# Swarm Traps



## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

I plan to up my odds at catching swarms this spring with swarm traps. Having never used swarm traps in the past, I tried to learn as much as possible on the net before starting or purchasing/making.

I have specific questions about trap placement. So far, I've read that traps should be placed 5 to 12 feet from the ground. From pictures on beesource (http://www.beesource.com/plans/scf/2.htm) I figure the Lusbys in Tucson orient their flower pot shaped traps with the flat top up and the hole on bottom. This makes sense to me because the bees draw comb on the bottom of the top. The only online pictures I can find of these traps mounted orients them sideways with the top against the tree. This way the bees will draw comb on the side of the trap making it difficult to remove comb. What is the best way?

I plan to use lures. Who has the best lures? I've noticed some differences in what's available.

Has anyone used 5 frame nucs with frames that have starter strips in them? I'm thinking about mounting a vertical plank on the side of the nuc to make it easier to screw them to a tree with the cordless drill. I imagine the nucs should be painted a color to help them blend in with the tree to prevent vandalization. Nucs with frames would make hiving the swarm much easier.

I'm planning on trying some of the flower pot shaped traps and a few homemade nucs this spring.

Any other tips or advice? Thanks.


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## Maine_Beekeeper (Mar 19, 2006)

*a couple of swarm traps*

Here are a couple of swarm traps I've "caught" swarms in in my own yard. 

A large paperboard plant pot with a commercially bought swarm lure inside:
IMG]http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j37/Maine_Beekeeper/June16-172007053.jpg[/IMG]









A cardboard box with an old super comb inside and lemongrass oil on a cottonball in the bottom:









Use what you have/can find - just keep an eye on the traps or you'll end up with comb like the photos you posted. I check my traps daily and move the bees into standard equipment in the late afternoon/evening on the day they move in.


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## BjornBee (Feb 7, 2003)

A very good source on swarming and swarm trap usage, is a book from Root Publications. It costs $5.00 and that includes shipping. It is well worth the money.

You can call 1-800-289-7668 to order. Item # X56 entitled "swarming".


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

My thoughts:

Catch swarms ONLY in boxes with standard frames, unless you are broke. 

Five frame nucs work fine. Cardboard nucs boxes cost $8.00?
Search for old abandoned bee supers - free/cheap. Plywood bottom and tops. European wine crates fit medium frames almost exactly. I fill them with my funky old extracting frames.

Use an old comb or two laced with lemongrass oil. Fill out box with frames of foundation. 

I draw out deep combs for honey frames one year and use them with a few black combs for baits the next year.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I've used old nuc boxes, old deep boxes, wax coated cardboard nucs, and plastic "cardboard" nucs. All with medium frames (which is what I use for brood). They all worked fine. The wax coated cardboard didn't hold up as well but didn't cost much.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Michael Bush said:


> plastic "cardboard" nucs.


What is a plastic "cardboard" nuc, versus a waxed cardboard nuc?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

They are made of "plasticor" or corrugated plastic. MDA makes them in both plain cardboard and "plasticor". Dadant used to sell the cardboard MDA splitters that were wax coated. I've had all of them but have only used the plain cardboard for transporting nucs, not leaving in the weather. The plastic ones hold up better in the rain.


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