# Honey B Healthy Recipe



## danno

Not sure what "a cap full" is. Dont feed it straight. The correct rate is a tps per quart.


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## WilliamsHoneyBees

danno said:


> Not sure what "a cap full" is. Dont feed it straight. The correct rate is a tps per quart.


Thanks. Teaspoon per quart?


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## aprici

That looks like the essential oils recipe, it is not clear if it is the same as the product called Honey-B-Healthy. *If* (big IF) it is the same then they indicate 4tsp. (teaspoons, adds up to 20ml) per quart of 1:1 sugar:water mix.

In any case, I don't think there has actually been a study on what concentration to use. Anecdotally it has even been used straight by some beeks.

When I use the essential oils recipe I use 1/8th of a cup per gallon (1/4 cup for my 2 gallon feed bucket). At that concentration it smells great and my bees seem to love it. They detect it from a distance, follow me around when I have the feed bucket, and I have not observed any ill effects. Here is what I observed when I first started trying some essential oils.


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## DeeAnna

1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons 
1 cup = 16 tablespoons

Using a 1/8 cup (2 *Table*spoons) of essential oil mix per gallon of syrup is equivalent to 1 1/2 *tea*spoons per quart of syrup. 

Honey-B-Healthy dosage rates run from 1 teaspoon to 4 teaspoons per quart. See http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/honeyBhlth.htm

--DeeAnna


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## danno

It isn't 4 tsp per quart it is only one. This is the link to the feed rates. These esentual oils are toxic to the bee's at high rates
http://www.rnoel.50megs.com/john/index.html
I use this home made recipe and dont get analitical about it. I mix up syrup and just dump in a splash. It doesn't take very much


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## DC Honeybees

Here is my Homemade HBH recipe and results.

recipe:
http://dchoneybees.blogspot.com/2011/03/test-run-of-homemade-honey-bee-healthy.html

results to date:
http://dchoneybees.blogspot.com/2011/03/jury-still-out-on-homemade-honey-bee.html


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## DeeAnna

"...It isn't 4 tsp per quart it is only one...."

Um, well, I respectfully offer this: I do agree that 1 tsp of Honey B Healthy is the "usual" dosage, but the makers definitely do suggest higher dosages for specific situations. 

If you read down the page you sourced (http://www.rnoel.50megs.com/john/index.html), you will read dosage recomendations of 1 tsp, 2 tsp, and 4 tsp of HBH per quart of syrup, depending on the situation you are dealing with.

This source also states "...Two teaspoonfuls in a quart of 1:1 sugar syrup delivers a total of one cc of both essential oils..." That is a nice tidbit to know for those wanting to use a "homebrew" version of HBH.

The University of West Virginia extension article that I referenced (http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/honeyBhlth.htm) was written by Amrine & Noel, the developers of HBH. This article states:

"We add 1 teaspoonful of HBH (ca 5 ml) to a quart of 1:1 sugar syrup in order to stimulate brood rearing, pollen collection and to initiate early spring development...

"We add 2 teaspoonfuls of HBH (ca 10 ml) to a quart of 1:1 sugar syrup in order to improve the health of the colony, in casees of dysentery, PMS, chalk brood or other ailments....

"We add 4 teaspoonfuls of HBH (ca 20 ml) to a quart of 1:1 sugar syrup when we introduce queens, treat with formic acid or cause other disruptive disturbances to the hive...."

So iin summary, 1 teaspoon of HBH per quart of syrup is the norm, but as much as 4 teaspoons of HBH per quart would be a strong but not lethal dose of HBH.

--DeeAnna


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## aprici

The label indicates 4tsp per quart for drenches and 1tsp per quart for regular feeding. Here is the label for HBH. 

Note that this is probably *not* the exact same recipe as the essential oils recipe, here is some info on someone trying to get closer to the HBH recipe. Not that I recommend the second recipe, just pointing out that we cannot say the essential oils recipe is the same as HBH from anything I've seen.


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## Dodgerdoob

Has anyone tried any other emulsifiers besides lecithin? I saw somewhere that Honey has been used, it just takes longer. Looking up emulsifiers, I saw that honey and egg yolk were two of the most common. Yolks actually contain lecithin. I think I'm going to try to use some other emulsifiers just to see what else is out there.


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## aprici

Hey Dodgerdoob, did you try other emulcifiers? What did you find?


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## Dodgerdoob

Tried honey without much success. Never tried yolk. I've been using lecithin, but not the granules. I got some liquid form for soap making that doesn't incorporate too well. Now I have some capsules from CVS that seem to work really well.


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## DonMcJr

Ok I couldn't find lemongrass oil for nothing but I found lemon oil...

So while searching the differences I found this...

" DIFFERENCES Lemon and lemongrass oils differ in a few ways as well. Lemon oil is used for bug bites, while lemongrass is used to repel insects. Like lemon juice, lemon essential oil is commonly used to overcome common illnesses, although you should see your doctor before using an essential oil. Lemon is used for sore throats, coughs and bronchitis, colds and the flu, as well as digestive concerns like indigestion and gas. Lemongrass is used for sore muscles. Though both types are thought to give you a mental boost, they do so in differing ways. Lemon boosts your mood and mental clarity and helps you feel refreshed, while lemongrass helps to liven your spirits if you have a headache or are stressed. Lemongrass is also used to add shine to hair."

Lemongrass REPELS insects?!

Seems like a bad thing to be giving bees then...

Would lemon oil be ok to use?


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## robherc

DonMcJr said:


> Lemongrass REPELS insects?!
> 
> Seems like a bad thing to be giving bees then...
> 
> Would lemon oil be ok to use?


For most insects, LGO is a repellent...but it contains a chemical (citrolol, I believe) that is the main constituent of the bees' Nasonov pheromone that they use to "mark" locations for other bees to go to...extremely attractive to them.
Geranium essential oil contains geraniol, ingredient #2 in the Nasonov pheromone...also quite attractive
Lemon essential oil contains lemonine (don't hold me to the spelling), the third (and final) ingredient for prepping. artificial Nasonov, so it should be attractive to honeybees, just not as much so as LGO or Geranium oil.

The recipe I have for artificial Nasonov is:
10 drops LGO
5 drops geranium oil
1 drop lemon oil
mix, then use as needed.

That kinda gives you an idea, from the concentrations in the recipe, of how much each is likely to remind them of their "happy" pheromone (more in the recipe = closer smell), so if at all possible, I'd try to get some LGO...or at LEAST geranium oil.

P.S. Here's a link to one place I just found LGO in a google search for you: Organic Lemongrass Essential Oil <--The only caveat with buying essential oils online is that S&H will kill you; best to buy all the essential oils you might possibly need at once, to save on the repeat S&H (pm me if you want a list of all the essential oils I've personally found useful with bees...and their purported effects)


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## JohnBeeMan

I have not been able to find local supply of lecithin granules so have used lecithin gel caplulses. The gel appears to leave a bit of undisoved gel on top but the oils appear to be in solution. I also frequently add a small amount of honey to gel and oil droplets before adding to sryup.

I also read that lecithin is found in brain tissue so maybe this will make my bees smarter.


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## DonMcJr

Very cool thanks for the info!

So for the Honey B Healthy Homemade recipe... Can I subtitute Lemon Oil for the LGO or should I just wait til I get LGO? I get my 1st Bee Package Tomorrow...

John... I got the Granules at GNC Healt Store if you have one near you...


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## robherc

I'd wait until you get the LGO...the different pheromone-ish chemical in the lemon oil prob. wouldn't accomplish what you're wanting IMHO. I'd wait to get the LGO
A few days eating unscented syrup surely won't hurt your bees any, but using the wrong oil in a medication-like context might...just my thoughts there


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## DonMcJr

That's what I was thinking...thanks


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## nater37

Does it matter how many mg the lecithin has? I notice it ranges from 250mg to 1200 mg. Recipe just calls for 1/8 tsp


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## Rader Sidetrack

The "mg" is an abbreviation for "milligrams", which is a unit of weight in the metric system. It won't make any difference to the recipe if the lethicin container is sold/labeled by milligrams or ounces or pounds.


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## nater37

Rader, I realize it is unit of weight. But. a 1200 mg ibuprofen has more concentrate than a 250mg per tablet or capsule. Or am I wrong?


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## Rader Sidetrack

I don't know anything about _ibuprofen_. But I doubt that the active ingredient in the tablet is the ONLY component of the tablet. At a minimum there is likely some kind of binder to make the pills stay pills.

Oh look ....


> MOTRIN (ibuprofen) tablets, a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID), is available in 400 mg, 600 mg, and 800 mg tablets for oral administration. Inactive ingredients: carnauba wax, colloidal silicon dioxide, croscarmellose sodium, hypromellose, lactose, magnesium stearate, microcrystalline cellulose, *propylene glycol*, titanium dioxide.
> http://www.rxlist.com/ibuprofen-drug.htm


 Look at all that good stuff!  

Just buy 100% powdered lecithin and bee happy. 
http://www.myspicesage.com/lecithin-powder-p-543.html
(Just an example, I am not endorsing that vendor.)





(propylene glycol is used to de-ice airplanes and make anti-freeze! ) 
OK, I haven't looked up the ingredients of the aspirin that I use. Now I'm afraid to. :lookout:


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## Rusty Hills Farm

Or ditch the lecithin entirely and emulsify mechanically in a blender. I add my oils to plain water and blend on high for about 5 mins. The oils stay blended. Then I mix in more water for a concentrate that I add to my syrup mix. It takes me most of a season to use up the concentrate but it is still blended when I pour the last of it into my syrup.

This is a trick I picked up on a FatBeeMan video and it works great!

HTH

Rusty


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## sqkcrk

Heard a lecture yesterday which stated that some essential oils are harmful to bees. One which is sometimes found used by beekeepers is actually a fluvalinate compound. Apistan's active ingredient.

Know what you are using and how it effects bees.


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## swarm_trapper

What oil would that be Mark?


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## sqkcrk

Something I heard said from the podium at our State meeting. I'll have to check w/ the speaker for more information.

On one of the power points displayed in one of Dr. Jerry Bromenshenks talk it stated "Essential oils may be toxic to bees.", "Essential oils may not reduce viral loads.", "Some pollen patties may harm bees.", and "Buyers beware of treatments- Some don't work, others have down sides."


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## dirt road

Mixing with a blender actually does work great, it's easy and the mixture stays blended all season long. However, I would recommend using an old or cheap blender, as the one I used from our kitchen could not be scrubbed hard enough with hot soapy water to get the smell out of some of the parts, gaskets and seals etc. I'm sure some of them would not be effected by it but....We now have a very nice new blender in the kitchen, and I have a dedicated blender in the shop for bee stuff.


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## swarm_trapper

Mark if you can find the power point or a recording of that talk i would like to see it. thanks


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## sqkcrk

You'd have to go to Bromenshenk for that. He didn't give that to me or our association. And those were just the points. Dr. Bromenshenk had a lot more to say which I could not write down. I have never been really good about notes beyond the highlights. I actually usually don't take notes. But it was right there on the screen long enough for me to. And I thought it interesting enough to write down.

Dr. Jerry Bromenshenk is on facebook. You may be able to e-mail him through umt.edu/bee. The University of Montana's School of Extended and Lifelong Learning website.


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## wildbranch2007

sqkcrk said:


> You'd have to go to Bromenshenk for that. He didn't give that to me or our association. And those were just the points. Dr. Bromenshenk had a lot more to say which I could not write down. I have never been really good about notes beyond the highlights. I actually usually don't take notes. But it was right there on the screen long enough for me to. And I thought it interesting enough to write down.
> 
> Dr. Jerry Bromenshenk is on facebook. You may be able to e-mail him through umt.edu/bee. The University of Montana's School of Extended and Lifelong Learning website.


Dr. Bromenshenk also posts of Bee-l, you can ask him there, or do a search he may have already posted the info


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## sqkcrk

I quoted him as best I could. Hopefully not too out of context. Hopefully not throwing him under the bus so to say. He knows I Post on beesource and Post a lot. Mentioned to me one time, not recently that he liked what I Posted. So, seems to me anything he is willing to say in front of 100 people he would stand behind in front of thousands. He knows how things work on the Internet. He gave a whole talk about "Internet Myths, Facts, and Fictions". He's a big boy is what I am saying.


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## camero7

Dave Wick has done some studies that some essential oils keep virus levels lower. Depends on who you listen to.


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## sqkcrk

I don't doubt that Dave Wick deals in facts since you mentioned "studies", but that's one thing Bromenshenk said when he heard someone say that they knew that pesticides were what killed his bees, w/out chemical analysis.

I'm not familiar w/ Dave Wick, where is he from?


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## camero7

BVS, Inc 795 Porter Hill Rd Stevensville, MT 59870 
Web site is down right now.

Here's a study Dave and Jerry combined on:
http://beealert.blackfoot.net/~beealert/ChemicalandBiologicalAnalysis.pdf

and some correspondence between Dave and Allen Dick
http://www.honeybeeworld.com/diary/articles/virus.htm

I sent samples to Dave a couple years ago and was happy with his report. Not that expensive.


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## wildbranch2007

got bored waiting for a phone call so did a search on bee-l got one hit 

http://community.lsoft.com/scripts/wa-LSOFTDONATIONS.exe?A2=ind0906C&L=BEE-L&F=&S=&P=1368
I'd be careful with wintergreen. It can be toxic. We don't use it in our 
conditioning of bees - too hard on the bees. It may be that there's a 
threshold at which the dose is toxic to mites, but not to bees.

Jerry


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## wildbranch2007

a new post today about toxicity of some of the essential oils and stating that they shorten bees lives, but doesn't state which chemicals by Jerry Bromenshenk

http://community.lsoft.com/scripts/wa-LSOFTDONATIONS.exe?A2=ind1311&L=BEE-L&F=&S=&P=174928

We've also looked at a long list of essential oils (which members of Bee-L may/may not consider to be natural products). We looked at oils commonly found in various bee supplements and tonics. Many shortened bee life. So much for them being good for bees


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## Rusty Hills Farm

wildbranch2007 said:


> a new post today about toxicity of some of the essential oils and stating that they shorten bees lives, but doesn't state which chemicals by Jerry Bromenshenk
> 
> http://community.lsoft.com/scripts/wa-LSOFTDONATIONS.exe?A2=ind1311&L=BEE-L&F=&S=&P=174928
> 
> We've also looked at a long list of essential oils (which members of Bee-L may/may not consider to be natural products). We looked at oils commonly found in various bee supplements and tonics. Many shortened bee life. So much for them being good for bees


Except that varroa and nosema also shorten bee life. In fact they kill the bees outright. Doesn't that still make EOs the better option?!? Isn't the key to use as little as possible to get results we need until such time as we can find an _even better_ solution?

JMO

Rusty


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## nater37

Rusty Hills Farm said:


> Except that varroa and nosema also shorten bee life. In fact they kill the bees outright. Doesn't that still make EOs the better option?!? Isn't the key to use as little as possible to get results we need until such time as we can find an _even better_ solution?
> 
> JMO
> 
> Rusty



I would certainly think so. I would definitely like the proactive approach myself. Dunno about my bees


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## sqkcrk

Rusty Hills Farm said:


> In fact they kill the bees outright.
> 
> Rusty


No, they don't. It takes some time. And how nosema effects bees and causes mortality is still somewhat a mystery.


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## wildbranch2007

I would hope that at some point he would post which chemicals have the affect on bees, If I used the products I would eliminate those and only use the ones that didn't affect the bees.


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## Rusty Hills Farm

sqkcrk said:


> No, they don't. It takes some time. And how nosema effects bees and causes mortality is still somewhat a mystery.


You're joking, right? How many times have I seen it suggested that what happened to some newbee's deadout is that it collapsed from mites? Or am I imagining that?

Deadout vs some bee life shortened...I'll take the shorter lifespan. Then I'll try to figure out WHICH EO caused it so I can eliminate it from my treatment protocol. Meanwhile I will still have some bees left to treat.

Yes, it is rotten that they suffer while we learn--but a lot of animal husbandry seems to be like that. We plan for the best for them but we are clumsy about execution. Hey, we're trying here! Trying to learn and trying to kill as few as possible in the process! If we weren't trying, we wouldn't be wasting so many hours on BeeSource looking to learn stuff!

JMO

Rusty


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## sqkcrk

Rusty Hills Farm said:


> In fact they kill the bees outright.
> 
> JMO
> 
> Rusty


"outright"? Really? Their mere presence causes colony mortality? Pretty simplistic statement. It takes a critical mass before effects are seen. A certain amount of damage has to be done from the outside by varroa and from the inside by nosema. A death from a thousand cuts.


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## Rusty Hills Farm

sqkcrk said:


> "outright"? Really? Their mere presence causes colony mortality? Pretty simplistic statement. It takes a critical mass before effects are seen. A certain amount of damage has to be done from the outside by varroa and from the inside by nosema. A death from a thousand cuts.


How about looking at the word in context?!? As in


> Except that varroa and nosema also shorten bee life. In fact they kill the bees outright. Doesn't that still make EOs the better option?!? Isn't the key to use as little as possible to get results we need until such time as we can find an even better solution?


So you pick on my word "outright" and completely ignore the rest of it. Namely that EOs are less damaging than the mites and the nosema AND we should keep looking for an even better option. C'mon, already! Quit yer nitpicking!


Rusty


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## sqkcrk

Seemed conflicting to me, that's all.


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## Moccasin

pine_ridge_farms said:


> 5 cups water
> 2 ½ pounds of sugar
> 1/8 teaspoon lecithin granules (used as an emulsifier)
> 15 drops spearmint oil
> 15 drops lemongrass oil
> 
> I have seen this recipe plastered all over the internet. My confusion is this...Some people say feed as is and then again some people say use 1 capful of this mixed with so many quarts of sugar syrup. So what are the feeding directions after mixing this up?


I have seen this same recipe plastered all over the internet also! I have been keeping quiet but I am ready to help you all out even if you don't want it. The Lecithin is NOT used as an emulsifier in this product! It is a food supplement in this case an added fat. It would work to emulsify a dry powder to keep the dust down when blending such things as flour but the oil to water emulsifier you are always missing in these recipes is the additive SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE ! The SLF is a soap! It is found in almost all shampoo and dish soap and just works for one purpose IT MIXES OIL IN WATER (emulsifier) Lecithin won't even mix in water without SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE ( soap)


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## rookie2531

Moccasin said:


> I have seen this same recipe plastered all over the internet also! I have been keeping quiet but I am ready to help you all out even if you don't want it. The Lecithin is NOT used as an emulsifier in this product! It is a food supplement in this case an added fat. It would work to emulsify a dry powder to keep the dust down when blending such things as flour but the oil to water emulsifier you are always missing in these recipes is the additive SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE ! The SLF is a soap! It is found in almost all shampoo and dish soap and just works for one purpose IT MIXES OIL IN WATER (emulsifier) Lecithin won't even mix in water without SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE ( soap)


I did a little research on this ingredient before making my own blend of hbh, and found it is used as a thickener, not an emulsifier. The lecithin is used as the emulsifier. And it does work without the slf. I have some bottled up for a couple months now, with no separation. All ingredients except the slf. I used liquid lecithin and hot water and blended for five minutes. It does work.


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## aunt betty

Lecithin is most certainly an emulsifier. http://www.adm.com/en-US/products/food/lecithin/Documents/Lecithin as an Emulsifier.pdf
To make an emulsion takes a blender.
Rookie...how do you do it? Go into detail please.


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## gnor

Does anybody know of scientific studies on the effectiveness of essential oils?


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## aunt betty

Here's some info on essential oils. Apparently it messes up the varroa larva. 
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/varroa2.htm


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## gnor

Thank you.


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## aunt betty

Dodgerdoob said:


> Has anyone tried any other emulsifiers besides lecithin? I saw somewhere that Honey has been used, it just takes longer. Looking up emulsifiers, I saw that honey and egg yolk were two of the most common. Yolks actually contain lecithin. I think I'm going to try to use some other emulsifiers just to see what else is out there.


I thought about this and yes. Egg yolks contain lecithin. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egg_lecithin
The HBH recipe must be older than soybean production in the US. 
Someone with one of them old books from the 1800's...look up the HBH recipe from back then PLEASE!


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## aunt betty

Dodgerdoob said:


> Tried honey without much success. Never tried yolk. I've been using lecithin, but not the granules. I got some liquid form for soap making that doesn't incorporate too well. Now I have some capsules from CVS that seem to work really well.


Capsules from CVS!!!
That is the info I was looking for, missed it first time thru.
THANKS!


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## Rader Sidetrack

aunt betty said:


> The HBH recipe must be older than soybean production in the US.
> Someone with one of them old books from the 1800's...look up the HBH recipe from back then PLEASE!


I would be surprised if anything is found in 200 year old books about Honey-B-Healthy. 

HBH was only developed about 20 years ago. Here is the history ....
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa/honeyBhlth.htm


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## aunt betty

I've seen or heard of a recipe like this before and it was before the internet existed. 
Never made any and never thought about it again like lots of things when I was a young beek in the late-70's. 
Where to get the ingredients would have been a challenge for me.


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## gnor

> Has anyone tried any other emulsifiers besides lecithin?


I saw a recipe that used emulsifying wax along with the Lecithin. You can get it here: http://www.culturesforhealth.com/emulsifying-wax.html
It's sometimes called e-wax (not to be confused with ear-wax!)


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## gnor

gnor said:


> I saw a recipe that used emulsifying wax along with the Lecithin. You can get it here: http://www.culturesforhealth.com/emulsifying-wax.html


I take this back. It's not so good after all.


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## natalia

I am new to beekeeping just starting out and wish to make my own healthy b healhy recipe. I do have lecithin capsules on hand and I was wondering how many capusules did you use. They are large 1200 MG that I take for my own health. Thank you. Natalia


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## gnor

natalia said:


> I am new to beekeeping just starting out and wish to make my own healthy b healhy recipe. I do have lecithin capsules on hand and I was wondering how many capusules did you use. They are large 1200 MG that I take for my own health. Thank you. Natalia


Here's my recipe:
I bought a jar of liquid lecithin at The Bulk Barn, so I have lots.

*Ingredients:*

1 litre/quart of 1:1 syrup
1 tsp each Wintergreen, Lemongrass, and Eucalyptus essential oil
1 tsp liquid lecithin, or break enough capsules to do it.
*
Method:*
Heat the syrup to approx. 150-180 ºF
Add about a cup of syrup and the lecithin to a blender and blend for a minute.
With the blender running, drizzle in the essential oils
Gradually blend in the rest of the syrup. You can't over mix this.
Bottle in a hot sterilized mason jar.

I keep mine in a mason jar in the fridge, and it has not separated in almost a year. I add 1 tsp per litre/quart of syrup while it's hot, and it mixes fine. I'm not sure about Varroa, but I think it helps with the gut parasites. We have long Winters here.
It smells really good, so if you don't like it for bees you can always use it in your bath.


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## dsegrest

Pro health from Mann Lake costs about 75% of what HBH does. I do not use the recommended dose. A very small splash of pro-health and a very small splash of apple-cider vinegar goes in a 5 gal bucket of 1:1 sugar syrup.


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## aunt betty

natalia said:


> I am new to beekeeping just starting out and wish to make my own healthy b healhy recipe. I do have lecithin capsules on hand and I was wondering how many capusules did you use. They are large 1200 MG that I take for my own health. Thank you. Natalia


Bought the stuff from that apothecary website. Used sunflower lecithin, three 1200 mg capsules. Just cut them open carefully and squeeze the stuff out. Plan on not using the blender for anything else after you make HBH.


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## Lauri

I'll ad my 2 cents to this old thread. 
I never use essential oils as a treatment or medication. I only use it as a lure or attractant for my sugar blocks, protein patties or swarm traps. Never in syrup. So the fact any oils won't blend into liquid without separating is no matter for me. 

If they won't take up syrup, there is something up. Ether they have natural feed sources that are better or they have a hive issue. Queenless, no brood, heavy mite or disease load, etc.

Sometimes about this time of year I have a few smaller colonies that are slow to grow and are reluctant to take up syrup. But you have to figure out what their issue is. Sometimes it is just that they don't have enough bees to generate enough heat to get the brood nest started. Sometimes it just a lack of enthusiasm. They eventually grab a gear when natural feed sources kick in. I've found no amount of lure or attractant additive will help that, although I do lightly sprinkle the top of the frames with light syrup on occasion to try to inspire them to take up supplemental feed.

I use Mann Lake's pro health on occasion, and if I wanted to stretch it, I would just add a pint of Pro health or Honey Bee healthy to the recipe shown in the op. I bet it would blend up nicely and stretch your dollar.

I'm careful with essential oils. Just touch a tiny drop to you lips and you'll know why. A little goes a long way.


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## Flintliddon

two questions. one: what sort of oils are you using? I bought Living good. or living correct. or living well. something like that. supposed to be very good. and it is super-concentrated. 15 drops of that stuff would drive you out fo the kitchen. I'm curious if the type of essential oils are making any difference. two: I have three hives. I notice that one hive cannot get enough of the mixture using sugarwater and lemongrass oil, thyme, and spearmint. but the other two hives wont touch it. I use entrance feeders. the morning after filling them up the one hive entrance feeder will be bone dry but the other two will be practically full. Just curious if anyone has seen this. For what its worth, the hive that likes the mixture is very very healthy and active. Just for what its worth. I'm not trying to convince anyone that its the way to go. just my observation.


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## stamps

Can I use this from CVS Nowfoods Lecithin Nervous System Support Vegetarian Granules, 16 OZ


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## lablady726

where do you get the thyme oil? would be very curios about your recipe!!! You interested in sharing?


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## dudelt

I got the thyme oil from Amazon. The brand is "Plant Therapy". About $10. I have used the recipe on page 1 of this thread with a few drops of Thyme oil included sometimes. I don't use the HBH recipe in syrup either but will dilute it and put it on the screen of a queen cage to improve acceptance. I am not positive it really helps but the acceptance rate history is excellent. Since it seems to be working, I am hesitant to stop doing it this way.


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## lablady726

Thank you!!!!


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## shinbone

Can anyone provide a link to a reasonably well done study that shows adding essential oils to sugar syrup is good for the bees' health?


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