# 5 frame double nuc



## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

I was wondering if anyone has plans on a deep 5 frame nuc box with a solid divider. I want to make a deep 10 frame box divide it with a solid board but both sides hold 5 frames. Then above it I can add single 5 frame boxes on top when needed. So the bottom brood box will have to be a little wider than a regular 10 frame box. Just wondering if anyone has made them and has the dimensions I need or if any place out there has the dimensions?


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## Riskybizz (Mar 12, 2010)

More commonly a standard 10 frame deep brood box is divided down the middle leaving adequate space for 4 frames on each side. 4 frame nucs are then placed on top. I create 1- 1/2" dividers in mine.


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## Eikel (Mar 12, 2014)

Dimensions will depend on the size of your divider. If you use 1/8" luan as the divider you can fit five frames on each side but it's tight; in each side you essentially have to slide one of the top bars against the side of the box. Determine the thickness of your divider and add two bee spaces, there's your extra width requirement.


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

I want to use a 1/2 in plywood divider or a regular 1 by board. So what your saying is to add .5 inch plus 3/8+3/8 and that would be my xtra inches.


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

Riskybizz said:


> More commonly a standard 10 frame deep brood box is divided down the middle leaving adequate space for 4 frames on each side. 4 frame nucs are then placed on top. I create 1- 1/2" dividers in mine.


the same for me but i use a 7/8 divider in a deep 10 made out of all 7/8. i leave the scoop style hand holds out when making the ends. rabbit joint corners. dado cut for the partision, the whole thing screwed and glued. these are rugged 4 by 4 boxes. the trouble with a 5 by 5 is that the center partison is too thin and it will allow the bees to mix with a queen battle, the thin centers does not work for stacking at all.


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

Eikel said:


> Dimensions will depend on the size of your divider.


I don't think so, I believe it the reverse
in this case the OP's goal is to stack 5f nucs on the deep, so the bottom box's width should be 2X the nucs width so they all fit, from there figger out the divider

Another thought for the OP, I just picked up a few nucs as part of a larger craigslist deal, they were made with 1/2 ply sides, holds 5 frames and fit perfectly on 10f boxes, i just went out and measured and they are an even 7"ID, so they might be a smidge tight but the original owner was foundationless.

what is the perceived advantage to making a non standard size Hive body compared to just running 4f nucs?


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

Use 1/2 inch plywood for the outside walls. You gain the 3/8 needed as typical walls are 7/8. Just checked dimensions of a two/three queen castle I built out of 1/2 plywood and inside is 15 9/16. Have a 7/16 divider. There is ample room for 5 frames on each side. There is more than adequate room to make space to pull the first frame.

IMHO, I think you should keep outside dimensions same as your supers. Specialized sizes are a nuisance. The least amount of sizes and more universal components, makes beekeeping less complicated. 

What if you want to add a queen excluder and want to super the two NUCs? Components will kind of fit.

What if you want to go to two double deep 5 frame NUCs to winter NUCs?


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

The supers on top will be normal size 5 frame nucs from 1×12 board. The bottom deep is really the only custom size build. And bottom board.


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## tech.35058 (Jul 29, 2013)

mgolden said:


> snip ...
> 
> Specialized sizes are a nuisance. The least amount of sizes and more universal components, makes beekeeping less complicated.


Amen.


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

Billboard said:


> The supers on top will be normal size 5 frame nucs from 1×12 board. The bottom deep is really the only custom size build. And bottom board.


Then the bottom deep is simply twice the width of the nucs. The length and height are standard deep dimensions. You can use a 1x (3/4") or 2x (1 1/2") for your divider in the bottom. 2x will line up on the insides of the two upper nucs.


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## yotebuster1200 (Jul 28, 2013)

I think a standard 1 frame deep with a 1.5 divider on the bottom box will allow you to insert 5 frames if the end bars a 1.25" with an extra 3/8" to remove frames


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

I know odd sizes are a hassle. But its not for me im making it for someone. And like i said only the bottom wont be standard size. The rest will. Yes i think i will measure 2 side by side nucs and use that measurement and use a standard 1 by for the divider. Once its done it will winter 3 deeps. The bottom deep and 2 deep 5 frame nucs on top. With 1 telescopic cover for both. Yes each will have a inner cover.


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## GZB (Jan 29, 2013)

Your divider should then be 1.5" to match the thickness of the two 3/4" box sides supported above. I made mine with luan and a tee on top, but it's a problem when the comb is built into the space under the tee. You'll also want thin block-off plates for the two inner cover hand holes: When you open one side, you can block off the other.

Running 4 frame divided boxes is nearly as good as 5 frame, but the more narrow half boxes are harder to find than true 5 frame boxes.


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

If i go with a 1.5 inch divider board and it looks like i have too. This is just a question here could i use that 1.5 rigid foam board? Will the bees chew it up? I got 2x12 i can use too or two 1 inch boards side by side. Just thought the foam would be better insulating.


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

foam board is chewing amusement for bees, in an over winter situation the 2 clusters tend to be against the divider to share warmth. you do not want insulation.


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

Billboard said:


> only the bottom won't be standard size. The rest will. *snip * With 1 telescopic cover for both. Yes each will have a inner cover.


 I think the cover will be a special build as well. The only advantage I see here is if the person you are building this for has a lot of standard 5f nucs all ready vs making 4fs one, at that point why not just make a double bottom board (and cover) and put 2 nucs side by side on it and skip the odd sized deep box, one less thing to build


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

Im getting paid for it so hes the boss. I think he wants to try something. And yes the cover will be custom too. But if it comes out nice i might make some for me too. It doesn't sound that bad. Ok then a foam divider is out. Just a thought.


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

I take my router and a jig board and make a 1/2" groove on both inner ends of a deep box as deep as the frame rest on the box. I fill with a half inch plywood wall as deep as the box. I build a bottom board by taking a 19 7/8" X 16 1/4" half inch cdx plywood piece. On each end I attach a 1 1/2" X 1/2" X 16 1/4 inch stiffener/bottom leg. I glue and staple a 3/4" X 1/4" X 19 7/8" piece to each side and exactly in the middle. I fill completely one side of the rim on each side and leave an 1 1/2" on the other for an entrance. THis way the bottom board is divided and each sides entrance is at opposite end. I feed thru a queen excluder in a feeder rim. I often just super both over a queen excluder with a standard deep box. When the comb is drawn and full of honey, I extract the honey and put those drawn combs in a divided deep of the same patent and let the two nucs refill the comb from a flow or more often feed the combs full thru an excluder to keep both queens separated. In the following spring, I move each to their own standard hive bodies. I am able to fit five frames on each side but I routinely shave all my top bars to 1 1/4" 

I am contemplating making MP style four frame boxes to divide the second story as keeping the queens separated is problematic when working my contraption at two stories. I am going to cut some old deeps in half and make the missing wall out of 3/8" plywood and see if they hold up at all too.

For covers on the divided doubles I use the soundboard inner covers I winter all hives with topped with a regular migratory cover.


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

Im actually thinking of making the whole system as two separate nucs. Then when the bees are ready for a third box he can put them together in the deep brood double nuc by that time it would be close to winter and push the bottom boards together to form 1 unit. The only problem is he does not want Migaretory covers.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

Billboard said:


> Im actually thinking of making the whole system as two separate nucs. Then when the bees are ready for a third box he can put them together in the deep brood double nuc by that time it would be close to winter and push the bottom boards together to form 1 unit. The only problem is he does not want Migaretory covers.


Place a piece of 2 inch styrofoam between the NUCs to allow for the overhang of the telescopic covers. Insulation on all four sides is also good insurance in colder climates.

If two NUCs are the same dimensions as a full sized hive, you can make two small inner covers and place a full sized telescopic cover over two double high NUCs pushed together. You will need to have an upper entrances of some type for ventilation. And perimeter insulation will only improve wintering success. Also need some insulation in the under side of the outer cover or on top of the outer cover.


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## Brad Bee (Apr 15, 2013)

Billboard, I've got some mating nucs where I divided a 10 frame deep into 3 cavities with 1/8" aluminum plate. Three frames fit easily into each compartment. I have not tried it but I figure I could make 2, 5 frame nucs from a standard hive body using one 1/8" divider.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

If you are so inclined, you can fix the divider in place by installing two pieces of light angle on either end of inside of super. Think it was right angle of edge strip for suspended ceilings that I used. 7/8 inch on a side. One could make their own right angle pieces of light guage sheet metal as well. Divider can be "slid" in the two pieces of metal.


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## MTN-Bees (Jan 27, 2014)

I looked at that also, then decided on a bottom board that held two 5 frame nucs and used a U shaped pallet clips to hold them on the bottom board. I find it a lot easier working with individual nucs.


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

I made 3 deep nucs today. I pushed 2 together to measure. Then i thought what if i just put a new board on the face and the back so it looks like its a solid box and glue and screw it. The double wood on the front abd back woukd just help.


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## McBee7 (Dec 25, 2013)

And here's something you might consider--
I believe Dadant 5 frame nuc boxs are 9-1/8 inch wide.
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/b53401-wooden-nuc-box
and MannLake 5 frame nuc boxs are 9-5/8 
https://www.mannlakeltd.com/complete-nuc-kit
I use the 9-5/8 because you can get 4 frames and a frame feeder in the box nicely.
Not so much with the 9-1/8 wide box. 
And of course the Michel Palmer 4 frame nuc is 8-1/8 wide.

==McBee7==


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## larrypeterson (Aug 22, 2015)

I have 11 deep divided bases to hold 22 nucs. This year I have decided to put a 3/4 strip on the side of all new boxes so I can run 5 frame nucs. I will still use the 4 frame nucs just because I have them but from now on, all 5 frame nucs. Building 5 frame nucs is a whole lot simpler (for me) than fitting inside pieces inside the boxes I cut in half. I guess we all have our preferences.

I wish you well, LP


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

Udate on double 5 frame nuc build. I made 4 five frame boxes. Cut the boxs down to proper hieght. That all went good. But when i stack them 2 hi 1 box is tourqed bad where the top edge of the bottom box shows about 1/8 inch on 2 corners. Id use it but its for someone else so i guess ill be making another box.


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## Fivej (Apr 4, 2016)

what did you decide for a divider?


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

Havent made the bottom box yet but ive decided to use a 1x2 cut to fit. Reason being is the top 2 boxes will have a 1.5 inch between them mite as well keep it the same. Once i fix the 5 frame box ill start the double bottom


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

Billboard said:


> Udate on double 5 frame nuc build. I made 4 five frame boxes. Cut the boxs down to proper hieght. That all went good. But when i stack them 2 hi 1 box is tourqed bad where the top edge of the bottom box shows about 1/8 inch on 2 corners. Id use it but its for someone else so i guess ill be making another box.


Billboard, I am curious about the reason for the box teetering. Do you have some of its pieces actually twisted or are one or more of the sides cut with their ends not truly square? The only other alternative is some of the boards wider at one end than the other.


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

Billboard said:


> Udate on double 5 frame nuc build. I made 4 five frame boxes. Cut the boxs down to proper hieght. That all went good. But when i stack them 2 hi 1 box is tourqed bad where the top edge of the bottom box shows about 1/8 inch on 2 corners. Id use it but its for someone else so i guess ill be making another box.


Yeah, I had that happen on some of mine. You didn't get them square or your lumber is warped. Probably the former. In my case, the temp table on sawhorses was not quite flat.

I turned the box over and determined which corner was high and then used a hand plane to progressively shave off the side and end into that corner, bringing the corner down even with the opposite corner. You should do the opposite corner on the top, also, so stacking another nuc on that box will be flat, also. Fairly easy way to salvage a wobbly box.


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

crofter said:


> Billboard, I am curious about the reason for the box teetering. Do you have some of its pieces actually twisted or are one or more of the sides cut with their ends not truly square? The only other alternative is some of the boards wider at one end than the other.


Thats gotta be why. Not square. Making another. Ill use it in my yard.


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

Gumpy said:


> Yeah, I had that happen on some of mine. You didn't get them square or your lumber is warped. Probably the former. In my case, the temp table on sawhorses was not quite flat.
> 
> I turned the box over and determined which corner was high and then used a hand plane to progressively shave off the side and end into that corner, bringing the corner down even with the opposite corner. You should do the opposite corner on the top, also, so stacking another nuc on that box will be flat, also. Fairly easy way to salvage a wobbly box.


Oh it lays flat. Its just out of shape. I did plane the 2 corners. Its just out of square pretty good. When i actually look down at the box you can see its twisted. If it wasnt for someone else id just go with it. But im not going to do shotty work for someone else.


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

Im just going to have to make another and start with a new board so i get straight cuts from the get go. I got 4 nice feeder shims and a not so perfect nuc box. Its not going to waste thats for sure.


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

I made the 4 nuc boxes and started working on the double 5 frame nuc bottom box. Ive been using the radial arm saw my dad gave me on sunday. The bottom box is coming out real good. The front and back measurements were 16 3/4" and the sides stayed the same at 19 7/8". The hieght i put at 9 3/4" thats because i made the frame rests 3/8×3/4 . I saw a fat bee man video were he says that extra depth for the frame rest is so you don't smash a queen putting boxes on top of each other. But heres some pics of that bottom box. I cut that divider notch by pulling the saw back n forth till it was cut. Then i cut out the frame rest with the skill saw. Its really coming out to be a solid box. Using the 2x12 for the divider gives the upper boxes a nice stable base. This new saw opened up a whole new world for me. I love it.


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## Billboard (Dec 28, 2014)

I finished the bottom box. All boxes hold 5 frames. Theres 30 frames total for this double 5 frame nuc. Just got bottom board and top cover left. Coming out pretty good. Hard parts over


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