# TB Barrrel Bee Hive Plans



## Matt903 (Apr 8, 2013)

Ok I have never made one, but I don't like them for two reasons. First reason it looks like that would be a lot of comb hanging from the top bar. I think you would have comb breakage. The second and I think the most important is the material. I hate to introduce any kind of chemical to a hive. I think plastic rates as a chemical. What happens to plastic when it is exposed to heat and cold? I don t know, but I bet it is not good for bees. Have you checked out Michael Bush s website? He has a great plan for a easy to make top bar hive. Keep the questions coming, this forum has been slow lately.


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## Snookie (Dec 13, 2013)

Matt903 said:


> Ok I have never made one, but I don't like them for two reasons. First reason it looks like that would be a lot of comb hanging from the top bar. I think you would have comb breakage. The second and I think the most important is the material. I hate to introduce any kind of chemical to a hive. I think plastic rates as a chemical. What happens to plastic when it is exposed to heat and cold? I don t know, but I bet it is not good for bees. Have you checked out Michael Bush s website? He has a great plan for a easy to make top bar hive. Keep the questions coming, this forum has been slow lately.


10-4 Thanks for your reply...

I got PLENTY QUESTIONS lol

Happy New Year!


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

Regarding the concerns that plastic is a chemical and heat (especially from direct sunlight) will cause it to off-gas, etc, you bring up a good point.

I have found that the curve of the barrel keeps it hidden pretty well from direct sunlight because it's under a roof. There IS some direct sunlight during the winter because the sun is more in alignment (lower in the sky), but that is a GOOD thing. I also realize there's internal heat, but, I don't know, I figure any chemical residue/off-gassing is extremely minimal.

I guarantee that my barrel top bar hives are infinitely more healthy than the hives that are treated with various fungicides, miticides, antibiotics, pesticided mono-crops, etc.

By the way, I only have two barrel hives. The rest of my hives are wooden and I'm sure most of the hives I build in the future will be wooden.

I'm just doing it as an experiment. It's been fun.


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## Snookie (Dec 13, 2013)

Makes sense to me:}

Got mine cut...now planning next steps to finish putting it together and whether or not to drill holes in bottom and cover in screen.

Seen some examples of cut's entire length of barrel bottom, some with a few holes, any suggestions anyone?

Thanks in advance


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

Nice looking hives Snookie. I wouldn't worry too much about off gassing, I worry more about things like not knowing what food we're eating that are produced or processed in China. What size are the top bars?


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## Snookie (Dec 13, 2013)

Colino said:


> Nice looking hives Snookie. I wouldn't worry too much about off gassing, I worry more about things like not knowing what food we're eating that are produced or processed in China. What size are the top bars?


LOL I heard dat....I avoid Wally World and China items myself lol

Only rough estimates so far top bars 24"


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## shannonswyatt (May 7, 2012)

I don't have one, but I have two problems with them. The first is the width. If you had a hive strong enough to build comb from the top to the bottom the comb in honey storage would weigh too much, and collapse. The second is that they are pretty hideous looking. Pretty sure someone would complain to the paint nazi's in the sub-division. 

I think that if you had something like a thirty gallon container it would be a better size for the comb.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

shannonswyatt said:


> I don't have one, but I have two problems with them. The first is the width. If you had a hive strong enough to build comb from the top to the bottom the comb in honey storage would weigh too much, and collapse. The second is that they are pretty hideous looking. Pretty sure someone would complain to the paint nazi's in the sub-division.
> 
> I think that if you had something like a thirty gallon container it would be a better size for the comb.


Points well taken.

Sometime soon I will inspect my barrel hives and photograph the honey bars. I have not had collapse problems thus far, but that's not to say it's not possible, especially depending on the heat and how one handles the bar/comb.

As far as aesthetics, well, one can always paint the hives. I think they look mighty handsome as is, but then again, I have a two-tone green house, so what possible credibility do I have regarding taste?


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## shannonswyatt (May 7, 2012)

How much are you paying for barrels?


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

I did dabble a little with the TBH made from T-111 scrap. 

I do believe this 30 gallon barrel would be just the ticket for a barrel TBH though.


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## shannonswyatt (May 7, 2012)

If I come across one for free I will pick it up and make one, but if I have to pay for it I would much rather just purchase a 1x lumber. I'm pretty sure I'm under $30 for a full size hive (minus the bars, outer cover and any stand I would use) including nails, glue and paint. And it takes very little time to assemble wooden hive body. Seems like it takes longer to paint a hive than to build it. I hate painting. 

I would suggest that if you make one you build it with the stand separate from the hive. Otherwise it may be almost impossible to move if you ever need to. 

I wouldn't put a screen in the bottom, just a good way for SHB to move in and out of the hive.


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## Snookie (Dec 13, 2013)

Mr.Beeman said:


> I did dabble a little with the TBH made from T-111 scrap.
> 
> I do believe this 30 gallon barrel would be just the ticket for a barrel TBH though.
> View attachment 8789



Hummmmmm....I got one of those 30 gal too.. :}

Oh well guess it will bee 2-55gal and 2-30 gal TBH lol

Now where did I put the sawzall....?

I think I'm addicted?


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

.

I inspected a couple of my barrel hives yesterday (Jan 5th, 2014) and here are several photos. (I will post a video later)


*This is a honey bar. The 1/2-inch hardware cloth is because this comb was originally from a cut-out. They have expanded on the comb since then, of course:*











*Can you spot the queen? I made it easy for everyone.*











*A big ol' batch of brood:*


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## shannonswyatt (May 7, 2012)

It is interesting that they don't pull it out to match the shape of the barrel.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

shannonswyatt said:


> It is interesting that they don't pull it out to match the shape of the barrel.


They will this spring, I'm predicting.

They slow down building comb during the winter, even in FL.


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## tomcheetoh (Dec 20, 2013)

I actually just built one of these this past weekend with my neighbor. This post inspired me to do the research and make one, so thank you. No top bars yet, but the body is done and I got the top of a broken table for the lid. I don't have any hives yet, and this was the cheapest way I could build a hive. Fingers crossed.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

.

I wrote this to someone before regarding these hives, although I STILL recommend people build one or two of them:



> They are great fun. They have HUGE combs and it's very fascinating.
> 
> However, just be warned about these 'downsides', which aren't really that big of a deal:
> 
> ...


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

.

Also, someone asked me about screened-bottoms in my barrel hives (I don't have them).

Here's the OPINION I expressed regarding this matter (holding ears from fireworks this may set off):



> No, I never have placed any holes/screens in any of my personal hives for ventilation. I have for other people, and they've had issues with their new packages absconding.
> 
> I am agnostic about screened-bottoms or ventilation holes being of an overall benefit. I am of the opinion (based on my personal experience and reading of others) that the bees can better regulate the temperature with just a main entrance at the front. They can also better regulate the evaporation of the honey. Also, my hives sometimes have condensation at the bottom where the bees can use to feed themselves water. That means they don't have to go out and forage for it nearly as much, which frees them to gather honey/pollen, etc.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

.

I expect this video to go VIRAL !!!! 

I believe it will be a hit in Norway.


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

A few of you asked to see the TBH I built from T-111 scraps left over from one of my customer's projects.

It took me a while to find the pic...


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

Using a 55 gal. plastic food grade barrel that hold syrup before cut in less than half can be economical as bee hive holding 22 standard langs med. bee frames in a barrel on a sturdy hive stand made out of 2x4's. The blue one is preferred over the white color barrel. The plastic is non-toxic and will not leach or fume any toxic material out. Food grade films or plastic materials have their EPA standard to meet. Latex paint will not do because the plastic will not stick to them and will peel off under the heat over time. Maybe a spray paint can will do on the outside painted in black. Screened ventilation holes are needed to prevent suffocation when the hive entrance is reduced to only 1" wide.

Plastic 55 gal barrel non-food grade w/ 1" entrance:


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## Snookie (Dec 13, 2013)

beepro said:


> Using a 55 gal. plastic food grade barrel that hold syrup before cut in less than half can be economical :


Dart's right lol, Dat's right:}








[/url] windows 7 screenshot[/IMG]


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

.

That is SA-WEET !!!!


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

Taaa Daaa!


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## WBVC (Apr 25, 2013)

PatBeek said:


> .
> 
> I expect this video to go VIRAL !!!!
> 
> ...


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

In any type of hive I am sure the bees will do their best to regulate within the hive. So to insulate or not is up to the individual beekeeper according to your environment. I would say if you insulate then the bees will have a better chance at winter survival in a cold and damp climate. The only way you will know is to test them out in your locality. Raising the type of bees to your climate will help tremendously too. 
I do provide the proper ventilation holes for them here in the winter time. Plastic and wood hive is not the same material. So if using plastic the inside hive temp will swing more compare to the wooden wares because of the difference in thickness. But I think with a strong colony they can regulate the temp inside the hive without any problem. Seeing so many dead hives every year if the hive is too cold for an extended time then they can die does not matter if plastic or wood. Insulating the hive will help keep them warm and cozy for sure agaist the outside elements. 
If the temp is below freezing then I don't think the plastic barrel will keep them warm enough. I still think even the wooden hive will not give them enough warmth in a freezing climate. Regarding to the damp you can put wood shaving on the bottom of the barrel that act as insulation too. At the same time put tarps or attic insulation around the barrel to tie everything around. A used old sleeping bag rated below freezing will help too for insulation.


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## TheRainHarvester @YouTube (Feb 20, 2020)

BeePro, what is the white on the inside of your barrel? Also , did you make frames for those numbered bars? (One pic looks like a frame, but another looks like a top bar).

There is very little info on 55 gallon barrel results online. How are everybody's doing? Still using them? If not, why?
Thanks!


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