# soldering a copper tube into jar feeder



## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I believe it's a 1/8" flared fitting for use in copper compression fittings. I found them in the plunbing spare parts at Lowes and HD for about .80 each.


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## Bodo (Mar 11, 2008)

I think they're using a tube insert for a compression fitting.


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## Swobee (May 18, 2007)

Why wouldn't silicone sealant work to hold the tube in place? Soldering dissimilar metals is a challange and the heat would cause premature corrosion of the tin jar lid IMO.


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## Lance (Aug 11, 2005)

I tried it this year, but it didn't work for me. The jars seemed to work fine indoors, but when I used them outside the sun warmed up the jar and all the syrup leaked out drowning my mating nukes!!! What a mess!! Unless I missed something, but I copied Randy Oliver's method that I found in the ABJ. Does anybody has any ideas on what I might have done wrong???


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## Swobee (May 18, 2007)

Without seeing it with my own eyes, I'd assume the tube was too large a diameter or somehow air was getting into the jar allowing the syrup to drain. Only a guess, though.


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## Chef Isaac (Jul 26, 2004)

why not just ask randy oliver?


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## Lance (Aug 11, 2005)

The tube size was 1/8" As far as I know it should work just fine. The lid was sealed tightly as well.


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## mike haney (Feb 9, 2007)

*tubes*

why bother at all when a 1 gallon paint can or a pickle jar with some holes punched in the lid with a frame nail works so well and is so easy?


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

It's nice that it only takes a 1/4" hole in the lid. Mine worked great, but a quart paint can with 3 holes in the lid works as well and it's cheaper and easier.


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Hi all
After trying to solder the 1/8" copper lengths to fruit jar lids I took someone on here's advice and used epoxy. That did the trick, but the tubes let too much syrup out. It worked ok in the house, like Lance said, but in the field too much syrup came out.
So I squeezed the end of the tube closed about 40% with pliers.

Reason it works better than pickle jars is because you can stick a pint or quart jar of syrup over a 2 frame mating nuc (or whatever) and just drill a 1/4" or so hole through the top.


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

As the sun comes up and the day starts warming, the liquid in the jar will start expanding and squirt out into the nuc or hive. I use various containers inside an empty box on top, or use inner hive frame feeders, so I don't get the expansion of the liquid from sunlight shining thru a jar or bottle.


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## tecumseh (Apr 26, 2005)

I have a handful of feeders made up for mating nucs. I use a nail to make the hole in the lid and I use a bit of old telescoping radio antenna for the 'feeding' tube. the seal is made by using a hot glue gun. any and all types of exposed glass feeders here (texas) must be shielded from the sun to prevent evacuation of the content via temperature and pressure (I think mr marler suggested the same thing).


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## pcelar (Oct 5, 2007)

Ross said:


> but a quart paint can with 3 holes in the lid works as well and it's cheaper and easier.


How do you see Ross how much is used?


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## Gene Weitzel (Dec 6, 2005)

pcelar said:


> How do you see Ross how much is used?


I use the same method, and you get pretty good at estimating based on the weight of the can when you lift it slightly.


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## stangardener (Mar 8, 2005)

i was ready to try some .22 shells and jb weld but while thinking about it i came up with the question of why even bother with a tube? i like the idea of only having a quarter inch hole in the cover but why not just a single hole in the jar lid and no tube?


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

RayMarler said:


> As the sun comes up and the day starts warming, the liquid in the jar will start expanding and squirt out into the nuc or hive. I use various containers inside an empty box on top, or use inner hive frame feeders, so I don't get the expansion of the liquid from sunlight shining thru a jar or bottle.


OK thanks Ray that explains it! I tested it repeatedly inside the house and it did not leak. I think it is a combination of a vacuum and surface tension.

But surprised that they do seem to leak sometimes even though I squeezed off the tube to make it smaller.


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## pcelar (Oct 5, 2007)

Gene Weitzel said:


> I use the same method, and you get pretty good at estimating based on the weight of the can when you lift it slightly.


Let me ask out of curiosity, why don't you guys use glass jar with couple 1/16" holes in the cover?


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## MichaelW (Jun 1, 2005)

The size of a hole in the hive lid is important to consider in
my area. I tried glass jars, and 
plastic buckets with holes over a ~2" diameter hole in the
lid. In winter, it killed bees pretty good with leaking rain
water. Any other time of year, rain leaked in around the 
jars pretty good. Then when I was done feeding, I had to seal
up the holes with caulk and a covering, as anything else would
leak. A small hole could probably be filled with duct tape till the
bees propolized it.
I imagine if you drilled a very small hole
in the lid, then did not use a tube, it would be pretty darn hard
to hit the hole. I haven't tried the tubes yet, but have a pack
ready to install, with some half gallon glass jars. We'll see how
it goes, at some point.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I have 2" and 3" holes in virtually all of my tops. I just lay a loose board over them when not in use. Rain leaking in has never been an issue. I'm not saying it doesn't leak in, but I haven't lost a hive (out of 50 now) in several years. Mine are on SBB, so the water doesn't stay around. I would look for other causes.


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## Gene Weitzel (Dec 6, 2005)

Ross said:


> I have 2" and 3" holes in virtually all of my tops. I just lay a loose board over them when not in use. Rain leaking in has never been an issue. I'm not saying it doesn't leak in, but I haven't lost a hive (out of 50 now) in several years. Mine are on SBB, so the water doesn't stay around. I would look for other causes.


I follow almost exactly the same protocol with exactly the same results. I thought I came up with it on my own, but I guess some sensible options can hit independently on the imaginations of multiple persons.


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## MichaelW (Jun 1, 2005)

No need to look for other causes, just look in the upper right
hand corner of your post. TX and TN are very different. We often 
get late winter rain followed by sub-freezing
temps. Wet bees + freeze = dead bees.
Pour enough rain on the top you described and it will leak.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

So do we. Don't mistake hot summers for mild winters in north Texas. November up through April ice storms are very common here. Single digits aren't unheard of, but aren't common. Teens and twenties are common. 16 days without getting above freezing in 1980. 

My tops are plywood without a rim. If you add strips around your tops, that makes a dam that then feeds into the hole.


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## Gene Weitzel (Dec 6, 2005)

Ross said:


> .... 16 days without getting above freezing in 1980.


I remember that cold snap. I was living in West Central Texas at the time we went 21 days without getting above freezing. My wife and I had just gotten married, we bought an all electric house and our electric bill for that one month was over $600.00 (that's 1980 dollars)! What a miserable 3 weeks.


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## Swobee (May 18, 2007)

Gene Weitzel said:


> I remember that cold snap. I was living in West Central Texas at the time we went 21 days without getting above freezing. My wife and I had just gotten married, we bought an all electric house and our electric bill for that one month was over $600.00 (that's 1980 dollars)! What a miserable 3 weeks.


I, too was a newly wed around that era. We had other ways to keep warm. A woodstove was but one of them.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Turn down the AC and revive the memories


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## tecumseh (Apr 26, 2005)

gene weitzel writes:
I follow almost exactly the same protocol with exactly the same results. I thought I came up with it on my own

tecumseh replies: I utilize what sounds like the same thing... being quite non inventive I stole the idea from a commercial beekeeper who use to employ me in florida back when heck was a pup (perhaps ??? four decades ago).

if the feeder lid get properly glued in place, then very little water problems occur. most time when problems arise (for me) it is when a bottle gets blown off the top. I would also suggest that the net effect on a hive with a leaking top cover of snow is not the same as ice.


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## Baloo (Feb 28, 2006)

Gene Weitzel said:


> I follow almost exactly the same protocol with exactly the same results. I thought I came up with it on my own, but I guess some sensible options can hit independently on the imaginations of multiple persons.


Hive mentality here 

I cut holes with a holesaw in my tops that fits a wide mouth mason jar. I can buy half-gallon mason jars locally, which make great feeders ( you can check them at a distance). Since the holesaw leaves a circular cutout piece, I just nail it to a scrap board that is larger than the hole. This makes a lid or cover for the hole that will not blow away. The bees will readily propolize the 1/8" internal gap which makes a good seal.


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