# alternative covering for telescoping outer cover.



## vdotmatrix (Apr 5, 2014)

Convention has it that the TOC has to be sheet metal.

I find it expensive and a pain to work with to get a nice result.

Does anyone use something other than sheet metal to cover the telescoping outer cover?

thanks


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## dynemd (Aug 27, 2013)

EDPM roofing membrane, black or white. Contact cement it to the wood. Pretty much indestructible. LINK CLICK HERE SECOND LINK


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## jvalentour (Sep 4, 2014)

I'm putting some vinyl flashing on tops this weekend. It really doesn't look that hard to deal with. What are you considering a pain? It certainly is not expensive.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

T111 siding without the groves. 
I also have done tin and it was a pain until I made a little brake out of two pieces of steel with cut washers between them. yeah and sometimes that looks like crap also. About a month ago the sheet metal rolled back up on me and the sharp edge just missed my face.


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## kramerbryan (Oct 30, 2013)

I picked up a stack of election signs at the dump. I use them to cover my tops, as an inner cover, to divide ten frame into two fives, and am going to make a Cloake board this weekend with one as a the divider.


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## jvalentour (Sep 4, 2014)

Minz,
I'll try and find the image. Somebody on bee source had a real nice idea. 
They took a 2x4 and ran a diagonal cut about one inch deep. Made a perfect brake. I'll let you know how it works this weekend.
When flashing unrolls, it cuts. It is what it is.
Joe


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## vdotmatrix (Apr 5, 2014)

i like it thank you!!


dynemd said:


> EDPM roofing membrane, black or white. Contact cement it to the wood. Pretty much indestructible. LINK CLICK HERE SECOND LINK


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

minz said:


> T111 siding without the groves.


Isn't that what we called "exterior plywood" back in the day?


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## GaryG74 (Apr 9, 2014)

I use 24" wide aluminum flashing in a roll. You can get it cut by the foot. Score with a sharp knife using a straight edge, bend to break the cut and use a rubber mallet to bend around the top. I use a scrap board and c-clamps to hold the top in place while bending the edges. Cut notches in the corners with tin snips and fold under the sides. Costs about $2-3 per top and looks great.


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## vdotmatrix (Apr 5, 2014)

I think you responded to a post last year I think becuase I remember someone saying score the flashing with a razor knife and for something else it worked very well....


GaryG74 said:


> I use 24" wide aluminum flashing in a roll. You can get it cut by the foot. Score with a sharp knife using a straight edge, bend to break the cut and use a rubber mallet to bend around the top. I use a scrap board and c-clamps to hold the top in place while bending the edges. Cut notches in the corners with tin snips and fold under the sides. Costs about $2-3 per top and looks great.


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## GaryG74 (Apr 9, 2014)

That was me. I don't remember who suggested scoring with the knife but it works. Most of the times I use off set tin snips since I can't cut straight without a guide when using the knife. The flashing works for me but the other coverings work also. I just have a source for the flashing and haven't found the other materials.


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## vdotmatrix (Apr 5, 2014)

you are so lucky...I am a small operation and if i found where I don't have to buy 100 feet of anything i would be happy....I know I will have to do something soon.... thankagain!!! I am glad we have this forum...


GaryG74 said:


> That was me. I don't remember who suggested scoring with the knife but it works. Most of the times I use off set tin snips since I can't cut straight without a guide when using the knife. The flashing works for me but the other coverings work also. I just have a source for the flashing and haven't found the other materials.


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## canoemaker (Feb 19, 2011)

I use 14" aluminum flashing for my mating nucs and cut it with a razor knife...just score and bend. For my production hives I use 24" trim coil. It's more expensive, but is nearly indestructible. I cut it with aviation snips. It's also tougher to bend than flashing. When you are working your hives in the sun it is not as annoying as the reflective aluminum.


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## AR Beekeeper (Sep 25, 2008)

I bought treated plywood, the type used to make concrete forms with, and used those for the top of the cover. They are 18 years old now, and they are still as sound and functional as they were the day I put them in service. The wooden frame I treated with copper naphthenate, but pretreated 1x4 can be used.


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## capathome (Sep 20, 2011)

I contacted the local newspaper printer and found that I could buy used aluminum printing sheets for scrap cost, just pennies each. Assuming that your local paper has not gone to a smaller "magazine" size format, the regular size double sheet fits a full size hive telescoping cover perfectly. Cover the tops with the "ink" side in. Very thin aluminum and quite easy to work with just hand tools and a few nails. When you go, get a lifetime supply as the newspaper industry is changing rapidly.

capathome


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## canoemaker (Feb 19, 2011)

capathome said:


> Very thin aluminum and quite easy to work with just hand tools and a few nails.


How does its thickness compare to that of regular aluminum flashing?


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## capathome (Sep 20, 2011)

Newspaper aluminum is .008. 8 thousandths of an inch. Cannot lay hands on a piece of regular coil stock without going outside to the work truck, -14 F, not happening just now. suffice it to say that it is much thinner, I cut it with regular scissors. Never had a durability issue using it to cover tops. Many other uses around the shop for patterns etc.
I generally lay the sheet on the workbench, ink side up, place the tele cover on, figure how much to fold over, mark, cut with scissors, fold edges and wrap corners just like wrapping a christmas gift. I use a power stapler at the corners but a few nails or staples around the edge works too

capathome


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## canoemaker (Feb 19, 2011)

I looked at my sheet metal thickness (gauge) chart for aluminum. It only goes down to .0056, which translates to 35 gauge. The sheets you have are probably 37 or 38 gauge. That really is thin! By the way, we are at -8 F and rising.


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## WilliamsHoneyBees (Feb 17, 2010)

When I was making telescoping lids ( I have since switched to a flat piece of plywood for a lid) I went to a local metal roofing manufacturing shop. They cut the pieces to size for me for $2 a piece. All I had to do was bend the edges with a home made metal brake and nail them on. We have three metal roofing shops within an hour of here. Maybe you have something like that close to you.


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## dsegrest (May 15, 2014)

I make mine with cabinet grade plywood and put lots of spar urethane. I haven't been in the business long enough to say how well they last.


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## capathome (Sep 20, 2011)

Just found a scrap of coil stock in the shop, it measures .018. 18 thousandths, more than twice the thickness of the press plates. And much stiffer to bend.

capathome


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## tech.35058 (Jul 29, 2013)

jvalentour said:


> Minz,
> I'll try and find the image. Somebody on bee source had a real nice idea.
> They took a 2x4 and ran a diagonal cut about one inch deep. Made a perfect brake. I'll let you know how it works this weekend.
> When flashing unrolls, it cuts. It is what it is.
> Joe


Thanks for that tip. Sounds a lot easier than what I had been doing.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

This is probably off of Beesource: (no pirating intended)


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I've covered them with aluminum printing plates, 30# felt, roll roofing, rubber roofing and even just paint. They all work. Use what you have...


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## jvalentour (Sep 4, 2014)

Minz, Try this.

http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...g-jig-for-top-covers&highlight=flashing+brake


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## garusher (May 28, 2012)

I just use the 24" x 50' aluminum flashing from home depot. cut 20" x 24" i get 30 lids to a roll. $67 a roll = $2.24 each


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Beregondo said:


> Isn't that what we called "exterior plywood" back in the day?


Exterior plywood is not meant for extended exterior application. The X is for the glue type but it will come apart. The siding like T1-11 is designed for exterior application. http://www.ezwoodshop.com/plywood/cdx-plywood.html
I don’t know if the LaFerney Brake would work on the galvanized tin that I use. I just need a couple of pieces of metal that are long enough to do the long side. The one I have made is exactly like the one Barry posted in the linked thread by Jvalentour.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

So far I like all the lids shown more then mine
gww


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