# Anyone have DIY plans for a uncapping tank ?



## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Beautiful as it can be, most of the material in an uncapping tank is just there (inert) doing nothing - the honey never touches it as it drips off the frame. I made this a few years ago and continue to use it. Skip down the thread to post #5 for a picture.
http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...ing-tank-unneccessary-make-an-uncapping-frame


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

There is an uncapping tank plan in the _Build-It-Yourself_ area:

http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/honey-comb-uncapping-tank/

.


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## John R C (Mar 15, 2011)

Adrian where do you do the actual uncapping?


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## pom51 (Jul 28, 2008)

I was lucky enough to find a stainless steel tank from a dairy farm that the racks just set down on the inside of tank made a stainless screen to catch capping got about 75.00 in tank work really great


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## PAHunter62 (Jan 26, 2011)

Here is one I made for around $20.00 ...

http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...bby-Beekeeper-Uncapping-Tank-for-around-20-00


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

John, I scratch off the cappings with a capping scratcher. I do this resting the frame over a large baking tray which is on the table next to the frame rack. When it is scratched I rest it in the rack.


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## Frgrasso (Dec 18, 2014)

PAHunter62 said:


> Here is one I made for around $20.00 ...
> 
> http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...bby-Beekeeper-Uncapping-Tank-for-around-20-00


What did you use the the bottom of the top tank to strain the cappings ?


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## poppy1 (Feb 1, 2013)

PAHunter62 said:


> Here is one I made for around $20.00 ...
> 
> http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...bby-Beekeeper-Uncapping-Tank-for-around-20-00


Excellent


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## PAHunter62 (Jan 26, 2011)

Frgrasso said:


> What did you use the the bottom of the top tank to strain the cappings ?


I just drilled a ton of 1/8th-1/4 inch holes in the bottom of the top tray. I put cooling racks inside the top tray to keep the cappings from plugging the holes. I never did put a honey gate or anything in the bottom tray. I have a second set of these and just lift the top tray over and onto a third tray while I dump the honey from the bottom tray through my sieve. There is nothing in the uncapping tank setup to keep all debris out of the honey. Dumping it through the sieve accomplishes that for me.

Works well and did not break the bank.


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## Frgrasso (Dec 18, 2014)

PAHunter62 said:


> I just drilled a ton of 1/8th-1/4 inch holes in the bottom of the top tray. I put cooling racks inside the top tray to keep the cappings from plugging the holes. I never did put a honey gate or anything in the bottom tray. I have a second set of these and just lift the top tray over and onto a third tray while I dump the honey from the bottom tray through my sieve. There is nothing in the uncapping tank setup to keep all debris out of the honey. Dumping it through the sieve accomplishes that for me.
> 
> Works well and did not break the bank.


It's a great idea , after really looking at the ones the bee suppliers
Sell , I think they cut the complete bottom out off the top tank
And just add a metal queen excluder for straining & the tanks 
Are food grade , also the tanks nest in each other one way and
When rotated 180 degrees they sit on top of each other , I priced 
The exact tanks online and there $30 each and shipping was $30 !!
I just don't want to spend $120+ on one when 
I can buy a lot of other beek supplies I need


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## PAHunter62 (Jan 26, 2011)

I agree that the supplier tanks seem well over-priced. I just could not justify spending that kind of money on what you way is 2 totes and a honey gate, ridiculous!. I just happened to be walking the isles at my local Sam's club when I was thinking about an uncapping tank. When I saw the bus boxes (two for under 13 bucks) I grabbed them and came up with my own design. It works nice - used it a couple years now. The top bar to rest the frames on is movable. Just a common nail down through the rail and lip of the bus box. Use the other $100+ to fill your cart with supplies you really need at Mann Lake and get free shipping!


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

A big cooler works add a board with a nail. And remove the hinges so you can get the lid out of the way.


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## dp2k (Apr 22, 2012)

I built one using a large stainless steel sink I built legs for - I use a capping scratcher & electric knife to uncap, and I scrape the cappings through the drain hole of the sink into a 5 gallon bucket with filter bag. I put the uncapped frames on a bakery tray on the side of the sink (where the honey can drip into the sink) while waiting to load into the extractor. While I would love to have one the the nice commercial setups, they're too expensive for my current needs.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Per MannLake:

Those tanks aren’t designed specifically for beekeeping. We get them from a company in Ohio that makes them for the produce industry. The strength and size will handle honey frames. A cut out of the top tub is done by us.


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## Frgrasso (Dec 18, 2014)

snl said:


> Per MannLake:
> 
> Those tanks aren’t designed specifically for beekeeping. We get them from a company in Ohio that makes them for the produce industry. The strength and size will handle honey frames. A cut out of the top tub is done by us.


After you do the cut out of the top tub , what is placed
In the open area ?


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

A perforated metal. Don't cut the entire bottom out, rather two sections that will leave about an 1.5" supporting cross brace.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

Not a big honey producer, my focus is on queens, so low volume and done on the cheap. My uncapping tank is a clean, new, select-grain deep brood box with a solid bottom screwed onto it and a queen excluder screwed onto the top of it. I waxed the inside, drilled a hole and added a gate.

I toss the large cappings masses into a restaurant strainer over a plastic bucket or barrel as I go. I'm looking for plans for a cappings spinner.


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## Frgrasso (Dec 18, 2014)

snl said:


> A perforated metal. Don't cut the entire bottom out, rather two sections that will leave about an 1.5" supporting cross brace.


I found the tubs you use , what size holes are in the perforated metal you use 
And what's the exact measurements of the size of the piece ? Thanks


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