# top hive entrance - opinions please



## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

The problem with a one by three is you'll have 3/4" space at the top plus the 1/4" that was already above the frames making 1" of space. The bees will burr it up. But as long as you keep them from geting too crowded it won't be too bad. Mine is just a 3/4" plywood board with a cedar shingle shim on each side which makes the space 3/8" at the entrance and nothing at the back. Which, added to the 1/4" already there makes it 1/4" at the very back and 5/8" at the very front. Since they seldom burr up near the entrance (because it blocks traffic I assume), and since the rest is pretty close to standard bee space, I get very little burr. Two shingle shims under the inner cover work fine too.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#topentrance
http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopentrance.htm


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

I use an inner cover, shimed one side. I use the upper enterence during the winter months when it is realy needed, and turn the inner cover around during the summer to avoid the bur comb. Still leaves the upper enterence for the upward draft. 
I dont know, works for me, but it requires another piece of equipment.


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

Are shingle shims simular to the shims I use when installing doors and windows?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>Are shingle shims simular to the shims I use when installing doors and windows?

Exactly the same.


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## power napper (Apr 2, 2005)

sneekybeez-This year we converted to all top entrances. We built ventilated tops with ten one inch holes screened with #8 hardware cloth on the sides and a two by four inch cutout screened on the 3/8 the plywood bottom that serves as an inner cover. Have not seen a beard on any hive this year so far. This winter we plan on filling the ventilated covers with wood shavings for insulation.


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## sneekybeez (May 21, 2006)

I'll let you guys know what results - good or bad - come from this... Thanks for you responses!


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## sneekybeez (May 21, 2006)

Just revised and completed my top hive entrance... Thanks for the words of wisdom! I am going to post some pictures of the contraption for your review. I made some modifications based on the responses to the original post. The top hive entrance also has ventilation ports and the entrance has been reduced to just over 3/8 inches with screen wire. Take a look and tell me what you think... Also I would like your opinions as to whether or not to leave the top board in or remove it and just place the new screened entrance??? Let me know if you have problems with the link...

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i18/sneeky2u/VentedTopHiveEntrance2.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i18/sneeky2u/VentedTopHIveEntrance-1.jpg


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## drobbins (Jun 1, 2005)

sneeky

the pics are kinda small
it looks like you have the 1"x3"s turned so it's 3" tall
they'll fill that space with comb, but if they fill the comb with honey maybe you'll have the ultimate organic top feeder








I made some similar ones but used all that extra space to build in a top feeder
here's a couple of pics 

http://www.drobbins.net/bee's/tf/

Dave


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## sneekybeez (May 21, 2006)

Dave,

Sorry about the size of the pic's... Actually the bees cannot get beyond the 3/8' entrance - I build an insert and covered it with wire mesh and it sits directly above the opening - the vent holes are above the screen insert. The girls can come into the hive from the top and feel the cool breeze from the vent holes but that's it, that's as far as they can go up. 

Thanks to Michael for pointing out the additional space issue and potential comb problem that might result... 

Any ideas about whether or not to leave the top board in place or remove it????


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## drobbins (Jun 1, 2005)

sneeky

it's a little hard to picture what you've built
it sounds like you have a 3" space above the bees but you've screened it off so the bees can't get into it
and then I guess you have some vent holes
that would be pretty good for ventilation
I just decided to use that space for a feeder
heck, there's no "right" way to do it
let use know what results you get
sounds kinda like a DE hive

http://www.beeworks.com/

Dave


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## sneekybeez (May 21, 2006)

I will Dave... I hope the girls like the new entrance and the cool breeze... I hope I've overcome the issues raised earlier in the post but only time will tell... I'll let you know how it goes... I'm working on a similar entrance that would accomodate a top hive feeder, i.e. top entrance ventilated and access to the feeder as well... I'll post bigger pic's on that one...

Any advice on the top board???


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## King bee apiary (Feb 8, 2005)

We converted to top entrances this year as well,Much better ventilation no bees bearding on front in the heat.We took 3 3/8"x1/2" wooden strips,half lapped them and nailed them in to a spacer that we placed under the inner board then took the telescoping top and cut a 3/8" x 6" slot where the 3/8" gap is.This way we could stil use the same tops.
The only problem I have with a large opening would be robbing.With the 6" slot it can be defended somewhat.
Over all I give top entrances an 'A'


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## drobbins (Jun 1, 2005)

sneeky

let me know what you're up to with your plans
I built 4 and I can see some issues with the way I did it 
I think if I build some more I would change a couple of things (like rotate it 90 degrees)

Dave


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## jdb5949 (Oct 13, 2004)

Sneeky,

In Florida we would have problems with small hive beetles taking over and breeding in any area not patrolled by bees. Even a strong hive would be overwhelmed by SHB breeding in 3" of beeproof space.


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## sneekybeez (May 21, 2006)

James - the space above the screen insert is for ventilation - the bees cannot get into the space. They can only enter through the 3/8" opening directly into the hive. Does that make sense?


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## BWrangler (Aug 14, 2002)

Hi Guys,

While working thousands of hives, with migratory covers over decades, many of the covers would deteriorate and provide a top entrance. When the grass got tall, the bees would prefer the top entrance.

But this beekeeper didn't. It seems that many of the hives were much more defensive when worked with a top entrance. Maybe more displaced guard bees, or displaced/disturbed entrance wound up the bees before getting into the brood areas. When seeing a top entrance in a beeyard, I would always check my smoker to be sure that it was operating properly :>)

Regards
Dennis


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I think you'll find anything more than a propped up top is overkill for design of a top entrance. The top entrance itself will provide all the necessary ventilation. More won't hurt, but also won't matter.

I have a variety of things depending on what equipment was laying around. I shim the inner covers or widen the notches on the inner covers. On the long hives I have 1/4" screen molding under the ends of a migatory cover with cleats. I also have a flat cover with shims. But that flat cover with shims is my favorite.


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## sneekybeez (May 21, 2006)

True Michael - but then idle hands are the... Spare time and spare lumber lead to projects on top of projects... PS - thanks for the imput earlier on the extra space issue - I think I resolved that one... More later...


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## Hampton (Apr 24, 2007)

I've read this thread several times and had many ideas to add but I wanted to wait as I was currently looking at a design for a ventilated top. The top enterence I think will be a 3/8 x 2 inch notch in the top of the upper most super. My tops have a little extra length to them which will allow the bees enterence to this notch. I can slide the top backwards and close the enterence. I look forward to seeing the designs and will give mine up once done.


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## Dan Williamson (Apr 6, 2004)

the only problem with that then is that you ALWAY have to have that super on top... 

why not in the cover somehow... 

I cut mine into my migratory covers. It works very well.

You can see it in my pics.


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## Hampton (Apr 24, 2007)

Dan,

Great idea. I like that better than putting holes in my boxes. Do you use an inner cover with that?


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## Hillside (Jul 12, 2004)

I tried just one hive with an upper entrance this year. It was a migratory top that I just propped open a bit on one side with a small shim. The bees propalized the opening pretty heavily including the tops of the frames closest to the opening. The bees guarded the opening with no trouble, but didn't actually use it very much. I kept the lower opening clear of grass and weeds, so maybe they just didn't feel the need to have an upper.


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