# Titebond 2 or 3



## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

Amazon has it for $32 a gallon with free standard shipping - although that might just be with prime (which is a pretty decent deal) Other sizes available as well.


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

I checked out the web site of your local Issaquah,WA, Lowe's store, and that site indicates Titebond III is available, there.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

I would do the three. It seam to me I remember that it has a use by date. So I would try not to buy a five unless you really go through it. At the same time I have had some for more than two years. An I bought it as a close out. So it was old then. 
David


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## labradorfarms (Dec 11, 2013)

I may be wrong but the 3 is not waterproof......Besides that 2 is more than good enough. If you paint your hive 2 or 3 will make no difference. All the glue does is hold the wood together along with the nails.


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

Link to specs for Titebond III. According to the manufacturer's web site, it is, indeed, waterproof. Titebond II is advertised to be merely water resistant.

I once lived and kept bees in the San Juan Islands, Washington, but now I do both in Tucson, Arizona. If I were still in the wetter climate of the San Juan's, I'd certainly only use the Titebond III. Here, in Tucson it is much dryer, yet I still use Titebond III, since the difference in price, isn't worth the difference.


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

Titebond III is rated for continuous immersion in water. Probably a good choice for a temperate rain forest (assuming you live in the west side of the Rockies). 

I use III, as it is the same price as II and will, I think, give better service in the long run.

Peter


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Its hard to believe that McLendon Hardware  won't sell you Titebond III if you want it.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

Joseph Clemens said:


> I checked out the web site of your local Issaquah,WA, Lowe's store, and that site indicates Titebond III is available, there.


They lie on the website. Only some of the Lowes carry it, I know where to get it 45 minutes away. Just found out I can get it in 5 gallons so I contacted them to see if I can get it locally it should be cheaper.

II is less then III by a few bucks by the gallon. HD and Lowes used to sell it for like 25 bucks or so. Shipping online is the issue.


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## Robinhood & 1Maineguide (Dec 9, 2013)

My son works at a Lowes and his Lowes didnt have it in stock either BUT every Lowes can get it. It only took them a week to get it in stock and it did not cost anything extra.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

I asked last night and Redmond could not get it. But, Renton had 8.


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## rweakley (Jul 2, 2004)

I wish people would actually read the info in titebond's website. BOTH are waterproof, the only difference is that III can survive for some time while being BOILED. I don't boil my hives so I use II.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

rweakley said:


> I wish people would actually read the info in titebond's website. BOTH are waterproof, the only difference is that III can survive for some time while being BOILED. I don't boil my hives so I use II.


Now that was good info. Thanks. I am kind of on the fence between II or III. That might be why some stores have dropped III.


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

rweakley said:


> I wish people would actually read the info in titebond's website. BOTH are waterproof, the only difference is that III can survive for some time while being BOILED. I don't boil my hives so I use II.


I agree about reading the labels. So read a little further and you will find that Titebond III mcan be used at lower temperatures than II.
You can use all the glue that you want but if it crazzes or chalks due to low temperature it is a total waste of money.
Read THE ENTIRE LABEL!!!


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

Here's a link to another thread, from a few years ago, same subject.


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

I like the longer set time too. I have a gallon and a half that's going to get used up in a hurry in a month or so. They had a sale on III at Lowes a while back for $29 a gallon so I bought two


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## honeyman46408 (Feb 14, 2003)

I just bought a gal TB III @ Menards for 20 bux but not all their stores carry it by the gal ad the one I shop at most of the time has it for 9 bux a qt


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

honeyman46408 said:


> I just bought a gal TB III @ Menards for 20 bux


Titebond III at my local Lowe's is $27.95. 

I use it for lower temperature and longer set time. Waterproof is just an added bonus.

cchoganjr


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## ARGluck (Mar 10, 2013)

As has been said. II is water resistant, III is water proof. If you're using nails or screws the type isn't very important. If you're painting the hive, it becomes even less important as it will essentially be sealed.

Glue has a shelf life and even a lifespan once applied. It wears down either way which is why we simply don't just butt joint glue things, the glue degrades.


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## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

I like TB 2. I get it for $18 a gallon at Menards here.


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## toekneepea (Jul 7, 2010)

HarryVanderpool said:


> I agree about reading the labels. So read a little further and you will find that Titebond III mcan be used at lower temperatures than II.
> You can use all the glue that you want but if it crazzes or chalks due to low temperature it is a total waste of money.
> Read THE ENTIRE LABEL!!!


II can be applied at a lower temperature, and dries faster - and since it's cold when I'm usually assembling the boxes it just made sense for me to use II. Read the labels and decide what's best for you.

Tony P.


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

*Re: Titebond II or III*

Uh, Tony. You kinda got the specs for Titebond II and Titebone III, switched around.

*Titebond II ->* "Application Temperature: *Above 55°F*

Open assembly time 5 minutes (70°F./50%RH)

Total assembly time 10-15 minutes (70°F./50%RH)

Minimum required spread Approximately 6 mils or 250 square feet per gallon

Required clamping pressure Enough to bring joints tightly together (generally, 100-150 psi for softwoods, 125-175 psi for medium woods and 175-250 psi for hardwoods)

Method of Application Plastic bottles for fine applications; glue may also be spread with a roller spreader or brush.

Cleanup Damp cloth while glue is wet. Scrape off and sand dried excess."

*Titebond III ->* "Application Temperature
*Above 47°F*

Open assembly time
10 minutes (70°F./50%RH)

Total assembly time
20-25minutes (70°F./50%RH)

Minimum required spread
Approximately 6 mils or 250 square feet per gallon

Required clamping pressure
Enough to bring joints tightly together (generally, 100-150 psi for softwoods, 125-175 psi for medium woods and 175-250 psi for hardwoods)

Method of Application
Plastic bottles for fine applications; glue may also be spread with a roller spreader or brush.

Cleanup
Damp cloth while glue is wet. Scrape off and sand dried excess."


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## toekneepea (Jul 7, 2010)

Joseph Clemens said:


> Uh, Tony. You kinda got the specs for Titebond II and Titebone III, switched around.


Whoops, my mistake. I don't know what I was thinking, I reversed them somehow. I use III. Thanks Joseph for setting me right.

Tony P.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

They sell in 5 Gallons. I contacted titebond to see where I can get it from. Online 5 gal of II is 99 bucks and 1 gal is 30 so I see a savings buying it 5 gals at a time. I think I go through 3 gallons a year at least and I can put some in 1 gal and sell it to another beek to save him and make me a couple bucks if it works out. Otherwise 5 gal is almost as cheap as 3 from lowes.


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## SWM (Nov 17, 2009)

Are we maybe getting a little OCD on the titebond issue? I've been using titebond II for several years and it seems to be working just fine. But then I've also got a lot of supers and some hive bodies assembled 30 years ago with plain 'ole Elmer's wood glue and the joints are still solid. I've got a lot more to worry about than the glue holding my boxes together!


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## KPeacock (Jan 29, 2013)

TBII is a bit thicker and drips less when I'm assembling parts. If my hives are ever submerged, I think I'll have enough to worry about that my glue joints will be of little concern. Functionally, I see no difference in their bonding. I made a few joints with both and beat them apart with a hammer. In boh cases the glue was stronger than the pine the joints were made of. So, I have determined that either will be fine for my hives, which have situated above the water level for ease of inspection.


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## dixiebooks (Jun 21, 2010)

EastSideBuzz said:


> They lie on the website. Only some of the Lowes carry it, I know where to get it 45 minutes away. Just found out I can get it in 5 gallons so I contacted them to see if I can get it locally it should be cheaper.
> 
> II is less then III by a few bucks by the gallon. HD and Lowes used to sell it for like 25 bucks or so. Shipping online is the issue.


Tell the manager you want some and he will order it in for you. -js


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## TWall (May 19, 2010)

Duck decoy carvers have been using Titbond II for years without failure of glue joints. Including the occasional peppering by shot.

I have used Titebond II in my hives without glue joint failure so far.

Either is probably more than adequate.

Tom


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## bowhuntaz (Dec 30, 2013)

Any Lowe's can get you the Titebond you need within a few days. 
Most stores get trucks twice a week or more, and one email request to the distribution center gets it on the next truck to your store. 
If the distribution center is out of stock, then they can get it from another store. It just takes an extra day or two. 
IN all my years of woodworking, I've tried many different adhesives, but always came back to TB2. 
The only advantage I ever saw with TB3 was that it's food grade. Meaning, you can make cutting boards with it and not have to worry about ingesting it. 
Being that I never felt the need to eat a cutting board, or eat glue for that matter, I always used TB2. 
I even tried polyurethane glue (gorilla glue), and in some instances, it's really effective. Others, not so much. 
TB cleans up with a damp rag. GG needs a solvent, which was a pain in the buzzoo.
TB makes the wood swell. If you're gluing up panels, let htem dry a few days before planing them or sanding them to final dimension. You'll end up with stripes in the finish if you don't. 
In the end, it's what you prefer. 
Either one will get the job done for your needs, based on what's been posted here.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Both Titebond II and Titebond III are approved for indirect food contact such as cutting boards:



> All of our Titebond wood glues are safe to use and produce no harmful fumes. They meet the requirements of ASTM D4236 for safe use with arts and crafts. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards. We do recommend wearing gloves when working with the Titebond Polyurethane Glue because repeated use of the product with bare hands could lead to a sensitivity to those types of products.
> 
> http://www.titebond.com/frequently_asked_questions.aspx


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## Kamon A. Reynolds (Apr 15, 2012)

I have used titebond II for years got frames that are still as tough as they need to be. Good product.

Titebond III is over rated and over priced in most applications. But opinions are like noses...........


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## marshmasterpat (Jun 26, 2013)

KPeacock said:


> If my hives are ever submerged, I think I'll have enough to worry about that my glue joints will be of little concern.


Yea I would agree with that statement. But I did have a bee keeper here tell me what he did to hives in the surge zone of hurricanes. His bees would be lost but he would keep the supers and most the frames. Covers and top super frames would likely be gone as well. He just said he hoped that floating debris missed them if it occurred.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

People appear to be zeroing in on the waterproof, (Titebond III) versus water resistant, (Titebond II), but, that is just one consideration.

For those wanting the whole story, look again at:

Response # 12 rweakly and Titebond III being able to withstand boiling for a short period of time. I agree, few people boil their hives, but, I frequently boil frames to clean them. And, I glue the frames. I heat a half barrel of water with a turkey cooker, toss in 10 frames at a time, and then using a frame grip, remove the frames, very clean. Can clean about 200 to 300 frames before the water needs changing. Beats the devil out of scraping the frames.

Response # 14 HarryVanderpool about use at lower temperatures. For those assembling frames or boxes in a shop, that is not adequately heated overnight, the lower working, and setting temperature of Titebond III can be significant.

Response # 16 rwuster Titebond III has a longer work before set time. This can also be significant if you are running an assembly line operation.

Newbees wanting a good comparison between Titebond II and Titebond III, need to look at all the differences in the two products, not just waterproof / water resistant, and decide how it fits into their situation.

For me, the extra $3.00 per gallon for Titebond III, is worth it. But, use whatever works for you.

cchoganjr


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

tite bond II is a bit thicker it helps seal less than perfect joints.... tite bond III is thinner it squeezes out less so less mess and a bottle goes a little further. it really is nicer at lower temperatures.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Also worth mentioning if you are going to the store for glue do some reading on the date stamped on the bottles, it does have a limited shelf life. And excellent expired product is no longer an excellent product.
Wood magazine some time back was doing a side by side and Elmer’s (wood glue max) came up to the top here recently. I have tried their product in some exterior decks and liked it (not enough to switch).
I like the Titebond customer service. I had some joints fail on some cedar birdhouses and gave them a call. Very informative, very good to deal with. They actually convinced me to go with the II over the III, and they sent be a huge bottle of their polyurethane glue to try.


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## Moots (Nov 26, 2012)

I use Titebond III on my frames and boxes and have been extremely satisfied thus far. Technically, I might be fine with II, but I'm a bit of a fan of over engineering any problem. 

Short of wanting to save a little change or needing a faster set time, I'm not aware of any reasons why someone would choose to use II over III. Their website has a pretty good video describing the differences between the original, II and III....I think it's fairly clear that they consider it a good, better, best progression.

Another thing they mention on their website is that the expiration date is mostly to protect them from liability in cases where the glue is stored in less than optimum conditions. According to them, if stored in optimum conditions (e.g. a dry cool place) Titebond original, II and III will last up to 10 years. They also say you can probably prolong this shelf life even further by storing it in a refrigerator.

http://www.titebond.com/woodworking_glues.aspx


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Doing a side by side on the glues I have on my shelf (thanks Harry, never read that it should be used above 55) I noted that the storage temp should be below 75 for the III but it did not specify for the II (room temp). 
By the way I am cheap. I use the II by the gallon and III by the 16 oz. I do not have a basement or room in the refer for a glue bottle. I have never had a gallon of milk go bad but I still check the dates and grab the most current from the shelf. I have had glue go bad and stringy. I added 3% water and used it anyway (again, see cheap). My joinery and fasteners should hold most of my work just fine.


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