# Honey extractor



## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

hex how many hives do you plan on having down the road not necessarily now but in the future . I debated this same question and didn't want to buy something now and then in a year or two have to start looking for something bigger . I looked hard for a good used machine but in the end I was able to buy a new 18 frame extractor on sale for 895.00 ,where 9 frame used machines were around 700.00 , I doubt I will ever need the 18 frame but it was only a 100.00 dollars more than a 9 frame . You might want to think more about the manual model also , its alot of cranking , in the end a power model might not be that much more .Dadant , mann lake and brushy mt all make good extractors.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

If you are planning to continue to expand the drawn comb is a worthwhile thing to have. As far as time, though, I can do crush and strain faster than extracting. Not a lot faster, but faster. I would go no smaller than a 9/18 motorized. Otherwise extracting won't be just a little slower, it will be a LOT slower.


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## B52EW (Jun 3, 2013)

How many hives? Less than 10, I would go for a 2/3 frame for under $200...if you expand you can easy sell on C.L. and get a good portion of that back. Also, check with your local beekeeper assoc., they often have lender equipment for members, that would give you an idea of what works before you invest.


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## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

B52EW said:


> How many hives? Less than 10, I would go for a 2/3 frame for under $200
> .


I could not agree less. Maybe with one or two hives. Maybe! With 9 hives two 10 frame supers per, is 180 frames, 15 minutes spin time per cycle, Hopefully. A three frame extractor will take you 15 hours to extract those frames. 15 hours of cranking. It will not take you very long to decide you do not like it.


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## FlowerPlanter (Aug 3, 2011)

My first extractor, a stainless 2 frame for just over $100. Quickly outgrew that. So I got a 9/18 radial. It's awesome. And if you had to buy one this would be it.

I still use both. The 2 frame for extracting any uncapped thinner nectar. I don't need to really inspect the frame before I pull them and decide which ones to keep or put back based on if they're thin. I just take what ever frames or supers I want if I am opening the brood nest, doing splits, any not capped supers (always seems to be a hive that did not cap their honey when other have), any extras frames... Some frames even have half capped and half not. Spinning it slow will release most of the thin nectar then uncap and put them in the big extractor.

While extracting I just put these few thin frames in the two frame. When it's all done I have no doubt that my honey it thick enough, and I end up with a separate bucket of thin honey for mead and ice tea.


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## B52EW (Jun 3, 2013)

I must be a fast cranker...I still use my 2-frame for 15 production hives...spin time less than a minute. But then again, I enjoy making those frames zip around.


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## SteveBarker (Dec 3, 2015)

hex0rz said:


> With my motto, any money I make from doing this beekeeping thing, goes straight back to the beekeeping endeavor. As spring comes closer, depending on whether or not I have bees that live until then, I was thinking of getting an extractor. I did crush and strain, and it was easy, but time consuming. I lost comb because of this. Comb, that I as a new keeper need to establish my hive base. That is mainly my biggest motivator. As I sit, I'm only looking at something small. Something around the 500$ mark, radial only. If I have to hand crank, fine..
> 
> Who recommends what for this price range?


I've been real happy with this one:

http://www.mannlakeltd.com/beekeeping-supplies/product/HH-190.html

s


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## RichardsonTX (Jul 3, 2011)

I love my motorized Dadant extractor. If hadn't had it the first year I don't know what I'd have done. 

If you plan on having more than 10 hives and can afford it, I'd recommend the motorized Dadant extractor (can't remember the model). 

If you are able to lift fairly heavy objects, I'd also recommend using deeps for supers. It makes things go faster.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

B52EW said:


> I must be a fast cranker...I still use my 2-frame for 15 production hives...spin time less than a minute. But then again, I enjoy making those frames zip around.


How many pounds of honey do you harvest per year?

I'd suggest you buy something like Maxant 3500P. Start with manual crank for a while if you wish as per budget, volume of honey and how long you want to crank. Can add the variable speed motor at a late date.

It's nice to always have a small extractor even if you get bigger. It can be conveniently pulled out to extract a few frames.


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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

B52EW said:


> ..spin time less than a minute.


Do you leave much honey in the frames? Blow out many frames?


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## Tom06- (May 11, 2013)

I went to buy a Maxant 6 medium frame. Also holds 3 deep frames.
When I got to the sellers farm. He had set up a motorized one.
I took it with the understanding that if I changed my mind I could return it.
It turns out that it is the best piece of bee keeping equipment I have ever bought.
The wife and I uncap and load 6 mediums and turn it on.
Then we can set and let it do it's thing. It is just great.
No regrets. 
We usually just have 2-4 hives as a hobby.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

ralittlefield said:


> Do you leave much honey in the frames? Blow out many frames?


Suspect a two frame extractor is tangential extraction. With a good grillage, it is really hard to blow frames or foundation because of the cross supports.

When extracting in tangential mode, all honey gets close to same force applied. Honey comes out readily in tangential mode.


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## bsharp (Feb 5, 2013)

I have the Maxant 2-frame hand crank extractor...it's served me well and at the time I bought it I only planned on having a few hives. Now that I've decided to grow, I can tell I'm going to need something bigger--I have my eye on their 20-frame. I'm going to force another year with what I have and use the money from honey sales to upgrade (hopefully I'll make enough to cover the whole thing, but if not, every bit helps).


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

how long it takes to hand crank depends on temperature mostly, also honey thickness.. down south hand cranking is ok for a few hives in the summer. there are inexpensive imported electric ones that work real well. my vivo 4/8 variable electric was about $400, i have seen the same one for less since then, look on flea-bay in the off season [now]. maxant is top notch if you have a larger budget. .. on thick honey on a cooler day turn it on and go on beesource if you can figure out how to keep the honey out of the keyboard.


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## SAS (Sep 4, 2015)

mgolden said:


> I'd suggest you buy something like Maxant 3500P. Start with manual crank for a while if you wish as per budget, volume of honey and how long you want to crank. Can add the variable speed motor at a late date.


 I agree. I bought a Maxant 3500P (Motorized) this past fall. I love it!! It does a great job. And, it doesn't take up much room in my small honey house/man cave.


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## hex0rz (Jan 14, 2014)

Wow, thanks for all the input. Looks like I'll just hold off purchasing an extractor. Maybe I'll wait one more year if I have to. I would like to get to at least 50 hives asap. But I gotta be able to keep my bees alive, lol.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

hex0rz said:


> As I sit, I'm only looking at something small. Something around the 500$ mark, radial only. If I have to hand crank, fine..
> 
> Who recommends what for this price range?


Small? I have a Maxant 50 frame for $500.


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## hex0rz (Jan 14, 2014)

Michael Palmer said:


> Small? I have a Maxant 50 frame for $500.


Nothing like giving the mouse a crumb. Whatchya talking 'bout!? My wife saw you say this, shes interested... PM me the details!


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

mgolden said:


> When extracting in tangential mode, all honey gets close to same force applied. Honey comes out readily in tangential mode.


Well, perhaps you mean all the honey on *one side* of the frame. After the first side is extracted, the tangential extractor must be stopped so the frames can be flipped, then spun again. With a tangential extractor its difficult to see how _both_ sides of the frames could be spun out in 'one minute' as _B52EW_ suggested since the frames need to be flipped.

[hr] [/hr]

An earlier thread on the merits of tangential vs radial extractors:
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?316196-Destroyed-Comb-in-the-Extractor

.


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