# Fall feeding



## orthoman (Feb 23, 2013)

Can you tell us more about what you fed them -- was it pure sugar syrup or did you add something else to the syrup?


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## TWall (May 19, 2010)

When you feed feed all the hives in a yard. As you have figured out weaker hives will need a smaller entrance. Be careful not to spill and feed on the ground.

I like to feed warm syrup in inverted paint can feeders placed directly on the top bars in late afternoon. A strong hive will empty the can by morning.

Once a robbing situation has started it can continue for a number of days.

Tom


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## PohioGypsies (Oct 18, 2017)

orthoman said:


> Can you tell us more about what you fed them -- was it pure sugar syrup or did you add something else to the syrup?


We used a two to one ratio and added Honey B Healthy and some aminos to it.


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## AR Beekeeper (Sep 25, 2008)

The bees will rob if they have a chance when plain sugar syrup is fed, but they don't smell sugar syrup as well as they do the additives you put in your feed. When bees from other colonies smell those additives they will start a robbing frenzy that is often impossible to stop. Next time use only sugar syrup with nothing added, and reduce the entrance down to 1/2 inch before starting to feed. Put the syrup on the colony just before dark if possible.


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## PohioGypsies (Oct 18, 2017)

AR Beekeeper said:


> The bees will rob if they have a chance when plain sugar syrup is fed, but they don't smell sugar syrup as well as they do the additives you put in your feed. When bees from other colonies smell those additives they will start a robbing frenzy that is often impossible to stop. Next time use only sugar syrup with nothing added, and reduce the entrance down to 1/2 inch before starting to feed. Put the syrup on the colony just before dark if possible.


Oh wow, I didn't realize that. It certainly was a FRENZY! We felt so helpless. I guess we're really blessed that the robbing stopped at all AND that they seem to have kept all their honey.
I will do just as you said and give them plain sugar water just before dark. When is it appropriate to add Honey B Healthy and other supplements?


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## AR Beekeeper (Sep 25, 2008)

I have never found it necessary to add anything to syrup. The bees add any glandular secretions necessary to process the syrup for use or storage.


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## PohioGypsies (Oct 18, 2017)

AR Beekeeper said:


> I have never found it necessary to add anything to syrup. The bees add any enzymes necessary to process the syrup for use or storage.


Ok. Is it okay to still use the top feeder or is there a safer way? Also, do I want to remove the feed in the morning or is it okay to leave it there during the day and just refill it at night?


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## AR Beekeeper (Sep 25, 2008)

Yes, feeding through the top of the colony is best, and the feeder and unused syrup can be left on the colony. It appears to me the initial colony activity when the syrup is introduced into the colony is a cause of the "probing attacks" by the robbers. The smell of the syrup where there was none before excites the bees and they probe any crack or opening in the hive bodies.

If the robbing attempts continue on the reduced entrance, try placing an object against the front of the hive to create a "tunnel effect" for any bee approaching the entrance of the hive. The robbers do not like to fly into an area when they can't easily retreat from it. Any thief doesn't want to be caught in a confined space.


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## PohioGypsies (Oct 18, 2017)

Thank you so much for the help! There's so much to learn and I'm really glad to have found this resource.


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## orthoman (Feb 23, 2013)

When I first started beekeeping, I added one of the products sold (can't recall which one -- it smelled great to me) and the bees in the neighborhood really loved it. It took about 30 minuted before the robbing started. I don't use it anymore. It might be OK if doing open feeding (which apparently isn't legal in our state) and the syrup is placed quite a distant away from the apiary. 

As mentioned above, feeding plain syrup is a better approach but during a dearth, the bees still find it fast.


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## PohioGypsies (Oct 18, 2017)

It may be the Honey B Healthy. It smells delicious! It was recommended at a beekeeping class we took and then again by the people we bought our bees from. I wish I had known the risks of using it prior to doing so.


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## BCB (Aug 21, 2016)

AR Beekeeper said:


> Yes, feeding through the top of the colony is best, and the feeder and unused syrup can be left on the colony. It appears to me the initial colony activity when the syrup is introduced into the colony is a cause of the "probing attacks" by the robbers. The smell of the syrup where there was none before excites the bees and they probe any crack or opening in the hive bodies.
> 
> If the robbing attempts continue on the reduced entrance, try placing an object against the front of the hive to create a "tunnel effect" for any bee approaching the entrance of the hive. The robbers do not like to fly into an area when they can't easily retreat from it. Any thief doesn't want to be caught in a confined space.


First-year guy here...

I don't understand this feeding process. I see many types of equipment in catalogs, but just looking at a pic is not really "how to" help...

Could someone take a pic of a top feeder, or maybe even other feeders when they are in place and functional?...

I have read several books, magazines, etc. on the bee keeping hobby, but opinions seem to vary, and sometimes the writer just doesn't explain thing very well, at least not to me anyhow...

Thanks...BCB


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

bcb
I spent yesterday looking at you tube vidios of making hive top feeders. I sometimes use you tube to get my mind to start to wrap around an issue.

If you want to feed up to a gal pretty fast, a shim and two gal zip lock bags (about 1/2 gal in each) on top of a hive with slits in the top of the baggies works well. A healthy hive can take that down in two days.

In fall, I like to feed faster and only make one trip to the hives and so am going to make a few like is on the feeding vidio here that uses straw for the flotes.
http://www.uoguelph.ca/honeybee/videos.shtml

I have two made like this with the screen wire that the bees use as a ladder to get to the serup but have used straw in a 5 gal bucket open feeding and it floats as you add liquid and so am going to make some with out the screens and just use straw. In the spring for small splits, I use a pint or quart jar over the hole in the inter cover.

You tube should give you a start on seeing a feeder in action.
I hope this helps.
gww


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## orthoman (Feb 23, 2013)

There are various ways to feed. 

When / If you buy a "kit" you typically get a Boardman feeder that feeds through the entrance of the hive. This works but contributes to robbing (i.e. can stimulate) and can be difficult for the bees to access when it is cold b/c the cluster of bees is located quite a distance from the feeder. These do work great if you need to provide a water source to your hives in the summer.

There are "Frame Feeders or Division Board Feeders" which are basically just a plastic reservoir that are made to be roughly the size of a foundation frame. It hangs down in the hive like a regular frame and typically placed at the outside of the wooden frames in the brood box, filled with syrup and the hive closed up. The bees crawl in to get the syrup. There are different designs of this type of feeder - some come with tops and some have mesh to allow the bees to crawl down and be able to access the syrup and not drown. Probably main downside is they can be expensive and that you also have to open the hive to refill it.

There are also top feeders that hold a couple of gallons of syrup. These are the size of a small / shallow super with a plastic reservoir - that is usually divided. The bees have access up through the middle - between the reservoirs. I personally have a couple of these but don't like them -- not sure why. Don't have to go down into the hive to access these -- can fill them from the top.

Probably the most common type of (top) feeder used is simply a large jar or container -- I prefer a 1 gallon paint can but glass pickle jar or mason jar works just fine. Why the paint can?? Because I can put a fairly large amount of syrup on the hive at one time, handle makes carrying feeder easy, durable, fairly cheap. To use or make one, simply punch/drill a number of small holes (6 to 10) in the top of the container, fill up the container with syrup, invert the container and let the syrup drip out until is stops dripping , then place it either directly on top of the frames (lid side down) so the bees can access the syrup ---- or, do the same inversion thing but rather than putting the container directly on the frames, place it above the hole in the inner cover. I like to prop it up with 2 small sticks so there is a little room between the lid with holes and the inner cover.... then, because the container sticks up, you need to place an empty box or boxes so the telescoping cover can be placed and the hive close up.


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## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

In this thread........is the "hive top feeder" the trough kind that is sealed inside the hive or mason jars or some other sort on top of the hive?
Number one rule I have found is seal up the feed in the hive. use duct or blue masking tape on any cracks that allow robbers in any place but the front lower entrance. Robber screens as well as reduced entrances are a must. other bees are easier to stop. wasps and hornets are a whole different story. 
I'm trying paint cans this year. I bought and used plastic sealed hive top feeders that have a hole in the middle for the bees to go up into. Even though they were starving they were very slow at taking in the syrup for the most part. With 4 one gallon inverted paint cans I can feed once a week at each yard.


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

Deleted - dupe


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## beesohappy (Jun 3, 2009)

gww said:


> http://www.uoguelph.ca/honeybee/videos.shtml


Wow! Thanks for posting this link! Seems like a lot of great information for guys like me that don't like to read.


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## PohioGypsies (Oct 18, 2017)

I watched the video about fall feeding and overwintering your bees. He mentioned feeding the bees about 4 imperial gallons per colony with enough time for them to ripen it. How do you know when there's enough time left for them to do that? Is it too late to be feeding them now? Do you feed them *just* 4 imperial gallons and then not give them any more even if the cold weather hasn't hit yet? I need a little clarification, please.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

You need to figure out how much it takes for bees in you area to winter on and then try and wiegh them or do like I do and guess. My area which is zone 5b missouri recomends fourty to sixty pounds. When I add 2 to 1 I consider that one gal adds up to 10 lbs, not perfect but good enough. Some people count seams for bees (the bees in between the frame. If you do that you need one comb of food per seam min and more then two combs per is a waste. If it gets to late and cold, just put a 1.5 inch shim and lay a damp news paper on your top bars and dump a bunch of dry sugar on the news paper and sprinkle it lightly with water or not, either way they won't run out if they have that. Maby get some info from these vidios made by those in your area.
http://www.ohiostatebeekeepers.org/beekeeping_class/
Good luck. 
gww
Ps I am about as new as you are so keep that in mind while you take advice from me but I believe it is good advice on this.


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## BCB (Aug 21, 2016)

Thanks...

I've saved both of the links mentioned. I have watched a couple of them and they seem pretty informative...

BCB


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## PohioGypsies (Oct 18, 2017)

Thanks, GWW! I'll check it out.


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