# Varroa mite spring treatment w/ honey



## Motj3 (Dec 15, 2012)

MAQS II. Use during the cooler end of recommendation and add some ventilation by putting a popsickle stick or similar spacer between your boxes. Remove the pads after the seven day treatment period even though you don't have to. These are the tips I gleaned that prevent the problems of brood kill and queen loss associated with the product. It is Formic Acid and accepted as okay to use with supers on.


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

Motj3 said:


> MAQS II. Use during the cooler end of recommendation and add some ventilation by putting a popsickle stick or similar spacer between your boxes. Remove the pads after the seven day treatment period even though you don't have to. These are the tips I gleaned that prevent the problems of brood kill and queen loss associated with the product. It is Formic Acid and accepted as okay to use with supers on.


What he said.


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## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

Is there something you could use to just "knock them back" to get through the flow and treat again during summer dearth? If you have one and if they need it.


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

It sounds like the single strip application of MAQS is just what is called for. With numbers like that, I'd take the risk of queen problems which would be minimized by ventilation, mild temperatures and the half dose. When I used it, the mite drop was unreal(~1500/1st 24 hrs).
DISCLAIMER- When I used it I did indeed experience egg-laying delay and supercedure but it was applied during a heat wave in hives that were shut up tight.


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## RAK (May 2, 2010)

I would stay away from MAQS unless you have queen cells or extra queens on hand. The "Flash" treatment will be quick and easy but its a risk.


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## wildbranch2007 (Dec 3, 2008)

apiguard works just fine I would give it a try, I'm still leary of MAQS but do intend to try the 1 pad followed 10days later by a second pad.


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

I've not tried it, but the "honey friendly" treatment that intrigues me is Oxalic dribble or vapor.


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## Wisnewbee (Apr 8, 2011)

you don't want to use OA on a hive that has brood. It knocks the heck out of the brood. With mite counts as high as you have, you need to do something NOW, or you won't have any bees. That's an 8% and 16% mite load. Loads that high will wipe out a colony in short order. If you don't treat with MAQS, then use the Apivar and just wait the required time. Lose the honey crop or lose the bees. Your choice. You could also add the Apivar for a shorter duration and pull the strips. Wait the 2 weeks then super the hives. This will give you a knock down on mites but you'll still have mites on capped brood. You'll need to treat again as soon as the supers come off, if you try this.

Wisnewbee


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## johng (Nov 24, 2009)

Hopsgaurd could be a good option in this situation. One treatment a week for three weeks. That will put you finished with the treatment in time for Gallberry. Then you can treat with Apigaurd or Apivar in June when we hit our summer dearth. You need to try and knock back the mites or you will probably loose the hives by the end of summer. I would not use MAQs this time of year, the weather is too unstable it can go from highs in the 60s one day to highs in the 80s the next. MAQs is too hard on the brood especially in the higher temps.


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## camero7 (Sep 21, 2009)

> you don't want to use OA on a hive that has brood. It knocks the heck out of the brood.


I have not experienced that with OA vapor. I used it in the late summer just before the bees begin to raise their winter bees. Never seen any dead brood after using it.


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## RAK (May 2, 2010)

OA vapor does not harm brood and does not kill queens. I have used vapor with broody hives with good results.


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## NewJoe (Jul 1, 2012)

how about a powdered sugar treatment for a few weeks?


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## BudsBees (Mar 10, 2013)

Try vaporizing them. I build them for 80.00 dollars. Safe on Bees Honey And Brood.


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## Dave Burrup (Jul 22, 2008)

I have found Apiguard to be reliable only in the upper temperature ranges of the label.

Dave


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