# Which Cap & Ladder Division Board Feeder Do You Use?



## drlonzo (Apr 15, 2014)

I use the ML pro feeders with 8 frame equipment. I get 7 frames plus the feeder and have about 5/8 of an inch area to move frames. Keeping the frames cleaned is the key to keeping the area for movement. Gotta clean the propolis off the frame ears and keep them pushed together tight.


----------



## ian_m (Feb 5, 2015)

I use http://www.motherlodeproducts.com/apiary-store/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=splash 
These are resold by some of the big boys. You can get them open or with cap and ladders. The size is yours to decide.


----------



## Riskybizz (Mar 12, 2010)

While we're on the subject I spent 2-3 hours this afternoon putting some #6 screws at each end of my mother load cap and ladder feeders to hold the end down because last fall quite a few of them had lifted enough to allow a bunch of bees to crawl under the plastic ends and drown. The very ends have a tendency to not stay snapped down securely. The screws solved that problem. I did about 50 of them today. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of the issue. Other than that I do like the feeders.


----------



## Broke-T (Jul 9, 2008)

I also have question about cap and ladder. I have been running the Motherload feeder and when left in year round the bees propalize the holes in the ladder making them impossible to fill. They are very difficult to break apart and clean. I am trying the ML profeeder with cap and ladder now. As I increase hive count I want to go with a feeder in both brood boxes so that when I swap boxes in spring there is always a feeder in top box. It seems most commercial guys I know don't use a cap and ladder. What do ya'll think?

Johnny


----------



## johnbeejohn (Jun 30, 2013)

johnny ur inbox is full.....


----------



## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

I'm not commercial, but I've been using about 40 of the motherload feeders without c+l since last summer without any problems - little drowning or comb building in them. As long as there isn't too much space above them - then they build comb in them.


----------



## SWM (Nov 17, 2009)

Thanks guys...I just ordered 10 C&L feeders from Mother Lode and I'll give them a try. The standard size holds .75 gallon and I'm willing to sacrifice the .25 capacity to gain a little wiggle room. Part of my problem may be that I'm using Rossman hive bodies and Dadant frames with the ML feeder. As we all know there is sometimes a slight variation in what is considered "standard dimensions" between manufacturers.

Broke-T if you soak your ladders in 190 proof grain alcohol and use an old tooth brush on them the propolis will dissolve. Rinse with water and they will look like new...take a sip every so often and you'll feel like new!


----------



## texanbelchers (Aug 4, 2014)

Even with the mother lode ladders I seem to get a lot of drowned bees. I added a wine cork the last fill to see if that will help. Do you loose many without the cap & ladder? I saw someone uses a zigzag wire mesh I may try too.


----------



## Honey-4-All (Dec 19, 2008)

texanbelchers said:


> Even with the mother lode ladders I seem to get a lot of drowned bees. I added a wine cork the last fill to see if that will help. Do you loose many without the cap & ladder? I saw someone uses a zigzag wire mesh I may try too.



If you have a lot of drowned bees its usually an indication that the little buggers have other issues. Especially in the fall and winter its a very good indicator that the hive is on a death spiral.


----------



## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

I've been using the motherload feeders for over a year now, and thought I'd reserect this thread to report.

Honey-for-all is right - weak, small, or sick hives seem to drown a lot of bees while big strong healthy ones do not. No idea why, but it's true. So use them accordingly. I just use jar feeders for nucs.

I don't use the cap and ladders because 1) it adds expense, but mostly 2) without them the bees keep the feeders nice and clean.

After trying several thjngs to keep them from building comb in the feeders I have settled on using a cover made of thin plywood - wood panneling actually. The bees can still get in and out to access the feed, and it is just about 100% effective even in a strong crowded hive during a strong flow. Also very cheap and easy to make.

So for me (after more than a year of trial use - 40 feeders) frame feeders with plywood covers - stored in the hives year around are now my favored choice for strong hives. Jar feeders remain my best option for nucs or troubled hives.

I hope this is helpful.


----------

