# fruit trees



## jkola404 (Jan 8, 2008)

Try Strak Brothers, we have planted 1000's of apple tress from them with great success 

http://www.starkbros.com/


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## Fishman43 (Sep 26, 2011)

I like Stark Brothers and Miller nurseries. I have ordered from both and recieved great service. In fact Miller has replaced a tree I had trouble several times (the second time was even my own fault).


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## scottsbees (Dec 19, 2007)

I order from Stark bros every year. Good trees.


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

I have ordered many fruit trees and fruiting bushes from Raintree Nursery in Washington state four different years. Lots of different varieties to select from. Quality bareroot. We were pleased with everything.

Right now I am looking at my slip from April 2007. 
Total was $133.70 including shipping ($25). Shipped from Washington state to Wisconsin.
I bought 1 blackberry, 5 pear trees, 1 highbush cranberry, 2 raspberry plants. The pear trees were $21.75 ea. 

I just placed an order for a peach, pluot, crab apple and a different blackberry plant. I have also purchased plums, sour cherry, mulberry and other trees/plants from them. We found out about this company because it and others were recommended by members of Garden web, fruit & orchard forum. 

Check out their web page: www.raintreenursery dot com


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## Don'tWorryBeeHappy (May 13, 2011)

I've ordered a couple trees from this site during winter when Home Depot stops carrying their cheap trees and I'm stuck inside dreaming of warmer weather.

http://www.arborday.org/Shopping/Trees/TreeDetail.cfm?id=52


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

Try Cummins:

http://www.cumminsnursery.com/available2012.php

They specify the rootstock used/available and there's no unnecessary price jump from dwarf to semi-dwarf.


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

I would recommend avoiding dwarf rootstock and get semi-dwarf instead. Often times a tree (with larger fruits) on dwarf rootstock will not have enough roots in the ground to keep the tree upright when the fruit is getting heavy especially with soft ground after a good rain. A dwarf tree tends to overbear and the trees with larger fruits (like apple and pear) will have limbs tear. Dwarf trees need their limbs braced to avoid this damage.

Of course, standard rootstock is also an option. Just avoid dwarf.

Use summer pruning to keep the trees smaller if that is what you want in a tree instead of relying solely on the rootstock to do that. Typically they say to plant your tree and only lightly dormant (winter) prune to shape it thru the next years. Then when the tree is the size you want to keep it at (say 10 feet), you shift to summer pruning only. However, any diseased or dead limbs can be pruned off at any time. I recently read that for certain fruit trees, summer pruning should be avoided when they are susceptible to disease time-frames. Times, for example, when fireblight is prevalent.

If you see a burnt/scorched looking tip on a tree, prune about 12 inches below the damage. Fireblight can kill a tree. Sanitize pruners between cuts.

Edit: Soil, climate and water, etc. may determine your rootstock also.


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## forgeblast (Feb 4, 2011)

If you are going to order a bunch, lawyer nursery is a great place to buy from. You have to buy in bundles of five or more but their product it top notch. I planted over 200 trees/shrubs from them and I am very impressed with them.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Guy I hunt with was telling me that they had too many fruit trees for this year. He is a nursery grower that supplies trees to the big boys. Send me a PM and an idea of how many or if you are looking for something specific and I will see if he would cut you a deal (and reduce his fire pile size at the same time).


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## TWall (May 19, 2010)

> I would recommend avoiding dwarf rootstock and get semi-dwarf instead. Often times a tree (with larger fruits) on dwarf rootstock will not have enough roots in the ground to keep the tree upright when the fruit is getting heavy especially with soft ground after a good rain. A dwarf tree tends to overbear and the trees with larger fruits (like apple and pear) will have limbs tear. Dwarf trees need their limbs braced to avoid this damage.
> 
> Of course, standard rootstock is also an option. Just avoid dwarf.


While dwarf rootstocks may not be right for you does not make them bad. They definitely require different management. One of the big advantages of dwarf rootstocks is their precociousness, they fruit earlier and heavier. That means they need to be managed differently. They often need some form of support since they also have a smaller root system. They often need more aggressive pruning so they don't produce more fruit than they can physically support. In years with a high fruit set fruit thinning may be need to reduce the fruit load. This will also result in improved fruit quality and size.

Another advantage of dwarf rootstocks is because the trees are so small they can often be grown where a standard or semi-dwarf cannot be grown.

Tom


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

Great thread! Hopefully, this information will help shorten the learning curve for some. I learned all of this on a fruit forum. Growing fruit is very rewarding. *Whatever you decide, at least go into it as informed as you can be. * 

While neglecting to mention the fruit thinning (needed heavily) which is absolutely necessary for a tree on dwarf due to the reasons I mentioned previously, fruit thinning is also necessary on trees on other than dwarf rootstock. All trees seem to overproduce. Thinning aids the fruit quality and size of fruit. It is just that with regard to fruiting, it is as though the dwarf tree is on steroids with regard to fruiting. With a dwarf, just when you think you have got it right, you must thin again a little later. In addition to the fruit being too heavy for the limbs, the limbs also are smaller/weaker. Expect to have to prop limbs of dwarfs. It is a big problem for apples and pears. This may not apply to the smaller fruits such as cherries.

Dwarf rootstock can also be a problem in droughty conditions due to a small root system being inadequte to supply water to the tree that sits on it.

Again, consider soil type, climate, water for your rootstock. Some rootstock does not tolerate heavy soils or extreme winters. Rootstock will also affect vigor or growth rate of a tree. Trees fruit at a younger age with either dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock. Dwarf probably earlier.

To me, having dwarf rootstock is a deal breaker as I am not inclined to desire lumber structures to hold the limbs and tree up. My cousin actually had her pear tree tip over due to being so full of developing fruit. I explained that her dwarf rootstock had a root system that was too small which was the source of the problem when she told me she suspected "something must be wrong with the roots" 'cause the tree won't stay in the ground. She also has limbs tearing off. 

Many of the problems mentioned can be eliminated by going with semi-dwarf rootstock. In addition, with certain pruning techniques, even trees with the potential to grow large can, in fact, be kept much smaller. Do not depend on rootstock alone to keep a tree small. Summer prune to keep the tree small. A semi-dwarf can be kept the same size as a dwarf, but it has stronger branches and more root for anchoring and keeping the tree fed and hydrated.

Some people actually grow non-dwarf trees in containers. The container greatly effects the size of the tree and actually results in dwarfing, but pruning is also necessary. Some operations grow their trees in the ground 2 to 4 feet apart as spindles.....basically a pole with small branches. 
If you end up with dwarf rootstock, don't be afraid to thin, thin, thin!


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

I've started to "play" with apple trees and I have two trees on interstems; Cox's Orange and a Liberty. I also have a number of grafts on interstems, others on B118, B9, and mm 111. I'm going to be grafting some cider varieties onto EMLA 106's in March. 

Except for the few dwarfs I have, I'm philosophically against planting trees that need support. 

If anyone's interested I could eventually share a bundle (100) of 1/4" EMLA 106's.

As for Lawyer, their price on trees is very low. The problem is that the number of varieties is low as well.


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## Ozarkhighlands (Nov 13, 2011)

Another vote for Starkbros, we've had great success with their fruit/nut trees.


LaRae


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## JOHNYOGA2 (Sep 30, 2008)

You might consider Burnt Ridge Nurseries, also. I find their prices very good and they have a large selection.


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