# How to clean gloves (and why bother anyway?)



## William Bagwell (Sep 4, 2019)

I mostly use 15-mil nitrile. Some loss of dexterity just not as bad as leather. $3.50 at Gemplers or $5.00 at Betterbee (Same glove, labeled Gemplers from BB) First pair lasted over a year even with occasional rough use such as toting concrete blocks. Have tried dish washing gloves and (at least the few that fit) they tear up the first day. 

Oh, BB mistakenly says 15 MM rather than 15-mil.


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## G3farms (Jun 13, 2009)

I don't were gloves for the most part, but when I do I just wear a pair of leather drivers gloves. Yes the bees can sting through them.

As far as cleaning I don't wear them enough to get that gummed up.

Now for gummy fingers, I find lava soap works pretty darn good.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

Listening to you guys talk about getting stung through leather gloves sure makes me appreciate my bees. I almost always put on nitrile or latex so I dont sticky up door knobs, camera, etc. I dont get stung except when I pinch a bee or squat when one was on my pant leg.

Can't say that about my son's bees down in the Ottawa Valley. Leather gloves is standard there. I dont find them fun at all! Guess I am spoiled.


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## Tim KS (May 9, 2014)

Seldom if ever wear gloves. I do occasional get stung on the wrist if I pinch a bee in the cuff of my jacket. If they get pissy, I just go home and return when they calm down.


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## AR1 (Feb 5, 2017)

Oil will take off propolis, much better than soap. 

When I am out working the bees if the gloves get sticky I rub them in dust to dry the outer layer.


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## quiters (Mar 29, 2020)

I spray WD40 on them, scrub like you would with soap while washing your hands, scrape with a hive tool if necessary, wash with dish soap, then set out to dry for the next use.


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## Live Oak (Oct 11, 2008)

I use Fast Orange hand cleaner on my leather and rubber gloves. It works well and removes just about everything. Instead of using nitrile gloves which offer almost no protection, try using canning gloves. Canning Gloves If you keep an eye out on eBay, you can sometimes get good deals on these. They are much thicker than typical rubber or nitrile gloves but still offer a decent amount of dexterity. 

I am currently installing Apivar strips and tried these Beekeepers Rubber Gloves. They can be a bit trying to get on and off but work very well although a good bit more expensive than canning gloves.


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## gator75 (Apr 21, 2021)

If my gloves didn't prevent stings, I'd have no hands after the last cutout. Mine have never stung through gloves and I have stinging bees right now. I wash mine in the washing machine. Air dry on the fence. Works fine.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

Wow, so many good suggestions! 

I'm sure that wearing something that provides better dexterity would reduce the amount of stinging. Can't blame the bees for stinging when a butterfingered beek squashes them. Still, I like the leather gloves, but maybe they're more suited to some beekeeping chores than others, like applying treatments. I'll give the cleaning suggestions a try. They all sound like they would work better than what I've been doing.


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## Kuro (Jun 18, 2015)

I wash my leather beekeeping gloves (in the washing machine) or replace my nitrile gloves (which I usually reuse) when I get stung or find multiple bees trying to sting. I guess they respond to some sort of alarm pheromone left on the gloves?


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

Kuro said:


> I wash my leather beekeeping gloves (in the washing machine) or replace my nitrile gloves (which I usually reuse) when I get stung or find multiple bees trying to sting. I guess they respond to some sort of alarm pheromone left on the gloves?


Does the washing machine remove the propolis? I've reused nitrile gloves too. When I get stung, I always immediately smoke the sting site to smother the pheromones. I also keep a small tub of baking soda mixed with water near the hive and apply the paste to the sting site to neutralize the venom. It helps a lot in reducing the swelling.


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## jigsaw (Jun 10, 2019)

Live Oak said:


> I use Fast Orange hand cleaner on my leather and rubber gloves. It works well and removes just about everything. Instead of using nitrile gloves which offer almost no protection, try using canning gloves. Canning Gloves If you keep an eye out on eBay, you can sometimes get good deals on these. They are much thicker than typical rubber or nitrile gloves but still offer a decent amount of dexterity.
> 
> I am currently installing Apivar strips and tried these Beekeepers Rubber Gloves. They can be a bit trying to get on and off but work very well although a good bit more expensive than canning gloves.


 I have used fast orange and it does work.


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## Kuro (Jun 18, 2015)

8Ken said:


> Does the washing machine remove the propolis? I've reused nitrile gloves too. When I get stung, I always immediately smoke the sting site to smother the pheromones. I also keep a small tub of baking soda mixed with water near the hive and apply the paste to the sting site to neutralize the venom. It helps a lot in reducing the swelling.


Not really. My leather gloves used be white but now are brown (but still soft enough). I've never tried baking soda. Interesting! I use 'Bite & Sting Kit' to remove venom but it is probably overkill (it is designed for snake bite).


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

8Ken said:


> After getting stung on my hands one too many times, I ........... So why bother with those leather gloves anyway? They don't actually protect against stings


The real question is maybe - why do you get stung in the first place?
Not how to clean the gloves.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

Kuro said:


> I've never tried baking soda. Interesting!


Bee venom is formic acid, just like ant venom. The baking soda, being alkali, neutralizes the acid... theoretically. It's a matter of trying to work the baking soda down into the sting site so it can get at the venom, which is not always easy to do, but it does seem to help reduce the swelling. Of course, it's best to remove the stinger in less than 30 seconds, before it has a chance to discharge all its venom, and get the baking soda on it immediately.


GregV said:


> The real question is maybe - why do you get stung in the first place?
> Not how to clean the gloves.


If the gloves weren't so big and clumsy, I wouldn't be squashing bees and causing them to sting me in the first place. I can't feel the bees under my gloved fingers until it's too late. I'm tempted to stop using those leather gloves altogether, except maybe for things like performing treatments which don't require handling the bees. It's still helpful to know how to clean the propolis off of the gloves so the fingers don't stick together.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

I am fine wearing leather gloves and owning that I'm still afraid not to - I'll get there.

I did get a "Bug Bite Thing Suction Tool" (or my wife got it for me) and I can say it works. It has a scraper to get the stinger out, and a suction thing to pull the venom out. Even works for regular bug bites if you get to them soon enough.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

8Ken said:


> If the gloves weren't so big and clumsy, I wouldn't be squashing bees and causing them to sting me in the first place. I can't feel the bees under my gloved fingers until it's too late. I'm tempted to stop using those leather gloves altogether, except maybe for things like performing treatments which don't require handling the bees. It's still helpful to know how to clean the propolis off of the gloves so the fingers don't stick together.


There are jobs when gloves are better ON.
But at some other times, the gloves are better OFF.
But also the gloves does not need to be "big and clumsy".
I use goatskins, size "small" for tightness - I would not call them "big and clumsy" for the jobs they are suited for (clearly, not for picking a queen).
Unsure, suppose squishing the bees is just a not common occurrence here to worry about it.

The propolis is easy to just scrape off with a hive tool and move about your day.
I guess I don't even do that anymore with my torn up, crusty gloves (a least priority).
Time to replace have come.


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## gator75 (Apr 21, 2021)

GregV said:


> The real question is maybe - why do you get stung in the first place?
> Not how to clean the gloves.


I get stung because I have some defensive bees in my small yard. No rolling or mashing. They are on my hands after I gently as possible remove them inner cover before I pull the first frame. If I crack the cover, out they come in force.

So far, they appear just as defensive towards mites. That's why they are still with me.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

GregV said:


> But also the gloves does not need to be "big and clumsy".
> I use goatskins, size "small" for tightness - I would not call them "big and clumsy" for the jobs they are suited for (clearly, not for picking a queen).


I also have small size goatskin gloves, but they're still too large for my hands. Children's size large might work, but I'd prefer to try them on before buying. In any case, they're too thick for me to feel when I'm squishing a bee under my finger. I think I'm gonna get a supply of vinyl exam gloves and relegate the goatskin gloves to the protective equipment used when doing treatments.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

LBussy said:


> I did get a "Bug Bite Thing Suction Tool" (or my wife got it for me) and I can say it works. It has a scraper to get the stinger out, and a suction thing to pull the venom out. Even works for regular bug bites if you get to them soon enough.


Any chance you could post the brand name or a link where I might find that tool?


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

8Ken said:


> Any chance you could post the brand name or a link where I might find that tool?


That actually is the real name of it. 









Bug Bite Thing | Insect Bite Relief | Suction Tool


Bug Bite Thing provides instant bug bite + sting itch relief by creating a powerful suction designed to remove bug saliva/venom from the body.




www.bugbitething.com





I bought it on Amazon. I have two - I leave one in my bee jacket pocket and one rattles around in my truck.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

LBussy said:


> That actually is the real name of it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you! Order placed...


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

8Ken said:


> the goatskin gloves to the protective equipment used when doing treatments.


Vinyl is fine; they work.

I do NOT recommend leather gloves for treatment work.
They will soak/absorb in chems (and you may not even notice) - but later you may notice chem damage on your hands.
Ask me how I know.
OA is a good example.

Must have vinyl to handle the chems.


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## G3farms (Jun 13, 2009)

I would recommend leather for pulling the rubber caps out of the vaporizer, at 400 F it will burn your fingers and any OA left in the cup, if it splashes out it will stick and burn.

Ask me how I know!


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

GregV said:


> Vinyl is fine; they work.
> 
> I do NOT recommend leather gloves for treatment work.
> They will soak/absorb in chems (and you may not even notice) - but later you may notice chem damage on your hands.
> ...


Thank you so much for saving me from doing something stupid! I'll find some other use for the leather ones.


G3farms said:


> I would recommend leather for pulling the rubber caps out of the vaporizer, at 400 F it will burn your fingers and any OA left in the cup, if it splashes out it will stick and burn.
> 
> Ask me how I know!


I haven't yet even taken my vaporizer out of the box, so I don't know anything about the rubber caps. However, I'd probably let the vaporizer cool off before handling the business end. I'll be finding out about all that soon, as I'm planning a series of OAV treatments just as soon as I can find the queen and get her behind an excluder. She's being very shy lately.


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## bakerjw (Jun 7, 2021)

My gloves are canvas and I got them from Miller Bee. The dexterity isn't great but I don't injure many bees. I wash them with ivory soap or something else non scented. So far, none have gotten through them.


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## lenhart1 (Jun 18, 2020)

I don't use my leather gloves much-- only when I have a real upset hive and I don't think they have stung me through them. But I have had to clean propolis off of other stuff. 

Denatured alcohol or "fuel alcohol" comprised of ethanol readily dissolves propolis off of clothes, countertops, hive tools, and other hand tools. You don't want to get that all over your hands though because it is denatured with usually methanol which can cause blindness or death if too much is absorbed through your skin at one time. 

If you are concerned about fuel alcohol not being food grade, everclear and golden grain are two brands of 95% ethanol that you can buy in a liquor store (depending on your local laws) and will dissolve propolis. Vodka or any other spirits at 40% alcohol or less might work too, but I haven't tried it.

I use extended cuff nitrile gloves that go farther up your wrist and are 14mil at the finger tips. I change them out each trip to my hives-- I tried re-useable gloves, but they get nasty smelling so I'll shell out an extra $ to have clean gloves. The bees can sting through them, but they usually don't and it seems that they only have about a 50% success rate of actually making it through the glove when they try. I mainly use the nitrile gloves because I don't want to have to clean the propolis off of my hands or out from under my nails.


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## oldsap (May 1, 2016)

I rarely wear leather gloves as it seems the bees don't like leather much and I like the dexterity of nitrile gloves. I get stung as much as most but not when wearing nitrile gloves. Watch how fast you move your hands, slow deliberate movements help.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

lenhart1 said:


> I use extended cuff nitrile gloves that go farther up your wrist and are 14mil at the finger tips.


Thanks for that recommendation - grabbed some off Amazon to try out this weekend.


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## Bane (Apr 15, 2019)

I guess I take getting the occasional sting as part of the deal . .. I mean .. we are dealing with anywhere from 10,000 or MORE miniature guided missiles


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## bricknerdn (Dec 5, 2020)

8Ken said:


> After getting stung on my hands one too many times, I decided to switch to leather beekeeping gloves instead of the nitrile gloves I had been using. The first time I wore the leather gloves, they became covered in propolis so that the fingers stick together and make handling frames difficult. I've tried bleach, vinegar, laundry detergent, dishwashing liquid and probably some other things I forgot, but nothing takes the propolis off. Has anyone found something that actually gets gloves clean?
> 
> 
> 
> Your thoughts or suggestions?


I use 9 mil nitrile gloves. They are very durable and do not tear easily so I can re-use them many times. Yes the bees can sting through them, but the stinger does not fully penetrate, so I immediately pull the portion of the glove with the stinger up and let it snap back and that pulls the stinger tip out of my skin. The stings are barely noticeable.


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## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

8Ken said:


> Has anyone found something that actually gets gloves clean?
> 
> Today, I got stung _through_ the leather gloves AND through the disposable food service gloves I wore over the leather ones to try and protect the leather from propolis. There's hardly any manual dexterity at all when wearing those big, bulky gloves, so I ended up squishing a bee under my finger and couldn't even feel it until it stung me. So why bother with those leather gloves anyway? They don't actually protect against stings, and they even cause stinging by preventing me from feeling when there's a bee right under my finger.
> 
> Your thoughts or suggestions?


I wash mine, hang to dry, and if really stiff, rub saddle soap into them. Also it depends on where you get your gloves, the ones from the feed store I had to wear nitrile gloves inside. The ones from Dadant, I have not had a stinger get thru. Feed store gloves are pretty much a waste of money, made in China?


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## Omega (Jul 15, 2019)

Rubbing alcohol. Those little cotton squares in the first aid section work great.


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## drummerboy (Dec 11, 2015)

GregV said:


> The real question is maybe - why do you get stung in the first place?
> Not how to clean the gloves.


My thoughts exactly. Stings are rare in our bee yard, but sometimes (most times?) its just the beekeepers lack of technique, not the gloves or the bees or anything else we might blame for stings.

While we only use gloves occasionally, they are very old and quite stiff when we put them on, but loosen up after wearing for a little bit.


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## drummerboy (Dec 11, 2015)

Omega said:


> Rubbing alcohol. Those little cotton squares in the first aid section work great.


Place gloves inside a plastic bag and place both in a freezer for a couple hours. Cold should help to stiffen and remove propolis.


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## drummerboy (Dec 11, 2015)

LBussy said:


> That actually is the real name of it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I always thought this is what my hive tool was for, removing stingers


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

I mean, that works - but you will have a hard time creating suction with it. 

I found another use for it as well. One of the student's children got a sting. They were so interested in the sucker tool that they forgot all about crying and happily applied suction to their "owie."


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## Justjane (Feb 14, 2021)

8Ken said:


> After getting stung on my hands one too many times, I decided to switch to leather beekeeping gloves instead of the nitrile gloves I had been using. The first time I wore the leather gloves, they became covered in propolis so that the fingers stick together and make handling frames difficult. I've tried bleach, vinegar, laundry detergent, dishwashing liquid and probably some other things I forgot, but nothing takes the propolis off. Has anyone found something that actually gets gloves clean?
> 
> Today, I got stung _through_ the leather gloves AND through the disposable food service gloves I wore over the leather ones to try and protect the leather from propolis. There's hardly any manual dexterity at all when wearing those big, bulky gloves, so I ended up squishing a bee under my finger and couldn't even feel it until it stung me. So why bother with those leather gloves anyway? They don't actually protect against stings, and they even cause stinging by preventing me from feeling when there's a bee right under my finger.
> 
> Your thoughts or suggestions?


Hello. I use regular bee keeping gloves and nitrile gloves over the top and throw them out when they get grubby. It’s a bit bulky but it keeps the leather part of the gloves clean and then all I do is hand wash the fabric part.


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## garlorco (Jun 25, 2019)

8Ken said:


> After getting stung on my hands one too many times, I decided to switch to leather beekeeping gloves instead of the nitrile gloves I had been using. The first time I wore the leather gloves, they became covered in propolis so that the fingers stick together and make handling frames difficult. I've tried bleach, vinegar, laundry detergent, dishwashing liquid and probably some other things I forgot, but nothing takes the propolis off. Has anyone found something that actually gets gloves clean?
> 
> Today, I got stung _through_ the leather gloves AND through the disposable food service gloves I wore over the leather ones to try and protect the leather from propolis. There's hardly any manual dexterity at all when wearing those big, bulky gloves, so I ended up squishing a bee under my finger and couldn't even feel it until it stung me. So why bother with those leather gloves anyway? They don't actually protect against stings, and they even cause stinging by preventing me from feeling when there's a bee right under my finger.
> 
> Your thoughts or suggestions?


Try this, just put them in the freezer for an hour then take out and the propolis will crack and flake off.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

Justjane said:


> Hello. I use regular bee keeping gloves and nitrile gloves over the top and throw them out when they get grubby. It’s a bit bulky but it keeps the leather part of the gloves clean and then all I do is hand wash the fabric part.


I've been doing that too, but got stung through both gloves at once. The whole point of the goatskin leather gloves was to avoid stings to my hands, so they've failed at that. Also, I wouldn't have gotten stung at all if I hadn't been wearing them. I couldn't feel that I was squashing a bee under my finger. If I had been wearing nitrile gloves alone, I wouldn't have squashed the bee and wouldn't have gotten stung. So I'll give the leather ones to my husband to use for yardwork or something and will stick to nitrile gloves for beekeeping.


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## BSimon (Apr 23, 2021)

AR1 said:


> Oil will take off propolis, much better than soap.
> 
> When I am out working the bees if the gloves get sticky I rub them in dust to dry the outer layer.


I recommend piling you gloves before and after usage and hold the frames from top middle and sides toward bottom middles where there is no propolis


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## BSimon (Apr 23, 2021)

8Ken said:


> I've been doing that too, but got stung through both gloves at once. The whole point of the goatskin leather gloves was to avoid stings to my hands, so they've failed at that. Also, I wouldn't have gotten stung at all if I hadn't been wearing them. I couldn't feel that I was squashing a bee under my finger. If I had been wearing nitrile gloves alone, I wouldn't have squashed the bee and wouldn't have gotten stung. So I'll give the leather ones to my husband to use for yardwork or something and will stick to nitrile gloves for beekeeping.


To stop them from stinging the gloves smoke them very good or use smoke oil on them


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

BSimon said:


> I recommend piling you gloves before and after usage and hold the frames from top middle and sides toward bottom middles where there is no propolis


What is "piling you gloves"? I appreciate your suggestion, but I have to grab the frames from the top to get them out, and the tops are gummed up pretty good.


BSimon said:


> To stop them from stinging the gloves smoke them very good or use smoke oil on them


Thanks again, but unfortunately, smoking the gloves won't prevent bees from stinging when they're being squished. The problem is that I can't feel a bee under my finger with those thick gloves on. I've been squishing way too many bees because of the gloves, and I think it's time to ditch them (the gloves, not the bees).


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## drummerboy (Dec 11, 2015)

8Ken said:


> What is "piling you gloves"? I appreciate your suggestion, but I have to grab the frames from the top to get them out, and the tops are gummed up pretty good.
> 
> Thanks again, but unfortunately, smoking the gloves won't prevent bees from stinging when they're being squished. The problem is that I can't feel a bee under my finger with those thick gloves on. I've been squishing way too many bees because of the gloves, and I think it's time to ditch them (the gloves, not the bees).


Agreed, ditch the gloves....or rather, save em for those days when you absolutely must have them....those days always come, but less so if your hands are in direct contact with bees instead of gloved. 

Amazing how gentle and calm we can become when the threat of thousands of stinging insects is possible. 

There are only two other ways I know of to be as 'in the moment' as we are when inside a honeybee colony. I'll let you folks use your imagination for the other two.

I do recommend smoking your hands upon receiving a sting though, it does seem to work in discouraging more stings, that and removing the stinger(s) asap.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

8Ken said:


> I've been squishing way too many bees because of the gloves,


What is this "squishing bees" thing?
Squishing and squishing and squishing..
Just don't squish the bees then.
LOL

I did not squish a single bee this entire summer with my hands and I have plenty of bees to squish too (within the equipment - that's different).
What is going on with the "bee squishing"?
Stop doing it and move on already.
No need to be squishing those stinky, squishy bees.


Do you have one of these? Try one maybe?








Amazon.com : OULII Stainless Steel Bee Hive Frame Holder Lifter Capture Grip Tool Beekeeping Equipment : Patio, Lawn & Garden


Amazon.com : OULII Stainless Steel Bee Hive Frame Holder Lifter Capture Grip Tool Beekeeping Equipment : Patio, Lawn & Garden



www.amazon.com


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

drummerboy said:


> Agreed, ditch the gloves....or rather, save em for those days when you absolutely must have them....those days always come, but less so if your hands are in direct contact with bees instead of gloved.
> 
> Amazing how gentle and calm we can become when the threat of thousands of stinging insects is possible.
> 
> ...


I always smoke a sting site and remove the stinger right away, but I'm having trouble thinking of those other two instances when you're in the moment as much as when you're in a hive. I think I know one, but the second one escapes me. Maybe my mind is wandering when it shouldn't be.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

GregV said:


> What is this "squishing bees" thing?
> Squishing and squishing and squishing..
> Just don't squish the bees then.
> LOL
> ...


As I've mentioned, the gloves are so thick that I can't feel a bee under my finger. As soon as I apply any pressure... squish! And then... sting! I'll think about getting one of those frame grabbers. Maybe it would help me pry the frames loose from all that propolis.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

8Ken said:


> As I've mentioned, the gloves are so thick that I can't feel a bee under my finger. As soon as I apply any pressure... squish! And then... sting! I'll think about getting one of those frame grabbers. Maybe it would help me pry the frames loose from all that propolis.


But why do you have the bees under your fingers to begin with?
You smoke and/or spray some water - the bees clear away really quickly.
Don't you do this (clear the bees away)?

Unless I mean it (sometimes), I don't with work elbow deep in the bees - no need for it.
You clear the patient - then you work it.
First you look - then you grab.

Where exactly do you grab the bees?
On the frame ears?
On the boxes?
Do you look before you grab a piece?
This is all a little puzzle to me.

A whole point I put my gloves on (and there are 5-10 holes in my old gloves anyway - pictured) - I don't want to worry of grabbing a bee by an accident.
But this does not even happen if your first clear the area, then you work it.
OK, once a bee got inside a glove through the hole; so that did happen. LOL

PS: maybe you ran 100-200 hives - then you may have no time to look about much;
but I kinda doubt you run 100-200 hives


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

GregV said:


> But why do you have the bees under your fingers to begin with?
> You smoke and/or spray some water - the bees clear away really quickly.
> Don't you do this (clear the bees away)?
> 
> ...


I'm not a big fan of that downward snap to shake the bees off a frame. That REALLY makes them mad! So I'm inspecting frames that have lots of bees crawling around on them. I want to have a look at the bees too, not just the frame, so I leave them on there. Sometimes I have to reposition a finger that's on the backside of a frame, (for example, to flip the frame around), and I can't see if there's a bee there. That's why I'm flipping the frame around, to see the other side. Usually, I'm grabbing around the frame ears and sometimes on the sides. If I could feel a bee under my finger before I squash it, then of course I'd lift my finger and not squash the bee.

What's your method of clearing the bees before inspecting a frame? That quick, downward snap is a no-go for me, but if you have some other way, I'm all ears.


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## drummerboy (Dec 11, 2015)

8Ken said:


> I'm not a big fan of that downward snap to shake the bees off a frame. That REALLY makes them mad! So I'm inspecting frames that have lots of bees crawling around on them. I want to have a look at the bees too, not just the frame, so I leave them on there. Sometimes I have to reposition a finger that's on the backside of a frame, (for example, to flip the frame around), and I can't see if there's a bee there. That's why I'm flipping the frame around, to see the other side. Usually, I'm grabbing around the frame ears and sometimes on the sides. If I could feel a bee under my finger before I squash it, then of course I'd lift my finger and not squash the bee.
> 
> What's your method of clearing the bees before inspecting a frame? That quick, downward snap is a no-go for me, but if you have some other way, I'm all ears.
> [/QUOTE
> ...


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## drummerboy (Dec 11, 2015)

Slow down.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

I'm in the yard again today - I bought some of those thicker disposable exam gloves so I'll try to give them a try today.

Mite checks/treatments, feeding, and a couple of combines are on tap for today.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

The thicker latex gloves seemed to work well for me. We were combining hives and doing other "invasive" things, and no stings on my hands. I felt like I was more able to be careful, but I was also very conscious of my finger placement (which is likely a good thing.) They were nowhere near as sensitive as the thinner exam gloves, but definitely not as clumsy as my goatskin. I'd say they are a nice medium, and the longer gauntlets went over my jacket easily.


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## AR1 (Feb 5, 2017)

8Ken said:


> I'm not a big fan of that downward snap to shake the bees off a frame. That REALLY makes them mad! So I'm inspecting frames that have lots of bees crawling around on them. I want to have a look at the bees too, not just the frame, so I leave them on there. Sometimes I have to reposition a finger that's on the backside of a frame, (for example, to flip the frame around), and I can't see if there's a bee there. That's why I'm flipping the frame around, to see the other side. Usually, I'm grabbing around the frame ears and sometimes on the sides. If I could feel a bee under my finger before I squash it, then of course I'd lift my finger and not squash the bee.
> 
> What's your method of clearing the bees before inspecting a frame? That quick, downward snap is a no-go for me, but if you have some other way, I'm all ears.


Take your time. I also like to look at the bees on the frames. If your wrists are not strong enough to hold the frame while you turn it over, then rest one corner on the top of the hive while you turn it. Look at where you are going to put your fingers and find a spot with no bees. Or smoke it again to clear a spot.

1. Smoke the top of the hive before pulling the first frame
2. Have a nuc box or a spare super handy to put the first frame into when you are done looking at it.
3. Start on the edge frame not a middle frame.
4. Smoke the top of the hive again.
5. The second frame should be easy to pry out with the extra space you now have.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

AR1 said:


> Take your time. I also like to look at the bees on the frames. If your wrists are not strong enough to hold the frame while you turn it over, then rest one corner on the top of the hive while you turn it. Look at where you are going to put your fingers and find a spot with no bees. Or smoke it again to clear a spot.
> 
> 1. Smoke the top of the hive before pulling the first frame
> 2. Have a nuc box or a spare super handy to put the first frame into when you are done looking at it.
> ...


Those are good suggestions, and I already do all of them. During my inspection yesterday, I wore nitrile gloves and didn't squash any bees. The gloves were the only difference, except that the bees were a little more testy than usual because the flyway in front of their hive is somewhat blocked now by a big tarp that's helping block the wind now that we're having chilly weather.

I tried alcohol to clean propolis off my gear (because I had some on hand) and was amazed to see how well it works. When I go shopping again, I'll also pick up some of the other products that have been mentioned here for cleaning gloves. However, once they're clean, they're not going back to the hive with me. I'll find some other use for them.


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## Alto Beek (Jun 26, 2021)

8Ken said:


> As I've mentioned, the gloves are so thick that I can't feel a bee under my finger. As soon as I apply any pressure... squish! And then... sting! I'll think about getting one of those frame grabbers. Maybe it would help me pry the frames loose from all that propolis.


I use a frame grabber - easy to examine both sides of the frame and keeps bees calmer - no pudgy fingers poking them - hold frame securely in one hand and poke around with the other.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

Okay, I'm convinced.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

There was a reason I decided not to get one of those ... then I forgot what it was. I'm waiting for one of the experienced folks to shoot holes in the idea and remind me 

I do work with people who are unable to use those grippers. Some have devised little locks for the device so it does not require them to squeeze the handles together.


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## Alto Beek (Jun 26, 2021)

LBussy said:


> There was a reason I decided not to get one of those ... then I forgot what it was. I'm waiting for one of the experienced folks to shoot holes in the idea and remind me
> 
> I do work with people who are unable to use those grippers. Some have devised little locks for the device so it does not require them to squeeze the handles together.


Dadant has a frame gripper that has a"locking screw" on the slide - that's what I use


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

Good to know! I'll pass that along, that will help some folks I am sure.


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## drummerboy (Dec 11, 2015)

LBussy said:


> There was a reason I decided not to get one of those ... then I forgot what it was. I'm waiting for one of the experienced folks to shoot holes in the idea and remind me
> 
> I do work with people who are unable to use those grippers. Some have devised little locks for the device so it does not require them to squeeze the handles together.



We've got one of these (and many other tools, devises and gadgets) that were used a few times and now sit on a shelf, taking up space and gathering dust. Jus sayin'  

A veil, a hive tool, and a lit smoker along with at least one 'empty' box with a lid are the only things 'usually' brought to the bee yard.,,,all dependent on our intended actions, which can/do change with every inspection, making beekeeping a most enjoyable experience.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

8Ken said:


> What's your method of clearing the bees before inspecting a frame?


I did not mean I shake the bees off the frame (unless I mean to take the frame away - then yes - shake).
No need to shake the bees off the frame.
Too much work and bees get annoyed and the queen may fall outside for no need.

I did mean - I clear the holding area where I grab the frame - the ears.
Give them smoke above the frames and/or spray some water.
The bees WILL go down.
Then pry the frame and pull it out - WITHOUT grabbing the bees.
See this picture?
No bees.
Because I use a water bottle on these mild bees.
Use soft cover too; open as much as you need; work it.

Now, what is there to inspect the frame?
This picture below - I did not "inspect frames" since about mid-July.
The reason to inspect frames then was - to establish that new queen was laying (and she did).
That was the time I gave them a doze of OAD also (was a good timing).

After that I never "inspected frames" anymore in this hive - no need and no time for it.
Installed a super and went away.
Took the super off two month later; never looked inside the hive.
Last weekend I finally pulled a couple of side frames and looked at them to get the sense of the winter stores - which they have enough as I suspected.
Done inspecting for the year.

So, I can also guess - there is this excessive "frame inspection" going on where it is not needed.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

GregV said:


> I did mean - I clear the holding area where I grab the frame - the ears.
> Give them smoke above the frames and/or spray some water.
> The bees WILL go down.
> Then pry the frame and pull it out - WITHOUT grabbing the bees.


I've never gotten stung while pulling out a frame. It happens after the frame is out, while lots of bees are moving around on it and I'm readjusting to check the other side.


GregV said:


> Use soft cover too; open as much as you need; work it.


What is soft cover? 


GregV said:


> So, I can also guess - there is this excessive "frame inspection" going on where it is not needed.


There are two schools of thought on that -- the one that thinks it's harmful to inspect more than a few times a year and those who think they need to find out about problems before they turn into disasters. You and I are in different camps on that. I want to know if there are problems, such as my colony has become queenless or is not performing well, wax moths, ants, or SHB have moved in, DWV or other illnesses are showing up, robbing is going on, etc., so that I can address them before they get out of hand. On days that I'm not inspecting, I still visit the hive to make sure there's water available in their "bee bath" and to have a quick look at the activity around the entrance. 

I understand that my way of doing things wouldn't work for you, but it does work for me. All of those problems I just mentioned have happened to my colony this year, and I wouldn't have a colony anymore if I wasn't staying on top of things.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

8Ken said:


> I've never gotten stung while pulling out a frame. It happens after the frame is out, while lots of bees are moving around on it and I'm readjusting to check the other side.
> 
> What is soft cover?
> 
> ...


Clearly, you only have a colony. 

Even with my just 10+ colonies (but spread around far and wide) I have no time to be looking at each and every frame - have to be strategic and do what is essential (and forgo the inessentials).
Two schools of thought are trumped by time availability.
Then it becomes just one school of thought - to get the essentials done as quickly as possible - that is the only school of thought.
Weekends are short too - have to attend those all-important athletic events!

OK, I guess you'll need to figure out to handle those frames without being stung. 

Soft cover - ok, you will need to search. Enough said on that.


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## Lee Bussy (May 28, 2021)

GregV said:


> Soft cover - ok, you will need to search. Enough said on that.


or

"a piece of canvas."

I think the latter is shorter, but everyone has their way. But if two schools of thought are trumped by time availability, then it becomes just one school of thought - to get the message typed as quickly as possible - that is the only school of thought.

Just sayin'


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

LBussy said:


> or
> 
> "a piece of canvas."
> 
> ...


Or a piece of plastic.
Not expanding on all the possible applications - many.

Some of us are actually trying to work here too (to be everyone else's "google").

Already doing too much unrelated things.


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## 8Ken (May 12, 2021)

GregV said:


> Clearly, you only have a colony.


True. I only have room for one more in the other end of the long Lang, plus maybe a resource nuc. If I had my way, I'd add as many hives as I could manage, but I promised Hubby we wouldn't end up with a backyard full of bees. The plan was only to have enough bees to pollinate my veggie garden, so it's hard to justify expanding much beyond a couple of colonies..


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## IGHbeeman (Apr 25, 2018)

8Ken said:


> After getting stung on my hands one too many times, I decided to switch to leather beekeeping gloves instead of the nitrile gloves I had been using. The first time I wore the leather gloves, they became covered in propolis so that the fingers stick together and make handling frames difficult. I've tried bleach, vinegar, laundry detergent, dishwashing liquid and probably some other things I forgot, but nothing takes the propolis off. Has anyone found something that actually gets gloves clean?
> 
> Today, I got stung _through_ the leather gloves AND through the disposable food service gloves I wore over the leather ones to try and protect the leather from propolis. There's hardly any manual dexterity at all when wearing those big, bulky gloves, so I ended up squishing a bee under my finger and couldn't even feel it until it stung me. So why bother with those leather gloves anyway? They don't actually protect against stings, and they even cause stinging by preventing me from feeling when there's a bee right under my finger.
> 
> Your thoughts or suggestions?


I have been using a glove I found on Amazon that is very tough but still quite flexible for handling frames and tools, its a SHOWA Best Glove Size 9 Foam Grip 377 13. I use a pair for working in my solvent tank and they clean up well. I have been stung through them but only because I pinched a bee against a frame.


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