# Creamed (Soft set) honey video -- recommended!



## DeeAnna

From time to time, someone asks how to make creamed honey. By this, I mean honey that is intentionally crystallized so it has a very fine, creamy grain. (I'm not talking about honey butter, meaning liquid honey + butter blended together into a spreadable mixture.) 

I found a beautifully made video by a UK beekeeper that explains the "Dyce" method of making creamed (soft set) honey in clear detail. My mouth was watering by the time I got to the end of this video, and I learned a lot about the process. 

See: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLGE-7n0_Ko 

The author mentions several temps in degrees C. Here are a couple of conversions that may be helpful: 

10 C = 52 degrees F
14 C = 57.2 degrees F

Variation -- Cinnamon creamed honey: The author of another video on creamed honey gave a proportion of 1/8 cup (2 Tablespoons) cinnamon for every 10 pounds of honey. That would be 1 Tablespoon per 5 lb honey OR a slightly rounded 1/2 teaspoon per 1 lb honey. The cinnamon is mixed in with the seed. 

Because cinnamon powder does not "wet" easily, I thought I would try mixing it into a small amount of honey first so it is easier to deal with, then mix that honey into the rest.


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## HVH

That was a good video. The basic approach was similar to ours but we scaled up to a 42 gallon batch with a tank mixer. Seeding 5 gallons and then letting it set before adding to the honey tank is very similar.

I would really like to know where to purchase that stainless gate valve. Mann Lakes has one but it doesn't have a backing nut and they claim it is designed to fit into a threaded tank fitting.


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## DeeAnna

Search for "honey gate" "stainless steel" backnut with all the quotes included. Some possibilities show up, although none in the US. Can also use "back nut" if the term backnut doesn't work. 

UK: They say this valve is "metal" so that would be something to check on -- could be chrome plated brass. Item is shown down toward the middle of the webpage. Download separate price list. About 28 GBP (pounds). 176. Metal honey valve 1 1/4" bore with backnut: http://honey-bees-etc.co.uk/buyequipment_honeyextracting.html

Italy. This valve is stainless and looks similar to the one in the video. 41 Euro. The threaded end has an flange and o-ring, so it is meant for use with a simple hole through a tank, not just with a threaded fitting. The backnut is available separately for another 17 Euro. http://www.legaitaly.com/index.php?...id=43&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=68&lang=en


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## HVH

Thanks. You found more than I did. I guess the video showed a gate smaller than 2" and the sites you found included the smaller sizes, but a 2" would be handy. I might just get a backing nut from a plumbing supply store and use the 2" stainless gates from Mann Lakes.


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## DeeAnna

You may already know this, HVH, but just in case others might be new to this kind of thing:

A "through" fitting is any valve or other hardware that is designed to be installed through a plain hole in a tank. To prevent leaks, a through fitting must have seals -- flat gaskets or o-rings -- against one or both sides of the tank. 

It is important that the hole in the tank be in as flat an area as possible. Yes, I know most tanks are round -- just try to optimize the situation. A relatively large through fitting on a small tank (for example: a 2" honey gate on a 5 gallon bucket) or a through fitting installed too close to the bottom or top of a tank may never seal well -- there is just too much curvature to deal with.

A fitting that is meant to screw onto a pipe nipple has to be adapted to work properly as a "through" fitting. You will have to be creative by adding gaskets and some kind of backing hardware -- either flange fittings or a combination of nut and washer -- to support the gaskets and press them tightly against the tank. 

Before tightening up a through fitting, smear a light coating of food-safe grease or oil -- even water or honey -- between the gasket or o-ring and its backing hardware. (But do NOT lubricate between a flat gasket and the tank.) This is so the seals will compress evenly and not distort due to the rotational force. Don't over-tighten, again to prevent the seals from distorting. Aim to get it just tight enough for a leak-free fit then add a quarter or half turn more.

Hope this helps! (I used to be a chemical process engineer, so pumps, tanks, pipe, valves, and other heavy equipments were once familiar things in my world.)


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## Vance G

THe first time I filled my bucket with the Mann lake plastic gate, It leaked badly even though I thought I had tightened it adequately. After draining it and cleaning it up I cut a wrench out of 1 by that fit two sides of the hex and it gave me the grip to really cinch it down tight. It is full right now and I just brought it in to warm up to decant with and not a drop of drip.


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## Brad Adams

Thanks for posting the video, very helpful!


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