# Adding empty frame to brood nest



## tech.35058 (Jul 29, 2013)

What is IBDS?
IF you lost your hives last year, how do you have 2nd year queens?
" 3 frames of brood, 2 of capped honey or nectar and pollen in a 10 frame deep box. "
so each 10 frame deep has 5 empty frames in it? or drawn comb from last year? When I take them out of the nuc box, I just consider them a "small colony"
If there is a lot of turmoil getting in & out open up the entrance some. ( sorry, I don't do facebook)
IF you have a lot of bees, consider splitting a frame of new brood & some food stores into a nuc box, if you have one, for a spare queen
When it gets to be "not queen season" & you need one, it really nice to have a spare. 
Especially if your present queens are second year queens, they may supercede at a poor time, no drones, bad mating weather or something.
doing it this way, YOU pick when.
Good luck ... CE


----------



## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

I'd pull a frame of honey and put it in the middle of a 5 frame super, and put your empty fram in the place you pulled it from.

The bees will draw the frame in the bottom box quickly as long as they are fed or on a flow.
As soon as it has a substantial amount of stores, move it up top and replace it with another frame to draw.

The bees won't swarm as long as they perceive the brood nest isn't back-filled, which they won't with the empty fram next to brood.

You can keep doing this right on up to a third or fourth box... just pulling a frame from each of t eh lower boxes as they fill and putting them inthe third (top) box as the brood nest expands.


----------



## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

All beekeeping is local, but if the bees are packing a nuc, it's time to move them to a bigger box!

A bigger box will solve your space problems in one go, at least temporarily until they expand enough to need still another box. 

If you think your weather remains too chilly for a bigger box (too much empty space) then you could temporarily fill some of the empty space with dummy boards. I live in northern NY and I use this strategy to overwinter under-sized and nuc colonies in larger boxes. But my wnter climate is fierce compared to yours and certainly by time you are getting loads of pollen your weather should be warm enough to shift them over.

I would not expand the access until the colony was big enough to defed itself, and certainly not if you are stlll feeding. I have huge colonies (think four, 10-frame deeps) that use a single 1" diameter hole all summer long. There is some congestion, occasionally, but the bees seem to work it out just fine and this smaller entrance means they don't have to devote as many bees to guarding. 

I'm sorry, I also do not use Facebook. A pic posted here would be useful.

I'm assuming that "second-year queens" are the same as over-wintered queens, though in a winter-free climate?

Also although it's generally good to keep frames in the same positions, it is fairly often not possible. Don't make yourself crazy over that inconsequential detail. Keep an eye on the bigger issues - and the bees will adapt just fine.

I, too, am curious about IBDS - what is it?

Enj.


----------



## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

Did you guys fail to read the original post? they are already in a 10 frame hive! so putting a 5 frame super will be rather redundant. You are giving the Poster great advice, Unfortunately it does not correspond with what he is telling us.

The 5 frame nuc, Is in a 10 frame hive< I would assume you have 5 empty frames, all which are now covered with bees from your post. This is great news because it means you do not have too much empty space. the girls are covering the empty frames to draw them out. as soon as they have 80% of the 10 frames drawn I would add a second 10 frame body with frames if you have a 10 frame hive and every frame is covered while the foragers are out . You have a good strong hive. By the time they get the frames drawn it will be even stronger. My bet is as long as your flow does not peter out. they will soon crowd the second. when that is 80% drawn add a honey super. and so on and so on.


----------



## Dragiša-Peđa Ranković (Feb 24, 2015)

lilhouseonprairie said:


> So the rule is to, generally, put the frames back the way you found them, right?
> 
> So when/if do you incorporate new frames into a brood nest on a nuc to encourage them to draw new frames and make room for the queen?
> 
> ...


If you have one colony in that hive you have to expand.
Put empty frame or with fondation between polen/honey frame and brood frame, left side of the hive. After a 5-7 check again you should continue expanding. Wait until they build complete then give it again. They look strong. In a week you may give two empty frame or fondations as you wish but it should be separated with full builded frame. Again, next to honey/polen frame and in the middle of the brood nest. And if there is no nectar flow you will have to expand, but feed every day with 150-200 ml of syrup because bees are emerge and one frame give you 2-3 frame of emerged bees. they need space and where to hang out. If there is non they start preparing to swarm. It take about 3-4 days from start preparing until they realize they are overcrowded. This is most important to do. That procedure will made you a beekeeper with basic experienced knowledge.

If you have two colony with the divider, take a stronger on the right side and put in a new box and hive stand, give some water/light syrup because they will lose forager. In few days they´ll be fine.
In both nucs put frame to build.

When they gathering nectar they don´t take syrup. If it´s long ago they not use syrup, remove from the hive it can be spoiled.

Wish you luck.


----------



## Dragiša-Peđa Ranković (Feb 24, 2015)

You have to level the hive if you go with empty frame.
And frame should have some guideline.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfoundationless.htm


----------



## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

Yep, I sure did read the original post.

And when I read, "I've got two nucs in a 10 frame box," it regestered as "and a ten frame box."

Apparently you are absolutely and completely immune to such errors, judging from on the rudeness of your reaction.

I expect if the respomse confuses the original poster, he/she is likely capable.of.asking a clarifying question, though In expect most recent would see the principle a figure out what is meant.

At any rate, there's no need to be belittling in your comments.


----------



## Dragiša-Peđa Ranković (Feb 24, 2015)

Can I add an empty frame in the middle of the 3 brood frames? Both colonies have just started to build comb on a new frame so I would use that one in either hive. Pros/cons with doing this? 

YES.


----------



## Dragiša-Peđa Ranković (Feb 24, 2015)

Beregondo said:


> Yep, I sure did read the original post.
> 
> And when I read, "I've got two nucs in a 10 frame box," it regestered as "and a ten frame box."
> 
> ...


I have seen a video and I haven´t seen any bees on other hive entrance.


----------



## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

Beregondo said:


> Yep, I sure did read the original post.
> 
> And when I read, "I've got two nucs in a 10 frame box," it regestered as "and a ten frame box."
> 
> ...


Sorry mam< I was not belittling anyone and I would like to understand how that was interpreted as such. It was not exclusively directed at you others failed to take note of that fact also. I even expressed that your advise was sound although be it misdirected. I apologize for not taking the time to sugar coat the statement adequately or offer more praise so as not to offend your delicate sensibility. But I was more concerned with offering Correct information to the OP. Or do you suppose it would have been more polite to have told the OP. Don't listen to them, they do not know what they are talking about.


----------

