# DIY wooden ware handle?



## Brad M (Dec 23, 2015)

I just use a 5/8" dado stack and drop the sides down on the table saw to plunge the cut in about 1/2" deep. Works pretty well.


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## Brad Bee (Apr 15, 2013)

I made a jig/sled for one of my table saws that I found online. I'll try to find the video and post a link to it. It works really well. I made spacers to put onto the sled so I can cut the long and short sides and even nuc handles without having to have different sleds.

I changed the stop on mine and like I said, I just use one sled and spacers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5yWQCARkUw


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## bugman2 (Apr 9, 2014)

Try this it is the second one down happy building. http://beesource.com/build-it-yourself/


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## tech.35058 (Jul 29, 2013)

bugman2 said:


> Try this it is the second one down happy building. http://beesource.com/build-it-yourself/


That's the one I use now ... when I started building boxes I just used a cleat of scrap wood.


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

Looked at several youtube videos and settled on this method for my home-built hives.
I do it a lot and have learned to not use very much force when doing the chops. When I get to the bottom of the ramp I bear down on the saw and then pull it back. Makes very smooth cuts that way.
Takes me a little time but it's worth it when I go to wrap em up for winter. Dealing with them handles sticking out is sort of a pain. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaWRjpJ5f0w


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## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

I run a 2inch wide piece of wood through my table saw with a 20 degree bevel. Then cut them up into about 4 inches or so long. glue and screw them to the box before painting. I've even done this on some of my boxes that are factory made with factory cutouts. I find it easier to grip. Only on the front and back though.


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## flyin-lowe (May 15, 2014)

I use a dado set also. I set my fence so the stack hits the center. I have pencil marks on my fence, line up the end at the first mark, drop it down onto the blades, then move forward to the second mark and lift it up. Quick and simple.
My service is slow right now but this is basically what i do. I only cut them on the two short sides and only maybe six inches long. I do mine before i assemble the boxes, easier to handle.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XzDLIXMsj5A


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## Brad M (Dec 23, 2015)

Yep, that's what I do. Easy peasy.


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## adson (Nov 25, 2009)

I use a router jig with a dovetail bit. Makes a much better looking handle.
The jig holds the router at a slight angle it makes a rectangular cutout.

See the outyard dot net, he makes one almost the same.


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## Jim_in_PA (May 17, 2016)

I pattern route a hand-hold in the boxes I make.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

I cut the hand holds in the sides like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2q5Hnogvqg

And put sloped handle cleats on the ends:


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

odfrank said:


> I cut the hand holds in the sides like this:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2q5Hnogvqg
> 
> And put sloped handle cleats on the ends:


Pretty ugly. Mine look much better.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

The lessons to be learned from Charlie's handles mounted at the top of the box are: 
While helpful to strengthen the rabbited edge, no factory made overhanging telescoping or migratory cover will fit your boxes. You will have to home make a flat or extra long cover for every hive. 
Dropping the handle down 2" allows the use of overhanging covers and gives a better spread for your hand to get a strong grip on heavy boxes.
The slope of my handles also give you a good grip when carrying two boxes hanging vertically, one in each hand. Thumb on the top of the rabbit, four fingers under the down sloped handle bottom.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Another lesson to be learned from Charlie's post is, and I am sure Barry will agree, is:
When replying to a post with embedded pictures, don't re-copy the pictures in your reply. Especially when you are a put-down artist and are insulting what is shown in the pictures. That weakens your insult.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

My hive bodies all have the angled cleats similar to those in Ollie's photos in post # 12. I like that those cleats also act as drip edges to deflect rain water that would otherwise run down the sides of the stacked hive bodies.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

I have failed to mention that Ollie's handles are very functional as I had the pleasure to use them recently. Although they are not asetically pleasing, they are very practical.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Here is what happens with level top cleats (and your boxes are 40 years old):


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## frustrateddrone (Jan 31, 2015)

I put sloped cleats on mine. It works, fast and easy. I never thought doing it with the jig on a table saw was safe. Nor with a contractor saw the way I have seen it done. I am not a commercial bee keeper, so I only have max of probably 50 boxes I will ever have in my lifetime.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Were the sloped cleats your idea Frustrated? I'm asking because Ollie thinks he invented them.:scratch:


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Charlie B said:


> Were the sloped cleats your idea Frustrated? I'm asking because Ollie thinks he invented them.:scratch:


Langstroth hives have been around since 1851? Hard to claim you invented something new. It's all been done before by somebody. All I said was that when I displayed them here years ago, some nice guy coined them "odfrank" handles. Unlike your fabulous invention of the antproof stand, I don't have 90000 views on any of my threads like you do. Charlie, you make Michael Bush look like he is standing still, we all know that and hold you in adulation.


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## ericweller (Jan 10, 2013)

The cut in handholds are too painful for me when I am hefting a 90 lb deep. Half an inch is not much of a hand hold. I use cleats which gives another 1/4 inch which makes all the difference in the world. I don't slope my cleats but I do run a bead of caulk along the top edge to seal out the water. They probably won't last 40 years but they are on 5 years now and no issues with rotting.


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