# Easy bee-vac



## LtlWilli

I have a shop vac, and my desire is to make an easily constructed bee-vac out of itI search-engined bee-vacs, only to find that they are like cars, with either fairly easy or disgustingly intricate. What I'd like to see is THE easiest to make. They are a great tool for the beekeeper, and I have have one of my very own.


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## iddee

The saying..."You get what you pay for"... comes to mind. The easiest is to use the shop vac as it comes and just dump the dead bees in your compost pile.

If you want to keep them alive, it comes a little harder.

If you want them alive AND healthy, it comes even harder.

Here's photos of mine if you want to keep the bees alive, healthy, and easiest to manipulate once vacuumed.

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/Iddee/BEE VAC/


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## LtlWilli

Maybe I should have pefaced my opening with the fact that ,of course, I want them alive and healthy. Otherwise, I'd have a bunch of crappie bait.I guess that stressing "cheap 'would have been best left out.
Your setup looks great--standard sized boxes? Is there anything inside the vac that could bump or bruise the bees?Is there a thread you can post o your good-lookin' machine?...Oh----will yours run off a ccar battery?
Thanks, iddee.
Rick


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## KQ6AR

I like it.
Do you put frames in the bottom box, when using it?


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## iddee

The bees don't go into the vac. They are screened off in the super. The super is a standard size box. It will run off a 1200 watt inverter from a car battery. No thread made, but I can explain anything you can't see in the photos.


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## dhood

looks good, what is that yellow box on the plug? 
Daniel,


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## iddee

It's a router control, used to control the speed, "the power", of the vacuum.


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## LtlWilli

That is pretty fine, iddee. I am compressed~or impressed~repressed , dunno which...LOL
Yup, that's a dandy. I tip my hat to your creativity.


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## iddee

Not my invention, Willi, a friend named Tom Sawyer. No kin to Huck Finn.
He made it and I added a few things like the sliding bottom.


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## LtlWilli

Well, whoever gets credit deserves a big huzzah!!! ....Top of the line stuff right there. I'd offer a bow from the waist, but my wife is not big enugh to get me back upright again..LOL


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## BULLSEYE BILL

iddee said:


> He made it and I added a few things like the sliding bottom.


Like I did when I added the vac to the box for an all in one unit. Thanks Iddee for the ideas! It's the best vac yet! :thumbsup:


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## Trapper

*Bee Vac*

Iddee, what size screen are you using? Am I correct in thinking that the bees fall before they hit the screen ? Thanks Jim


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## iddee

1/8 inch screen.... The bees will mostly stop before the screen. Those that don't have slowed sufficiently to not be hurt, plus the screen is slanted to keep them from hitting it head-on.


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## AstroBee

So, when you're operating it, you modulate the vacuum with the speed control, and I assume that you use some type of reasonably tight top cover, right? What about just running the vac full speed and having a bleed valve next to the outlet to the vac so that suction can be modulated mechanically?


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## iddee

The cover is sealed plexiglass. The router control can be adjusted in smaller increments up and down, then mechanical hole covers. The router control will not give a full range of power, so mechanical hole covers are still needed. Also, when finished, all the hole covers are opened to give ventilation. There are 4 or more on each of my catch boxes.


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## Hambone

I have a few questions Iddee.

Where do you get a router control? 

What size hose is coming off the vac. And what size are you using to vac with. Anything special I need to know on the hoses?

I bought my shop vac tonight, and will be building my box in the next couple of weeks. So I know I will have a few more questions.

Thanks!


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## Hambone

> so mechanical hole covers are still needed. Also, when finished, all the hole covers are opened to give ventilation. There are 4 or more on each of my catch boxes.


Can you expand alittle on this. I see the side holes. But don't quite under the use.


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## Keith Benson

Derek said:


> I have a few questions Iddee.
> 
> Where do you get a router control?


I am not Iddee, but you can get them at harbor freight for fairly cheap.

Keith


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## iddee

I get mine at harbor freight, also.

The mechanical controls are 1 to 1 1/2 inch screen covered holes in the side of the catch box. I cover them with duct tape before starting. As the bees are vacuumed, I adjust the control down until the vac motor begins to labor. Then I turn it back up and remove one piece of tape and start down again. I continue this until the bees are entering the catch box with the force I want.

I use the hoses that came with the vac. I do have a hard plastic nozzle for getting into smaller areas.


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## NDnewbeek

*hoses*

This may seem a rudimentary question - but how do you attach the hoses to the box? Thanks


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## iddee

I cut the holes the same size as the hose, so the hose JUST won't go in. Then I ream the hole partway through, on a taper. The hose goes in part way and sticks.


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## Barry Tolson

Iddee,
I was looking at the beevac pics and like the design. It looks very easy to make and the transfer of bees to their new home looks like it would be a breeze.
It looks like a couple of the pictures show ventilation holes in the collection box, while other pictures show no such holes. With the use of the router control to adjust the shop-vac speed, do you feel that some screened holed in the side of the collection box are a good thing, or not really necessary?
Thanks
Barry
Indianapolis


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## iddee

Barry, read post 19. The ones without were one of the first ones built, and later modified. They help with ventilation on the way home, and are essential to controlling the vac power.


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## jdb1930

Where did you get the plexiglass?


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## Swobee

I'm not Idee, but have made enough things to tell you that plexiglass is available at virtually any hardware and/or lumber retail store- True Value, Ace, TheHome Depot, Lowes, along with any ma & pa hardware store in Anytown USA. Many, maybe all of these stores will cut it for you, but it's not brain surgery, so feel free to try your hand and make it fit your own needs.


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## Jorn Johanesson

When I had bees I have used a 10 cm (3.9 inch) high frame area like a super. From one upper short side to the other bottom short side was a mesh. One hole in each end for vacuum hoses. The vacuum cleaner goes under the mesh and the hose for the bees over the mesh. You place normal frames in the super. When you use the vacuum the airflow is equal in both hoses but when the bees hit the mesh the pressure is nearly zero so that the bees can enter the frames. I know this was not the best explanation but I hope you can figure it out.

Have a nice beekeeping season.


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## Ben Brewcat

I've been using an Idee-inspired vac for a few seasons of removals now and can say it's the bomb . I still haven't gotten around to a router controller, still using a slider/panel for suction control. I do use the tubing that came with the vac, though I've gotten a few more lengths so the shopvac can sit on the ground while I'm up on the ladder. I also use the blower nozzle attachment to increase suction at the intake, then the bees slow down in the tubing for a more gentle ride. Occasionally I lift the tubing straight (so the vac is it the bottom) and shake a bit to move clumps along in the tubing. I definitely err on the low-suction side: slower, but happier bees that way.


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## Zane

I've seen Iddee's vac first hand and its the real stuff. Its lighter than the one I have which has an outer box and removable inner box's. It works but is heavy. I plan on building off of Iddee's idea soon. I've used 3 different types of hose, smooth, larger and the typical vacuum hose. They all worked. Didnt notice any better. They all kill them if the suction is too high. Use a bee brush to coax them to flight and then suck them from the air.


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## standman

I have built a couple from a picture I saw on the internet. I will try to describe it, since it really is a variation of Iddee's. It consists of two pieces that look like very thin supers (about 3 1/2 inches tall). The bottom one has a piece of 1/4 inch luan inserted on a slope, front to back, for a floor. The top one is screened, and has a dado for a piece of luan to slide in above the screen. You simply sandwich a hive body or two between the bottom and top, clamp them together with a couple of ratchet straps, attach your shop vacuum to the top and hose to the bottom and vacuum up bees. When done, remove the bottom hose and close hole with tape. Remove top hose and remove top luan. This allows for ventilation during transport. Move to desired location and leave over night. Remove straps and set hive body(ies) on your choice of bottom boards. Add cover and you are done. If I can get some pics, I will post if anyone is interested.


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## steffes

_I'd like to see some pics!_


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## Ted n Ms

do a search for bushkill bee vac.


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## standman

Thanks Ted! I like to give credit where credit is due, but I couldn't remember where I saw it, and all I printed to build off of was the pic. I have not had a chance to use it yet, but I think it offers some definite advantages. Would be happy to build one for someone for a slight fee and a donation to this website.


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## dixiebooks

standman said:


> I have built a couple from a picture I saw on the internet. I will try to describe it, since it really is a variation of Iddee's. It consists of two pieces that look like very thin supers (about 3 1/2 inches tall). The bottom one has a piece of 1/4 inch luan inserted on a slope, front to back, for a floor. The top one is screened, and has a dado for a piece of luan to slide in above the screen. You simply sandwich a hive body or two between the bottom and top, clamp them together with a couple of ratchet straps, attach your shop vacuum to the top and hose to the bottom and vacuum up bees. When done, remove the bottom hose and close hole with tape. Remove top hose and remove top luan. This allows for ventilation during transport. Move to desired location and leave over night. Remove straps and set hive body(ies) on your choice of bottom boards. Add cover and you are done. If I can get some pics, I will post if anyone is interested.


I'd like to see those pics and/or plans to build one. Thanks. -james


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## ncsteeler

dixiebooks said:


> I'd like to see those pics and/or plans to build one. Thanks. -james



http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/bee-vac/


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## ncsteeler

Idee, what do you use the slide in bottom for and have you made any changes after using it several years?

Thanks Bill


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## dixiebooks

Thanks, ncsteeler. I've those pics on robos site but they are too small to make anything out and there are no plans on how to build it that I can find. -james


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## SunnyBee

Iddee's i made a bushkillbee vac and have had a learing curve with it. i saw your design and like it. i will be building me one soon. does your deep brude box have a screen boffom on it? i would seem like you would have to have a solid bottom for the vac to work. if it is the brude box you are going to put in your bee yard , do you slide in a solid bottom? i guess if you were using solid bottoms, all you would have to do is stop up the entrance to keep the suckion there. can any one help?


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## heaflaw

Could an 18 volt battery be used as the power source?


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