# Feeder hole size and how many ?



## honeybeekeeper

You just want a very small hole about the size of a ink pen head...Any bigger and the syrup will leak out the cap. I have several caps that leak myself. I buy the lids and if i see one that leaks i just replace it. You can put as many holes as you wish in the top! Use a small tack nail, Just make sure the tip of the nail barely goes in the cap, if the nail goes in the cap you went to far and the hole is to big! I use the very point of the nail head (V) and i dont go no farther. If i do sometimes i can flip the cap over and tap down on the punchered hole on the other side to make the hole look like the size i need. Good Luck!!!


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## scdw43

I use a small frame nail to make the holes, but the drill bit size to use is 1/16 of an inch. Make a few holes put the cap on and see if they leak. It will drip until the pressure equalizes then should stop. The pretty white lids work but so do the two piece canning jar lids.


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## ArkansasBK

If you insist on drilling holes, a # 60 drill bit is about the size of the holes in the bought lids. Any GOOD machine shop should have at least a dozen on hand. That size won't be found at Wally World!! A dremel with a collet to hold it works best. High rpm is required for the smaller drill bits. Buy several. they break easily, unless you are very careful. Very little pressure. 


Wayne (retired machinist!)


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## johng

To answer your questions I use just the tip of the small nails that you use to put frames together with. 15-20 holes seem to be enough.

If I could add a question not to hijack the thread but, what size hole saw do you use to make for the quart jar type feeders? Right now I've been using a jig saw but, it takes longer than a hole saw would.


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## kbenz

johng said:


> If I could add a question not to hijack the thread but, what size hole saw do you use to make for the quart jar type feeders? Right now I've been using a jig saw but, it takes longer than a hole saw would.


I bought an adjustable hole saw from harbor freight. works well
http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-circle-cutter-37370.html


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## libhart

What I seemed to find is that a vacuum will always form, but the bigger the holes, the more you'll lose before it does form. So if you have lots of holes that are a little too large, you'll get a lot of dripping before it stops. Smaller holes will keep more in your feeder. I personally use a plastic bucket. First I used a drill bit, 5/64. The vacuum formed, but I lost a lot on the ground when flipping it. Then I took a piece of wire (don't remember the gauge exactly, thin), warmed it just enough to melt through, and then melted tiny holes into a replacement lid. Much better. The more you have, the quicker your bees can empty the lid, and the more it'll drip when you first flip it. 20 sounds about right though.


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## AmericasBeekeeper

I drill a 3/4 to one inch hole to set the feeder on my migratory covers. They are cheap and last longer than the "one size fits all" hole saws. I have been using the same hole saw for 5 years continuously.


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## jim314

I use an ice pick and try to make sure only the very tip penetrates. The smaller the better.


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## Scrapfe

bbbthingmaker said:


> I have read conflicting instructions on the size of holes to put in the lid of an inverted jar feeder...


I have used everything from as big as a 1/8 drill bit, to a frame nail and even a 1/64 bit left over from drilling out carb jets in my racing days, and I make 25-30 holes or more. But as long as you have a good airtight seal I have not found any difference in how fast the syrup flows, even when testing with plain water left sitting for days in an upside down jar feeder in the hot summer sun. 

What is very important is not to make a hole(s) too near the edge of the cap that pierces or compromises the rubber or (on a one gallon jar lid) the clear soft clear plastic sealing ring that resides under the top outside edge of, say a pickle jar lid. Piercing this seal allows air to enter the jar in an uncontrolled fashion no matter how hard you bear down on the cap, allowing syrup to flow out of the jar as fast as air enters.

Also, always invert and test your jars' airtight integrity for at least 10 or 15 seconds before lowering the jar onto the inner cover. A large set of slip joint pliers are handy to tweak the jar lids that fail to seal airtight by hand. Just don't over do it, that's glass you’re holding in your hands there.


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## HONEYDEW

As to number of holes I was taught that if your purpose is to add weight to a colony you want a lot of holes, but if you want to stimulate brood rearing you want a few holes...like the nectar is just starting I guess is the reasoning, and the guy who taught me does pretty well so I just do it.


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## Groundhwg

Once you make the hole for the jar how big should the holes in the lid be and do you make them from the inside or the outside of the lids?
Thanks.


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## JWPalmer

Groundhwg, I use mason jar feeders on all my nucs. The holes are punched from the outside with my staple gun. I drive 9 staples for a total of 18 holes, then pop the staples back out. I tried using a nail but kept getting leakers.


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## Groundhwg

Great, thanks for the reply. I did not know which side the hole needed to made from. Also that is a very good "hack" on making the holes. Good idea.


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## yukonjeff

I use a plastic peanut butter jar. I unfold a small size paper clip, hold it with a needle nose, and heat with a lighter and easily melts holes through the plastic lid.


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## Bdfarmer555

I use a stick to tap the point of my pocket knife just into the jar lid. 3-5 times depending on if I make one hole a little too large. 

Drill a 1" hole in the nuc lid and set the jar on top. Bees will propolize it to the lid, preventing rain from getting in. They also propolize the holes in the lid if they run outta syrup. When not feeding, a strip of duct tape covers the hole in the nuc nicely.


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## mtnmyke

If there is a flow, my girls won't take syrup on the hive, so in my thought - the more holes the better since when they take it, they must need it!

I drill 1.5" holes in the top of all my migratory covers and punch as many small holes within that 1.5 inch area I can fit on a lid.

Reason I do 1.5" is the Mann Lake plugs fit perfectly for when I'm not feeding. The plugs are cheap and work perfectly.


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## little_john

The size of the holes isn't too important - the smaller the better (within reason). What IS important is the area around the holes, as this needs to be as flat as possible - for this is where the meniscus forms (which prevents air from getting into the jar, until it's been sucked away). So - always punch from the outside inwards ... How many holes ? I find 3 to 5 does the job ok.

I did once make a jar-lid with a huge hole - around an inch and a half if memory serves - with a fine wire-mesh screen glued over that hole. Worked fine and didn't drip (as the fine mesh held the meniscus ok) and could be tilted to around 45 degrees before any dripping started.  But - that was only to demonstrate the underlying principle - I'm certainly not recommending such an elaborate construction ...
LJ


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## Sour Kraut

johng said:


> If I could add a question not to hijack the thread but, what size hole saw do you use to make for the quart jar type feeders? Right now I've been using a jig saw but, it takes longer than a hole saw would.


Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and find the 'Milwaukee' Hole Saw area

Take along a feeder jar cap and ring and find a hole saw that will let the ring slide thru

or not, you may want to cut it smaller so the jar sits on top of the inner cover, not through it

Get the matching arbor and chuck it in a drill press........you do NOT want to try to cut that size hole with a hand-drill, unless you like twisted wrists


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## gcolbert

> If I could add a question not to hijack the thread but, what size hole saw do you use to make for the quart jar type feeders? Right now I've been using a jig saw but, it takes longer than a hole saw would.


 2 7/8 for a standard Mason jar and most quart jars. Fits snugly and should be sanded a bit to keep lids from locking in too tight.


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