# Have I covered all of the basics? What am I missing?



## briveigh (Nov 16, 2015)

I know there will other items that I will need once I get started. I am wanting to set up two hive, and have what I think I need listed. The prices are just for my purposes, and are from Miller Bee Supply which is an hour away, so I don't have to worry about shipping. Brushy Mtn is a little closer, but Miller had better prices. Haven't decided on what feeder I want, so that price isn't included. I hope this is the right forum for this.

$10.95 Cypress Base (2) (21.90)
$12.90 Screened bottom board (2) (25.80)
$9.75 Medium Budget Super (4) ($39)
$1.60 Medium Frames (40) ($60)
$38 50ct Wax Foundation
$8.95 Shallow Budget Super (4) $35.80)
$1.60 Shallow Frames (40) ($60)
$30 50ct Wax Foundation (1)
$.90 Entrance Reducer (2) ($1.80)
$9.20 Inner Cover (2) ($18.40)
$4.20 Queen Excluder (2) ($8.40)
$33.95 4x10 Smoker
$59 Half Jacket
$14.95 Goatskin Gloves
$4.65 Bee Brush
$12.75 Hive Tool
$17.90 Telescoping top (2) (35.80)
Feeder
$500.20+ 2feeder


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

Welcome to the forum! Capping scratcher? I don't see bees listed. Are you going to be getting a package or nuc and do you have them ordered yet? Do you have a nearby mentor? Are the frames wedge top or grooved? Are you going to wire the foundation in or use the foundation as starter strips? These are 10 frame boxes? Why mediums and shallows?


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## briveigh (Nov 16, 2015)

I didn't list bees, this is to be ready for bees. I will be getting a package. I have a lady nearby who will be getting the packages for me at the end of March/beginning of April. The mediums are for brood and shallow for honey. Thought the shallows being smaller would be easier to carry when full. I could get my husband to help with them, but will probably be bringing in the frames while he is at work. I am joining the local Beekeepers Association, and taking a class in February that is 8 weeks long (I think 8, maybe 9). The foundation I chose is wired. Do you need a capping scratcher before harvesting? Not too worried about harvesting equipment yet.


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## cheryl1 (Mar 7, 2015)

I've never used the bee brush, you might need 3 mediums to over winter depending on location, and I like migratory tops for cost and ease of use


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## cheryl1 (Mar 7, 2015)

Also, you most likely won't get any harvest the first year. If you do want a taste, just crush and strain a frame. No need for extractor and associated equipment yet. I also put my bottom boards on concrete blocks instead of hive stands


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## Arnie (Jan 30, 2014)

You can eliminate the bases and place the bottom board directly on a homemade hive stand,,,, made out of scrap wood.

With only two hives I would use thin surplus foundation in the shallow honey supers and produce cut comb honey or use a crush-and-strain for liquid honey.

Make your own feeders either out of quart canning jars or empty paint cans you can get cheaply at hardware stores. Punch holes in the lid and place them on top of the top bars. Put the shallow supers over them and the hive top on that.

I find the bee brush handy when I am harvesting the comb honey frames. Knock off most of the bees with a shake and brush off the rest. 

Otherwise you are good. You have the basics covered without a lot of useless extras.


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## briveigh (Nov 16, 2015)

Arnie said:


> You can eliminate the bases and place the bottom board directly on a homemade hive stand,,,, made out of scrap wood.
> 
> With only two hives I would use thin surplus foundation in the shallow honey supers and produce cut comb honey or use a crush-and-strain for liquid honey.
> 
> .


I thought about doing half and half with the honey supers. Half with foundation and half not, so in the long run I can have some comb honey. 

As far as harvesting equipment, my local club has an extractor that you can rent for $20 for 4 days, so not worried about that. I understand that it may take 2 years to get honey, so not too worried about that. I'll have hubby figure out something about the foundation. He will hopefully be able to make supers after these first ones we are buying. He has someone who is going to cut the boards for him in the next month or so, so that by next summer they should be ready to build. So they will be basically free. Will probably buy frames, they look like too much aggravation.


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## Dan the bee guy (Jun 18, 2015)

Forget the shallow super go with the mediums. Interchangeable frames will make it a lot easer .


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## phyber (Apr 14, 2015)

Dan the bee guy said:


> Forget the shallow super go with the mediums. Interchangeable frames will make it a lot easer .


+1. I'm considering going from deeps to mediums...but having one size for all brood and honey makes life a lot easier. Bees won't care what size is what...as long as it's there!


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## Arnie (Jan 30, 2014)

I'm kind of a dope, I guess. I use mediums for brood and shallows for honey. I like the way the bees can fill a shallow up fast from end to end, capped perfectly, and I get 40 comb pieces in those nice clear hard plastic boxes with no waste. I get a little liquid honey from the drippings and the occasional imperfect frame. 

It's more practical to have all mediums, but .........that's just the way I roll.

Back when I had more hives I had an extractor; I used mediums for liquid honey and shallows for comb. 
I'm a glutton for punishment..... ha!


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## briveigh (Nov 16, 2015)

I imagine what size boxes you use is a matter of preference as long as you have enough room/boxes for the hive to grow brood, and store honey for the winter.


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

Correct. Consider using all 8 frame mediums if weight and interchangeability are your concerns. You're doing fine so far though. It's on on personal preferences. Make sure to read plenty of books over the winter (my recommendation is Backyard Beekeeper, by Kim Flottum)


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## texanbelchers (Aug 4, 2014)

Considering you have a close source and are planning to build in the future, unless there is a discount I wouldn't purchase the shallows up front. 8-frame equipment is easier to handle, but you may need 4 mediums for each brood nest. I would suggest getting 6 mediums to start 2 hives. That would be enough to see them start and get a feel for things. You could decide what to buy and/or build from there.

If I were to do Tele & Inner Covers, I like the screened inner ones. If the hole is blocked (or none at all), you can lift the tele cover and take a look without any protection. I have decided to use the migratory style top to cut costs.


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

You overlooked two of the most important checks to write:
1) Dues to your local bee club.
2) Admission to the next beeschool and field day.
The most important asset that a beekeeper has rests right between their ears.

If I was stranded on Gilligan's Island, all I would need to work bees (if they were there) would be something to screen my head and matches.
All of the shiny extractors, trucks forklifts and boxes aren't worth a penny apart from a competent beekeeper.
Good luck!


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## briveigh (Nov 16, 2015)

HarryVanderpool said:


> You overlooked two of the most important checks to write:
> 1) Dues to your local bee club.
> 2) Admission to the next beeschool and field day.
> The most important asset that a beekeeper has rests right between their ears.
> ...


Nope, that's covered in post #3. The class I am signing up for in February covers the dues for the State/local beekeepers Association.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

One thing we push in the club is nuc boxes. So when you have swarm cell you can have a spare queen. This nuc start to cover winter losses or when you lose a queen you have one to take it place. They become comb builder. I could list a dozen reason to have one hand. If no more make a d coat type out of scrap wood.


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## briveigh (Nov 16, 2015)

My-smokepole said:


> One thing we push in the club is nuc boxes. So when you have swarm cell you can have a spare queen. This nuc start to cover winter losses or when you lose a queen you have one to take it place. They become comb builder. I could list a dozen reason to have one hand. If no more make a d coat type out of scrap wood.


I have already informed my husband that he is to make a handful of nuc boxes over the winter..lol.


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## dsegrest (May 15, 2014)

briveigh said:


> I know there will other items that I will need once I get started. I am wanting to set up two hive, and have what I think I need listed. The prices are just for my purposes, and are from Miller Bee Supply which is an hour away, so I don't have to worry about shipping. Brushy Mtn is a little closer, but Miller had better prices. Haven't decided on what feeder I want, so that price isn't included. I hope this is the right forum for this.
> 
> $10.95 Cypress Base (2) (21.90)
> $12.90 Screened bottom board (2) (25.80)
> ...


Welcome to beesource. Congratulations on planning ahead. 

The cypress base is probably a waste of money. Make a hive stand. Your bees need to be at least 18" off the ground because you have skunks in Newton. If you husband can make nucs, he can surely make a hive stand. For that matter "boxes" are easy to make as well. You could buy 1 box and "reverse engineer" it and make a lot of boxes from 1 sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood. 

The budget boxes I have bought had so many knots that I had to use wood filler before I painted them anyway. If I were going to buy anymore boxes, I would buy select. 

The foundation comes with vertical wires. You will also need horizontal wires, so buy the wire, nails, grommets and crimper when you get the other stuff. You could of course use waxed plastic foundation in wooden frames. It sure is easier when you are extracting. 

I have not bought anything from Miller Bee Supply, but if I lived close enough to drive to Brushy Mountain, that would be my supplier of choice. Being very small time, I buy from Mann Lake to get free shipping. I have bought a lot of gloves. I still prefer the goatskin that I got from Brushy Mountain over any gloves I've bought since. That was my first pair. I wash them and air dry them and they are major ugly but they still fit. Many of the other gloves have not survived the washing machine.

A bee brush, like a hive stand, is one of the things that are sold to new beekeepers as a necessity, that you will only use once or twice. I use mine to brush off the shelves in the greenhouse. A fresh cut leafy branch is much kinder and more effective.

I don't know if Newton has enough Sourwood to make a crop. If it does, you should pull your first honey and put your supers back for Sourwood. Your local beek club can tell you. Also I don't know if you have bears. I know you are not far from bear country. Check that out as well. 

If you go to the state meeting in New Bern in February, the suppliers will be set up and you can see the equipment before you buy it. You may even want to buy some of it there. Usually they have some discounts. 

I hope to see you in New Bern.


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## briveigh (Nov 16, 2015)

dsegrest said:


> Welcome to beesource. Congratulations on planning ahead.
> 
> The cypress base is probably a waste of money. Make a hive stand. Your bees need to be at least 18" off the ground because you have skunks in Newton. If you husband can make nucs, he can surely make a hive stand. For that matter "boxes" are easy to make as well. You could buy 1 box and "reverse engineer" it and make a lot of boxes from 1 sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood.
> 
> ...


We are planning on the hives being off of the ground, can probably have hubby build something with a landing board for the bees. As far as the budget boxes, I would be picking them up, so I would be able to see what kind of shape they are in, and make a decision then to switch to a better grade. I can visit both suppliers and see what I like best, Brushy is on the way to Millers, but I have heard great things about Millers. 

Not sure about the sourwood, but can find out when meetings start back. There have been the rare bear spotting in this area, about like Charlotte. I don't anyone here protects against bears. 

As far as the State Association meeting, I think it would be great to go, but don't think it would be feasible. The kids will be in school, and with hubby's work, and I don't want to go on my own. I believe the summer meeting is going to be here in Hickory, so definitely going to that one.


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## Galaxie (May 13, 2015)

For those of us who are um... thrifty, turkey feathers make good bee brushes.


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

Galaxie said:


> For those of us who are um... thrifty, turkey feathers make good bee brushes.


But they can blow out of your supply box as you head down the road. I've got one after that happened to me more than a few times and you don't realize it until you need it. Personally I'll do a sudden shake of a frame holding both frame ears to get 95% of bees off a frame. After that, hold a frame ear and rap above the other ear with your palm and repeat holding the other ear that'll get all but 10-20 bees. Use the brush after that.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

A half jacket cannot stand the aggressive bees attack.
Because you never know what bees you will end up with I 
recommend to get a full bee suit. If it is too hot in the
summer time then you can get the ventilated bee suit if you don't
mind paying a bit more.
Also, I did not use my smoker only a few times dealing with the
aggressive bees in the beginning. Now I got the gentle bees so the
smoker is not needed on hive inspection. And the bee brush is a waste
of money I think. Good for brushing dusts though. The bees just cling and
biting the plastic strands on the first brush. 

DCoates: That is why it is so important to band and tape the end of the turkey feathers together so that they are heavier.
This way even a strong wind cannot blow them away only knocked them down a few feet from the hives.


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## Maddy (Jan 20, 2014)

Galaxie said:


> For those of us who are um... thrifty, turkey feathers make good bee brushes.


The cost to buy and raise a turkey far exceeded the cost of about $5 for a heavy duty brush (Don't get cheap boar hair - splurge for the nice synthetic ones -they wash and dry easily!)







Our brushes are invaluable to clear bees off a frame without the rude "Thump" to get them off. But your milage may vary...

~M


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

beepro said:


> DCoates: That is why it is so important to band and tape the end of the turkey feathers together so that they are heavier.
> This way even a strong wind cannot blow them away only knocked them down a few feet from the hives.


I found that when the turkey feather would get wet with honey it wasn't easy to clean either. Pour a little water on it, sling it and you're back in action. The feather required patience and finesse to clean that I lack (apparently). I stored them in a nuc box with a strap with all of my other gear where they were getting damaged in transport and they'd get wet from rain. Invariably I'd have to work them over to get them into usable condition. The bee brush I could just give a quick shake to and I'm in action. Mine is pushing 10 years old now. I'm not saying you're wrong, clearly it works for you. I doesn't for me. I'm a turkey hunter so I was pretty proud to use the feathers off of birds I harvested but they turned out to be more hassle than they were worth.


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## SAS (Sep 4, 2015)

It was mentioned earlier that "you most likely won't get any harvest the first year."

Last year was my first year as a beekeeper, and I was told that as well. 

I started with 4-packages and 1-NUC, by early July, 4 of my 5 hives had filled the lower and upper brood boxes (10-frame deeps) with brood, pollen, and honey. I went ahead and placed med. supers on the 4-hives. I wound up harvesting ~134 lbs. of honey off of those 4-hives.

So don't give up on a honey crop. I feel the reason for getting honey my first year was due to how I fed, what I feed, and the available forage around me.

I know you will hear pros and cons when it comes to using "Honey B Healthy," but I'm confident it was one of the reasons my girls did so well. I have heard it promotes robbing. I did not experience that.

As far as feeders go, last year I order a 4-jar wood top feeder from Dadant that holds 4 one quart jars, along with feeder lids with holes, it worked great, absolutely no drowned bees, and easy to use. Since it holds 4-qt sized jars, you're not having to fill them every day. I placed them on top of the inner cover and a empty hive body and top cover over the feeder. This year, I switched to a 2-Gal top feeder. Which I do like, but they do drown some bees. 

My hives did great last year, and made it through last winter strong. In fact, I was able to split 4 out of 5 hives this past spring, and now I have 9-strong hives going into winter.

Good luck, keep a close eye on them, treat them when needed, and above all, have fun!

Editing: FYI, I removed all the feeders, when I placed the supers on hives.


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## Galaxie (May 13, 2015)

Maddy said:


> The cost to buy and raise a turkey far exceeded the cost of about $5 for a heavy duty brush (Don't get cheap boar hair - splurge for the nice synthetic ones -they wash and dry easily!)
> ~M


There are tons of wild turkeys around here, so I ask hunters for them or occasionally I will find a feather in the woods.


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## briveigh (Nov 16, 2015)

SAS said:


> It was mentioned earlier that "you most likely won't get any harvest the first year."
> 
> Last year was my first year as a beekeeper, and I was told that as well.
> 
> ...


All I am interested in hopefully getting is about 5 lbs. Currently that is about how many I buy from the local lady who has bees. If I do, great, if I don't, I can buy again. From what I gather, I don't think with 2 hives, 5 lbs will be that out of the question, unless I have troubled hives.


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

The thing that new beekeepers need the most is a beekeeper friend. Get one or two please. Why?

Two reasons:

1) If you could start your package with 3-5 combs/frames that are already drawn out gives a colony a HUGE advantage when starting out. (ask your friends to donate)

2) Two weeks after installing a package the hive is poorly balanced in it's population of field bees to nurses. Not enough nurse bees. At that time (2 weeks) it is great to be able to add a frame of larva with nurses from another colony. (again, ask your friends to help)

These two things (not doing them) is the beginning of bad things unless you're bees are very healthy and lucky.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

So the turkey feathers did not work well for you.
Now a day I only use a small piece of thin flexible red chewy foam block. It works for me!
The bees cannot bite or hang on to it because it is flexible when I flicked them off the comb. 
I still use the turkey feathers when brushing the bees off the queen cells, gently of course.


Flexible thin red foam block:


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