# beginner's class -- easy nucs



## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Rather than build specially sized nuc boxes, I prefer to use standard equipment. I start with a standard 10 frame medium box as all of my equipment is 10 frame medium. The only thing I do uniquely is put a groove in the end boards before assembly. I do this to all of my boxes now. 1/4" by about 1/8" deep.
http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/box.jpg

I make my bottom boards, so I have some made with two side entrances instead of the normal front entrance. These can be used for either nucs or normal hives. I notch the side with a handsaw and knock out the plug with a hammer. 
http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/bottom.jpg

The bottom board is sized to fit the box plus about a 1/4" inside. This allows the divider board to seat all the way to the bottom to create two 5 frame medium nucs. A couple of flat boards make the top. Note the divider extends above the sides to keep cross over to a minimum when you are working them. 

http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/complete1.jpg
http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/complete2.jpg

The grooves I made in the beginning provide a place for the 1/4" follower board. Since the grooves are only about 1/8" deep, you can flex the follower to get it out rather than trying to slide it after it has been propolized. The setup can go from nuc to hive in a few minutes.


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## Jeffrey Todd (Mar 17, 2006)

Nice nucs, Ross. I, too, like to use only mediums for everything and use the same equipment as much as possible. Have you ever made any that have 3 separate compartments for 3 nucs? I suppose you could just give the 3rd one a back entrance. 
Your idea is better than what I had in mind for making multiple nucs from standard equipment, so I believe I will borrow your way if that's okay with you. 

Thanks,

Jeffrey


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## Jeffzhear (Dec 2, 2006)

Ross, thanks for sharing your experience. I added your thread to my favorites so I can refer back to it. I bought a table saw this past Christmas and have started making my own equipment, so I look forward to building a few of your designed NUC's.

Question, do you put a special inside cover on top of the box for ventilation? and then a telescoping cover? Maybe I missed how you cover them. I'll have to go back and re-read.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

We pretty much just use flat magratory tops here in Texas, so I just slap a flat board on them. For colder climates you might want to use a board for an inner cover and then put on a regular top. Just cut your divider so it is flush with the inner cover boards.


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## Jeffzhear (Dec 2, 2006)

Ross, thanks. I am going to work on building an inner cover with a vent hole on each side, and some type of top cover...I have to think about it some more...


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## LET (May 24, 2005)

Great design. I wish I was handier with tools.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

If the notches are 1/4" and the rabbets are 3/8" what happens to the left over 1/8" or so gap at the frame rest?


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I just stick in a little wooden shim if the space seems to warant it, but I didn't mention it, so good catch. I guess making the groove the same depth as the frame rest would make sense. But it does make getting the center board in and out a little harder. I really haven't noticed a problem with crossover even without the shim. The notch is less than bee sized and is soon propolized. If you make the groove deeper, you either have to account for it by increasing the size of the bottom board, notching the bottom board to match, or notching both edges of the center board. None is ever very precise, so I just stuck to making shallow notches. Worth noting, these are not my mating nucs. I use a 3 frame dedicated box for that.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>I guess making the groove the same depth as the frame rest would make sense. 

That's what I've done, but the down side is it cuts into the handle cutout.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I have a few like that too. That's one reason I changed them this time. I'm open to a group improvement project if anyone has input.


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## drobbins (Jun 1, 2005)

why would you consider the groove breaking through into the handhold a bad thing?
it's not like it's a gapping hole
I thought about cutting two grooves so you could make 3 3 frames nucs
that way you miss the hand hold

Dave


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>why would you consider the groove breaking through into the handhold a bad thing?
it's not like it's a gapping hole

I worry that it will rot through there sooner than anywhere else. I've left them that way, though.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

The bees certainly appreciate it when the divider isn't in. It can always be plugged later if it rots.


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

*Condo Mating Nucs*

Since I've had poor results in my attempts to use mini polystyrene mating nucs, it has been suggested that I try using somewhat more volume for mating nucs. Since I have a large quantity of unassembled 10-frame medium supers, which I have been modifying to 8-frame width as I assemble them, I decided to modify one (perhaps more) in a different way, to divide a 10-frame super into 4, 2-frame nucs. I made three vertical single kerf cuts, assembled the box, cut some inserts from left-over packing box cardboard, used some grooved bottom bars to stiffen the upper edge of the cardboard partitions, tacked #8 hardware cloth across the bottom for ventilation, fastened supports across the hardware cloth inline with the partitions, sealed all seams with high temp hot melt glue.

http://www.cordovan-honeybee.com/nucs/CondoNuc_4Plex.jpg
http://www.cordovan-honeybee.com/nucs/CondoNuc_4Plex_frontA.jpg
http://www.cordovan-honeybee.com/nucs/CondoNuc_4Plex_bottom.jpg
http://www.cordovan-honeybee.com/nucs/CondoNuc_4Plex_over.jpg

I plan to finish them by creating an inner cover of cloth, possibly canvas. I will use multiple layers. One layer to cover the entire top, fastened to the center partition, then one under layer fastened to the outer partitions on each side. This way I can open each one separately.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

The cardboard will work for a while but they will eventually chew it up.


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## TwT (Aug 5, 2004)

I build similar to that also, but i make 3- 3 frame nuc's out of a 10 frame hive, i cut mine as deep as the frame rest but going with 3 my cuts are on each side of the handle.... nice pics


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## Dan Williamson (Apr 6, 2004)

Michael Bush said:


> >I guess making the groove the same depth as the frame rest would make sense.
> 
> That's what I've done, but the down side is it cuts into the handle cutout.


I make nucs exactly like this. I have deeps and mediums. Cut the slot the same depth as the frame rest and just use cleats on the outsides just like the rest of my boxes. (I make my own) I don't have to worry about the handle cutout that way and I think it strengthens the board as you have cut a slot in the middle of it.


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

*Preserving cardboard among honeybees*



Michael Bush said:


> The cardboard will work for a while but they will eventually chew it up.


MB,
Thanks for the info. Perhaps if I coat the cardboard with propolis or polyurethane it might slow them down some.


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## drobbins (Jun 1, 2005)

>The cardboard will work for a while but they will eventually chew it up.

I would think it would last for a single use
you could just replace it each time you use it
I guess you guys are talking about mating nucs you use over and over
I was thinking more of splits once or twice a year 
I use 1/4" Luan simply because I have scraps around
(it's nice stuff)

Dave


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## TwT (Aug 5, 2004)

drobbins said:


> >
> I use 1/4" Luan simply because I have scraps around
> (it's nice stuff)
> 
> Dave


i use luan or paneling also


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I think the luan is perfect. Back in the old days I used masonite as it was about the only thing available in that thickness. It did not work as well.


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## NW IN Beekeeper (Jun 29, 2005)

[...Back in the old days I used masonite...]


Yeah, it tends to swell, bend, and loose shape with humidity. 
It doesn't scrap clean very well either (especially the textured side). 

Some laun varieties stink because of their fibers that splinter. 
A good sharp saw blade and the right rate of speed cutting helps.

-Jeff


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## BeeKeep (Mar 30, 2006)

*Formica might work*

I'd consider trying scrap pieces of formica. I think it'd fit in a single saw kerf.

I had thought of using formica for the sides of a homemade frame feeder for a single or double NUC. Has anybody done that?

Scott


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