# Best hive-top feeder?



## PappyMAINEiac (Sep 23, 2006)

I'm just trying to avoid the pitfalls!!! I have seen threads about some hive-top feeders that were poorly designed and I would like to avoid them. I have searched for the topic, but the forums search engine doesn't return anything specific enough.
What are the BEST hive-top feeder designs out there, ie. no burr combing, drowning, ease-of-use???
I am talking about the wooden Miller type feeders that set above top hive body.


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## ShaneVBS (Aug 22, 2011)

Ive had good luck with brushy mountain plastic ones. I like them because there cheap and you can fill them with bees trapped below. All you have to do is sand walls were bees walk to get syrup for more grip, although the newer models are better. The wooden are nice too as they have improved floats so they dont sink but cost more.


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## gibby937 (May 16, 2011)

This is my first year so my experience is limited. I bought 2 of the brushy mountain top feeders with the floats. I thought they were pretty neat at first but have decided against them. The floats did float well but still drowned several bees. Also, when you opened the top to check and refill, the bees had easy access to you. The bottom is completely flat so if you remove it to do an inspection and still have sugar water in it and do not want to pour it out by placing it on a flat surface (top of hive next door) many bees will be crushed. I also ordered to other top feeders from Rossman for the same price. It was a wooden super with a plastic insert with the screen in the middle. I like that one much better. It held more feed and kept the bees away from you. They did build burr comb in the center, but after accidentally killing the queen while removing the burr comb, I just leave it now until the feeder is completely removed. The surface area on the bottom that would crush the bees is just the with of the box all the way around instead of the entire area. Hope this helps!


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## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

My local newbeek friend bought the Mann lake, black, double basin, bees enter through screening in the middle to come up topside for a drink (you have to cut the hole). I called him last night to see how he liked it - and he hasn't put it on yet. Before I buy ONE more bee, I need a feeder that won't leak due to temperature changes, and won't drown bees. Has anyone tried this one?

Gypsi


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## 93coleman (Oct 2, 2011)

I have a plastic one that I bought from walter kelley that works great.It has a hole that they come up from the hive in,and they line up like a bunch of cattle,perfectly straight.Never had a single drowned bee,temp doesnt affect it.Bees dont come out when you feed,holds about a gallon.Love mine,def reccomend it.Walter kelley stock number cat#12s


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## squarepeg (Jul 9, 2010)

i also have several of the kelley "volcano" type feeders. i get a few drowned bees, but i minimize that by floating 3/8" wooden balls sealed with silicone inside the inverted plastic cup. i also have several of the mann lake ones mentioned above, still a few drowned bees, but not many. both are easy to check and fill without disturbing the bees. i haven't decided it either is better than the other yet.


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## Michael B (Feb 6, 2010)

Gypsi said:


> My local newbeek friend bought the Mann lake, black, double basin, bees enter through screening in the middle to come up topside for a drink (you have to cut the hole). I called him last night to see how he liked it - and he hasn't put it on yet. Before I buy ONE more bee, I need a feeder that won't leak due to temperature changes, and won't drown bees. Has anyone tried this one?
> 
> Gypsi


Is this the ine you are talking about?

http://www.mannlakeltd.com/ProductDetail.asp?idproduct=487&idCategory=

If so I have a few of them and no need to cut a hole.

My opinion they are decent if the weather is warm (70-80°) colder than that and they will ignore the syrup because it is too cold. Burr comb is always a problem with there is a violation of bee space. Bee can drown in this feeder but only a few.

They make great open feeders. I placed 4 of them on a pallet and covered them with outer covers. My hives downed about 4 gallons a day.

When I feed i use my own plastic paint bucket inverted with holes (like collins bee feeder but 1/3 of the cost).

I also like this one for hive top feeding.

http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Large-Plastic-Entrance-Feeder/productinfo/422L/

I can get more syrup down faster with this feeder period. Strong hives will consume 2 qts a day with this feeder surrouded by an empty deep and all upper entrances blocked off the reduce robbing.


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## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

Thanks Michae B - The Mann Lake link is the one my friend bought. With the long-range weather forecast indicating 10 more years of drought, I mainly keep bees for pollination, and I can count on having to feed. Maybe we'll get lucky and the weather forecast will be wrong. 

The inverted home depot bucket feeders leak just a little onto the sticky or hive bottom in hot weather as temp goes up to 100, and that is an invitation for robbing. I did good holding them off for 2 months, but I am not "fighting the good fight" again. I've got to plan better, including how I feed, and how I do not have excited bees at the entrance, so it may well be the Mann Lake that I want. And in cold weather, just a candy board?

Gypsi


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## Risky Beesness (Dec 29, 2010)

In my 1st year, I have tried 3 types of top feeders, the float type, the Mann Lake plastic with the screen, and 5 qt pail feeders. I think I like the latter two best. The pail feeders are simple, cheap, and easiest by far to clean, with zero drowning. I started by setting them on the hole of the inner cover, with a medium box around it. Now I am setting them on two slats on top of the inner cover, so the bees can fight off the ants. The Mann Lake plastic top feeders hold a lot more syrup but are much more difficult to clean, and since the bees are confined by the screen, ants and whatever have free access to the syrup.


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## Maine_Beekeeper (Mar 19, 2006)

Remember all beekeeping is local. 
Miller Style hive top feeders don't work for squat here in Maine. They are great for feeding through a warm dearth (which we don't have here, but basically the entire south does.) Up here, when we feed it is cold at night. The mass of the syrup cools down at night and takes so long in the day to warm up (if at all) that the bees can't metabolize it. It is basically the same as not feeding at all. About the largest volume feeder that works up here is a 1 gallon pail. Bottle feeding via glass quart jars warmed up each morning can extend your feeding into Mid november if you need to. 
Baggie feeders also work great. 
Save your energy on the Miller style feeders. 
Best, 
-Erin


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## PappyMAINEiac (Sep 23, 2006)

Thank you Erin, I am currently using the 1 gallon pails with the screen on them. the problem is that the lids do not have a gasket and I have had several leak all over the top board setting of a robbing frenzy!!! A bit intimidating trying to break it up and fix the problem (even when suited up).
I also want to take you intermediate course this year but I work 2nd shift so im not sure if its going to workout. Again thank you all for your input.


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## Slow Modem (Oct 6, 2011)

Michae B said:


> I can get more syrup down faster with this feeder period. Strong hives will consume 2 qts a day with this feeder surrouded by an empty deep and all upper entrances blocked off the reduce robbing.


The hivetop feeder that I use is from Brushy Mountain

I have an empty medium over it and the inner cover and telescoping cover on top. The medium is per directions for a "better seal". My concern was for adequate ventilation. That's why I put the inner cover on the empty medium. There are a few bees that come in the top, and a few drown. I don't know if they would get enough ventilation without the inner cover. I would appreciate hearing thoughts on the ventilation subject.


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