# buying nucs or established colonies?



## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

I am new to beekeeping I have been reading up some I have not purchased anything yet. I found a couple of people that sell bees around me one guy is selling nucs for $150 or there is another guy that is selling complete established colonies double brood boxes for $250 the established colonies are hybrid Italian bees and I don't know what type the nucs are which would be better for a beginner I am planning on buying in the spring. If I get the nuc I am going to order a brood and super combo which is 135 on Mann lake right now.


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## MadAnt (Jul 23, 2016)

Depends on your budget and woodworking skills/tools.


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

Both of those are In my budget but at the top for a hive and bees because I still have to buy accessories. The hive from Mann lake is completely assembled and painted and free shipping. My woodworking skills are average with a decent amount of tools.


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## FlowerPlanter (Aug 3, 2011)

Find out more about the bees and how they treat. Go take a look. If you can find TF/resistant bees you might be better off in the long run, even if need to treat.


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## MaynerdOllie (May 20, 2017)

I'm thinking if the established colony is a complete hive, with all frames drawn with comb, than the cost is worth it, not having to buy the hardware, plus you are not out the time it takes the bees to draw comb in the brood boxes. Seems like you would stack your supers on, and let them rip...Be sure to keep them closed up for at least 72 hours after relocation.


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

If both places have healthy bees and things look well taken care of which would be better I think the guy selling the nucs is just starting selling bees and the guy selling the complete hive appears to know what he is doing and has been doing it awhile but that was just talking on the phone.


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## Sour Kraut (Jun 17, 2012)

"Be sure to keep them closed up for at least 72 hours after relocation. "

??????? WHAT ????


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## MadAnt (Jul 23, 2016)

*blm*, if both in your budget, go for a colony. You will have chance to "catch" spring flow. I hope you wouldn't take a risk to overwinter by yourself.


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## Saltybee (Feb 9, 2012)

FlowerPlanter said:


> Go take a look.


And I would add; find your local club and visit some of their hives. Bees look different the 3rd ,4th and 5th time you look at them up close and personal. 

It is tough to run a single hive, think about how and when you are going to get that second hive.
One hive is like wearing one shoe.


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## Arbol (Apr 28, 2017)

You can pay 200 for a 5 frame nuc

or

250 for a 20 frame hive...if this is strong you can make 8 nucs, requeened for 250 for a total of 500+-
vs 1600 for 8 nucs


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## Fivej (Apr 4, 2016)

I will give a little different perspective here. Both sound like good deals. Yes an established Colony will get you up and running quickly. However, if you want to learn about bees I think it is a very valuable experience to see how a colony develops. This knowledge will be invaluable to you in the future if you get more hives or do a split. I also second the motion to get two nucs if you can afford it. It will alert you to a potential problem if one colony is weaker than the other. It will also allow you to steal resources from a strong hive to help a struggling hive. Welcome to beekeeping. J


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## fieldsofnaturalhoney (Feb 29, 2012)

Find out all you can about both colonies before making a decision. For instance, how old is the queen in the double? Is it a double deep? This seems like a REALLY good deal to me if the hardware is included. Don't wait till Spring to place your order or you might find them both sold out DO NOT keep them closed up for 72 hours, or you will open up a surprise.


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## Eikel (Mar 12, 2014)

Well, because everybody has one, opinion that is. If I was starting over - order your protective gear and look in the Build It section of BS to see if building hive woodware is within your skill level. If so you have your winter project - build 3 hives; if not, order 2. Find a local bee club and mentor or at least a bee buddy; find and talk to a local beekeeper, most will allow you to tag along when they work their hives for a bit of "bee exposure." 
As said above, come spring go with the nuc, the education (worry and frustration comes with no additional charge) they provide you will return more bang for your buck. Take the other hive(s) you built/bought and set out some swarm traps.


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## MaynerdOllie (May 20, 2017)

I thought if you move a hive, you should keep it closed up, ventilated of course, for a period of time so the bees will re-orientate themselves to a new location...is this not true?


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## Eikel (Mar 12, 2014)

Can't say it doesn't work but I dislike locking hives down without a really good reason, too easy to cook them.

Obstructing the entrance "flight path" with a leafy branch or leaning an inner cover in front works for reorienting hives. You're still going to have some of the foragers returning to the old location, your choice on how you deal with them. I find obstructing the entrance to be less effective for reorienting/preventing foragers in splits from returning to the donor hive when you leave the split in the same yard. 

With the distance a purchased nuc is likely to be moved I wouldn't feel it necessary to "force reorientation." The foragers will know the location has changed the second they leave the hive and don't recognize any of the landmarks, they'll reorientate on their own..


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

Would a entrance reducer do the same thing as the grass?


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## MaynerdOllie (May 20, 2017)

I guess I got the 72 hour thing from From Mr. Bush.

"Reorientation
When bees fly out of the hive, normally, they pay no attention to where they are. They know where they live and don’t even consider it. When they fly back they look for familiar landmarks and follow them home. They orient when they first leave the hive but only certain conditions cause them to reorient after that. One is confinement. Any confinement will cause some. 72 hours causes about the maximum reorientation. After that it’s difficult to tell the difference. A blockage of the exit causes reorientation. People sometime stuff the entrance with grass. This combines the act of removing it, which sets off reorientation, with some confinement, which causes some reorientation. An obvious obstruction that causes them to deviate from their normal exit will set off reorientation. A branch or a board in front of the entrance that causes them to have to fly around it, will cause them to pay attention to where they are"

http://bushfarms.com/beesmoving.htm


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## Sour Kraut (Jun 17, 2012)

Again, the correct answer is D: It Depends.

It depends on how far you move them, or if it's a new split.

If not far, you need to do something to get the foragers' attention as they leave.

I've always found that pulling up some grass and throwing it against the entrance is good, since the grass will dry out in a day or two and the wind will blow it away.

As someone else said, a leafy branch or an inner cover leaned against the hive will cause the foragers notice that something is different.

For a new split, I would definitely move it at least a half-mile plus do the above.

and no, I don't think a reducer would do the job.


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## BigBlackBirds (Aug 26, 2011)

blm said:


> I am new to beekeeping I have been reading up some I have not purchased anything yet. I found a couple of people that sell bees around me one guy is selling nucs for $150 or there is another guy that is selling complete established colonies double brood boxes for $250 the established colonies are hybrid Italian bees and I don't know what type the nucs are which would be better for a beginner I am planning on buying in the spring. If I get the nuc I am going to order a brood and super combo which is 135 on Mann lake right now.


Both seem to be priced reasonably from what I've noticed lately. The double deep gives you 20 frames vs only 5 for only $100 more. However I think this is a poor idea for someone with no experience. Not only do you miss the experience gained from observing them grow for a season more importantly you will not have the experience to successfully maintain a full blown colony.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

First and foremost, I would NOT buy in the fall. Buy in the Spring (which I think you said you would do). 

Next, I would be skeptical of a guy who sells two brood box hive (overwintered) for $250 in spring if the Spring Nucs (5 frame) are going for $150. Doesnt make sense. 
So pay extra attention.


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

I am buying in spring the guy selling the nucs is doing it for the fist time this spring and is only doing 10 he is also buying the queens. The person that is selling double deep brood boxes for $250 he said he has around 200 he also sells them year round but I think he is cutting back due to his wives health which might contribute to the lower price. I got the info for the people from the president of the local beekeeping association. I also have someone that has some experience beekeeping that might could help me some.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

blm said:


> I am buying in spring the guy selling the nucs is doing it for the fist time this spring and is only doing 10 he is also buying the queens. The person that is selling double deep brood boxes for $250 he said he has around 200 he also sells them year round but I think he is cutting back due to his wives health which might contribute to the lower price. I got the info for the people from the president of the local beekeeping association.


IF both of the sellers check out references and are reputed with the local club and both are selling in the Spring, I would buy the double deep for $250, split at the first opportunity and make more hives. Assuming the double deep is strong when you purchase, you can get atleast 4 Nucs right out of the gate, get some good queens and go from there. With that method, you still get to play with "your nucs", get experience of managing them and you will have 4 hives going to hedge your bets.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

DaisyNJ said:


> First and foremost, I would NOT buy in the fall. Buy in the Spring (which I think you said you would do).
> 
> Next, I would be skeptical of a guy who sells two brood box hive (overwintered) for $250 in spring if the Spring Nucs (5 frame) are going for $150. Doesnt make sense.
> So pay extra attention.


> why would you not buy bees in the fall? 

>what doesn't make sense?


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

clyderoad said:


> > why would you not buy bees in the fall?
> 
> >what doesn't make sense?


The way it took it as that since I don't have any experience I don't need to start out overwintering a hive and I can see that if a nuc is 150 why would you sell a complete double brood deep hive for 250.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

clyderoad said:


> > why would you not buy bees in the fall?
> 
> >what doesn't make sense?


I have been approached by couple of people who purchased full hives in the fall. They read things about things online and havent made their minds yet (treatment etc), they want to experiment, they are split with 10 different opinions and answers they get from various folks and they are in the thick of having go prepare these hives, do something about mites that are evidently overrunning etc. 

For ME, purchasing in the spring provides better opportunities to make mistakes and learn. Its little bit more forgiving in that sense. 

All things being equal, someone selling 20 frame hive for $250 doesnt make sense if the going rate is $150 for new Nucs.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

blm said:


> The way it took it as that since I don't have any experience I don't need to start out overwintering a hive and I can see that if a nuc is 150 why would you sell a complete double brood deep hive for 250.


Yes, I think that is good advice for some one starting out. BigBlackBirds in post #19 is dead on with his advice.

People with lots of hives sell some in the fall for lots of reasons, not all bad ones. I downsize nearly every fall and sell hives, good hives that are being sold according to next years' plans or this years bank account.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

DaisyNJ said:


> I have been approached by couple of people who purchased full hives in the fall. They read things about things online and havent made their minds yet (treatment etc), they want to experiment, they are split with 10 different opinions and answers they get from various folks and they are in the thick of having go prepare these hives, do something about mites that are evidently overrunning etc.
> 
> For ME, purchasing in the spring provides better opportunities to make mistakes and learn. Its little bit more forgiving in that sense.
> 
> All things being equal, someone selling 20 frame hive for $250 doesnt make sense if the going rate is $150 for new Nucs.


>just goes to show you that they can't believe everything someone told someone who told them. Sometimes fall bees for sale are already set for winter, minus the feed. Gotta Know The Beekeeper not rely on the club feedback as most will be clueless.

>bees in the spring do provide a larger margin of error, no doubt.

>still don't know what doesn't make sense. Beekeepers have lots of reasons to sell hives, not all are bad (the wife is sick in this case). The hobbyist market consumes nucs every year and most wouldn't think of buying a full sized hive or be able to move it.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

clyderoad said:


> >just goes to show you that they can't believe everything someone told someone who told them. Sometimes fall bees for sale are already set for winter, minus the feed. Gotta Know The Beekeeper not rely on the club feedback as most will be clueless.
> 
> >bees in the spring do provide a larger margin of error, no doubt.
> 
> >still don't know what doesn't make sense. Beekeepers have lots of reasons to sell hives, not all are bad (the wife is sick in this case). The hobbyist market consumes nucs every year and most wouldn't think of buying a full sized hive or be able to move it.


And sometimes they aren't set for the winter. These unfortunate new beekeepers who approached me fell into that. Bought hives crawling with mites. And I am not even going go into why some beekeepers sell full hives in the fall. PM me if you want the juicy details. 

Hence the advice of going for full hive IF everything else checks out.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

DaisyNJ said:


> And sometimes they aren't set for the winter. These unfortunate new beekeepers who approached me fell into that. Bought hives crawling with mites. And I am not even going go into why some beekeepers sell full hives in the fall. PM me if you want the juicy details.
> 
> Hence the advice of going for full hive IF everything else checks out.


I know why some sell bees in the fall and know the 'details'.
I also know many a good fall colony of bees dies at the hand of it's new owner and the seller takes the rap.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

clyderoad said:


> I know why some sell bees in the fall and know the 'details'.
> I also know many a good fall colony of bees dies at the hand of it's new owner and the seller takes the rap.


Good, then you know its lose-lose proposition unless both sides know what they are doing.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

DaisyNJ said:


> Good, then you know its lose-lose proposition unless both sides know what they are doing.


No different than anything else.

So maybe First and foremost is to know what you're getting into, instead of
the blanket "First and foremost, I would NOT buy in the fall. Buy in the Spring ".


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

clyderoad said:


> No different than anything else.
> 
> So maybe First and foremost is to know what you're getting into, instead of
> the blanket "First and foremost, I would NOT buy in the fall. Buy in the Spring ".


I see where this is going. Good Bye.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

DaisyNJ said:


> I see where this is going. Good Bye.


This is where it's going: Great deals on good bees can be had in the fall and after pollination in the spring.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

clyderoad said:


> This is where it's going: Great deals on good bees can be had in the fall and after pollination in the spring.


So you sell great hives in the fall for awesome prices. And when they dont make it, you blame the buyers inexperience. Good for you. 

I have to remember that some people just turn simple thread into a complex inquisition.


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## Kcnc1 (Mar 31, 2017)

One suggestion. Buy in the fall. Take delivery, or pickup, in the spring. As previously stated, many suppliers are sold out in Jan. Even though they don't deliver or allow pickup until march


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## mbear (May 18, 2017)

How old are the boxes?
How old are the frames?
If you are going to buy used you had better know what you are looking at as not everyone is as honest as they should be.

When I sell whole hives it is because I want to unload old equipment. I would rather sell used equipment with a few years left im it and recoup most of my money rather than using it until it is no good. I am honest about it and sell used equipment in good working order. But how used is the equipment you are looking at?


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

DaisyNJ said:


> So you sell great hives in the fall for awesome prices. And when they dont make it, you blame the buyers inexperience. Good for you.
> 
> I have to remember that some people just turn simple thread into a complex inquisition.


Why make things up? 

I'll try once more.
Yes I sell good bees at fair prices in the fall, in good wooden ware too. Others do too. 
These are hives I would run next year if I had the need for them or didn't need the money late in the year. I sell them in the fall so I don't have to feed them up and or move them to a winter yard. Sometimes I move out on a yard and sell off the bees, like I did with a yard this fall. 
Last year I didn't sell any hives in the fall and had to make 25 in the spring for new yards.
I shy away from hive sales to new beekeepers.

If I have more hives in the spring than needed I keep them anyway and either run them for honey or split them for nucs in the late spring when I can mate queens. Then I sell the nucs for the spring prices local bees command. Spring nucs cost the price of a hive in the fall. 

Blame? haha Everyone loses bees, new beekeepers can be particularly good at it if they are not diligent.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

clyderoad said:


> Why make things up?
> 
> I'll try once more.
> Yes I sell good bees at fair prices in the fall, in good wooden ware too. Others do too.
> ...


All fine and dandy. OP was clear he was new to beekeeping. He was also clear that he will be buying either one in Spring. If you have a direct suggestion to OP on why he should be buying in the fall, you could have simply put forth those suggestions and be done with. Instead, you had to side track this thread with leading questions on why, I, who made a simple observation (while acknowledging OP preference for Spring), didnt prefer fall hives. 

While acknowledging fall hives may not be right fit for new beekeeper, you further suggest that I should have made a different suggestion of inspecting hives blah blah blah.. 

WHY on earth do you side track this thread ? Only come full circle yada yada yada... "I shy away from hive sales to new beekeepers". Good For You. 
If you have direct suggestion to OP, put it forward and be done with it. No need to engage me in a useless, offtopic suggestion on what I should have suggested. I hope I am being direct enough. Good lord.


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

DaisyNJ said:


> All fine and dandy. OP was clear he was new to beekeeping. He was also clear that he will be buying either one in Spring. If you have a direct suggestion to OP on why he should be buying in the fall, you could have simply put forth those suggestions and be done with. Instead, you had to side track this thread with leading questions on why, I, who made a simple observation (while acknowledging OP preference for Spring), didnt prefer fall hives.
> 
> While acknowledging fall hives may not be right fit for new beekeeper, you further suggest that I should have made a different suggestion of inspecting hives blah blah blah..
> 
> ...


I tried but I see it is hopeless. Have fun with your bees.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

clyderoad said:


> I tried but I see it is hopeless. Have fun with your bees.


You too.


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## Saltybee (Feb 9, 2012)

Fools rush in, so here I go.

Large economy size is generally cheaper.
Rather spend time in the fall talking than in the spring talking.

Brown eggs are more popular in NE than white eggs. If your local market has a market of 250 for a double and 150 for a nuc it is because that is what the local market does. Many things really do not have to make much sense. "Oh well" really is not that bad a motto. 

blm, the answer really is which will you enjoy.


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

I think would like the double brood because I can get honey right away and in the future I could split the colonies and make two when the time comes but I didn't know if there was a reason that a beginner shouldn't start out with a complete hive other than not seeing your bees grow.


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## MaynerdOllie (May 20, 2017)

Having watched my two hives grow this year has been great, started with two five frame nucs, right now they have two deeps, and a medium on, and they are bursting with bees, I am comfortable working the frames, and doing inspections, but if I was to have started with a hive this full of bees, I would have been more nervous than I was. I think I agree with a new beek starting with fewer bees, a lot to learn along the way. If I was to offer a suggestion, I would say that you need to have materials before you need them, most importantly, the next box, and more frames...I was not in need of, but I didn't expect to need harware as quickly as I did.


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## Sour Kraut (Jun 17, 2012)

MaynerdOllie said:


> If I was to offer a suggestion, I would say that you need to have materials before you need them, most importantly, the next box, and more frames...I was not in need of, but I didn't expect to need harware as quickly as I did.


Yes indeed. It's amazing how much extra 'stuff' you need, and how quickly the need hits, isn't it ?

That was the problem I had in my early years, never enough, never on hand when needed, and a mad rush to get it and assemble it.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

blm said:


> I think would like the double brood because I can get honey right away and in the future I could split the colonies and make two when the time comes but I didn't know if there was a reason that a beginner shouldn't start out with a complete hive other than not seeing your bees grow.


When I first started I bought 2 aggressive AHB hives in early Fall. In your
area there are AHB too. Is that why the price is so reasonable? Buying close to the winter time will not let you see the bee's behaviors over time compare to a Spring bought hive. To me it doesn't matter when you buy them just as long as you know how to take care of them through out the 4 season. Each season will have something new to take care of. Lean and grow as people say doesn't matter when you start. 
Since you already have a bee buddy, I'm sure whatever the bee issue is he or she will know or know somebody that know how to deal with it other than the AFB issue. Ask the seller if he's willing to accept a small deposit to lock them in until then. Yes, definitely start with a full grown hive for better management and stability. For the nuc boxes you can either buy or make the equipment yourself. You are thinking in the right direction alright. Another option is to set out some swarm traps to see what will take over. You never know until you try that you don't have to buy bees anymore from now on. With free bees all you have to do is to build the equipment to set them up.


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## Andrew Dewey (Aug 23, 2005)

MaynerdOllie said:


> I thought if you move a hive, you should keep it closed up, ventilated of course, for a period of time so the bees will re-orientate themselves to a new location...is this not true?


Absolutely False.


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## MaynerdOllie (May 20, 2017)

Andrew Dewey said:


> Absolutely False.


Oh, than I will start to question what Mr. Bush has figured out, and written about.

Confining them is an alternative to semi blocking them with brush, grass, inner cover, something, which triggers the foraging bees to re- orientate.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

I think that _"Be sure to keep them closed up for at least 72 hours after relocation"_ is too strong a blanket statement. In general terms closing up bees is very dangerous; I think the odds for losses from closing up are far greater than the few you might lose from failing to reorient after a long move. The distraction of some leaves or brush is probably more serving on a short move within their normal foraging range.

I have moved complete colonies many times, 300 miles over night and pulled the entrance screen off and let them loose. You see the bees do a few figure eights and head out foraging. They probably know from the jarring of the trip that something is up. 

Mentally questioning any advice is good advice; interpretation of it sometimes skews the intent.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

MaynerdOllie said:


> Oh, than I will start to question what Mr. Bush has figured out, and written about.


Well....


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

So when I get a hive this spring I need to put some grass in front of the entrance the place I am getting them from is around an hour away and any transportation trips?


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

We have many tips on transport with a simple search here. Just in case you don't see what you
are looking for, I would recommend a ratchet die down for the one nuc box to be placed inside your
passenger car. Use #8 window wire screen cut to fit over the nuc entrance. Then cover the nuc entrance with
a big laundry net bag. This should secure the nucs for an hour or so. Be sure to pick a good weather and roll down
all your car windows. Wear a full bee suit because you will need one for later full hive inspection. There will be a time
that you will need to fully protect yourself with the AHB in the area. I would suggest to invest in a vented full suit because the weather is hot there. For the full size hive you will need to fully suit up while inside your car except for the face veil. Anything happens along the way you can just put the veil on a zip up. I'm not saying things might happen but you never know just in case, o.k. I like to cover every situation if I can. Then you have to use a trailer for the double hive boxes if you don't want to break them apart. If you have to break them apart then be sure to use the #8 wire window screen attached to 4 wooden sticks to cover the hive boxes. Then secure the screen to the box. You will need 2 wire window screens for each hive box. You will also need a bottom box with an entrance for the small screen for ventilation during the transport. Make sure to bring 4 ratchet tie down to secured them on. Is this clear enough infos?


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

If you want to keep bees and raise your own replacement bees buy two nucs. Get two hives with brood chambers and honey supers set up for them when you get them next spring or whatever. If you can swing it keep the two empty nucs because you'll need them at some point. 

If you just want to have bees buy the $250 hives.


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

Free advice is worth what you paid for it. So...buy the hive. You get 20 frames and two brood boxes, a top, inner cover, and a bottom board. Not to mention a crap load of bees. During the winter, buy or build at least three complete nucs (double deeps). As soon as the spring flow starts, buy three queens and populate the nucs from the hive. Then you will have 4 hives for about 375.00 in bees and the original wooden ware. Figure another 150 for double deep nucs if you purchase premade. Not a bad deal.
You get to see hives grow and mature, and if you make a mistake on one, you don't get wiped out. 
Downside is that four hives requires work.
Upside is you might still get enough honey for your family the first year if you start early enough.
TIFWIW
PS.At some point you will still need to upgrade to full-sized hives, about 8 weeks after the splits if all goes well.


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

When building a nuc box do I need to find untreated wood and what type of paint do I need to use?


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## Hillbillybees (Mar 3, 2016)

Getting close to the time for you to do some research blm. Untreated because you dont know what it is treated with and the better the paint the longer it lasts. Many paint it all but most paint just the outsides or what will come in contact with weather or sun.
I dont think anyone has said it yet but buy a nuc and a hive and enjoy the best of both worlds if you can afford it. Also not mentioned was have an inspector, if you have one, inspect the bees before taking delivery. I believe your laws state that anyone selling bees has to have them inspected. Large operators in some cases are allowed to sign off on their own. Good luck in whatever you decide to do. Many great options have been given to you. 
As to Michael Bush he doesn't even paint his hardware so there you go. Youtube says use a fogger with outstanding drinking alcohol and Ox acid to take care of mites. I doubt it kills the mites but if it had some success it was because the mites got so drunk and happy on Everclear they forgot to be mean to the bees. Had a mean wife that would do that on Everclear too. Loved it when she drank that junk and left me alone. Had I thought of it I would have fogged her often.
Bottom line is whatever your final decision is you have to live with it.


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

I think I am going to do like JWPalmer said and build some nuc boxes and then I can have both.


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

You're gonna have a lota of fun. I build all my hives to match Brushy Mountain equipment. Dimensions differ slightly among manufacturers. There are plans and how to videos on YouTube. Pick one that matches your skill set and have at it.









These are two double box nucs I built Labor Day. Started off as 2- 1×12+10's, plus a little scrap I had laying around. Nice little project to stay busy. I paint the exteriors with Behr Premium Plus Ultra paint/primer. The little sample jars from HD will do the whole hive. I get the ones marked down to $.50


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## blm (Sep 8, 2017)

I will look and see what I find. I just talked to the guy that is selling the hives he treats for mites every year and has an inspector come out every year also and said he should be coming before long.


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## mlanden (Jun 19, 2016)

From what I've been told (in my 2nd year), any ol' paint'll do (basic latex, for example). I get the "off-cans" at Lowe's for dirt-cheap. Don't need much, and the colors are kinda funky, so it's a conversation-starter for people seeing my hives. Gray, yellow, green, blue. The bees -- so far -- don't appear to have an opinion as to color scheme for their digs.....

Mitch


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>Be sure to keep them closed up for at least 72 hours after relocation.
>I guess I got the 72 hour thing from From Mr. Bush.

I was simply listing the things that trigger reorientation. Confining bees for 72 hours is almost always problematic. In hot weather it is usually fatal. If you can keep them in a cool dark place like a basement, it could work and people often do this with mini mating nucs, which is why I listed it as a cause of reorientation. Any colony that has no water coming in for 72 hours is likely to have issues even in a cool place like a basement other than a handful of bees with no brood in a mini mating nuc... I would never move a full sized hive in warm weather and keep them confined any longer than it takes to get to the new location.

If you are buying a colony, the ideal thing to do is close them up with screen wire after dark, move them to the new location, open them up and put a branch in front of the entrance. The branch is not really necessary if the colony is more than 2 miles from it's original location, but I think anytime you move a hive it's a good idea so bees don't fly out without thinking about where they are. If you are moving a colony between 1/2 mile and 1 1/2 miles you will lose a lot of bees no matter what you do because they know where the old hive is and they will spiral out from there to find the new location and those spirals get really big at 1 1/2 miles... Reorientation isn't such a big deal as long as you moved them more than 2 miles...


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## Sour Kraut (Jun 17, 2012)

mlanden said:


> From what I've been told (in my 2nd year), any ol' paint'll do (basic latex, for example). I get the "off-cans" at Lowe's for dirt-cheap.
> Mitch


Here's what to do.....

Buy a can or two of the high-priced white primer at Lowe's, Home Depot, Sherwin-Williams, Pittsburgh Paints, etc.

While they are shaking it up, get a conversation going with the clerk(s) about how you heard their paint is best for bee hives. 

From there you can transition the talk to ' Say, do you ever have any customer-returned-it-cause-the-color-wasn't-right paint ? What do you want for it? '

Usually they have at least one or two gallons, maybe quarts, that somebody didn't like....which they''ll sell dirt-cheap just to get it out of the way.

And with the rainbow of colors you end up with, it helps the bees ID their particular hive in a crowded lot.


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## Saltybee (Feb 9, 2012)

crofter said:


> Mentally questioning any advice is good advice; interpretation of it sometimes skews the intent.


Had to laugh at that line. I often skew myself when misinterpreting advice.


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## Grady Stanley (Jul 7, 2017)

In July I bought a nuc from someone about a half mile (as the bee flies) from my home, which is where I keep my hives. The nuc was installed into the new hive at sunset, the entrance was closed with screen wire and I gave them an entrance feeder with plain water because it was still 90 degrees at night. Thirty six hours later just after daylight the wire was removed and bushy plants were placed in front of the entrance to block it as much as possible while still letting the bees in and out. The bushes stayed in the entrance for a couple of days and then I gradually removed them over the next day or two. They seemed to reorient just fine and although I'm sure I lost some bees back to their original site it wasn't enough that I could see a big difference.


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