# woodworking "beehive" shop ?



## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

ok i have at home an old craftsman tablesaw which is about 15 years old which i plan on replacing now that i want to build hives.

i purchased my initial few hives to get started quickly but still have plans to build many other pieces such as: feeders, fancy sbb, frames, pollen traps, condo hives, etc.

1) what are the must have "stand up" power tools to accomplish the above?

2) what size, type and preferred brand?

3) what are the nice to have tools?



------------------
NH Beekeeper

** Have you seen BeeBlogs.com ?


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## BULLSEYE BILL (Oct 2, 2002)

>1) what are the must have "stand up" power tools to accomplish the above?

I have three power tools that I use the most.
Craftsman 10" tablesaw
Craftsman benchtop drill press
Craftsman 18.2v portable drill

>2) what size, type and preferred brand?

See above

>3) what are the nice to have tools?

Adjustable furniture (wood) clamps.
IF you make frames, (I don't) a power stapler and/or nail gun.
Wagner power painter if you have a lot of painting to do.

I haven't found anything that I could not make with the tablesaw, and a power driver. The benchtop drillpress is useful if you want to predrill, glue and screw you boxes as I do. If you just want to nail them you won't need it. I got by with the hand drill for a long time. I also find that the Wagner takes more time to clean than time useing it.


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## Walt McBride (Apr 4, 2004)

If that Craftsman table saw is a 10" saw, cast iron table and belt driven then keep it. If not keep it anyway. It can be used for other setups when you don't want to change setings on main saw. It is realy nice to have a large table top that you can rip a 14" or so on ether side of the blade. A 75 tooth or so carbide blade and a adjustable (wobble) dado blade, both sized to fit table saw. A circular saw to cut long lengths down to handle safely on table saw.
A palm sander. Any other power tool that you think you will need,wait untill you realy think you need it. You probably will not. I have other power tools but the above tools are what I use over and over for bee equipment. For years I looked at the adds on a palm nailer. Last summer I found a sale on a imported one it was a knock off of the US one. I wish I had bought the tool 20 years ago as there are about 45 8D nails to drive in a deep hive box, oh yes it is air driven.
Walt


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## wayacoyote (Nov 3, 2003)

I mostly just use Papa's old craftsman tablesaw and occassionally his cordless drill.I think that the right jig can be as important as the right tool. I made the "frame assembly jig" from this website and love it! I use an electric stapler/bradder for inserting foundation and placing screen material.

Last tip, I always use primer under my paint.


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## nursebee (Sep 29, 2003)

For tool reviews you should check out the magazine Fine Homebuilding or consumers reports. They review tools at least once a year. Fine Homebuilding will probably have back issues for sale, published by Taunton Press.

I'd say a good hammer. A frame building jig from WTK. An air compressor. Frame nailing device if you use wax foundation. I used to paint with my compressor but stacking the boxes up and using a roller has been more efficient.

Have you checked out Humble Abodes prices on woodenware? If I lived up your way that is where I would get my boxes and frames from.


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

if you could give me Humble adobe's contact info that would be greatly appreciated









thanks


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## dickm (May 19, 2002)

I have a 40 year old Craftsman. It is now dedicted to dado work. Even a good dado blade is a pain to take out and put in. I have a better 10" table saw for a workhorse. I made the frame jigs and love them. I also made a simple jig to hold hive bodies square when nailing or screwing. I use a screw gun to put a few screws in and nail the rest. I stack up supers and paint with a roller: Primer + 2 coats of Acrylic Latex. I have a drill press but wouldn't buy one just for hives. I make all my sbbs , lids and miller feeders. The rest I buy and assemble.

Hope this helps,

Dickm


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## magnet-man (Jul 10, 2004)

Well it all depends upon how much money you have to spend, but here are my thoughts.

Back in New Orleans when I was in my late teens I did some woodworking. I was into fine woodworking and made a number of items in mahogany. The tools I owned needed to be multifunctional because of a limited budget. The tools I selected then are not the tools I selected recently when I got back into woodworking.

First and foremost you need a table saw. This is truly the most versatile tool in any shop. With a few jigs, purchased or homemade, you can make any joint used on a hive. You will be able to make your rabbit, box or finger joints, and even hand holds. This is the one tool you dont want to be cheap on. Avoid Harbor Freight for this item. I have a Delta contractor's saw with Unifence. I like this saw because it comes with a large table the only change I would make would be the fence. I would have liked to have had a Biesemeyer fence because it is easier to clamp to and make jigs that fit right over it. http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=4742 

The two brands in contractor table saws I like are Delta and Jet for a variety of reasons. The tables are usually true and flat. The T-slots are machined accurately so you miter slides true and doesnt have any excess play. They both are very heavy and weight keeps vibration down. The tables are also relatively deep and that makes it easier to rip long boards straight. With tabletop and small saws the fence may extend only a few inches before the blade and this increases the chance of binding when ripping boards. 

You also need to have a saw with an extended table. This will allow you to rip a sheet of plywood down the middle. The other nice feature with an extended table you can add a router and make it a router table. The one jig that few people make and is one of the easier one to make is a sliding tabletop. With this jig you can cross cut long boards. I have two powered handsaws and do not use them at all when making hives. 

You will also need a dado blade. I would get a traditional stack and not a wobble blade. The stack type will give you a flat cut while the wobble will be slightly rounded. While this is not that important to hives, you might end up making something like bookshelves where it may matter to you. Also with a stack dado you can reproduce the exact dado width many months latter. For this Item I would go to Harbor Freight. You can pickup them up on sale for as little as $19.95 and freight is very affordable. The inexpensive freight is the US Mail and can be very very slow.

Two or three roller stands can be very useful if you work by yourself. Harbor Fright item 46074 around $9 each on sale.

If you are going to cross cut long boards without a helper you need to make a roller stand to support the end of the board. Go to K-mart and buy some ball bearings for roller skates. Bolt these on the sides of a 2 by 4 like an inline skate. The end of the board can slide on these while you use the sliding table.

I would also get a cordless drill and get a bench top drill press. My cordless is a Dewalt and my drill press was one on sale at Harbor Freight for $39. You will also need to get a counter sink drill bit if you are going to screw the bodies. The counter sink bit keeps the wood fibers from splitting and thus extends the life of the hive. A counter sink bit will run around 6 to 8 dollars.

If you are going to assemble a lot of wooden frames I would consider a nail gun and small compressor from Harbor Freight when they go on sale. They go on sale every 4 to 6 weeks these two items should set you back around ninety to one hundred dollars. It takes a patient man to assemble fifty frames (two hive bodies and three suppers) with a hammer and nail.

As you probably realize I dont think it is wise to skimp on the table saw. Spend your money there because that tool can do so much if it is good. A good tool will not make a good woodworker out of a bad one but it can make a fair woodworker into a good one. Also if the tools is easier to use it will be more enjoyable. 

Hope this helps. These are the tools that I would get and everyone has their own opinion what is best. So I am sure you will get lots of recommendation.


[This message has been edited by magnet-man (edited November 13, 2004).]


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## BULLSEYE BILL (Oct 2, 2002)

>if you could give me Humble adobe's contact info that would be greatly appreciated 

If you are going to buy your boxes, you can not make them, including shipping, for less than Browning Cut Stock prices. Shipping is not bad for forty or more, delivered by truck on a pallet.

I like their finger joints better than the type cut by Humble Adobes. 

Browning Cut Stock
1571 Hwy. 3
Juliaetta, Id 83535
208.276.3494


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

1) Rockwell 10" table saw
2) Dewalt 10" radial arm saw
3) stackable dado blades (don't skimp here)


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## magnet-man (Jul 10, 2004)

Dado blades can run from $19.95 to over $350. If the dado blade is only going to be for hive and unfinished work than an inexpensive blade will do. I do not use my $150 Freud dado set to make hives. I use my inexpensive Harbor Freight blade for that. Good blades start at around one hundred dollars.

A good used radial arm saw for around $100 would be a welcome addition if you have the room for it. You would not have to make a sliding table for your saw. A shaper head can also be attached to it to make molding. The radial arm saw was my first saw back in high school. I have a very health respect for them. They can be very dangerous. More people are injured on table saws only because there are more of them. Do not rip on a radial arm saw. If you buy a used Craftsman, there is a recall on the blade guard and they will replace it free. There was a real kick back danger. I know this from experience. 

[This message has been edited by magnet-man (edited November 13, 2004).]


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## Oxankle (Jan 8, 2004)

Amen on the Kickback. 

Friend of mine ran thru the grass in Vietname for two tours and came out whole. Came back and went to work for a contractor and lost an eye when a tablesaw threw a sliver of wood back at him. 

Be careful and make a good OLD man.


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## nursebee (Sep 29, 2003)

Humble Abodes
Windsor Maine
email [email protected]
1-877-423-3269
They treated me well. Took care of problems. Except for shipping costs I would still buy from them.

I called Browning once because I saw great prices. I think they laughed at me when I tried to order from them because of HIGH shipping costs. I don't remember the specifics though.


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## greenbeekeeping (Feb 13, 2003)

In my shop the things that I use for bee equipment is a small craftsman table saw, Craftsman radial arm saw, drill press, air compressor and stapler for frames. I don't have a nail gun yet but I am looking to get one. I also have a router that I use when I am rebuilding old equipment and the frame rest needs replaced.


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

thanks for all the tips some good stuff here.

i am suprised no jig saw magnet-man to cut those fancy "shapes" to lead the bees onto the correct landing board









any suggestions for central dust collecting system.

how do the suppliers cut those corner joints on the boxes? do they use a jig and router like i have seen just seems like so much work.



------------------
NH Beekeeper

** Have you seen BeeBlogs.com ?


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## BULLSEYE BILL (Oct 2, 2002)

>how do the suppliers cut those corner joints on the boxes? 

Don't know how the big boys do it, but here is a good way for you to do it.
http://www.beesource.com/plans/boxjoint/index1.htm


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## magnet-man (Jul 10, 2004)

Well New Hampshire Beekeeper I do have a jig saw but I dont use it to make hives. By fancy landing boards I guess you are referencing me painting my landing board on my small bee house? I did finally see a bee cross the color line. 

As far as a dust collection system, that all depends upon money. I have my saw mounted on wheels and I can roll it outside if I want to. Saves lots of clean up. There are the shop vac type and they are loud. Then you have the impeller systems that are low suction but higher volume and those are nice because they are quite. If I had the extra money I would get the impeller system because of the noise. A used shop-vac and a big old garbage can is pretty cheap though.


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## Curry (Sep 22, 2003)

I've got a tablesaw, which is a must for beekeeper woodworking, but I also couldn't make it without my Delta planer. I use some smoke-damaged oak which i got for free, and also pallet wood for my sbb's, etc. I use the heck out of my planer to get the wood clean and smooth. I use a sawsall to cut the nails from pallets, before planing and cutting the pallet wood (only oak or hickory).


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## tarheit (Mar 26, 2003)

Most used... Tablesaw followed by the air compressor (with staple gun). Make sure you get one that can handle a dado blade. I build most everything on my cheap 10" craftsman including salvaging pallet wood. One day I'll upgrade to a better table saw (unisaw or better), but it's not a priority or necessary for building beekeeping equipment.


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

curry what model planer do you have? 

ok what might a uni-saw be?

using pallets for wood hmmm never thought of that?

magnet-man i was talking about your thread regarding the shapes that a bee can identify assuming that you where going to cut out wood shapes for bees to identify their hive from others? looks like i am off track










------------------
NH Beekeeper

** Have you seen BeeBlogs.com ?


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Comments:

1. Cheaper to buy precut unless you work for nothing. But it is a great excuse to build / upgrade your wood shop! 
2. Good table saw is most important. Best buy out there IMO is Grizzly. Go for the most saw you can afford. It is the heart of your shop. Look for FLAT cast iron. http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G0444 is the minimum. 
If you can find an old table saw, you can always upgrade the fence with an Incra or other type, then use the fence for your router too. Also you can upgrade the motor easily. I have an old Delta contractor's saw with extended Incra table with router set up that works well for me with upgraded motor.
3. Dust collection. I like the Grizzly http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G1028Z this is what i have works good. Just move it from machine to machine. Big 4 inch hose.
4. Air compressor with staple gun is key IMO to fast assembly of frames and bodies. I can't imagine not having that. Lots of good deals available on this. Plus you can pump up your tires.
5. Agree better to get a good stack dado blade. Not a wobble blade they are a waste of money.
6. Agree you need a drill press. You can skimp here, lots of used stuff out there.
7. Must have a jointer. At least 6". either delta or grizzly or jet or old BIG used one BUT NOT a cheap old LITTLE one, some of the old craftsman are a waste of money (Sorry craftsman fans). I just gave one away.
8. Hard to imagine not having a band saw. if you can find a cheap used one you can always upgrade the motor. You are buying the motor and the casting. 14" delta is minimum. Forget about the benchtop ones.
9. finally a planer. 12 1/2 inch portable will work.

Takes years to save up, but start at least with the best table saw you can afford, then add.

You may be able to find a good deal on a used radial arm table saw. That was my first saw (Craftsman).  Helpful for crosscutting. They are dangerous though. But with the new miter saws I don't use the radial much anymore. If I was starting out, I would get a 10" miter saw, maybe go whole hog and get a sliding one with a portable table (on wheels). That would give you a crosscut capacity of about 12 inches or more at 90 degrees. A lot more accurate and safer IMO than the old radials.

Unisaw is the Delta cabinet table saw. It is a dream of mine too some day. Miles of cast iron table, 5 hp 220 V motor, enclosed cabinet for good dust collection. (Are you listening Santa?)

david

[This message has been edited by BerkeyDavid (edited November 16, 2004).]


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## Jerry C (Feb 7, 2004)

After a table saw (mines a 10 inch Craftsman which I really like), I whished I had bought a joiner next (have a 6 inch Craftsman now). If you can get a straight edge on the board before you rip it everything fits together better. If you are building bee boxes a good chop saw with a homemade table will let you set up a length stop and you can cut identical length boards all day. I have a CH brad nailer that I bought for cabinet work that works really well for assembling frames ($40).


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## Guest (Nov 16, 2004)

The main tools I use are 2 table saws (one small and one big). One is set up with my dado blade to cut the rabbet joints. The other is set up to cut the boards down to correct width. I can't tell you how nice it is to have two saws to avoid setup up changes. That way everything is exactly identical. Not to mention the time it saves.

I use a 19.2v Craftsman drill and hand clamps for pre-drilling and screwing boxes together. I use a circular saw with guide for cutting boards to length.

Dan


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

The four power tools I use the most:

o Table saw (I bought a small cheap one but wish it would take a large dado blade, it will only do a 1/2" dado)

o Skil HD5510 5-1/2" Circular Saw
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000223FJ/002-2369349-0084051?v=glance I also have a 7 1/2" worm driven skil, but seldom use it now that I have the 5 1/2" one.

o 3/8" drill

o 1/4 crown stapler with compressor. I have from 5/8" to 1 1/2" long staples. The 5/8" are nice for putting on hardware cloth or screens. The 3/4" are nice for nailing on 1/4" ply. The 1" are nice for frames. The 1 1/4" are nice when you don't want the staple to stick through when nailing two 3/4" boards and the 1 1/2" are nice for nailing 3/4" boards where you don't have to worry about it sticking through (like corners on a hive body).


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

very helpful stuff above thank you....

hmmmm seems you can outfit the whole shop with grizzly (table saw, planer, jointer and a band saw for kicks) for about $1500 which is very attractive and looking on the web lots of people are happy with this line of products.

-vs-

$1200 for a most contractor grade table saws.


what is the attraction of a left tilt table saw? is this that the blade can go either right or left?


------------------
NH Beekeeper

** Have you seen BeeBlogs.com ?

[This message has been edited by nhbeekeeper (edited November 16, 2004).]


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Left tilt is probably safer since the blade angles away from the fence. But if you are trying to cut triangular top bars, for example (don't bother they don't work any better i tried it) you are better off using a right tilt with a sacrifical fence (clamp a board to your fence so you don't cut the metal fence). Otherwise you are left with no way to use the fence. Hard to describe but bottom line is you can never cut an acute angle if you are ripping with the fence on a lleft tilt. There are advocates for both. My opinion is go for the standard right tilt and just do a good job squaring up your blade with your fence and be careful.
david


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## JohnBeeMan (Feb 24, 2004)

A Power Miter saw (compound slider would be top-of-line) is better alternative (IMO) than radial arm saw.

If you are going to be obtaining cheap lumber or slab wood from a saw mill you will be needing a thickness planer.

Woodworking is a bigger money pit than beekeeping, but both are great.









There is always the option of traditional woodworking. Then all you should need would be a couple of hand saws (1 crosscut, 1 rip), a few Standley hand planes, an old wooden dado plane and a hammer. Another fun hobby.


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## magnet-man (Jul 10, 2004)

Those tools in the right hands can do a lot very quickly, but there are not many right hands left.


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

BerkeyDavid i am really leaning towards some grizzly products.

do you know if they ever have sales? or specials? 

do you know if stores carry their products or are they only available direct?


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

ok i have $1500 to spend and have decided on Grizzly: a table saw, drill press and ONE other piece for now either the planner or a jointer.

1) so go with the planner or a jointer for now?

thanks for all the advice with putting as much as i can into a table saw the contractor grizzly cost $450 vs the heavy duty cabinet base saw cost $850.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/items-list.cfm?key=530010&sort=price 

contractor model: G0444Z
heavy duty model: G1023S

2) the heavy duty has a larger motor but will i see an "overall" difference for double the price? if so, how? obviously one is more portable then the other. 

i am torn because if i go with the contractor model i could then get a band saw now too. hmmmm

yes this is overkill for beehive building but i do plan on doing more in this shop then just building hives such as finish my 2nd floor in my home and building a new honey house in the near future









thanks

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NH Beekeeper

** Have you seen BeeBlogs.com ?


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## magnet-man (Jul 10, 2004)

If you are going to work with a lot of hardwoods, then the extra horsepower is really needed. It takes a long time to put a daddo in an oak board with a 2 hp motor.

As for a planner or a jointer which one to get first, it depends if you plan on making your own lumber. If you are, then you need both. If you are going to re-saw finished lumber then get the plainer. The plainer and the jointer are really two tools that are designed to work together. You can make a basic jointer with a router.

Now if you plan on making your own hives I might be tempted to get the G0513 band saw. It has a 12 cutting depth which means you can take 12 by 2 boards that sell for less here than the 1 by 12, at least in Tulsa, and re-saw them down the middle. You would not need to plane them if you put the cut side facing in. 

Not to turn you off to Grizzly but you really do need to read some of the woodworking forums. Grizzly has some good tools but they also have some real dogs and these forums are a good place to get that information. Like the Grizzly G1079 16" Drum Sander has a lot of bad comments about it. If you get a chance go to their Muncy, PA show room. If you are going to spend that type of money it is worth the trip. I went to the Springfield, MO showroom twice once during their annual spring-cleaning sale. That is when they sell a lot of returned and reconditioned equipment.


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Hey NH

I agree, some of the Grizzly stuff is better than others. The table saw is one of the good ones. It got a good rating in my woodworking mags as a best buy. Mag man is right you will need 2 hp minimum for hardwoods.

they don't have too many sales. also agree you need to check out the woodworking sites / mags.

Best grizzly stuff is the heavy cast iron. If you want real low tolerances they start to fade.

I definitly think you must have a jointer. Gives you a place to start, so your rip is accurate. Of course depends on where you get your wood and how much you use your stuff. You can pay to have all your stuff jointed one edge "SAS" and thickness planed for quite a while before you save up the cost!

david


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

NH just looked in my 04 Grizzly catalogue. They have the GO444 with 1 1/2 hp motor for 435. You can get the same saw with a 2 hp motor for 525. G0444Z For the extra money you get cast iron wings instead of the stamped steel wings, this is definitley worth it IMO. 

so I would go with the 2 hp contractor saw with the cast iron wings. Shipping is the same ($75) for both.

good luck

david

[This message has been edited by BerkeyDavid (edited November 20, 2004).]


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## magnet-man (Jul 10, 2004)

I really think you need more than 2 hp if you are going to do hardwood. 

A jointer has really two jobs. One is to make a smooth surface on a cut made on a table saw. The other is when you make your own lumber and there it is used to plane one side flat and smooth. The board is then run through the planner to smooth the other side and get it down to the desire thickness. If you take a board that is slightly cupped and run only through a planner, the planner will flatten it and the cup will spring back once it gets through.

If you are never going to need to plane a board to a certain thickness then you dont need the planer. If you are going to make furniture, then the jointer is a must have.

The number one thing you really need for a woodworking shop is lots and lots of room! And money too! The base tool is only the beginning!


[This message has been edited by magnet-man (edited November 20, 2004).]


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Hi Guys

I've been working in my shop today building a small TV stand. After reading the posts I thought I must have a 3 hp motor (can't remember that stuff) I was surprised to find out I only have a 1 1/2 hp motor on my table saw. I upgraded years ago from a 1 hp. I work a lot in ash and cherry, sometimes maple and oak. I use good blades, thin kerf rip blades, keep them sharp and keep my fence parallel to the blade. I find it is enough power for me. 

If I had to make a choice between more power and a jointer I would take the jointer. In fact, until I had a planer, band saw jig saw and a couple routers and was pretty well set up, for what I do (furniture and odds and ends) it has served me well. 

If I was ripping 3 inch hard maple all day, though, I would defintely want more.

But I found a big trailer load of cherry a few years ago so until I get through that I am building mostly in cherry (aka amish mahogany), which is one of the softer hardwoods.

for what its worth!

cheers!

david


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

is rought cut lumber that much of a difference in price?

there is a delta 13" planer on amazon for around $300

room isnt an issue for a shop in my basement all open space becasue of a nice steel i-beam i used when i built my place


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## magnet-man (Jul 10, 2004)

The 2 by 12 lumber is construction lumber used for floor joist and such and mostly ponderosa pine here in Tulsa. You will have to pick through the stack to get the best boards for re-sawing but a vast majority of the boards are good. You cant have many knots in a board that is supposed to span 20 feet with out support. The 1 by 12 is spruce is planned with a much finer finish. I would prefer to use ponderosa pine instead of spruce to be honest.


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

NH
get the planer! You will save thousands and thousands of dollars 

I love to plane wood!

Thought of one more thing. Be sure your electrical system can handle your new tools or be prepared to rewire. When I was working out of my garage (had everything on wheels) I had a heck of a mess trying to run my table saw and vacuum at the same time. I was always tripping stuff, especially on start up.

Now I have a big shop all wired for 220 and switched all my motors I could over to 220.

But the 110 really pulls the amps.
gotta go the shop is calling....
david


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

thanks guys for the advice things are really starting to pan out.

i found this board which is awesome in woodworking like this board is in beekeeping
http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php 

after the past week of digging into things i am very close to placing an order with these guys who are 5 hours away. 
http://www.wilkemachinery.com/OnlineSpecials.tpl?CurrentPage=2 

i am going to start will the 8" jointer, 10" contractor saw and am toying with the idea of getting the 15" planer. 

more and more i am hearing that planning wood saves you a bundle which is starting to make the 15" planer above look more and more attractive. i was also looking at the delta 13" which is about 1/2 the cost.

hmmmmm




------------------
NH Beekeeper

** Have you seen BeeBlogs.com ?


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Nice site there. Are you going with the Bridgewood saw? it was ranked favorably with the grizzly. I think the wings are stamped though. If you can afford it go with the 15 inch planer! If you ever lay up panels that extra few inches is valuable.


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

berkey yes i am going with the bridgewood. i really like the grizzly but i really like what i am seeing with the bridgewood products and i have been talking with a pro woodworker who has both brands and he is sold on bridgewood. that was icing on the cake.

i was debating on a cabinet vs contractor but their contractor grade is left tilt, 52" cast iron, 1.5hp with 2 dust shoots for $620.
the extra i save on goes towards getting their 15" planer









now all i need is a trailer full of cherry












------------------
NH Beekeeper

** Have you seen BeeBlogs.com ?


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## magnet-man (Jul 10, 2004)

Hitachi used to sell a combination 12 1/8 planer, and 6 5/8 joiner. It was a 3 hp unit with the joiner mounted on the side of the planer. It looked to be a pretty good machine.


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

NH
I think you will be happy with your choice. Don't skimp on the blades, maybe you can get them to throw a good carbide thin kerf rip in.
Jealously, 
david


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## nhbeekeeper (Oct 1, 2004)

well it all started out with the intentions of getting some tools to build beehives. the idea of building some hardwood furniture entered into the picture and my $1500 budget just about trippled







haha

Table Saw - not sure if anybody is looking for a good saw but Rockler.com's has an in-store special on a 10" delta "industrial" cabinet saw for $899 with a free $50 gift certificate. this is a steal! the industrial saw version is the same as the "unisaw" but it is produced overseas. 

i got a bunch of Jet stuff also (DC, BS, AC) with rebates and gift certificate combos so now i am pretty much set outside of an order i still need to place for 2 Yorkcraft tools from Wilke.

thanks for all the advice above you people are great.



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NH Beekeeper

** Have you seen BeeBlogs.com ?


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