# My homemade extractor - 4 frame radial for about $60



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Nice job!

I particularly like the square hole in the arms that capture the ears of the frame. That is a neat way of keeping the frame oriented properly.


I bought a "parted-out" extractor drum and reel from Brushy Mtn's _Bargain Barn_ at a very attractive price. I assumed that the unit had been damaged, then stripped. After I got it functioning I added 2 sections of inexpensive clear plexiglass hinged to the fixed crosspiece at the top of the drum. I like being able to see what's happening inside while still having a lid in place.


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## angel (Jul 23, 2013)

This is awesome! The bottom bearing placement was something I was curious about. Cutting board.... great idea!


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## wheeler88 (Mar 6, 2011)

Really nice job. Thanks for sharing....


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## Dave Warren (May 14, 2012)

Really cool Frank, what a talent and forethought!


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> Nice job!
> 
> I particularly like the square hole in the arms that capture the ears of the frame. That is a neat way of keeping the frame oriented properly.
> 
> ...


Thanks Rader. Design note: I actually did add two pegs further back on each of the bottom arms to keep the frames straight. The lower side of the frame sits between these pegs made from 1/4" dowel and only stick up a half inch. If I had machined those square holes more accurately and/or used hardwood instead of pine I may not of had to. It turns out there is quite a bit of twisting stress on the ears of the frame which could result in weakening the frame though so I think they are needed.

I also tighten the wing nut down very firm which helps keep the frames oriented.

I like the plexiglass idea. I may incorporate that. I like to see inside as well during spinning. I did a few frames without the lid on at the entrance to my garage. I've noticed a lot of yellowjackets cruising the area since. I think more honey flew out than I relalized!


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

Where do you find food grade trash cans ?


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> Where do you find food grade trash cans 

You can see that Frank used a 'Brute' trash can from the photos. Those are a Rubbermaid product, and available at the typical big box stores.

Here is a NSF listing for Brute trash cans used as food equipment: 
http://info.nsf.org/Certified/Food/...Country=&PlantRegion=&Standard=&search=Search

The NSF does not call them 'Trash Cans'. Instead they are "ROUND BRUTE® CONTAINERS"


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

Awesome thanks!


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## ScienceGirl (Oct 24, 2014)

How do you prevent any splinters from the wood getting into the honey?
Have you noticed any wood particles in the honey?

(Spraying the wood pieces down prior to extraction may prevent wood particles coming free during extraction.)


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

Frank 
I'm glad you posted. I was just looking at the beesource plans today. 
I may need to make one so I can store it with my homemade chicken plucker.
Thanks for the picks.
gww


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

Frank
Do you turn one way and then flip the comb or can you just rotate the oposite direction and get the same results as fliping the comb?
Thanks
gww


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Frank used a _radial _extractor design, so there is no reason to flip the comb/frames.

It is extractors with _tangential _frame orientation that require flipping the frames.








photo credit

Bees build comb so that there is about a 15 degree "up" tilt to the cell openings. If you put the frame in the _radial _extractor correctly (with the top bar next to the drum wall)then that 15 degree tilt orients the cells correctly to allow the honey to flow out when the extractor spins.

Some _interesting_ discussion on this topic in this thread: 
http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...-FOUNDATIONLESS-and-WIRELESS-FRAMES&p=1151249


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

Rader
Thanks for the picture to put with the words. It was your post in a differrent thread that led me to look up the bee source plan again. so thanks for that also. I had always wondered why you had to flip the frame when I had read poeple doing it. It took your little illistrations to put it in perspective fopr me.
Thanks
gww


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Nice work! Thanks for sharing......ingenuity at its finest........


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

Science girl there should be no reason for wood particles. All of the pieces were cut cleanly. Where do you see the possibility of that happening?


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## ccar2000 (Aug 9, 2009)

ScienceGirl said:


> How do you prevent any splinters from the wood getting into the honey?
> Have you noticed any wood particles in the honey?
> 
> (Spraying the wood pieces down prior to extraction may prevent wood particles coming free during extraction.)


Cheesecloth strainer could take care of that if it is of concern.


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

Maybe seal the wood by dipping in melted beewax. Gently warm in oven to melt off the excess.


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## plcnut (Mar 8, 2013)

Obviously the wooden frames are not a problem for splinters. Why would a wooden part in the extractor be any worse?

Nice piece of workmanship and ingenuity!


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## AkDan (Apr 13, 2012)

Thanks! Ill get on this after vacation!


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

Thanks everyone for the positive feedback. It really worked well last season. Cleaned up easily and totally held together ready for this season. This year the only improvements I plan to make are locking the bottom assembly and nuts into place onto the threaded rod. They nuts did creep up a bit. And also make a clear cover for the top so I can watch the progress of the extraction. 

If I can answer any questions please let me know.


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

Here it is in action last season. I might look into a way to stabilize the whole unit better but the wobbling stopped once the frames were spun the first minute and equalized.

http://youtu.be/R2DYqRJXFYU


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## BeeAttitudes (Dec 6, 2014)

Very nice!


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## Cindy Lee (Jun 1, 2017)

This is a really great design but apparently I am missing something. How are the shorter cross pieces attached to the long cross piece that hold the frames? Is there a joint at this hunction or something under the shorter pieces that keep them in place?


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

I'm guessing it's a lap joint.


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## Cindy Lee (Jun 1, 2017)

Barry, thanks for the info...
Have a happy day 
Cindy Lee


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

Hi Frank,
May I suggest a stainless steel bushing sleeve in the top horizontal board that the all-thread shaft goes through... very nice work, and thanks for sharing!


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## John T (Jun 11, 2016)

Good Job It looks great...


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## tazke (Mar 23, 2015)

FYI: brute changed their trash can design / mold awhile back. I ordered 3 20gl from amz last year, yellow, got one old style, two new style. New style are much thinner made. They are the same part number. 
If you are near a tractor supply they still have a few of the old style clear ones in their supply chain.


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## Cindy Lee (Jun 1, 2017)

I understand the function of the cutting board or bottom bearing which is a wonderful design. I am in the process of constructing one of these extractors and am concerned about the size of the hole you drilled into the top cutting board section/bottom bearing. I do not want to make the hole too large so that the rod will wobble and increase the size of the hole over time or too tight so that it would cause excessive tension on the motor. So can you provide me with some insight into the size of the hole you drilled in the bearing for your extractor?


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## FlowerPlanter (Aug 3, 2011)

Good job!

I like how simple it is, anyone with a little wood working skill should be able to make.


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## mhorowit (Sep 25, 2011)

Clean u


frankthomas said:


> I started with a 32 gallon foodsafe Rubbermaid Brute container, a 42" 3/8 all thread rod and stainless steel nuts washers wing nut and acorn nut. I used 1x 3 pine to fabricate the frame holders.
> View attachment 13005
> View attachment 13015
> 
> ...


How do you clean out old honey from around the bottom assembly? - Mike


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## mhorowit (Sep 25, 2011)

Can someone help me with my apparent poor logic? A deep frame is 9 1/2" tall. To hold two frames in line you need a frame holder 19" + room for the spindle + room to close the 'horn hole", so I figure the board will be close to 21" long. Can you tell me what you ended up with? Reason I'm asking is the ID of the 32 gallon Brute container is less than 21". Thanks in advance, Mike


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

I didn't see anywhere that Frank said his extractor was designed for deep frames. Typically frames/supers intended for honey extraction are 'medium' frames. Keep in mind that honey is _heavy_, using mediums lightens the lifting somewhat.


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## mhorowit (Sep 25, 2011)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> I didn't see anywhere that Frank said his extractor was designed for deep frames. Typically frames/supers intended for honey extraction are 'medium' frames. Keep in mind that honey is _heavy_, using mediums lightens the lifting somewhat.


Thanks for the reply; I'm trying to build up using nucs, hence the deeps - Mike


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## stevewide48 (Nov 11, 2021)

mhorowit said:


> Thanks for the reply; I'm trying to build up using nucs, hence the deeps - Mike


Me too. I haven't yet found a barrel that is 24" diameter. I saw utube where someone built a wooden barrel... Complicated...


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## William Bagwell (Sep 4, 2019)

Salvage drums are 25 3/4" inside. Very expensive new, so you might be better off just buying an extractor.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

The 20 frame extractor (Post #14) in the _Build It Yourself Plans_ thread has a 24" reel:








Build It Yourself - Equipment Plans in PDF format


This post is a Table of Contents for this Plans PDF thread. To review/download the desired plan, scroll down the thread til you find the Post # shown in the Table of Contents below. Note that each plan has a thumbnail image at the beginning of the post, but the actual PDF file is at the end of...




www.beesource.com


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## stevewide48 (Nov 11, 2021)

Thank you. Will look for one


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## stevewide48 (Nov 11, 2021)

Just wh


Rader Sidetrack said:


> The 20 frame extractor (Post #14) in the _Build It Yourself Plans_ thread has a 24" reel:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


IJust what I was looking for. Thanks


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## stevewide48 (Nov 11, 2021)

Where and how do you use wind nuts? Not mentioned in first post. Thanks. Great design.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

stevewide48 said:


> Where and how do you use wind nuts? Not mentioned in first post. Thanks. Great design.


The "wing nuts" are visible in several of the photos, on the threaded rod used as the axle of the reel (the assembly that holds the frames).


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## thill (Nov 30, 2020)

I like your use of a chrome acorn nut as a bearing. On a poly cutting board with some grease... That thing should spin forever.


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## A Novice (Sep 15, 2019)

I just picked up a food grade 55 gallon blue plastic barrel. It was $15 from a local plastic recycler. Craigslist.
It was previously used for red wine vinegar, and appears to have a couple of quarts still sloshing around in the bottom.

Am planning to build something over the winter. Not sure on the reel design. This one is very clever, though.


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