# Hive volume



## balhanapi (Aug 22, 2006)

I was reading Marty Hardison on Top bar hives, he says 76 Liters is the optimum volume in New Mexico and that it should be less if you go north and more if you are in the tropics.

I was wondering what would be an adequate volume in northern climates?


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## JensLarsen (Mar 14, 2007)

*Follower board*

A lot of folks here use a follower board to decrease the volume over winter. I made two with bee space beneath for each tbh.

Mine are 100 litre (750x400x340 HxWxD mm), this gives space for 23 top bars (32 mm). I would consider this a minimum.


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## balhanapi (Aug 22, 2006)

Thanks JensLarsen, I was thinking of making a long hive 800x500x300 that would take langstroth deep frames. (for interchangeability) and it will be exactly twice as long as a regular langstroth 10 frame hive body so it can be supered also if needed. Volume can be controlled with a follower board, you are right. It is 12inches deep i.e 3 inches deeper than langstroth. idea is borrowed from  Bee Wrangler 
Idea is to manage it horizontally most of the time.

Is it a good idea folks? will it work? or will a hive thrice the length of a 8 frame lansgtroth (42 inches) work better?
Thanks in advance


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## JensLarsen (Mar 14, 2007)

I like your thinking, I am on the *exact* same track using the same source. I have the option to go for shorter top bars and still maintain national compability (Sweden). Dennis has some writing on small cell distribution that made me sure higher comb is a good thing. 

http://picasaweb.google.com/MrJensLarsen/TBHTopBarHiveComboOne

Edit:
Sorry for the confusion, on the original pictures I use standard frames but the intention is to use top bars. Today I added the pictures showing the same hive with top bars before I moved it to the bee yard and introduced bees.


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## GB (Mar 5, 2005)

Nice pictures, but I think it's just a long hive rather than a top bar hive. 

I'm under the impression that a top bar hive is just that, no frame, and a tapered hive body that discourages bees from attaching to the sides.


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## balhanapi (Aug 22, 2006)

Okay! I have saved your pics earlier JensLarsen, didn't know I was talking to the person who made that hive  he he Nice hive I like it.

GB, Yes it is a long hive but I think it is a hybrid b/w a vertical hive and a top bar hive. It has all the advantages of a top bar hive ( natural comb no heavy lifting etc) and it does not have the drawbacks like comb collapse and attachment of comb to the sides. And it has the advantage of being managed vertically if need arises like if you don't have time to harvest honey and the bees need more space.. 
I like the idea. 
Regarding the volume I think a hive 12 inches deep 20 inches wide and 42 inches long would be adequate for our area. It being equivalent to four 10 frame deep hive bodies. thats the max volume on an average so it would hardly need to be supered. The volume can always be reduced by a follower board when the bees need less space eg in winter..


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## TigerLily (Apr 11, 2007)

We just went to one of Marty's classes where he taught us how to build one. We live in Colorado and he used the same one from New Mexico. Colorado isn't as far north,though.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

The taper makes the comb a bit more able to support itself. It doesn't make any difference I can see on attachments on the sides. Attachments on the sides aren't that big of a problem either way. There are seldom many, and tou just have to cut them the first time and they seldom rebuild them.


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## balhanapi (Aug 22, 2006)

Nice hive JensLarsen, looks cool on its actual stand Add bees ASAp and post those pictures too!


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