# A look at the inside of the new hives



## darrellva (Feb 2, 2011)




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## darrellva (Feb 2, 2011)




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## yamahawg (May 19, 2010)

I'd say that's a major score! :thumbsup: That's some survivor bees right there!


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## vegasvalet (Jan 10, 2011)

So what's the story on the hive? How long has it been since anyone has opened it?


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## darrellva (Feb 2, 2011)

Well the guy told Shrek that he had not fouled with bees in 15 years and that there was bees in the hives that was set up but he had never messed with them. They way he talked they had been bees in them for the past 15 years but I dont know either way it has been a long time sense he been in them. The hives are falling apart as you can see duct tape there was alot more on them. each hive had 4 or 5 different rot out places that the bees was using for entrances as well as the front. I don't know rather it looks like there is alot of bees in these hives or if there is few bees cause I am new but to me it looks like there is several. The one hive has a deep and a shallow on it both was full of bees and a mess of comb. The other hive has a deep and two shallows and all of them was full of bees and a mess of comb. I don't know if we got a good deal or not but I am happy with what we spent on two hives $100 for both. DId we get hurt on this deal?


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## honeyshack (Jan 6, 2008)

We bought some hives which were not as many years neglected, but simillar in pulling top bars off frames. One tip i learned was to crack the two supers and separate. It seemed to help in getting frames from the upper box out. Another thing i also did was take a hammer out with me. When i separated the boxes, some frames were stubborn. So a few knocks from the hammer from the bottom helped. Some might think oh my the poor bees, but they are tougher than they look. They will survive a few hard knocks...in more ways than one lol.

Best of luck on this new adventure!

PS, don't pry from the center. Work the outside frame first. (risk of damaging the queen)


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## S&H (Feb 25, 2010)

If the equipment is falling apart that bad, maybe just leave it intact for now.
Consider putting newer hive bodies on top.
Once the queen has moved up, slip in an excluder.
Remove the old boxes in the fall.


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## PerryBee (Dec 3, 2007)

I think I would be inclined to get myself a couple of deep supers and just set them on top of the existing hives. Let them work their way up during the summer and deal with the mess (rotten boxes and comb) after they are empty. No chance of losing a queen that way and they (queens) may well be a keepers given that the colonies have survived all that time without handling.
Good score! :thumbsup:

(Sorry, I see S&H beat me to the punch with the same advice)


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## KQ6AR (May 13, 2008)

It might be easier to get the bees to move up into you're new boxes. 
If you can get one brood frame out, & put it in the middle of the new box. Fill the rest of the box with new frames. Then put the new box on top of the old one. 

Let them start raising brood in the new box, then remove the old one. Just in case things fall apart when you are prying, & banging.


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## darrellva (Feb 2, 2011)

two different local beekeepers told me sense I can get the supers loose from one another to take the supers off and put the new brood box above the first box and then put the supers above new body box. Said they would travel it more sense there is honey in the supers they are feeding on. What do you all think should I put the new body in the middle or on top? They said once the queen started laying in the new body to put excluders on the bottom of the new body and on top of the new body leave for a week and then go back and make sure she has laid more in the new body if so I know I have her caught in the new body. 

Will this work??


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## S&H (Feb 25, 2010)

If the top boxes contain only stores, no brood, then that will work better.
Several inches of honey can act as a barrier, preventing the brood nest from moving up.

Use drawn comb in the box being added, if you have it, for better success.
If using foundation you may want to delay until better weather arrives.
If the hive is gaining weight they should draw it quickly.
Otherwise consider feeding to get the frames drawn.


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## S&H (Feb 25, 2010)

I've never tried it, but you can also try drumming the bees up:

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php?topic=2350.0


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## Velbert (Mar 19, 2006)

putting your new brood under the supers will work but they will not build comb until the conditions are right lots of bees and a necture flow is on or you do some feeding 

I would not put the excluders on just let the queen lay in there when she wants (unless you are trying to work out the old brood box and are replaceing it with the new one) then the excluder option is good to go

Then let her lay in the new box with the excluders on for about 3 weeks (and you may need to add another brood on top of the first new box so you dont crowd her) then take the old brood off.

looking at your first post i see wax moth cocoons, what I see is evidence of where a colonie die out and what you have is a swarm went in a set up house keeping.

if you look close


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Lots of signs of substantial wax moth damage. The combs could be completely crossed inside. Best bet is just to stack new boxes on top and let the queen move up. If you can't trap her up later you will have to do a drum up, or BeeGo down.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

looks like a foundationless horror story!

mike


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