# planting buckwheat



## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

Hello,
i am wondering if it would be any benifit for my bees and me to plant an acre of buckwheat? i can get a 25 kg bag of seed for 53.00 +tax at my local feed store

Thanks

Ben


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## psisk (Jul 21, 2011)

Yes and if you can plant more it would be better. The good thing about buckwheat is that when it goes to seed you can harrow it in again and grow another crop. We can get three and sometimes four rounds out of the same bag of seeds. 

psisk


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

psisk said:


> Yes and if you can plant more it would be better. The good thing about buckwheat is that when it goes to seed you can harrow it in again and grow another crop. We can get three and sometimes four rounds out of the same bag of seeds.
> 
> psisk


so you mean after it flowers and gets the seed pod i can plowit under and it will regrow again?


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

THis may be so, just remember the difference in growing seasons. Consult locally on that one!


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## Honeypeach (Mar 15, 2012)

psisk said:


> We can get three and sometimes four rounds out of the same bag of seeds.
> 
> psisk


Good to know! I just planted a small patch, for ground cover as much as anything, but every bloom helps sometimes,


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## TriJim (Mar 11, 2011)

We keep a bit less than an acre in Buckwheat. Easy to plant - broadcast over prepared ground after last frost. Blooms in 3-5 weeks and if you leave it alone - will reseed and continue to bloom until first frost. Bees will work it early morning (say up to 10 AM). I find it a steady nectar source that keeps the bees happy between clover and goldenrod (here in PA). Good luck and let us know how it works for you.


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## lazy shooter (Jun 3, 2011)

Will buckwheat survive our West Texas summers, 60 to 75 days of 100 degree F, with little or no rain?


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## RiodeLobo (Oct 11, 2010)

What is your planting density in weight/acre?
I found that commercial use 50-60lb/acre, but what do you guys use for a cover crop/bee feed?
I used the 60lb/acre number and planted this week. We will see how it goes.


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## nortpete (Aug 10, 2010)

For buckwheat to produce nectar it requires warm days with cool nights and some rain.


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## lazy shooter (Jun 3, 2011)

nortpete said:


> For buckwheat to produce nectar it requires warm days with cool nights and some rain.


My last freeze day is in March. We have cool nights and warm days from mid March until the end of may, so I could get in a spring crop.


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## nortpete (Aug 10, 2010)

I suppose you could. I have been told for my location to plant it and have it bloom when nothing else is blooming ( between clover & goldenrod) because the bees will work the other flowers instead. This is because the buckwheat only produces in the morning hours.


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## bluegrass (Aug 30, 2006)

Black oil sunflower is also a good cheap to grow source of nectar. We buy 50 # bags of bird seed for 28.00 and plant it with a corn planter... Grows great and looks nice too. 

I also plant Buckwheat and bushhog it when it goes to seed... We get 2-3 crops per season in Vermont. I don't really like buckwheat honey though.


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## ChickenChaser (Jun 6, 2009)

bluegrass said:


> We get 2-3 crops per season in Vermont. I don't really like buckwheat honey though.


I have planted and had good luck getting multiple crops and the girls really go wild in the mornings. I've never got the timing/nectar/critical mass right to harvest anything so far. For those who do like it, any suggested vendors?

CC


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

i was a little more interested in planting the buckwheat to insure the bees have lots of honey for their winter stores and that way it would easier for me to do a harvest if i had a nectar flow for the later on in the season : )
rather than giving the bees Sugar Syrup.

what does everyone think , is that a better alternative than sugar water ?


Ben


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## ChickenChaser (Jun 6, 2009)

Ben,
I think it is a better alternative. Honey being the best food for the bees plus not having the cost and labor involved in feeding. 

CC


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## sammyjay (May 2, 2011)

Ben Little said:


> what does everyone think , is that a better alternative than sugar water ?


How severe are your winters? I have been told that if you have few fly days in your winter that the solids in honey will give them dysentry, and for that reason if you have severe winters that you should feed sugar syrup which doesn't have indigestible solids like honey.


Nathan


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

sammyjay said:


> How severe are your winters? I have been told that if you have few fly days in your winter that the solids in honey will give them dysentry, and for that reason if you have severe winters that you should feed sugar syrup which doesn't have indigestible solids like honey.
> 
> 
> Nathan


our winters aren't very severe, mostly mild winters.

Ben


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## psisk (Jul 21, 2011)

Buckwheat will make with little rain and plenty of heat cause we have both here. I am planting it this year to fill in the dearth between cabbage palm and golden rod. It will make a really dark honey and I dont care much for the taste but I dont plan to harvest any of it anyway. 

psisk


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Second year after buckwheat, the grass will be gone...time to plant another bee forage crop. An old friend used to plant a rape/white sweet clover mix. He'd get buckwheat the first year, canola the second year, and sweet clover for several years after that. When ther sweet clover started to die out, the land went back into buckwheat to start the cycle over again.


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## RiodeLobo (Oct 11, 2010)

My buckwheat just started to bloom. Planted in mid may, and only about an acre. I am using as Mr. Palmer described as a grass killer. It isn't easy turning pasture into garden without herbicides. I hope this works, I am planning on at least one more cycle this year, perhaps two.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

RiodeLobo said:


> ... I am using [buck wheat] as a grass killer. It isn't easy turning pasture into garden without herbicides...


You must plow the ground, till the ground, plant buck wheat, mow the green buck wheat down, then plow or turn the green buck wheat stubble under, re-till the ground, replant the buck wheat, then re-mow the green buck wheat, and repeat the process every time the green buck wheat begins to flower. If you continue to do this for one growing season, in a years time the buck wheat in conjunction with the plow will kill most grasses and weeds, even in a new or first year garden. However if you ever once allow the buck wheat to bloom, say for your bees, or if you ever once allow the buck wheat to go to seed, you may well wish that you had the weeds back that you started with.


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## RiodeLobo (Oct 11, 2010)

Scrapfe said:


> However if you ever once allow the buck wheat to bloom, say for your bees, or if you ever once allow the buck wheat to go to seed, you may well wish that you had the weeds back that you started with.


Its really that bad to let it bloom? I can understand the going to seed, but how long is your window of opportunity to mow and till after it blooms and before the seeds mature?


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## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

Then whats the point? why waste seed> just plow ever 4 weeks and kill everything you need to..


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## seal62 (Apr 17, 2011)

I had to read that a couple times . Mow my crop ? I did get the part about the weeds and a cover crop ...but mow ? OK clover gets mowed .Buckwheat goes in with the corn . Its allowed to bloom ...its a feed crop for us . Deer love it,,ducks move in to eat the seed . Its great for bees because when its done golden rod has started . Whats left is pulled for next yrs seed . Its a great crop .


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

RiodeLobo said:


> ... Its really that bad to let it bloom? I can understand the going to seed, but how long is your window of opportunity to mow and till after it blooms and before the seeds mature?


Buckwheat is not as bad as a poke in the eye with a sharp stick. With the right amount of rain it almost leaps out of the ground and can start blooming 30 days after planting and ready for harvest in 70 days or less. This is as fast, or faster than Japanese millet. That said I would rather hoe or pull buckwheat out of a garden than BUCK GRASS (Johnson grass) so if you want to, plant buckwheat, go ahead. The problem is the number of buckwheat seeds produced and remember every seed represents a new plant. Years ago, my hunting club planted strips of buckwheat to shoot morning doves over on opening day. We bush hogged it down a week or two before the season opened. If the vegetation was still rank I would also hit each plot with a disk harrow to expose enough bare dirt so the doves would land to feed. I know I saw an inch of buckwheat seed on bare dirt. 

Buckwheat’s quick maturity is one reason (I think) old time Northern farmers planted it. As previously noted, this is just my theory. I don't think there was ever much commercial demand for buckwheat flour, but it was a quick and sure harvest (without much work or rain) that could help feed a family in a pinch.

If you are planting it for your bees, let it go to seed or even keep disturbing the ground so new plants will germinate, grow, and flower. If on the other hand you want to use buckwheat as green Roundup follow the advice in post 21. 

I don't have a clue how much time before buckwheat seeds become viable.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

seal62 said:


> ... I had to read that a couple times . Mow my crop ? I did get the part about the weeds and a cover crop ...but mow ? ...


Buckwheat produces a huge amount of stalks and leaves. You will need to mow before tilling or else buy a bull dozer to till with. That is why buckwheat works so well at killing grass and weeds, it crowds them out. Remember the OP asked about converting a cow pasture into a garden patch.



gmcharlie said:


> Then whats the point? why waste seed> just plow ever 4 weeks and kill everything you need to..


Buckwheat jumps out of the ground like a land mind. It grows fast, it produces tons of organic matter, it has huge leaves that act like umbrellas. It is a wonderful plant when used to out compete, over shadow, and suck the life out of emerging weed seeds, grass roots and rhizomes. Besides think of all the organic matter you are adding to your soil. 

Even if you don’t practice organic gardening this will encourage healthier root systems for your veggies, make cultivation easier, and hold moisture better. While just plowing every 30 days creates a deep seedbed so you can grow better weeds next year. Try it some time and see if you don’t agree.


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## ChickenChaser (Jun 6, 2009)

RiodeLobo said:


> how long is your window of opportunity to mow and till after it blooms and before the seeds mature?


Buckwheat will bloom - shall we say "in succession" ? There will be mature seeds on the lower branches while it is flowering at the top. So, it CAN become a weed. To some people, anyway.

I think the seed is viable once it reaches the dark brown color. Maybe medium brown? I try to leave mine until the seed clusters will easily "strip" from the plant with very little resistance. Then I mow/bush hog "high"...then mid level...then as low as possible without making ground contact. After this, I lightly harrow - just disturbing the soil. 

CC


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## ChickenChaser (Jun 6, 2009)

Scrapfe said:


> ...remember every seed represents a new plant.


Scrapfe - I bought japanese buckwheat two years ago as an alternative to the common. You know, the nectar production debate. Not wanting to lose my seed, I have planted in strips to make it easier to gather by hand. Many times, I would walk by the strips and do calculations like..."ok - one seed makes one plant. One plant makes a hundredfold in seeds. So, how much do I need to gather..." 

I collected about two gallons before bush hogging July 4th at 2 p.m. It was around 99 in the shade - and I wasn't. Thats getting close to the sharp stick eye poke... LOL

CC


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## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

Scrapfe said:


> you don’t practice organic gardening this will encourage healthier root systems for your veggies, make cultivation easier, and hold moisture better. While just plowing every 30 days creates a deep seedbed so you can grow better weeds next year. Try it some time and see if you don’t agree.


If you keep the weeds plowed under, for a full seasson.. IE disc every two weeks or so, it accomplishis exactly the same thing without wasteing buckwheat seed. I have 40 acres that I rotate in and out....... If yoru cgoing to mow it down before it does anything you don't need to seed. 
No noticiable difference in weed growth.....at least here.....


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

gmcharlie said:


> If you keep the weeds plowed under, for a full season.. IE disc every two weeks or so, it accomplishes exactly the same thing without wasteing buckwheat seed. ....


Planting buckwheat in succession on a future garden plot is the "green" alternative to covering the garden plot with a black plastic sheet for a year. You are not wasting seed. If you doubt it try growing weeds and grass in a dark shaded place see how well they do. The only difference is that buckwheat can make 3 tons (dry weight) of plant matter or green fertilizer per acre and that’s with just with one planting. The old John Deere or plow horse only makes C02 or methane. The following link shows the arrow head shaped buckwheat leaves. As you see buckwheat can do a fine job of shading out weeds and grass. 
http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/buckwheat.htm


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## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

well done the buckwheat, plant it every year, must be our soil as its not that great of ground cover


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## Rob Hughes (Apr 23, 2012)

I did (or tried) a pasture improvement experiment this spring, flail-mowed off about an acre and a half of a field I have where I am keeping a couple of my new colonies, then ran disc harrows over a couple of times, and broadcast a mix of buckwheat, white clover, alfafa and trefoil. Right after it got pretty dry and emergence/germinaiton was not that great. Overall it has not worked very well. The grass came back and smothered the clover/alfalfa mostly; some buckwheat made it, but is stunted and has not made much of a difference. It's flowering now but apparently not enough of a source for the bees to bother with it. I should have cultivated more aggressively or plowed it -will try again next year. Now I find I have wild parsnip in part of the field and am cutting it before it seeds, a nasty invasive.
Rob


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