# Feeder Opinions



## nediver (May 26, 2013)

Hello All,

I am looking to try and settle on a feeder option for my bees to make things easy, efficient, and cost effective (in that order).

I have my backyard and a few out yards and growing. I would like to settle on something and not change course, my "trial and errors" of bee equipment are piling up in storage.

Things I have tried: Boardman (out), Baggie (out), mason jars inside hive...this is my current method (fill too frequently, don't like wasting a box). 

Need to feed: Nucs and Hives

I would like to be able to drive to an outyard and mix syrup in a bucket with electric drill or pre-purchased syrup. I have a full time job and drive ALOT for work and don't really want glass in my truck. Ideally a gallon or two at a time.

Current options (concerns) based on searching forums: Pail Feeder (spills), Bucket/paint can with holes (extra box), mason jar through top cover (glass, $ for large jar, drilled hole in top cover), frame feeder (drowning), top feeder ($, drowning)

I have never used frame feeders but am leaning heavily towards the Pro Feeder from Mann lake at the moment.

Thoughts and many thanks?


----------



## Learning2Bee (Jan 20, 2016)

I'd probably just do the 5 gallon buckets flipped over with hole around the rim. If you don't want spilling just buy some bucket seals like these.>https://www.dadant.com/catalog/m00214-honey-tight-lid Although, with the (2)5 gallon bucket method I wouldn't worry about 
This would be a community feeding option, quick, easy, cheap, clean, it gets the job done. 

Only problem is you shouldn't put it in yards that have hives with honey supers; due to the fact that you'll get that (mmm mm) sugar syrup honey. Haha


----------



## rolftonbees (Jul 10, 2014)

I have used front entrance feeders with good experience however because so many experience beekeepers report Robin I am staying away from them.

I have used plastic bags with success I think they are good for winter feeding because they sit above the cluster.

This year I found three frame feeders on sale for $3 each I tried to them and was very pleased with using them.

With the frame feeders you can simply slide one box ajar insert a funnel and fill without opening the high very much. A-frame feeder holds quite a bit more than the other options you mentioned so it's more efficient in terms of Labor.


----------



## SAS (Sep 4, 2015)

I have also been searching for the best feeder that suits my needs, and have tried some of the feeders you have described. And I too am a cumulating a surplus of feeders that I don't use any more.

The one I use the most now, is the Brushy Mountains plastic hive top feeder. It holds up to 2-gallons, and I can fill the feeder without drowning a bunch of bees, or suit-up. I just left the top, fill the feeder and I'm done in a very short time.
I do still get some drowned bees, but not as many as I did with their wood hive top feeder. 

As for the Pro Feeder, there is a commercial beekeeper that lives near me, and has over 3000 hives. He really likes, and uses the Mann Lake Pro Feeder in the 2 gallon size. He hauls a large tote of syrup in the back of his truck with a pump, and is able to fill a number of hive in a short amount of time.

I hope this helps?


----------



## Chester5731 (Jan 11, 2016)

I use frame feeders. They hold a gallon in a deep box. I fan folded no. 8 screen in them so the bees can climb up and down. Has worked good for me.


----------



## papaz (Nov 27, 2015)

The Mann Lake Pro feeders are really good, I have several, no drowning and work really well


----------



## nediver (May 26, 2013)

Thank you everyone. I think I will give the frame feeders a try.


----------



## Bkwoodsbees (Feb 8, 2014)

When ever you use a boardman or entrance feeder make sure the feeder is all the way to one side. Then push a solid entrance reducer against the feeder so the feeder will be on one side and the entrance to hive will be on the other side. The entrance into hive should be no more than a couple inches. I have used the boardman feeders this way with no problems with robbing. Robert


----------



## Armstrong and Family (Dec 24, 2016)

In my opinion, 2 gallon bucket feeders are the way to go. They do take up an extra hive body when placed on top, but bees will always go up to feed. The problem with frame feeders, is that it can be hard to get syrup to them. You have to suit up, open up the hive to get feed on. Plus, pouring syrup into frames is harder than buckets because of the smaller openings. If your yards ever get muddy, you can always carry buckets in by hand, and placed on the hive. With Frame feeders, you could carry buckets of syrup into the yard, and then re-pour into the frames, but that takes extra time that could be spent elsewhere. 

In the end, as long as your happy and you get feed on them, that's what really matters.

Robbie


----------



## Farmercal (May 19, 2015)

Nediver, frame feeders are excellent but be careful with them. I found tons of dead bees in one last year. It wasn't the feeder design but the fact that the weight of the syrup spread the sides and a portion of the top split awy from the sides. The bees went in this opening and could not climb back out the slick plastic sides. I still use these feeders but have modified them by drilling small holes on the sides and top and zip tied the top to feeder sides to prevent that from ever happening again. It was a little bit of work but I sleep better at night because of it.


----------



## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

my feeding needs to not kill bees. open feeding is asking for trouble. never saw a bald faced hornet in 30 years till I put out a bucket for open feeding. My frame feeders always kill no matter what I tried so I switched to plastic hive top. zero dead. I do put a box around it. plus the price is reasonable from brushy mountain. I really need the 2 gallons for my outyards and for my home yard I got sick of trying to open mason jars glued down with propolyis. I have a modified inner cover for my nucs that allows support for it.
only downside is if they have not consumed it when you get there you are trying to move 2 gallons of fluid. never easy.


----------



## rolftonbees (Jul 10, 2014)

my frame feeders have floating bars in them and the inside walls are textured with treads. I have seen no dead bees.


----------



## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

I am trying something new this year that has worked very well so far. I have taken a 1/8" ID copper tubing about 1" long and drilled a 1/4" hole in a wide-mouthed Mason Jar lid. I soldered the tubing to the lid. I then drill a 3/8" hole in my Migratory cover. I bought 1/2 gallon wide-mouthed jars and invert 1/2 gallon of syrup on top of the lid. I use wide-mouthed for greater stability. The advantages to me are: (1) I don't use an extra box; (2) I can immediately see how much feed is left; (3) I do not have to get into my hives to feed; (4) I can take a piece of burr comb and plug the hole in the migratory cover when I am done, or just let the bees propolize the hole and I am back to a water-tight hive.

As an added note, I will place a small amount of solder partially across the tip of the 1/8" tubing because I think it helps the vacuum effect (smaller hole).

I plan on experimenting with some smaller plastic tubing (1/16" ID) and silicone.


----------



## dlbrightjr (Dec 8, 2015)

I tried every common feeding option last year. I am gone from 7 am to after 7 pm 4-5 days a week so I needed the quickest and easiest method of feeding. I also fed almost daily from March 31 thru the end of December last year. Packages, nucs, and multiple splits. By far the best for me was copper tubing soldered on mason jar lids. I could take 1 gallon jugs of syrup out late at night fill the jars and place them on the hives without bothering the bees. The also work well when punched thru a jester nuc or cardboard nuc for emergency feeding. It is not possible to feed multiple hives correctly with community feeders. I did use a 32 jar community feeder I made occasionally. I am fixing to use it again for just a little stimulative feeding. However, some will begin to become honey bound and some will not be getting the feed they need and will eventually need individual feeding. You will find all the information on here with a search. Good luck


----------



## shinbone (Jul 5, 2011)

I've also tried pretty much every feeder out there. I have even ordered some from Euorpe to try. Most always kill a lot of bees.

For now, the best I have found is an inverted jar over the hole in the innner cover. No robbing or dead bees. The cluster can always reach the syrup. I don't feed my neighbor's bees. Easy to change. I use a jar that holds 1.25 gallons.


----------



## adson (Nov 25, 2009)

```

```
I copied the design from the ones that fatbeeman makes , entrance is all enclosed in screen.
But instead of a dish for the liquid I seal the wood tray. Holds as much as you want depending on how deep you make them. Never have any dead bees, can be filled without dealing with opening the hive. I make nuc versions too that help keep down the robbing on the nucs.


----------



## Slow Drone (Apr 19, 2014)

adson said:


> ```
> 
> ```
> I copied the design from the ones that fatbeeman makes , entrance is all enclosed in screen.
> But instead of a dish for the liquid I seal the wood tray. Holds as much as you want depending on how deep you make them. Never have any dead bees, can be filled without dealing with opening the hive. I make nuc versions too that help keep down the robbing on the nucs too.


What are you using for a sealer?


----------



## adson (Nov 25, 2009)

I seal the joints with epoxy , most of the wood can be seal with urethane etc
photo added


----------



## Slow Drone (Apr 19, 2014)

adson said:


> I seal the joints with epoxy , most of the wood can be seal with urethane etc
> photo added
> 
> View attachment 30876


Thanks!


----------



## Peter Montague (Feb 23, 2016)

I switched last year to the gallon paint cans that M.P. recommends and love it. When feeding for winter you can get 5 on the inner cover of a 10 frame box. I run only mediums so I made a shim to extend a medium box to the depth of a deep, this gives the extra height to cover the feeders. I can also get 2 on my nucs, again with a shim to extend the medium nuc to a deep. I also have a full time job so time is more limited than I would like it to be.


----------



## nediver (May 26, 2013)

Peter Montague said:


> I switched last year to the gallon paint cans that M.P. recommends and love it. When feeding for winter you can get 5 on the inner cover of a 10 frame box. I run only mediums so I made a shim to extend a medium box to the depth of a deep, this gives the extra height to cover the feeders. I can also get 2 on my nucs, again with a shim to extend the medium nuc to a deep. I also have a full time job so time is more limited than I would like it to be.


Drill or nail for holes? How many and size?


----------



## Peter Montague (Feb 23, 2016)

I started drilling 4, 1/16" holes and they were too big. On most of them I had to use propolis to block at least 1 if not 2 holes. If doing it again I would start with smaller holes and check to see how its holding the feed after each one to figure out the right number.


----------



## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

I have a freind that swears by ice pick for making holes. So, Ice pick sized holes.
gww


----------



## Peter Montague (Feb 23, 2016)

The shank of an icepick or awl is probably between 1/8-1/4" but I bet the point would work well to get a tiny hole if you don't tap it too hard. This would be easier than a smaler drill bit as they break real easy. Ill have to try that next time, thanks


----------



## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

I'm a huge fan of these. Minimal to no drownings (unless the lid isn't sealed). They're not cheap but they work well. I've got well over 30 of them (10-frame and nucs combined). Lets you drop in a couple gallons (assuming the hive is flat). It'll take a couple days for them to process that so you refill every 2 days. Allows you to review and refill with high quantities quickly with no hive disruption.
http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Plastic-10-Frame-Hive-Top-Feeder/productinfo/423/


----------



## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

I've tried several different types of feeders, and I've settled on 1 gallon chick waterers. A length of 3/4" nylon rope in the tray keeps the bees from drowning. It's easy to replace when empty. Remove the empty feeder, set a new filled feeder in it's place. 

In cooler weather, when the bees typically won't venture too far from the cluster up into a top feeder, you can place the waterer right on the top bars and move the inner cover above.

I know it takes an extra empty box to feed this way, but that's not a big deal for me. Takes 2 seconds to add it, and 2 seconds to remove it when I'm done with the feeding.


----------



## tpope (Mar 1, 2015)

I use both the homemade version of the hive top feeder and the frame feeder with the ladders myself. I have seen a few dead bees with both... but let's think for a minute.. Reckon how many bees die while foraging on the trees and other flowering plants?


----------



## Bob J (Feb 25, 2013)

Peter Montague said:


> I switched last year to the gallon paint cans that M.P. recommends and love it. When feeding for winter you can get 5 on the inner cover of a 10 frame box. I run only mediums so I made a shim to extend a medium box to the depth of a deep, this gives the extra height to cover the feeders. I can also get 2 on my nucs, again with a shim to extend the medium nuc to a deep. I also have a full time job so time is more limited than I would like it to be.


+1 on these..... 5 or so 4p or smaller nail holes in a circle near the center of the lid works for me. Easy to put on/take off.... Scalable (up to 5 can be fit at a time) and no drowned bees... Keeps the syrup clean as well, particularly if you sterilize with hot water before filling.... Get the cans that have the epoxy liner to prevent corrosion.... Use a rubber mallet to ensure the lids are on well and do a "drip test" outside the hives just to make sure there are no leaks before putting them on.... I use an empty deep to cover them....


----------



## R.Varian (Jan 14, 2014)

We use an ice pick for holes, only use the point not all the way in or the hole will be to large.


----------



## enus75 (Aug 3, 2014)

what size box do you use? I was thinking of going that way, found small dish pans at Walmart for $.97 @ was wondering if med box was too tight.


----------



## Jackam (Jun 3, 2013)

No love in this thread for a good old hive top feeder?


----------



## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

enus75 said:


> what size box do you use? I was thinking of going that way, found small dish pans at Walmart for $.97 @ was wondering if med box was too tight.


if you use an open top like a pan or such........pack in straw. don't just lay some in or you'll have thousands dead. its sad. also you might want to invest in a hive top feeder that won't get you stung filling it. opening the hive with what you are describing and you'll be covered.


----------



## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

Jackam said:


> No love in this thread for a good old hive top feeder?
> 
> View attachment 31486


I bought the plastic ones with a hole in the middle. love them. zero deaths. holds two gallons. however last year as the hives were light and weather turned quick they needed to add a lot of weight. the hive top......even if set on the top of the frames inside the hive...they would not take it as quick as with gallon cans. mike palmer thought it was surface area available from 4 paint cans vs a 2 inch hole where only x number can be on them. going to use the plastic until the fall when i'll use paint cans for 2-1.


----------



## North Hadley (May 10, 2015)

Slow Drone said:


> What are you using for a sealer?


I use bees wax Coat the whole interior with it .
I also use one similar to FatBee Man


----------



## iabeesteve (Mar 12, 2017)

New to beekeeping but my local person here recommends and uses this type. 

Pro and cons?

https://www.lappesbeesupply.com/9-5-8-deep-in-hive-feeder-with-cap-and-ladders/

This is a brand new hive and starting with caged bees.

Steve


----------



## ekosman (Feb 24, 2016)

Last year was my first. We used the frame feeder in all the hives and had lots of troubles with beetles camping out when not in use. They also got thick behind them.


----------



## Bluto (Feb 19, 2017)

First, I speak from absolutely zero experience. That said, I attended a class yestereday where this topic was covered at some length and examples shown. The overall favorite of the instructor, at least, appeared to be one similar to the one pictured below. I am only using this particular photo as it is similar to the preferred feeder, I know nothing about the company who is selling this feeder.


----------



## BeeDakota (Oct 9, 2016)

Jackam said:


> No love in this thread for a good old hive top feeder?
> 
> View attachment 31486


I used these last year, (my first year) and had tons of dead bees every time I checked them. The entire surface would be covered in dead bees.


----------



## Jackam (Jun 3, 2013)

BeeDakota said:


> I used these last year, (my first year) and had tons of dead bees every time I checked them. The entire surface would be covered in dead bees.


Three reasons that might have caused your problem:


You did not seal the seams of the screen to stop bees from entering "no-bee land."
You used an inner cover on top with a notched opening, allowing bees into "no-bee land."
Your cover didn't fit snug to the plastic tray part of the feeder, allowing bees to enter "no-bee land."


----------



## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

Jackam said:


> No love in this thread for a good old hive top feeder?
> 
> View attachment 31486


No need to use the rest when you have the best. Real is easy to use, no dead bees, lots of food quickly. Just do not leave it on without checking as the bees will do what they are suppose to and fill in space with comb if you give them time.


----------



## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

BeeDakota said:


> I used these last year, (my first year) and had tons of dead bees every time I checked them. The entire surface would be covered in dead bees.


Need to know more about what happen. I have never seen or had any dead bees when using this feeder. Must have done something that allowed your bees in to the feeder. Hope you find out what the problem is and can can get it fixed. In not and you want to get rid of the ones you have let me know.


----------



## tazke (Mar 23, 2015)

I have tried just about every feeder. They all hive plus and minuses. I do open feed occasionally with some large 7gl containers I got someplace. Holes drilled between the threads fill the gap between the container and lid. Work great.
I have a bunch of ML frame feeders but dang it needs to be new frames or you need to scrape every frame. Very tight fit.
For on hive I have settled on angel food cake pans through a hole in a 3/8 plywood. A plastic cup inverted over the center make it work well. Cost a box but I have plenty and saves me storage room. I used to use the plastic disposable ones but found a great deal on a pallet of used metal ones.


----------



## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

tazke can you post a picture? Would like to see what you are using. Thanks.


----------



## tazke (Mar 23, 2015)

Some of them have a but of a lip on the inside hole they don't seem to like. I will take care of those when i have time.


----------

