

Dan,

Could you describe to me how you use this jig? I can see very little from the picture on the website, and they don't give much information about how to use it, aside from the fact that instructions will be sent. Does this ride in the grooves of the table? Also, is they a key so you move the piece over the same amount each time?

Also, how do you like the wooden version? Would you have preferred the aluminum one or is the wood one well crafted and sturdy? It is significantly less expensive, so I could go through 6 of these before I would get to the cost of the aluminum one.

Thanks for the info!

justgojumpit


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## MapMan (May 24, 2007)

justgojumpit said:


> Also, how do you like the wooden version? Would you have preferred the aluminum one or is the wood one well crafted and sturdy? It is significantly less expensive, so I could go through 6 of these before I would get to the cost of the aluminum one.


Well, perhaps four of them - you _do_ need wood to construct it (Baltic birch is recommended). Don't forget your time, and some wood lost in construction errors.

I got the aluminum jig, as it was on sale when I purchased it at Woodcraft. It is very well constructed, and really does the job. 

I've made similar jigs myself in the past, but precise repeatability is the key to making and using box jigs. The fingers need to be able to be minutely adjusted for size, and the gap is keyed to the finger width, and vice-versa. You want them snug fitting, or else you've got problems. After making two similar box jigs (_not_ using this Woodsmith kit, however) -- with not so great results, and seeing the aluminum jig on sale, I decided to purchase it. As I said, it performs very well. That said, based on Woodsmith's attention to quality, I'll bet the kit performs well too, as it does have a micro-adjustment system.

One thing that you do need to constantly check is to make certain that the knobs are locked tight before you start a new set of joints (you'll regret it if you don't constantly check), and also make certain that you keep the same pressure on the jig key spacer when starting new cuts.

To make the jig, it is best that you use a router table to cut slots for the adjustment blocks, and you also should have a drill press, as you need to do some drilling into end grain, and recesses for carriage bolts.

The plans are in Shopnotes Vol 2, Issue 8, March 1993.


MM


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## justgojumpit (Apr 9, 2004)

Thanks,

I was thinking that the aluminum version, although more expensive, would be the better buy. One question still remains: does this jig ride in the grooves on the table of the table saw?

justgojumpit


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## MapMan (May 24, 2007)

justgojumpit said:


> Thanks,
> 
> I was thinking that the aluminum version, although more expensive, would be the better buy. One question still remains: does this jig ride in the grooves on the table of the table saw?
> 
> justgojumpit



No, you attach it to your miter gauge. I have several miter gauges sitting around, so I have the jig semi-permanently attached to one - that way, I don't have to reinvent the wheel when I set it up with my dado set. I just have to adjust the height of the blade, and I have a setup block for that.

MM


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## justgojumpit (Apr 9, 2004)

And how do you know how much to move over the piece you are cutting? is there a key that you sit the cutout part of the joint over, and then just move over one notch with each cut?

justgojumpit


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## peggjam (Mar 4, 2005)

*is there a key*

I think most of the ones I have seen have a key, so your lined up correctly for every cut...I need to get one made, but haven't had time to mess with it.


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## MapMan (May 24, 2007)

justgojumpit said:


> And how do you know how much to move over the piece you are cutting? is there a key that you sit the cutout part of the joint over, and then just move over one notch with each cut?
> 
> justgojumpit


Yes, there is a key, but since this jig allows you to have a variable finger widths, you will be dialing in the width for this key, and there can be "slop" if you aren't careful in adjusting this width, and testing the joints with scrap wood of the same height as the boxes (always test the fit before you crank out a few hundred boxes - and as often as you can to avoid mishaps). I know, it is tough to describe this. Some jigs have fixed width blocks as guides for the fingers (and spaces) so this isn't an issue. An issue for those fixed size jigs is that the block (often wood) can wear down, etc. and become inaccurate with use.

MM


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

Another application for a box joint jig is connecting two cabinet face frames. I was building my kitchen cabinets for my last home several years ago and decided to join two stiles that made a 90 degree turn with 3/4" box joint top to bottom and was really pleased with how beautiful the contrasting oak end grain/straight grain looked. The box joint faced into the dining room and really looked great. I wish I had one of these jigs you guys are discussing because it would have gone faster. I spent a lot of time with vernier calipers getting the key just right.


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## iwombat (Feb 3, 2009)

If you want to see someone with way too much time on their hands, here's the Leonardo DaVinci version of the box joint jig.

http://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig.html


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## 2ndCharter (Jan 22, 2009)

iwombat said:


> If you want to see someone with way too much time on their hands...


Oh agreed, way too much time up there in Canada.

Here's the box joint jig from the woodworking magazine in action.

I'd like the guy that makes the one with the crazy gears to build me one but I'd be afraid to ask "how much?"


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