# Wax Moth Control?



## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

Starting from the bottom up, I would say it is not safe to assume that the moths are gone once the first frost hits. They need more exposure to the cold for them to be gone. I had a tough year this past fall and winter because it didn't get cold enough in my barn to kill them off and I lost some comb. Colder is better and the longer it's cold, them better. I use BT Aizawai and I can vouch for that. Not sure about the other and yes, I'd spray them on the infected frames and any unaffected brood comb that you have. That will slow and eventually stop the larvae. I typically spray my comb before storage. Last year, I brought in a couple of boxes from a dead out and didn't spray which is how my infestation started. You may consider spraying before storing in the basement. Outside, I'd let a strong hive take care of the moths. I've never had a moth problem in a strong hive. Once it gets weak, I'll combine the colony, bring the boxes and frames inside, spray and store. I'm not sure that it's necessary to worry about the ventilation so much. I use screened bottom boards so the moths can enter in a variety of locations.


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

Stack em outside after the first frost. A Vermont winter will get 'em all!


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

I wish I could say that wax moth larvae haven't been a problem for very strong hives. I've found wax moth larvae in nearly all hives, where a few of them adversely affect small areas of sealed brood, either trapping young bees in their cells, preventing them from emerging, with wax moth larvae webs spun around them. And even in some very strong hives, they've done much worse.

Other forms of Bt can be toxic to bees, especially honey bee brood, so be careful. 

Moths do not need to enter hives to lay their eggs where the larvae will cause problems. The larvae are very tiny, when young, and will go to where the food is, to eat.


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## jjapple (Sep 6, 2009)

Thanks to all of you for your input. Immensely valuable. Joseph, especially hearing yours really helps confirm what I was intuiting. The wax moth lays her eggs somewhere where the the LARVAE can get it. The moth itself does not have to get in the hive itself. My bees were controlling the wax moths except in the very top tiny spaces between the inner cover and the top bars. Even there only a few got in.
So I am looking for Bt Aizawai for the infected frames.
The only thing I am hearing different advice on is storage of unused frames. I understand that ventilation is important, but I am not sure why.
My thought is to use some screened covers top and bottom on stacks of hive bodies.
Also I know they do not like light, but does that mean I need to go put a trouble light at the top or bottom of the stack for a day? once a week once a month?
Any help appreciated.
JJAllen
Vermont


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

PDB (Para Moth) will kill anything but some people fear it. You can stack supers from the floor to ceiling and put a 7 ounce packet of PDB crystals on a paper plate on top of the top super with a cover and you will never have a wax moth problem. I put the bottom on a piece of foam and tape any apparent voids due to older equipment. 

In Vermont this works great for supers that arent on the hives in warmer weather. Once it gets below freezing you don't need to do anything.


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## jjapple (Sep 6, 2009)

Hi Keth,

What are your thoughts about Para Moth? From what I have read it is best to avoid using it if possible due to its toxicity.
I do not fear it, but anything this toxic I try to avoid. If I had a larger operation I would probably use it, but I only have 40+ hive bodies.
My plan is below on the next reply.



Keth Comollo said:


> PDB (Para Moth) will kill anything but some people fear it. You can stack supers from the floor to ceiling and put a 7 ounce packet of PDB crystals on a paper plate on top of the top super with a cover and you will never have a wax moth problem. I put the bottom on a piece of foam and tape any apparent voids due to older equipment.
> 
> In Vermont this works great for supers that arent on the hives in warmer weather. Once it gets below freezing you don't need to do anything.


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## jjapple (Sep 6, 2009)

My present plan is to move all my hive bodies to a screened porch where they can get light and ventilation but not robbers nor critters and hopefully the bears will not be drawn enough to go through the screen. If I end up having to use PDB then it will ventilate outside.
Once the cold nights set in I will move them downstairs.


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## KQ6AR (May 13, 2008)

Personally I wouldn't use paramoth its nasty, & not legal in California. Although I do use BT on my stored frames, then I store them in a dry place with the top, & bottom open.
So far the BT has worked well for us, minimal moth damage.


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## jjapple (Sep 6, 2009)

KQ6AR said:


> Personally I wouldn't use paramoth its nasty, & not legal in California. Although I do use BT on my stored frames, then I store them in a dry place with the top, & bottom open.
> So far the BT has worked well for us, minimal moth damage.


I live in Vermont. Do you have a good source for finding Bt Aizawai? All the other Bt's are not approved for hives because they are dangerous or potentially dangerous to bees.


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

I think you would do well if you searched for the combination of aizawai and sundance, on this forum.


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## KQ6AR (May 13, 2008)

As Joseph mentioned Sundance here on the forum buys it in bulk. Check the for sale area.


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## jjapple (Sep 6, 2009)

KQ6AR said:


> As Joseph mentioned Sundance here on the forum buys it in bulk. Check the for sale area.


I tried Sundances link and the link is inoperable.
Can anyone tell me how to reach Sundance?
Thank you


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

Simply click on his forum name >> Sundance <<, anywhere inside the forum and it will give you the option to "PM", private message him. He usually responds quite quickly.


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## user333 (Aug 14, 2012)

jjapple said:


> I live in Vermont. Do you have a good source for finding Bt Aizawai? All the other Bt's are not approved for hives because they are dangerous or potentially dangerous to bees.


Amazon have it, search for XanTari BT.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I only made the mistake of storing supers in the basement once. That was 12 years ago. The wax moths are still flying throughout my house and particularly in the basement.

Store them where they will freeze. Hard and often.


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## Slow Modem (Oct 6, 2011)

jjapple said:


> I tried Sundances link and the link is inoperable.
> Can anyone tell me how to reach Sundance?
> Thank you


Look here:

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?225796-Agree-WG-Bt-Aizawai-Powder/page5

go to the end and work backwards.


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## lakebilly (Aug 3, 2009)

BT is for brood frames only?

How/when is it applied?

Any suggestions for combs w/infestation....strip & startover?


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## KQ6AR (May 13, 2008)

#1 Bt is for honey and brood frames its approved under the naturally grown standard. Don't know if its approved for organic standards.
#2 We spray the frames when they are going to be stored off the hive, then store them indoors with the top & bottom open for ventilation.
#3 depends on how bad they are. Judgment call.


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## ycitybz (Jan 2, 2012)

If you have freezer space, freeze them for 36-40 hours the spores will then be dead. I then store them stacked on top of each other and then every 5th box I put a couple teaspoons of moth crystals (blue can from walmart) on a piece of wood or news paper. at the top I put on a telescoping lid and thats it. I have never had a wax moth doing this. If its going to be awhile I sit the super or brood box on its side so light shines thru it.
I've never brought them in the house so I cant tell you how they do in the basement..


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## DQPESTCONTROL (Jul 22, 2009)

To control wax moths in your honey bee hive supers, you can either exposé them to very cold temperatures or chemically treat them to kill the wax moths.
http://www.dqpestcontrol.com


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## Zeo (Sep 17, 2012)

Hello All ~ I returned home after my out-of-state work stint to find one hive/colony completely consumed with wax moth. The bees were gone, but moths, larvae, webbing, feces and destroyed comb were everywhere! Total hive destruction. So, what do I do at this point? I plan to pressure wash all boxes and frames, dry, freeze, then store til spring. Any suggestions?
My other hive, 10 feet away, is untouched. As a newbie to this hobby, I have never experienced this issue before. I need advice on safe guarding my remaining hive, treating this menace, and any thoughts that may help in the future. Thanks!


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## Hoover67 (Mar 27, 2008)

Zeo said:


> Hello All ~ I returned home after my out-of-state work stint to find one hive/colony completely consumed with wax moth. The bees were gone, but moths, larvae, webbing, feces and destroyed comb were everywhere! Total hive destruction. So, what do I do at this point? I plan to pressure wash all boxes and frames, dry, freeze, then store til spring. Any suggestions?
> My other hive, 10 feet away, is untouched. As a newbie to this hobby, I have never experienced this issue before. I need advice on safe guarding my remaining hive, treating this menace, and any thoughts that may help in the future. Thanks!


I am in the same boat! I look forward to hearing the response to this problem. My hive is a total loss also! I sure wish I did not have to learn everything the hard way!
inch:
Michele


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

Zeo and Hoover67, you do realize that you can read all the posts in this thread, from the beginning, right? And that there are many other threads that discuss this very same issue. Some are also mentioned earlier in this thread.

My favorite thread on this subject, is here.


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## brooksbeefarm (Apr 13, 2008)

Like Joseph said above.:thumbsup: The way i keep wax moth in check, is keep hives strong,don't give them more room(supers) than they can protect. When using BT make sure after you spray them, that they are completely dry(the comb) before you store them.If you want to see how fast wax moth can start to take over, let your honey supers (that you just robbed) set for three days before you extract them. Not a pretty sight.


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## Hoover67 (Mar 27, 2008)

Joseph Clemens said:


> Zeo and Hoover67, you do realize that you can read all the posts in this thread, from the beginning, right? And that there are many other threads that discuss this very same issue. Some are also mentioned earlier in this thread.
> 
> My favorite thread on this subject, is here.


I am sorry. Yes I have read the previous comments. My question is: What do I do to the frames and hive bodies that have already been infested? There is no wax now. Do I just scrape the frames and hives and then store them? Do I need the crystals now that there is no wax. Should I do anything like scrub them with something?

I picked up from reading the previous posts what to do to prevent future problems. 

Michele


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## brooksbeefarm (Apr 13, 2008)

Michele, if i may. I would check the frames for weakness ( they can sometimes ruin them). You can just scrape them and let the bees clean them up later. I like to scrape them the best i can and then mix a cap of bleach in a gal. of water, and put it in a spray bottle and spray the frames and inside the hive body. Then let them dry good before you store them.


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## Hoover67 (Mar 27, 2008)

brooksbeefarm said:


> Michele, if i may. I would check the frames for weakness ( they can sometimes ruin them). You can just scrape them and let the bees clean them up later. I like to scrape them the best i can and then mix a cap of bleach in a gal. of water, and put it in a spray bottle and spray the frames and inside the hive body. Then let them dry good before you store them.


Great! That is exactly what I needed to know!
Thanks!


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

The aftermath of destroyed combs, by wax moth larvae, can be managed in many different ways. The most common two ways, in my experience are:
1) Cut and scrape the beeswax from the frames, scrape off the mess from plastic foundation, insert new beeswax foundation (if you use it). Give back to the bees, as appropriate.
2) Give the wax moth spoiled combs/frames, back to strong colonies, especially during a strong flow, they can and do clean the mess and repair the combs.


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## bwdenen (Feb 3, 2012)

I got some Herbal Moth Repel packs from Mockingbird Meadows I'm going to try this year. Dawn says it's all nautral, no chemicals and will keep the moths out. I planning on treating some frames with BT and placing the stacks in the same area to see which works best. I like the herbal approach..if it works.

http://www.mockingbirdmeadows.com/product-category/sustainable-beekeeping-supplies/


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## Tom Davidson (Mar 20, 2012)

Keth Comollo said:


> Stack em outside after the first frost. A Vermont winter will get 'em all!


Nature's freezer definitely will work. Down my way I take all drawn frames and freeze them for a day or two before storing to kill off any pests that may be hiding, such as WM or SHB eggs.


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## ryanhalby (Aug 11, 2012)

How we started storing supers this year, chemical free.


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## Cordovan Italian Bee (Oct 27, 2009)

Hi,Does freezing the frames and putting them in plastic bags keep moths out or will they chew though plastic ?


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## metropest (Aug 21, 2019)

You can destroy wax moth larvae by placing the frames in the deep-freezer for 24 hours. If you don’t have a big freezer, you can freeze two or three frames at a time. After they’ve had the freeze treatment, put the frames back in the supers and store them in tightly sealed plastic garbage bags. The colder the storage area, the better. https://metropest.com/


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