# Painting Supers



## John Dyer (Feb 2, 2020)

All my painted woodenware gets brushed with one coat of exterior latex white primer followed by two coats of exterior latex white paint. Is that the procedure most of you use? Also curious as to how that compares to the sprayed woodenware available from the major suppliers?


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## ifixoldhouses (Feb 27, 2019)

Oil primers best, but sometimes you want to do it quick and I'll use some 123 primer by BullsEye, that's the best latex primer. opinion based on 30 years remodeling .


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

Ifixoldhouses 
With the way the EPA has treated oil base paint in the last twenty years I don’t know how good it is anymore. I all most never see it in paint spec for Commercial painting. Their are a few good latex ones out their. I don’t think exterior in general is as good as it use to be. As far as spraying versus brush and roll. On the priming of raw wood I most times back stroke or roll paint. For the first coat. No need on top coats. I feel that filling the end grain with caulk or glue when I building boxes is important. Un less I was painting a 100 boxes I would never think of spraying them. For a dozen or so a 4” roller and brush works great.
Just a lowly 40 year paint contractor


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I use long oil primer and I add more before I base prime. That's followed by two latex topcoats or oil based topcoat if I can find it. I have sprayed latex before and it's quick and easy but I've only done it when I've built a LOT of boxes. When I do just a few, oil under a very high quality latex (it just doesn't last as long as oil) applied by hand works just fine.


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## ifixoldhouses (Feb 27, 2019)

My-smokepole said:


> Ifixoldhouses
> With the way the EPA has treated oil base paint in the last twenty years I don’t know how good it is anymore. I all most never see it in paint spec for Commercial painting. Their are a few good latex ones out their. I don’t think exterior in general is as good as it use to be. As far as spraying versus brush and roll. On the priming of raw wood I most times back stroke or roll paint. For the first coat. No need on top coats. I feel that filling the end grain with caulk or glue when I building boxes is important. Un less I was painting a 100 boxes I would never think of spraying them. For a dozen or so a 4” roller and brush works great.
> Just a lowly 40 year paint contractor


Oil paint is a pain anyway, how do you like 123 primer? I love that stuff, I use it as ceiling paint.


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

I have been using Zinsser oil based cover stain primer on my woodenware for the past two years having finally given up on the all in one paints. That is fillowed by two coats of an exterior grade semi gloss latex. Even my tops that have paint and no metal flashing are holding up well in our heat and humidity.


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## rwlaw (May 4, 2009)

Ya, i second JW’s method. I use the zinsser stain block primer for the base coat and two coats of satin exterior paint too. Some of my boxes are ten years old and they’re starting to get to point of having to getting rotated out and getting a touch up coat.


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## little_john (Aug 4, 2014)

I use whatever I can get cheap on the markets - never paid full retail price yet - oil-based (preferred) or polyurethane floor paint is what I look for.
Last good score was a couple of gallons of Dulux reduced-VOC exterior gloss paint - most peculiar stuff - has a kind of 'soapy' feel to it when it's on the brush. Hard as nails when it's dry though, and appears to holding up ok.

I give the outsides of boxes at least two coats of whatever I'm using. The insides get an extra coat as the inside of a bee box is always wetter than the outside. I also treat exposed end grain with a 100% waterproof glue.
LJ


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## Steve in PA (Jan 26, 2015)

I use oil based paint and primer mostly. I paint way more metal than wood for various projects so I just use what I have.


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## John Dyer (Feb 2, 2020)

Thanks for the replies. At our last club meeting there was an interesting discussion concerning painting methods. One local expert just brushes on a couple of coats of "whatever I have" while another gives his boxes a good spray job and never looks back. When I use up the last of my "whatever I have" paint, I will keep my eye out for some oil base bargains. Will continue with my 1/2 coats.


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## AR1 (Feb 5, 2017)

Just to note, pics of commercial hives often show really rough, old paint. Many appear not to see it as worth the money to keep boxes painted. 

I use whatever is left over from home projects, currently light greens and blues from bathroom renovations. Interior paint fades quickly on hives, naturally, but seems to stick well enough even after a few years. I scored several cans of 'line marker' paint on sale, used for painting stripes on parking lots. Looks like red barn paint. I'll know next year how well it sticks to wood!

I have some plywood hive bodies, and those need to be painted yearly or they break down.


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## Swarmhunter (Mar 5, 2015)

Are there any thoughts on whether hives should be painted at all? Seems to me that a natural breathable board would be best for hive health. I guess a lot of people have to have pretty. Quit painting mine a few years ago. Just wondering about moisture exchanges good or bad - Any thoughts?
Jerry


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## mbear (May 18, 2017)

Jerry painting the boxes makes them last longer. Personally I go to the rehab store ad buy other people castoff exterior paint for $4.00 a gallon. If you don't care about the color you can get top of the line paint real cheap. I have a bunch of different color hives out there. A couple of coats should last a decade.


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## PWD (Feb 21, 2020)

One coat of an exterior stain does it for me. Saves time vs applying paint primer and multiple paint finish coats. I like the way it looks. It will never chip or peel like paint. It will never need sanding as part of future maintenance. When it fades and gets chalky 5+ years from now I’ll give it another coat. 

Stains tend to be less expensive than paint when bought off the shelf. Like paint it can be bought at discount for mixing errors or returns.


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## Robert Holcombe (Oct 10, 2019)

I have done a little research and have a few thoughts:

1. If you paint, acrylic paint is best for moisture in a hive to "breath" - it's much more permeable than latex and oil based stuff. But is that good or bad as bees need water and comfortable RH in a hive? A little wind and a lot of moisture is lost in a hurry unless it is cold to really cold or a good wind bloc. 

2. If moisture and free water is trapped in the wood then there is the issues of "dry rot" - strange description.

3. But, if the internal hive atmosphere is kept warm than vapor pressure drives moisture out - apparently at a rate that can be managed by the bees. High internal temperatures also help the wood to reach maximum moisture content. 

4. I do not paint inside a hive box ( and never will) but I do encourage propolis inside by using rough sawn pine - good system it seems, as it is anti-bacterial and breathable while resisting condensed water formation ( gotta work on that one). Pine makes a good moisture buffering material as it can absorb a lot of water, especially at warm temperatures, and give it back . (That warm internal temperature thing keeps coming up!) 

5. If my insulation system works year round -  - I will not paint again, maybe - I think. If I do it will certainly be with acrylic paints. BM's stuff is the best I have seen - I have a lot of acrylic painted pine fence boards still going after 20 years - one good coat. 

6. I have seen a lot of dry rotted wood encased in oil lead based paints; wooden boat days.


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## Gino45 (Apr 6, 2012)

Swarmhunter said:


> Are there any thoughts on whether hives should be painted at all? Seems to me that a natural breathable board would be best for hive health. I guess a lot of people have to have pretty. Quit painting mine a few years ago. Just wondering about moisture exchanges good or bad - Any thoughts?
> Jerry


What works in one climate may not work as well in others. i paint my boxes, and my bees are quite healthy when they aren't being overrun by mites.

Oil based paint? i had to look that up. It seems very expensive to me. Enamel paints have never worked well for me. Exterior latex is what I use.

The rot, in my moist and humid climate begins around the edges and in the joints. Maybe a green dip on all edges would help boxes to last longer; however, I confess that I haven't done that in years. Also, I don't find the time and energy to repaint my used equipment.


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## little_john (Aug 4, 2014)

Robert Holcombe said:


> *I do not paint inside a hive box ( and never will) *but I do encourage propolis inside by using rough sawn pine - good system it seems, as it is anti-bacterial and breathable *while resisting condensed water formation* ( gotta work on that one).


Before dismissing this idea, you might want to consider extending your research to include Ed Clark's book on internal hive dynamics (link follows), as condensation (which returns heat to the hive) is more desirable than absorption, as such moisture subsequently undergoes evaporative cooling. 



> What the bees want is a hive that is a good condenser and that retains the condensed water on the inner surface of the hive. The nurse bees can then gather it as they want it. [...] The hive, that from years of experimenting and close observations of weather and hive conditions, gives these results, I will now try to describe. [...] All joints and cracks are filled with hot rosin or pitch and *the inside of the hivebody and cover is given three coats of varnish*.
> 
> *Ed Clark 'Constructive Beekeeping', 1918*
> 
> http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003100306


LJ


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## Jadeguppy (Jul 19, 2017)

Gino45 said it best. Regional differences need to be taken into consideration. If the humidity here isn't in the 90s, I don't know what to do. I laughed when my sister-in-law said she was surprised by how little make-up she sees on ladies around here, until she went outside in the summer and instantly started sweating and it was only 7 in the morning. Interestingly enough, my moisture problems seem to be bigger with advantech board than with plywood. I've been using mark down exterior paints with a brush. I like the suggestion of using a roller and wonder why I didn't do that in the first place.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

Ifixoldhouses. 
I loved it when it first came out. Haven’t used it in years. I have been using PPG Gripper. A lot heavier body product. 123 likes to runs for me when I spray it.


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## Robert Holcombe (Oct 10, 2019)

"more desirable than absorption," - I have to find out about the exact kinetics of water moisture absorption as a gas and the reverse action of wood drying out. The latent heat of evaporation is likely not lost especially in my current hive or enclosure design; external vapor barrier included. What is clear is a source of moisture or a "buffer" to help bees control relative humidity conditions to their liking is desirable. Loss of latent heat of evaporation is one of the issues that has driven me to eliminate top venting, leaks and wind driven affects in the upper regions of the hive and installation of an external moisture barrier  

"hot rosin or pitch" used by the author seems like an application akin to propolis otherwise it is tough to evaluate the permeability properties. I agree with the condenser comment and the possibility that it supplies a significant part of the water demand. The bottom of my hives are cold and act as a condenser. The hive's bottom volume is dominated by the by entrance and screened bottom board approach. Conclusion - I still like propolis inside, acrylic paint outside and I hated sanding boat varnish and refinishing every year.


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## little_john (Aug 4, 2014)

Robert Holcombe said:


> [...] I hated sanding boat varnish and refinishing every year.


Exactly - I'd never use varnish in such an application - that's why I use paint. 

Fwiw - I started painting the insides of bee boxes many years ago to help preserve the poor quality pallet wood I use (due to wood being very expensive over here). I ran into a barrage of criticism from those who dismissed the idea as being crazy due to bees' naturally propolising the interior of their boxes - which is perfectly true - but of course they only do this eventually, not in the first year or two of use. Much later I came across Ed Clark's book, which made me laugh - as it is so true that nothing (or at least very few things) in the world of beekeeping are ever new. 

I take issue (in the academic sense) with the whole concept of propolis being used to create a protective envelope around the cavity, as this makes little sense to me. In my view it is far more likely that this is behaviour which has it's roots in the historical occupation of rotted-out tree trunks, where propolis is applied to help preserve the wood from further rot. Indeed I sometimes wonder about the common aim of creating a dry, snug cavity, when the building materials of the honeybee are wax and propolis - both materials which I'd suggest evolution has chosen precisely because of their waterproofing qualities.

Most propolis can be found within mature brood combs - so much so that they tend to 'stink' of propolis. As bees spend most of their time on or around such combs, I'd say that it's anti-bacterial properties are far more useful in that location than on the hive walls. But - modern practice is now to remove such combs at regular intervals in view of the presence of agricultural chemicals. I sometimes wonder whether this practice is really as wise as is being claimed ...
LJ


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## Swarmhunter (Mar 5, 2015)

Hmmm- Ed Clark in his book "constructive Beekeeping" 1918 used 3 coats of varnish inside all his beehives. Internal wall condensation more important than absorption which eventually cools.


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## Swarmhunter (Mar 5, 2015)

Hmmmmm- Ed Clark in his book Constructive Beekeeping uses varnish on his hive interiors . Opting for moisture condensation not moisture absorption in the sidewalls.


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## little_john (Aug 4, 2014)

Swarmhunter - you appear to be making a point (twice) - but for the life of me I can't quite see what it is that you're saying ...
LJ


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## Swarmhunter (Mar 5, 2015)

Sorry about the double post. Didn't think the first one went through.
If the moisture condenses on the sidewalls and is used by the bees or rolls to the bottom that is what is normal. (propolis) If the interior moisture is absorbed into the sidewalls- then it will expended again as cooling. Sometimes at the wrong time of the year


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## little_john (Aug 4, 2014)

That's right. I just couldn't work out if you were agreeing, disagreeing, or maybe just puzzled. Yeah - I've also experienced that 'double-post' snafu. 

When the temperature of a surface drops below dew-point, moisture in the air will condense-out upon it, and be held there in position by the surface tension of water. I'm sure you've seen this lots of times as 'misting' on vehicle windows etc. If there's a continued build-up of this moisture, at some point the micro-droplets will coalesce and form much larger droplets, which will eventually form a full-sized drop of water - the weight of which will exceed the power of the surface tension to hold it in place on a vertical surface, and so it will run down the walls and out of the hive. Meanwhile, lots of micro-droplets will still remain for the bees to drink from.
This then amounts to a nifty system of moisture regulation - with excess moisture dropping clear out of the hive (but without taking heat with it), whilst still leaving some moisture behind for the bees to drink. 

LJ


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## Robert Holcombe (Oct 10, 2019)

"I take issue (in the academic sense) with the whole concept of propolis being used to create a protective envelope around the cavity" - some people like Dr. Seeley and Dr. Spivak, myself (a newbie) and others have provided substantial support for promoting the concept of a propolis lined hived box. We have to go back, not in time, but to definitions or descriptions of material properties so we understand each other. 

Most everything we use is permeable to water and absorbs water. Rubber compounds, polyurethanes, wood, concrete and most plastics. It is often only a question of time until the effect can be measured. Moisture content of wood varies with atmospheric conditions, temperature and relative humidity. Only metals and highly resistant plastics like polyethylene and some polypropylenes are useful barriers to moisture (think trans-Atlantic cables). In my work the effect was dielectric breakdown, especially at higher voltages and current leakage - very costly. 

Propolis has many compositions but primarily varies in the mixture of various tree sap products and bees wax. The propolis I find on comb is softer than the hard propolis I find on the side walls of a hive. I had sixteen new supers made from rough sawn pine this past season, admittedly a good season, and all supers were propolized with my canvass inner covers being heavily propolized. Propolis provides unusual characteristics with reference to water (I will continue to verify all this). It is permeable to water vapor but not condensed water. It retards the rate at which water vapor permeates the film and undergoes sorption by cellulose. It also inhibits bacterial growth or dry rot. There are references to it's unusual surface properties and the effects on condensation (I have to get a better handle on moisture content versus "free water". Not to be ignored is the specific heat of the surface and substances involved. It is fairly easy to heat up a cellulose surface with the latent heat of evaporation (when condensing water vapor) as compared to a metal surface, etc. 

I am not sure what is more important in a hive. Supporting relative humidity requirements inside a hive or free water. What I do see, now that I have altered basic modern Langstroth hives, is stability of relative humidity and temperature in the upper reaches of a hives and seemingly independent of outside ambient or high rates of change . What has stunned me is the steady consistent readings (within the tolerances of the sensors) in three different colony sizes and history and six more with just temperature monitors at the top of the hive - all in the same hive configuration. I have also seen one hive's weight go up and now back down with the excessive wet weather we have had. Yet, no hive is dripping wet nor damp to the point of mold growth. Average relative humidities above the brood nest are centered around 75-85% at about 70F. As all hives have reduced their weights by about 40 lb. now, 3.5 gallons of water form metabolism has essential disappeared into thin air. My ambients have oscillated between 20F to 40F most of this very wet winter -no snow   

Now, my hive design dictates surface finishes. My outer rain - wind shell in essentially impermeable on five sides - bottom exit are is exposed to the external ambient. The shell has very slow water vapor permeation rates due to the material and thickness of insulation. The hive boxes are buffers or like sponges as the inside is permeable porpolis and kept warm at a high Rh by the bees (higher the temperature the higher the moisture content of the wood). I could use unpainted wood boxes as they are shielded from rain, wind and sun but I started off with white acrylic paint ( fortunately). How bees use various forms of propolis is a study in itself. After two years of novice experimenting I stick with my hypothesis. Given the opportunity by enclosure design honey bees will attain homeostasis controlled and varied by them slowly; honeybees modulate the inner dew point to prevent condensation above the cluster by raising and lowering the inner hive's upper temperatures. Crazy, eh!


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## little_john (Aug 4, 2014)

Robert Holcombe said:


> "I take issue (in the academic sense) with the whole concept of propolis being used to create a protective envelope around the cavity" - some people like Dr. Seeley and Dr. Spivak, myself (a newbie) and others have provided substantial support for promoting the concept of a propolis lined hived box.


Sure, but just show me one single grain of hard evidence to support this idea - no matter how persuasive it may be. I'm indebted to Grozzie who, in another thread, quoted this gem: "One measured test result is worth a thousand expert opinions".

One example of this (which I'll be posting about shortly) is an experiment I've just uncovered which contradicts the claim that the gaps around framed combs - which have troubled expert beekeepers ever since Langstroth's day - are responsible for adverse cooling of the cluster during winter. There are even some 'Natural Beekeepers' who condemn the use of frames because of this. But no matter how persuasive their claims are, experimental evidence - counter-intuitive as this may be - tells a quite different story. Extraordinary.
LJ


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

My take is that: One measured test result is equivalent in worth to one expert opinion.
No more, no less.


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## Cloverdale (Mar 26, 2012)

I use latex paint, one coat.


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## little_john (Aug 4, 2014)

clyderoad said:


> My take is that: One measured test result is equivalent in worth to one expert opinion.
> No more, no less.


You *cannot* be serious ...
Before Samuel Ramsey conducted his series of experiments, the opinion of countless numbers of experts world-wide was that the Varroa mite fed from the haemolymph of the honeybee. Are you suggesting that Ramsey's discovery is equal only to one of those expert opinions ?
LJ


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

little_john said:


> You *cannot* be serious ...
> Before Samuel Ramsey conducted his series of experiments, the opinion of countless numbers of experts world-wide was that the Varroa mite fed from the haemolymph of the honeybee. Are you suggesting that Ramsey's discovery is equal only to one of those expert opinions ?
> LJ


Serious? Yes.
Let me explain.

First off, A series of experiments is not one measured test, now is it?

Further, the 'opinion of countless numbers of experts' in the case you cite was nothing more than countless experts simply regurgitating the same misinformation over and over. Not opinions formed after contemplation, but a simple regurgitation of one anecdotal statement- mites feed on hemolymph. 
Good for Ramsey to have picked up on this and followed through with his investigations (plural).


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## clyderoad (Jun 10, 2012)

For painting, one coat of primer, 2 coats of exterior paint. Bush on unless I have many dozens to do then I spray them.
Doesn't matter to me whether it's oil base or latex, the corners get beat up no matter the paint. Color doesn't matter either nor brand name.
Exterior surfaces only, no paint inside.


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## Swarmhunter (Mar 5, 2015)

OK- I'm putting together a two dozen hives and I'm completely dedicated to doing it as close to natural beehives as can be done with Langstroth hives. 2" Thick insulation on top and 1" on sides . No unnatural vent holes top or bottom. et


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## Swarmhunter (Mar 5, 2015)

Sorry I'll finish--Do I paint the outside of the hive? Do I paint the inside the hive?
Sorry about the thread screw up
Jerry


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## Robert Holcombe (Oct 10, 2019)

Why?


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## Robert Holcombe (Oct 10, 2019)

"single grain of hard evidence to support this idea" - provided by observation or test? If by testing, measured testing and observational testing, one has to define the goal or requirement that needs to be met. Therein lies the rub. Everything seems to affect hive performance; wind, rain, temperature, relative humidity, sun, rates of change, size of cluster, type of honeybee, genetics, changing seasons, availability of nectar, pollen, water and elements, type of propolis and paint. There must be more issues like mold types, viruses and invasion of other living organisms like Varroa mites, bears and so on. It is no wonder there are such diverse opinions based on observations. 

After 5 years winters, starting off with a "naked" Langstroth then changing configurations progressively each year, I have concluded the requirement is 4 season homeostasis for the local region. In the USA, the needs in southern Florida differ from Rhode Island but likely. Trees seemingly are common to most areas so that provides a starting point for examination.

I offer my single grain of evidence in support of propolis. I have yet to see mold growing on the sides of my hive boxes but at times I find blue mold on comb. I have not seen propolis on comb. Apparently the moisture content of propolis at saturation levels and free water availability on the surface of propolis does not support mold growth. I have seen it on paint - often. Now the question is what are the pros and cons of growing mold. 

Apparently another grain of support is the apparent establishment of temperature and relative humidity control by the bees within a hive environment - not just the internal cluster. Does paint affect moisture control and how does it work is your hive design - got numerical test data?

Can someone define parameters for homeostasis over 4 seasons? I do not presume to know but building up definition. The first is slow or little reaction to external environment changes second is easy adaptation to seasonal changes. Both imply reduced stress on the colony. Does painting inside a hive box help. The unanimous opinion around this local is "never" paint the inside surface of a hive box. This colony has only been beekeeping since 1620.

I look forward to the hearing about the "gap" test results, especially the model used.


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## Cloverdale (Mar 26, 2012)

RH “ After 5 years winters, starting off with a "naked" Langstroth then changing configurations progressively each year, I have concluded the requirement is 4 season homeostasis for the local region. In the USA, the needs in southern Florida differ from Rhode Island but likely. Trees seemingly are common to most areas so that provides a starting point for examination.”

Agree; but, no matter where the bees are living, whether managed by a beekeeper or not, south, north, tropics, etc. homeostasis is. I believe that is part of honey bee biology (probably not the correct term but you know what I mean)
Swarmhunter: Think of what honey bees do; honey bee biology answers most questions. Bees find all sorts of homes when they swarm, some very surprising like the inside of a metal garbage can to plastic soffits, in walls where insulation is etc. But they do prefer trees, so think of painting the inside of a hive to their preferred home, that should answer your question...


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## Pchristu (Aug 10, 2016)

I pretreat endgrain with Titebond 3, rubbed in, recoat when dry. Paint:1st coat: Zinsser 1-2-3 latex primer; if it seems to absorb, I repeat. Then 2 coats exterior latex. Oil-based might be better, but too messy for me; oldest boxes are 5 years; no rot or peeling. Inside I coat with propolis tincture, except OSB which gets “painted” with very hot paraffin, with extra into all corners and crevices.


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## j2t (Jun 26, 2019)

Stain Primer as the undercoat, then 2 coats of Stain on top. Happy to report back on how long
these weather in the Northeast...but it will be many years....

Jared


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## OBG (Jun 16, 2013)

Fun topic. I’ve primed existing and new with zinzer, then use either the latex mis-tints from the big box stores until last year, when I started painting them with rustoleum spray enamel. I paint the active colonies’ boxes on the stands too, on cool days, without any obvious ill effect on the bees. I figure the propolis envelope blocks the CFCs (fumes) out. I use a sheet of plastic foundation as a guide and paint every super and hive body a different color. Looks like legos this year. Lots of room out there to try different things.


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## Amibusiness (Oct 3, 2016)

I have done a bunch of different things, including just raw wood. I have never repainted except: for the past few years I have been using EcoWood (kelley's). I did stain it on old equipment as well as new. It is supposed to work well but I don't have enough time into it to know yet.... I find the old latex boxes give out in the corners where the surface of the wood is still fine. The unpainted corners hold up better and the whole piece of wood deteriorates at the same rate. Some boxes were not glued and unpainted warp more (and need to be reglued). (As far as I can tell BM did not glue their resource hives which they only sold assembled...!) So far I have not had to throw out any boxes under 20 years old. Some boxes got torn apart by bear, I glued them. Some boxes didn't have glue: when the corners pull far enough apart I glue them. Does the paint make enough of a difference in longevity to be worth the time, hassle, and expense? For a $10 box? For me in upstate NY I'm not sure, but the EcoWood is quick enough (1 coat) that I still use it. If doing a lot of boxes they can be dipped too. I have not seen pollen coming in yet but others near me have. Hang in there, northerners, spring will come 🙂


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## Eaglerock (Jul 8, 2008)

John Dyer said:


> All my painted woodenware gets brushed with one coat of exterior latex white primer followed by two coats of exterior latex white paint. Is that the procedure most of you use? Also curious as to how that compares to the sprayed woodenware available from the major suppliers?



2 coats Primer and 2 to sometimes 3 coats of paint. Use a light color paint as darker colors make the hive hotter inside during the summer.


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## Malte Niemeyer (Feb 23, 2020)

Hello,

we use linseed oil with some pigment in it. 10 % pigment. The Pigment reflecting sunlight and keep thieves away because in green or brown. Its cheap and 2 layers are enought. 

I thing the supers or brood boxes are not rotting from the surface, the issue is the contact are between the boxes or between Broodbox and bottom board. So I ussualy dip the bottom ob the boxes in hot wax. 

The other sulotion we use is technical instead of chemical prevention from rotting. Place a metal roof on top of the hives during winter season and place some concrete blocks underneath the migratory palett. This will keep moisture away.

best regarts,

Malte Niemeyer

Sorry for my bad english...


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## B-NewBBB (Apr 9, 2014)

Malte Niemeyer said:


> Hello,
> 
> we use linseed oil with some pigment in it. 10 % pigment. The Pigment reflecting sunlight and keep thieves away because in green or brown. Its cheap and 2 layers are enought.
> 
> ...


I use these types of wood treatment options. Makes wood look so rustic. Apply once & forget. Safe for beehives. Mix powder with water, easy, mix small amount. Very little goes a long way. Give it a few weeks to mature, usually looks like nothing at first, be patient.

https://www.harmlesssolutions.co.nz/eco-wood-treatment.html

https://ardec.ca/en/p/351/lifetime-wood-treatment

https://tallearth.com

There are lots more like this. Poke about with your browser. Us'n who use these never seem to use regular paint & other traditional coatings.

Thass all.

DH


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## sweetas (Apr 16, 2012)

John Dyer said:


> All my painted woodenware gets brushed with one coat of exterior latex white primer followed by two coats of exterior latex white paint. Is that the procedure most of you use? Also curious as to how that compares to the sprayed woodenware available from the major suppliers?


I use two processes
I give the boxes a good coat of 70% raw linseed oil/30% turpentine to initially coat the wood.
Let dry for a couple of weeks.
On the outside, two coats of good water based exterior paint. After eight years the insides of the boxes look brand new.

I also treat my wood frames with the linseed/turps mix.

T


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