# Home Made Uncapper



## missybee (Sep 6, 2014)

Do you still know where the fb post is? if so do a screen shot of the uncapper, maybe people here can figure out the way to build one. I like the thought of it, kills my arm to uncap the frames.


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## wwfoste (Jul 19, 2014)

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1114807111905558&id=1038776502841953


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

that's not the one I saw, the one I saw was in a wooden box with sharpened knife blades, that appears to be the same concept but has 2 hot knifes mounted to a bracket.


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## DJS (May 7, 2012)

Harley, I also seen the one you are talking about and would be interested in a plan for it.


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## Riskybizz (Mar 12, 2010)

There are no plans that I have been able to locate anyways. There are a couple of threads here with information and video links. Lyson maked one and can be ordered in the U.S. reasonably priced.


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## Eddie Honey (May 30, 2011)

https://www.facebook.com/NahelBee/videos/1114287631957506/?fref=nf


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## ubiewan (Oct 25, 2012)

This is the one I saw~thanks for finding it. OK, so, can anyone make up some plans??


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## AAIndigo (Jun 14, 2015)

I wouldnt mind giving it a go. I'm sure I could do it just need a source for the knives. Take a look at the frames in the video. They are straight frames and dont have the bevel at the bottom. Not sure if would matter, just an observation.

I might give it go when time permits.
AA


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

A thought would two cold knives set in a v work for the blades. I don't know how long cold knives are. I see this as the biggest challenge for most people.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

As I got sitting here they should work.


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

I would bet that the knives are only in the V formation because they didn't have one that was long enough to go all the way across. This is basically a mandoline for honey. If the frame fed longways the blade wouldn't need to be so long.

A plain (not bi-metal or carbide) carbon steel commercial band saw blade would make a good knife for this - if you could get one.


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

I'd keep a first aid kit nearby.


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

A hot wire instead of a blade might be a good option.


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## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

interesting but after a few frames its going to be the same as a cold knife. going to get gummed up and not cut well. plus he was pulling pretty hard imo.


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## challenger (May 27, 2009)

This looks pretty slick. I think two very thin pieces of stainless steel in a Vee similar to what is shown would work at least to prototype the set up. I think I would use a sled or something to put the frame in so I wasn't using, and losing, my finger tips. This also may be uncapping the perfect frame of honey. Uneven comb is very common for me. I'm also not crazy about the amount of honey left in the cappings but there isn't much to do about this I don't think. I actually like the first one that was shown. A metal frame on a nice angle would allow gravity to help drag the frame. Interesting for sure.
Thanks


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## aldenmiller (Mar 21, 2016)

I saw the same video and was planning on making one when I have to uncap honey next year. I was intending to use used planer blades that I lightly hone to resharpen. The box looks to be the same with as the length of a langstroth box. It has rabbets on the sides for the frames to slide in. Pretty easy to make if you can make a hive box. While they made theirs for the width of the frame you could make one to be the same as the height of the frame if you used the same size frames in all your honey supers.

-Alden


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## Brad Bee (Apr 15, 2013)

I think it's in a V to help reduce drag. Didn't look like a hot knife to me. I looks like it worked good to me.


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

David LaFerney said:


> A hot wire instead of a blade might be a good option.


That's a really good idea.


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## Joe Hillmann (Apr 27, 2015)

David LaFerney said:


> A hot wire instead of a blade might be a good option.


I read some old threads that about people trying to use hot wires to uncap frames. The wire didn't have enough thermal mass to work well. If it was just in wax it worked pretty well. When it was in honey it would slow way down then between frames when it was in the air it would heat way up to the point the wire would burn out or when when they would start cutting again the 1/2 inch or so it would burn the wax and honey.

One guy suggested using some way to measure the voltage to control the heat under various conditions.


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## challenger (May 27, 2009)

I don't think a hot wire would work although it does sound like a great idea. What I'm pretty sure will happen is that the honey will quickly remove the heat from the wire being that the wire has such a small amount of mass. 
I also think the angle of the blade(s) have everything to do with proper capping removal. This angle will shear the wax instead of just sort of pushing on it. 
How about two sets of the blades? A set above and a set below the frame so both side are done at once? This could be done if using a device to push the frame.


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

I cut handsaw blades and welded them together in a vee but it is just not stiff enough. I wonder if i attached some kind of a steel AC line if that would stiffen it up. This idea has been in my head since i first saw it several years ago. People talking about knives made me think of harbor freight machetes cut to shape and welded. The wooden frame or metal would be the easy part. Copper tubing brazed on to run steam thru.


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## challenger (May 27, 2009)

What about making an X instead of a Vee? The blades will start cutting at the wide part of the X instead of the point of the Vee. What That might be able to afford you is tensioning of the blades. By running the blades in an X pattern each end would attach to the opposite side and some sort of turn buckle at one end would provide all the tension you could need to make the stiff blade. Sort of like tensioning a hacksaw IYKWIM.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

One way is to drill a water passage(1/4") through a 20" piece of 304 and then mount the carbon steel meat saw blade to the 304.

And you ask, "how do you drill a 20" long hole in Stainless"....
....very carefully.

Crazy Roland


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## KevinR (Apr 30, 2010)

Get 1/4" stainless flat bar, cut angle to sharpen the bottom of the blade leaving a flat edge against the frame. Tack weld stainless tubing to the under the blade to provide heat from a steam generator or hot water pump.

Don't see why that wouldn't work. Might have to put it on my list of things to build...


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