# Introducing the Easy Vap Pro



## Grins

johno said:


> View attachment 47685
> 
> For the beekeepers who have their hives on pallets and can only treat from the hive entrance we now can offer the Easy Vap Pro. This is the same simple device which now has a much lower outlet pipe and has more than enough reach to go over the landing board. As the manufacturing of the copper bowl is more complex the Easy Vap Pro will sell at $160 plus the $15 for USPS priority mail shipping. Any enquiries can be made to Johno at [email protected] that is john underscore olivier @ msn.com Note the 2 i's in olivier.


I'd like to see a demo video.


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## johno

Grins I do not have any hives on pallets so it will be pretty difficult for me to make up a video of treating as the commercials might do. I personally am quite happy treating from behind my hives and this new unit could still be used from behind but it means you can get the outlet very much lower if you have the need to.


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## aran

Grins said:


> I'd like to see a demo video.


I bought this last year from Johno. I already own the provap 110 but wanted a second unit. I almost never use the provap 110 now. Johnos vaporizer is faster to heat up and works more consistently in my humble opinion.
I can do my 26 hives in under 45mins with this gadget.


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## swampdonkey

of course you would come out with this a week after my original easy vap was delivered :lpf:


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## johno

The only difference between the 2 units is the fact that the outlet is lower otherwise all other parts are the same and also cost a little more. for the normal beekeeper with his hives on some sort of stand Johno's Easy Vap should still be the goto Vaporizer.


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## aran

johno said:


> The only difference between the 2 units is the fact that the outlet is lower otherwise all other parts are the same and also cost a little more. for the normal beekeeper with his hives on some sort of stand Johno's Easy Vap should still be the goto Vaporizer.


yup i just drill the boxes and ur good to go


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## swampdonkey

johno said:


> The only difference between the 2 units is the fact that the outlet is lower otherwise all other parts are the same and also cost a little more. for the normal beekeeper with his hives on some sort of stand Johno's Easy Vap should still be the goto Vaporizer.


Oh yeah...I love the one I got. Was just thinking of going with pallets for my next out yard.


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## Grins

Johno, one more question- what size hole is needed? 

Thanks


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## swampdonkey

Grins said:


> Johno, one more question- what size hole is needed?
> 
> Thanks


 1/4"


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## Grins

swampdonkey said:


> 1/4"


Thanks!


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## Grins

John, I fired up your Easy Vap this morning, all I can say is wow. I was using the hot iron inserting it through a rear port in my hives. The iron angered the bees, caused bearding, and had me on my hands and knees for an hour and a half. I hated OAV, it was necessary but, oh, so unpleasant. I drilled the holes yesterday and went out early this morning and did my 5 hives in 20 minutes start to finish with no angry bees, no angry knees, and not even enough time elapsed to make my coffee cold. When I opened up the entrances not one bee stormed out, they were oblivious to the treatment and after the hostile response to the hot iron shoved into their home it was a real treat to get this important job done with so little bad energy. I'm grateful to you, you have provided a great tool at a great price! Well done!

One question for John and all the users, what have you found is the best way to dish 1/2 teaspoon OA into the cup? I found the cup diameter small for my measuring spoon and am wondering how others get this done.

Thank you, John!


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## johno

Grins why did you take so long to do those 5 hives? In that video I made I did 12 hives in around 15 minutes and I think that was slow because I was talking and filming. I also find that you will need the smallest diameter measuring spoon that you can find, it will also help if you do 2 small loads with the spoon or you could even dip the cap into the OA container and scoop the OA in with the measuring spoon. I keep my OA in a Folgers plastic 24 oz container.


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## Grins

johno said:


> Grins why did you take so long to do those 5 hives? In that video I made I did 12 hives in around 15 minutes and I think that was slow because I was talking and filming. I also find that you will need the smallest diameter measuring spoon that you can find, it will also help if you do 2 small loads with the spoon or you could even dip the cap into the OA container and scoop the OA in with the measuring spoon. I keep my OA in a Folgers plastic 24 oz container.


Aww, c'mon, it was my first time.  I set a 10 minute timer on the first one as I treated it so I spent 5 minutes standing around drinking coffee waiting to open them up again after treating the last one.


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## BomberJosh

Johno, Great service dude! I ordered it and got it in 2 business days. Plus 4 caps. Thanks man. Looking forward to pulling all supers in a week or two and then treating over 40 hives plus 8 double nucs fast now.


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## dddillon

Just ordered mine, happy fathers day to me  and it was here in 2 days, I think.

Question for John O..... gonna use my golf cart for powering the unit.

what is the minimum converter specs you would suggest for this? anything to look out for?


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## johno

I would look at a 500 watt inverter they are pretty cheap at Amazon, but they are 12 volt input if I recollect golf carts are around 36 volts.


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## dddillon

thanks john.

I was thinking of connecting across one of the batteries, but I just realized that my club car batteries are 8v. 

May have to figure this out, unless there are inverters that use 8 or 16 volts....

what is the current draw on the EasyVap? 

has anyone here used their cart as a power source for EasyVap or ProVap or any other inverter operation?


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## johno

The 12 volt draw will be in the vicinity of 25 amps while the controller is calling for heat, if you are going to your hives in your golf cart maybe it would be best to carry along a fully charged 12 battery when you need to treat.


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## gone2seed

Is there a website with video and more info?


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## dddillon

johno said:


> The 12 volt draw will be in the vicinity of 25 amps while the controller is calling for heat, if you are going to your hives in your golf cart maybe it would be best to carry along a fully charged 12 battery when you need to treat.


Would this be a 'Starter' car battery, or a deep cycle battery? I won't have more that 10 or 12 hives to do (famous last words).


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## dddillon

dddillon said:


> Would this be a 'Starter' car battery, or a deep cycle battery? I won't have more that 10 or 12 hives to do (famous last words).


with research, it's looking like the usage of the battery for the EasyVap would specify using a deep cycle battery.

Would a 12v 35 amphour deep cycle battery be good for doing 10 or 12 hives?


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## dddillon

doing all this research and figuring out all the different options to get power to my beehive. Totally forgot we had recently bought a sweet little portable generator for camping.... problem solved.

LOL I guess it's really Glamping when you have a generator.

D


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## dddillon

The instructions say to drill a 1/4" hole int the bottom board, or in the center of the frame rest of the upper brood box.
Does it matter one way or the other, as regards to the vapor reaching all locations in the box.


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## JWPalmer

Don, It does not matter. The vaporizer will blow the vapors (actually aerosol crystals) throughout the hive. I prefer to put my hole in the back of the bottom board, just off the bottom of the hive.


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## dddillon

JWPalmer said:


> Don, It does not matter. The vaporizer will blow the vapors (actually aerosol crystals) throughout the hive. I prefer to put my hole in the back of the bottom board, just off the bottom of the hive.


Thanks. Thought so, but just wanted to check.


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## johno

No matter where you vaporize you will get vapor into the hive, however from my personal observations the higher you insert the nozzle the better the coverage of the vapor. If you are vaporizing into a dead space you will find that for the vapor to spread to all corners you have to displace the air already there so as most of the air leaks out in the bottom area of the hive unless you have a large upper opening so the vapor does not fill all the upper spaces. So if I have 3 mediums, 2 of which are brood boxes if I vaporize at the top of the second box I feel that I get good coverage of the brood section as well as the bees in the top box. As some of my colonies are now in 4 boxes as they are so large I definitely feel better about treating from the middle. JMHO.


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## JWPalmer

Johno, did you ever see Lauri's video of her using a Provap on a hive? I don't have the link but I was amazed at
how thoroughly the entire hive was covered by the "smoke" and for how long it continued to move around as the bees fanned it. But, we each need to do what we feel is best. Putting it in the middle eliminates any doubt as to coverage.


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## Richiestac

What all is needed to power the easy vap pro. Saw 12 volt car batter. But saw something about some type of inverter. Not familiar with this. I’ve only used the vaporization wands. I lit up 2 frames and almost lost those hives. Appreciate any help so I know what I need to purchase.


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## johno

You can purchase a 500 watt inverter that you can clip onto your trucks battery and then use what ever length of extension cord you need to reach your hives. 500 watt inverters are available from Amazon for around $30. Some use the $100 taigate generator from Harbor Freight.


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## Plannerwgp

Looks like it is necessary to hold the Vap Pro very close to your body or face. Is there any way to extend it further from the body or face as this could result in a seriuous health issue. I assume you recommend a respirator. Do you include some safety instruction for using the product?


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## johno

If you hold the device it is only as close as your arm allows, as far as safety instructions it is mentioned that you should use a mask of your choice if desired. Furthermore the Easy Vap is left hanging in the hole so you can move quite a distance away and do other work while the unit is vaporizing. If you are going to treat through the entrance I am sure the unit can be left in the entrance untill vaporization is complete. Quite frankly I do not see the point in working through the front if you have access to the side of the hive and could work through the 1/4" hole in the side of the hive. The Easy Vap Pro was built for beekeepers who keep their hives on pallets which are low to the ground and some of those keepers treat through the front entrance. Do not confuse this with the Easy Vap which is for beekeepers who have their hives on stands and have easy access to the back of the hive, once you have treated from behind your hives you will never want to treat from the front again.


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## Plannerwgp

That is very logical.


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## Richiestac

What is the difference between the easy vap and easy vap pro? I know you said pro is for on pallets.


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## Nightgardener

I'm sold on this. :thumbsup:How do I go about buying the Easy Vap?


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## ifixoldhouses

why use the .25 blue plastic box? a metal handy box would be better wouldn't it? If it wasn't for that I might would consider one.


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## Nightgardener

ifixoldhouses said:


> why use the .25 blue plastic box? a metal handy box would be better wouldn't it? If it wasn't for that I might would consider one.


Well, you can always build your own.  However, I've been following a few internet discussions where people tinker with these things, and it seems to take them forever to complete a unit. Maybe that's an option for you though, if you're a handy person. Or, maybe you could request someone to custom build one for you with a metal box?

Or, just buy the Provap 110, if you don't mind spending close to $500. 

Personally, I don't mind the plastic box; this unit would save me $350, money which I'd rather spend on boxes and frames. I'm glad this is available at a much cheaper price, even if it looks cheaper. The proof is in the pudding, and from comments here and elsewhere it appears that the unit works well.

I've heard that even the Provap 110 is a "copy" of some Italian model. A couple of the old timers in my bee association use the Provap 110, and I was assisting one of them with his hives, and he showed me how to use the Provap. I was very impressed. But like my friend said "It's a great option if you have $500 to spend; it's not such a great option if you don't." Another friend suggested I'd look into the Easy Vap. 

At $150, I think the Easy Vap costs about the same as some of the regular wand, "heated dish" units. I was considering one of those, but they take a long time to heat up, and some people consider them to be a real fire hazard. 

Does anyone else want to chime in on the Easy Vap? Has it been around long enough that someone could comment on its durability?


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## Richiestac

ifixoldhouses said:


> why use the .25 blue plastic box? a metal handy box would be better wouldn't it? If it wasn't for that I might would consider one.


. If that is a concern, why not just swap it out? They’re only a few dollars and your still saving ~$300


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## ifixoldhouses

Richiestac said:


> . If that is a concern, why not just swap it out? They’re only a few dollars and your still saving ~$300


ya maybe if there's no soldering involved, I need something faster than that wand thing, it's a pain on 12 colonies.


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## johno

Hey guys if the unit is too cheap for you guys hell I could use all sorts of fancy stuff and get the cost closer to $500! I wonder how many takers I would have then. That cheap plastic box is there precisely cause it is cheap and the one I have been using for the 3rd season now is probably the nicest looking part of the vaporizer,. Now if you want to drive your truck over the vaporizer maybe you should get a steel box and maybe even chrome plate the thing , that would really impress the mites. Night gardener you can find my email address in the For Sale section.


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## Richiestac

johno said:


> Hey guys if the unit is too cheap for you guys hell I could use all sorts of fancy stuff and get the cost closer to $500! I wonder how many takers I would have then. That cheap plastic box is there precisely cause it is cheap and the one I have been using for the 3rd season now is probably the nicest looking part of the vaporizer,. Now if you want to drive your truck over the vaporizer maybe you should get a steel box and maybe even chrome plate the thing , that would really impress the mites. Night gardener you can find my email address in the For Sale section.


. I have absolutely no problem. I’m actually waiting on an invoice so I can pay for mine. Can’t wait to put it to use ASAP. Have 18 hives with high mite counts. I tried using the wand and actually lit 2 frames. Charred them pretty well done.


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## edzkoda

ifixoldhouses said:


> why use the .25 blue plastic box? a metal handy box would be better wouldn't it? If it wasn't for that I might would consider one.


There are lots of ways to build and various things to use. For the record I have been using this for several months as well as loaning it out to club members without any issues. Really don't see any problems in the future. The box, is a fairly durable plastic and shouldn't be taking a beaten if used correctly.


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## Nightgardener

johno said:


> Hey guys if the unit is too cheap for you guys hell I could use all sorts of fancy stuff and get the cost closer to $500! I wonder how many takers I would have then. That cheap plastic box is there precisely cause it is cheap and the one I have been using for the 3rd season now is probably the nicest looking part of the vaporizer,. Now if you want to drive your truck over the vaporizer maybe you should get a steel box and maybe even chrome plate the thing , that would really impress the mites. Night gardener you can find my email address in the For Sale section.


Good points, I don't mind the blue plastic box. And besides, I had a closer look at my friend's $500 Provap this morning. Guess what the housing was made of? Steel? Guess again. Good old fashioned plastic!


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## snl

Nightgardener said:


> I've heard that even the Provap 110 is a "copy" of some Italian model.


Either you heard incorrectly or whoever said that spoke without knowledge.


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## Nightgardener

snl said:


> Either you heard incorrectly or whoever said that spoke without knowledge.


SNL, you could possibly be right. And IF I heard incorrectly or IF whomever said that spoke without knowledge....well, let's just say that neither would be the first time!  Given that I'm pretty new to these devices, I'll assume that you know more about this than I do. But perhaps general statements are less than useful. So let me try to be a bit more specific. Here is the link to the Italian device in question, the Sublimox APF-Plus. Perhaps you can go a little bit more in detail about why you think I heard incorrectly or why you believe you think the person who told me spoke without knowledge? I've got no interest in arguing here, just trying to straighten out the facts. This unit looks very similar to the Provap 110, but it's possible that the Italian version is the knock off, and not the other way around. Can you please elaborate a bit on your comment? I'm still just researching, and so I have an open mind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6p0QF5bQec


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## ifixoldhouses

Nightgardener said:


> SNL, you could possibly be right. And IF I heard incorrectly or IF whomever said that spoke without knowledge....well, let's just say that neither would be the first time!  Given that I'm pretty new to these devices, I'll assume that you know more about this than I do. But perhaps general statements are less than useful. So let me try to be a bit more specific. Here is the link to the Italian device in question, the Sublimox APF-Plus. Perhaps you can go a little bit more in detail about why you think I heard incorrectly or why you believe you think the person who told me spoke without knowledge? I've got no interest in arguing here, just trying to straighten out the facts. This unit looks very similar to the Provap 110, but it's possible that the Italian version is the knock off, and not the other way around. Can you please elaborate a bit on your comment? I'm still just researching, and so I have an open mind.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6p0QF5bQec


Dang $819 for that one, saw For $429 somewhere else, but doubt they would ship it overseas, and the plug wouldn't work


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## snl

I don’t want to hijack John’s thread, but the ProVap and the Sublimox were introduced approximately the same time and developed independently. The Sublimox is mainly a 220v unit and sold primarily in Europe. The ProVap has both 110 and 220v versions.


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## Bee Arthur

If I get a 500 watt inverter and hook it up to the same car battery I currently use for vaporizing, how many hives could I treat before I need to recharge the battery (if any)? Or would I need to start driving my truck down to my bee yard to power the vaporizer?


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## snl

Bee Arthur said:


> If I get a 500 watt inverter and hook it up to the same car battery I currently use for vaporizing, how many hives could I treat before I need to recharge?


Depends on your battery, you won’t know until you try...


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## Nightgardener

snl said:


> I don’t want to hijack John’s thread, but the ProVap and the Sublimox were introduced approximately the same time and developed independently. The Sublimox is mainly a 220v unit and sold primarily in Europe. The ProVap has both 110 and 220v versions.


I'm glad you pointed out what you think is incorrect information. I couldn't remember if someone told me that the ProVap was copied from the Sublimox or if I had read it on the internet. I now remember where I'd read it: 

https://www.reddit.com/r/Beekeeping/comments/75l32r/diy_oxalic_acid_vaporizer/do7hxjf/

The problem is of course, that just because someone makes a statement on the internet, it doesn't make it true. That is true for my statement, the Reddit statement and your comment as well. As for the Sublimox and ProVap being introduced about the same time and developed independently, I still think there's a high probability that one was copied after the other; unless you can support that statement with more facts, I'm willing to bet one came out before the other. Maybe "copied" is too strong of a word, and I should say "modeled after" or "inspired by." And knowing that the Europeans have been ahead of the US as far as OA vaporization/sublimation goes, I feel there is a high probability that they beat us to the punch on this one. I'm just applying critical thinking skills here, and I'm still allowing for the possibility that you're correct.

By the way, you aren't hijacking the thread; but contributing valuable information. There is a not nearly as much information out there about these unit as I'd like to see, and adding relevant information to the discussion should only boost the thread. To clarify my point, I brought the subject of copying up because some people will of course say that the Easy Vap is just a copy, and that it looks "too cheap." If it's true that the ProVap in turn is modeled after another unit, then that's relevant, and also a bit ironic. 


I'm just glad I found out about Johno's Easy Vap, as my stronger hives have a high mite load and I'm tired of tinkering with other treatment methods, but spending $500 on this is not an option for me right now.


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## johno

As a matter of interest the first time I saw this type of vaporizer being used it was the Sublimox way back , there were no others. At this time I was already trying to build band heater vaporizers but was struggling to find away to insert thr dose into a hot chamber. Once I saw the Sublimox I realised that it was the way to go, however machining plugs from PTFE would be expensive and was always searching for another way and when silicone plugs were mentioned along the way that became the answer to many problems. If one cares to go back into old postings on the DIY vaporizers and on the commercial site you will find that these postings pre date Larry and the Pro Vap, I thought that Larry had made a deal with the manufacturers of Sublimox to produce a 110 volt device to market in the USA, perhaps I was wrong.


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## Nightgardener

johno said:


> As a matter of interest the first time I saw this type of vaporizer being used it was the Sublimox way back , there were no others. At this time I was already trying to build band heater vaporizers but was struggling to find away to insert thr dose into a hot chamber. Once I saw the Sublimox I realised that it was the way to go, however machining plugs from PTFE would be expensive and was always searching for another way and when silicone plugs were mentioned along the way that became the answer to many problems. If one cares to go back into old postings on the DIY vaporizers and on the commercial site you will find that these postings pre date Larry and the Pro Vap, I thought that Larry had made a deal with the manufacturers of Sublimox to produce a 110 volt device to market in the USA, perhaps I was wrong.


Very interesting, Johno....so the European model was in fact the first one to the market. I suspected this all along and I'm not just saying that because I'm European!  I've just recently gotten into beekeeping, but I've already learned that when it comes to mite treatment, the US is somewhat lagging behind the Europeans. I'm sure that has less to do with beekeeper knowledge than it does with government agencies and red tape. For example, I believe most European beekeepers consider OA treatments with honey supers in place a non-issue.


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## snl

As previously stated the PV and Sub were developed about the same time. However the small company that made the PV had no marketing experience nor did they speak English. Thus the Sub was marketed first. It was only after later contact through an interpreter and subsequent advertising that the PV gained popularity.


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## Live Oak

A key deciding factor for me was the digital temperature display on the ProVap 110 which is very useful with respect to indicating to the operator that the ProVap has reached operating temperature for use and when it displays a temperature of about 240 or more, most times all of the OA has been cooked off which helps to keep the amount of OA building up in the cap minimized.


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## johno

Live Oak, you have a digital temperature display on both the Easy Vap and the Easy Vap Pro.


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## jtelander

JWPalmer said:


> Johno, did you ever see Lauri's video of her using a Provap on a hive? I don't have the link but I was amazed at
> how thoroughly the entire hive was covered by the "smoke" and for how long it continued to move around as the bees fanned it. But, we each need to do what we feel is best. Putting it in the middle eliminates any doubt as to coverage.


I'd appreciate more information on this video if it is available.


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## viesest

Oxalic treatment for honeybees-shown in Observation hive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1zHjIniES4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2lftDvZzfg


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## JWPalmer

This is Lauri's original post. 

https://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?350877-2018-OAV-treatment-on-Observation-hive


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## MrsDoni

I know what I want for Christmas now! 

Great thread filled with lots of information. Thanks to all.


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## Biermann

Does units are so simple, I don't know why everyone needs a video?

Well done John :thumbsup:


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## willieo

I am very interested in buying the Easy Vap Pro. Let me know what I need to do to get one. Thanks


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## johno

Willieo, you need to email me to get onto my list, at [email protected]
Johno


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## willieo

I replied 3 times hope you got it Thanks


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## dddillon

John, (or anyone who has done this)
I thinking about getting a 12v deep cycle battery and inverter for my easy vap. I have 15 hives. What AmpHour rating should I be looking at to be able to vap all hives in one session?
Or is there something other than amphour I should be looking at for this? I never really timed it, but I doubt if I'm spending more that 15 minutes with the device plugged in now.

..... and thanks for the great product. It works great.


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## johno

I would guess that a 50 amphour deep cycle battery should do the job for you, I always tend to go a little bigger rather than smaller in my choice of power. Most guys use a 500 watt inverter with the vaporizer as well and they are available at Amazon for around $30 last time I looked. The vaporizer will draw about 23 to 25 amps from your battery through the inverter which theoretically would give you an hour out of the 50 AH battery as you do not want to take it below 50% of its capacity, however Puekerts law raises its head depending on the amount of current drawn from the battery. With a draw of 25 amps you would get less than an hour but 15 hives should be treated in around 20 minutes at most.


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## johno

I forgot to mention that batteries need to be stored fully charged and then trickle charged to top up every month or so otherwise they will lose capacity pretty fast.


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## dddillon

johno said:


> I would guess that a 50 amp hour deep cycle battery should do the job for you, I always tend to go a little bigger rather than smaller in my choice of power. Most guys use a 500 watt inverter with the vaporizer as well and they are available at Amazon for around $30 last time I looked. The vaporizer will draw about 23 to 25 amps from your battery through the inverter which theoretically would give you an hour out of the 50 AH battery as you do not want to take it below 50% of its capacity, however Puekerts law raises its head depending on the amount of current drawn from the battery. With a draw of 25 amps you would get less than an hour but 15 hives should be treated in around 20 minutes at most.


Awesome info, and thanks.

this is for anyone who might know about solar power math:

My other thought was to leave the battery down at the apiary and hook up a solar panel to keep it charged. Would a 100w solar panel be sufficient to keep the battery topped off for a 5 day cycle of VAP treatments? (treating 15 hives every 5 days, for 4 cycles). I live near Richmond, Va, and the Apiary gets full sun 80% of the day.

I found this on the web about charging a deep cycle battery: *Generally a fully discharged 12 Volt 100ah battery needs 1200 watts of energy to be 100% recharged. So the calculation is 1200 / 300 = 4 hours of sunlight. 15% less efficiency, about 5 hour’s sunlight*

So being completely ignorant of solar calculations, I'm reading this as I can expect that my battery can be re-filled, given decent weather, within a few days after usage? I'm I being too naive here?


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## johno

Personally I think a 100 watt solar panel will be too big, maybe 50 watts will do the job. However no matter the size it will require a voltage regulator otherwise batteries generally get overcharged and damaged if the voltage is not regulated.


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## AHudd

xxxxxxxxxxx


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## beesohappy

Is it possible to extend the wand part so a person can treat hives sitting on na pallet without bending over? Seems like a winner to me.


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## johno

Beesohappy, the impossible takes a while and miracles take a little longer. However if you have bee space under your migratory lids you can make the 1/4" hole from the front edge of the lid going down at an angle so as to get into that bee space and treat from the top without having to bend much. I made some lids like that and used a long 1/4" bit to drill the hole from the inside and they work great.


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## aiannar974

John - are you treating only oav at this point? At one point you were going to try a year round treatment of ova. Did you do this?

Anthony


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## johno

Anthony I have treated only with OAV for the last 6 or 7 years now with yearly losses of less than 10%. Unfortunately other things have cropped up and I was unable to run some 6 hives on a weekly treatment year round.


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## Paladin Farms

When will you resume taking orders for this device? I would like to purchase one for the FEB Treatment.


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## johno

Paladin Farms said:


> When will you resume taking orders for this device? I would like to purchase one for the FEB Treatment.


Paladin Farms, thanks for your patience. I should be able to clear my backlog of orders by the end of December or Early January so please email me at [email protected] in January and I will get something to you as soon as possible


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