# Les Crowder Hive



## Ravenzero (Sep 26, 2012)

I did phils plans from biobees.com because I am not as good of a wood worker and didnt have to do any angle cuts. Make this hive in a snap!


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## Riskybizz (Mar 12, 2010)

Deknow

Les Crowder AKA the New Mexico top bar guru has quite a following of purists in this area. Not one would dare question the specific design criteria, size, shapes or dimensions of his bee house. Shame on you, Les will surely be mortified.


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

Riskybizz said:


> Deknow
> Les Crowder AKA the New Mexico top bar guru has quite a following of purists in this area. Not one would dare question the specific design criteria, size, shapes or dimensions of his bee house. Shame on you, Les will surely be mortified.


Um...ok. I don't think Les had an objection when Ramona told him I was going to redreaw/tweak his design. I sent him a copy before I posted it here as well.

I'm sure his drawing is well suited for his setup and needs. I wanted something that was repeatable for me, with my setup and my approach. I started with his plan, kept what I think are the important dimensions, made the bottom sit flat, and made it actually measure 120 degrees.

I can make a follower board for a hive built to my drawings without seeing the hive. I don't think I could do the same with one built to his drawings without some custom fitting.

I'm sure Les will tell me if he thinks any of my changes bother him when he comes to speak at our conference in July.

deknow


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

The only actual change that affects the shape/volume of the hive is to add just over 1/2" to the top of the trapezoidal end pieces....making the angles actually measure 120degrees.

deknow


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## rhaldridge (Dec 17, 2012)

Dean did you consider a Tanzanian hive? Michael Bush says these develop no more side attachment then the trapezoidal hives, and if you make them the right width and depth, you can switch comb between the top bar and Lang hives. Unfortunately, I made my first top bar to Michael's trapezoidal plans, so in order to split to it, I'm having to go through extra shenanigans, like wiring my top bars to the Lang frames in the hive I want to split from.


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## Riskybizz (Mar 12, 2010)

Dean

I am sure you are aware of the expression tongue in cheek, my post was intended as such. I know Les pretty well and he's a good guy. If you lived in Santa Fe and went to a couple top bar keekeeping meetings you could then read into my post. For the record I am not a TB enthusist as I have always kept my bees in conventional equipment. 

"Tongue-in-cheek is a phrase used as a figure of speech to imply that a statement or other production is humorously or otherwise not seriously intended and it should not be taken at face value. "


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## shannonswyatt (May 7, 2012)

I make mine like this. Cut the boards to the desired inside length of the hive, the sides are 1x12's the bottom a 1x8, then rip the edge of the sides to 30 degrees. One the bottom rip both sides 30 degrees as well. At this point I nail and glue up the sides and bottom. I made a little jig to hold everything in place. I use a ratchet strap to hold the sides in place so I can nail the sides and bottom to each other. I then cut the end and nail it in place. The only measurement in the process is the length. The jig is basically follower boards, so my hives have the same overall size. The only hard part in the whole thing is getting the first nail or two in place. I would like to get a few pieces of metal angle iron or something that are cut and welded at 120 degrees that I could use to clamp the hives when gluing/nailing. Place one on the inside, one on the outside and then use C clamps to hold them. Then I wouldn't need the ratchet straps. I found some adjustable clamps that cabinet makers use, but they are way too expensive.


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

Yes, I know there are a lot of approaches.

My motivation for looking at Les's model, is that he has done some experimentation to arrive at his specific size, and more importantly, he speaks (and writes) authoritatively about how to manage the hive specifically for honey production. Since we wanted to look more closely at his management (by working with it), we thought we should use his hive...or approximately his hive.

deknow


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## dnichols (May 28, 2012)

Riskybizz said:


> Dean
> 
> I am sure you are aware of the expression tongue in cheek, my post was intended as such. I know Les pretty well and he's a good guy. If you lived in Santa Fe and went to a couple top bar keekeeping meetings you could then read into my post. For the record I am not a TB enthusist as I have always kept my bees in conventional equipment.
> 
> "Tongue-in-cheek is a phrase used as a figure of speech to imply that a statement or other production is humorously or otherwise not seriously intended and it should not be taken at face value. "


Hey Riskybizz, I read it like "tongue and cheek" but maybe next time use a smiley face or something. Like this.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Nine plans, Dean!

> I am sure you are aware of the expression tongue in cheek, my post was intended as such.

Just don't make any comments, _tongue in cheek _- or not, about _RiskyBizz _and watching TV!
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?279786-Table-Saw-Safe-Practice&p=914223#post914223


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## cogwodmoac (Mar 3, 2014)

I have two existing crowder hives. needing to make a new one before spring. If I followed your dimensions instead, will combs still be moveable between hives? (I'm assuming your changes are minimal but don't have the original plans in front of me to compare).


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