# Plans for 6 Frame NUC



## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

Had problems with other NUCs I was using, so here's my protype.

Storing extracted frames in it, hence the two drone comb frames, so please don't jump all over me!!!!!!!!!!!.





















1/2 inch plywood throughout. Outside dimensions are 20 1/8 long, 9 13/16 wide and 11 tall.

Wall to wall inside is 8 3/4. Used a 1/2 inch full size plywood(less 1/2 for bottom entrance on front) to create the rails and top with a metal ledge. Had to try out the new metal brake!!

Rail is down 11/16 so don't roll any bees when slide inner cover back on.

Entrance reducer is two sided, reversalble. Either open or can be fully closed.

Lip on outer cover is 2 inch deep and doesn't slide off easily. Outer cover lip is just above hand rails on ends, so can easily grasp top of outer cover with thumb and carrying rail with fingers when moving.

Bottom entrance is 1/2 high.


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## JStinson (Mar 30, 2013)

Looks pretty slick. What's your reasoning behind using 6 frames?


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

My preference and I know 4 and 5's are the norm.

1. If I do a 4 or a 5, it is not long at all until it needs to be moved into a 10.

2. Not as big a transition to a 10 frame deep, as initially now only four new frames. Bees population better fits size of cavity.

3. Gives me flexibility to add further frames of brood from a strong hive over time to NUC and when NUC is ready for a super, it is off to a strong start.

I know the design is not earth shattering concepts but the concepts can be incorporated into 4 and 5 frame NUCs.


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## JWChesnut (Jul 31, 2013)

My preference is for Ply sides (and scrap will do) and have solid wood for front and back.
I use 1x8 (net 7.5") fence boards, but any solid wood will do.
Reason: 
1) dimensions front to back are exactly the same as Lang and there are no special extensions or laps- Migratory Tops and bottoms are interchaneable.
2) Two 5-frame nucs can be sistered up on single bottom board.
3) Screws hold better into solid end grain than splitting and separating endgrain ply.
4) Fewer pieces -- 2 sides, 2 fronts, 2 tops, 4 2x2 blocks to reinforce migratory top.
5. Tie everything up with a piece of clothesline -- Box holds tight, but opens up without unscrewing pieces.

I build migratory style tops, which also function as bottoms. No special design change. Entrance is a drilled hole. Hole is at the shoulder of the frames, and slightly off center so the hole lines up with frame to frame gap. The hole is easier to definitively screen when you want to move the nuc.


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## pom51 (Jul 28, 2008)

I have been using 6 frame nuce for about six years.if you split them up you can split into two eight frame hives or split them into another nuce .with a good queen fast yard build up for bees works good for me


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## Kenww (Apr 14, 2013)

A six frame medium seems like a good idea for those of us usinig all mediums. Or is that still too small?


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## JStinson (Mar 30, 2013)

Kenww said:


> A six frame medium seems like a good idea for those of us usinig all mediums. Or is that still too small?


FWIW, I use 5 frame medium nucs. That's not to say that I won't experiment with larger ones in the future, because they are kinda puny. 

Michael Bush uses 5 frame mediums for mating nucs. He also says that 8 frame medium nucs are the same as a 5 frame deep nuc. 

Honestly, I have to wonder if just making up a ton of 10 frame medium hives and calling them your nucs would completely suffice. Stack on supers when you need them, and blamo, full size hive made. Simplifies the variety of equipment you'd have to have on hand.


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## marshmasterpat (Jun 26, 2013)

Chesnut - That wood looks to be more like 5/8 or 1/2 inch thick. Is that enough insulation for you, thinking since your in California, you may be like Texas or Florida and worrying more about heat insulation versus cold temperatures. Fence wood for a 5 frame, and think I saw that on sale not long ago. 

JStinson and mgolden - yea I was thinking that since I have only medium frames, it would be alittle more room than a standard 5 frame. 

I know that this gear is not standard, but it will be for my yard .... or the burnpile. LOL


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## marshmasterpat (Jun 26, 2013)

mgolden - I like that, my carpenter opps are going to look something like that. Meant to put that on the last post.


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## JWChesnut (Jul 31, 2013)

Ends are "11/16" rough cut Redwood. The local "fenceboard" loss leader at the lumber yard. You are seeing the rabbet which leave 3/8". I cheat just a bit on Length overall (a weak 19 and 7/8) so the rabbet is tight. 

It's a Nuc. Fast, dirty, interchangeable and disposable. Made for spring and summer splits. 

All parts cut the same, no extra cuts, and all parts interchangeable is the watchword.

I use the same design for swarm traps though, stacked 2 high.


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