# requeening feral swarm



## Tia (Nov 19, 2003)

I've only kept bees for two years (this is my third) and have only requeened 3 times. All three times, however, I removed the attendants, following Wyatt Mangum's instructions and it's worked great. All 3 queens were readily accepted. I merely left the hives queenless for 24 hrs before introducing the queen cage. I didn't spray scented sugar syrup at all.


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## Scot Mc Pherson (Oct 12, 2001)

AB == Africanized Bee ??? I am just guessing since I am accustomed to seeing AHB.

It will be quite a while before they gain any strength, the bees have to build a nest, the queen has to lay it up and they have to develop and emerge first, then the cluster needs to go through a growing period of a couple of months before they gain any real strength.

If you suspect africanized, exactly why do you suspect it?

TBHs make life much easier for the beekeeper with agressive bees, that's a fact.


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## AlpineJean (Apr 3, 2005)

Tia: Who is Wyatt Magnum and where can I find his instructions?

Scott:

Thanks for the heads up on the abbreviation - Now I know it's AHB








I suspect that they are because in this area all of the swarms are likely AHBs (unless they are directly from some keepers nice hive) We have so many feral bees here that it's a good guess. It's common for colonies to become AHBs here after a year (whenever the swarms happen) 
When I work with them in the next few days I'll probly have a better feel for their aggressiveness. Right now they are in an OLD Lang hive body and I will eventually transfer them to a TBH w/ those swarm frames.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Personally I'd just keep an eye on them and requeen if they get agressive. But you have to decide that for yourself. I think it's sad to destroy good genetics on the suspicion that they MIGHT be AHB.

But that's me. If you want to play it safe on the agression, then you can requeen if you like.


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## AlpineJean (Apr 3, 2005)

Yes, I agree, I hate to destroy a perfectly prolific laying queen solely on suspicion. I had decided that I will wait and see how they behave. I checked them yesterday and they seemed just bee like and not out of site w/ their aggressiveness. They did follow us for about 50yards away from the hive as we walked off so ...


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

One bee following for 50 yards I don't worry about. If a lot of them are following you that far, that's suspicious, but then the Russians seem to do that and they aren't that bad to deal with.


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## AlpineJean (Apr 3, 2005)

Well, I just a few minutes ago went out and sat next to the hive at an angle from the entrance and just watched them come and go (I had on a veil  and I spritzed the entrance landing board w/ sugar syrup and watch a bunch come out and lick it up. Only a few came over and checked me out and then went on back to the hive or out and about. I wasn't doing anything but sit there quietly but since I was only 1 from their front door and they didn't come out en masse I figure they are OK. I need to find pictures of different races of bees to see if I can identify this bunch as Italian, Carnis etc - Is that possible w/ just looking at them?


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## Jer733 (Oct 5, 2008)

*Africanized Bees*

AlpineJean,

I assume you are from Alpine, I am in Fallbrook area and have same issues with feral bees I am capturing.

I have chose to re-queen them all and see how it goes, though I have not had too many issues running them to this point.

My mentors have engrained in me that almost ALL feral bees in our area are AHB.

To this, if you have concern you can take in 5-7 workers into the local ag office and they will test them for free.

I used San Marcos, but that is a bit far for you.

Good Luck,
Jeremy


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## jdb1930 (Apr 20, 2008)

If you even suspect AHB I would requeen them immediately. In TX AHB's must be quarantined and re-queened or destroyed. At least that is how I understood it.


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