# Breaking Down Clay Soil



## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

I tilled up a new garden a couple of weeks ago. It’s 40’ x 30’. After the first couple of inches it a heavy clay soil. I put a couple of front end tractor loads of compost and worked it in. Are there any soil amendments that I can add that will aide in the process of breaking down the clay soil? I don’t want to do a raised bed, but want some softer more loam type soil.


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## dragonfly (Jun 18, 2002)

Derek, I have the really dark clay here, and the best thing I have found to use as an additive is lava sand. I use lots of compost too, but the lava sand keeps it from compacting down so bad. The dark clay is rich in nutrients, but it is difficult on root formation. A few years ago, I had a company bring me a load of 4 yards compost and 2 yards of lava sand. It has worked well so far.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

I have used lava sand around the house alot. I like that stuff. I didn't know you could buy it in bulk. I will look into that. Thanks!


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Found some bulk!

http://www.soilbuildingsystems.com/SandData.php#


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## dragonfly (Jun 18, 2002)

Yeah, it can be kinda pricey, but it doesn't need to be replenished often as I have found compost does. It seems to really get the worm numbers up too.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

compost and expanded shale are the two most recommended amendments here.


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

*Hoes in a bag*

Gypsum is highly effective cheap and benign.


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## gingerbee (Jul 22, 2006)

I've used horse manure with great results. It is usually mixed in with hay/straw and free from farms that need it removed. Some will even load it for you.


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## cow pollinater (Dec 5, 2007)

Gypsum will greatly improve water penetration and it's cheap. 
Another thing that I've done in my clay soil is dump fresh grass clippings on each row right before I turn the soil. I till it in and then plant. After I plant I pile the clippings on in between the rows heavy as mulch. The following year I start new plants in the areas that were mulched and mulch the areas that I planted this year. I compost as well but I only use it on my flower beds in front of the house. (The quality of my love-life depends largely on the quality of flowers I am able to produce so all the good stuff goes to the flowers:thumbsup
I've been doing that for four years and I noticed a difference the first season after I started. Now I have beautifull soil.
If you don't have a big yard, call a lawn maintenance company. Most are happy to find a local place to dump clippings.


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## giant pumpkin peep (Mar 14, 2009)

There is many things you can do. First you might want to get a lot of gysum and put it on there. What happens is you want to have a certain percentage calciam and magniziom(spelled wrong) If you have to much MAG, you get clay. Gotta raise the calciam to prevent clay. You can get a soil test from A&L western labs to figure out how much gypsum you need to put on. Also yo can get what is called a subsoiler. Sorry if someone already metioned this. I didn't read the whole thread.


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## red rambler (Mar 15, 2009)

In the piedmont it is important not to work it when it is wet, ie when it stays clumped together when you sqeeze it in you hand.


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

*Heavy ground*

Rambler is so right...and that is just the measure...if a handfull balls up it's too wet to work. Or even walk on for that matter. ( In a garden )


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## slickbrightspear (Jan 9, 2009)

be careful of one thing clay, plus lime plus, sand equals cement.


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## dcross (Jan 20, 2003)

Any organic matter is temporary, sand is permanent! Not saying OM is bad, I use a lot of it myself.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Is there just a standard garden gypsum that can be bought at places like depot. We don't have any real good nurseries here, and I was not wanting to have to drive to Dallas.

Cow Pollinater:



> I've been doing that for four years and I noticed a difference the first season after I started


In your love life or the flowers?


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## cow pollinater (Dec 5, 2007)

> Is there just a standard garden gypsum that can be bought at places like depot. We don't have any real good nurseries here, and I was not wanting to have to drive to Dallas.


Most ag chemical supply houses should hook you up much cheaper than any home improvement chain.





> In your love life or the flowers?


I only do the mulch thingee on the veggies now. Year thirty has found me much more interested in eating well than chasing my wife around the house.
compost wouldn't cut it, I'd have to crack out the miracle grow to get that kind of bloom again.


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## comb (Jan 12, 2006)

i uee horse manure works great price is even better free


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Our radio garden expert (nationally recognized) doesn't think gypsum has much effect on loosening clay soil, and my experience is the same. Here is a more authoritative opinion:


an article by Dr. David Minner, professor of horticulture at Iowa State University [(515) 294-5726], who writes a regular column for “sportsTURF” magazine. He wrote:

“Gypsum, or calcium sulfate, is often applied, but seldom needed, due to a classic misunderstanding arising from its association with improving water movement and soil structure on sodic (high sodium) soils that are typically found only in semi-arid climates. The calcium in gypsum displaces salt in the soil. The salt then reacts with sulfate to form sodium sulfate, which is highly water soluble and easily leaches away. Removing the salt from the soil helps to aggregate soil particles, which eventually restores the soil structure. But this situation only occurs when the soil structure deteriorates because of high salt. These wet, sodic soils are slick, sticky, and have poor drainage...very similar to heavily trafficked clay soils that are not affected by excess salt. Both situations create hard soil with poor structure and drainage. Only a soil test will determine if there is a true need for gypsum application.”


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## Zane (Mar 28, 2008)

I am trying some stuff from my area called "Mushroom Stuff" and another product from the same company. They are out of Kansas and I got it from Hummerts(www.hummert.com I think) It is suppose to break down clay via micro organisms, myk., and other goodies. Its not cheap but I have some worn out poor dirt here and wanted to try the new stuff.
I also keep adding organic matter from the mulch and wood chip bins.

On the gypsum, yes you can get it @ local stores like a true value. Even Wallyworld has it @ some stores.


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## brooksbeefarm (Apr 13, 2008)

*Clay soil*

I have heavy clay soil that i truck farm, the way i deal with it is to plant weat,oats or rye grass in the fall and turn it under in the spring.It makes a green fertilizer and helps keep the soil loose. I do this on 5 acres fore tomato's,corn,cucumbers and melons. It works for me. Jack


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## BEES4U (Oct 10, 2007)

*Soil texture triangle*

Good information about determining your soil texture:
http://www.uwsp.edu/geO/faculty/ritter/glossary/s_u/soil_texture_triangle.html

You will need to apply a lot of "sharp sand" to move out of the clay.
Ernie


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## Black Creek (May 19, 2006)

*perlite & vermiculite*

if you are just doing a garden sized are, perlite and vermiculite really do the trick. 6cu.ft. bags here sell for about $15-$18 i usually ask them for the busted bags , they are always happy to get rid of them and cut me a big price break.


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## Matt NY (Jan 14, 2006)

As mentioned and should the first rule with any amount of clay, never work when wet.

Use low till or no till methods. Make the most of those couple of inches you have before you hit the clay. Work with what you have, not against it.

Clay particles can be thought of as flat, like a deck of cards. Organic material can be worked in between these particles.

I wouldn't bother with sand, etc. the amount needed to do any real good wouldn't be worth it to me. Maybe if I had a money pit garden!

Green manure would be my first choice. Maybe a nice section in Buckwheat to add some loft and plenty of organic material. This will also keep the weeds down. It can be tilled under when it starts to bloom (as a beekeeper, not my first choice) or after it seeds. The former is easily tilled under, the latter will need to be cut first, but will yield a second crop.

DO NOT till this in very deeply, don't worry about getting it all worked in. Add some compost or animal manure if you can get it, but focus on building the loft. This will give you a kind of raised bed.

Keep out of the garden when it is even a little wet.

Slowly, but steadily this will build you a sweet garden spot.


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## Black Creek (May 19, 2006)

*leaves*

get lots and lots of leaves. people bag them up in their yards and leave them on the side of the road. I just dumped out about 4 pickup truck loads of bagged leaves onto a new garden spot then i ran over it one time with the tractor tiller, then put down lime heavily and tilled it again. looks like great soil now. Its kind of like composting in place. the lime will get it to break down fast.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Thanks for all the help. I have gone the free route so far. Besides a couple loads of compost and a bag or two of lava sand. I got with a local land scaper and he brings me his bagged grass and he just brought me some leaves. I am leaving the grass in the bags for a week or so hoping any weed seeds my die off. The extra bags I get over year are going to go to my compost pile which I am starting soon. Thanks again for all the help. Good info.

Derek


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## Black Creek (May 19, 2006)

*bagged grass clippings*

the bagged grass.... that is gonna turn nasty really fast. with in a week, a bag of grass can become an anaerobic slimy mass of grossness. I think most people worry about weed seeds too much from grass clippings. think of grasses as a crop of grain. if you cut the grain before the seed heads appear, you have no grain. if you cut the grain when the seed heads are too young, you have no grain. most of the lawn grasses wont get a chance to go to seed. some do of course, but not many. i use grass clippings all the time as a mulch. if its put down in a nice thick layer, i never see weeds coming up. Its when its put down as mulch too thin, thats when it seems like it was full of weed seeds because if it's too thin all you have done is mulched the weeds already there. so they grow better and become instantly obvious.


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