# Greetings from Ohio...



## SolomonMan (Dec 21, 2016)

All,
Hi, From Northwest Ohio!

In the research side of things now for this endeavor....Just completed reading cover to cover Beekeeping for Dummies. 

Currently working on the Storey's Guide to Beekeeping.

Considering the Hive and the Honey Bee...just noticed its out on Google as a Public Domain book....probably buy it used as Northwest Ohios are not tropical and it is something to do on those colder days.

Looking over what to buy for my first two hives...probably kits?...considering the possibility of building future hives. Trying to keep it simple and not overspend on needless items or items you can buy as you go.

Will get two packages of bees probably this April according to the local bee supply.

Sure I will have plenty of questions as I go....

Have a Good Holiday/Merry Christmas!
Chris


----------



## whiskers (Aug 28, 2011)

hello Chris-
Bill


----------



## SolomonMan (Dec 21, 2016)

whiskers said:


> hello Chris-
> Bill


Hi Bill!


----------



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Welcome to Beesource, Chris!

My suggestion is not to buy a 'kit'. Instead, wait a bit til you form a better idea of _how_ you'd like to keep bees. Buy just what you need, but try to group purchases to get the best shipping offers.

For instance, assuming that you choose a Langstroth style hive setup, tops (lids) are easy to make, and can save you a few bucks by making your own. A 'migratory' lid is little more than a piece of plywood and (perhaps) some 1x3 pieces as stiffeners. Not _everybody_ appreciates the virtues of a migratory top, but they are certainly an option. Using a migratory top eliminates the purchase of an inner cover _and_ an outer cover.


----------



## AmericasBeekeeper (Jan 24, 2010)

Welcome Chris!


----------



## SolomonMan (Dec 21, 2016)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> Welcome to Beesource, Chris!
> 
> My suggestion is not to buy a 'kit'. Instead, wait a bit til you form a better idea of _how_ you'd like to keep bees. Buy just what you need, but try to group purchases to get the best shipping offers.
> 
> For instance, assuming that you choose a Langstroth style hive setup, tops (lids) are easy to make, and can save you a few bucks by making your own. A 'migratory' lid is little more than a piece of plywood and (perhaps) some 1x3 pieces as stiffeners. Not _everybody_ appreciates the virtues of a migratory top, but they are certainly an option. Using a migratory top eliminates the purchase of an inner cover _and_ an outer cover.


Yep...thinking the Langstroth style hive.

Still trying to understand all the pieces involved and how they are all used...thanks for the tip....I have found a couple of "kits" though that their cardboard boxes (shipping) were severely damaged and the local supply house said they would deep discount them (<50% of original cost = <$100)...Both are 10 frame hives...one frame in the one is damaged and the other box the smoker can is dented severely.....I figure I could fix the frame and probably scrap the other smoker (probably do not need 2 anyways). I guess they ordered them for a local fellow who when hives arrived damaged they called the supplier who just sent them out the new ones. I assume the shipping company picked up tab. The guy buying evidently was not interested in having 4 hives as he was just starting out.

Looking at the hives, plans, and the examples I have seen though I believe I could build them without to much effort...but the quick fix of the kit and at a discount is appealing. If they are there after the Christmas Season probably going to pick them up...probably get the wife to buy them for me for my BDay....LOL...Its not a chain store so I do not think they are going anywhere quick...seen them for the past few months.

Thanks
Chris


----------



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Buy the _discounted_/damaged kit.  

You can model the additional boxes that you are proposing to build on the purchased boxes in the kit. In particular, pay attention to "bee space" between the frames in stacked boxes. 

There is an issue with different manufacturers placing [most of] the bee space between frames in boxes in different locations (mostly top or mostly bottom). So by modeling your built boxes on the purchased ones, you can eliminate that issue.

_Bee space_ is relevant because bees tend to plug with propolis spaces _smaller_ than bee space, and build comb in spaces _larger_ than bee space. _Neither_ of those possibilities is desirable between boxes, beekeepers prefer to have _nothing_ there! Bee space between boxes is controlled by the depth of the frame rest rabbet at the top of each box.

One thread discussing this issue: http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?234422-Frame-bee-space-between-supers


----------



## SolomonMan (Dec 21, 2016)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> Buy the _discounted_/damaged kit.
> 
> You can model the additional boxes that you are proposing to build on the purchased boxes in the kit. In particular, pay attention to "bee space" between the frames in stacked boxes.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the thread...I gave it a read...and also the co thread put out by Fusion Power. 

I actually had concern about propolis if I built my own boxes... read about propolis and spaces in the Dummies book...Its mentioned very briefly.

It will be interesting to see what the kit(s) measure out at. 

Thanks for the help,
Chris


----------



## QUIKSVT (Apr 6, 2016)

You could always buy local too. There is an Amish man south of you between Kenton and Mt. Victory that builds woodenware and sells nucs and prices & quality are great. There is Ohio Bee Box a little further away north of Mansfield too. Great stuff too, but he did raise his prices. I've been to both and have purchased from both. You should make a drive and see what they put into it. PM me if you want the address'?
Josh


----------

