# DIY Dripless honey valve



## heaflaw (Feb 26, 2007)

I like it


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

Given the cost of parts, why not a standard honey gate with a much higher flow rate for less?
3$ shipped, done, just saying https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastic-Ny...05&rk=1&rkt=1&&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

Because using a honey gate for bottling can be more messy, not as good of a stream to hit the bottle opening. I made up one myself over ten years ago that is similar to the OP's and it's great, much better than using a honey gate. I used all PVC for mine, including the 1/4 turn valve, and no silicon. Works great, was one of my better ideas.


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## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

msl said:


> Given the cost of parts, why not a standard honey gate with a much higher flow rate for less?
> 3$ shipped, done, just saying https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastic-Ny...05&rk=1&rkt=1&&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226


msl: I have four Mann Lake honey gates and I curse every one of them. I probably could have tried other plastic honey gates, but I got inspired as I was cleaning up the mess my last one had made. The pour rate is slower with this valve, but there is not a single drop of honey that goes astray. I can still fill a quart jar in less than 10 seconds.

The silicone on the exterior is likely overkill. I tested it with water and there was a single bead of water on the joint at the outside of the bucket. I lined it with silicone. I am fairly certain that the viscosity of the honey would have prevented it from finding the same leak that the water found. But I was kind of on a mission at this point. I was sealing it off.


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## AstroBee (Jan 3, 2003)

Did you mill off the threads on the output side of the valve?


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## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

AstroBee said:


> Did you mill off the threads on the output side of the valve?


No, and I was surprised that the honey did not accumulate in the threads and drip. For whatever reason, it doesn't. 

I built it in frustration. I poured 5 gallons into my bucket with plastic gate. Gate leaked. I poured it back into the original bucket. Got another bucket with another plastic gate. Poured 5 gallons in. That gate leaked. Lost my religion. Went to hardware store. Bought the components and stuck them together and drilled hole in new bucket. Thought about cutting the bottom threads off the valve but figured "I only have 5 gallons left this year, I will modify that in the winter." Filled up the bucket and never had a drip.


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## MAXANT (Sep 13, 2008)

Keep your eye on that metal locking nut (can't tell if its plastic or metal) on the inside of the bucket.
The honey will eat that up and add some nice flavor to your honey. Remember, honey is acidic. 
Nice concept. If your really wanting to go crazy, you can buy the elbows, as well as the ball valve in stainless.


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## AstroBee (Jan 3, 2003)

MAXANT said:


> Keep your eye on that metal locking nut (can't tell if its plastic or metal) on the inside of the bucket.
> The honey will eat that up and add some nice flavor to your honey. Remember, honey is acidic.
> Nice concept. If your really wanting to go crazy, you can buy the elbows, as well as the ball valve in stainless.


My thought as well. Probably don't want that metal in contact with the honey.


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## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

MAXANT said:


> Keep your eye on that metal locking nut (can't tell if its plastic or metal) on the inside of the bucket.
> The honey will eat that up and add some nice flavor to your honey. Remember, honey is acidic.
> Nice concept. If your really wanting to go crazy, you can buy the elbows, as well as the ball valve in stainless.


The locking nut is metal and it will be replaced. They did not have a plastic locking nut on Sunday. I will pick one up this winter. I only had to jar up my last 5 gallons of the year. Modifications to come. 

A 16 gallon Maxant bottling tank with dripless valve has now worked its way up to the top of my equipment list. Should be able to buy it with next year's honey harvest. Can you work me a deal?


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## MikeJ (Jan 1, 2009)

Did something similar once - but (maybe my choice in valves) it did not work well.
The nut inside *looks* like a breaker box wire clamp nut (for tightening the clamps the to the box)... I do not know - most likely aluminum, but is there led alloyed in it? Since it (if it is such) was not meant to come in contact with moisture or food - you might want to check into it?


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## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

It is for electrical conduit and it will be coming out and replaced with a plastic one once it is found. I had 5 gallons of heated honey and a local Marvin's Hardware Store. I made do with what I had. I am not concerned with the 5 gallons that I bottled Sunday leaching toxins from the 3/4" aluminum ring in the short time it took me to fill 18 quarts. But I do agree that it does not need to remain as it could degrade over extended use. There was actually a display in the plumbing section that had the 3/4" plastic nut on a piece of cardboard with multiple other sizes. I asked the folks at Marvin's if I could cut it out of the display but they said no. I don't blame them.


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## MikeJ (Jan 1, 2009)

Yes - I wonder how long the honey would have to remain in contact to create any actual leaching of any significance. I doubt a couple of hours is going to be enough to make any measurable change.


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