# Hive Stand



## krad1964 (Jun 4, 2011)

Here is what I came up with for a hive stand. I had some extra 2x4s laying around.

It is about 42Lx20Dx18H. I put two cross bars so that the hives could be side by side or back to back.
The legs are 15 degree cut.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

What keeps it from sinking into the ground?


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## krad1964 (Jun 4, 2011)

Not sure. Do you think that would be a problem? I've had a couple out this winter. I have not noticed any sinking.


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## jrbbees (Apr 4, 2010)

Krad, Odds are that when it gets warmer, the hives get heavy and you get 2/3 days of rain you could have problems. Just get some flat paving stones from your DIY shop or Garden shop. Cheap cement 8"x16"x4" caps for caping off block walls also work well. You just want to make a footing bigger than the 2x4 so that the weight is spread out over a larger surface area. Keep it level.


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

I've had a pile of cap stones my mother refused to get rid of from when we replaced our rampway into the basement 30 years ago, and they make a very nice base for a hive stand.

My brother welded up a stand from square tubing and angle iron with a nice flat "foot" on each leg, and I put six of those cap stones down as a base. Very stable, keeps the skunks out, and a coat of nice shiny black paint prevents mice getting up there, too.

We plan to make about four more this year to get my new hive on one and all of his.

Peter


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## tben (Dec 28, 2008)

Looks good krad. Do you make your own boxes too?


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Deleted by Charlie B. Wrong picture


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

To be honest it looks kinda flimsy. Once you get 5 or 6 boxes on full of brood and honey I think it would either collapse or sink or both.

I use 2x8's for railings and 2x4's for legs using galvanized carriage bolts as fasteners along with 3" screws.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

wow Charlie, that's about the neatest/cleanest apiary I have ever seen. nice.


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## krad1964 (Jun 4, 2011)

All good input. I'll hold off building any more, get some stone bases and see how they do. I was thinking that the angled legs would need a cross bar. I'll led you know how they work out. Thanks.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Have you had bees long enuf to know how high you like to work? What starts off waist high gets over ones head pretty quickly sometimes. Something to think about, which you probably have.

Are there any of our engineer beekeepers who can design and build a hive stand that sinks as the hive gets tall? Sorta like the Honey House Super Lifter?


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## krad1964 (Jun 4, 2011)

Still a newbee, 2 winters, 8 hives. The ones I have are 18" up which I find comfortable now.


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## Mr. C (Oct 27, 2011)

Hmmm It's a thought, you'd definately want to go with top entrances if it was going to sink into the ground at all... (with any luck they'd be too tall standing flat on the ground) I think it'd be easier to build a platform next to the hives than have a lift system, or set it up so you can pull a low trailer in behind the hives if you have room (my trailer backing skills will not permit me to attempt backing a trailer in next to my hives).

To be honest though that is one problem I unfortunately have not had yet.


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## Steve10 (Nov 19, 2008)

sqkcrk said:


> Are there any of our engineer beekeepers who can design and build a hive stand that sinks as the hive gets tall? Sorta like the Honey House Super Lifter?


Mark, careful what you ask for!


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I was just giving our engineers something to think about. My hives are only 4 inches off of the ground, so, sometimes I get down on my knees to work the bottom box. A position I am sure some think I should maintain. 

The second deep is easier to work, though I have to bend over some. Which is a good thing.

When I build my hive stands this summer I will build the Double H stand, made out of 2X6 pressure treated lumber.

The OP illustration does look nice. I'm sure it suits your needs and you will be glad to have it. Others will be inspired to reproduce it also, I imagine. Good job.


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## krad1964 (Jun 4, 2011)

I think I am going to add some cross boards on the legs, similar to a picnic table design. I have weights laying around the house. I think I will load the hive stand up and see how it holds the weight. 

I do have another "inspection stand" that is taller, maybe 3' and not as long. I use this to place the hive bodies on after inspecting so I don't always have to bend over. It holds two hive bodies, plus smoker. Dragging around the bee yard is not that big of a deal and gives me something to do after smoking the next hive. 

I wonder if attaching the cross members on the legs at the very bottom would also solve the sinking problem? Also, thinking about using the same angled legs in the middle with a cross member.


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## Steve10 (Nov 19, 2008)

Mark, you're funny!

Krad, for what it's worth, I use 2x4 legs on a couple of Top Bar Hives I have and 12 foot long "bench" I made to work my nucs. They are on very soft ground. I remedied the sinking problem with a bunch of those short 2x4 cut-off blocks you always end up with. You know, they're about 4-6" long and you keep them forever just knowing you can use them for something. I use them like mini-pavers under the legs. I tried the cross member on the bottom trick and that worked too, but it's little more work. 

Oh yeah, your stands look nice! Good job....look like perfect size for a coffee table if you quit beekeeping!


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

>What keeps it from sinking into the ground? 
How could they sink into the ground through hardwood flooring?


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## Mr. C (Oct 27, 2011)

Sorry I forget people actually like living in cities. I was thinking of those elusive 20ft colonies the Canadians were talking about in a different thread <grins>. If you wanted to reach the top you'd have to have the hive sitting over a pit in order to lower it enough to reach... Maybe you could use a rooftop freight elevator... Jam the door open and use the emergency stop to lower it down some, of course you might have to put a hole in the elevator roof too...


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

odfrank said:


> >What keeps it from sinking into the ground?
> How could they sink into the ground through hardwood flooring?


I'm sure that's just for overwintering.:applause:
(Bet they have a LOT of houseplants!)


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## throrope (Dec 18, 2008)

I cut and screw together treated landscape timbers. Three eight footers make two stands. "Kickers" from the cast off bin work well for the middle pieces. Arranging is easy and Leveled and pitched to the front they don't go anywhere. They easily accommodate two nucs facing the other way.







The middle deep was one year's unsuccessful swarm prevention. I also prefer deck finish in lieu of paint. Makes them less noticeable to the apprehensive.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

sqkcrk said:


> wow Charlie, that's about the neatest/cleanest apiary I have ever seen. nice.


Thanks Mark,

These photo's were taken in April last year. It's increased in length to 40 feet with 12 hives, all swarms. I'm eventually going to fall off the edge of the roof!


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## LSBees (Sep 24, 2009)

I built one like this 3 years ago, haven't had any problems.
http://www.endtimesreport.com/Beekeeping.htm


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## krad1964 (Jun 4, 2011)

I added the cross boards and put down some short 2x4 so it doesn't sink through the hardwood floor.  I added 330 lbs to the top of the hives. I'll let you know if it gets stressed.


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