# Small Hive Beetle damage to hives;



## NasalSponge (Jul 22, 2008)

If the hive is strong there isn't much effect, around here anyway, but let the hive get weak and, well, it is MUCH worse than wax moths. What to look for, little black beetles on the inner cover or tops of the frames, sometimes my bees will build a propolis wall around them which keeps them pinned up until I pull the frame and let them loose. There are lots of different opinions on your last question....I personally use the Freeman trap but have been eying the beetle blaster as well.


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## Ted Kretschmann (Feb 2, 2011)

I hope you never have many problems with the bug from hell. There are actually two very related species of them here in the USA. Both are from South Africa. We seem to have both types here in Alabama. One has the unique character of causing the honey to ferment and run out the entrance of the hive. The larvae will be crawling around in greasy WADS. In other words the colony was slimed. The other species is just as lethal. But it frasses and powders the colony. So if you see a yellow tan powder out the front of your beehive, you can rest assured hive beetles were the culprit. Tip the colony back and take a stick and rake around in the powder. You will see thousands of beetle larvae in the powder. USE SUNLIGHT(it is lethal to beetles and larvae) and FIREANTS (like to eat the larvae) to your advantage. Keep strong colonies. We do not work our bees invasively in late July and August. We have found out that the less you mess with your bees in the South during that time the less bee hives we loose. Traps help. But in the long run, adjust your management to mitigate the effects of hive beetles. TK


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## Growing Boy (Jan 28, 2009)

This is just my experience and nothing more but worth note.
We have some 10,000 sq,ft. of flower beds here. After moving back here after some years away they all had to be renovated. After weed genocide we started putting down 6-8 inches of shredded cypress mulch. Much to my amazement the fire ants avoided the beds like the plague. (Cypress contains natural insect repellants.) With a bit of trepidation I tried mulching under my hives. They are raised 2 feet above ground level so it didn't bother the bees at all but................
Shazam no fire ants and no shb. Granted I didn't have a great problem before but in theory the mulch would prevent them from reaching the soil and thusly interupt their lifecycle. Just a theory.


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## MichaBees (Sep 26, 2010)

I have a personal problem with those “things”; they seem to like my bee’s honey as much as I like it.
The hives they are allowed to take over seem to never recover. I will be disassembling a couple, and will be giving them new boxes and discarding the old frames and giving them a new set of frames –maybe they will recover then. Robert Russell explains it real well. According to my interpretation of his teachings, the beetles will slime the hives and leave their fragrance as an attractive to other “things” and the queens will not use those slimed frames anymore; that is what is happening with my frames. There are no beetles now, but the queen will not touch the areas previously contaminated. 

I am going to treat the soil and stabilize it to bring it to 95+ density, by simply applying special compounds. Concrete is better –I know, but out of the question due to cash constrains. I am treating the ground around the hives to simulate “soil cement”. Since the recommended drenching treatment is only 3’ in front of the hive, I will mimic that. 
Now, I seriously doubt these evil creatures can bring a bulldozer and dig down thru 4” of treated soil cement plus an underlayment of lime to propagate. :waiting:


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## Ted Kretschmann (Feb 2, 2011)

You are going to have to use a lot of cement. The larvae will crawl nine to twelve feet away from the hive to pupate. TED


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## MichaBees (Sep 26, 2010)

This is not cement I am talking about, it is some “green” product derived from tree sap.
It is a binder that closes the spaces between the molecules that compose soil. 
It is used for dust control or soil stabilizer. 
The process is similar to what in engineering terms is call “soil cement”


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## Jpoindexter (Oct 22, 2010)

I hate hive beetles. They destroyed several of my hives last year. The best thing I did was put my hives in full sun and installed Freeman hive beetle traps. I tried the little black hive beetle trap, but didn't have much luck.


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## JRH (Dec 30, 2010)

The FatBeeMan has a video on youtube that has been seen 12,678 times. In it, he shows how to make a small hive beetle trap out of inexpensive materials.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_KDPp8H6PU

It takes practically no time to make and install.

Would someone who has tried this please comment? (We don't have SHBs in Vermont, so I have no idea.) If it does, I am amazed that so many people report so much trouble with SHBs.


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## MichaBees (Sep 26, 2010)

I tried those traps; no luck with them.
Tried the oil traps, some luck.
Have screen bottoms and oil pans or oiled sheets, some luck. 

Now I will be trying Russells' BeetleJuice, will tell you how I did.


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## USCBeeMan (Feb 7, 2009)

Lost over 20 colonies to them last year. Many were super strong hives at first. 

Larva will travel up to 100' (maybe more)! Not 20-30'.

Used Hood traps, AJ Beetle Eaters, Beetle Blasters, trays with DE with some results but not enough to control the SHBs when you see them by the 100s at a time thoughout a hive.

I have gone through a hive frame by frame and killed better than 90% off each frame and still loose the hive.

I HATE THEM!!!!

Will try some tarp this year and (since I read above) cypress mulch. 

3 hives are already infested and it's just early March in TN!!

Made up some kill traps using corrogated plastic, old Crisco, and boric acid. Stapled them to the top of frames.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

WE HATE THEM TOO!!!

We put together about 100 nucs last summer... 41 made it!! The reason 59 did not make it was SHB. We seem to lose them at the point that they went from the Nuc to the hive body. They really have to build up fast or the SHB get them. We moved the nuc yard a few miles and even that didn't help. This year we have already soaked the nuc yard with GardStar... hope that helps. Their probably is something to the admonition about not manipulating the hives too much. Our well established hives seem to be able to control the SHB.


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## Tia (Nov 19, 2003)

I dare not have more than two honey supers on a hive at one time, which means I'm harvesting all summer long. But if I add that third it seems there aren't enough bees to properly patrol the area and the SHB gets ahold. First thorough examination of the spring found SHB in one hive only, but if they're in one, they'll be in all of them in no time. I use beneficial nematodes, chickens, Freeman traps, West traps and beetle eaters. I've never lost a hive to SHB but I've lost several supers of honey.


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## JRH (Dec 30, 2010)

USCBeeMan said:


> Made up some kill traps using corrugated plastic, old Crisco, and boric acid. Stapled them to the top of frames.


Did you see the FatBeeMan video mentioned above? I think he puts his traps on the bottom board. He claims fantastic results. Maybe they only arrive at the top of the hive after they have entered through the bottom and infested the entire hive.

I am still wondering if anyone here has seen the video AND used his technique AND still has problems with SHBs.


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## rgould (Apr 3, 2009)

I used them last year with some success. I had 2 hives with screened inner covers and 2 hives with solid inner covers and the SHB were not nearly as bad in the hives with the screened inner covers. I am not sure why. All of the hives were on SBB. I learned my first year not to take anything for granted when it comes to SHB, they can destroy a hive very quickly.


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## Jpoindexter (Oct 22, 2010)

MichaBees - 
I'm with you there - no luck with the political sign beetle traps. The oil traps are the best, but by far the best advice I got was from an old timer. He laughed and told me to put my hives in full sun. He didn't even ask if they were already. They weren't. They were in full shade. After I moved them to full sun, I haven't lost another. I still see them when I open the hive, but the bees seem to keep them at bay.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

I agree... well established hives, sitting in the sun does seem the best way to contain the SHB.


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## Nabber86 (Apr 15, 2009)

Does anyone know if there are there a lot of SHBs in Kansas? Seems like most of you with problems are located in the south.


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## NasalSponge (Jul 22, 2008)

I know we have them in Oklahoma, not like in the SE but they are here.


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## JRH (Dec 30, 2010)

rgould said:


> I used them last year with some success.


What part of the hive did you put them in? Thanks.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

rgould said:


> ... I had 2 hives with screened inner covers and 2 hives with solid inner covers and the SHB were not nearly as bad in the hives with the screened inner covers...


I made some homemade "feeder" screens using large mesh screen my first year and set an empity super over them. They just gave SHBs a place to escape the wrath of the bees and sit in safety and comfort while the SHB made rude hand jesters at my girls. inch:

Migratory lids or T lids and small mesh screened inner covers force SHB to live with the wrath of the bees or find somewhere else to live. From the SHB-bee interactions that I've seen, I suspect bees hate SHBs more that USCBeeMan hates them! Now if someone made ittisy bittsy hive tools the bees could use to squash SHB there would be no SHB problems.


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## Russ (Sep 9, 2001)

Man, I didn't realize how many of you guys have the SHB in their hives. Looks like I opened up a can of WORMS but the exchange is good. Lots of good information from all you guys. Maybe we can learn what works and what doesn't from all the other fellows experiences. The Cyrpuss mulch sounds interesting, has anyone else tried it and what was your results. Thanks for everyone sharing. Dale


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Russ said:


> What is the best way to treat for them?


The best way to treat for them is thru good hive managment, keeping strong colonies in your hives. A strong/healthy colony can manage a certain level of SHBs. When they get ahead of the bees, then you have to resort to control methods. But your first job in addressing the problem should be why are they a problem? And then go from there.

Others w/ more experience of SHBs being a problem will and can tell you about the control methods and mediums. Best of beekeeping luck.


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## JRH (Dec 30, 2010)

sqkcrk said:


> When they get ahead of the bees, then you have to resort to control methods.


Wouldn't it make more sense to use the control measures before "they get ahead of the bees?"

Am curious to hear whether anyone has used the Fatbeeman's traps and technique (see the youtube video) and found that it did not work.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Well, it would, I guess. But to tell you when that is is too subjective and if pesticides are necassary I don't advocate propholactic use of them. Tho I guess oil bath traps are not really a problem that I know of pesticidewise.


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## scdw43 (Aug 14, 2008)

If you have enough bees to cover the drawn combs in the hive they are not a problem. Don't start a nuc with 2 frames of bees and ten frames of drawn comb. Start a nuc with 2 frames of brood and bees and a frame of feed. Fill out the box with foundation. If you use a ripe cell or a mated queen the population of bees will stay enough to keep the SHB's at bay until the queen starts lying. SHB are not a problem until the weather gets hot. The hotter it gets the more careful you have to be.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

JRH said:


> Wouldn't it make more sense to use the control measures before "they get ahead of the bees?"...


I don't know that any kind of control measures are best since all traps, even those using a chemical pesticide, employ some type of bait or lure to first draw in, or ensnare the SHB before killing them. The question is, “are we attracting more SHB than we kill or do we kill more SHB than we attract?” If the latter is true would not SHB soon be on the EPA’s Endangered Species List? 

IMHO, at the end of the day, beetle resistant bees coupled with changes in bee husbandry (like those recommended by T.K. from Alabama) will be more important than "control" measures. For instance, it seems to me a weak nuc or late split plays to the SHB strength. It may even come down to things like nixing kitchen and home garden compost heaps. It seems SHB will abandon several strong hives in order to gang up on a single weak one. SHB are only interested in using a hive as a nursery, and to do this the SHB need to idenify the weak hive before ganging up to overpower the bees.


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## Davebcrzy (Mar 12, 2011)

Last summer I had 6 hives. I have four of them on a reclaimed gravel pit. The ground is hard and filled with rocks. While I have some shb in those hives I have never had to treat them with anything. However, the other hives are a different story. The ground under these hives is soft. These hives I have to really watch.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

Davebcrzy said:


> ... The ground under these hives is soft. These hives I have to really watch.


Red land, Gray land, Sandy land, Delta land or Black Belt land?


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## Davebcrzy (Mar 12, 2011)

It is delta land


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## Ted Kretschmann (Feb 2, 2011)

Soil PH plays a part on how well the "bug from hell" is able to reproduce and pupate. Something else you have to realize. The SHB is a sap beetle and has alternate hosts outside and away from beehives. In simple terms, there is something else out in the woods that this critter eats and lives on and it "aint" beehives. That is why it is SO hard to eradicate. A beehive to a Small hive beetle is basically a combination buffet, bordello and travels rest station. The scientist that bee, need to figure out a way to irradiate and sterilize this critter. Thus release the sterile females or males, then cause the species to collapse, like they did the screwworm fly. TK


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

Davebcrzy said:


> It is delta land


I've read that SHB larva and pupa do well in sandy land. In red land and clay gray land not so well. I guess the Delta's alluvial soil is sandy enough.

But if SHB can fly 5 miles a day I don't see now it matters unless the SHB is somehow judging how easy it will be for its larva to pupate in the soil around our hives.


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## rrussell6870 (May 14, 2009)

Scrapfe said:


> “are we attracting more SHB than we kill or do we kill more SHB than we attract?” If the latter is true would not SHB soon be on the EPA’s Endangered Species List?
> 
> IMHO, at the end of the day, beetle resistant bees coupled with changes in bee husbandry


It's actually the strong colonies that attract shb to the yard (especially through fanning in the summer heat... those little boogers can smell 2ppb (parts per billion) of bee bread from miles away... so the baits within the traps are no threat in comparison to the actual hive itself...

Shb also thrive on pulpy fruits... so melons that get busted or left in the fields due to size or shape, trash heaps, peach orchards after harvest, etc... are all major beetle factories... thats why they always get worse in the summer after the harvests... its the next generations after sliming the rotting fruit... that's also why they will keep coming back, no matter how many we kill in the bee yards...

We have been working on a hygienic strain called "Tigers" that is not deterred by the slime... thus they are able to clean out the shb larvae as it hatches... which means no more losses... but they will not be ready to release until 2012 at the earliest...

Hope this helps!


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## Ted Kretschmann (Feb 2, 2011)

The species is more like saturation bombing. There are so many of them, a couple of them will find the right beehive sitting on the right soil in any geographic area. Then BINGO, reproduction, and a gazillion more hive beetles. TK


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## JRH (Dec 30, 2010)

Regarding the prophylactic use of pesticides ...



sqkcrk said:


> to tell you when that is is too subjective and if pesticides are necassary I don't advocate propholactic use of them. Tho I guess oil bath traps are not really a problem that I know of pesticidewise.


 ... this comment makes me wonder if you have seen the video. The "pesticide" recommended is good old boric acid. The attractant is Crisco.

Am curious to hear whether anyone has used the Fatbeeman's traps and technique (see the youtube video) and found that it did not work, particularly if used before the hive is infested.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

rrussell6870 said:


> It's actually the strong colonies that attract shb to the yard ...Shb also thrive on pulpy fruits... melons that get busted or left in the fields due to size or shape, trash heaps, peach orchards after harvest, etc...


That is why I suggested that in the future, garden and kitchen compost heaps would be verboten to beekeepers.

What is the likely hood that a smaller entrance or one not as easy for shb to navigate will help the problem?

Do you feel the current 10-frame by 3/4 inch entrance is inviting SHB damage?

The day I started again with bees I picked up my packages at the post office. That was also the day I saw my first SHB, it was cringing behind a wooden brace and the package wire. I am kind of a hard-shelled old reprobate and not one to humanize an insect, but I swear 2 the all mighty that my bees glare at SHB.


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## rrussell6870 (May 14, 2009)

Jrh,

The political sign pieces have too small of an opening for the large adult female shb... and guess which beetles are the ones that lay eggs... lol... the second issue that we noted was in cases where there was a leaking wall or top, the water would spread the boric acid along the bottom board after the beetles had borrowed through the Cisco... 

Most are using roach gel mixed with fermented pollen bait inside of traps so that bees cannot access it...


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## rrussell6870 (May 14, 2009)

Scrapfe,

Entrance reducers are a great help in beetle control... of course during swarm season, they need to be open... baited traps, clean bee yards, good tops, and a mixture of full sun and afternoon shade are huge helps as well... keep in mind that its the pollen that the beetles are attracted by and the jelly in the brood cells that they want to eat most...


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## jtow (Mar 30, 2011)

How has the Beetle Juice worked for you?


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## ncsteeler (Apr 15, 2009)

I wonder how the use of screened bottoms for mites has hurt us by giving beetles easy access and an even easier way to get larvae back to the ground

What about placing the CD trap design under the hive with Roach killer/fipronil in it? Lay it on the cinder blocks or hive stand?


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## Beeboy01 (May 20, 2008)

I've been battling SHB in my hives since I moved to Florida. One thing that I have found that really works is to take a screened bottom board and put it over a plastic tray or container that has about 1/2 inch of soapy water in it. When I open up a hive and find a frame with SHBs on it I'll smack both sides of the frame off the screened bottom board. The bees bounce off the screen and fly away a little POed while the SHB's fall through the screen and drown in the soapy water. I was able to kill about 300 SHBs in one of my hives in under a week. I was checking the hive every two or three days and was just pulling the two outside frames in the top box where the bees were herding the SHBs. I also use Beetle Blasters in all my hives but being able to just go in and clear out an infestation when you see it really keeps the SHBs under control. Every time I open my hives I'll have my SHB death trap ready to use, I just love counting the dead beetles floating in the soapy water at the end of the day. It's a quick and cheap way to knock SHB's out of a hive, after all you are already in the hive performing a inspection anyways. My first design was a frame made out of 1x2's screened over with 1/4 hardware screen which worked fine, I just starting using a SBB this year to see if it holds up. I have heard that using diatomatous earth around the base of the hive will kill the larva stage as it crawls out of the hive and across the ground before it pupates.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

I hear an adult beetle can fly 5 miles at a stretch just getting to your place.


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## BillyH (Apr 19, 2010)

Here is a good link I thank it will be some good reading on SHB.
http://entomology.ifas.ufl.edu/creatures/misc/bees/small_hive_beetle.htm


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

rrussell6870 said:


> Scrapfe,
> 
> Entrance reducers are a great help in beetle control... of course during swarm season, they need to be open... baited traps, clean bee yards, good tops, and *a mixture of full sun and afternoon shade are huge helps* as well... keep in mind that its the pollen that the beetles are attracted by and the jelly in the brood cells that they want to eat most...


Rather than full sun all day you believe that shade in the afternoon is good then? I'm debating on placement of my new bee yard. There is a stand of pine trees on the west end of the property that gives me the option of having afternoon shade or not (move the bee yard closer or further away from the trees). I can vary the timing of the shade from right after noon until late in the afternoon. I'm weighing the pros and cons of having some late afternoon shade. If you have more thoughts on afternoon shade I would love to hear them, Dr. Russell.

Thanks,
Ed


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## rrussell6870 (May 14, 2009)

Absolutely Ed. For those of us in the south, our bees have to contend with the heat just as much as they have to contend with shb... in the full sun in MS the internal temperature of a hive can reach 120+ degrees... that is too hot for optimal bee health... adding stresses such as these can leave your bees vulnerable to other threats as well... sure the higher temps are not preferred by shb or varroa, but keeping these pests under control is not our main goal in bee keeping... our main goal is to keep healthy, productive bees... I have seen hives in southern Louisiana with comb literally melting and running out the entrance of the hives because the bee keeper had been told to go with full sun to keep shb out... guess where all the bees were.. that's right, in trees in a nearby pine thicket.. fully shaded and much happier trying to start all over with no stores, walls, roof, or comb than they were in the hives... when we broke down the equipment, we found that it was primarily the freshest brood combs that had completely melted away and that when the bees absconded, the beetles still moved in... within 6 days time, all 120 hives were slimed and that poor fellow had to replace every single comb in every hive and completely start from scratch... yes bees are tropical creatures, and have gotten air circulation in their hives down to a perfect science... but, add a metal top, full southern sun, low or no breeze blowing, and a steamy high humidity level to the equation and you may find yourself in a bind very quickly... Especially for those that use natural cell and/or cycle out dark brood comb that is less than 5 seasons old. So many people seem to over look the fact that shb is a tropical creature as well... so it can adapt to the heat well, especially in the sort amount of time that it needs to do its job... to add to that, shb HAVE to find a place to reproduce, its a very strong instinct for insects and in many cases its even more powerful than the instinct to feed... bee hives provide the resources necessary for shb to fulfil both of these needs at once, so putting ul with the heat is not beyond them if there are no easier targets in close proximity... that goes both ways though... some seem to remember that shb are tropical creatures, and thus do not feel concerned about them reaching the northern regions... but again, one must remember that the bees are also tropical creatures, so if you can keep bees in your climate, shb can make it there to... especially when one considers that shb will live within the clusters of the hive and even be fed by the bees throughout winter, only to destroy the colony in spring... a recent study using internal hive cameras to observe the activities of shb within the cluster during the winter revealed that when the temps were cold enough to case the bees to become still in the cluster, the shb were still moving around undaunted... it was actually around 12 degrees colder before the beetles became as dormant as the bees... that should tell us something right there... shb may very well be more adaptive to temperature variations than the honey bees that they prey on... scary thought... 

As for your situation, I would suggest staying out from the trees (hopefully they are tall trees thus casting a long shadow so you do not have to be terribly close to the woodline to receive the shelter of its shade) just far enough that shade starts to reach your hives between 1pm & 3 pm and continues on from there. The earliest morning sun is great for production (but doesn't give the bee keeper much of a cool period to work hives in during summer), and the afternoon shade will give them a chance to cool thongs down a tad while still not being completely under the tree canopy. 

Hope this helps!


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

I really appreciate the feedback, Dr. Russell. I have really been wrestling over the placement of the yard. What you've stated makes sense to me and will help me make a decision.

After doing a lot of reading I've come to the conclusion in my feeble mind (for now  )that it's not the heat factor with the SHB, but rather the humidity factor that appears to decrease the population of beetles in a hive that is in full sun. In other words, an arid environment isn't hospitable to the beetles and they try to avoid it. I believe that they can determine the general type of environment surrounding the hive location and that a moist humidity level might be a major requirement for them. Low humidity would mean dry ground and not so good for pupating beetles whereas higher/moderate humidity would be more attractive to them. As you stated, the actual heat doesn't really bother them. Full sun, I believe, is most often recommended simply because in most situations where you have full sun it also tends to be dry and to have lower localized humidity. It would be interesting to know how beetles react to hives placed in a moist, but full sun environment versus a dry and full sun environment...this could be stretched on to include a dry but partial shade environment. Sorry...I'm rambling. 

Thanks again,
Ed


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## beemandan (Dec 5, 2005)

Dr Russell? I know your father was an entomologist but I wasn’t aware that you had your PhD. Am I mistaken? 

Absolute, full sun here. In the same yards, my hives in full sun have substantially fewer beetles than those 100ft away with afternoon shade. The difference is dramatic. 

I’ve said it before. If you travel to south GA and into Fl and look into those melon fields you will see hives that have been placed for pollination. In the blazing sun! No screen bottoms….zip! Bees discovered evaporative cooling eons before mankind ever figured it out.


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

Dan, thanks for the added input! Anybody else ever feel like a yo-yo?

As for the reference to "Dr" Russell, that was probably just an error on my part...I make lot's of them! I had it in my mind that he had a doctorate. But, hey, compared to me his experience level puts him up there around "doctor" level...me, I'm down there around "Igor" level. 

Do you detect any difference in moisture levels around the differently placed hives....possibly more ground moisture around the partial shaded area? 

Dan, excluding shb populations, do you detect a difference in bee health or honey production between hives in the two different areas?

I have thought of making some shade screens from some window shading mesh. They would be large enough to cover the top covers with maybe an inch overhang and have standoffs keeping them about an inch above the top cover. I've also considered building some for the west side of the hives. The shade screens would only shade the hives and not the surrounding ground thus keeping the hives possibly cooler but the surrounding ground still hot and dry.

The hives in the melon patches without sbb seem to handle shb ok? Mites? Since I've been interested in getting bees I've taken it for granted that I would go with sbb on my hives. Being in the south ssb seem to be the best way to go...but, what about solid bottom boards in the south?

Ed


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## beemandan (Dec 5, 2005)

I’ve been converting to screened bottoms….but not because I like them. A local farmer’s market requires that I be Certified Naturally Grown. The CNG folks require SBB. I’d tried SBBs in the past and couldn’t detect a significant difference in varroa populations. With the arrival of shb I came to believe that SBBs made their lives easier. As the bees attempt to sequester beetles away from the brood nest, the beetles were able to easily escape through the screens and the bees couldn’t follow. In addition, when the shb larvae are mature and must leave the hive, they need only drop through the screen. With a solid bottom those same larvae must run a gauntlet of bees in order to get out. So, I don’t like screened bottoms but am converting to them…..go figure.

My bees have managed the heat without problems using solid bottoms. I’ve never had comb melt in a healthy hive. The most important thing, in my opinion, is that there is a source of water nearby. I would never recommend using an entrance reducer for shb control in the sun…..or the shade for that matter. I’ve watched beetles land on a landing board and walk into the entrance of a hive…with guard bees nearby…and the beetles aren’t challenged. And surely, with a screened bottom it wouldn’t help keep them out either.

I haven’t noticed any difference in honey production between full sun hives and those in partial shade (all of my full shade hives are now gone). By the time the real heat arrives, our nectar flow has ended. Brood production continues throughout the summer. Even in full sun. 

Anyway…I’m not looking for an argument with ‘Dr’ Russell but my experience with shb is very different from his.


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## schmism (Feb 7, 2009)

JRH said:


> The FatBeeMan has a video on youtube that has been seen 12,678 times. In it, he shows how to make a small hive beetle trap out of inexpensive materials.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_KDPp8H6PU


speaking of video... i prefer john pluta's video of a badly infested hive with SHB.... its clear what/how they damage the hive when you see the vid.

http://www.youtube.com/user/johnpluta#p/search/1/OQDFl_giWwc


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## USCBeeMan (Feb 7, 2009)

Intheswamp said:


> Rather than full sun all day you believe that shade in the afternoon is good then? I'm debating on placement of my new bee yard. There is a stand of pine trees on the west end of the property that gives me the option of having afternoon shade or not (move the bee yard closer or further away from the trees). I can vary the timing of the shade from right after noon until late in the afternoon. I'm weighing the pros and cons of having some late afternoon shade. If you have more thoughts on afternoon shade I would love to hear them, Dr. Russell.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ed


I have some in partial shade and some in full sun in a field on a rock that protrudes out of the ground. Currently my worst infestations are those that are in full sun. Having said that, if they are in the shade put something down as a barrier on the ground. I put down plastic several layers thick. Make sure too that you are not watering plants near the hive as that is a 100% sure way to get a 100% SHB kill off of your hive(s).


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

schmism said:


> speaking of video... i prefer john pluta's video of a badly infested hive with SHB.... its clear what/how they damage the hive when you see the vid.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/johnpluta#p/search/1/OQDFl_giWwc


Nasty.


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

beemandan said:


> I’ve been converting to screened bottoms….but not because I like them. A local farmer’s market requires that I be Certified Naturally Grown. The CNG folks require SBB. I’d tried SBBs in the past and couldn’t detect a significant difference in varroa populations. With the arrival of shb I came to believe that SBBs made their lives easier. As the bees attempt to sequester beetles away from the brood nest, the beetles were able to easily escape through the screens and the bees couldn’t follow. In addition, when the shb larvae are mature and must leave the hive, they need only drop through the screen. With a solid bottom those same larvae must run a gauntlet of bees in order to get out. So, I don’t like screened bottoms but am converting to them…..go figure.
> Interesting that CNG requires screen bottoms...but it makes sense since all bee trees have screen bottoms. I haven't checked, but I'm thinking you are a commercial/large sideliner? Being a hobbiest I'm looking to use oil pans on my screened bottoms. For a person with lots of hives I can see where the oil trap pans would be a hassle. My mentor doesn't like them as he says they're too messy...apparently bad experience in times past with them. He currently only uses in-hive traps...but, he lost an outlaying hive a couple of weeks ago to the beetles.
> 
> My bees have managed the heat without problems using solid bottoms. I’ve never had comb melt in a healthy hive. The most important thing, in my opinion, is that there is a source of water nearby. I would never recommend using an entrance reducer for shb control in the sun…..or the shade for that matter. I’ve watched beetles land on a landing board and walk into the entrance of a hive…with guard bees nearby…and the beetles aren’t challenged. And surely, with a screened bottom it wouldn’t help keep them out either.
> ...


Best wishes,
Ed


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

USCBeeMan said:


> I have some in partial shade and some in full sun in a field on a rock that protrudes out of the ground. Currently my worst infestations are those that are in full sun. Having said that, if they are in the shade put something down as a barrier on the ground. I put down plastic several layers thick. Make sure too that you are not watering plants near the hive as that is a 100% sure way to get a 100% SHB kill off of your hive(s).


Sufficient ground moisture strikes me as being a factor that enhances shb "homesteading"...a more arid condition is less desireable for them, I believe. Interesting that your full sun hives have presently have the worst infestations...have you been using the same type/amount of shb management on both the shady and sunny hives?

Ed


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## guyross (Feb 18, 2011)

I us it and it works great as an attractant. Just mix in a dab of Combat roach gel. I mix it when loading the CD traps.


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## guyross (Feb 18, 2011)

Have you ever put your feet in the scorching white sand on to the Gulf Coast beaches. My bet is a larva cant high step it like I do.


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

guyross said:


> I us it and it works great as an attractant. Just mix in a dab of Combat roach gel. I mix it when loading the CD traps.


I'm lost here, guyross...???


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

guyross said:


> Have you ever put your feet in the scorching white sand on to the Gulf Coast beaches. My bet is a larva cant high step it like I do.


From what I've read they'll crawl across hot black asphalt!!


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## guyross (Feb 18, 2011)

Sorry Swamp here are some pictures of I'm using.https://picasaweb.google.com/113400947700542391177/CDSHBTrap?authuser=0&feat=directlink


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## guyross (Feb 18, 2011)

They must be from Hell. I talked to a Auburn grad that has a lawn spraying business. He said that timing was everything when it comes to pesticides like Japanese beetles. He wasn't aware of or daemon beetle.


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## worker (Aug 23, 2014)

@Ted Kretschmann or anyone who can answer this question: I too am beekeeping in the South, but am very new to this. What does it mean to "work bees invasively?" Would this include opening the hive at all, or just harvesting honey?

-Sen


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