# Top bar length



## SowthEfrikan (Mar 2, 2015)

Hello, yes, I understand exactly what you inted to do but am not sure why you think you need an overhang? I don't see why it would make it easier to remove. The bees will fill the gaps between the bars with propolis and you will have to cut through it (I use a breadknife and always cut as vertically as possible to avoid breaking comb) to release each bar. I would not just pick each bar up on the sides using the extra length to pop the hive open, if that was your thinking. Why do you think it might be easier? More of a handhold?


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## dudelt (Mar 18, 2013)

All of mine are flush with the sides. To break the propolis and loosen the bars I run the hive tool under the bars across the top of each side of the hive body. This loosens them up so they are easy to remove and inspect. I believe having the overhang would make that a little more difficult. I cannot see any reason it would not work just fine. This is one of the great things about the top bar hives, you can do what ever you want and what is easiest for you. There may be a good reason not to but I can't think of it.


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## SowthEfrikan (Mar 2, 2015)

dudelt said:


> This is one of the great things about the top bar hives, you can do what ever you want and what is easiest for you. There may be a good reason not to but I can't think of it.


As a PS, what kind of a roof are you planning? My hives all have hinged roofs that fit flush to the hive, and I love the roofs. No picking up and moving anything. That might not be possible with overhanging top bars.


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## Delta Bay (Dec 4, 2009)

A little over hang is good so you have something to hang onto when replacing the bars after inspections. You will find it very helpful when replacing up to four bars at a time. 1/2" would be more than enough though.


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## Phirstgeer (Mar 6, 2015)

Yes. After making sure the comb is free from the hive body and top bar free from propolis. I think it would be a little easier grabbing the frames if they were past the hive body by at least an inch. Thanks for the bread knife info. Sounds like a great cheap tool for top bars. I live in Lafayette Ca. It doesn't get too cold here. I was going to use a piece of coregated fiberglass for the top and secure it with a piece of rope. Thanks for the heads up on the hinged roof. That's a great idea, and would not work with my extended top bars. My wife is already frustrated with the amount of money I've spent, keeping bees, so I'm trying to do it on the cheap. Thanks for all of the advice.


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## dudelt (Mar 18, 2013)

I also use the fiberglass roofing panels tied down with ropes. They are cheap and work really well. I tried the roof option once and really hated it. I removed it after about four weeks. It looked beautiful but I could only work on one side of the hive and either it blocked the sunshine or I was blocking the sunshine when inspecting the hive. It always seemed to be in my way. Other beeks don't seem to mind them but it was not for me.


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## Cabin (Nov 30, 2014)

Phirstgeer said:


> 2nd year beekeeper. Going to top bars after gobbling up a Costco size bottle of ibuprofen working my Langstroth hives. Building my own hive. Wondering if I should make the top bars longer than the width of the hive, by maybe 1.5 inches, over each side. Wouldn't this make it easier to remove the bars from the hive? I've looked at several plans and they all have the top bars resting flush with side of the hive body. Hopefully I've given a good description of my question. Thanks


Since you have langs did you look into making a long lang?? You could use your existing frames.


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## richr58 (Jul 23, 2014)

Phirstgeer said:


> Yes. After making sure the comb is free from the hive body and top bar free from propolis. I think it would be a little easier grabbing the frames if they were past the hive body by at least an inch. Thanks for the bread knife info. Sounds like a great cheap tool for top bars. I live in Lafayette Ca. It doesn't get too cold here. I was going to use a piece of coregated fiberglass for the top and secure it with a piece of rope. Thanks for the heads up on the hinged roof. That's a great idea, and would not work with my extended top bars. "My wife is already frustrated with the amount of money I've spent, keeping bees, so I'm trying to do it on the cheap." Thanks for all of the advice.


I was keeping track of ALL the money I have spent in the last 3 years as a beginner been, hives, packages, books, more books, and one more books, sausage press to press my honey, and not one jar of honey sold yet, My wife says to me, do you try to recover money on any of your other hobbies,


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## richr58 (Jul 23, 2014)

Oh yeah and I'm building my first KTH this year, very excited, my overlap on the top bar is just the width of the outsides of the box. My top does have over lap.

2 years Warre ( still learning ) but thrilled to play with bee everyday.


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## Phirstgeer (Mar 6, 2015)

Thanks Rich. I think it's beyond a hobby. It's now an addiction!


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## richr58 (Jul 23, 2014)

P
I have to agree, my book shows me 1350.00 into my 4 Warre, and one KTBH, I have lost bees with winter, and one package absconded days after install.
I spend more time in my yard then in the house once the weather is nice. Im thankful for an understanding wife.

I have to correct, I have about 150.00 in honey put up from a failed Warre this last weekend, now I just need to find buyers, ( before I eat it )


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## Phirstgeer (Mar 6, 2015)

Cabin said:


> Since you have langs did you look into making a long lang?? You could use your existing frames.


I did consider it but my wife was afraid they would look like coffins in the yard. She has a point.


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## Phirstgeer (Mar 6, 2015)

richr58 said:


> I was keeping track of ALL the money I have spent in the last 3 years as a beginner been, hives, packages, books, more books, and one more books, sausage press to press my honey, and not one jar of honey sold yet, My wife says to me, do you try to recover money on any of your other hobbies,


Is your sausage press effective? I've looked at fruit presses. Do you think it's worth the money?


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

I made anouther long lang today. I made it the depth of a medium and 48" long.

I plan to use regular medium lang frames and did the ledge cut into the board for the frames to sit on. I cut them a bit deeper then you would if making a normal super. This gives me just a bit over 1/4 inch bee space above the frames to when I put the boards above that to close up the hive. I will probly lay a piece of tin over it all with a couple peices of fire wood or something for weight.

I don't know how it is going to work but I love the ideal of being able to interchange frames in everything I own.
Good luck
gww


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## Phirstgeer (Mar 6, 2015)

gww said:


> I made anouther long lang today. I made it the depth of a medium and 48" long.
> 
> I plan to use regular medium lang frames and did the ledge cut into the board for the frames to sit on. I cut them a bit deeper then you would if making a normal super. This gives me just a bit over 1/4 inch bee space above the frames to when I put the boards above that to close up the hive. I will probly lay a piece of tin over it all with a couple peices of fire wood or something for weight.
> 
> ...


That's a great idea. Anything to save the squishy space between my vertebrae. I'm not getting any younger and this bee addiction will probably last until I'm 6 ft under. Thanks for the advice.


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## Sovek (Apr 27, 2014)

Long Langs are the compromise between TBH's and standard Langs. Even a Tanzanian TBH built to lang specs would be a good idea (cept for the fact that its all rectangular, if you're looking for asthetics, this aint it) as you may need help from a local beek in the way of brood or something, and all you would have to do is drop the frame in and a 1 3/8"s top bar on top of it. 

I'm building two long langs this year because I'm looking to sell overwintered nucs and even some honey so I need equipment that can interchange with most beeks. I can even transfer that to top bars due to my experience last year managing one. If I get a customer that shoots me an e-mail stating that he wants a nuc for a TBH, all I have to do is build an internal adapter that I can drop in, a couple frames with a queen and let them go at. Should be ready by mid-late april depending.


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## marshmasterpat (Jun 26, 2013)

Instead of a sausage press or fruit press try this route. Go to Lowes and buy two of the plastic food grade buckets. Then buy a bag type paint strainer for a 5 gallon bucket. Cut the lower 1/3 out of one plastic bucket, put the strainer on that bucket and set this on top of second bucket. Put on some nitrile gloves, and do the crush and squeeze method. Really effective I would think with a TBH since you will not likely be harvesting large volumes at once. Did almost 4 gallons easily. 

Then put the crushed comb back in the yard and watch the bees clean it up. 

Save those dollars for building hives or equipment.


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## Phirstgeer (Mar 6, 2015)

Thanks. That seems like a great economical way to go.


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## richr58 (Jul 23, 2014)

I think the sausage press was great. I like to squeeze all the honey I can before the mash goes out to the bees and then the melter. I was tired of the mondo mess and the press made it way neater. Got an antique in a junk shop cheap.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I'm in a very windy area and I find any overhang will catch the wind and cause more water to blow in and sometimes cause the entire hive to flip over. In the case of covers it often causes the cover to blow off...


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## Duncan151 (Aug 3, 2013)

I like the over hang on top bars, that way the ends do not get sticky with propolis, and I have handles for picking up and placing bars. You do have to gently grab the bars though and feel for any bees that might be under the bar and out of sight. This problem gets worse the closer you get to the entrance, if you use a top entrance.


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