# Votive Wicks



## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

It looks like your wick is too short which reduces the heat and thus the melt pool. Should be 1/4 inch minimum. A pointy wick means it is too long and should be trimmed. 

Pillars tend to want to tunnel if during the first burn, the candle melt pool is not allowed to the edge of the candle. 

Make sure beeswax used is always clean. Any debris will clog the wick.


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## rx2life (Oct 10, 2015)

The wick was half an inch when it was lit, beeswax was clean and was in pellet form. After the 2 hour burn the melt pool was an inch wide and not expanding just tunneling.


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

Votives do not usually keep their shape and are supposed to be burned in a glass votive container (safety). I suppose there is more heat that way also. 

BTW, I meant pointy flame and not pointy wick. For some reason, I try to edit my posts at times and no longer can do that. :scratch:

The picture helps and it looks like the wick is short and so is the flame. I am not familiar with the pellets and wonder about that.

Did you add anything to the melted beeswax?


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## rx2life (Oct 10, 2015)

Bee Bliss,
I didn't add anything to the wax. I see what you talking about with wick length, I don't know how it ended up that short because It started as a half inch wick. There are not any holes or air bubbles on the bottom that might have caused a drop in the wax pool down the wick. The beeswax I'm using are the Beeswax Pastilles from Columbus foods. I own a bath and body shop and order this in bulk because I use beeswax in so many products. I've spoke with the company to make sure that during the pastilles process the composition of the wax is unchanged or chemically altered. They have assured me it isn't. I believe I read somewhere that tunneling can be caused like this if the wax composition is to "soft". I could be wrong and have my information mixed up. I'm frustrated and want this to work dang it 

*edit* I don't know if it's worth mentioning, but this wick was unprimed except for a tiny bit of wax I put on the tip.


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

I read back on some old threads and someone commented that a taper they made with the BW pastilles dripped a lot while one made with regular beeswax did not. Size of candle and wick was the same.

Many who make candles find they sometimes need to test, test, test to get candles that work right. Sometimes it is the wick size or length and sometimes it is a different batch of beeswax.

Be careful of increasing the size of the wick. I have made some candles using different thicknesses of wick. They burn hot and fast. They are struggling to make a melt pool and can't keep up. Those will burn the wick and smoke. Whatever wick size is used, if the wick is too long, the flame will be pointy. It should be nicely rounded at the top. 

You have a wick that is struggling because it is too short. You would see that if you pour just a little of the melt pool off that the flame will respond by growing taller (bigger) and brighter. 

Was the wick primed? Did you extinguish the wick even once and relight it right away without having extinguished it by submerging it in the wax pool? A wick will burn down when the flame is just blown out. You can see the red glow and see the smoke and that is what is happening. The wick is damaged then. To prevent that, the wick must be pushed into the wax pool and immediately pulled back into position. Try using a bent paper clip. It really does make a difference.

Note: I see your edit now on priming.


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

Have the 4 votive flat-top flex mold and love it. You can have extra wick below the mold that keeps rewicking the mold as you draw out the candle each time. You probably know this, but I will mention things for those that can use the tips.

I do not prime the wick before pouring the beeswax into the molds. The wax absorbs into the wick that is in the interior of the candle. What I do to "prime" the wick is later on when I am finishing candles using a flat, shallow pan, is I will tip the exposed wick in melted wax. 

Unprimed wicks can be a problem when first lit because the cotton wick "burns up" and there is little to no melt pool. A primed wick is protected from doing this.


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## rx2life (Oct 10, 2015)

That's what I did as well Bee Bliss. I wanted to use local wax for candle making but couldn't find anyone selling in my local bee group. I see some for sale in the forums here and will inquire. I'm no candle maker but given that I followed the above and the wick was 1/2 inch when it started, I don't know why it became so short other than the wax I'm using isn't "hard" enough? I appreciate your time and advice that's been in this post. :thumbsup:


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

In response to further questions...

It is not uncommon for candle makers to test, test, test their candles to make sure they match wicks to the current batch of wax they are using. You don't say if you have used the pellets with the new candles like you did with your first votives. Some people also refilter beeswax they purchase. If your wick was clogged, you would see evidence of that though I am sure. My wicks tend to get longer as they burn, not shorter.

Before you lay out a lot more money for wicks and/or beeswax, you may be interested in checking out smaller samples of beeswax (instead of the pellets). 

I don't make many 3 inch pillars, but remember that I tried a 60 ply wick for one for someone else. 

What temps. do you pour at?

Year ago I bought a lot of beeswax from a beekeeper online. It was very nice, but I noticed recently that his wax got a bit more expensive.

My thoughts are for you to buy a few pounds from someone and trial that. I buy my supplies from Mann Lake, Betterbee, Glory Bee. Haven't had to buy any beeswax for years.


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## zaxbeeswax (Jul 31, 2014)

I received a private message to comment on this. First off...thanks for the message - Im always willing to help everyone out. A few things

First - The Votives should be burned in a votive Holder

Second - I use 3/0 Wicking for my full size Votives which seams to be Ideal. (I must share as I discovered this through some beekeepers in Great Britain....without their help I would have been screwed)

Third - BUY LOCAL!!!! BUY FROM PRIVATE BEE KEEPERS! The wax is soooo much better and definitely worth the price difference. Its smells better, is better quality, and you know its not Japanese crap-o-la. You may have to filter it a little.

Fourth - Most of the suggested wick sized on betterbee etc are incorrect. If your having problems with your wick sizes feel free to hit me up for the correct sizes to use. Pillars etc.

Have fun!! 

Zach


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

John,

It is clear to me that when you use the BW pastilles you need a different size wick than if you would use the beeswax that others sell. However, my opinion is do not use the pastilles for candles. Get some regular beeswax. You may have to refilter. Do the pastilles smell like beeswax/honey?

You did not state the temperatures you pour at. Very high temperatures for a long period of time can harden beeswax and make it "brittle" and probably affect the candle burn. It is possible that pastilles are like that. 

I think your problem is mostly the wax (pastilles) you were using. So, I suggested trying different wax first. The wick exposed on your finished candles needs to have beeswax soaked in and not just a dab at the top.

Not all wicks are created equal................where did you get your wicks from? Is it specifically for beeswax?

Just so you know, I use 4/0 wicking for birthday candles which are very slim candles.  So, your 2/0 wick will decrease in thickness as you increase that number. BTW, I get a 30 minute burn time on a birthday candle! lol

Get regular beeswax and then fine tune your wick.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Zack, what do you use for wick for a 3" BW pillar? Thanks.


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## rx2life (Oct 10, 2015)

Zach, Thanks for the info!

Bee Bliss,

I pour the wax at 155-160 and they do smell like beeswax.

The wicks I bought were from Mann Lake and the size they suggested. Do you have a wick manufacturer you like best for SB?

Thanks for the information and time guys


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## zaxbeeswax (Jul 31, 2014)

John?

3X3 Standard Pillar size? I use a #6 Square braided.


Also I order my wicking from candlewic.com


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## Bob J (Feb 25, 2013)

Bee Bliss said:


> Just so you know, I use 4/0 wicking for birthday candles which are very slim candles.  So, your 2/0 wick will decrease in thickness as you increase that number. BTW, I get a 30 minute burn time on a birthday candle! lol


Never occurred to me to make birthday candles..... Such a cool idea! 

Assume that they are dipped?


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

Yes, they are dipped.


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## rx2life (Oct 10, 2015)

*Update*

I bought some local wax and this made a pretty big difference. I'm still going to have to go up a size from what Mann Lake suggested but the local wax made a huge difference. So, I believe you could use the pastilles, you would just have to go up about 4 sizes. This might change with the SB wick that I'm going to purchase from Atkins & Pearce from the Mann Lake SB wicking. I appreciate all of the information that you all were willing to share!


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## jmgi (Jan 15, 2009)

zaxbeeswax said:


> I received a private message to comment on this. First off...thanks for the message - Im always willing to help everyone out. A few things
> 
> First - The Votives should be burned in a votive Holder
> 
> ...


I use 2/0 square braided cotton for 2" tall votive's. Using 3/0 seems a little small to me, too small of a flame and tunneling and eventual drowning out. I actually think using a 1/0 (larger than 2/0) would be better than a 2/0, just a little shorter overall burn time with the larger wick.


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