# Horizontal Longstroth Beehive



## AdamMaskew (Jun 18, 2017)

Nice build. I’ve made a couple of long Lang’s now, too. Also had some flow frames and incorporated them into the end of my latest long hive. Hope to see them work soon, as our summer is just starting.

















Installing bees a few weeks ago with my daughter


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Thanks. I would be interested in hearing from you how your flow frames do. I should be getting my bees late April next year.


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

As I'm finishing building the hive, I'll add the pictures to the first post. I added picture #4 today. I've started working on adding the bottom. Going to have trays under a screen for varroa mites observation. Going to add a shelf also.


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## 2RiverFarmer (Sep 4, 2018)

I am the same mind as you Fiero Mike. I built 2 long Langstroth hives last winter, and have been very pleased with the set up for a back yard beekeeper. Some pics of my longhive.






























As you can see I made the roof high enough to put supers under the roof. I also have entrances on each did. With a vertical queen excluder I can run these as two queen hives.


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## Tim KS (May 9, 2014)

I've been thinking about building a long-lang ever since I've tried my first top bar hive. The top bar needs constant attention to keep comb straight & in the right places. The first 8 or 10 combs are fine, but they begin to degrade the further into the box they go. So I think lang frames would help the bees to be less apt to design their own comb.

However, what struck me first about your hive is the small wheels.......I'd prefer larger wheels that would handle grass & rough surfaces better.....something like 8-10" in diameter. (just a suggestion).


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## blugarden (Sep 11, 2018)

Impressive build, Mike. This is a nice reference for those who are just starting in beekeeping.


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## Claytone (Jul 8, 2018)

Well...I just built my prototype horizontal hive, but it a layens frame though...I cannot seem to post pictures. :scratch:


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

2RiverFarmer said:


> I am the same mind as you Fiero Mike. I built 2 long Langstroth hives last winter, and have been very pleased with the set up for a back yard beekeeper. Some pics of my longhive.
> 
> View attachment 43467
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> ...


Wow, I really like how your hives look. Gives me some ideas.


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Tim KS said:


> I've been thinking about building a long-lang ever since I've tried my first top bar hive. The top bar needs constant attention to keep comb straight & in the right places. The first 8 or 10 combs are fine, but they begin to degrade the further into the box they go. So I think lang frames would help the bees to be less apt to design their own comb.
> 
> However, what struck me first about your hive is the small wheels.......I'd prefer larger wheels that would handle grass & rough surfaces better.....something like 8-10" in diameter. (just a suggestion).


I think you might be right about needing bigger wheels. I'll have to do some searching for some.


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

blugarden said:


> Impressive build, Mike. This is a nice reference for those who are just starting in beekeeping.


Thanks, and it is fun to do.


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Claytone said:


> Well...I just built my prototype horizontal hive, but it a layens frame though...I cannot seem to post pictures. :scratch:


I'm not to good on explaining how to post pictures. I've not heard of layen frames. If you get it figured out, I'd be interested in seeing what you've done.


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## 2RiverFarmer (Sep 4, 2018)

Some upgrades to my inner covers. I found that a 3 inch hole fits a narrow mouth mason jar, and a 3.5 inch hole fits a wide mouth mason jar. By using two 1by6s and having the bottom with a 3 inch hole and the top board with a 3.5 inch hole you can make inner covers that accept both sizes of mason jars. They can also be used to make mason jar suppers or a hive in a jar.


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

2RiverFarmer said:


> Some upgrades to my inner covers. I found that a 3 inch hole fits a narrow mouth mason jar, and a 3.5 inch hole fits a wide mouth mason jar. By using two 1by6s and having the bottom with a 3 inch hole and the top board with a 3.5 inch hole you can make inner covers that accept both sizes of mason jars. They can also be used to make mason jar suppers or a hive in a jar.
> View attachment 43527
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> View attachment 43529


Thanks. I've thought about mason jars to let the bees put honey into. Do you have any more pictures of your hive that you might share?


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## 2RiverFarmer (Sep 4, 2018)

This is a picture before I put on the roof. The hive body has a cut grid pattern so the bees can place propolis on all sides. Research out of Minnesota shows that a propolis envelope has many benefits to the bees. The main body was made with 2by12s. I then added a second 2by frame to but foam insulation. Over that is a 1by4 board and batten siding. So my long hives are 3.75 inch thick walls with foam insulation. 

I also made the under roof spacing just enough to fit a deep. In the picture is one of my 5 frame nucs. I did this for easy installing of nucs. Or I can put supers on this hive. Each hive has an periscoping entrance on each end. Look up a YouTube video from Phil Chandelier, he has one about the periscope entrances. These periscope entrances have greatly reduced wasp and bumblebee from getting into the hive. They also limit mice from getting into the hive. 

The bottom is #8 hardware cloth. The back of the hive has a door to the screened bottom.


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Thanks. I'll search YouTube for the video. I've been thinking about my entrance and what to do for unwanted guests. I'm also pondering the roof/2nd level for flow hives, mason jars, medium supers/feeder combo, and/or possibly a spot for a NUC for a future 2nd hive.


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Went with a periscope entrance on an end after watching Phil Chandelier video. Still need to add handles to the same end to lift up and make it easier when moving. I was going to add picture to first post but have learned that after so many days that you can't do so. Here is a picture of the periscope entrance.


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## Claytone (Jul 8, 2018)

I hope these pictures uploaded...My Layens frames are a little deeper than a Langstroth frame: 14.5 by 16 inches deep...

I have 14 frames per side with a division board between them in case I need to combine 2 swarms/weak hive with a strong hive...

A screened bottom board for SHB or Varroa with either a sticky board or Freeman style "swimming pool" LOL...

1.5 inch thick steel insulated panels, (garage door panels), help keep the hive lighter, but I hope to never have to move it!!!

Lots of fun to build this prototype hive!!!


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## Claytone (Jul 8, 2018)

Awesome build!!! I really like your gable roofs...I might try to build them on my next hive!!! I am South of the Mason/Dixon line, so a little worried about tornados though...sigh...;-)


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Claytone said:


> View attachment 43721
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Interesting, garage door should definately make it lighter. After looking at yours, it crossed my mind for just one second to considered redoing mine, but maybe another time. You'll have to let us know how the bees like it. However, I still need a roof and a garage door could be an option.


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Started painting the hive olive green. Thinking of painting the legs a dark red.









Now to think about building/designing a modular roof so that I can add flow hive frames, Mason jars, and possibly some medium supers. I need to search for some ideas. After reading on the forum, I'm considering adding these extras the second year of the hive, but need to build ahead of adding the bees.


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## Claytone (Jul 8, 2018)

Perhaps put a Queen excluder above for honey stores? I think a telescoping lid would work well for the top, since the bottom will be the brood area.I went with internal frame feeders, instead of mason jars for the feeders, because my aging back can't lift heavy loads anymore...lol...I am thinking this hive will be a 2 story?


Fiero Mike said:


> Started painting the hive olive green. Thinking of painting the legs a dark red.
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> View attachment 43753
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> ...


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Claytone said:


> Perhaps put a Queen excluder above for honey stores? I think a telescoping lid would work well for the top, since the bottom will be the brood area.I went with internal frame feeders, instead of mason jars for the feeders, because my aging back can't lift heavy loads anymore...lol...I am thinking this hive will be a 2 story?


We are thinking alike with a Queen excluder for honey stores. I do have one of those black plastic internal feeder. I was thinking of 2 to 4 mason jars for a few honey stores for family that likes the wax in their honey. Yes on being 2 stories, but maybe not the first year. I've been wondering with the first year just being 1 story for the bees with maybe a vertical Queen exluder for 2 or 3 frames at the end for honey stores. And, then the 2nd year of going to 2 stories with trying the flow hive frames, and 10 medium supers possibly for honey stores if the bees don't like the flow hive frames.


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## AdamMaskew (Jun 18, 2017)

I really like the rapid feeders if you have space above. Doesn’t take frame space, has a higher volume than masons and can be checked refilled with out disturbing bees and can also feed pollen sub


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## Vancouver (Mar 4, 2017)

From what I've seen, most long langs have solid plywood bottoms regardless of screens or not. I am putting in a #8 screen and a tray to monitor mite droppings. However, like a typical lang hive, it doesn't have an additional plywood bottom. I see that some designs have trays/corrugated board inserts but they still seem to have plywood bottoms as well. Why do the long langs need a plywood bottom? Is it for additional insulation since it spans 48 3/4 " instead of 16 1/4"?


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## Murdock (Jun 16, 2013)

I built 2 of these hybrid top bar hives. I use Lang frames and top bars with sides and bottom boards. I put my main entrance in the end. I also drilled 2 entrance holes in the other end the same size as wine corks. this end can be used as a nuc while you are building a hive in the main end. I use oil pans under my SBB and they do a good job on shb plus close up the bottom if there is too much ventilation. You might want to google THE LAYENS HIVE. Old info but his principles of bar/frame manipulation are right on. During a flow you will be needing to check them weekly so you don't get honey bound.


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## Son Rise Apiaries (Aug 3, 2019)

A good tip as well Fiero for langstroth instead of buying 2x12 boards, buy 2x10 boards 16ft. You can ussually get a 16 foot for 13-14 dollars. Instead of paying 25-26 for a 2x12 12 footer. You do your normal cuts, but make all the boards 8 3/4, and your excess 4 foot of 2x10 cut 2 inch strips and screw them into the top of the 8 3/4 pieces you got making a 10 3/4 total height. Saves a ton of money on wood. Shows ours a bit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLp4eZDElNE


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Ok, this thread may be old, but life has happened and I hadn't ever completed my beehive. Hopefully, I will get to start completing the hive starting next month when my son brings it to me.


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## Gray Goose (Sep 4, 2018)

Fiero Mike said:


> Ok, this thread may be old, but life has happened and I hadn't ever completed my beehive. Hopefully, I will get to start completing the hive starting next month when my son brings it to me.


Mike
glad to see you are now able to move forward.
welcome back.

GG


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## Fiero Mike (Aug 27, 2016)

Thanks


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