# FGMO Thymol Fogging



## iddee (Jun 21, 2005)

I sent you a PM.


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## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

I fog with thymol. 

By my own assessment, counting mites on a sticky board (very tedious), with untreated control hives, I did not find the results I had hoped for with fogging staight canola oil.

Keith Delaplane prefers botanical oils (canola) as opposed to the petroleum (mineral oil). That's my rationale, but I would guess FGMO would work as well.

So I beefed up my canola oil with 1.5 ounces of thymol crystals (measured with a digial postal scale). There are 30 ounces by weight in a quart of canola oil. This amounts to 5% thymol if my math is correct.

I fill a quart jar about 1/2 full of canola oil. Add in the thymol crystals. I heat the oil in the microwave (best if done when wife is away for several hours) for about a minute, or at least until most of the crystals are mostly dissolved. You don't have to microwave it until they are all completely dissolved. Leave the door open to the microwave to let it air out.

To this mixture I add two tablespoons of each of the following essential oils:

eucalyptus
tea tree
patchouli
wintergreen

Two tablespoons of each amounts roughly to 1% of each of them. I selected them for their anti-fungal and anti-viral qualities. After all, it's the viruses that the mites vector that kills the bees, or so I'm told.

After add in the four oils, I fill the quart jar to the top with room-temperature oil, screw on the lid and let it cool.

This is the thymol blend that works for me.

Grant
Jackson, MO


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## jean-marc (Jan 13, 2005)

*Thymol fogging*

Grant :

How often and when do you fog?

Jean-Marc


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## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

I try and fog every seven to ten days, but in reality it works to about every two weeks. I don't think fogging once is enough.

Grant
Jackson, MO


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## jean-marc (Jan 13, 2005)

*Thymol fogging*

Grant:

So how many hives can you fog with the quart of mixture if they are doubles? I suppose twice as many if they are singles and 4 times more if they are 5 frame nucs.
Thanks for the input.

Jean-Marc


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## Dr. Pedro Rodriguez (Feb 5, 2002)

*FGMO/Thymol fogging*

Hello folks.
I e-mailed Barry a copy of my FGMO/thymol protocol for the use of this mixture for the treatment of honey bee mites. I hope that Barry will approve posting it on Beesource.com.
I have been testing this formula since 1993, way long before anyone (that has been published) has attempted to do. During all these years I have made repeated different trials to finally arrive at a formula that works. I have been saying that I have mite free colonies in Virginia and in Spain. I also have asked those who might wish to "see for themselves" to visit and see my colonies. I have promised to send photos to Beesource and I will as soon as I have them transferred to my PC. 
I have written many times (published in Beesource and ABJ) about the do´s and don`ts of oils in your operation. Yes, I have used oils and fats other than FGMO and found out that FGMO is far superior than vegetable oils. The main reason is that vegetable oils oxidize, deteriorate and leave bad odors in your hives. I am sure that most of us have smelled rancid fats or oils at one time or another. I am afraid that bad odors from rancid oils may transfer to the honey and wax. Think about it. 
Also, I have known that those who deviate from the established procedure tend to have less than optimum results (as told to me by some of them and in the forum). It is okay to experiment, but why would one like to stray away from what has been proven to be safe and effective? Please take this into consideration. 
I will be glad to e-mail the protocol to those who ask for it.
Have a blessed day.
Dr. Rodriguez


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## Chef Isaac (Jul 26, 2004)

I would like a copy of it. Please sne to [email protected]

thank you in advance.


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## DennisB (May 30, 2007)

I would appreciate a copy as well. Please email to [email protected]


Thanks
Dennis


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## Dr. Pedro Rodriguez (Feb 5, 2002)

*fgmo/thymol fogging*

Hello folks.
I have sent copies of my FGMO/thymol protocol to those who have asked for them.
Any others please let me know and I will be glad to send them.
Have a blessed day and God bless.
Dr. Rodriguez


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## Jeffzhear (Dec 2, 2006)

Pedro, 
I would appreciate a copy also. Thanks in advance.


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## Little John_NC (Nov 20, 2005)

*FGMO/Thymol fogging*

I would appreciate a copy as well. Thanks Dr. Rodriguez !! [email protected]


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## Reed Honey (Mar 3, 2005)

I also would like a copy .. [email protected] Thanks !!


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## flw50 (Jan 31, 2007)

I also would like a copy [email protected]


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## suprstakr (Feb 10, 2006)

Me too please....... [email protected]


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## hzxlvf (Aug 31, 2006)

Please...Thankyou! [email protected]


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## Jeffzhear (Dec 2, 2006)

It might have helped if I put my email address down: [email protected]


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## Tommy (Oct 9, 2005)

I need a copy also!
[email protected]


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## Ski (Jan 18, 2007)

I would also very much like a copy.
Thank you
[email protected]


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## Dr. Pedro Rodriguez (Feb 5, 2002)

*copies of FGMO/thymol protocol*

They are on the way fellows.
Remember, please send me your e-mails if you wish copies.
God bless.
Dr. Rodriguez


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## Little John_NC (Nov 20, 2005)

*FGMO/Thymol fogging*

Got my copy Thanks Dr. Pedro Rodriguez


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## Dr. Pedro Rodriguez (Feb 5, 2002)

*residue testing*

Hello folks.
I have performed gas chromatography tests on wax and honey for residues in combs from hives in which FGMO/thymol had been used during three years prior to testing. No residues of either were found in the tests. I believe that tests requested by my dear friend Clinton Benrose had similar objectives as mine did. His results were posted on Beesource.com. 
In 1993 I bought several hives from a fellow beekeeper in Virginia and found old fluvalinate strips between the brood frames. I discarded those frames, comb, brood and honey included and started my FGMO/thymol trials with fresh combs. Those combs were later destroyed (all of them) due to comtamination with pesticides applied by the goverment seeking to destroy mosquitos. Subsequently I started anew using fresh equipment and new bee packages. 
I have never applied any other type of control for bee mites except FGMO/thymol. 
Have a blessed day.
Dr. Rodriguez


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## Flyman (Jun 11, 2007)

I would appreciate a copy as [email protected]

Thanks


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## Tommy (Oct 9, 2005)

Still looking for my copy. [email protected]


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## Charles Roberts (Jun 30, 2007)

May I have a copy?

Thank you for all your good work.

[email protected]

Charles


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## suprstakr (Feb 10, 2006)

coppy would be nice [email protected]


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## Black Creek (May 19, 2006)

*me too*

i'd love to read over it. [email protected]


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## RdnckBkpr (Oct 8, 2006)

*FGMO/Thymol protocol*

I'd like a copy also. Thanks in advance. [email protected]


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## John Cunningham (Jan 24, 2005)

I would like the FGMO/thymol protocol also. Send to [email protected]
Thank you


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

Put me on your list also. Thanks.
[email protected]


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## JBJ (Jan 27, 2005)

Dr R, why not just post them here?


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## jeannie (Dec 26, 2006)

*copy of protcol*

Dr. R,
Could I please get a copy of the protcol. [email protected]
Thank you so much


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## iddee (Jun 21, 2005)

Dr. Pedro Rodriguez said:


> Hello folks.
> I e-mailed Barry a copy of my FGMO/thymol protocol for the use of this mixture for the treatment of honey bee mites. I hope that Barry will approve posting it on Beesource.com.
> Dr. Rodriguez



Barry, has this been posted on Beesource?


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

iddee said:


> Barry, has this been posted on Beesource?


Sorry, never got it. Didn't know he tried. Pedro, send again.

- Barry


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## crazy diamond (Mar 18, 2004)

I also would like a copy of FGMO protocol: [email protected]


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## SCBeeBrewer (Mar 17, 2007)

*FMGO / Thymol Fogging*

Dr. Rodriguez,

I would love to have a copy of your protocol.

[email protected]

Thank you,

Steve


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## shepherd (Feb 1, 2006)

I would appreciate a copy as well - [email protected] - thanks -


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## AnthonyBermani (Sep 7, 2006)

Could I please have a copy

[email protected]

thank you


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## allrawpaul (Jun 7, 2004)

I would also appreciate a copy of the protocol, Dr Rodrigues. Thank you for your dedicated research and for sharing your mite-control system! Paul. Please send to [email protected]


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## Flyman (Jun 11, 2007)

Could you please forward a copy to me also.... [email protected]

Thanks for you dedication


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## Ski (Jan 18, 2007)

I have not received the protocol from Dr. Rodriguez and it has been a few weeks. IF any one else has received the protocol would you please send me a copy.
Thanks in advance,

[email protected]


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## suprstakr (Feb 10, 2006)

Me Too


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## AnthonyBermani (Sep 7, 2006)

It has been a week for me too, could someone please forward a copy to me at 

[email protected]


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## allrawpaul (Jun 7, 2004)

Same here. [email protected]


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## Tommy (Oct 9, 2005)

Been a month here! [email protected]


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

Very interesting. 

Did ANYONE receive the protocol ???


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

*FGMO-THYMOL FORMULA FOR CORDS AND BURGESS FOGGER**
(Do not use thymol in your formula with honey supers on)*
The purpose of the FGMO-Thymol for these formulae is to obtain a concentration of thymol no higher than 5.49% thymol for the fogger and 2.53% thymol for the emulsion soaked cords.
Emulsion soaked cords
1000 cc mineral oil @ 0.86 density
(*) (860 grams (30.34 oz.))
100 grams (3.53 oz.) thymol
1000 grams honey (2-1/4 pounds)
1000 grams beeswax (2-1/4 pounds)
100 pieces of cotton cord (40 inches long each)
Add the weight of the ingredients without the cords
Divide into 100 grams thymol

Thus:
100 = 2.53 % thymol
3960 total weight

Fogger
1000 cc mineral oil @ 0.86 density
(*) (860 grams (30.34 oz.))
50 grams (1.76 oz.) thymol
Add the weight of above
Divide into 50 grams thymol

Thus:
50 = 5.49 % thymol
910 total weight

(*) 1000 cc of FGMO of 0.86 density weighs 860 grams
Remove 100 cc FGMO from 1000 cc to dilute thymol. See instructions below.


*Instructions for* *diluting thymol
*These instructions replace previous instructions for dilution of thymol with alcohol. Even though alcohol utilized for dilution of the thymol evaporates readily, I wish to dismiss potential offenses to millions of brothers in faith who oppose use of alcohol. The new formulae are not only more cost-effective and not offensive to non-alcohol consumers, but also easier to prepare minimizing the risk of adding a flammable agent to the formula.


*Instructions for making dilution for the fogger*
Remove 100 cc FGMO from the 1000 cc intended for mixture. Place 100 cc FGMO in a mason jar. Add 50 grams thymol for fogger and 100 grams for emulsion cords, and secure cup tightly. Place a metal container filled with water (e.g. cooking ware) on a heat source. Place glass jar with the 100 cc FGMO and thymol in the water of the heating vessel. Swish/swirl jar as the water heats up until thymol dissolves completely. Solution will become slightly amber in color (normal change). The solution is now ready to add to the rest of the FGMO intended for use in the fogger or the cords.


*Instructions for making FGMO-thymol emulsion
*Place 900 cc FGMO in a metal or ceramic container and place container over a heat source. Allow oil to heat. Add 1000 grams (2-1/4 pounds) beeswax and stir well until wax is totally melted. Remove container from heat source. Add 1000 grams (2-1/4 pounds honey) and stir well until it blends into wax-FGMO mixture. Add 100 cc FGMO-thymol mixture previously diluted as per instructions above. Add cords immediately and stir until they are well soaked with the solution. Pack cords in a tightly sealed container and store in a cool place. Your emulsion-soaked cords will be ready to use as soon as the emulsion cools.


*Instructions for making FGMO-thymol mixture for fogger
*Add 100 cc FGMO-thymol mixture (obtained as per instructions above for diluting thymol) to 900 cc FGMO (remainder of the 1000 cc needed) and shake well. This will result in a 5.49 % FGMO-thymol solution. Fill your fogger container. You are now ready to fog. Set fogger on a level, steady surface. Turn gas valve to the left 1/4 turn. Listen for a slight hissing sound from your fogger. Light your fogger from underneath (I recommend using a butane stove lighter for this purpose). Wait. You should notice a drop or two of oil dripping from the spout of the fogger. Next, you should notice a small emission of oil mist similar to that of a lit cigarette. Next, the fogger will emit a larger puff of oil mist. The fogger is now ready for fogging. Holding the fogger parallel to the ground, point the nozzle directly at your hive entrance. DO NOT AIM THE FOGGER DOWNWARD! Place a tray or shield below the hive if you use screen-bottom boards to direct flow of mist into the hive. Pull the trigger of the fogger 3-4 times, while you count 1001, 1002, 1003, and 1004, depending on the population size of your hives. When fogging, please wear a respirator for safety reasons. Never add any other ingredient to your fogger when following this procedure. Do not use foggers that may have been used for spraying pesticides previously. Residues from the insecticide may have remained imbedded in the container. These residues would then be transferred to your FGMO-thymol solution and result in probable bee kills.


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## Ski (Jan 18, 2007)

Sundance,
Did you receive this from Dr. R per the recent request or get it from the beesource web site or somewhere else?
I would just like to make sure this is the latest and greatest info. Maybe it hasn't changed much from the start but once again just want to make sure before I start down the road.


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

This was posted on the BeeSource site before Dr R quit and asked it to be pulled down.

As far as changes........... I doubt that much has changed.


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## Ski (Jan 18, 2007)

Sundance,
Thanks for posting the info from the web site. Maybe Dr. R has not changed anything but assuming has gotten me into trouble in the past. So I am asking that IF anyone has received the E-mail From Dr. R please, post it or pass it on to one of the moderators or myself so we can put an end to all the guessing and we can rest assured that we all have the latest info.
Thanks,
Ski


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## deantn (Jan 3, 2007)

Ski said:


> Sundance,
> Thanks for posting the info from the web site. Maybe Dr. R has not changed anything but assuming has gotten me into trouble in the past. So I am asking that IF anyone has received the E-mail From Dr. R please, post it or pass it on to one of the moderators or myself so we can put an end to all the guessing and we can rest assured that we all have the latest info.
> Thanks,
> Ski


I'd like to also see the proper way to administer this application of thymol.
No need to try and kill our bees as other things are already doing it for us without our help.


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## allrawpaul (Jun 7, 2004)

What do you do with the cords? How thick is the cord?


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

Do as you wish regarding the "recipe". I and many others have been using this fogging ratio for a couple of years (others more) with no problems. If there are updates great, but until then this mix is what works for me.

The cords are placed on top of the frames over the brood nest. I do not use them myself.


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## Ski (Jan 18, 2007)

I used the fogging method with the above formula and help from an experienced beekeeper but I think I need to add the cords to get better results. Just wanted to make sure we had the latest info. I copied the info that Dr. R had posted on beesource if thats all there is then thats all there is. 
Thanks for your patience.


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## Ski (Jan 18, 2007)

Allrawpaul,
I found this info. maybe its the latest. You may want to google Dr. R's name, maybe there is additional info out there.
Food grade mineral oil applied in fog form with a Burgess Propane fogger and with cords soaked in a food grade mineral oil emulsion applied once a month.

.6132 inch upholster's welt cord 


100 sections one meter long x 5mm each cotton cords (or 6/32 in. welt cords)


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## iddee (Jun 21, 2005)

.6132, I think, is nearly 5/8. A commercial cotton string mop works fine. I think that is what Dr. R recommended in the beginning. It is approx. 1/4 to 3/8.

As Sundance said, Dr. R had a working formula when he wrote the above protocol. If it has been added to, fine, but I do not think it has. Until it is, the one above works. That's what is important to me.

The only change I think has been made, and I'm not sure about, so correct me if I'm wrong, but I think he now says you can fog with honey supers on.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Has ANYONE received the article from Dr. R?


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## iddee (Jun 21, 2005)

Little John says he did.




Little John_NC said:


> Got my copy Thanks Dr. Pedro Rodriguez


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Little John_NC said:


> Got my copy Thanks Dr. Pedro Rodriguez


Please send me a copy ([email protected])

Thanks.


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## Little John_NC (Nov 20, 2005)

*Barry*

I got it but its in jpeg ....Looks like it the same as Sundance posted........John


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Is it the American Bee Journal - March, 2004 article called:

FGMO-Thymol Application Improved For Varroa Mite Control


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## Little John_NC (Nov 20, 2005)

*Barry*

I dont have that issue........but at the bottom of the article it is dated March 2004. How do you attach a jpeg to this ?


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## Little John_NC (Nov 20, 2005)

*Emailed it to Barry NT*

its on the way let me know if you get it ..........


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## the kid (Nov 26, 2006)

I would like to have your formula for fogging as beeing new to bee keeping ... I look frword to any and all help .. ...... [email protected] .....is from and those like it have been a great help
the kid


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## iddee (Jun 21, 2005)

Kid, check reply #47 in this thread. Sundance posted the formula there.

Edited to add....And again here.


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

*FGMO-THYMOL FORMULA FOR CORDS AND BURGESS FOGGER**
(Do not use thymol in your formula with honey supers on)*
The purpose of the FGMO-Thymol for these formulae is to obtain a concentration of thymol no higher than 5.49% thymol for the fogger and 2.53% thymol for the emulsion soaked cords.
Emulsion soaked cords
1000 cc mineral oil @ 0.86 density
(*) (860 grams (30.34 oz.))
100 grams (3.53 oz.) thymol
1000 grams honey (2-1/4 pounds)
1000 grams beeswax (2-1/4 pounds)
100 pieces of cotton cord (40 inches long each)
Add the weight of the ingredients without the cords
Divide into 100 grams thymol

Thus:
100 = 2.53 % thymol
3960 total weight

Fogger
1000 cc mineral oil @ 0.86 density
(*) (860 grams (30.34 oz.))
50 grams (1.76 oz.) thymol
Add the weight of above
Divide into 50 grams thymol

Thus:
50 = 5.49 % thymol
910 total weight

(*) 1000 cc of FGMO of 0.86 density weighs 860 grams
Remove 100 cc FGMO from 1000 cc to dilute thymol. See instructions below.


*Instructions for* *diluting thymol
*These instructions replace previous instructions for dilution of thymol with alcohol. Even though alcohol utilized for dilution of the thymol evaporates readily, I wish to dismiss potential offenses to millions of brothers in faith who oppose use of alcohol. The new formulae are not only more cost-effective and not offensive to non-alcohol consumers, but also easier to prepare minimizing the risk of adding a flammable agent to the formula.


*Instructions for making dilution for the fogger*
Remove 100 cc FGMO from the 1000 cc intended for mixture. Place 100 cc FGMO in a mason jar. Add 50 grams thymol for fogger and 100 grams for emulsion cords, and secure cup tightly. Place a metal container filled with water (e.g. cooking ware) on a heat source. Place glass jar with the 100 cc FGMO and thymol in the water of the heating vessel. Swish/swirl jar as the water heats up until thymol dissolves completely. Solution will become slightly amber in color (normal change). The solution is now ready to add to the rest of the FGMO intended for use in the fogger or the cords.


*Instructions for making FGMO-thymol emulsion
*Place 900 cc FGMO in a metal or ceramic container and place container over a heat source. Allow oil to heat. Add 1000 grams (2-1/4 pounds) beeswax and stir well until wax is totally melted. Remove container from heat source. Add 1000 grams (2-1/4 pounds honey) and stir well until it blends into wax-FGMO mixture. Add 100 cc FGMO-thymol mixture previously diluted as per instructions above. Add cords immediately and stir until they are well soaked with the solution. Pack cords in a tightly sealed container and store in a cool place. Your emulsion-soaked cords will be ready to use as soon as the emulsion cools.


*Instructions for making FGMO-thymol mixture for fogger
*Add 100 cc FGMO-thymol mixture (obtained as per instructions above for diluting thymol) to 900 cc FGMO (remainder of the 1000 cc needed) and shake well. This will result in a 5.49 % FGMO-thymol solution. Fill your fogger container. You are now ready to fog. Set fogger on a level, steady surface. Turn gas valve to the left 1/4 turn. Listen for a slight hissing sound from your fogger. Light your fogger from underneath (I recommend using a butane stove lighter for this purpose). Wait. You should notice a drop or two of oil dripping from the spout of the fogger. Next, you should notice a small emission of oil mist similar to that of a lit cigarette. Next, the fogger will emit a larger puff of oil mist. The fogger is now ready for fogging. Holding the fogger parallel to the ground, point the nozzle directly at your hive entrance. DO NOT AIM THE FOGGER DOWNWARD! Place a tray or shield below the hive if you use screen-bottom boards to direct flow of mist into the hive. Pull the trigger of the fogger 3-4 times, while you count 1001, 1002, 1003, and 1004, depending on the population size of your hives. When fogging, please wear a respirator for safety reasons. Never add any other ingredient to your fogger when following this procedure. Do not use foggers that may have been used for spraying pesticides previously. Residues from the insecticide may have remained imbedded in the container. These residues would then be transferred to your FGMO-thymol solution and result in probable bee kills.


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## Ski (Jan 18, 2007)

Dr. Pedro Rodriguez wrote earlier in this thread:
Also, I have known that those who deviate from the established procedure tend to have less than optimum results (as told to me by some of them and in the forum). It is okay to experiment, but why would one like to stray away from what has been proven to be safe and effective? Please take this into consideration. 

Ski writes:
It seems that all of the procedures are the same; the one from the ABJ march 2004 issue (received my back issue 11/20/2007) the papers on BeeSource.com (goggle Dr R’s name) and the ones that have been presented here (sent by Dr. Rodriguez?) as well as the ones posted here and other web sites. There is but one procedure it includes fogging and cords.
Thank You for your patience in proving something I should have accepted before this.

Ski


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## lakebilly (Aug 3, 2009)

with the above amounts , how many hives will this treat? 

any newer threads or opinions about this method?


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## martinvermillion64 (Mar 22, 2012)

*Re: copies of FGMO/thymol protocol*

Please send me one also. Thanks for your trouble. [email protected]


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## ryanhalby (Aug 11, 2012)

*Re: FGMO/Thymol fogging*

Please send me a copy [email protected] Thank You


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