# Spin Float Drum Puller



## davidsbees (Feb 22, 2010)

I guess since I have a sump next to the spinner it is easy to just reach into the spinner to clean. There is almost no reason to take the drum off exept to clean out the bottom groove ( nails, rocks, sand) at the end of the year so I've never made hoist just two guys on each side lifting straight up.


----------



## babybee (Mar 23, 2012)

Cook n Beals make 3 different models of drum pullers. It may be easier to order one rather than make one.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

I'm basing my puller off their 'cheap' model. It will cost me $200 tops, bit cheaper than what's listed 
I pull the drum every week, granulation issues.


----------



## Allen Martens (Jan 13, 2007)

I use an I bean, trolley, and chain hoist. Nice to be able to raise and lower the drum slowly. It would be nice to be able place the drum in a vertical position and rotate it. I usually only clean my drum once or twice a season so hard to justify spending too much money on drum removal. Not much ROI paying 4000 for drum removal.


----------



## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

We just use the small looped strap held in place by a couple of bolts that C&B included with the machine. Lifting is done with a forklift. We did it once mid season, only because we had shut down for a week, and again at year end clean up. We don't run any canola honey so we could probably make it a full season without a problem. 
Pat told me once that he has a customer who cleans his daily, he just kind of shrugged and said he really didn't know why, except that the guy is fanatic about cleanliness. He also said a few get by without even a year end cleanup.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

That guy who cleans everyday is my neighbour. Takes him 20 min to clean with his puller. 
I left mine for two weeks and granulation had already started caking along the baffles. Every Sunday became a good routine.

A ceiling rail is a very interesting idea.


----------



## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

Ian said:


> That guy who cleans everyday is my neighbour. Takes him 20 min to clean with his puller.
> I left mine for two weeks and granulation had already started caking along the baffles. Every Sunday became a good routine.
> 
> A ceiling rail is a very interesting idea.


Then does he melt the scrapings or just run them back through the next day?
Yes, Allens idea is a good one and a way it could probably be done alone


----------



## Allen Martens (Jan 13, 2007)

I built a little "room" around my spin float with an opening facing the extractor. The front can be closed with plastic for periods when I am not using the spin float and I put up a heater by the spin float during this time. Last year after 8 weeks I had no granulation. It is a bit of an echo chamber unfortunately. 

I also raised the floor 4 inches and sloped it towards the spin float and the portion under the spin float is sloped towards the front. Makes cleaning a breeze.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Pulling the drum up slowly is important. Getting the baffle past the knife is the fussy part, hard to do alone in a forklift. 



jim lyon said:


> Then does he melt the scrapings or just run them back through the next day?
> Yes, Allens idea is a good one and a way it could probably be done alone




I doubt he would run the cappings through again. 

And on that thought, I am planning on setting my melter up along side the spinner this season, melting everyday and salvaging the honey as we go. The only thing hitting the wax barrel will be the slum.


----------



## davidsbees (Feb 22, 2010)

I add a gallon or two of very hot water at start up and that takes care of any granulation. We have trouble with cotton and blue curl granulating quickly.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

davidsbees said:


> I add a gallon or two of very hot water at start up and that takes care of any granulation. We have trouble with cotton and blue curl granulating quickly.


That is an interesting thought. For the amount of honey sent through in a day that gallon or two would be negliable to the honey Moisture Content


----------



## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

I like to turn on the moyno for about a minute and allow the warmed honey to saturate the wax for a few minutes before resuming normal operation. I've learned that running your spinner at day's end after dumping for more than about 15 minutes can result in startup problems the next morning.


----------



## davidsbees (Feb 22, 2010)

My dad bought his first spin float in 1971 then fell off the wagon and got a fagor wax press used only a couple of years then traded it for the junked C&B. I've also rebuilt spinners for some locals. I melt my capping the next day (or they will start to ferment and taint the wax) in a large steam cooker then the slum goes in the solar melter then the trash.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

davidsbees said:


> My dad bought his first spin float in 1971 then fell off the wagon and got a fagor wax press used only a couple of years then traded it for the junked C&B. I've also rebuilt spinners for some locals. I melt my capping the next day (or they will start to ferment and taint the wax) in a large steam cooker then the slum goes in the solar melter then the trash.


Im a sucker for pics, got any of that steam cooker ?



jim lyon said:


> I like to turn on the moyno for about a minute and allow the warmed honey to saturate the wax for a few minutes before resuming normal operation. I've learned that running your spinner at day's end after dumping for more than about 15 minutes can result in startup problems the next morning.


Good tip, mine usually gets run more than 15 min after dumping because... Who knows why lol. I'll try to keep the final spin short


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Another add on I am currently building for the spinner is a SS paddle mixer in my wax collection unit. My heat exchanger was plugging too much last season causing some greif. I tend to produce lots of wax lol . 
I think the issue will be relieved by a better mixed slurry.


----------



## davidsbees (Feb 22, 2010)

Had a Canadian beekeeper from SK come by last week took lots of pictures and said he's headed home with lots of ideas. Ian when I get out to the shop I'll take a picture of the cooker.


----------



## Allen Martens (Jan 13, 2007)

I would love to see pictures of the steam cooker as well.

Ian what have you got in mind for a mixer. I've been scratching my head for a solution as well.


----------



## davidsbees (Feb 22, 2010)

I bought the cooker at a school Distric auction felt bad later because I out bid the local soup kitchen. I add 5 gallons water bring to a boil then settle for a few hours then lattle of the free wax.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

davidsbees said:


> I bought the cooker at a school Distric auction felt bad later because I out bid the local soup kitchen. I add 5 gallons water bring to a boil then settle for a few hours then lattle of the free wax.


Ah you criminal!! Where is you compassion! LOL, ha ha ha 

I never have seen one that big, looks good!


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Allen Martens said:


> Ian what have you got in mind for a mixer. I've been scratching my head for a solution as well.


Give me a week, I'll put up some pics after its together. 
Basically it's a rotating shaft through the tank simply with 4 paddles placed across the length of the shaft. I'm salvaging the SS parts off an old milk tank mixer. Cutting it apart and welding it to fit. The paddle will be turned off the auger motor drive, with the speed reduced down to half.
The sealed bearing will be machined into a aluminum bracket which will keep a seal and allowing me to place the mixing unit further down into the slurry.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Here is the pic of the solenoid I put in. I have it run when the two out flow viking pumps are running. I think the timing would match better wired into the inflow continental pump switch but that pump was across the room and not as handy. This set up works great. I turn the water off until middle of the morning then have it on for the rest of the day. 

I have two viking out flow pumps both wired on separate switches. One pump can usually keep up. The second helps with the heavy flows but more importantly it provides a back up for when one breaker flips or a belt slips or from what ever endless reasons pumps fail. They are tucked into the corner of the shed and out of sight. This way a routine check is all that is needed.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

I completed my drum puller and it works perfectly. I simply insert my drum clamp, hitch the cable onto the drum clamp and crank it up and out. It takes me a matter of seconds to remove the drum and will make clean out effortless. Cost me $100 if that and all said, a good days work.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Ian said:


> Give me a week, I'll put up some pics after its together.
> Basically it's a rotating shaft through the tank simply with 4 paddles placed across the length of the shaft. I'm salvaging the SS parts off an old milk tank mixer. Cutting it apart and welding it to fit. The paddle will be turned off the auger motor drive, with the speed reduced down to half.
> The sealed bearing will be machined into a aluminum bracket which will keep a seal and allowing me to place the mixing unit further down into the slurry.


Not done yet, but here is the idea. I just have to modify my drive sprocket, drill in some bearing block holes, install the safety grate and it will be ready to go. It is geared to turn once for every three auger turns.


----------



## Allen Martens (Jan 13, 2007)

Very nice. That should mix the wax and honey much better. Do you have a grate on your wax collecting system or do you run it without one? I would appreciate if you posted pictures of the finished product. 

Pulling the drum is now a one person job for you and much more controlled.

How does your drum puller get fastened to the drum? I am not happy with mine and would like to come up with a quicker, more secure attachment.


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

Ian, I see you have a small heat exchange. Did you build that heat exchange yourself or did you buy that heat exchange?


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Allen Martens said:


> How does your drum puller get fastened to the drum? I am not happy with mine and would like to come up with a quicker, more secure attachment.


It is a three piece clamp assembly bolted in place with tabs to keep the drum from shifting.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

BMAC said:


> Ian, I see you have a small heat exchange. Did you build that heat exchange yourself or did you buy that heat exchange?


I am not sure which heat exchange your referring to/


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

Hanging on the wall just above the windown running to your spin float.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

That is from Cooks and Beals.
I'm not that good with a welding stick


----------



## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

It looks nice and compact. I don't mean to derail this thread but I am very interested in the heat exchange. Would you mind taking a close up picture of it?

I think I am going to build my own, I just would like to see what theirs looks like in a real pic.


----------



## Allen Martens (Jan 13, 2007)

Thanks Ian. Some nice ideas. I will need to make some modifications to my puller.


----------



## beekeeper_sd (Oct 30, 2008)

We also pour about 3/4 gallon of warm water in spin float when starting it up and have a lot less problems with granulation.


----------



## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Here is a quick vid of my wax mixer in action. It works very well, we have not had to mix all season. It does help reduce the amount of material found plugging the heat exchanger but it still does not eliminate the problem. We clean the cap at the end of each day instead of twice a day as before. 

https://youtu.be/DH95KAzuXCI


----------

