# Fire Ants



## Beeophyte (Oct 17, 2011)

I have had some luck using about five gallons of soapy water and repeatedly soaking the mounds. A tablespoon of dishwashing liquid for a five gallon bucket seems to really set them back. You will have to douse them twice a week for up to three weeks. Many ants die each time but till you get the queen they will just keep moving the mound.


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## robherc (Mar 17, 2012)

I use about 1/4cup in a 1.5gal sprayer & foam the buggers out with it...can treat maybe 3-4 mounds per fill on the sprayer. Wait 4 days & you'll know which mounds will need re-treating; but by day 2 all of them will at least be significantly weaker.
If you want to read a good discussion on many ways that do/don't kill them, try reading the thread from my personal war with them: Fireants!!!

Another good recommendation that I got from that thread was to use beneficial nematodes as a biocontrol agent. They're kinda pricey if you have a large property like mine, but for a small plot they'd likely be the "silver bullet".


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## Pamela White (May 7, 2012)

Thanks, but they are on my hive. Not many, but I don't want them to get out of hand.


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## robherc (Mar 17, 2012)

On your hive, all you can really do is brush 'em off...then deal with the rest on the ground before they get into the hive.


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## Tom Brueggen (Aug 10, 2011)

The organic deterrent I use is orange oil and liquid/dry molasses. They don't like the citrus (and I assume acidity) of the orange oil. I've just dump about 1/4 of orange oil right on the small mound, and the next day they are gone. It's not to say that it kills them, but it runs them off. Perhaps if you just spray around the base of your hive with the orange oil they won't cross that barrier. But take this with a grain of salt, as I don't know how the orange oil may affect your bees. I don't think it would hurt them, as long as you didn't spray the bees directly. But the smell is pretty strong, and perhaps that would bother the bees.
I use a liquid solution on the mounds, thus the liquid molasses. The molasses attracts/feeds the nematodes and beneficial bacteria. For a general application, just sprinkle out the dry molasses. I use the dry molasses/orange oil around my garden and have just about rid the area of fire ants. It's worth a shot I suppose. 
But for your needs, I'd think just spraying some orange oil around the base of the hive might work. But you may want to research it first. If anyone else knows better, please let me know.


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## robherc (Mar 17, 2012)

Orange oil is reputed to be a somewhat effective bee deterrent according to: This Do-It-Yourself.com Article


> The essential oil that works best as a repellent against bees is orange oil


...so I'd leave the orange oil away from my hives.


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## Pamela White (May 7, 2012)

Thank you all for your help. I hate those nasty pests more than anything and I do NOT want to harm the bees in any way. I don't want to use any chemicals anywhere near them. I appreciate it very much.


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## DRUR (May 24, 2009)

Pamela. 

I have hive stands I built from 8' landscaping timbers. Two timbers run parallel with 3-16" pieces [one on each end and one in the middle. I place these on cinderblocks, that way the bees are off the ground. I place either 3 or 4 colonies on these equally spaced. I also use mostly screened bottom boards [although the few I have with solid bottoms seem to do better], so any mites or beetle larva drop through to the ground and the fire ants will take care of them. I see the fire ants on my colonies [not in great numbers] and occassionally inside the colonies. Ants are cousins with bees and they seem to get along just fine as long as the bees are strong. I never treat either my bees or the fire ants and they are not a problem. Some have problems with fireants, or at least believe they do. I have spoken with fatbeeman [from Geogia] and he has also found that they are not a problem. Bee colonies generate waste and it seems to me that the fireants are excellent neighbors with the bees as far as helping keep the area clean and healthy.

Kindest Regards
Danny Unger


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## Tom Brueggen (Aug 10, 2011)

I stand corrected. And educated! Now I know that I also should not spray any orange oil on my hive. Thanks!


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## robherc (Mar 17, 2012)

No problem, glad to be of help in (hopefully) averting a possible future absconding (believe me, I've already had enough of them to go around a FEW times...lol)
The orange oil is also HIGHLY lethal to most insects (I think it breaks down the waxes/oils in their exoskeletons & breathing tubes, similar to soap) from what I've researched, so it's likely killing off the fire ants you're treating with it (that's good, they're a non-native pest)...FWIW.


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

I have had problems with ants trying to nest between the inner and outer covers... and I don't like it. I sprinkle cinnamon on the inner cover, and the ant problem is solved. fwiw
Regards,
Steven


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## Ddawg (Feb 17, 2012)

I also read in the Beekeeping for Dummies book that Cinnamon works, sprinkle on inner cover and also a ring around the hive. Re apply after it rains. 
I haven't tried this yet, but i plan to.
DD


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## robherc (Mar 17, 2012)

I've heard from many others around here that cinnamon doesn't help much with the RIFA (Red Imported Fire Ants)...though most beeks from outside their range swear by it, so I think it may be a "works for all NATIVE ants" thing :lookout:


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## julysun (Apr 25, 2012)

I mount my hives on one 4x4 post about 18 inches above ground on a platform at the top of the 4x4. Then I apply a band of Tanglefoot to the 4x4. They bridge it with bodies at first but give up quickly. I stir the TF often to keep it fresh. My TBH, I just TF the legs. Keep the TF band low and the bees don't get in it.I make the platform with 2x4s and glue and nail it like h.... Has to support a hive stack so it has to be stout.


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