# new way to treat for both mites



## Dan McClain (Mar 21, 2016)

buy cough drops that are not sugar free and are mentholipts type grind of fine and sprinkle on the top bars of your supers that have brood but not honey supers also once every other weeks put powdered sugar in a puffer sprayer or sifter and spray or sift in every space between frames and I have not tried this but I would think mix some of the cough drop in the sugar might work even better


----------



## Fishmaster50 (Apr 30, 2015)

Where did you hear about the cough drops?


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Don't waste your time and money. This is not a new idea and it didn't work 30 years ago.


----------



## Pete O (Jul 13, 2013)

To me it would be easier to put a drop of eucalyptus oil and sugar in the hives. Sorry but it just doesn't work. OAV is shown to be very good and once you have the vaporizer and battery charger, you have a proven mite treatment.


----------



## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

I've always wanted to do some drop tests after placing sliced, rhubarb strips.
If I ever have nothing better to do, I might try it.


----------



## Richard P (Feb 12, 2016)

I was told from a commercial beek to put 2 on opposite corners on the bottom, whole, But was told they were for traccea mites, not verroa. Just what I was told.


----------



## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

Richard P said:


> I was told from a commercial beek to put 2 on opposite corners on the bottom, whole, But was told they were for traccea mites, not verroa. Just what I was told.


Tracheal mites are microscopic in size (as long as 1.5 times the diameter of a human hair) and spend their entire life cycle within the tracheae (breathing tubes) of adult honey bees. So of course since the tracheal mite is in the throat/tracheae of the bees you should use cough drops.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Why treat for a problem you don't have? Unless you actually dissect the prothoracic trachea of a sample of bees from your hive you can't really know if you have tracheal mites.


----------



## Richard P (Feb 12, 2016)

LOL.. It may or may not work, but the good news it cant hurt either, LOL...I do use em. When warms up, I am going to treat for verroa with the MAQS, and then vapor in the fall. I am trying to give the best chance they have. I want no more absconding issues. On another note, we got another rescue hive from a sofit in Hartford yesterday. Smaller project than that big tree rescue 2 weeks ago, but got a full double nuc from it. .............


Groundhwg said:


> Tracheal mites are microscopic in size (as long as 1.5 times the diameter of a human hair) and spend their entire life cycle within the tracheae (breathing tubes) of adult honey bees. So of course since the tracheal mite is in the throat/tracheae of the bees you should use cough drops. I don't think that is a great idea or treatment.


----------



## Richard P (Feb 12, 2016)

I would rather be preventitive before I have an issue, than after I do. I would only roll the dice with a non invasive, or non chemical approach as an insurance. Wanna give the girls the best chance I can. We overcame a infestation of SHB with a safe approach, and will try that route for everything we can prevent.


----------



## BadBeeKeeper (Jan 24, 2015)

There are some days...when I think an IQ test should be required for internet access...


----------



## Duncan151 (Aug 3, 2013)

BadBeeKeeper said:


> There are some days...when I think an IQ test should be required for internet access...


That would take a lot of the fun out of it!!


----------



## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

If you want to treat for tracheal mites, why not use something that actually works?

Almost no one treats for TM anymore as far as I know...because they aren't a problem. When they were a problem, menthol crystals in a mesh bag (not 2 mentholated cough drops), and/or a grease patty were established methods.

Cough drops and candy canes are a waste of time.


----------



## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

HarryVanderpool said:


> I've always wanted to do some drop tests after placing sliced, rhubarb strips.
> If I ever have nothing better to do, I might try it.


That's funny. When I harvest my rhubarb, I chop it up, mix with sugar and let it sit for a while. It will weep a lot of liquid & I have thought about using on the bees like OA drip. I've never done it, but it's crossed my mind. (Too much juice for a pie anyway  ) 



http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp340/tweety4926/2013 garden/P8240011_zpsii83gh2t.jpg
http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp340/tweety4926/2013 garden/P8230008_zpsskxhlsam.jpg


----------



## JRG13 (May 11, 2012)

Is the rhubarb trick old? Someone was telling me another beekeeper told him that they chop/grind up rhubarb and put in the hive for mites and it seems to work quite well.


----------



## Richard P (Feb 12, 2016)

Thanks for your suggestions deknow. I will try that as a preventative too since it should not have any adverse effects on the hives or bees. I am sure I do not have a prob with them either, but as said before, if it is no skin off the bee's nose, I would rather make my hives as problem free as possible before they may be. A newbie that means weel. .... Just my limited IQ opinion.... LOL. Thanks. R


----------



## jwcarlson (Feb 14, 2014)

Why in the world would you just toss random stuff into your hive because "it can't hurt"? It most certainly COULD hurt. Gasoline and a match will take care off all your varroa and TM mite issues in short order.

I won't delude myself into thinking that someone like me with a couple handfuls of hives is going to solve the varroa problem or save the world or "save the bees" and you shouldn't either. Choose proven techniques and treatments (if you so desire) that have been well tested and have a proven track record. Leave the experimentation to the people smart enough to know tossing cough drops onto the bottom board doesn't do jack squat.

I just had a new beekeeper tell me the other day that he talked to a FORMER beekeeper who told him first, that 8 frames in his 8 frame box was too many, he should take one or two frames out and "spread them out a little". And the same guy also told him that if he puts a piece of cedar wood at the front of the hive the mites won't come into the hive. To which I replied, "Ed, your whole HIVE is made of cedar, if that worked wouldn't you think the WHOLE HIVE BEING CEDAR would be enough...?"


----------



## Richard P (Feb 12, 2016)

Well I think that thought of the coughdrops would be a bit less invasive as your gas and match comment. Nor do I think I will think twice about that course either.And in no way I am saying that I am trying to, nor have the cure for the TM, or VM issues. But I do not see there any harm in the coughdrops either way. If and when I do CONFIRM a definate problem that will in fact NEED attention, I would of course go to a proven method chemically if necesary to irradicate and threat a hive issue. I am not endorsing, nor suggesting anyone do what I am doing, I was just commenting, and sharing info into what I thought was an open, educating, knowledge sharing forum to help people like myself with idea's, that were shared with me. Hope I haven't overstepped my bounds in trying to participate. I will slowly back out of this now ..... R


jwcarlson said:


> Why in the world would you just toss random stuff into your hive because "it can't hurt"? It most certainly COULD hurt. Gasoline and a match will take care off all your varroa and TM mite issues in short order.
> 
> I won't delude myself into thinking that someone like me with a couple handfuls of hives is going to solve the varroa problem or save the world or "save the bees" and you shouldn't either. Choose proven techniques and treatments (if you so desire) that have been well tested and have a proven track record. Leave the experimentation to the people smart enough to know tossing cough drops onto the bottom board doesn't do jack squat.
> 
> I just had a new beekeeper tell me the other day that he talked to a FORMER beekeeper who told him first, that 8 frames in his 8 frame box was too many, he should take one or two frames out and "spread them out a little". And the same guy also told him that if he puts a piece of cedar wood at the front of the hive the mites won't come into the hive. To which I replied, "Ed, your whole HIVE is made of cedar, if that worked wouldn't you think the WHOLE HIVE BEING CEDAR would be enough...?"


----------



## jwcarlson (Feb 14, 2014)

As someone stated above... the cough drop idea isn't new. Do you think commercial guys would be spending (and money) time OAVing, MAQSing, and all sorts of other home brew methods if they could just toss a couple Halls in and make all the problems go away? Do you have ants down in Alabama? If so, do they like gooey sweet stuff in a relatively uncontrolled area? Are bees attracted to strong smelling items? Any harm in ants and or a robbing spree?

Please don't take my comments as overly critical... the internet makes it easy to read so much into statements than isn't there. I'm just trying to say that they COULD could an issue, and any 'roll of the dice' chance has MUCH more likely negative consequences than to any real or perceived positive ones. You haven't overstepped any bounds trying to participate and there's no need to back out. 

Besides, honey is better for coughs and sore throats than cough drops anyway.


----------



## ChuckReburn (Dec 17, 2013)

I've considered marketing a horse shoe labeled as "Varroa Buster" that is tacked over the entrance of a hive... "Proven as effective as most home remedies with no known side effects." I even willing to publish mite counts (of course counts are done in January and only on the hives with young VSH queens that had an August treatment) but don't expect control groups or any scientific method.

$9.99 each + postage and handling... but wait, order now and get a second free (just pay separate postage and handling).


----------



## jwcarlson (Feb 14, 2014)

Chuck, do I need one for each brood box or will a single one above the entrance suffice? Will it have any negative effects if used in conjunction with cough drops, cedar planks, and one of those plastic owls with the light-up eyes that scares varroa away? I'd like to go with the four-pronged approach.


----------



## ChuckReburn (Dec 17, 2013)

jwcarlson said:


> Chuck, do I need one for each brood box or will a single one above the entrance suffice? Will it have any negative effects if used in conjunction with cough drops, cedar planks, and one of those plastic owls with the light-up eyes that scares varroa away? I'd like to go with the four-pronged approach.


If one is good, two has to be better. Right? Detailed instructions are included with each order.


----------



## texanbelchers (Aug 4, 2014)

ChuckReburn said:


> If one is good, two has to be better. Right? Detailed instructions are included with each order.


If you have a big mite problem you'll need a shoe for a Clydsdale, definitely not the miniature horse size.


----------



## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

Richard P said:


> Thanks for your suggestions deknow. I will try that as a preventative too since it should not have any adverse effects on the hives or bees. I am sure I do not have a prob with them either, but as said before, if it is no skin off the bee's nose, I would rather make my hives as problem free as possible before they may be. A newbie that means weel. .... Just my limited IQ opinion.... LOL. Thanks. R


The idea that something (natural or otherwise) had the ability to change things enough to 'help' without a possibility that it could hurt (and the near certainty that there is _some_ negative impact) makes zero sense, and simply isnt reality.


----------



## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

jwcarlson said:


> Chuck, do I need one for each brood box or will a single one above the entrance suffice? Will it have any negative effects if used in conjunction with cough drops, cedar planks, and one of those plastic owls with the light-up eyes that scares varroa away? I'd like to go with the four-pronged approach.


I replaced the red LEDs in the eyes of my magic owl with amber ones, and the best I can tell, there is a 14.37% increase in the VSF (varroa scare factor).


----------



## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

texanbelchers said:


> If you have a big mite problem you'll need a shoe for a Clydsdale, definitely not the miniature horse size.


it's Clydesdale


----------



## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

deknow said:


> The idea that something (natural or otherwise) had the ability to change things enough to 'help' without a possibility that it could hurt (and the near certainty that there is _some_ negative impact) makes zero sense, and simply isnt reality.


There is a long list of these things, both natural or otherwise, in beekeeping today that makes zero sense.
But lots believe in them anyway.
Care to start a comprehensive list of them?
Maybe you even use a few?


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

BadBeeKeeper said:


> There are some days...when I think an IQ test should be required for internet access...


:thumbsup:


----------



## Dave Burrup (Jul 22, 2008)

I think bee keeping has become a religion. The we are going to save the bee, and conventional wisdom is all wrong and probably the cause of the bee problems resists science and facts. Science is replaced by mysticism and hoopla, and is defended vehemently.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

JRG13 said:


> Is the rhubarb trick old? Someone was telling me another beekeeper told him that they chop/grind up rhubarb and put in the hive for mites and it seems to work quite well.


How do they know? Do they do alcohol washes before and after? Rhubarb does have OA in it, naturally. But is it enough to be effective?


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Richard P said:


> Thanks for your suggestions deknow. I will try that as a preventative too since it should not have any adverse effects on the hives or bees. I am sure I do not have a prob with them either, but as said before, if it is no skin off the bee's nose, I would rather make my hives as problem free as possible before they may be. A newbie that means weel. .... Just my limited IQ opinion.... LOL. Thanks. R


Apply it as a preventative all you want, but kneeling beside the hive and praying will work just as well as a preventative for tracheal mites. Actually you can do that from your barkalounger just as effectively.

Dr. Gard Otis, Guelph University, Guelph, Ontario, Canada, did a menthol candy bar experiment back in the late 1980s when t.mites were previlent and found no benefit to menthol infused sugar candy bars.


----------



## texanbelchers (Aug 4, 2014)

clyderoad said:


> it's Clydesdale


Good thing a spelin test isn't required.  I was just horsing around....


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

horsin'


----------



## rbees (Jun 25, 2012)

HarryVanderpool said:


> I've always wanted to do some drop tests after placing sliced, rhubarb strips.
> If I ever have nothing better to do, I might try it.


LOL 

I have signs like one of those red circles with a slash through a mite right above the entrance. When the mites see them the jump right off


----------

