# How to best move a split from a Snelgrove (double screen)?



## Matt_inSC (May 12, 2015)

Bumping this one up in hopes a weekend reader sees it and replies.


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## wwfoste (Jul 19, 2014)

I used a snelgrove board on one of my dad's hives that had swarmed. Once both halves had raised a new queen, I took the top part and put it on a bottom board. I then took the snelgrove board off, shook the bees off, and put the top on the bottom half. I then set the top half with its new bottom board on top of the 1st hive (facing the same way the snelgrove board was). Worked pretty well. Just came back another day early in the morning and moved the hive on top.


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## orthoman (Feb 23, 2013)

I am interested in using the Snelgrove board so I want to follow your post. 

To make the transfer, I think I would have waited until evening or early morning so the bees would mostly all be home. Then, pull the box that was above the Snelgrove board off of the Snelgrove board and, done pretty much what you did. That is, turned a telescoping cover upside down, placed the box in it, then placed an inner cover and telescoping cover on top, secure it with ratchet straps and move it to another apiary. I guess, you could also use the snelgrove board as a bottom during the move as long as the doors were taped closed.

At the new apiary, I would remove the bottom inverted telesoping cover and place the box on a new bottom board with entrance reducer.

Because you are done with the Snelgrove Board, pull the Snelgrove Board off, and give the lower hive an inner cover and telescoping cover.


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## Matt_inSC (May 12, 2015)

Thanks for the replies. I did indeed do this early morning but still more activity than I hoped. I guess the challenge is doing the manipulation/move when all the bees are home means doing it when they're defensive. 
In retrospect, I like wwfoste's method of removing the Snelgrove on day 1 and leaving the hive on bottom board in essentially the same position. Doing that during the day would most likely been less disruptive with lots of bees outside the hive. Then plugging and moving the top hive to new location the following morning. Thanks for sharing, wwfoste.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

Yes to the day before changes! I like to change over equipment then set them with the same entrance orientation ahead of the time of the actual move. It gives them time to settle down and no surprises happen at move time. I have lifted the division board and top hive body completely to resuper or inspect lower colony and was suprised the first time, by all the bees from the lower colony hanging onto the bottom of the division board. They are guard bees too for the lower colony.

When you switch hive boxes or bottoms from one colony to the other it puts the bees in the position of entering a foreign smelling hive, even if it is in the right location. It confuses them. Better do that ahead of time instead of moving day if possible. If you use hive staples to hold multiple boxes together, you will know the bees dont like you hammering them in! Especially if it is just about dark!


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## razerback55 (Apr 12, 2015)

I don't understand the need for Snelgrove board in july, I thought it was to share heat from the mother hive.
Just make your 10 and 10 split and after you get a laying queen move like any other hive.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

razerback55 said:


> I don't understand the need for Snelgrove board in july, I thought it was to share heat from the mother hive.
> Just make your 10 and 10 split and after you get a laying queen move like any other hive.


Well they do have some finer points that could well be used in July. The warmth factor is one of their lesser potential benefits. I had mine off by the end of June this year because I did not need any more splits or queen cells. I could still put one on now and get started cells. 

It is past the time that I need their swarm control feature though.


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## Matt_inSC (May 12, 2015)

razerback55 said:


> I don't understand the need for Snelgrove board in july, I thought it was to share heat from the mother hive.
> Just make your 10 and 10 split and after you get a laying queen move like any other hive.


My understanding of the Snelgrove is it allows reintroduction of the split bees if needed, such as no queen created, etc. (among its other benefits).


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

Matt_inSC said:


> My understanding of the Snelgrove is it allows reintroduction of the split bees if needed, such as no queen created, etc. (among its other benefits).


This year I split off 7 nucs and requeened all original hives. Some years I have just used them as swarm control and at the end of swarm time, pulled the division board out and assumed the young queen from up top went down and deposed her mother, which is usual outcome. Mark one or the other if you want to be sure or find the old queen and pull her out if you want to keep her.

http://beespoke.info/2014/05/23/book-review-snelgrove-swarming-its-prevention-and-control/


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## Mefco (Oct 16, 2015)

I like to use double screen boards to move hives, one on top and one on bottom, close gates, tape for extra security, ratchet together, it makes a nice flush block, put on blocks in pickup for air circulation underneath, move to new location, put as is on bottom board, telescoping cover in place, open bottom gates, leave it for a day or 2, then remove both top and bottom screen and put on bottom board.
Works for me, seems to keep bees from leaking out


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