# Assembling Mannlake hive bodies - questions



## bee keeper chef (Nov 1, 2015)

If your going to paint don't sort, paint covers bad and ugly use a good glue and assemble as soon as you can, wood will start to warp. I clamp mine up so the joints are pulled tight and use 18 gage 1 1/2 inch staples make sure the are square let the glue dry good to go. All wood cracks, warps, split, and shrinks the glue and nails did not make it split. Have fun


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## frogpondwarrior (Aug 2, 2016)

Put together soon or wood will warp and may swell with moisture. 
I never sort as paint hides a lot.
I drill my finger joints and use 1 3/4 or 2 inch 8 wire Robertson screws with titebond II or III. Didn't line finish product with my nailer.
May or may not use clamps....depends on box.


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## Fivej (Apr 4, 2016)

Good advice from earlier guys. The wood will eventually split no matter what you do, but glue will hold it together longer. You could do pilot holes before you nail or screw, but the work isn't worth it. Some will split anyway. If they split while assembling, caulk after you prime, then paint. To get them square as possible, I use a 12" speed square while assembling. You will never achieve perfection. "Close enough" is the mantra for this job. Before I paint, I take a hand planer to any high spots. Sounds like a good winter project. Have fun, J


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## JTGaraas (Jun 7, 2014)

Screws with Titebond III, fast and effective.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

I assembled mine while the wood is still a bit wet. Over this hot summer they wrap a
little. So don't wait for the wood to dry out too much because they do change shape.
I use dry wall screws with pilot holes drilled in before assembling them. Without the pilot
holes they will split easily if off line. For 35 boxes it is worth it to give it some time. With the
dry wall screws you don't need to use TB glue.


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## Eikel (Mar 12, 2014)

> Doesnt finger joints align square if I just use a tie down strap around to tighten ?


 The joints help with alignment but don't guarantee it, nor will tie down straps pull everything in tight. Clamps will exert the max pressure at specific points and measuring diagonally across the top corners ensures square, ie if the diagonal corner to corner measurement is the same, the box (rectangle) has to be square. However, because wood can twist or the joints be off slightly, the box can still be square but not sit level; different problem, more involved solution.


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## Greeny (Jun 27, 2016)

DaisyNJ said:


> 2. I see these elaborate jigs and techniques to assembles boxes. Doesnt finger joints align square if I just use a tie down strap around to tighten ?


I have a cheap welding table from Harbor Freight, about $60. It has edges on two sides of the table which I use as a guide for squaring up the boxes. I glue the joints, assemble the box and shove it into the raised table sides to square it up. Staple that corner, rotate and do another. Quick, easy, and effective.


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## JRG13 (May 11, 2012)

keep it stacked or strapped to maintain straightness if you don't assemble now. Use a square for the first box, then stack the rest on top of it as you assemble to check how straight they are but they should come out fairly straight once you put them together.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

Thanks everyone. I like that square corner idea, will see if I can find that HF table or a cheap solution. 

Any creative solutions for cheap branding of the boxes ?


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## DavidZ (Apr 9, 2016)

slap them together now or you will be sorry.

They will warp and twist and then not go together easy.
you will be kicking yourself in the butt this winter spring for not
assembling now. been there, and you should get a contractor square to keep things even.

make a simple brand and have one custom made, about $60 for mine, I turn the propane
grill on low and set it inside and brand the inside of every board, pain in the a.. 
but worth it, also brand the top bars of your frames. I spray paint my logo and license number on the outside of my hives
gotta do what you gotta do to dissuade the thieves from grabbing your hives.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

DavidZ said:


> slap them together now or you will be sorry.
> 
> They will warp and twist and then not go together easy.
> you will be kicking yourself in the butt this winter spring for not
> ...


Appreciate advice. Any recommended source for the branding ?


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## DavidZ (Apr 9, 2016)

you will have to search out a local blacksmith imo.
that's what I did, took a week and he made up a branding iron with my logo.
or find a premade branding iron you think suits your idea's
search for and advertise for a blacksmith on craigslist under the farm section, bet you get a bunch of responses.
check out their work before committing, ie welds to bar, there are some really crappy smith's out there just out for a buck or 3.
or find a premade branding iron you think suits your idea's

when using it don't get scared by the huge flames that burst as you brand the wood, can be a bit of a hair raiser if you are not ready for the flames to flare up.


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## Sour Kraut (Jun 17, 2012)

DaisyNJ said:


> Couple of questions
> 
> 2. I see these elaborate jigs and techniques to assembles boxes. Doesnt finger joints align square if I just use a tie down strap around to tighten ?
> 
> ...


Here's my advice, which is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it:

VERY carefully, cut a piece of plywood to the EXACT inner dimensions of your hive body / super.

Make sure the corners are absolutely square.

Then screw a couple pieces of 2x4 to it and place on your work surface

Assemble the hive body or super around it...the 2x4 pieces keep it off the surface which makes it a bit easier.

I bought a drill / countersink @ Home Depot, and use that on all the nail holes (before starting of course)....yes it takes a bit of time but its worth it.

Then I use 2" screws, those brass / bronze colored ones that won't rust out. Yes, they cost a LOT more than nails, but again, its worth it.

I don't glue because I'm the messiest glue-er in the world.....and if those screws won't hold it, glue isn't going to help.

Start in the middle of the box and work around it, alternately putting in screws to either side of the center.

Be VERY careful on the top end screws because you can split the narrow wood where the frame rest is, very easily

It helps to have TWO cordless screwdrivers, one to drill-counter-sink, one to drive the screws, plus a rapid charger and an extra battery if you plan to do a lot of boxes.

It takes about twice as long as nailing, but it's square, tight, and looks rather professional when done.


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

Gary L. Glaenzer said:


> Here's my advice, *which is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it*:
> ......


I want my money back . Just kidding. Thanks for taking time and describing. Appreciate it and looking at the volume, I may invest in making the inner square thing as you described.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

My hives are not very good and not prefab cut. My one tip is that I use the top of the table saw for squaring when assembling. I set the fence far enough that the hive body will fit on the table saw and put one end against the fence and then put one edge against the edge of the table saw. I am just using brads (lots of them) and I will put a couple in and then use a hammer to make sure all corners are touching the table of the table saw at the same time and then I just go to town putting a million brads in (no glue) If after putting all the brads in the box is not square with the table, I bang a corner of the box on the ground till it is. 
I have no ideal how long my boxes will last. They are three years old now (stored out side) and have had bees in them for going on two years. I would use screws and glue if I was a migratory bee keeper but my hives don't get moved as units and so far so good.
Good luck
gww

Ps I got the table saw tip from someone on this site.


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

From reading this I'm getting that the manufacturers use wet wood fresh from the mill that's not kiln dried?


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

aunt betty
Or it could be they use dry wood that swells in the wether. I have never bought a hive body yet but seen on a differrent thread that the boards would warp if you let them sit for any time before assembling. I am not a wood expert yet but my wood is green that I just air dry and I get a lot of waste from it doing funny things based on where I use it and when.
It would be a nice thing to know of what they use for the hives this thread is about.
Cheers
gww


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## bee keeper chef (Nov 1, 2015)

aunt betty said:


> From reading this I'm getting that the manufacturers use wet wood fresh from the mill that's not kiln dried?


the wood they use has been kiln dried but all wood reabsorbs moisture it will shrink and expand through different times of the year If you have ever used lumber mill rough cut you would see what undried wood it is heavy and very wet


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## DaisyNJ (Aug 3, 2015)

gww said:


> aunt betty
> Or it could be they use dry wood that swells in the wether. I have never bought a hive body yet but seen on a differrent thread that the boards would warp if you let them sit for any time before assembling. I am not a wood expert yet but my wood is green that I just air dry and I get a lot of waste from it doing funny things based on where I use it and when.
> *It would be a nice thing to know of what they use for the hives this thread is about.
> *Cheers
> gww


The order I received is from MannLake. They are definitely dried and light. I expect wet wood to be LOT heavier. I heard ML uses pine.


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## bee keeper chef (Nov 1, 2015)

It is definitely pine


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

Used to drive 100 pounds of nails in an 8-hour day back when I was a young framing carpenter. This is a very interesting thread. Tell me more about this "wood" stuff.


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