# Need some ideas for hive platform(s)



## Maryland Beekeeper (Nov 1, 2012)

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?248434-beekeeper-beginner-from-Slovenia


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## bosco500 (Sep 27, 2012)

Maryland Beekeeper said:


> http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?248434-beekeeper-beginner-from-Slovenia


Wow those are some cool houses


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## RAFAEL/PR (Feb 23, 2012)

maryland beekeeper said:


> http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?248434-beekeeper-beginner-from-slovenia


holy cow!! That a bee loft!! Like my pigeon loft ,lol that is so cool never thought of that, that is great for your bees because it will be warmer inside there got the winter in one of those , great idea


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## fin (Jun 3, 2012)

Recently someone here showed a hive stand made to keep ants out. Search Ant proof stand and you might find it. my description from memory-Metal pipe with one end in the ground and the other with more pipe joined to make a "T". this supports a wood frame. 
I am using cinder blocks and wooden single hive stands


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Buy 1- 2x4x10' pt
From that, cut two pieces 4' and two pieces 1'
Nail the 1' pieces between the 4' pieces, 1' from each end. 

Holds two hives.


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## bosco500 (Sep 27, 2012)

Michael Palmer said:


> Buy 1- 2x4x10' pt
> From that, cut two pieces 4' and two pieces 1'
> Nail the 1' pieces between the 4' pieces, 1' from each end.
> 
> Holds two hives.


Thanks for the idea. That sounds similar to this one I just found:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLDavYxX6R4

Love the idea, will just make it a bit longer


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## giant pumpkin peep (Mar 14, 2009)

Ive found using an 8 foot 2by3 can get a little tight if both hives arnt right on the edge. I think for now on I'm going to use 10 foot. micheals sugestion works. I also have some really old planks laying around. I made 2 stacks of 2 cinderblocks and laid one of the planks across. It is holding a few nucs now. Don't know if I want to put full size hives on there.


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

I am all about repurposing things. This spring I'm going to use some old 4 x 4 treated posts and a 4' x 4' heavy duty oak skid. It will be more like a table when finished. I plan on putting 4 hives on it each one 90 degrees from the other. I think it will serve it's intended purpose in a few of my out yards that no one sees.
At the home though, I have a 2x6 frame painted white and treated 4x4 posts buried into the ground.


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## RAFAEL/PR (Feb 23, 2012)

THE BEST STAND FOR HIVE I SEEN YET AND ARE SIMPLE TO MAKE ARE THE ONES USING* concrete blocks* WITH REBARS LIKE THIS PHOTO FROM ONE OUR MEMBER TOM IN SOUTH AMERICA 







PUT SOME GREASE ON THE BARS AND YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANT PROBLEM OR SOME INSECT PROBLEM THAT CANNOT FLY


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## garusher (May 28, 2012)

Hi,

Try this one out.






.
for the 10' platform I used 4 @ 2"x10" and 1 @ 4"x4". I have a sketchup file if you would like to pull dimensions. I would also like to add some type of wrap to the 4x4 that i can fill with grease like other platforms.

Gary


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## NW_Mark (Jan 23, 2012)

Check out warehouse pallet racking on craigs list. The uprights are around $5 per foot and the stringers are around $3 per foot. So 2 x 6’ uprights ($60) and 4 x 12’ stringers ($142) should put you back about $202. You then can put a tin roof on it if you want to keep the rain off the hives. Hives can be strapped down and the system can be moved anytime you want.


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## jrbbees (Apr 4, 2010)

i found 8 foot pressure treated lanscaping timbers on sale at lowes for $1.99.
Ste the on cinder blocks and they work well and the price is right.


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## mmiller (Jun 17, 2010)

jrbbees said:


> i found 8 foot pressure treated lanscaping timbers on sale at lowes for $1.99.
> Ste the on cinder blocks and they work well and the price is right.


Exactly what I do. Easy to set up, easy to move and cheap!


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## bosco500 (Sep 27, 2012)

Some great ideas thanks!


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## vanderchevy18 (Dec 4, 2012)

Never used stands. Just built good quality, beefy floors out of redwood from old oil tanks. Never had a problem. Of course we were running 2,500 hives so it wouldn't have been cost effective anyway. Keep the weeds knocked down in front of the hive and make sure its a strong healthy hive. No problems.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

I am a small hobby guy that had the same question. I did like Mike said but with 2x8. I used a couple of strong ties and concrete blocks because I could not afford to have everything I own go to the ground saving a buck. Yes I did put one hive facing the side of the other, it allows me a place to work, I did not find robbing any issue, it also did not drift to the next hive over. I could have got 5 side by side but I got too close to the house so I didn’t. 
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n599/6minz/stand2.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n599/6minz/stand1.jpg


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

I have a real hate of saggy benches. This spring my husband helped me set some 6x6 pressure treated scrap posts left over from a job into concrete. (I would use full height posts on the next one so I could cover the hives if I wanted to ) But they were free and free is always good.

Here are the posts and the lag screwed 2x8 supporting horizontal boards. No sagging in the middle of the bench is allowed ether.










My framework for the mesh bench top.










Top installed. This is a salvaged product..looks like steel, but in fact it is fiberglass. We cut it on the table saw from a 4x8'sheet. If I did not have this, I would have used welded galvanized 1"x1" cage wire.




















Strong and level. Here come 'da bees!










Your bench height is pretty importaint. You can see in the above photo I backfilled with shavings to keep the bench height low enough to be able to work three or four high without too much trouble. 

A little later in the summer. This is a south facing bench.










Think it is over built? It holds 20 hives. Now do the math for fall weight for that many double deeps. 

Here is a bench I built in 2011 out of steel pipe. The horizontal pipe support was not strong enough to hold the fall weight, however. It sagged and it had to be rebuilt. But you can see the design:
The brackets you see here were salvage from a commercial store we demo'd years ago. I saved them for a long time until I figured out a use for them. Yes, I am a wood and steel pack rat. You'd be amazed at what they throw away on commercial job sites.










I was alone when I made this and had to scratch my head trying to figure out how to put a 'bow' in the cattle panned roof. Rachett straps! Of course! The beekeepers friend. Just use strong zipties to hold the pannel to the pipe.









(The 2x4 gray supports were just to keep the bench from rocking to much.)










Now the concrete cinder blocks were insurance the brackets would hold all that weight









I forgot to tighten all the carrage bolts in one of the brackets..then it slipped during the winter..No harm done, but you can see the roof works pretty good otherwise. 









Heres my first bench. I built the framework to hold a steel table top I already had. I built this in the barn, then asked my husbant to help me carry it out to the beeyard. Almost got in trouble for that one. It was quite heavy, even without the table on top.










I really love this bench, I just expanded to much to keep using this design.

Below is a stand I used the rabbit wire on for the top.









My area is very rainy..we need good drainage.

Heres the hive that sits on it. Too fancy for my yard..these I make to sell occasionally.










Hope this gives you some ideas. Better to spend a dollar more and take a little more time making it..or you'll be doing it over again in a few years.


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## bosco500 (Sep 27, 2012)

Lauri said:


> I have a real hate of a saggy bench. This spring my husband helped me set some 6x6 pressure treated scrap posts left over from a job into concrete. (I would use full height posts on the next one so I could cover the hives if I wanted to )
> Here are the posts and the lag screwed 2x8 supporting horizontal boards. No sagging in the middle of the bench is allowed ether.
> 
> 
> ...


Wow great job! That looks awesome.


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## whiskers (Aug 28, 2011)

Well doggone Lauri that's really nice, and here I was going to suggest looking in the culls at Home Depot or Lowes, mine usually has 4 foot pieces of pressure treated 2X4. You could lay a couple of them across a couple of cinder blocks to support 2 hives with some extra space. You could add legs that you bury in the ground and eliminate the blocks. They cost $.57 here so a stand would have less than $3.00 in it allowing something for fasteners.
Bill


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Plastic pallets are inexpensive, have ample room for two hives side by side, extend well in front of the hive to keep down weeds, are low to the ground so that a tall hive does not get to tall, and last a long time. They will fit four turned facing different directions.


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## libhart (Apr 22, 2010)

As you said, 4x4 and 2x6. This is similar to Lauri's except mine just sits on the ground. Here's the sketchup drawing, I can send you the file if you're a sketchup fan and want to monkey w/the dimensions. I really need to find some of that fiberglass decking that Lauri has.

http://bees.libhart.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/8ft_HiveStand.jpg


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Here is a link. 
http://www.directmetals.com/dm/fiberglass_grating.asp

It is industrial flooring. Also meant for outdoor use when filled with pea gravel or sand.

Mine came from a scrap yard. Some of the sheets had a tiny bit of damage I easily cut away.


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## libhart (Apr 22, 2010)

Thanks for the link. I'll need to find it that way too...looks like it's crazy expensive for a panel.


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## bosco500 (Sep 27, 2012)

Can I use two rows front to back or is that not a good idea? If so what should the minimum spacing be front to back?


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## bosco500 (Sep 27, 2012)

Thanks for the ideas guys and gals. Here is what we wound up doing, most was done with leftover scrap materials. Turned out well, the bees have a great view  Going to build another next to it


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

I'm clapping my hands Great job-looks nice!
Very nice spot too.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

I think your order was off. You should have been building a duck blind! I would love to get my hands on a little piece of property with a duck/ fish pond.


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## mtndewluvr (Oct 28, 2012)

Wow...excellent job & location! Thanks for all the pics!


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

bosco500 said:


> Thanks for the idea. That sounds similar to this one I just found:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLDavYxX6R4
> 
> Love the idea, will just make it a bit longer


I prefer 2X6 Dbl H Hive stands.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Nice Lauri, but I like working hives from the side, not the back or front or corner.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Here's an inexpensive ant proof hive stand that has a few more components but will definitely keep the ants away.

Use 1.5" dowels and screw mount PVC 2" end caps then drill hole for dowel. Fill end caps with High Temp Bearing Grease








Insert dowel into hive stand legs.








Repeat.








Drill pilot holes and screw on top hive rest joist.








For more details and another design, here's my previous thread:
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?271115-My-Ant-Proof-Hive-Stand-Actually-Works!


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

I wonder if Charlie goes to as much time and expense to keep the ants out of the apartments he manages below his rooftop apiary as he does to keep them out of his bee hives?


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## bosco500 (Sep 27, 2012)

Thanks guys, the bees should like the location


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## dixie1 (Jun 27, 2010)

The first year I was able to buy most of the stock of a Beekeeper getting out of the business....he sold me a couple of stands that were perfect for this....he used cross ties from old telephone poles that were torn down and replaced with new ones....the power company was dumping the cross ties in a dumpster and getting rid of them....the ties are about 7 to 8 feet long...nail or screw a couple of 2 x 6's to the ends and a couple of 1 x 8's across the stand as braces, and they're ready to go. You could use 4 x 4 posts, but they end up weighing too much for me to deal with....the old cross ties are much lighter. I then lay down four concrete building blocks as a base and to get the entire unit off the ground, then stack 3 hives on each.....one of the good things about this system is when you have to start pulling supers off to extract. the base is so strong you can just stand on the platform that the stand provides and they supers are much easier to handle. I'll try to locate a pic I can post so you can get a better idea. 

dixie


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## EarleB (Jul 5, 2010)

I love this idea wished you had more details and better pictures. oops wished I know how to delete this post


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## EarleB (Jul 5, 2010)

RAFAEL/PR said:


> THE BEST STAND FOR HIVE I SEEN YET AND ARE SIMPLE TO MAKE ARE THE ONES USING* concrete blocks* WITH REBARS LIKE THIS PHOTO FROM ONE OUR MEMBER TOM IN SOUTH AMERICA
> View attachment 3628
> 
> PUT SOME GREASE ON THE BARS AND YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANT PROBLEM OR SOME INSECT PROBLEM THAT CANNOT FLY


 I love this idea wished you had more details and better pics


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## Belewsboy (Jun 6, 2012)

I made 2 sets of these for my hives. There is enough room between the hives to stack supers during an inspection. I embellished a little since these are in my front yard. 4 x 4's and 2 x 6's.


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## RAFAEL/PR (Feb 23, 2012)

EarleB said:


> I love this idea wished you had more details and better pics


 this is better a drawing of it 


http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...1111378922185.13308.1758242520&type=1&theater


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Belewsboy said:


> View attachment 3663
> I made 2 sets of these for my hives. There is enough room between the hives to stack supers during an inspection. I embellished a little since these are in my front yard. 4 x 4's and 2 x 6's.


I love these. Sometimes white seems like it would be plain, until you see how clean it looks. Nice job


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## EarleB (Jul 5, 2010)

Thx very much for your effort however I didn't get to see the pic. Could you post a copy at the forum?




RAFAEL/PR said:


> this is better a drawing of it
> 
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...1111378922185.13308.1758242520&type=1&theater


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## Creekside (Dec 29, 2011)

Here is one of the stands I have been using the last couple years. All you need is a couple of 2 x 10 or 12's and four concrete post holders(4x4). Once all together it is very solid and can be moved fairly easily. If you have bottom entrances it gets it up high enough that skunks should not be a problem!


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## DamSutt1986 (May 26, 2012)

+1 for stacking cinder blocks and running 4x4s between them.


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## throrope (Dec 18, 2008)

jrbbees said:


> i found 8 foot pressure treated lanscaping timbers on sale at lowes for $1.99.
> Ste the on cinder blocks and they work well and the price is right.


I use these same landscape timbers, but cut them to just more than the length and width of the hive. Stacking two widths between four lengths like Lincoln logs and screwing them together makes individual stands that level with a shovel and relocate easily. Three timbers makes two stands that look nice and last near forever.


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