# Glue for Hive and Frames



## ken rice (Apr 28, 2010)

Titebond3


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

I use titebond II for frames, which are not likely to be exposed to water. It's cheaper than Titebond III
I use titebond III for anything exterior that might get wet- covers, bottom boards, boxes and feeders.


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## NowThen (Nov 26, 2008)

Ditto.

Titebond III for everything.


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## beegeorge (Apr 19, 2012)

Titebond by all means...

NEVER use Gorrilla - it foams up and pushed the wood apart and leaves a mess


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## mmiller (Jun 17, 2010)

I use Titebond II for everything.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Tightbond II for anything that is painted and not submerged. Wipe with alcohol on cedar and oily wood (added that because not certain if Cypress is or not). My cedar takes a little while longer to come up to full strength. I think II is food labeled but I don’t think III is. I get it by the gallon and am way too cheap to stock two different glues (can get a gallon for about ½ the per oz price of a small bottle, again see cheap).


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

I previously used several other glues, but, since I began using Titebond III, I now use nothing else.

I too buy it by the gallon, much more economical. I simply fill plastic squeeze bottles with the yellow screw-on plastic lids and caps (often used for honey dispenser bottles), with Titebond III and use that as an applicator.


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## Hawkster (Apr 16, 2010)

Gorilla wood glue doesn't foam and works well but I use titebond


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## Nantom670 (Jul 29, 2011)

I use titebond II on frames and screws on my supers, no glue.


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## T.Byrd (Aug 11, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies. So then Gorilla is out. What is the Differ between Titebond 2 and 3? I see both have FDA indirect food labeling

Thanks again Tim


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## w7rms (Jan 12, 2007)

T.Byrd said:


> Thanks for all the replies. So then Gorilla is out. What is the Differ between Titebond 2 and 3? I see both have FDA indirect food labeling
> 
> Thanks again Tim


Titebond 2 is water resistant and can be used down to 55F and Titebond 3 is waterproof and can be used down to 45F.


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## LeonardS (Mar 13, 2012)

T.Byrd said:


> Thanks for all the replies. So then Gorilla is out. What is the Differ between Titebond 2 and 3? I see both have FDA indirect food labeling
> 
> Thanks again Tim


Tite bond III is waterproof


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## rweakley (Jul 2, 2004)

I use titebond II on everything, hivebodies and frames. I also have started painting titebond II on the exposed wood grain on hivebodies and then of course the normal paint on top of that. I figure since that area is the weakest link that hitting it with a water resistant glue was a good deal. If I remember properly the difference in the "water proofness" between II and III for beekeepers is negligible. Someone on here a long time ago had posted the tests that titebond uses on the different glues and I think the difference was something like dipping fully cured II in water and it was just fine, and putting fully cured III in like boiling water and it held up better. I know our hives get hot and wet sometimes, but I figure II is gonna be just fine. On the added cost and time of painting the exposed grain with titebond II, What's a hivebody cost? 7-15$, it doesn't take but a few cents of glue and not long to do for a bit of added insurance. I even paint the edges of the plywood that I make the D.Coates 5 frame nucs with, figure they might last longer than me. LOL
Rod


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

I've used Titebond II for years and have never had any kind of joint failure. I tried Titebond III this year and will probably stick with it from now on. It costs a little more but the per piece increase is insignificant. It seems to give you more time for squaring up before initial set.


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

I like Titebond II. III sets up much faster, not a problem for frames and boxes but I use it for other stuff, too.


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

Titebond III


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

cg3, according to the manufacturer, Titebond II has a total assembly time of 10 -15 minutes, and Titebond III has a total assembly time of 20-25 minutes.


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## T.Byrd (Aug 11, 2012)

Thanks For all the replies. III it is then. 

Have a great weekend to all. Tim


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

Joseph Clemens said:


> cg3, according to the manufacturer, Titebond II has a total assembly time of 10 -15 minutes, and Titebond III has a total assembly time of 20-25 minutes.


You're right. I garbled my response.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

Hey, beekeepers agreeing? What went wrong here? LOL

Use excellent joinery technique so that you don't need glue, then use Titebond III anyways. Make sure you have enough bar clamps, and you can wrap them with Saran Wrap to keep the glue off them. 2" staples are better than nails or screws, but you need an air stapler. Don't staple your Oucheewahwah! Put it over newspaper on top of an old piece of plywood when gluing, keep a pail of water for the paintbrush used for gluing, and a wet sponge for glue cleanup. Don't glue out in the sun. Get a girfriend or boyfriend to put on a swimsuit and help. Best of luck!


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## mmmooretx (Jun 4, 2012)

Titebond III is what I use. Gorilla I don't buy anymore, it works, but turns into a brick in the sealed bottle in a couple of weeks.


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

Titebond III. You can dry assemble box joints with no problem, but the glue should seal the joint and make it last much longer. Any other joint, you really need the glue for strength, expecially butt joints.

Polyurethane is stronger, but ONLY if you nail up immediately or use clamps. It is not gap filling other than foam, and does not have good strength in gaps in the joints, although they are watertight. If you don't clamp properly, the joints can slip, resulting in open joints and/or mis-alignment. Not a problem on box joints, but the stuff is very messy.

Peter


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

I think I'll invest in Titebond III stock and then publish this thread!


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