# Styrofoam 5 nuc plans



## B Reeves (Oct 2, 2009)

thanks


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Thanks, but there are better, more useable such nuc boxes available through the Supply outlets like Mann Lake, Dadant and Betterbee. And probably others.

I'm all in favor of Do it yourself, when one can or wants to, but I also believe in buying what is already available when it is practical to do so. I don't have the time, whereas others might. So, it's good you posted this here.


----------



## camero7 (Sep 21, 2009)

IMO - if these will hold up they are so much cheaper than the poly nucs available from supply stores. I'm going to try some this fall to winter nucs in my climate. I figure they will cost about $3.00 each and the only styro nucs I could find were over $25.00. Seems like they will be easy to make and assemble. Only question for me is durability. I think I'll coat the inside with something to keep the bees from chewing on them.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

What R U going to do about Comdensation and Ventalation?


----------



## camero7 (Sep 21, 2009)

I'll use upper entrances and modify the top so it's more like a migratory cover. Also, I'll be able to feed syrup on the bottom in the fall. Easier than cans/bottles. Latshaw used EPS nucs over the winter without moisture buildup.

http://www.latshawapiaries.com/wintering_nucs.htm


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I noticed that Latshaw has screen covered holes high up on one end and down low on another. That would probably take care of moisture and venelation. Good that you're thinking about that.


----------



## camero7 (Sep 21, 2009)

I'm planning to reverse his holes and put the screened hole at the back, down low. I have too many problems with skunks and I like the top entrance in the winter. All my wooden nucs have top entrances and they are doing great this winter, even though we're having record snow.


----------



## Taylors_Bees (Jan 17, 2011)

:doh: u can use a piece of landscape fabrice on the top hive body the fabrice will help wick moisture away and prevent the top from sticking to the hive body


----------



## brushmouth (Jan 17, 2010)

Thank's Taylors_Bees (helpful plans)

A couple of modifications I tried last year:
Built these with 3/4 *HIGH DENSITY STYROFOAM* last year.
(because its pink or blue does not mean that it's high density)
They will not chew the high density as readily.
(found out when I used regular styrofoam to make replacement cover
that had blown off and broke/no paint)
Hot glue works very well. 

I spray *paint inside and out *with a quality exterior latex. (several coats)
No paint and they will chew on the styro, no problem with painted.
Let them dry in the sun several days open so the out-gas is gone.

I used piece of *3/8 plywood *glued to the styrofoam ends on the inside and 3/4" short of the top.
Forms a ledge for the frame to set on/proper beespace for my migratory tops,
and holds the single bolt for the regular round plastic nuc entrances that I use. 

Vent hole is 1-1/4 on the *rear top near one side* (so draft stays away from
the brood.) I use a hole saw and glue screen over the inside.
Remember to place heavy weight on them. :doh:

Cheap, Useful and Sturdy Enough

BM


----------



## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

It seems to me that since the ends are supporting the weight of the frames that they should be full width. Especially the front, otherwise the frame weight is totally supported by the screws and glue. 

If I made these, I would consider gluing a sheet of luan to the sheet of styrofoam before starting the cuts. The luan would provide a wooden interior and add strength to the assembly.

At a minimum, I would have the sides butt into the ends...

Thanks for posting the plans.


----------



## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I have 15 two story 5 frame wooden nucs and 10 single story 5 frame wooden nucs, here at home in the North Country, in the snow, on warehouse pallets, side by side and the singles stacked on each other. So that's two pallets worth.

I just got back from checking some to see how many are alive. I didn't want to open all of them, just to check them. It is about 38 degrees on my front porch. 

I checked 3 singles and 3 dbls and found one single dead.

I haven't used styrofoam nuc boxes. The only experience I have had w/ them was a few years ago when a friend shipped some north from SC, because the guy who ordered the nucs had sent the boxes to be filled. Most of them overheated and died.

I have used wooden nuc boxes for a cpl decades now and they fit my way of working w/ nucs. The wood seems to have adequate R-Value for my purposes. But, maybe if I were planning on having live nucs overwinter in northern NY every year, I might consider styrofoam boxes a good idea.

I know an Amish Beekeeper who has the styrofoam(or whatever they are made of) hives. They seem to work well for him. But most folks I know up here have wooden hives and some wrap them and some don't.

I guess, as is true w/ lots of things in life, it depends on what one is exposed to that seems to work and they find fits their style that is what one ends up[ finding useful and appealing.

Since I have what I have, I'll probably stick w/ wood. Thanks for exposing me to something different.


----------



## brushmouth (Jan 17, 2010)

BeeCurious said:


> It seems to me that since the ends are supporting the weight of the frames that they should be full width. Especially the front, otherwise the frame weight is totally supported by the screws and glue.
> 
> If I made these, I would consider gluing a sheet of luan to the sheet of styrofoam before starting the cuts. The luan would provide a wooden interior and add strength to the assembly.
> 
> ...


See my earlier post page one.
Pc of 3/8 plywood or plain wood inside accomplishes, I butt into
the sides and the end corners. The styro ends are covering the end of the 
side. I glue the plywood into a bed of glue in the corners, top & bottom.
Results in a VERY strong boxed assembly. You have to work quick and
when it cools it's OVER. 

Screws are of NO value at all, regular glue weak, brittle like.
I tried both and then bought a cheap 2- temp glue gun.

I use hot glue, 100% safe and tuff.

BM


----------



## Beagler (Aug 18, 2008)

What is the best way to make cuts on the thicker insulation board?


----------



## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

Beagler said:


> What is the best way to make cuts on the thicker insulation board?


A table saw


----------



## slickbrightspear (Jan 9, 2009)

nice plans thanks


----------



## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

Great plans. I built some like this and had ventilation issues even with a screened hole in the back.

I had horrible problems with possums turning my nucs over and pulling out the frames. I'd go out at night and jack light those little devils but they invited all their kin folk over for the feast. I couldn't make a dent in the population and they basically killed my styro project.

Next winter, a solar-powered electric fence.

Grant
Jackson, MO


----------



## camero7 (Sep 21, 2009)

Grant,

I wondered about the ventilation problems in them when it's warm. I had several wood nucs overheat this August. Were your problems mainly in the warmth? I was thinking I might put a plywood migratory cover on them with a upper entrance until it gets cold.


----------

