# Newbe, planning a hive build



## bruiseandy (Dec 28, 2014)

First I'd suggest picking up all that lumber and seeing if you want to haul it around. Built mine out of 1x10 and one person can easily manage it. My bottom was sized at 5 inches as it was a conveinent size to do that black plastic gutter screening i already had on hand. Wider would be nice IMO as youd get more area with the same length hive but I am new to this as well.


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## barleynbaccy (Dec 18, 2014)

I built mine with 1X10's also and just beveled the corners on the bottom board. So I guess that's 9 1/2. I just used the simple Les Crowder plans that are floating around the internet. You maybe able to do the same thing, but like bruiseandy im still new.


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## Bsmith7773 (Jan 11, 2015)

My thinking behind using the 2 x 12's was lumber thickness, better insulation for the winter time. New England winters can get cold. Wait is not a big deal for me. The cost was. A 2 x 12 cost less than a 1x12


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

I kept bees through several upstate New York winters, in temps as low as -24.
I cut my hives from 1 x 12" lumber.
I only wrapped or insulated them one winter.

They thrived, and I made increase in hive numbers every year.

You really don't need the added insulation value as much as you need to locate your hive(s) properly, where they can get sun early in the day (full sun all day is better in the Northeast ) and are sheltered from high winds.

1x 12 transmits heat faster when the sun hits it on the few days warm enough for your bees to get out and poop.
By the time they feel the difference through a 2 by, you won't have as many getting out to void their gut.

You might seriously consider paying the difference and using the thinner lumber _*because*_ Northeastern winters are so long and cold!


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## dudelt (Mar 18, 2013)

The length of the bottom is not much of an issue, the length of the top bars is an issue. Depending on the angle you set the sides at will determine how long the top bars will be. If the bottom is 7 inches and the sides go out at 60 degrees from the bottom, the top bars will need to be about 19.5 inches (see plans at http://mistressbeek.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/beeks-tbh-drwgs-oct-012.pdf). If the bottom is 10 inches, the top bars would be 22.5 inches, which I believe would be too long. Unless of course you change the angle the sides are at. Top bars that are too long creates comb issues you will want to avoid. When bees are making long honey combs, they tend to curl them to increase the strength of the comb and that will attach it to more than one of the top bars.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

I built one for the brother in law. I would recommend going to Mike Bush’s site and looking at his plans. It would have saved me a bunch of time since I was not used to the construction on TBH.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm


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## Jon Wolff (Apr 28, 2013)

You do want that 120 degree slope, and all my hives are 1"x12"'s. Other than that, bar length is up to you. I've tried 17 1/2" and 20". To get the proper slope for the shorter bars, the combs really narrow at the bottom. I tried walls with less slope (110) and ended up with a lot of comb attachment. Longer bars do encourage curving of the combs at the end, but if you have good guides, straighten any tendency to curve, use a follower board, and consistently put empty bars between straight combs, you will end up with good, straight comb even with long bars.


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## Bsmith7773 (Jan 11, 2015)

Beregondo,
understood. Makes sense when you explain it that way. 

Now can I move the location of them from summer and winter.. I have a spot in the yard for summer that is out of sight so that will make them out of mind for my two young boys. It will get about 6+/- hours of sun facing south. And the winter stop will allow it to have full all day sun but will be seen in open. ( kids don't play much in the winter time outside) 
The spots themselves are about 50ft apart.


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## Bsmith7773 (Jan 11, 2015)

Thanks Jon, 
That will take all the guess work out of what angle to use. good to know about the bar length..


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## Bsmith7773 (Jan 11, 2015)

minz said:


> I built one for the brother in law. I would recommend going to Mike Bush’s site and looking at his plans. It would have saved me a bunch of time since I was not used to the construction on TBH.
> http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm


Minz. I do like the plans just don't like that there only 15inch bars. I feel its not enough space overall to prevent swarming from overcrowding. 
Has this ever been a problem with 4 foot long and 15 inch wide hives.


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## Bsmith7773 (Jan 11, 2015)

dudelt said:


> The length of the bottom is not much of an issue, the length of the top bars is an issue. Depending on the angle you set the sides at will determine how long the top bars will be. If the bottom is 7 inches and the sides go out at 60 degrees from the bottom, the top bars will need to be about 19.5 inches (see plans at http://mistressbeek.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/beeks-tbh-drwgs-oct-012.pdf). If the bottom is 10 inches, the top bars would be 22.5 inches, which I believe would be too long. Unless of course you change the angle the sides are at. Top bars that are too long creates comb issues you will want to avoid. When bees are making long honey combs, they tend to curl them to increase the strength of the comb and that will attach it to more than one of the top bars.


dudelt,
I seen these plans before and like them. A 7 inch wide bottom board seems wide enough to get a gallon size feeder in the hive for over wintering food source


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## Jon Wolff (Apr 28, 2013)

I'm sure you picked up on it, but to avoid confusion, the degrees I used (110 and 120) are for the obtuse angle of the wall to the inside of the hive floor rather than the acute angle of the outside of the wall to top of the bench as shown in the PDF. It's all the same in the end, though.


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## Jon Wolff (Apr 28, 2013)

I do want to mention that I got perfect comb on 17 1/2" bars without any interference by me, but I had to watch the longer bars carefully and constantly correct curves. But longer bars give more surface for comb attachment, which in my opinion is a good thing in our hot Georgia summers.


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## Bsmith7773 (Jan 11, 2015)

Jon Wolff said:


> I do want to mention that I got perfect comb on 17 1/2" bars without any interference by me, but I had to watch the longer bars carefully and constantly correct curves. But longer bars give more surface for comb attachment, which in my opinion is a good thing in our hot Georgia summers.



I know all about George's hot summers. Lived for number of years in Kingsbay. Always hated that Papermill in that town. Thanks again for all the information. I start my build at the end of the month.just trying to make a complete material list for two hives. local glass company is making 3/8 inch glass for me for the hive as well instead of using Paluxy for the window about $25 for each piece.


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## bruiseandy (Dec 28, 2014)

Just a quick tip, local sign shops will have much cheaper plexi scraps. Got mine for $2, they usually sell scrap cut offs by the pound and might only charge a couple bucks to cut em.


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## reminniear (Apr 7, 2014)

You mentioned that you ordered Wyatt Mangum's book. I think that's a great choice!
I live in Bucyrus, KS which is USDA Zone 6a. It looks like you are also in USDA Zone 6a.
I followed Wyatt's instructions from his book on building a hive, it seems to be holding up well and did great during last years really rough winter. I took out a stethoscope last weekend and was able to hear bees in my hives. 
Per Wyatt's instructions, the hives are made with 1x lumber.

I can't say enough good things about Dr Mangum's book, lots of great information on tbh's.


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## Jon Wolff (Apr 28, 2013)

I, too, have Mangum's book and frequently go through it. Highly recommend it.
I got a lot of scrap plexiglass and glass for free last time I was at Lowe's and was able to get two observation windows out of it. They had it in a big barrel in the glass cutting area so I asked if I could have it.


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## Bsmith7773 (Jan 11, 2015)

Jon Wolff, wasn't really sure about the life span of the plexiglass, When I build something I just do it once. that was my theory.. have you are anyone else have had luck with plexi glass not aging out or scratching up from removing comb attached from it. 


reminniear, yes cant wait to spend some cold days this winter with my face in that book.. Just read Natural Beekeeping by Ross Conrad. My local library had it and lots other that will check out next. But most to do with Lang hives. 


bruiseandy, Thanks, my uncle owns a sign company.. Again just not sure on the Longevity of it. if someone out there has had a tbh with a plexi glass window that has lasted over time let me know.. 

Just trying to eliminate as much as I can " I wish I did different " to the hive 

Thank you all for your replys and help in my near future Build..


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## JakeDatc (Apr 19, 2010)

The plexiglass in ours is fine except it warped a bit in the sun and created a opening that the bees loooove to use haha. If you use plexi then make the inset twice as deep so you can put a 1/4" rim around it in the inside to really lock it down. i used just caulking and it wasn't strong enough when it warped. 

I think 2x12 would be a problem.. one of the guys on here from Canada or Alaska is doing them that way. Ours is 3/4" cedar and haven't had a problem at my GF's in near hartford,CT


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## Jon Wolff (Apr 28, 2013)

Bsmith, I inset the plexiglass to be flush with the wall and then just use small finishing nails to hold it in place, no caulking. The bees propolise the edges of the windows and seal it themselves. After a couple of years, I like to rehive my colonies, remove the plexiglass to clean it, fix up the hive (repaint, fix cracks or knotholes, etc), and then put a new colony in it. Wax and propolis on the plastic can often be removed by freezing it first, after which they become brittle and easily pop off (usually). However, I don't think I'll have a problem in the future with combs being attached to the walls/windows since this spring my hives will all have the 120 degree slopes. I experimented with 110 to get wider overall combs, but unlike my hives with 120, they were tedious to inspect and they messed up the windows with attachments.


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