# Plywood - Ruff or smooth?



## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

I called the local limber yard today to get some prices on ext grade 3/4" plywood. I am going to pick up some to make some migratory tops. They gave me prices on 2 different kinds. 1 side ruff/1 side smooth $25 approx, 4x8. Or both sides ruff $17, 4x8. I think they called this one CD plywood. I forget now. I don't buy a lot of plywood. Which one do you buy? I am not using inner covers if that makes a difference for the ruff side.


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## coopermaple (Aug 30, 2009)

3/4" cdx plywood is exterior grade and does not have a sanded side to it. There may be some knots missing in the outer layer on either side. Usually one side is better than the other. This plywood has an exterior rated glue but it is designed to be used as sheathing under siding or roofing or even as sub floor but is not rated for direct exposure, even if painted. Not sure about your location and weather but in most conditions the moisture, sun and cold will cause it to delaminate in 1-2 years if used as a migratory cover.

ACQ treated also known as pressure treated (PT) plywood would last much longer for the use as a migratory cover.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Pressure treated is not recommended to use with the chemical preservatives that it has in it. (I believe)


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## BEES4U (Oct 10, 2007)

I use ACX with the smooth up and the rough side down.
Ernie


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

You using 1/2" or 3/4"?


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## mythomane (Feb 18, 2009)

Its going to warp up pretty bad unless you use some a metal top or some mineral paper. I know guys that buy cheap 2x4s and cut them lengthwise and secure them on the ends, with some thin stuff (plywood or masonite) on the bottoms. You can get second hand scuffed up paneling for cheap that works well. Dadant also sells cheap migratory tops -- and you are within pick-up range!


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## Dubhe (Jul 19, 2007)

I make mine with 2x4s using the NOD (Miteaway II) plans. They're good tops, suitable for mass production, & provide a suitable gap for formic treatment and emergency winter feeding.

http://www.miteaway.com/html/hive_lid_plans.php


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

mythomane said:


> Its going to warp up pretty bad unless you use some a metal top or some mineral paper.


I figured 3/4" primed and painted would hold up pretty well. Dadant is 140 miles. Not a bad drive, but not just an up and go real quick either. I meant to buy a couple on my last order and totally forgot about it.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Dubhe said:


> http://www.miteaway.com/html/hive_lid_plans.php


For some reason my puter is not downloading the plans. I sent them a email so they should email me the plans. Thanks for the link.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Hambone said:


> Pressure treated is not recommended to use with the chemical preservatives that it has in it. (I believe)


This is commonly stated, but I don't know that the assumed effects on bees is really true. I know lots of people who build pallets out of pressure treated plywood and almost all of my covers are pressure treated plywood. I haven't noticed any die off from the use of it.


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## mythomane (Feb 18, 2009)

Its arsenic+ other stuff. You don't want it near your bees. They used to make kids jungle gyms out of the stuff, but that is now illegal. The kids didn't die out there playing tag, but they were the worse for it. Hambone, here is a shot of a simple cover sold by nabeevive:

http://www.nabeehive.com/innercover-1-1.aspx

You really don't need a plan. Chuck Norris could build one of these without a saw. You can handle it, Baconboy.


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## mythomane (Feb 18, 2009)

Here is the Dadant:

https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_47&products_id=186

Seems to me I paid $1 less for these last year. After its said and done, you might consider just buying a few. Its easier.


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