# Maxant chain uncapper



## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

Hey, I am picking up a lightly used Maxant chain uncapper from a retired beekeeper tomorrow, he only ever had 40 colonies and owned it since new 1983 . I am paying him what he is asking for it 800.00 , I was wondering if there is anything to look for that they could have an issue with years ago ?
This is just a temporary unit for us, we will get a large uncapper as time goes on but I have other Maxant equipment and like the quality.

Thanks


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

Ben, You're going to love it!
It takes a little practice and familiarity for the new operator, but soon you will be FLYING through the frames.

First, check out how freely the carriage moves up and down.
There should be absolutely ZERO binding.
You can take a rag with a little bit of WD-40 and wipe down the dowels that slide up and down through the bushings on each side.
After they are clean and smooth, apply a couple of drops of oil.
Also, lubricate the axle shaft bushings that the handle rotates.
Take your time and look closely and carefully.
The carriage should glide up and down super smoothly.

There are two springs that are critical to the proper operation of the machine.
If they look stretched or kinked, replace them with THE RIGHT SPRINGS!! 
NO JURY RIGGING!!!

There is a limit switch that starts the flail.
It should start the flail as soon as the handle is about 1/4" below the upper rest position.
That can be adjusted.

Oil the flail shaft bearings.

Go down to the hardware store and get 4, 1/4-20 Button head bolts. Also buy a "T" handle that fits the screws.
Replace the bolts that hold the flail shields with the button head bolts.
This makes clean-up a breeze.

Call Maxant and ask them for a manual.

Get the thing tuned up, then I'll give you some Hot-Rod operational tips!!


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

Thanks a bunch !! :applause:

One other thing, I have read that some units year ago were not adjustable in the pillow blocks, does this apply to units built in the 1980's ?


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

Hit Jake with Maxant. He'd know all this for sure. I've got one of those chain uncappers and love it.


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## AstroBee (Jan 3, 2003)

Ben,

How are you planning to process the cappings?


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

I'm going to buy a spinner for them. I just got home for picking it up, it is a little different then what I thought, the motor has an on/off switch and it is turning the chains all the time, it looks like it is factory, the motor is cobbled or anything and it is in good shape, I might have to ask if there was a version of the 1700 that was not activated by the handle. I also picked up a maxant holding tank for 200 bucks, it is heavy gauge steel and bigger then I thought it would be, it is about 4 feet high and 3 feet in diameter ( I didn't measure it, just a good guess )
So now I need a clarifier and my spinner and we should be good for a while, I already have a good pump and filter.


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

Call Maxant.


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## MAXANT (Sep 13, 2008)

Sounds like you have a very old chain uncapper that doesn't run off the current set up which is a micro switch.
Sounds like you got a great deal none the less!


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

It was purchased in 1983 directly from Maxant and shipped to Maine so he could save on fees, he drove down from Nova Scotia and picked it up. I have the wooden crate with his shipping address you sent it in, he said he turned it into the stand for his holding tank  He told me a bit about his beekeeping history, he said he kept bees for 39 years and always bought Maxant equipment, I bought a Maxant holding tank from him and the uncapper, he said it never gave him much trouble. He also had a 30 frame extractor and a bottling tank but I didn't get those, another beekeeper was there and bought them at the same time. 
I suppose there is no big issue with the motor running like it does. The chains look like they are galvanized, did you ever make them that way ?


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

Now that I have actually had time to inspect the machine a little better, I turned it on it's side and found the switch, "stupid me" I should have taken a better look !!!
I adjusted the arm so it would shut off now when it's up in the lock/rest, I set it a 1/4" down like it was mentioned by Harry V.

The serial number on the tag is 1 , does that mean anything significant ? Or is it just a production number ?


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

The switch on the motor allows you to clean the slide without the flail running.
Sometimes a bit of wax or dried honey will cause the slide to bind where it goes through the bushings.
You can turn the switch on the motor off, move the carriage up and down, wiping the 1/2" slide with a rag and warm water, then apply oil to the rod.
Just remember to remind yourself that the carriage should slide up and down freely at all times without ANY binding or stickyness.


There are oil ports for the bearings on both sides of the motor where the shaft exits the motor.
Give them a couple of drops of oil now and then.
There is one idle pulley that also has an oil port.
Both flail shafts have oil points.

Glad to hear that you are figuring it out!


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

I must say that it is very well built, I haven't seen craftsmanship like it in a long time, having fixed lawn and garden equipment most of my life, I see a lot of changes in the industry to keep costs down, however these units appear to be the same as they were in the era mine was built. I see the pillow blocks have oil ports and there is a grease fitting on the idler that was regularly greased, I have to wipe it off actually, the original owner serviced it after extracting honey from a few hives each year and I think it might have a little excess on it HA !
I will check everything over and lubricate it after washing it , the springs look like new on it as well. 

Thanks for the tips sir :thumbsup:


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## MAXANT (Sep 13, 2008)

The serial number doesn't mean anything.
It just means that the customer is #1 
Excellent news you found the microswitch!
Yes, the older chains where steel, Im assuming the ends have rivets in them? 
My thoughts are if it aint broke, don't change it unless you must have stainless steel chains.
Def. get some oil in those pillow block bearings if it looks dry.


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

There are no rivets that I can see , the chain is a flat triangular shape. I was only checking to see if I should upgrade them for food safety concerns. I will snap a couple of pictures of it to see if I am just having a brain fart LOL
I have many different viscosity oils, what is the best type for them ?


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## marios (Nov 20, 2012)

ben did you get new chain for your uncapper i am in the same boat you were a year ago, bought an old uncapper and it needs a good clean up. would love to see a newer one to see changes that have been made. This one is old but very sturdy


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

marios said:


> ben did you get new chain for your uncapper i am in the same boat you were a year ago, bought an old uncapper and it needs a good clean up. would love to see a newer one to see changes that have been made. This one is old but very sturdy


Mine has the original chain. I don't know if I should replace it or not, there isn't really anything wrong with it. Does yours have rivets on the chain ? I know MAXANT said in a post above that they were steel but I see no rivets in mine.


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## TimW (May 15, 2013)

I picked up a used on Maxant uncapper and it has the steel chain, not SS. The problem is the chains have some rust on them. Anyone have an idea on how to remove the rust easily?

Can't afford to buy the replacement SS chains from Maxant right now. That's 384 pieces of chain!!

I'm trying to figure out what size sash chain it is; #8, #25, #35 or ??? It doesn't seem to be #35.


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## MAXANT (Sep 13, 2008)

#35 x 4

You can sand blast the existing chains and coat them with Camcoat, but I don't expect a long life expectancy of the paint.


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## Fusion_power (Jan 14, 2005)

Or use electrolysis to remove it. A 55 gallon plastic drum, a piece of stainless as the positive electrode, a battery charger, some lye, and some water is all it takes to set one up.

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/CRL/conservationmanual/File10a.htm


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## TimW (May 15, 2013)

I'm going to try to use a soda blaster to see how it works on removing it.


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