# Bottom Boards - 3/4" vs. 3/8" entrance



## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

The title says it all. What do you use? Why? Pro's/con's? Thanks!


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

3/8". It works. Pro: keeps rodents out. Con: there is none.


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## tefer2 (Sep 13, 2009)

3/4 here. I use a reducer in winter to limit the air coming in. I like to have a space under the frames where the dead bees collect in winter. I've had them pile up and block the entrance on the 3/8 side.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

I built my last nucs with 3/8" openings.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

Should use the 3/4 side of the bottom board in winter and invert the entrance reducer. The 3/8 high opening on the reducer should be on the top side. This leaves a 3/8 high area covering the bottom board for dead bees before dead bees start to block the bottom entrance.

And with the 3/8 high opening mice can not get in.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

I have two nucs setting side by side. one with 3/4 and the other 3/8. So far no observable difference other than how the bees tend to exit the hive. in the taller hive they tend to exit buy hanging upside down at the tip of the entrance and enter by walking in on the bottom board. on the lower entrance they all walk in and out for the most part. IN effect it is like the taller entrance provides a separate in and out door. I don't know that this makes any difference to the bees.


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## gone2seed (Sep 18, 2011)

3/8ths with screened bottom boards.I even narrow the 3/8ths opening in winter and other times of scarcity.Small blocks of wood take care of that.


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## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

Thanks for the replies so far, everyone. Do all commercial/migratory type bottom boards only have the 3/8" entance. That's what we run in our commercial op, but my personal hives are on the 3/4'' side right now. It would be one less peice of equipment that you have per hive since you wouldn't need a reducer. I have seen some migratory pallets with a 3/4" rim. Of those of you that have a palletized operation, what do you use?


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

My bottomboards are a commercial type I was taught to make before bees were all put on pallets. The entrances are 5/16" and nailed to the bottom of the brood chamber. It makes so many things easier and they are cheap and easy to make.


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## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

http://beekeeping.glorybee.com/shop/Assembled-Migratory-Top.html
We use this style, but we bought all ours used. They also have a 2" cleat on the underside of the ends instead of just a 1" cleat. P.S. GloryBee has the photos for their bottoms and tops accidentally switched. This link to the page is for the cover, but it has the pic of the migratory bottom.  Might have to let them know about that.


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

I can see how a 3/8" opening could get blocked. Especially if it was reduced on the ends with blocks of wood for winter.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

I just have a hard time believing that a bunch of dead bees on the bottom board could keep live bees inside from exiting the hive. They chew through Styrofoam, wood, paper, etc., why would they not be able to move some dead bees?


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## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

Good feasible observation, Barry. I think you're right.


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## gone2seed (Sep 18, 2011)

Mr.Beeman said:


> I can see how a 3/8" opening could get blocked. Especially if it was reduced on the ends with blocks of wood for winter.


Yeah,it's all that snow we get.


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## Riskybizz (Mar 12, 2010)

And in addition you should also be leaving them a means of egress and return at the top of the hive in winter locations. Ventilation port plus entrance. So dead bees piled up at the bottom shouldn't be a concern.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

I do, and then the bees proceed to propolize it closed, so I don't worry about it. Never lost a hive of bees because they couldn't get out of the bottom entrance.


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## jmgi (Jan 15, 2009)

I build all my own bottoms but I make the entrance 1/2" high as a compromise. John


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

Ok...not blocked for eternity. lol


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

All mine are 3/8" and another beekeeper I work with who uses pallets for bottom boards are 3/8" also. We both nail a 1" tall entrance reducer in front of the entrance with a 3/8" tall slot in it for further mouse protection. A few of my entrance reducers have already been ravaged but the mice have to get through 3/4" of reducer and 3/4" of pine to get to the hive. Still, when you see mouse damage you'll be happy you did something to prevent them from getting into your hives, namely an entrance small enough to prevent mouse intrusion. Also I have seen my entrances get plugged with dead bees but it seems that when and if the bees need a bigger entrance those dead bees get tossed out to accommodate the greater flow of traffic.


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## doc25 (Mar 9, 2007)

Maybe they leave the dead bees there when it's cold as weatherstripping.


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## AmericasBeekeeper (Jan 24, 2010)

3/8 entrance for the last 6 years, year-round, reduced down to 2 inch last two years with fewer SHB


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## Clayton Huestis (Jan 6, 2013)

I must be the odd one as I use 3/4 all year round. 3/8 doesnt keep out mice for sure any self respecting mouse can chew there way in (metal mouse guards is the only way to go). I just feel the 3/4 entrance allow the hive to breathe a lil better. It might even allow for a little more traffic to come and go. I bet it doen't really matter in the end long as you use what you like.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

I have a 3/4 in rim around my pallet bottom boards. It is because that was the size of the 1*4 I ripped down to make the rims. 
I think the 3/4 is a bit more drafty that the smaller rimmed bottom boards, but an entrance reducer usually goes into place anyway


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

The original reverseable boards were intended to be use 3/8" side up in the summer, 3/4" side up in winter to allow for dead bees collecting in the hive on the bottom board as the dead ones fall out of the cluster in cold weather. A pile of wet, rotting dead bees could be a real problem in the spring, and it could take quite a bit of work to clear them away from a fairly small entrance. It's one thing to drag something out a hole, it's quite another to drag dead bees INTO the hive to clear the entrance. 

The bees probably don't care how big the space under the frames is. 

Peter


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

We use a patented "level-drain" bottom board, that is reversible, and always has a 3/4" opening. Entrance blocks are used in the spring, early summer, and early fall to restrict the size of the opening. In Fall, mouse guards are applied.

Crazy Roland


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## flyingbrass (Jul 2, 2011)

Barry said:


> I just have a hard time believing that a bunch of dead bees on the bottom board could keep live bees inside from exiting the hive. They chew through Styrofoam, wood, paper, etc., why would they not be able to move some dead bees?


this killed my observation hive for the last two years, at least I think it was this


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## tefer2 (Sep 13, 2009)

Roland, whats the level drain bottom board all about? Never heard of it.


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## Wisnewbee (Apr 8, 2011)

Sorry to be different, my 4 way pallets have a 1/2" cleat that the bottom box rests on.

Wisnewbee
Honey Luv Farm


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

I still use bottom boards, but completely eliminated them as entrances, when I discovered the true extent that those bottom entrances exposed the bees to being consumed, en mass, by predators.


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## Sticky Bear (Mar 15, 2012)

Well I'm happy with the 3/4" opening in the bottom but I use a top entrance as well. As you can see by the pic I have mouse guards in place year round, they were made from corner bead I picked up at Home Depot. I'm trying to not have to put down so many skunks and ***** this year. All hives are 24" off ground now.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I build all of mine screened and 3/4".


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