# Multi purpose Deeps



## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

I use all 3/4" pine.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

I use the 1/4", watch out if you are cutting hand holds, the hand hold hits the dato (ask me how I know).


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

I don't dado, but use a tight fitting 1/2" follower board.
I made a few out of masonite with a 3/4" wise top bar...bad idea, as the bees hung comb form the top bar.

Using a tight fitting follower board will allow you to let one nuc expand a frame at a time, and concentrate their effort on one frame of comb at a time. It also leaves them less space to keep warm in early spring expansion.


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## garusher (May 28, 2012)

Good information, i never gave the hand hold contacting the dado. 

Follower board, I'm guessing that is a snug fitting board with maybe a top contoured to fit where the frames normally rest?

Thanks.


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

That's exactly what it is.
The "ears" on the board that set on the frame rest are 3/8" x 5/8".


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## jrbbees (Apr 4, 2010)

Make sure the top board comes up high enough to seal so the bees can't walk over.
It will have to be higher than the frames.


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## garusher (May 28, 2012)

Another thing, I'm using Screened BB's and have made 16 so far, have any of you that also section off for nucs etc have any good ideas for bottom boards/bases.
Solid BB would allow for stacking of deeps and make it easier for the follower board to seal good against the Solid BB. I'm not really wanting to drill extra escape holes in my deeps, so i'm thinking some type of custom bottom board would surfice.

I do however like Screened BB's as i have noticed Solids getting a build up of capping, where SHB and WMoths seem to like to live.
Well come to think about it now, either type of Bottom board would be stackable. it's just directional bee escapes that i need to address.
Gary


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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

garusher said:


> Another thing, I'm using Screened BB's and have made 16 so far, have any of you that also section off for nucs etc have any good ideas for bottom boards/bases.


I have made screened bottom boards with no landing board and a partition down the middle to separate the two sides. The rim goes all the way around, so entrance hole have to be drilled in the brood box. I'm sure they could be modified to have landing board, but I like entrances on opposite sides, so drilling holes is the simplest solution for me.


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## Joebee (Nov 28, 2011)

Put a 3/4 rim with center divider like Rattlefield describes. Where you want an entrance drill two 3/8 holes an inch or so apart through the rim, clean out material between the holes. Mating nucs don't need a large entrance anyhow and you have done no damage to your boxes. I have four compartment nucs set up this way, an entrance on all sides....works great.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

I have tried the follower boards (still have a handful). I put a ¼” dato through a piece of the box wood every inch, cut them apart and put the wood into the dato. I did it for weak hives that I wanted to keep the space reduced but did not have the kahuna’s to try it on a multiple nucs in a single deep.


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## fordtractornut (Jul 4, 2010)

stick board insert... cut to size and it allows for 5 frames in a 10 frame deep,


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## waynesgarden (Jan 3, 2009)

1/8" Masonite held in place by a dado ea. end.

The screened bottom board, (made from the plans in the Build It Yourself" section,) have a 3/4 by 3/4" strip running front to rear, just below the Masonite with the screening stapled to the underside so it doesn't create a gap if there is a sag.

Wayne


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## garusher (May 28, 2012)

waynesgarden said:


> 1/8" Masonite held in place by a dado ea. end.
> 
> The screened bottom board, (made from the plans in the Build It Yourself" section,) have a 3/4 by 3/4" strip running front to rear, just below the Masonite with the screening stapled to the underside so it doesn't create a gap if there is a sag.
> 
> Wayne


I like the idea of using a thinner follower. I'm leaning towards make a 3/4" shim to sit on/in the screened bottom board and drill an exit in each side, then i can configure the deep like a queen castle or 2 5 frame nucs. etc. However, what i would really like is a suitable solution that covers all my needs and wont be difficult to build.

Thanks for all the positive input.
Gary


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## Jim 134 (Dec 1, 2007)

This may help you this are 4 frame nuc's over a 10 frame box


http://vimeo.com/23234196


BEE HAPPY Jim 134


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## AstroBee (Jan 3, 2003)

The brushy mtn queen castle uses masonite as dividers. I've found that after they have been in service for a while that the masonite is very hard to remove. The bees readily glue the dividers into the dados. I've found that corrugated plastic (Coroplast) is much better. 

I'm following this thread with great interest as I am planning to build a bunch of these this winter. One problem that I've faced is finding a reasonable priced source (including shipping) for boxes without the front and back hand holds. My plan is to partition these boxes as 3-frame nucs, with an additional center partition so they can be reconfigured as two 5-frame nucs. A three compartment design doesn't have an issue with most hand hold layouts, but the center dado would cut right through most manufacturer's hand hold layouts. At this point, I may adopt a hybrid design that uses two dado for the 3-compartment configuration, and a follower board when used as a two 5-frame nucs. I really don't like that approach, but at this point I don't see a cost effective workaround. Ideas welcome!! 

Also, I plan to use solid bottom boards as their primary use is for queen mating nucs. When using screened bottom boards, I've seen problems with newly mated queens returning to below the hive and getting stuck and not finding the entrance.


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## waynesgarden (Jan 3, 2009)

I've only cut the dados in a couple purchased boxes and haven't hit the hand hold. I only cut about 1/8" or so deep, just enough to snap the piece of Masonite in. They don't have to be very deep since all they do is locate the divider. The deeps I've been making myself have slightly shallower hand holds than commercial boxes so there is even less chance.

Wayne


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## garusher (May 28, 2012)

Hi All,
Well i have been playing around in sketch up and come up with this design. A 3/4" x 3/4" shim with 3/4" x 3/8" exists in 4 directions. 1/4" x 1/4" dado's allowing 1, 2, 3 or 4 compartments. should sit nicely on my Screen bottom boards.
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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

Looks good! Using this shim will let you avoid putting holes in your brood boxes.  You may want to take some measure to assure that there are no sags in the bottom board screens.


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## BayHighlandBees (Feb 13, 2012)

so is it that the shim encroaches inside the width of the normal box so that the dados stick out beyond the inside wall?


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