# Turning 10 frame deeps into split nuc boxes



## asd (Jun 10, 2015)

Use a chainsaw to cut the channels for the dividers. It's fast and easy. I've made quite a few 4 by 2 queen castles lately. I nail a board on the bottom and drill holes in 4 directions. On top you can use a a large board or smaller ones.


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## ethanhogan (Jun 1, 2016)

Any one have any pictures, books, tutorials on how these things are made?? If I split the hives into 2 5 frame nucs I dont think that would be to bad, but the 4 way nucs with tiny frames seems pretty difficult to make all the parts. Most succesful beekeepers that over winter nucs, rear queens, and increase their hive count seem to use this method that is why I am so interested. I do not want to buy or build specific nuc boxes if I can just use the equipment I have. thanks everyone. If there is a thread on here to it hopefully I will find it


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Here are some earlier threads ....

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?292369-Divider-boards-for-deep-supers-for-nucs
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?276701-Wanted-Mating-Nuc-plans-And-Frames
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?320534-Quick-Deep-Divider-to-Make-2-Nucs

related ...
http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...n-overwintering-40-mating-nucs-on-mini-frames
http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...an-on-overwintering-200-queens-on-mini-frames


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Do you mean a queen castle? You said that you wanted to use standard equipment then you asked about tiny frames so I was a little confused.
http://honeydrunkapiaries.blogspot.com/2014/11/build-your-own-queen-castle-two-frame.html
has a nice set of queen castle plans similar to the ones I built from the plans from the other forum. It uses 2 standard deep frame divisions. 
You can take the 10 frame deep, and cut a 1/4" deep kirf (blade cut) with a circular saw by clamping piece of wood 1.25" (my saw dimensions) from where you want to cut. Make the cut, move the wood the width of the blade (1/8") and cut it again. Make 3 of these slots in the deep, cut (4) 1/2" holes, cut in some vents in the top and you are done. the melamine will slide in and you make plywood tops to fit your final dimensions.


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## ethanhogan (Jun 1, 2016)

Thanks so much guys this will help, ALOT. And, Minz by tiny frames I mean a 4 way queen castle out of a 10 frame deep box. there are 4 small nucs in each 10 frame deep box if i understand correctly. The frames have to be cut down to be like tiny frames similar to a frame size of a small mating nuc I think. The hard part about be keeping is all the choices the 100's of ways of doing things hahahaha


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## thehackleguy (Jul 29, 2014)

You can make frames simply using the Spehar frames:http://www.guerillabeekeepers.com/gbk/beekeeping-supplies/25-spehar-9-14-deep-beekeeping-frame.html

Just cut the bars to the length you need.


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## ethanhogan (Jun 1, 2016)

thats really neat! never seen those before. I may just have to buy some to just play with. Thanks! Have you used them?? Good reports??


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## thehackleguy (Jul 29, 2014)

I did a review on them (equipment section) and I'm putting them into use this season. So far so good, I have a modified Warre' hive that I'm using them in and they are super easy to fit to the size of the hive. Check Ebay for some listings also.


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## ethanhogan (Jun 1, 2016)

I will check that out. I really like the idea of being able to customize the size! I could ever use them with my topbars if nothing else worked out


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## DirtyLittleSecret (Sep 10, 2014)

Those are neato. Great. Now I gotta get some of those for making mini nucs.


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## marshmasterpat (Jun 26, 2013)

Some good infor here. Thanks everyone. 

Radar - Thanks for all the links combined as one.


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

I like my quads. I made snug follower boards so I can remove them in fall to combine each side into 10 half sized deeps. Separate inner covers made from FRP with 3" screened hole for ventilation when confined, feed hole for inverted mason jar once they are turned loose.



















My returns are good and as lng as I get mated queens out by day 20 and remove a frame of brood, they don't get too fat.


I made a couple 6 way mating nucs too, they work but so far (2 rounds) return has never been better than 5. 





























Every mating nuc I have has an 1 1/4" -1 1/2" screened vent/drainage hole in the bottom of each section.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

How come Lauri's syrup is greenish? Mine is clear, C&H cane sugar.
Did you mix in some vitamins powder too? Mine are munching on the muscle mass protein powder mixed
in with the patty sub but never looking radio-active like yours.




ethanhogan said:


> How do you make the deeps into divided nucs? Divider board/ feeder like Kirk Webster uses?


I only use what I have to convert the deep box into nucs.
Here is the 1/4" foam cardboard dividers wrap with aluminum foil. This way the
bees will not chew out the foam boards. I also use window #8 wire screen on both
sides of the dividers with a large rectangular hole to allow the bees to share the
heat in the winter time. Some are solid without any hole. I can leave them in as long as I like to or take
them out completely when not in use. No slot or anything cut on the deep box leaving it as original as possible.
The slots on the box will harbor SHB when not in use if you have some there.

Foam board divided 10 deep hive:


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

beepro said:


> How come Lauri's syrup is greenish? :


Vitamin & Electrolytes + cider vinegar+ citric acid

Bee Gatorade


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

With no sugar added?
Taste like the sour mouth lemon-head candy.
Just wonder if the bees like the extra acid?


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

beepro said:


> With no sugar added?
> Taste like the sour mouth lemon-head candy.
> Just wonder if the bees like the extra acid?


_Lauri_ is not leaving out the sugar!
Remember, bees need honey/sugar to fuel their daily activities. 



Lauri said:


> I mix about 2 to 2 1/2 gallons of very hot tap water with 25# cane sugar, splash of cider vinegar, sprinkle of citric acid and electrolytes with vitamins. Mix with drill and paint paddle for about 2 minutes. Syrup goes from very milky to opaque yellowish color. It clears on it's own shortly after. After pouring out into the feeders, there is sometimes a tiny bit of undissolved sugar at the bottom of the bucket, but I just mix that up with the next batch.


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> _Lauri_ is not leaving out the sugar!
> Remember, bees need honey/sugar to fuel their daily activities.


LOL, of course it is a syrup mix. additives are the same for any strength syrup. From about 1/2:1 for setting out during extended dearth periods in an open feeder. 1:1 which I feed almost exclusively- for brood stimulation and feeding mating nucs or 2:1 for weight if a colony has some catching up to do in fall for what ever reason.

I don't have much of a problem with robbing late summer, but the open feeders help keep bees away from me when I open the small mating nucs during the day so I can continue to work without risking making them a target. I'll also add a couple drops of bleach to the bucket to keep it fresher during hot weather. There's not much sugar in it, a 25# sack will make 3, five gallon buckets, but they are all over it and can use the extra water source. I wait until they've capped all their honey, brooded down a bit and consumed much of the nectar they've backfilled in the brood cells before offering these open feeders.


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## ethanhogan (Jun 1, 2016)

That is a serious feeding system you have there Laurie! Wow is all I can say. Lol


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