# boxes made from treated wood



## Chip Euliss (Sep 2, 2010)

May want to see what the wood was treated with to make sure it doesn't negatively impact your bees. Wax will help but wax is also a sponge that absorbs chemicals. That may allow small quantities of the treatment to weep through to the bees.


----------



## sakhoney (Apr 3, 2016)

treated wood just like a landscape timber - not sure what they use but same co offering to treat the wood


----------



## GaryG74 (Apr 9, 2014)

To be safe, I'd go with the wax dip alone and pass on the treated wood, no matter what was used to treat it. It's treated to keep insects, fungus, and rot from affecting it.


----------



## RAK (May 2, 2010)

I dip my boxes in copper treatment before painting. No negative effects.


----------



## Makin' Honey (Sep 13, 2010)

I dip mine in Copper also, adds at least 10 years to the boxes. FYI, I got cheap last year and used diesel fuel instead of mineral spirits. It takes forever for them to dry. Lesson learned, I have switched back to mineral spirits.


----------



## Aroc (May 18, 2016)

Somehow the idea of treated wood....even coated with wax.....doesn't sound like s good idea. Have you ever had a splinter from treated wood that you couldn't get out for awhile? Tends to hurt more and swell up. Can't imagine the bees would do well in the long run....my two bits..


----------



## RichardsonTX (Jul 3, 2011)

I use to sell lumber to a lot of commercial projects and there were specifications for treated lumber that would be used on playgrounds, heavy human use/activity areas, that was suppose to have a treatment chemical that was safe for humans. I can't remember exactly which one (I think it was ACQ, not CCA) it was but a little research could probably get you that answer. If I used treated lumber for bee equipment it would be that type. But, it could be that it would still be lethal to insects. The reason it's lethal to insects is to prevent termites and similar types of insects from destroying the wood. Example: Borate treated lumber (which is not for exterior use) is used for bottom plates in wall framing and is treated solely for insect resistance. 

If I did something like this, in your area, I'd use cypress. But, it has it drawbacks too since it's like a sponge and retains a lot of water in it's cells and can get heavy, create higher moisture levels in the hive, etcetera. 

If you use pressure treated lumber then sticker it, strap it, and let it dry first. Otherwise you'll have some funny looking boxes with a lot of ventilation. 

If I ran a lot of hives I think (no experience, just assuming) I'd have a way to dip my hives in paraffin wax.

Edit: Maybe not, since I do like the reflective coating of a high gloss white paint, especially for Texas.


----------



## sakhoney (Apr 3, 2016)

I was going to use treated wood - then wax dip them to seal the treated wood off from the bees - I now plan to just wax dip them


----------



## Oldtimer (Jul 4, 2010)

Where I am there is around 50 inches rain per annum and after moving here I found untreated boxes could start rotting in as little as 5 years. Never liked or agreed with using treated timber but 5 years is just too expensive for me never mind the work of making, changing at the hives, and disposing of the old boxes. Wax dipping extends life a bit but is not as effective as one might think.

Then I discovered a timber merchant who have developed a timber treatment especially for beehives, comes with a 25 year guarantee.

Here's a link to their web page on the subject, scroll down to BEE FRIENDLY CHEMICALLY TREATED WET for an explanation. I think a large part of what they use is copper so that could maybe be imitated. They also have what they call Thermowood which is a chemical free treatment, not sure if something comparable would be available in US.

http://tunnicliffes.co.nz/bee-woodware-.html


----------



## RichardsonTX (Jul 3, 2011)

Oldtimer, thanks for link. I always like looking at what other lumber products are being offered around the world. I thought I'd seen it all until one day I had to supply a bunch of this (https://www.accoya.com/) stuff to a customer for a public commercial project in Dallas. Supposedly it's impregnable and at it's cost it should be. For me, I'm satisfied with some good ole southern yellow pine or maybe some really well priced, clear Spruce (although I don't think it'll last as long).


----------



## Brian Suchan (Apr 6, 2005)

Wow they use a helicopter to move bees!!! Is that common practice there??


----------



## Oldtimer (Jul 4, 2010)

In New Zealand you mean? If so, yes they get flown into inaccessable areas if there are valuable manuka crops to be had.


----------



## B230 (1 mo ago)

Oldtimer said:


> Where I am there is around 50 inches rain per annum and after moving here I found untreated boxes could start rotting in as little as 5 years. Never liked or agreed with using treated timber but 5 years is just too expensive for me never mind the work of making, changing at the hives, and disposing of the old boxes. Wax dipping extends life a bit but is not as effective as one might think.
> 
> Then I discovered a timber merchant who have developed a timber treatment especially for beehives, comes with a 25 year guarantee.
> 
> ...


I feel your pain, Oldtimer. Especially with the price of wood these days! I've used Copper Green to seal the ends of untreated and pressure treated lumber. It was explained to me that even during the pressurized process, the chemicals do not fully penetrate the wood, and when you make a cut in a piece of the wood it makes it vulnerable to rot and mold. This beekeeper on youtube uses the copper napthenate treatment. He recommends to give it a good air dry and then paint it in the winter. How We Treat and Paint Our Beehive Boxes


----------



## A Novice (Sep 15, 2019)

I like cedar, personally.
Itseems to last pretty well, but I have to admit I haven't stayed with one set of equipment to know.


----------



## B230 (1 mo ago)

A Novice said:


> I like cedar, personally.
> Itseems to last pretty well, but I have to admit I haven't stayed with one set of equipment to know.


Cedar is a beautiful wood. It has excellent rot and insect resistance. Posts we placed in the ground (in the snowbelt country) have lasted approximately 30 years. Cedar is also warp resistant, however; it can check leading to the outer layers shrinking and cracking especially when coming into contact repeatedly with a higher moisture content inner layer of the wood. It's also more expensive than other woods such as pine or fir. In addition, Iron nails react with cedar and cause them to rust. Galvanized nails can be used to prevent this from happening when working with cedar. Probably way too much info and slightly off topic. Maybe someone will find it useful though.


----------



## William Bagwell (Sep 4, 2019)

B230 said:


> Cedar is a beautiful wood. It has excellent rot and insect resistance.


Heart wood does for sure, sap edge is no better than pine. Also three different species sold as cedar in the US, more worldwide. Each has advantages / disadvantages... And do not forget cypress which also is rot resistant and offered by a few bee vendors.


----------



## A Novice (Sep 15, 2019)

B230 said:


> Cedar is a beautiful wood. It has excellent rot and insect resistance. Posts we placed in the ground (in the snowbelt country) have lasted approximately 30 years. Cedar is also warp resistant, however; it can check leading to the outer layers shrinking and cracking especially when coming into contact repeatedly with a higher moisture content inner layer of the wood. It's also more expensive than other woods such as pine or fir. In addition, Iron nails react with cedar and cause them to rust. Galvanized nails can be used to prevent this from happening when working with cedar. Probably way too much info and slightly off topic. Maybe someone will find it useful though.


True enough.
It is lighter and softer than pine, and I suspect it has higher insulation value. I haven't had problems with checking or splitting. I have a lot of cedar from a deck I tore out, and ripped to a square edge and joined with a kreg jig it works well.
Given a wax/rosin dip it seems indestructible.


----------

