# Cedar Top bar hive- finish vs unfinished



## Aram (May 9, 2006)

Nice hive! That's a really big entrance though, robbing might be an issue.  

The cedar, even eastern white, will rot, by some accounts, at the rate of 1" every 100 years. What's your long term plan? 
If you want the cedar to gray leave it unfinished. You can caulk the screw holes and seal the end grain and let the wood age nicely. Otherwise pick your paint/ wood finish. if the roof is plywood definitely protect it or it will de-laminate. Use a primer before applying outdoor paint.


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## buckbee (Dec 2, 2004)

Check the ingredients of your boiled linseed oil - it often contains toxic heavy metals as drying agents. Raw oil is safer, although it takes a looong time to dry.


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## Beethinking (Jun 2, 2008)

What are you using for a roof? If a metal or plastic roof, then I would leave the body entirely untreated. However, if the roof it wood as well, you might at least seal/finish the roof.

Cheers,
Matt


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## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)

I think burr comb might get a bit crazy in the current configuration too  i'll post up pics later with it in a bit more normal state. it has a 7x24" observation window and will have a screened bottom with a removable solid bottom board. 

Anyway, the roof will be either plywood or something other than cedar so i will treat that and probably leave the hive to grey out. We live in New england so it's kinda local flavor anyway. as long as you guys don't think it will crack or warp that sounds like the best for the bees also.


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## Beethinking (Jun 2, 2008)

I've got around 8 untreated horizontal top bar hives made from Western Red Cedar. I've had no issues with rotting, warping, etc, as they are off the ground and protected from the elements by the roof.

Matt


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## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)

Sounds good. gotta do some sanding today then i'll take pictures with a real camera


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## Aram (May 9, 2006)

Don't worry too much about the screened bottom. They are overrated. None of my hives have it and I never had a ventilation problem. There have been reports here of excessive bearding and broken combs with hives that have a screen bottom. 
I don't check for mites as I wouldn't treat anyhow. So, for me, a screened bottom would only add problems and complicate a design which is attractive because of it's simplicity.
Good luck!


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## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)

Yea, my gf is actually the keeper so it is for her. She is ok with a solid floor also so i'll just get another length of cedar for that.


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## Beethinking (Jun 2, 2008)

I, too, am a fan of solid bottoms.


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## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)




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## NorthernIllinoisPlumber (Aug 17, 2010)

That looks really great...nice going.


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## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)

Thanks. Glued up the bottom board and window cover today. It looks like rain again tomorrow so i'll sand those and work on figuring out hardware. 

I'll see what you guys think.. It is going to be outside.. i want L-brackets for the ends of the bottom board so it can be removable. also i need 2 hinges for the bottom of the window cover. Material? brass, galvanized? cheapest but non rusting  (already have a galvanized bolt latch)


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## honeybeekeeper (Mar 3, 2010)

Go to the hardware store and get some *100% Pure Tung Oil*...It will keep the natural look and make it last alot longer.


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Nice job with the hive. One question that came to mind is what are you going to do for a stand? The first stand I used never gave me any confidence - a full TBH is really heavy and I was always worried the stand would fail. 
To replace it I picked up a solid old wooden bed frame from outside a frat house. I figure if it could come out of a frat house OK it would survive under the weight of my bees. I joined the head and the foot end together with short 2x4's, there is no wobble in it.


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## Wyldbee (Feb 27, 2010)

For what it is worth I treated my tbh with boiled linseed oil with beeswax mixed in it. The legs have some mildew on them. The body of the hive looks fine. I would not go the oil route again. Painting it would have been better in hindsight to me.

Your hive looks great. I am wondering how wide the bars are? Mine are 1 3/8'' with beveled points. I found that the bees will build honey comb out to about 2'' so I had to make spacers for them. 1/8" x 1/2" so they would not cross over to the next bar.


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## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)

I made it out of cedar specifically to have the least amount of treatment to the outside. I'm not going to paint beautiful wood, especially one that can handle the weather on it's own. 

bars are 1 1/4 as recommended by Biobees. Gf's hive now is 1 1/4 and doesn't have any issues. Only spot i may put a spacer is before the first bar near the entrance so the bar starts at the inside edge.. not the outside edge. 

Legs i'm not sure yet. Her dad might make a stand that sinks into the ground for the 2 hives Or I was thinking of making 2 2x4's cut to meet at the middle like i've seen in a picture. Will try to figure out an angle so it is stable. Will also learn from her hive now and make sure to angle the bottom of the legs so it will sit flat not on a corner. 

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## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)

DONE! .... kinda. Still have to decide on legs and after that we can figure out where we want the door holes to go. Also have to cut a spacer bar for the front and back to get the first real bar to start on the inside edge and to cover the extra space at the end.


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