# How do you heat your honey?



## c10250 (Feb 3, 2009)

Jars go in the dishwasher for a cycle. I have seven in there now that I'm selling tomorrow.


I've also put mason jars in the hot tub for a day, then rinsed them to get the chlorine smell off the jars.


----------



## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

I stack my honey that is starting to crystalize in a high tech lazyboy recliner box. In that box i have a light fixture with a hundred watt bulb shining on a metal plate suspended in the middle of the box. The light is plugged into a thermostatically switched powerstrip set at 100 degrees. Works great. Will reliquify a bucket in a few days if it hasn't turned completely solid. An insulated booth would be more efficient but it would take up space I already have full of something else. I can always go get another cardboard furniture box.


----------



## Fuzzy (Aug 4, 2005)

Unless you have a precise stainless tubing setup with discrete heating and cooling sections you will not be able to get the temp and time as specified. 
It takes a long time to heat up and just as long to cool down. 

answers: 
500-700lbs

15-20 gallon stainless tank on legs ( with an installed honey gate) with 300 watts of light below and around the tank.


----------



## lakebilly (Aug 3, 2009)

1lb jar; start a pot boiling turn heat down, remove top(s), put jar in hot water, about 10-15 minutes.

1lb jar in coffee pot w/water, a few hrs.

several 1lb, 2lb in large slow roaster w/an inch of water on low 6-7hrs.

5 gal pale in 7gal galvanized tub (Agway) over turkey cooker propane heat for about 35-45 minutes. 

Getting a couple heating pads to wrap 300 lb holding tank. I will post time after I find out how long it takes.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Phil,
My honey is stored in buckets, 5 gallon plastic buckets. When they crystalize I put three buckets in a tank of water which has a heating element in it. I use that to heat the honey.

I am also, right now, heating a barrel of crystalized Orangeblossom honey w/ a Barrel Belt.

I sell honey in 5 gallon plastic totes. When they crystalize I find that setting the tote in the kitchen sink and putting enuf hot water in the sink to almost float the tote, doing so a cpl times, will loosen up the honey enuf to pour it out into my bottling tank.

What is your crystalized honey in? Buckets? Jars? What?

If your honey is in jars, remove the caps, place the jars on a cookie sheet and put them in the oven at a low temp for a period of time. You'll have to experiment to find what is best.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

sqkcrk said:


> My honey is stored in buckets, 5 gallon plastic buckets. When they crystalize I put three buckets in a tank of water which has a heating element in it. I use that to heat the honey.


And this also drives the plasticizers from the plastic into the honey if you are concerned about a quality product.
This would be an excellant time to combine beekeeping with gardening. Invest in a greenhouse which could be part of a HH to warm your honey by the sun.


----------



## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

My mentor and a friend of his just recycled two upright freezers. A 110v thermostat, a couple of halogen bulbs and they can maintain a temperature within +/- 5-degrees F...not quiet as precise as an egg incubator thermostat but it works great at liquifying crystallized honey. They can do roughly 2-1/2 cases of quart jars in 24 hours with a temperatures ranging from 95F to 105F (they each use different a temperature). The process seems to be slow and gentle on the honey. I'm not sure how long a 5-gallon bucket would take.

Ed


----------



## AstroBee (Jan 3, 2003)

I have a chest freezer that I keep for both heating and cooling tasks. Its used to heat honey, incubate queen cells, and freeze comb. When used as a heater I use 2 incandescent light bulbs plus a small box fan to circulate the air. I use the Ranco ETC-111000-000 Digital Temperature Controller to maintain precise temps. I can heat 4 pails (5 gallons each) of honey at a time. It takes a couple of days to liquefy that quantity honey when set at 105 F.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

I converted an old fridge. I use a milk house heater in it attached to analog thermocouple sold by Kelly. I would rather have slow consistent heat. For barrels I have a similar setup that can hold 2 drums also done with milk house heater. However soon I will be converting that to utilize my outside wood fired boiler.


----------



## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

You could build a tank with a hot water element and thermostat
There is a photo of one I make for a de- greasing tank. On this link

http://mnbbeck.posterous.com/huge-exotic-and-new

Cheap and easy!

This element works well but does need to be wired into a thermostat as it wont shut off until it boils all the water out

http://www.tractorsupply.com/allied-precision-bucket-heater-1000-w-2170534

I've never used these for honey but the tank in the photo has no problem holding water at any temp you choose between 100 and 180. Evaporation is an issue so cover the tank.
Wrapping in insulation will help preserve energy


----------



## hilreal (Aug 16, 2005)

Large electric oven with digital readout. Preheat to 120-140 degrees, put containers in at bedtime, clear in the morning.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird said:


> And this also drives the plasticizers from the plastic into the honey if you are concerned about a quality product.
> This would be an excellant time to combine beekeeping with gardening. Invest in a greenhouse which could be part of a HH to warm your honey by the sun.


I wish you would drop your crusade, thank you.


----------



## lakebilly (Aug 3, 2009)

I was thinking today about a hot water heating element in the bottom of a 55 gal drum, w/ a rack to stack 5 gal pales. A smaller drum (30gal) would be better.


----------



## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

Good quality aquarium heaters go to 95 degrees. Don't use glass or cheap ones they just break.
The brand I use I think are Stealth ( I'll have to look) they cost a bit more.


----------



## New Ky Beekeeper (Jun 27, 2011)

sqkcrk said:


> What is your crystalized honey in? Buckets? Jars? What?
> 
> If your honey is in jars, remove the caps, place the jars on a cookie sheet and put them in the oven at a low temp for a period of time. You'll have to experiment to find what is best.


I have a dozen in jars. I am going to try the oven suggestion. I am also impressed with the number of people who use light bulbs. I guess in 6 months their methods will no longer work because they can't get the old type bulbs....

Phil


----------



## New Ky Beekeeper (Jun 27, 2011)

I'm going to need to get a clean older chest freezer!!! 

Thank you all for the great (and unique) methods of heating large amounts of honey!


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

lakebilly said:


> A smaller drum (30gal) would be better.


cut the top off a hot water tank and you have everything you need. Heating element, temperature control, 30-40 gal...


----------



## THALL (Apr 6, 2010)

Clarifiers work great! From the extractor into the clarifier set at 100 degrees then pumped into a holding tank. My honey house is wood heated so I bottle everything for retail before the cold sets in after that a pail set beside the wood stove works fine for now.


----------



## lakebilly (Aug 3, 2009)

Ace, If I can find one, I may try that. Thx. I have several thermostats from HW heaters. I am sure that a smallish box insulated w/hi R board & a milkhouse heater would work.


----------



## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

New Ky Beekeeper said:


> I'm going to need to get a clean older chest freezer!!!


My mentors both used uprights. They work with mostly quarts and pints but 5-gallon buckets will fit in them, too.

Ed


----------



## xcugat (Mar 4, 2008)

I know the thread was about how to heat honey but why are you heating it? Are you going to filter it through fine filters? Alot of people at least where I am will pay big bucks for "Raw unheated honey" It is what separates my honey from that sold in the stores. If you really need to heat it, maybe the strap heaters for buckets and 55 gallon drums would do the trick for you? http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/5-Gallon-Pail-Heater/productinfo/848/


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Well, I heat honey to strain and bottle it. There is only so much demand for Raw honey.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

Mark makes a great point. I sell all my RAW right off the extractor honey directly after its extracted and the health food store buys a years worth at a time. After that its into general retail shops and those folks dont care to see propolis bee legs and wax in their extracted honey.


----------



## indypartridge (Nov 18, 2004)

Heating pads: good for sore backs and crystalized honey. 
I tend not to label a lot of bottles in advance because heating them in warm water will ruin the label and create more work. On the occasion I do have a few labeled-bottles crystalize, I often just wrap them in a heating pad for a couple hours.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

lakebilly said:


> Ace, If I can find one, I may try that. Thx. I have several thermostats from HW heaters. I am sure that a smallish box insulated w/hi R board & a milkhouse heater would work.


You will have to get rid of the center element which will cut your heat capacity in half. Maybe you should use a big tank and cut it below the center element. Wire it up to 220 to bring the water up to temp and then switch it to 110 to maintain.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

BMAC said:


> After that its into general retail shops and those folks dont care to see propolis bee legs and wax in their extracted honey.


Don't these items just float or settle to the bottom? I don't see any of that in my honey.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird said:


> You will have to get rid of the center element which will cut your heat capacity in half. Maybe you should use a big tank and cut it below the center element. Wire it up to 220 to bring the water up to temp and then switch it to 110 to maintain.


Or you could check Maxant, Kelley Co, Dadant, and Mann Lake to see what they have for warming tanks, often called Grocers Tanks. This is a water bath tank, made of stainless steel, which has a heating element in it to heat water. The one I have holds three 5 gallon buckets at a time. Or, as many jars as you can fit in a similar space. Though I have never use it for liquifying jars of crystallized honey.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird said:


> Don't these items just float or settle to the bottom? I don't see any of that in my honey.


Some float, some sink. Things heavier than honey and wax sink. If you extract into a tank you can keep some of that stuff out of your RAW honey.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

Acebird said:


> You will have to get rid of the center element which will cut your heat capacity in half. Maybe you should use a big tank and cut it below the center element. Wire it up to 220 to bring the water up to temp and then switch it to 110 to maintain.


Sounds like an aweful lot of work to warm honey. The fridge I setup took me 30 minutes to set it up and I have been using it the past 8 years. The hotbox I setup for drums took me 4 hours and been using it the last 6 years.

It sounds like to cut the top off a hotwater heater, play with elements, hook up 220 (assuming you dont have an open circuit breaker for 30 amp 220 now) warm the water and then convert it to 110 sounds like an all day or more affair and you still only have a large bucket of hot water to set jars in.

Old fridge = free
thermostat controller = 60-70 bucks
milk house heater = 10 bucks


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

Acebird said:


> Don't these items just float or settle to the bottom? I don't see any of that in my honey.


Im game. Yes it does float and yes nails will sink. What does that have to do with sending honey to the grocers?


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

BMAC said:


> Old fridge = free
> thermostat controller = 60-70 bucks
> milk house heater = 10 bucks


Don't need anywhere near 30 amps 
Old hot water tank = free
thermostat = free
Dryer cord plug = 15 bucks
3 way switch = 8 bucks



> What does that have to do with sending honey to the grocers?


You don’t have to heat and filter to keep the unwanted parts out.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

Acebird said:


> You don’t have to heat and filter to keep the unwanted parts out.


You talk from great experience. Educate me.

All this time I have been wasting time heating my honey to filter and bottle?


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

No, I don't think that is where time wasting is occuring.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

BMAC said:


> You talk from great experience. Educate me.


Is this a trick question? Raise your spigot in the storage vat so it doesn't draw from the bottom. How much honey do you bottle at one time?


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

Acebird said:


> Is this a trick question? Raise your spigot in the storage vat so it doesn't draw from the bottom. How much honey do you bottle at one time?


excellent in theory. How much experience do you have with packing honey to stores?


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

None with honey but about a million gals of medical gell each year for the last 23 years.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

where does this medical gel come from? 

Certainly not from a hive. Does this come into the for of totes, 6K gallon storage tanks?


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Manufactured on site, packaged and sent all over the world. Most went into finished products. I think we are getting off topic so lets handle any further questions off line.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

You are exactly correct sir. I'm not sure how packing med gel gives you insight on packing honey, which is my point.

I don't think moving my spigot to the center of my bottling vessel is going to cut it.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

LOL, you got a 1/2 barrel of crap in your honey? Two inches is more than enough.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

What say you come work for me fulltime packing honey to the stores so you can get a real education?


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

If you are packing honey full time I would like to take a look at your operation. I know I can help you. There are always things that you overlook when your concern is day to day production.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

I hardly knew I was that ignorant. Im so honored to have someone of your knowledge and capabilities so close. 

Ok enough with my sarcasm. I appreciate your thoughts and I am sure you are Ok at your regular job. I will continue to perform my regular job as well. This will include packing honey the same way I have been packing honey. This will include heating and filtering.

Don't take this the wrong way but when it comes time for me to change my packing routine you can bet I am not going to take the advice from someone who doesn't have the first clue about packing honey for stores. Less of course you are going to create me a complete automated packing line and donate it to me. Then I might actual consider listening.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

I am not insulted but I do recognize that your attitude is why most things are not produced in this country anymore. Whether you work in a peanut plant, fudge plant or waste treatment plant there are many similarities. Do you think we landed on the moon because we had experience in lunar travel?


----------



## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

Acebird,

Why don't you try to help someone else, or better yet, help yourself. There's a lot of more interesting arguments in the archives than the ones you're engaged in.

You are one of the top 30 posters on Beesource now. :applause:

I would suggest that you read some of the old threads of other top contributors. If you like debates, I suggest you glean through postings of Jim Fischer and BjornBee.


----------



## HONEYDEW (Mar 9, 2007)

If I read the beginning correctly nobody cares how anyone bottles their honey it sounds like they want info on how to re-liquefy solid honey.....many good ways been talked about, BUT, hot tub !!!!! do I hear banjos playing in the background come on GROSS........inch:


----------



## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

http://www.columbusalive.com/content/graphics/2011/09/21/********/07BanjoKid.jpg?__scale=w:220,h:165
Banjo Boy picking and grinning watching his honey warm in the hot tub...


----------



## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

Acebird said:


> Do you think we landed on the moon because we had experience in lunar travel?


Acebird, you crack me up sometimes. I think I understand what you are trying to get across, that sometimes an outside entity can bring in new ideas, improvements, and greater efficiencies to a process that is in a "we've always done it this way" rut. However, that person needs to first thoroughly understand the current process. 

The men and women who got us to the moon were experts in aeronautical engineering, and they took it to the next level to get us from jet aircraft to space, and then to the moon. The team did not go out and recruit an authorized GM auto mechanic to come in and evaluate their design and process. They got fresh ideas from others within the industry. 

With your background I'm sure you believe you could add efficiencies to the packing process, and perhaps one day you could. But at this stage I think you would do well to set a goal to first understand the existing business completely before trying to critique and add value to the current process. 

Your activity here is appreciated though, you're posts are providing some very interesting and typically civil banter through the "cabin fever" winter season.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Mike Gillmore said:


> However, that person needs to first thoroughly understand the current process.


That would be the purpose to go out and see it, feel it, do it, which I would always be willing to do at no cost. Did I ask for a penny from Mark when I went, saw, and did lend a hand? NO. Will I end up helping his friend that owns the extracting equipment? Yes. Will I ask for payment. NO.

You beekeepers are a rare breed for sure. Can I ask you what makes you think that you know everything that there is to know about the equipment you use because you keep bees?


----------



## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

Acebird,

How many different manufacturing environments do you have experience in?


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I was a little surprised you didn't spend anymore time w/ us then you did. I thought you were coming to spend the day. Jon enjoyed all the time you spent talking w/ him. Next time come early and stay late. Lunch provided by the one whose honey is being spun. 

Probably the same thing which makes someone w/ almost no experience thinking they know something about the equipment we use and have used for years and years.

Is it necassary to know everything there is to know about ones' equipment in order to get out of it what you want or need? I know next to nothing about my truck and van. 

Hmm. Maybe it shows. ?


----------



## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

Acebird said:


> Can I ask you what makes you think that you know everything that there is to know about the equipment you use because you keep bees?


Where did I make that claim? 

I have enough humility to realize that even though I've been at this for many years, my expertise is limited to my own personal experience. I have no business trying to tell anyone how to improve their operation if I don't thoroughy understand it.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Mike Gillmore said:


> They got fresh ideas from others within the industry.


You assume that to be true. Much of the brain power came from university students who had zero experience in the industry. Much of the labor came from all walks of life, maybe even an auto mechanic. Many had no idea what the end result would be used for as a result of their efforts. Some had no idea what they were really working on but they were good at what they did. Mark went to an auto mechanic when his truck broke down without asking him how much experience he had working on bee trucks.
I wonder if the people at Maxant and Datant who build those extractors know every aspect of Joe Blows bee business before they are allowed to suggest improvements.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Nothing specialized about a bee truck. I went to the Certified Ford Dealership Shop.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Well that is kind of my point. There is nothing specialized about packaging equipment when you have seen a lot of different kinds. Filling machines, boxing machines, conveyors, robots, dispensing machines, these are all used in all kinds of industry.
I admit there is not a lot of wiggle room for a one man operation unless it frees up your time and effort so you can comfortably expand to that 1000 colony operation. Is this the extent of the beekeeping industry, a dozen or so operations with less then 10 employees? I don't know, I am asking.


----------



## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

Acebird said:


> Much of the brain power came from university students who had zero experience in the industry.


I'm sure that's true, but those inexperienced graduates had in depth knowledge and degrees in the sciences related to the segment of the industry they became involved in. They certainly did not assign a Political Science major to oversee the Engineering Dept.




> I wonder if the people at Maxant and Datant who build those extractors know every aspect of Joe Blows bee business before they are allowed to suggest improvements.


They better. If they don't understand the needs of the end user and the ramifications it has on their process then their modifications may be for naught or could possibly be counterproductive.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I only know maybe one beekeeping operation in NY w/ 10 employees. And he probably has more than ten, having 10,000 colonies to his name.

One guy I know has maybe 6 fulltime employees and as many part time people too, from time to time, depending on what needs done and availability. In NY.

Most of the rest have fewer employees than that and fewer colonies too. The 500 per person "rule" just about applys across the board, manpowerwise. Maybe 750. Cause the more experienced people you have to draw on the more they can do together.

But, you don't want to be away too much when important things are being done. There are people who will load bees in the middle of the day so they can get home early. That's not good.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

There is nothing specialized about honey packing equipment. Funny you mention just that. I looked at a medical packing equipment being sold on the auction block. It was a programmable fill station. Not a complete automated system like I have seen some packers use but a single fill you hold the jar below the fill head machine. When I looked at it the price was 100 bucks. That is something I would be willing to buy and alter to my needs. However once the price exceeded $700.00 I walked away.

You sir (meaning Ace) don't understand the purpose of filtering the honey. You ASSUME that settling the honey is good enough. Maybe it is good enough for you and your future stores. When I put my name on that label I will filter my honey prior to bottling it and placing it on the shelf in the stores that buy my honey. 


Maybe you have some valid ideas that can benefit. When you just placed 1/2 thoughts or less than 1/2 thoughts here it doesn't serve any other purpose than pure entertainment.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Mike Gillmore said:


> They certainly did not assign a Political Science major to oversee the Engineering Dept.


Agreed. Do you think I was a Political Science major?

What if this said employee was a top notch welder and figured out a way to cut two hours off the manufacture of their extractors. Would he still be required to understand the needs of the end user before said company would use his idea?
I understand the need for experience to be good at what you do. It is because of my experiences that I offer off the top of my head suggestions. I am not telling anyone to do anything that they feel is detrimental to their way of doing things. It is just food for thought. What I find a little bit on the ignorant side is an attitude of what could you know, your not a beekeeper. I know that is not how we got to the moon with that attitude.


----------



## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

I'll ask again, what is your experience and education?


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

BMAC said:


> You sir (meaning Ace) don't understand the purpose of filtering the honey. You ASSUME that settling the honey is good enough. Maybe it is good enough for you and your future stores. When I put my name on that label I will filter my honey prior to bottling it and placing it on the shelf in the stores that buy my honey.


I think I do understand the purpose of filtering honey and I do realize that unfiltered honey is not for everyone. Do you realize that if you considered some of my suggestions on how to draw off the honey you would not get as much contaminates going to your filter so they would last longer and maybe just maybe not take as much heat or pressure to push the honey through. To you the ideas are half thoughts, maybe so. Many of them in the past have resulted in millions of dollar savings for the past companies I have worked for. No one is twisting your arm to use any of my half baked ideas.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

You may also be suggesting something which is not uncommon in honey processing, having the exit port higher than the tank bottom.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

BeeCurious said:


> I'll ask again, what is your experience and education?


My education is primarily school of hard knocks. My experiences go on for quite a long list. I can't imagine why you would want my resume and I am certainly not going to post it here.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

sqkcrk said:


> You may also be suggesting something which is not uncommon in honey processing, having the exit port higher than the tank bottom.


I would think it would be common so why the hard time? The 700 dollar limit on a filling machine told me allot about his operation.


----------



## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

Acebird said:


> My education is primarily school of hard knocks. My experiences go on for quite a long list. I can't imagine why you would want my resume and I am certainly not going to post it here.


So you are not a process or industrial engineer?


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Well you did seem to be suggesting something which may or may not be what is going on in BMACs' honey packing. I did think it was somewhat odd to suggest raising the port to sucha heigth as you seemed to. Even only an inch would be adequate.

My Maxant Bottling tanks have a gate which emptys the tank. But, most sump tanks and clarifiers have an exit hole raised up off the floor of the unit so heavy items like nails don't go thru the pump and, if they are used, the filter basket.

Sevenhundred dollars as a limit could tell one a number of things. Were I to come across such an item at that price I would want to see it first hand, not over the internet. I would have to decide whether it would fit into my operation.


----------



## Barry Digman (May 21, 2003)

BeeCurious said:


> If you like debates, I suggest you glean through postings of Jim Fischer and BjornBee.


Oh yeah, those turned out well...

I do think that if we were to gather in upstate New York on a summer afternoon that we'd find out that we had much to learn from each other and we'd have a great time. Acebird would buy the beer and we'd grill some hamburgers, talk bees and gear till midnight, and part friends.


----------



## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

Acebird said:


> What if this said employee was a top notch welder and figured out a way to cut two hours off the manufacture of their extractors. Would he still be required to understand the needs of the end user before said company would use his idea?


Once again, they better.

Would the adjustments made to reduce welding time compromise the integrity of the finished product? Was it necessary to cut corners to achieve the savings, and how will that impact the performance or longevity of the extractor? If it required structural modifications, how will that impact the operator?

If the welder did not fully understand the end user's position, how could he answer these questions.


----------



## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Mike Gillmore said:


> If you do not fully understand the end user's position, how could you answer these questions.


It would be answered by someone else in the organization that would know the ramifications. That person person might not know a tinkers **** about welding and most likely would rely somewhat on the expertise of the welder as far as structure goes. If you micro manage your business you limit its potential. Good ideas come from everyone.

Beecourious, there were times when I have done tasks that would be considered process, manufacturing, industrial, project, supervisory, and field service engineering. I have a strong background in pneumatics, mechanical design and a good taste of hydraulics, electrics and minor skills in programming.


----------



## kjbann (Jun 30, 2009)

Not sure if the original question is relevant on this thread anymore, but my hot box is 2' x 4' x 2' high built of 2" styrofoam.Top and bottom sheets are not attached to side structure. Sides are glued and screwed with 6" screws with washers at the corners. Two 100 watt bulbs and a small fan reside in a 5" x 13" x 8" high aluminum box attached inside one end. On the outside is mounted a Ranco temperature control and two fan control switches to control heat level and fan speed. Other than the ~$50 temp. control, most of the rest was laying around. The Ranco gives very precise control and the fan switch for the lamps is experimentally set to keep them on a low setting that prevents too frequent switching on and off which would shorten bulb life. I've measured the electrical usage and it runs about 1/10 kwh per hour of operation or about a penny per hour at my costs. It holds three buckets easily and lots of bottles. I left the sides and bottom separate because I envisioned setting the side assembly down over buckets instead of lifting them in. In practice, I've never done that. It works very well and would handle a much larger operation than my 15 +/- hives. The only problem is I haven't decided what I'll do when the gov't in its infinite wisdom will no longer let me use incandescent bulbs.

We extract into buckets through one of the stainless steel screens sold by the equipment vendors and our honey is always crystal clear after a day or so of settling at room temperature. We don't sell to stores though.

Ken


----------



## AstroBee (Jan 3, 2003)

kjbann,

You said "...and the fan switch for the lamps is experimentally set to keep them on a low setting that prevents too frequent switching..." I'm not quite sure how you've set up your system. I too run the Ranco, but I plug both the lights and the fan into the controller, so the controller cycles both. As you probably know, the Ranco controller has a differential range from 1 - 30 degrees, so as to significantly eliminate rapid switching.


----------



## kjbann (Jun 30, 2009)

I use a 3 degree differential. Power goes through the Ranco, then splits to each of the two fan control switches then to the lamps on one branch and the fan on the other so the Ranco is the master control. I have a toggle switch ahead of the Ranco so I can turn the whole works on and off without changing the fan control switches once I have them set the way I want. The programmed differential controls the difference between the on and off set points and I like to keep it fairly tight. I run about 110 to 115 degrees usually. Generally buckets are left in for a couple of days, and jars overnight. I think I run about 80 watts total input and that keeps the bulbs on for a little while before they cycle off. If you use a large differential, then you don't have very precise temperature control. Hope this helps.
Ken


----------



## Ben Brewcat (Oct 27, 2004)

In my hot tub. I put the bucket in double heavy-duty trash bags (never had a leak, either of honey or water, but insurance makes for peace of mind). Lots of thermal mass, constant temperature, never overheats. It's a little slow for a full crystallized bucket, but slow is better than too fast/too hot.


----------



## HONEYDEW (Mar 9, 2007)

Intheswamp said:


> Banjo Boy picking and grinning watching his honey warm in the hot tub...


 Oh no you didn't !! I am glad there are those with a good sense of humor sometimes on here, I fell out of my chair when I clicked to see whats new..Loved the pic have a great night thanks....


----------

