# keeping hives on commercial pallets?



## jean-marc (Jan 13, 2005)

We do. If you move bees a lot it is the only way that really works. The clips keep the hives on the pallet when in rough terrain. The only way to go that makes sense if the hives are moved several times a year.

Jean-Marc


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Qvox said:


> How many beeks keep their hives on commercial pallets where the bottom is the pallet?


If you aren't moving your hives around, why bother? If you don't have enough to justify some sort of machine to pick them up and move them, truck, trailer, and loader of some sort, why bother? There isn't anything magical about 4 way pallets, unless you plan to move the hives some time each year.


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## Honey-4-All (Dec 19, 2008)

if you have any premonition that you will be "ON THE MOVE" anytime in the next few years start building the pallets from the git go. 

How you build them? Thats a whole other internet full of options.:s


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## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

I have all my hives that are in out yards on pallets, I have very nice plastic pallets that last a looooooong time and are light to move. They came from the food industry and are near perfect for 4 hives at 34" X 45" you never know when someone is going to decide you Have to move your outyard!


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## DirtyLittleSecret (Sep 10, 2014)

Picked up a bunch of plastic beer pallets for the bees and firewood. Allows for more air circulation and provides a nice stable / easy to level base out in the field. The ones I got hold two 10 frame langs so they can all face the sun.


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## Qvox (May 21, 2015)

Honey-4-All said:


> if you have any premonition that you will be "ON THE MOVE" anytime in the next few years start building the pallets from the git go.
> 
> How you build them? Thats a whole other internet full of options.:s


That's my thought.

If all goes well I will be migrating them.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Tenbears said:


> I have all my hives that are in out yards on pallets, I have very nice plastic pallets that last a looooooong time and are light to move. They came from the food industry and are near perfect for 4 hives at 34" X 45" you never know when someone is going to decide you Have to move your outyard!


How do you keep the hives from slipping off when you pick them up with a loader?


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## Qvox (May 21, 2015)

sqkcrk said:


> How do you keep the hives from slipping off when you pick them up with a loader?


Lashing straps?


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Is that an answer or a question? Looks like you haven't done it.


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## Qvox (May 21, 2015)

sqkcrk said:


> Is that an answer or a question? Looks like you haven't done it.[/QUOTE
> 
> It was a guess.
> 
> I've never worked with plastic food pallets, so I don't know.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Okay. Well I have used them for other things other than bee hives and things slide really easily off of them.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Qvox, do you have a skid steer or tractor to move palatalized hives? Do not put the cart before the horse, if you have a yard of 4 ways, and need to move the yard, with no tractor, then...
build to your current situation, then upgrade when ever that is

I bought a 36 frame Jones before I bought my current 60 frame Cowen. I also bought a skidsteer to move hives strapped to pallets before I bought my ezyloader and switched my hives onto two ways. Do you see what Im getting at?


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

I set some hives on plastic pallets. This is not a hot climate. Hive filled up with 150 lbs of honey. Sun heated up black pallet. Hive began to list. Had to prop hive up with shim that winter. Will be more careful using a black plastic pallet next time.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I went from conventional, at the time, bottom boarded hives stapled together when moved by hand to a skid steer loader and 6 hives on wear house pallet to wooden 4 way pallets. I didn't intentionally go that route. Just responded to need, ability, and what was available.

Since you seem to be looking at possibilities, and want to palletize, I would suggest you skip the beer pallets and the plastic pallets and go right to the wooden 4 way pallets most commonly used by commercial/migratory beekeepers in your area.


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## Qvox (May 21, 2015)

Ian said:


> Qvox, do you have a skid steer or tractor to move palatalized hives? Do not put the cart before the horse, if you have a yard of 4 ways, and need to move the yard, with no tractor, then...
> build to your current situation, then upgrade when ever that is
> 
> I bought a 36 frame Jones before I bought my current 60 frame Cowen. I also bought a skidsteer to move hives strapped to pallets before I bought my ezyloader and switched my hives onto two ways. Do you see what Im getting at?


Very good point, thank you, I agree.

I'm fortunate in that I already have the equipment to move the pallets. I was looking at a design were the commercial pallet replaced the bottom boards. I like the idea of not having to build the separate bottom boards and also have pallets. I guess I could build both. But since I'm a "one-man equipment builder" cutting out a step is attractive from a time standpoint, and might save a few bucks. 

This is what I was looking at: http://dchoneybees.blogspot.com/2013/01/commercial-migratory-pallet-design.html

Most of the large commercial operators I know (only 2) use standard hives and regular shipping pallets. What they do works, they're both very successful old commercial operations. I was just trying to cut out a step. I like aspects of the above design.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

well then, if you have the equipment to move pallets, build away! Those pallet look exactly as most 4 ways do. you will never look back.


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## Qvox (May 21, 2015)

Ian said:


> well then, if you have the equipment to move pallets, build away! Those pallet look exactly as most 4 ways do. you will never look back.


Thanks Ian, the strange thing is the two very successful large-scale operations I've seen don't use the commercial pallets that double as bottoms. Both send a large number of hives across country on pollination contracts, and have for years. One of them has been in operation for a few generations. 

Maybe they just do what has worked for them for years, or maybe they know something I haven't even thought about.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Nope, most pick what works and goes with it. 
The standard 4 way design is hard to beat


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Qvox said:


> maybe they know something I haven't even thought about.


You can take that to the Bank.

One thing is for sure. The bees don't care what kind of pallet you use. Do what matches your style and philosophy.


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## Qvox (May 21, 2015)

sqkcrk said:


> You can take that to the Bank.
> 
> One thing is for sure. The bees don't care what kind of pallet you use. Do what matches your style and philosophy.


It really comes down to trying to cut out a construction step. Save a little time, and maybe a few bucks. That's it, for me. If I can avoid having to build bottoms I'm good with that. I know the bees don't care, but perhaps there is something I'm missing. Something I'm not thinking about. 

But then I guess that's why I started the thread, I'm just trying to tap other's wisdom and experience.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

What you don't spend now will cost you later. Do it right the first time.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

I basically use the standard 4 way design but cut in half to make it a double. It's the simplest cost effective user friendly design out there.


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## BernhardHeuvel (Mar 13, 2013)

Played with some ideas and this first prototype was the outcome.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWvLTyobeCQ

I wanted a lightweight pallet that is well ventilated from the bottom, since we move hives with closed entrances through suburban and urban areas. I don't want a screened bottom that breaks when moving it with the forklift. Also the bottom base should be plastic, since we have a lot of rain and wet ground here.

I used an Intermediate Bulk Container (IBC) pallet, which has just the measurements I need plus it can be screwed to the wooden part of that pallet. So no slipping of the hives off the pallet. 

I wanted a deep floor, for several reasons. (I only use deep floors for all of my hives.) Entrance and landing board integrated.


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## B&E (Dec 27, 2011)

Ian said:


> I basically use the standard 4 way design but cut in half to make it a double. It's the simplest cost effective user friendly design out there.


until you want to load anything but a pickup truck.


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## Ben Little (Apr 9, 2012)

FYI drill a couple of holes in the bottom board of each hive on your 4 way and cover it with a small piece of 1/8 hardware cloth/ #8 mesh ( some people call it different things) you have no idea how much water can accumulate in those suckers if you don't. Keep those bees dry ! 3/4 or 1 inch holes do nicely

Main reason is the pallets never seem to sit on a level surface in any bee yard and unless you take the time to slope you bottoms while keeping your risers level, it's just easier


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## Makin' Honey (Sep 13, 2010)

Qvox, I started with pallets and individual bottom boards years ago and then changed over to the pallet as the bottom board. I found as a GA and FL beekeeper leaves and pine straw building up between the brood chambers and with the high rain fall in the south it rotted my brood chambers. So I changed back to pallets and individual bottom boards to let the debris and rain pass through.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

On the 4 way pallets using the w clip there is a 1/2 gap between the hives. So if you put them on the truck and strap back to front the top boxes will move together. Do you shim them to keep them from moving together when you strap them?


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## bendriftin (Nov 1, 2010)

I will give my 2 cents. Personally I work hard enough evening up bees on pallets every year replacing dead outs and what not to never want to hand load bees ever again so I am a firm believer in pallets. 4 way pallets give you the easiest access to the hive. W clips make it much easier in my opinion when changing out boxes on the pallets but I do like the tight fit of the u clips. As far as boxes moving with w clips it is not a big problem. I like to leave boxes alone for a couple weeks before moving if I can and let the bees glue them together as much as possible. Then put a 2x6 across the top and my strap on that and it keeps the strap from pulling boxes together. The hole in the floor isn't a bad idea but a vent in the side of the lid is better for removing moisture in my opinion.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

B&E said:


> until you want to load anything but a pickup truck.


Lol, definitely not as user friendly as the 4 way when loading semis! I use the two way because I move my hives via Ezyloader. What I meant was that 4 way pallet design ( which I also follow) is the simplest cost effective user friendly pallet design out there. 

I love the U clips, holds everything tight. The only draw back is ants and termites find old boxes and start digging


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## Sadler91 (Nov 6, 2011)

Qvox said:


> Very good point, thank you, I agree.
> 
> I'm fortunate in that I already have the equipment to move the pallets. I was looking at a design were the commercial pallet replaced the bottom boards. I like the idea of not having to build the separate bottom boards and also have pallets. I guess I could build both. But since I'm a "one-man equipment builder" cutting out a step is attractive from a time standpoint, and might save a few bucks.
> 
> ...


The bottom slats on the pallet should be recessed back about 5 inches. That way the pallets stack nice with the hive clips.


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## jean-marc (Jan 13, 2005)

Goodpoint Sadler and I woud use 2x4 instead of 1x6. This is the contact piece with Mother Earth. Seems to me the thicker that part the longer lasting the pallet will be.

Jean-Marc


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

jean-marc said:


> Goodpoint Sadler and I woud use 2x4 instead of 1x6. This is the contact piece with Mother Earth. Seems to me the thicker that part the longer lasting the pallet will be. Jean-Marc


Well if you are worried about mother earth then I would use trex as my bottom slats. I put pallets under them when I am at my home locations.


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