# migratory tops



## jmgi (Jan 15, 2009)

So they say there's no dumb beekeeping questions, so tell me what the real purpose is for the wood cleats that run across the narrow width on the top of the migratory tops? Obviously, I don't use migratory tops.:scratch:


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

To keep them from warping and becoming unusable.


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

Great question, I've wondered about that myself. I thought the cleats might be for leverage to remove the cover without damage. 

How do the cleats on the ends prevent warping?


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## RAK (May 2, 2010)

The cleats act as a guide when stacking pallets. The bottom deckboards on our pallets sit right between the cleats.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Mike Gillmore;10364 How do the cleats on the ends prevent warping?[/QUOTE said:


> By adding the strength of an additional piece of wood which is normally cross grain to the top.
> 
> cchoganjr


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

OK, makes sense. Especially with plywood. I get it now, took a few minutes to sink in.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Also make them easier to grab.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

They look good also.


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## Kamon A. Reynolds (Apr 15, 2012)

Are most migratory tops made with plywood these days?


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

It is very hard, if not impossible, to find boards wide enough to cover a super seamlessly. Plywood does.


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## hillbeekeeper (Mar 11, 2013)

Since it's broadly worded ''Migratory tops''


Does anyone have a design or know of any plans for a migratory top with an upper entrance?


Thanks in advance.


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

hillbeekeeper said:


> Does anyone have a design or know of any plans for a migratory top with an upper entrance?


From Michael Bush's website.

If you use standard migratory tops with cleats on the ends, you can slide in shims on the long side of the box to create an upper entrance.
http://www.bushfarms.com/images/MigratoryTopEntrance1.JPG

Or, if you cut your plywood top flush without cleats, you can add shims to the end to create an entrance.
http://www.bushfarms.com/images/TopOnHive2.jpg


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

Mine have. 3/8 plywood 16 1/4 X 19 7/8". A 5/16 X3/4" rim all around with end pieces having a 2" trapezoid cut out and pivoting on centered nail. the ends have 1/2 slices of scrap 2 by X for stiffeners. They are mostly made of scrap and you get ten out of a sheet of plywood. I am not smart enough to post pictures. They have some downside but I just can't seem to quit making them. I like the versatility.


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## jmgi (Jan 15, 2009)

If you make migratory tops out of plywood, is there a paint out there other than latex that would hold up better to coat them with. I have made tops of plywood for some top bar hives in the past, and even with several coats of latex it will start getting fine cracks in the paint after several months, thus allowing moisture penetration into the plywood. Then again, maybe that's just the nature of plywood and no paint will keep it perfectly sealed for very long.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Use Advantech. Lasts a long, L O N G time. No painting required. Usually get mine as scraps from builders....


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

Advantec, an engineered plywood-type sheet, does not warp. It's a little pricey but is also thick enough that you could rout a groove into it for a top entrance.


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

I add a 3/8" X 3/4" wide rim on my plywood tops, similar to what Vance was describing. Three sides are glued and nailed down. The side that will be used for an entrance will be nailed with no glue so that sections on the entrance side can be removed or replaced as needed to control the size of the opening. Most of my tops have entrances on the long side, some on the ends as in the photo.


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

With that extra space above the top bars, don't you get a lot of burr comb?


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Mike Gillmore said:


> I add a 3/8" X 3/4" wide rim on my plywood tops, similar to what Vance was describing. Three sides are glued and nailed down. The side that will be used for an entrance will be nailed with no glue so that sections on the entrance side can be removed or replaced as needed to control the size of the opening. Most of my tops have entrances on the long side, some on the ends as in the photo.
> 
> View attachment 8703


I use these as a combo top and bottom. Sometimes a put a piece of vinyl flooring on the top bars (an inch or two away from all the edges)....... keeps them from building burr comb above and sticking the top to the frames........


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

cg3 said:


> With that extra space above the top bars, don't you get a lot of burr comb?


Cut a piece of vinyl flooring and lay it on the frames (an inch or two away from all sides)........ works like a charm..


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

There is about a 9/16" gap between the top bars and the cover. Yes, when they are crowded or expanding I do get some burr comb, but it's not enough to cause a problem. The rim could be cut narrower, but I like to give the bees a good 3/8" opening to move through.


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## jmgi (Jan 15, 2009)

snl, in the photo above is that the size entrance you use all the time?


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

Not sure what snl does, but the picture shows how my tops are set up for overwintering. It's hard to see but if you look closely at the pic you will see that the rim on that end is cut into two sections and nailed down. Sections can be removed as the season progresses to allow additional traffic. If robbing starts up the sections can be nailed back in to restrict the entrance size.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

jmgi said:


> snl, in the photo above is that the size entrance you use all the time?


I use a 3 1/2 to 4" opening on the bottom and the top is opened (with wedges) all summer long. I pull the wedges in the winter .... sometimes. But I'm in the South and the bees can fly almost anyday.........


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

How about today? Are they flying today?


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

sqkcrk said:


> How about today? Are they flying today?


You betcha and eating up their stores!


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

Advantec request get a blank look here. I guess it is not used in our dry country. The gap above the top bars does fill up with burr comb but it leaves enough room for a pollen pattie too. In the winter I do not use that top entrance. I put a piece of sound board on and cover that with Styrofoam. The entrance is thru the hole bored right below the handhold on the upper brood body. My bees got some flight days after over a month in. One of two I though was dead was still doing fine. Just down deep and quiet.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Plain 3/4" plywood will last almost indefinitely on top of a hive around here. 3/4 doesn't warp significantly. I have also used 1/2". I will warp a bit, but the bees don't care. A stick under one corner makes a top entrance.


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## johng (Nov 24, 2009)

I bought some plyform from a local lumber yard for $31 a sheet. You can get 10 tops out of a piece. That works out to a little over $3 per top. It's normally used as a form in concrete construction. Just cut it to fit the top of a hive I can't think any other top is easier to make. The plyform is an exterior grade plywood so it holds up well to the weather.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

johng said:


> Just cut it to fit the top of a hive I can't think any other top is easier to make. .


About the same price as a sheet of Advantec. Advantec and plywood has the same cut and same number of tops from a sheet. About $3.20 per top.

To each his own, but, I personally think Advantec will out perform plywood for tops and feeder tops. Can paint or leave as is.

cchoganjr


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

>>so tell me what the real purpose is for the wood cleats that run across the narrow width on the top of the migratory tops? O<<

jmgi, the top cleat provides extra strength for the side cleat. It also keeps the wood from warping.


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## Moots (Nov 26, 2012)

Vance G said:


> Advantec request get a blank look here. I guess it is not used in our dry country. The gap above the top bars does fill up with burr comb but it leaves enough room for a pollen pattie too. In the winter I do not use that top entrance. I put a piece of sound board on and cover that with Styrofoam. The entrance is thru the hole bored right below the handhold on the upper brood body. My bees got some flight days after over a month in. One of two I though was dead was still doing fine. Just down deep and quiet.


Vance,
Here's a link to the Advantech homepage.
http://www.huberwood.com/advantech/home-advantech
There is a "Where to Buy" link in the upper right corner of the page which allows you to enter your zip code and find out who carries it in your area.
I read about advantech a couple of month ago, and really wanted to give it a try. The good news was a local lumber company right in town carries their product. The bad news is they were out of stock when I went there...after several phone calls trying to find out when they would have it in stock again, it became obvious that their customer service was severely lacking. I finally gave up and moved on.


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## julysun (Apr 25, 2012)

Vance, is this* "2" trapezoid cut out and pivoting on centered nail"* an adjustable entry?


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