# Making mason jar feeder holders



## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

Why not just drill a hole thru a flat hive cover that is slightly bigger than your mason jar lid. The screen should be #8, it is easy to get. Don't make feeders that sit at the hive entrance as they promote robbing.


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## remist17 (Sep 29, 2014)

can anyone explain to me #8 and #4 mesh wire. #4 i think is 1/2" openings. Is #8, 1/8" openings?

Im want to make ones that sit on the inner cover with a super around them then the top cover.


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

I don't think the mesh is there to support the jar, it is there to keep the bees from coming out when the jar is lifted. The support is around the lip of the jar lid. You don't have to use the mesh screen. They use a hole saw bit, but I don't know the size. I priced it once and think it was around 30 bucks.


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

The #4 is 1/4" and the bees will come right thru it. I don't like spending thirty bucks for something only used once in a ***** age so I use my jig saw to cut mine after tracing the hole size with the fruit jar lid. The screen is not vital and may indeed keep the bees from getting to the tiny holes you make in the lid. It is just to keep bees from getting out when you pull the jar. That is not a big deal in my bee yard. There are bees flying around every where. It is only nice in cold weather when pulling the jar out may consign those that come out with the jar to death in the cold. But if it is that cold, the syrup will get too cold for the bees anyway. So the screen is just not all that vital.


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## gone2seed (Sep 18, 2011)

Make them this way and there is no robbing.
http://99-40.com/bees/icover.html


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

I have seen people use a small length of PVC pipe that the jar goes in and notches on the other, but when I top feed, I just use some scrap 3/4" and have the scrap prop the jars up on top of the inner cover and put jars in each corner and the girls come up out through the oval opening. I made mine oval, because I agree with Vance, don't see no need to buy the hole saw blade.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>can anyone explain to me #8 and #4 mesh wire. #4 i think is 1/2" openings. Is #8, 1/8" openings?

#8 is 8 wires to an inch. Or one wire ever 1/8". The openings are 1/8" minus the thickness of the wire, so no, they are not 1/8" openings, but they are almost 1/8" openings. #4 is four wires &c. &c. &c.


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## Mountain Man (Aug 26, 2013)

what size hole saw is used


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## buddey99 (Apr 26, 2013)

Mountain Man said:


> what size hole saw is used


I use 3/4th inch without issue for standard (not wide mouth) quart jars.


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

buddey99 said:


> I use 3/4th inch without issue for standard (not wide mouth) quart jars.


Come back?


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## gezellig (Jun 11, 2014)

I'm sure he meant 2 3/4, that's what I use and it fits regular jar perfectly. Lowes has them for about $10, and although I haven't seen them, Ace Hardware sells an adjustable hole saw that you make the width you want.


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

gezellig said:


> I'm sure he meant 2 3/4, that's what I use and it fits regular jar perfectly. Lowes has them for about $10, and although I haven't seen them, Ace Hardware sells an adjustable hole saw that you make the width you want.


My bad as well, I think I may have been referencing the price of the size for corn hole. 2 3/4 sounds more like it. Thanks for setting me straight gezellig.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

You can also soilder an inch long, 1/8" diameter copper tubing to the center of your jar lid and just drill a small hole in your top cover. The hole is so small to accommodate the 1/8" feeder tube that the bees can't get out so you don't have to mess with the mesh!

See Randy Oliver's website, Scientific Beekeeping and check out feeders. This works incredibly well.


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## buddey99 (Apr 26, 2013)

gezellig said:


> I'm sure he meant 2 3/4, that's what I use and it fits regular jar perfectly. Lowes has them for about $10, and although I haven't seen them, Ace Hardware sells an adjustable hole saw that you make the width you want.


I am sure that's what he meant.


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

Ya don't need the screen.. it is to keep bees inside when you remove the jar.

If you gently slide it to the side before lifting it, the bees won't stay on the jar.


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## j.kuder (Dec 5, 2010)

i throw a couple of 3/4 inch spacer sticks on top of the top bars and set the jar on top put empty box over it. i used 1/2 gallon mason jars like that this past fall


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## burns375 (Jul 15, 2013)

j.kuder said:


> i throw a couple of 3/4 inch spacer sticks on top of the top bars and set the jar on top put empty box over it. i used 1/2 gallon mason jars like that this past fall


Same here, I actually have 3 of those wood double jar holders with $8 mesh, that I don't even use, they came from another beekeeper giving away equipment. I pull a few twigs off a tree for spacers......I don't feed much with mason jars anymore....using frame or hive top feeders more often.


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

Mountain Man said:


> what size hole saw is used


2 3/4 is a little small for a mason jar lid unless your bit set-up cuts a sloppy hole. 2 7/8 will cut a lose enough fit hole. the 2 7/8 hole saw is much harder to find and may have to come from a more expensive source. I used a 2 3/4 bit and enlarged the hole to fit until I broke down and ordered a 2 7/8 one on ebay. the lid lip is larger, on thiner wood a 2 3/4 will work.


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## BEES4U (Oct 10, 2007)

1/30/2016
What did diameter did you cut the hole size?
The following URL lists all of their, LENOX, speed slots, including a 2-7/8". However, wood will swell with wet conditions. Try a 3"
http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/bi-metal-speed-slot-hole-saws.aspx

Regards,
Ernie


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## jvalentour (Sep 4, 2014)

If you can find a 3" hole saw it should be your first choice. Wood does swell. I tried #4 cloth and crushed a few bees when I replaced the mason jar. I'm switching to #8. Just makes things quicker. I also use 1/2 plywood and paint the edges (sometimes). Your feeders aren't being used all year so you can save a little with the inexpensive wood. I go to Lowes a lot and got my hole saw from the return bin for $5.


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

i put the feeders in the top of migratory type covers. on nucs i leave the jars on all the time empty or full. put the hole toward the back of the cover. i want a close fit to keep rain out. a 2 7/8 hole is what i want to get a snug fit, run the hole saw in and out a few times, paint the hole well before putting the screen on. with a 3 inch hole the wind blowing off empty jars can be a problem. a thick block may require starting with a 3 inch hole saw for a cut part way thru then finishing with 2 7/8 to allow for the lip on the jar lid. this is not that hard to do on a batch of covers and gives the bees a nice dry home. the covers with the feeders built in are easy to check and fill and there is less total pieces to build. lifting the jar gives you a peek at the back upper corner of the hive without opening and disturbing the tenants. a tighter fit also seems to slow down propilis pluging the screen..


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## popeye (Apr 21, 2013)

I use a 2 3/4 in hole saw. Run a jig saw along edge of 2 3/4 hole. Keep fitting the Mason jar till you get it where you like it. Not too snug or too loose.
I put #8 hardware cloth on other side. Hammer it in some to reach surface of a turned around lid with small holes on Mason jar. Staple the hardware cloth. Cloth should be touching lid when jar is pushed all in. I use a rubber mallet or circular piece of wood smaller than hole size.
I also try to put my jar hole(s) near the back and not in the middle over brood. Easier to get to them from back of hive. I use migratory covers for feeder lids. Also cover feeder jars with two liter plastic soda bottles with spouts cut off and spray painted a dark color. These fit snug on Mason quart jars. 
I make two to four holes on full size and one to two on nuc box lids. Then after feeding go back to telescoping covers. If I leave feeder lid on I cover holes when done feeding.


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## tazke (Mar 23, 2015)

I use my router with a collar and 1/4 spiral bit. Make a pattern jig, hole plus collar, use the pattern and cut your hole. You can cut holes about 5 times faster than with a whole saw. And make any size hole you want. I use this for nuc feeder holes, and making my screen tops. Works great.


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## jadebees (May 9, 2013)

I just put pint or quart jars on the hole in the inner cover, no screen. If you make your own covers, you can get a doorknob holesaw set very cheap. The big holesaw in that set is a great size. If you have an oval slot, place duct tape over 1/3 of the oval, either end. A spare med. or deep box will cover it, then just put the roof back on. This works so well, i made inner covers for all my Warre hives, then later started building a feeder hole deck into the quilt boxes. Super easy, no robbing, no ants, no yellow jackets. Yes, a few will fly out at you sometimes. Without screen, the ants cannot tamper inside the hive top.


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