# what to sit hive on besides the ground?



## yoyo (Jun 13, 2007)

I know this is really basic, but what do you guys sit the hives on besides the ground. What about clearance under the hive for ventilation? Do you use something different on a IPM bottom board compared to the solid board?


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## indypartridge (Nov 18, 2004)

Concrete blocks.


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## Budster (Mar 24, 2006)

Put me down for concrete blocks as well. Not real pretty, but effective. I've seen pictures of some real nice stands built from 4x4's and the like, and plan on doing the same when I get a round "tuit". Currently, I have a square "tuit" and a rectangle "tuit", just cant seem to get ahold of a round one, they must be rare... ;-)


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## honeyman46408 (Feb 14, 2003)

I use dumpster materials, pallets. 4x4s an old tire and wheel will do,scrap carpet and dry wall will keep the weeds down soooooo


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## Erik T (May 22, 2007)

You really should get the hive up off the ground. On the ground, the wood absorbs mosture and makes for a damp hive.

I don't like concrete block stands because they could transmit vibration into the hive.

I recently built a stand out of stained cypress that was loosly based off the plans on Dave Cushman's English website:

http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/natstand.html

These have to be modified to work with a langstroth hive, e.g. rectangular shape. I tried to keep the bottom spreader peices high enough to allow the legs to be placed in some cans of oil for ant control.

Due to the use of an Rossman Apiaries alighting board/hive stand and a IPM'd bottom board, my stand ended up a bit too tall.

If I make another one, I'd shorten it a bit so that the top of the bottom board rails end up about 18" above the ground. I might also consider some adjustable feet for it to make leveling the hive a bit easier.


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## nsmith1957 (Sep 7, 2006)

I use concrete blocks also.


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## shawnwri (Jul 31, 2006)

pallets sitting on an old scrap of landscape fabric. Nice height for working


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## Hillside (Jul 12, 2004)

I was lucky enough to get a big pile of 8 inch landscape timbers - for free. Two parallel timbers, cut in lengths to hold two hives. Very sturdy, very nice height. They are treated, but the bees don't acutally come in contact with the timbers and I've never had any problems.


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## berkshire bee (Jan 28, 2007)

I use pretty much whatever is handy from concrete blocks to pieces of landscape timber. I kinda like the look of a small beeyard with all different color hives on a variety of makeshift stands.


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## peggjam (Mar 4, 2005)

Pallets, concrete blocks, empty hive bodies, old hay wagons, and my favorite, 2x6's stood on edge with pieces cut to hold them together. I can get alot of hives on an 8 footer.


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## Hobie (Jun 1, 2006)

Concrete block with 2x6's laid across to give me a ledge to put things on. Or bang my shins on, depends on how I feel that day.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Two landscape timbers = 3 hives


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## okb (Apr 16, 2007)

Agree with Ross, however I and he may also, use 4 blocks, 2- 8' landscape timbers. 3-hives 8" off the ground. Not as far to bend when working with them either. And easier to move. Good for SBB.


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## mintong (Apr 3, 2004)

A 12' 2"x12" board with two 18" 3/8ths sections cut off, remainder is cut in half. Use metal connectors to connect after painting. Result is a very stable platfom for two hives. I tried the nice stand (18" high) routine, but high winds (65 mph) kept knocking hive over. No moisture problems due to living in semi-arid area, just have to repaint hive and stands after severe hailstorms.


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## bjerm2 (Jun 9, 2004)

I use 10" conc blocks, on top of that I have 4x4 posts framed in on 2x4. This keeps the hives up about 18 inches and if a racoon, or skunk tries to scratch at the hive the will be exposing their under parts where the hair is thinner and the bees can really get to them. I don't have mich problems from skunks since I have done this.
Dan


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## WVbeekeeper (Jun 4, 2007)

any one other than me use the i-beams from under mobile homes?


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## AstroBee (Jan 3, 2003)

Erik T said:


> I don't like concrete block stands because they could transmit vibration into the hive.


I interpret Dave's comment about vibration the following way: if you have multiple hives supported on a common set of rails (with the rails supported by cinder blocks) then there's stronger coupling of vibrations when working adjacent hives on the same set of rails. I use the "rail" system and have never had a problem. However, I suspect that it would definitely be more of an issue in AHB territory. Cinder blocks used to support single hives would have more transmissibility of vibration than wood, but we're talking very minor effects here.


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## okb (Apr 16, 2007)

WVbeekeeper said:


> any one other than me use the i-beams from under mobile homes?


I would but there rather heavy to carry into a bee yard and besides the house needs them more than the hives. I think the other half might draw the line there.


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## Jeffzhear (Dec 2, 2006)

I use pallets...Lowes saves the small ones for me. Before they start to break-down, I replace them. The price is right -- nothing.


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## flathead (Nov 1, 2006)

*blocks and timbers*

Local block manufacturer allows us to pick out of the broken pile out back and he gets some honey.

On 16 foot runners we get 4 hives with room between to set boxes while we work them.

http://zacharyfarmsllc.com/hivestands.htm

That gives you three spaces left to make quick splits or add a swarm when they come along.


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## Ron Young (Aug 16, 2006)

*My set up*

Here is a link to a photo of my set-up. Deck blocks and 2 X 6 lumber. 
http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l98/NCBeginner/Bees At Home/?action=view&current=Picture017.jpg


I also have bordering landscape blocks around the edge with plastic on the ground and white marble rock under the hives.


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## dragonfly (Jun 18, 2002)

I built a steel frame a few years ago that is supported by two 4x4's post in concrete. If you wan't, I can post a pic. The hives are about 20 inches off the ground or so. Easy to keep ants out by putting tanglefoot or vaseline on the two legs.


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## onelove (Jun 24, 2005)

pallet with lag bolts in bottom. add grease to lag bolts for ant barrier.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

http://www.bushfarms.com/images/Stand1.jpg
http://www.bushfarms.com/images/Stand2.jpg

"Hive Stand
My intent is to have a stand I can easily level just once for 14 hives, and be able to push them all together for the winter for warmth. The long runners are 16" apart with the front set so if the backs are in the center against each other the front edge of the hive is at the front edge of the two by four. And the back one is so that if the front is even with the front of the ends then the back is still on the two by four in the back."

http://www.bushfarms.com/beesmisc.htm


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## Budster (Mar 24, 2006)

Picture Mr Haney from "Hooterville" or Greenacres having a bee yard. Thats what mine looks like. I know, I need to do better!


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## mike haney (Feb 9, 2007)

HEYYYYYYYYYYY! i resemble that remark!!


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## Cyndi (Apr 26, 2005)

You know you're a beekeeper if....

for Mother's Day, you have your husband build you this elaborate custom hive stand, that is 4 feet off the ground, where the poles are set in concrete - never to be blown away, knocked over, etc. It can hold 6 hives very nicely. It's so detailed that I have an area to place my frames and boxes, instead of on the ground. IF, next year I get several supers on each hive, I have concrete blockes imbedded into the ground that I can stand on to reach the top. To top it off, I planted a Jasmine bush on each end of it...It's so pretty...that way the girls will easily know their way back home,  This is in lieu of the usual dinner and having the day off. and....No more windchimes and garden trinkets for me


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>4 feet off the ground

Bears?


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## Cyndi (Apr 26, 2005)

Michael Bush said:


> >4 feet off the ground
> 
> Bears?


bears, humans, raccoons, oppossums, clumsy rottweilers, children,  I live in the Western NC mountains. I know 4-feet is probably over-kill, it's probaby close to more like 3-1/2 feet, but it sure does work great for me. It's easier than bending down/over - all the time. It's just a really nice workstation.

OOps..I'm editing this...

Confession:

I'm not really good at measuring things or calculating math without a tape measurer or calculator..yea, I know So, I went out and actually measured..I'm way off...it's more like 2-1/2 feet..oh well. If you include the hives, it's 4-feet.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

*It's got to bee mobile*

Small Trailers:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t7/odfrank/IMG_0451.jpg

Larger Trailer:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t7/odfrank/IMG_0345.jpg

Dumpster flatbed:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t7/odfrank/beebed8.jpg


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## twlankford (Sep 3, 2003)

I use two 8ft 4x4s across concrete blocks. I set one hive on each end. This elevates the hives about a foot off the ground. This gives plenty of room for ventilation and plenty of room to work around both hives. The middle also gives you somewhere to sit supers or brood boxes when you open and/or inspect the hive. There is room to set another hive in the middle if you want, but for me, this puts 3 hives too close together.


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## Dave W (Aug 3, 2002)

Hives in a straight line encourages drifting and the "close quarters" may help to spread disease and pest.

Each of my hives set on its own stand. The stand has 4 legs which set in oil-filled cans (no ants). The raised stand allow access to sticky board, provides ample ventilation, gives the V-mite a place to go, put hives at a convenient working height and keep the hive drier.


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## amandrea (Nov 10, 2004)

I"m using plastic milk crates. Problem, can't keep ants from crawling up, ant spikes at cornors don't seem to help.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

My landscape timbers are flat on the ground, no blocks. Blocks are too heavy to carry around when you move hives. I find absolutely no problem with hives in a straight line. I usually leave one hive width between mine, but that's for convenience when working them, the bees don't care.


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## fhafer (Mar 27, 2005)

I use an eight foot 2X8 for the back rail, an eight foot 2X6 for the front rail, and twelve inch 2X6's between the rails. It looks like a ladder. I place these on concrete blocks. The wider rear rail gives the hive a slight forward tilt that helps shed water off the landing board. I can put four hives or six nucs on each stand. I don't notice any drifting problems but my boxes are all different colors...love that Home Depot and Lowes "oops paint".


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Dave W said:


> Hives in a straight line encourages drifting and the "close quarters" may help to spread disease and pest.
> 
> Tell that to the zoning officer who gives you 24 hours to move your 50 hives because the laws only permit two.


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## okb (Apr 16, 2007)

odfrank said:


> Dave W said:
> 
> 
> > Hives in a straight line encourages drifting and the "close quarters" may help to spread disease and pest.
> ...


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

2 1/2 feet and including the hives its four feet? Mine get to six or seven feet tall sometimes and they are only 3 1/2 INCHES off the ground. That top super is a killer.


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## notaclue (Jun 30, 2005)

Cinder Blocks two high. If we have wind advisories I have drilled holes into the sides for eyebolts and stake them down. Only had to do it once and then removed eye bolts so I would stop snagging myself.


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