# Screw Advance Box Joint Jig



## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Looks like using a printing press when a hand written note will do the job. Over engineered for making bee equipment.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Specialkayme said:


> So, has anyone made one? How easy is it? How well does it work?


I got a headache just thinking about making that jig.  If you do make one, make two while you're at it and ship me the other one!


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

I personally don't use box joints or make tenons but that jig is definitely pretty cool. I would make it just to make it. The gears would be the hardest things to make but not impossible. Don't know if its an illusion but the teeth appear to be a bit tapered on the bottoms. Hopefully the plans come with a chart for gear reductions etc for whatever kind a screw (threads per inch) it uses so you dont have to calculate your own (and a conversion chart from metric-english since the plans are not in english units). The gears would be the hardest part of the project for sure. Look at the plywood he used to make them too, it looks to be 7 ply. its a pretty cool jig if you would use it regularly.

edit: here's how he makes the gears
http://woodgears.ca/gear/howto.html


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Barry said:


> Over engineered for making bee equipment.


It was not designed to be solely used for bee equipment. It was designed to make box joints onto anything that could fit into the jig, of any size or type.

The video shows the jig being used to make fingers on a 1" (I think it's a 1") thick dowel, using only a regular table saw blade, and slipping them in end to end. The jig could also be used to join wood and glue it but to but. For that reason alone it would be valuable to me.

If I was just trying to make a jig to make 1/2" box joints on bee equipment, this thing would be like using a Nuke to kill an ant. I'll agree with you there.

Rwurster - the free version of the plans does have gears that can be printed out and placed onto plywood, then cut out the template. It even shows using various drill bits for the inside of the gears, then a band saw to shape them out. I would also agree that it would be the most difficult part. And yes, there is a conversion chart, for the various size gears to use, how many times to advance it, and so forth. I'm not certain about the metric to english part though, I didn't notice it was in metric.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Charlie B said:


> If you do make one, make two while you're at it and ship me the other one!


Making multiple sets at once would make the most sense, if I were to build it that is . . .


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

In the video he said the plans were in metric but I also noticed he was using english drill bit sizes etc. I think its a cool jig and I personally would make one just for the challenge, but if i made it i would of course have to use it  I personally dont have a band saw or a drill press or i would be making gears out of scrap for kicks. If you can use it in your woodworking activities i would suggest you make it. Sounds like you would have multiple uses for it. Good luck


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

Honestly, this whole discussion boils down to the love of woodworking, NOT about someone scrambling around needing 400 perfect boxes tomorrow. At $8.00 - $10.00 per box KD on a pallet is hard to beat.
But, woodworking is just like beekeeping ; there is no end to the joy of fiddling around with it.
I would never take the time to build that jig but if I did I would be very proud of a job well done!


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Yeah, this is a case where the jig IS the project!


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

I don't have a drill press or a (functioning) band saw either (although I could just use a small handsaw for the band saw cuts, the drill holes will require a bit more precision though). That is the only reason I hesitate to start this project. It all hinges on those gears, and if I can't make them accurately, there isn't much of a point in the jig.

So I'd have some difficulty making those gears, and I'm just wondering if it would end up working in the end, making it worth the hassle.


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

Well said harry.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Sort of looks like a complicated answer to a simple question. It also introduces a lot of room for errors. It is a pretty simple theory though. If you have a bolt that has 16 threads per inch. then it is moving 1/16th of an inch with each turn. A bolt or threaded rod with 8 threads per inch will move something 1/8 of an inch per turn. In this way you can select the exact thread you will need. So for a 3/4 inch box joint you could use a threaded rod with 8 TPI (Threads per inch) and then turn that rod 6 times for a movement of 3/4 inch total. The rest of the jig is just about holding the material and getting the sides off set to the ends. Don't forget that part. 

There are actually far simpler answers to this problem though.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

That is a beautiful jig. And yes, it is just as much the thrill of woodworking as it is beekeeping. I thought about building it, but that would be a real project.

As Daniel Y said, there is one more consideration for building bee boxes. You will need to raise or lower your box/dado, in order to make the two 3/8 inch cuts on the top ends of the sides that the front overlaps ( The rabbet joint overlap). 

Barry, you could build it, and then refine the plans for the rest of us. It is very very nice. cchoganjr


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## seal62 (Apr 17, 2011)

I loved the jig . What a great tool for the shop . Its a fantastic project for retired educator that works with wood . I sent him a link . The uses for that are endless . Thanks for the post .


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

seal62 said:


> Its a fantastic project for retired educator that works with wood .


Let me know if he wants to make a second set of gears while he is at it 



Cleo C. Hogan Jr said:


> You will need to raise or lower your box/dado, in order to make the two 3/8 inch cuts on the top ends of the sides that the front overlaps ( The rabbet joint overlap).


If I made the jig, it would be the least of my concerns.

Daniel Y - that actually makes a lot of sense. I didn't think of it that way. Without the gears, and getting a bolt that has 16 threads per inch, I could still make some rather accurate cuts. I think the gears just help make it more accurate. If I can get a 10 tooth gear on a 16 thread bolt, I can more accuratley do 1/2 bolt turns, or even 1/4 or less if done right. However, since the gears appear to be the most difficult part for me to make, it might be better to simplify it a little bit to ensure I can actually make it.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Daniel Y - The builder actually initially made a device that somewhat follows your explanation: http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/workshop/fingerjoint.html


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

If you have any interest in woodworking or tinkering at all you should look around that whole site. I found it several years ago while looking for potato cannon plans - Mathias called his a "product launcher." I'm pretty sure the products he was launching were blackberries. I think he's an engineer at REI.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Cleo C. Hogan Jr said:


> Barry, you could build it, and then refine the plans for the rest of us. It is very very nice. cchoganjr


I could, but I much prefer jigs like yours that are easy, simple, and get the job done, time after time.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

To say you could refine the plans is quite a claim . . .


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Is it? I'm sure my idea of refinement is different than yours.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

If I read the plans correctly, he is making box joints for something other than bee hives and supers. (Boxes, Drawers, etc.) Most box jointed objects do not also contain a rabbet overlap, and a half box joint cut to accommodate the rabbet. Bee hives do.

He must have quite a saw to cut all four pieces at one pass. That will surely put a load on most saws. 

I believe the plans would have to be refined for the average to below average woodworker to make it, and use it for bee equipment. But, it is a very, very, nice piece of equipment. I believe, geared more to fine furniture, than beekeeping. He is obviously a master woodworker.

For the average beekeeper/woodworker, a simple sled is easier to construct for making bee boxes.

cchoganjr


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Barry said:


> Is it? I'm sure my idea of refinement is different than yours.


I don't think so.

Merriam-Webster Dictionary's definition of "refine" (to be distingquished from "refinement," as "refine" was the original term), located at: http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/refine and confirmed at: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/refine



> re·fine verb \ri-ˈfīn\
> re·fined re·fin·ing
> 
> Definition of REFINE transitive verb
> ...


One can take the assumption we were not referring to removing the impurities in the wood, nor were we talking about removing moral impurities or sanding it down. A logical conclusion would be that we were talking about the intransitive verb, number 2 - "to make improvement by introducing subtleties or distinctions."

Our definitions are not different Barry. If you think you can improve a very complex item by ADDING (or introducing) distinctions, be my guest. There are several moving parts and several complex items. Adding anything to the jig would be impressive, hence my original post.

Removing items would not be "refining" anything, as it would be the subtraction of elements, not the introduction of anything.

Unless you have invented your own dictionary . . . or you misunderstood the word "refine" . . .


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

"3 : to improve or perfect by pruning"

Yep, that's what I'd do to refine it. Thanks for looking up the accepted definitions. :thumbsup:


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Here is what I am talkign about by much simpler. there are tons of variations on this basic concept.
http://www.azwoodman.com/creating-box-joints.html
basically if you can screw a board to your miter gauge attach a block of the appropriate size at the correct distance from the dado blade and set it all square to that blade. you are in business.

As for the need for the shallow notch at the end. Lets say you have a jig that cuts 3/4 X3/4 inch notches. and you need that last one only 3/8 inches deep/ take a scrap of 3/8 inch plywood and place it under the board. this raises it 3/8 inch. then make that last cut. nearly instant 3/8 inch adjustment to the depth of your cut.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Barry said:


> "3 : to improve or perfect by pruning"


Maybe you should quote the WHOLE selected definition, and not stop at the word you like.



> 3 : to improve or perfect by pruning or *polishing <refine a poetic style>*


According to Merriam-Webster Dictionary's. Or:



> 4. to make more fine, subtle, or precise: *to refine one's writing style. *


According to Dictionary.com.

Two readings of that phrase, or Dictionary.com's phrase which clarifies, would indicate that you either read it to mean that you were refining a poetic or writing style, or that you were pruning the item, pruning being a metaphor for polishing. I would take the stance that both were referring to a writing style, since both use the phrase in the definition and not as a sentence which further explains one possible use. Were you referring to a poetic style or a writing style when you said you could refine the jig? I hope not.

But, if you took a liberal reading of the definitions and ignored the language discussing refining writing style (which would be contrary to the definition), still neither dictionary defined refine as a way to "prune a tree" as you seem to indicate. Instead they use the term prune as a synonym with "polish" which was in the original definition, which you chose to leave out. To polish something does not mean to lop things off, or remove items at will. I'd give you the definition of polish so you could see it, but obviously you would just select words you like and not finish the sentence to see what it actually means.

Again . . .



Specialkayme said:


> Removing items would not be "refining" anything, as it would be the subtraction of elements, not the introduction of anything.


Removing items from a jig would also not be "refining" anything, according to your definition, because it would not be improving upon a poetic style, a writing style, nor would it be polishing and therefore improving upon anything. The subtraction of elements would not introduce anything, nor would it polish anything. It would simply remove the item, negating the possibility for you to polish anything.



Specialkayme said:


> . . . or you misunderstood the word "refine" . . .


Further down the rabbit hole . . . .

Thanks for misreading the accepted definition Barry :thumbsup:


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Daniel Y - Yes it is simpler, but it doesn't accomplish the same goal. For each type of finger you want to make, you need to make a different jig (not that it is that hard). Each time you need to make sure that you are not off by "0.001" as the article you provided indicates.

If all you want to do is make fingers for beekeeping equipment, this is over-rated (as was previously mentioned). But if you want to make different finger joints, with different size fingers, on various types of wood, the amount of jigs you would need would be space consuming.


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

...polishing always involves.the REMOVAL of material....sometimes.removing physical marks (like sanding or filing lines) and sometimes just removing oxidized or dirty material....but it is always about removing material.

Deknow


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Daniel Y.....The board is a good idea that I am going to try today. I have made thousands of boxes over the years and never thought of something that simple. I leave the board in the sled and turn the crank handle three and 1/4 turns down, make the cuts, ( four of them) then turn the blade back up 3 1/4 turns. 


I don't believe most hobbiest saws will spin a 3/4 inch dado and cut through 4 boards at each pass. I think this would take a much nicer saw with much more horsepower.

That is what I like about this forum. No one has all the answers to all things, bees or woodworking. Knowledge is gained through sharing. cchoganjr


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Special, do you really think that the design in the OP is adjustable to within 0.001 of an inch. there is not going to be that much run out in the mechanics of that jig? There will be more play than that between the fit of a bolt and a nut. I realize woodworkers claim this amazing 0.001 accuracy all the time. It sounds impressive. IN reality they cannot come even close to producing it. I seldom see work that is within 0.01 of accuracy. I can do work that is within 0.003 on my metal lathe. There are claims and then there is reality.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Very true, Daniel. You would be hard put to have more consistent accuracy with a jig that has moving parts (gears and threads) than you would with a fixed index like the jig you linked to.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

Some people are gadget freaks! That is not to be derogatory. I have made quite a few myself and spent a number of hours going over the site and even printed out a few of the gear templates. It is a slick gadget. One thing I have found generally true though is that when you attempt to make an item do everything it starts to do many of them poorly or induces time loss in loading unloading. If you are going to do high parts count the transition time must be quick. Accuracy should be no more than adequate as it always has costs. These are bee boxes not "art form" jewellery boxes!

cchoganjr makes a good point about the horsepower needed to pulverize all that volume of wood to be removed from the multiple dadoes. I like the appearance of the finger joint box but have made enough of both to come to the conclusion that the rabbetted boxes are far more efficient for me.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

If you do a search on box joint jigs you will find directions to make one that is adjustable for virtually any width finger and space tolerance so you do not have to make one for each pitch.

I space over 5/8" to make a partial first finger full length and then nip that one to 3/8 long to fit the frame rest ledge. With the rest of the fingers and spaces 1" it works out nicely on either 9 5/8 or 6 5/8 box heights.

Edit; wrong picture. That is the hard way to accommodate the frame rest finger.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

I use this one, but I'm going to make a sliding table version that uses both miter gauge slots.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

deknow said:


> ...polishing always involves.the REMOVAL of material....


Not true. Sanding or filing always involves removing material, but polishing does not. Sometimes polishing involves the ADDITION of material to provide a smooth surface.

One thought that comes to mine is polishing shoes. I add shoe polish, then rub it smooth. I ADD the polish, I don't REMOVE the shoe leather.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Daniel Y said:


> Special, do you really think that the design in the OP is adjustable to within 0.001 of an inch.


Probably not. But my guess is you can make 10 different types of box joints with that design with just as much, if not less play than if you made 10 separate, non-adjustable jigs. All in all, it would be much less time consuming to go with the adjustable one.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Barry said:


> You would be hard put to have more consistent accuracy with a jig that has moving parts (gears and threads) than you would with a fixed index like the jig you linked to.


I think a distinction needs to be made here. Everyone is suggesting a simple, fixed box joint jig. I know they exist. But the point of this thread was not to discuss BOX JOINT JIGS GENERALLY, but to discuss ADJUSTABLE BOX JOINT JIGS. 

If you think you lose something in this adjustable jig that you wouldn't in a fixed one, feel free to discuss it. For example, if you think a fixed one can provide greater accuracy. But it doesn't accomplish the same goal. A fixed one provides ONE finger joint size. An adjustable one provides an INFINITE number of finger joint sizes. Different tools for different uses. 

I'll say it again: if you want to make bee boxes only, the right tool is a fixed jig. If you want to adjust the box joint and use a jig for multiple occasions, a different tool is required.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

A distinction needs to be made that this is a beekeeping forum and we talk about everything as it relates to beekeeping.


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

...I was.thinking about the case with shoes. The stuff called "shoe Polish" is really a wax filler...applaying it is like applying bono to a.dent, or spackle to a.crack in the wall.
when you actually Polish the shoe, you are.both smooshing in the wax that has already been applied and polishing the surface by removing the excess. Crack filling and polishing are separate steps. If polishing did not remove material, none would end up on the rag. Smoothing a surface with force without removing material is burnishing.
Deknow


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Barry..Daniel... I don't have a clue as to the accuracy of my index pin, sled, dado box joint cutter, But, over time and use, the index pin may get slightly off and it has to be adjusted. Moving the index pin the thickness of one sheet of typing paper, will make a difference in how loose or how tight the box joints are. For anyone who has worked with box joints you will know, if you are off just a small fraction on your first cut, by the time you finish the six cuts on a deep super, the box will not fit together very well. Either too tight or too loose. If you have moving parts, I would think it would be more difficult to hold these tolerences.

I made my first box joint cutter from the plans like Daniel linked to. But, it tied up my miter gauge,( and at that time I only had one table saw) (I now have seven, with each saw dedicated to one, or two cuts, And I never move the fence on any of them) and I found that building a sled is (I believe, possibly, more stable because you have two points of contact, the two miter grooves in the saw table, that the sled moves in, Vrs the one, when using the miter gauge with the index pin attached to it.

You don't have to make a new sled, (or miter gauge box joint cutter) for each size you want to make. You only have to "C" clamp a spacer block to the sled stop to vary where the board will touch or overlap the index pin.

But what do I know, I AM NOT a cabinet maker. I just enjoy woodworking during the winter months, and I use the time to help out with bee equipment for the next year.

Anyone close to Park City Ky, and would like to see how I make them, or anything about my bees, if you are traveling I-65 Exit 48, I will happily show anyone all my operations. I enjoy helping anyone I can.

cchoganjr


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

Barry said:


> A distinction needs to be made that this is a beekeeping forum and we talk about everything as it relates to beekeeping.


A further distinction needs to be made that it is physically possible to discuss something as it relates to beekeeping WHILE AT THE SAME TIME discussing it's applications to non-beekeeping items.

If you want to talk about a truck that you bought and use for beekeeping as well as hauling your lawnmower, you can. Last time I checked, the forum wasn't restricted to the use of an item for ONLY it's beekeeping applications.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

deknow said:


> If polishing did not remove material, none would end up on the rag.


But the polishing process involves both adding material, then removing PART of that same material. In the end you add material.

You can't call the process of polishing ONLY removing some of the material. That isn't accurate.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Specialkayme said:


> Sometimes polishing involves the ADDITION of material to provide a smooth surface.
> 
> One thought that comes to mine is polishing shoes. I add shoe polish, then rub it smooth. I ADD the polish, I don't REMOVE the shoe leather.


Polish is in fact an abrasive and is removing material. I think what you have in mind would be more along the line of waxing. I turn, sand, buff and polish wood. I then coat it with a protective wax called Renaissance wax to protect it from finger prints. Even then the wax is then polished which is again removing material. Even the polish you use to shine up your care is an abrasive. It is at a microscopic scale so you do not see the scratch pattern. but it is actually the scratches that are causing the shine.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Specialkayme said:


> But the point of this thread was not to discuss BOX JOINT JIGS GENERALLY, but to discuss ADJUSTABLE BOX JOINT JIGS.


I posted the link earlier as an example of the basic concept. I also pointed out that the basic concept has many variations. Several of those are fully adjustable. Others have already pointed that out. I was more interested in demonstrating that the original jig had gone from a fairly easy concept to including a lot of over the top design elements. More of a jig makers dream than a hive makers.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

:shhhh: Don't wake the sleeping dog. It just went to sleep.


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

The gears on the jig in the first post gave me so many ideas I really have to thank specialK for that. I also realized how much easier my life would be if I made a sled for cutting the rabbets in my hive body parts. Think Ill make a sled for machining top bars too. I don't really ever make box joints, but if i ever do, i see the screw advance box joint jig in my future. Now excuse me because I am going to go make some gears that will go in a jig which will let me make more accurate gears, but i have to buy plywood and dowels first.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

The sled works nice for top bars; with the correct thickness lift spacers you can do bottom and side dados without changing depth adj. of blade.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

rwurster... you are soooooo right. cchoganjr


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

rwurster said:


> Now excuse me because I am going to go make some gears that will go in a jig which will let me make more accurate gears, but i have to buy plywood and dowels first.


Let me know how it goes. Make a thread on it if you would. I'm very interested in the progression, as this is the one item that could make or break me.

Do you have a drill press and a bandsaw, or are you doing it more low-tech?

What type of plywood are you going with?


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

One of those is definitely in my future crofter  very cool and simple. Ill start on one tomorrow


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Cleo, On your earlier post about just a little movement one way or the other effecting how the joint fits. THis has actually crossed my mind several times during this thread. Until now I have chosen to not even bring it up. Sort of let anyone figure it out on their own rather than risking stirring the pot. It also goes back to the 0.001 tolerances thing. IN short you don't even want your joints that tight even if you could make them that exact. A quick way to see this for yourself is to take any piece of dowel. drill a hole in a piece of wood the same size as the dowel. 1/2 inch hole for a 1/2 inch dowel for example. now try to fit the dowel in the hole. Given that thievery worked normally the dowel will fit. But you will probably have to hammer it in. Getting your finger joints to exact will do the same thing.

So this leaves the question. How close is close enough. Or put another way. How far off do you really want a good joint to be. This is subject to personal preference to some degree. one person will say a joint is just right while the next may call it to sloppy. I do have some experience making other things that required a slip fit in order for the object to work properly. basically this meant that the space was correct when the item worked, this eliminates the opinion factor. In that case I found the correct space to be 0.03 inches. This allowed a snug slip fit. 0.03 inches is about the thickness of a piece of copier paper by the way. This would confirm Your observation of moving your jig about that distance and seeing a difference.

I wanted to add this info because I would not want to see someone go to all the effort of making a perfect jig and then find out you can't fit the joints together. It woudl tend to give the jigs a bad name among this group. One that is not deserved. I also suspect there are many out there just reading that will attempt to make one of these. and many will find problems with them. the more info they have the more likely they will solve those problems.

The slop you want in your jig you really don't have to try and make. Most of you will already be using equipment that has that much run out and error anyway. Just don't go the other way and spend all weekend trying to get that exact perfect cut. Not only do you not need it, you don't want it.

Otherwise fancy or simple, that is up to the person making it and how much fun they find in making complex things from wood. 

I understand that the issue of precision may seem pointless and funny to some. To me it is something I have spent thousands of dollars to be able to achieve. I don't take the issue lightly any more than most of your would take queen rearing. You don't make gears in order to produce precision work. You buy them and they are extremely expensive. I have one tool that is machined to produce accuracies of 0.01 inch. it cost 20 dollars or so. I have the exact same tool that is machined for accuracies of 0.001. it cost several hundred dollars. Due to the limitations of other parts of my equipment I still only get 0.003 of accuracy. I am perfectly aware of the general thinking concerning accuracy. I am also very well aware of the reality of them. Go ahead and spend the money to get a tolerance of 0.001, then find out you can't fit your boxes together. expensive lesson but the good thing about expensive lessons is they are not soon forgotten. DAMHOKT


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

Daniel, I agree with what you are getting at but I think you might have one of your decimal points off one space. There are places where minimal tolerances and tight fit are essential; if not they are a hindrance. The features of that screw leade box joint jig would be nice for making small precision box joints of various sizes but does not exactly lend itself to quick and dirty, coarse and functional box joints on hive bodies!


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

I might add that a joint that seems perfect when dry can swell almost immediately with the application of glue, and become very difficult to get together without damage. 

I enjoy the occasional fine wood project as much as the next dilettante but one of the best things about bee keeping woodenware is that it's *not* precision work. I try to save up my OCD for things that my kids can fight over when I'm gone.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Daniel Y... I don't know about others, and yes it is a matter of personal preference, but here is what I shoot for. I want the joints to be tight enough that it takes a little pressure pushing them together, but, not enough pressure that you have to have a rubber hammer to put them together. I glue all my joints, and that is why I don't want them super tight. If you don't glue, you might want them a little tighter. I don't want them so loose that paint will not cover them smoothly and still leave the joints open. I think this would invite rot to begin at that point.

If my joints start to get too loose, or too tight, I move the index pin about the thickness of one or two pages of typing paper. By moving the index pin you can loosen or tighten the joints.

I am not a cabinet maker, but really, bee hives and supers are not fine furniture. Still, you want them nice and functional.

This thread has been very enlightening.

cchoganjr


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

You can laugh, but I use a pre WWI Kearny and Trecker Milwaukee Horizontal mill and a .750 end mill for making my box joints. I line up 20 pieces, flip the feed lever, and walk away. At the end of the pass, I lower the knee 1.50 and take another pass. Slow but accurate. Hope to build a CNC version soon.

Crazy Roland


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Is that one of them there machines that fills up a whole room?!


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

No, but they can. Mine has the footprint of a Bridgeport, and has proven it's self quite handy. I use the Bridgeport as a shaper, to make 3/8 tongue and groove for roofs and innercovers. 

Crazy Roland


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

Hard to imagine anything made now still being in use next century.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

That is why I rarely buy any large piece of equipment that was made after the 60's. I have a 1956 beetle that should still be running in 2056.

Crazy Roland


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