# beetle trap source?



## Jpoindexter (Oct 22, 2010)

I've tried most every beetle trap on the market. The one that snaps together sounds like the one at http://www.gabees.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=41_70&products_id=370 They're pretty inexpensive and I have tried them, but I didn't have as much luck as I thought I would. I didn't get a handle on the hive beetle population until I moved my bees to FULL SUN. Thats the key in the South. A weak hive in the shade of a tree is not going to last long against hive beetles. The hive beetle seems to handle the heat just fine, I believe its the beetle larvae that can't handle the heat. The beetle itself doesn't do much harm, except lay eggs all over the brood nest, but once the eggs hatch - it looks like millions of fly maggots are crawling all over the comb like ants. Then there really is no coming back for that hive. Dump it in an ant-pile and let the fire ants control the beetle population - or toss them in the sun on some pavement and let them bake  .
When it comes to beetles and any pest really, the less you open the hive, the better. Every time you open the hive, the beetles are set free from the "prisons" that the bees have encapsulated them in and they begin laying eggs. 
The less area that the bees have to defend - the better, so when starting nucs don't pack them full of brood, make sure the nuc boxes seal fairly well, and make sure your nuc box has a reduced entrance. A 3 frame Nuc doesn't need much more than a 3/4" hole. Once a nuc is strong enough to defend itself and if it has the right resources, a good queen will lay up as many frames as the colony can handle. Again, I can't stress enough that full sun is the key. The Spring and Fall are cooler, so the beetles can be tougher to deal with. At least in the Spring, coming out of the cold months, the beetle population is lower which helps with nuc production. In the fall, I avoid disturbing hives as much as possible. Good luck!


----------



## Bee Madness (Dec 13, 2013)

Thanks for the quick reply. I am just sure you guys in the south have a worse time with these than we do up here in the north.


----------



## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

Midwest seems to be pretty bad. west and dry sandy dirty they don't do as well. then need moisture. I have used beetle barns and The oil traps. beetle barns work better, but you do have to change out the strips in them once a month or so. I hate beetle jails. the oil in them is a pain. might be fine for some with a cpl hives, but with over 100 its faster and easier to crush beetles by hand.


----------



## Bee Madness (Dec 13, 2013)

We like to laugh about it as the whack-a-mole game at Chuckie Cheese. But it doesn't seem to be a very effective control strategy. Cheapest Barn source? Seems like my next million could be made by putting a small hammer on the bent end of a hive tool and and naming it whack a beetle hive tool!


----------



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

You haven't mentioned your hive placement, but there are many reports that hives in _full sun_ have fewer beetle issues than hives in partial or full shade.


----------



## Bee Madness (Dec 13, 2013)

I have hives in all different locations 8 aparies spread over 20x10 mile area shade appears to really add to the problem. And I am trying to lean toward sunnier spots. But, being a primarily ag area finding places with water, I can drive to, out of the way of people and spray, near enough to other spots, with good forage among other considerations. I half to make some executive decisions. And one of the main reasons I am asking is for my divides this spring would like to give them less pests to start with. Nucs with a little drawn seemed to do better than divides made with 10 frame boxes and a little drawn. And I had no luck with queen castle. I am getting off topic. thanks for your help


----------



## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

Best thing thats worked for me in helping that is gaurdstar.


----------



## max2 (Dec 24, 2009)

Bee Madness said:


> Saw a manufactured beetle trap that snaps together and inside is put some kind of roach paste. Where the bees cannot come in contact with it. have any of you had experience with this trap? Do you know of a source of the trap or the paste? Have been using oil traps and guardstar with heavy infestations they work somewhat but, definitely don't get them all. Has any one heard of a "economic threshold" for treatment? How about experience with boric acid and crisco method? I don't really want to start my next years splits with lots of beetles to deal with. Any suggestions from you southern beeks?


I have not used these but they do come highly recommended. I use the Beetle Blaster type with DE and they work for me - most of the time.

Look here: http://www.apithor.com.au/


----------



## DPBsbees (Apr 14, 2011)

max2 said:


> I have not used these but they do come highly recommended. I use the Beetle Blaster type with DE and they work for me - most of the time.
> 
> max2- Is DE diatomaceous earth?


----------



## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

I agree with full sun, but not all my yards have that option as I deal with different farmers and landlords. All my hives have beetles, some only a few here and there, others have more. I would say I only have a marginal problem with beetles, though past years have been worse. I hate losing hives for any reason so I'm going to work some proactive prevention plans. Not sure what would constitute an economic threshold, but I don't need or want beetles. I'm not, however, too overly concerned about make my hives 100% beetle-free, but the fewer the better.

My biggest problem with SHB is in my honey house. I bring in my supers into a hot room, 90+ degrees with a dehumidfier. I prefer to let them sit for 24, maybe 48 hours. If I procrastinate or get busy or get called away on any kind of emergency, those stinking eggs will hatch and then I've got a problem.

I've tried the "jewel" CD cases with the notches knocked out and the Gel Roach Paste (can't remember the name, but the chemical is fipronil, nasty stuff for the bees and the beetles). I usually lay two of these traps up on the top bars of the uppermost box, under the inner cover. They are cheap by the 100's at Staples Office Supply, smaller quantities at Wal-Mart. I thought of reusing them but the bees will propolize them up real well, so I toss them. Very effective. I'm not crazy about the chems, but SHB beetles can take down a hive in the shade quite easily.

I used to use the "sandwich" box where you take a Glad Sandwich Container, drill 3/16" holes in the side, lay in some cooking oil and float a jar lid of vinegar in the middle. These sit on top of the inner cover and need a shim. Fairly effective, but they catch a number of bees that somehow get through the holes. These traps work but you need bees to chase the beetles up through the hole in the inner cover. Sometimes when I lift up one of these traps, I'll find a dozen beetles finding refuge underneath the trap rather than going in! Now it's "hammer time!" I don't mess with these traps any more.

I like Hood traps with the three compartments for oil in the outer and vinegar in the middle. I put these in the #1 slot in my supers and on occasion, the bees will fill the void with complimenary comb honey! Marginally effective, but no chems. They need bees to chase the beetles around.

In the deep shade, I like the West trap. It sits on the bottom board and you fill the trap with enough cheap cooking oil to fill cover the bottom. There's a slot to keep the bees (mostly) out and the beetles run down into the oil. Works quite well, but I only use it in the shady spots. I much prefer a screen bottom board on my hives, but the West trap accomodates a solid bottom board with a shim to account for it's heighth. Beetles will still find refuge under the trap, but at least they are not messing with the hive. Also, obviously you need a level hive stand and you can't move the hive with the trap in place. I've tried soapy water, cheaper than oil, but much less effective. I wonder if a little Honey-B-Healthy would draw them in with the soapy water? West also works to drowned falling varroa mites. I tried filling these with DE but in our humidity, it clumped into a solid mass in a day. I can leave these traps in year round and they are a mess to change out the oil.

In my swarm traps and in my nucs, which have solid bottoms and where my options are fewer do to the design of the nuc and the equipment that is available, I will use 1/2 Checkmite+ strip stapled to the bottom of a piece of cardboard, laid on the bottom of the nuc. Don't really like this option either, but it works relatively well but I don't have a good way to measure the beetle kill. My nucs and swarm traps, particularly with later swarms at the end of June and early July are particularly susceptible to SHBs.

I've also used the beetle blasters that fit in between the frames with oil, but they were marginal. Very cheap, however. About a buck a trap in quantity and no chems. I needed a "picnic condiment" bottle (Wal-Mart, God bless them, the kind for refilling ketchup and mustard) with a narrow nozzle to get the oil in the trap. Doesn't take much oil, but still a trick to get it IN the trap and not running down your brood frame.

I remember when SHBs first invaded my southern hives in Scott County on the sandy soil. I thought my northern hives in Cape Girardeau County on solid clay soil were safe. Nope. I don't think it matters.

Never bothered with Guardstar. It's temporary and I figured if the larvae are slipping out after working over my hives, it's too little, too late. I wondered if I put a tray of oil, as wide as the hive entrance, just under the entrance if I could catch them without using Guardstar. This is still in the planning file.

Like any IPM regime, I like multiple approaches, preferring more mechanical and "natural," but hey, what's so natural about vinegar and oil in a plastic container in a bee hive?

Grant
Jackson https://www.createspace.com/4111886


----------



## beemandan (Dec 5, 2005)

In south GA and FL where shb are a most serious problem there are many beekeepers who use the 'beetle barn' baited with a fipronil roach bait. It seems to work well. I visited one fellow's yards in south GA before and after such a 'treatment'. I have to admit that it was pretty miraculous. On the first visit some of his hives had hundreds. A few weeks after putting in the barns you had to look to find more than a few. I believe that the roach bait he used was called Combat.
Having said all of that, shb are a tropical pest. Although you will probably see some in IN, I can't imagine them being a long term, serious pest.....unless you have some migratory operations nearby.


----------



## mdax (Apr 29, 2013)

My entire lot is shaded and beetles started out giving me problems. 
I only have 3 hives so I went hog wild and installed Screened bottom boards with oil traps, 1 brood frame based beetle trap and 1 beetlejail in the top super per hive. 


























http://beetlejail.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=39

I also used a screened beetle top cover. 

It was great to watch their numbers slowly decline, now it's rare for me to see 1-2 beetles in a trap.


----------



## larrybeach (May 25, 2013)

I am going to try the Beetle Jail sbb also, next spring on 2 new hives I am starting. Also got their entrance trap, it seems like a good design for catching shb before they get inside the hive.


----------

