# beeswax candle success!



## Bee Bliss

Hi,

Nice of you to share your video. What size wick did you use?

Couple of tips..............

I agree that shallow glass canning jars work well. I also avoid the taller jars as the burn is more difficult regarding getting oxygen to the flame.

Bobby pins come in two sizes and I clamp the wick in it, center it in the mold and then pour.

Shorter wick would work.

Candles crack when they cool too fast and shrink too much. 

Candles should be aged a few days before burning.

Always remember when pouring into a jar or mold, pour at your final height first and then the second pour should not be higher so you don't have overflow down the sides of the finished candle. They will either be a little lumpy or if different color wax is used from another batch, you will notice it. Not so nice looking.

The candle you burned has a flame that looks weak/small. You can pour a small amount of wax from the melt pool and you will notice a better flame.

A flame that is pointy has a wick that is too tall. The tip of the flame should be rounded or slightly oval. Black smoke would indicate a wick that is too tall or too thick and would be consuming the wax too fast thus burning the wick somewhat. If that were to happen, change wick for future candles. Or, for that particular candle, add small pieces of beeswax to the melt pool.

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Great job. Hope this helps.


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## jesseyarnell

Thank you for all the info and advice! I should have waited a few days I guess, but I was too excited, haha. Well the ones I give out for Christmas should be well set by then. The wick I used was #2/0 (Medium) Square Braided Wick, at least that's what I ordered on Amazon. Based on the pool size of these candles I've tested, maybe I should have gone the next size up? Thanks again,

Jesse


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## mgolden

My understanding is that you need lager diameter wicks for larger diameter candles. Any comments???????

I tried some smaller diameter wicks in 3 inch glass jars and weak flame and wick eventually burnt off. Also read on BS that one needs well cleaned wax as the foreign particles clog the wick.


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## Bee Bliss

There is no "one size fits all". That is why people say to test each batch of wax. Wax can be different acting from one batch to another.

I have also had times when my flame was weak or the flame was raging. What works one time may not work the next time..........although maybe close.

Normally a thicker square braid wick is used for larger diameter candles. I had problems with 3 inch tall pillar candles and then once made one with a 60 ply which worked well. 

As you noted, Jess, I have also heard to do the first burn for a minimum of 1 hour per 1 inch diameter of the candle. If this isn't quite working, a hug may be given at the top to gently push the soft walls downwards towards the melt pool.

Another tip: Take your candle stubs with burned wick and dirt in the wax and add it to your next wax filtering. The wax is able to be salvaged and cleaned so do not throw it out.


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## jesseyarnell

i did my final filter through a cotton tshirt. the wick doesn't appear to be clogging, the only real issue is that the pool didn't reach the sides, even after 3 hours, so it's tunneling a bit. these candles burned for almost 8 hours though today so i'm pretty happy! i also didn't let them set, so that may be causing the issue. when i do this again, i'm going to try 1. votive sized glass with same size wick, 2. larger wick with same weck jars, 3. adding coconut oil to wax, i read that made a better burn. thanks again for all the tips. i think everyone is going to love getting these as gifts.


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## mgolden

Experimented with candles today.









Used a lead fishing weight to clamp on to the end of the wick. A lead weighted candle wick is in the foreground. 

This is a 125ml canning jar. Wick is #4 and measured 1/8 inch in diameter. It is about the right diameter as the wax is being liquified to jar edge. This is the biggest diameter wick the Bee Supply Store sold. Excellent price at 40 cents a yard.

Compress the split fishing lead weight to attach it to the wick. Dip wick in wax to make it stiff. Pour a 1/4 inch of wax into the jar bottom and hold wick until wax hardens around the lead weight. Keep adding layers of wax. Too much wax and you loosen the weight.

I also tried filling the jar half full of wax. Let it harden and drilled a 3/8 hole in the center. Insert the weighted wick and add wax. Let harden and keep adding layers of wax until jar is nearly full.


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## jesseyarnell

that looks really good, how long was that burning for? are those jars easy to find?


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## mgolden

It had been burning for about 45 minutes when pic was taken. 

Jars are small canning jars and are somewhat out of season. Try Walmart and other large food stores and they may still have some. Some hardware stores may carry them and I haven't looked at Amazon but should be there. 

These were 125ml jars. This a 1/2 cup or 4 fluid ounces.


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## Bee Bliss

I recommend not to use either lead core wicks or lead sinkers when making candles. The USA does not allow wick manufacturers to use lead wire inside (as a core) wicks. This is due to the fact that it would burn up and become airborne as the wick is consumed. I would think very hot wax where lead sinkers are used would also have lead contamination which could become airborne. Candles from overseas, however, may still contain lead core wicks unfortunately. Not good.


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## phyber

if you wanted to add aroma to the candle burning, do you just mix in the essential oils desired into the liquid wax before pouring?


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## Bee Bliss

My opinion is that as wonderful as essential oils are (many uses) and have a nice smell, I don't believe they should be burned and thus inhaled that way. I feel essential oils are best used in their natural state and that includes natural aroma uses. Burning stuff changes it.


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## MlCrooks

jesseyarnell said:


>


This is very helpful. May I ask for some feedback? My Dad is a beekeeper and I am attempting to make candles from his wax, he filtered it really well already. 

I was hoping to make 2” round molds. From my research it seems best to do #4 square braided wicks. Does that sound right? 

Does anyone here have any experience making candles in molds with intention of burning them? 

There is fragrance specifically for candle making as well as i see later in the feed would be better than essential oils. Does anyone here have information on the process of adding scent. (Only a bit and only scents that will complement the natural smell ie pine, sandlewood, lavender)

Thank you in advance!

MLC


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## AHudd

MlCrooks said:


> This is very helpful. May I ask for some feedback? My Dad is a beekeeper and I am attempting to make candles from his wax, he filtered it really well already.
> 
> I was hoping to make 2” round molds. From my research it seems best to do #4 square braided wicks. Does that sound right?
> 
> Does anyone here have any experience making candles in molds with intention of burning them?
> 
> There is fragrance specifically for candle making as well as i see later in the feed would be better than essential oils. Does anyone here have information on the process of adding scent. (Only a bit and only scents that will complement the natural smell ie pine, sandlewood, lavender)
> 
> Thank you in advance!
> 
> MLC


My opinion is scents should not be added to beeswax because the scent of a beeswax candle is wonderful all by itself. If one wants their candles to smell like something else, why not use soy based wax. I have to admit I am one of those people that will not enter a Bed Bath store or go near the aisle in any other store where the candles and air fresheners are displayed.  

Alex


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## Fivej

Hi MLC, and welcome to the forum. I am not a candlemaker, so I can't answer your questions. I would suggest searching the archives, and check back here for an answer to your questions instead of opinions you did not ask for. Someone in the know will offer their help. J


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