# The harvest of pollen: bad business?



## Eduardo Gomes (Nov 10, 2014)

I may be wrong , but it gives me the impression that exploitation of pollen harvest seeming no adherence by professional beekeepers in the US and Canada . I'm right? If so what are the main reasons not to explore the row of pollen?


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

I harvest about 100 pounds of pollen in the spring of the year. I see no reduction in honey crop in the dozen or so colonies that have traps on them. It only takes me 2-3 weeks of trapping to get the pollen I need. I use the pollen for raising queen cells.


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## drlonzo (Apr 15, 2014)

Michael - When you harvest pollen for the raising of queen cells, what is your normal process with it? Meaning, do you freeze, clean, dry, refreeze till needed?


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Eduardo Gomes said:


> I may be wrong , but it gives me the impression that exploitation of pollen harvest seeming no adherence by professional beekeepers in the US and Canada . I'm right? If so what are the main reasons not to explore the row of pollen?


Eduardo, all aspects of beekeeping in the US can be profitable in the right areas by the right beekeeper/businessman. It's the passion and expertise of the beekeeper that means success or failure.


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## Eduardo Gomes (Nov 10, 2014)

"I use the pollen for raising queen cells" Michael Palmer.
In Portugal beekeepers that make pollen harvest also do for their own consumption and for their bees. 
Already in Spain some professional beekeepers devoted hundreds of hives to harvest pollen . After the duly prosecute place it
in the market. I think a good part of its turnover comes from the sale of pollen. The pollen in the portuguese market has an average 3x to 4x higher than honey.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

drlonzo said:


> Michael - When you harvest pollen for the raising of queen cells, what is your normal process with it? Meaning, do you freeze, clean, dry, refreeze till needed?


I use Sundance bottom traps and no cleaning is necessary. I freeze it until use.


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## drlonzo (Apr 15, 2014)

Michael Palmer said:


> I use Sundance bottom traps and no cleaning is necessary. I freeze it until use.


One last question Michael.. When you make up your pollen frame for your cell builder, what would you approximate the amount of pollen that you use in the frame, poundage wise?


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

A couple double hands-full I would say.


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## Eduardo Gomes (Nov 10, 2014)

sqkcrk said:


> It's the passion and expertise of the beekeeper that means success or failure.


Here is the same thing Mark.
Do you prefer to harvest the honey, is not it? Me too, but I'm looking at the possibility of dedicating 200 hives to harvest pollen. Michael Palmer confirms my idea that does not affect the honey crop and will pay me the fuel expense.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Michael Palmer said:


> I harvest about 100 pounds of pollen in the spring of the year. I use the pollen for raising queen cells.


How do you use that pollen Mike?


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Fill combs with it and give it to cell builders.


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## Marcin (Jun 15, 2011)

Someone should make a documentary about you Mike. Follow you for the whole season and just put it on a dvd. I'm certain it would sell. Or at least, have a go pro camera mounted to your veil hat and let the rest of us see what you do. 


Michael Palmer said:


> Fill combs with it and give it to cell builders.


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## Crabo (Jan 17, 2012)

Anyone selling their pollen? What are you getting for it?


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## WilliesHoneyCo (Jun 23, 2013)

I get 15 to 20 if I trap it


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## juniorbeeman (Dec 2, 2014)

I'm really interested in this idea. However, how do you actually fill the combs? just sort of pack it in? Does it fall out? I would way rather feed straight trapped pollen from my own bees than purchase irradiated pollen from china or make up substitute patties.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Pour trapped pollen onto an empty brood comb and work it into the cells with your fingers. I use one side...the side facing the grafts. If I were feeding a colony, I would place the pollen facing the last frame of sealed brood...that way when the brood emerges and the queen re-lays in that comb, there would be the pollen, right where the bees need it.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Eduardo, put in your traps during high pollen flows, rotate your traps


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## Eduardo Gomes (Nov 10, 2014)

Thank you Ian!
In Spain (the largest pollen producer in Europe ) there is a strong tradition in pollen harvest for commercial purposes. They have indicated to me that a good hive produces between 4 and 5 kg/year for beek. For now bulk sells at 10-12 € / kg and retail 18-20 € / kg . Like Michael Palmer they also say it does not affect the production of honey .

I am thinking seriously devote hives to this crop. In Portugal I have a friend who invented a solar dryer for pollen, which allows drying of the most economical and ecological pollen ( I think he dry between 20-30 kg / day) and with a more intense flavor and a much smoother texture. I will visit him within next month for him to give me the details for the construction of this equipment .

I have some questions for which I ask your help:
1 ) what is the best method to put the pollen traps that bees are not still the beehive entrance without coming?
2 ) Do you prefer the traps made ​​of plastic or made ​​of wood?
3 ) what is the validity that we should give the pollen to put in the retail market : 1 year, 2 years , ... (in Portugal there is no legislation in this respect to pollen )?


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

Do not use the old traps made with galvanized screening. 

There was a pesticide studdy done here by university students a few years back looking for farm chemicals in the hives incoming pollen. 
They found no chemical residues in the pollen but instead found large levels of lead. After analyzing the data, they found the lead residue was due to the use of the old galvanized traps. 
The studdy was done with new and used traps leant to them for the summer studdy.


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

I always thought zinc was the issue with galvanized. So I looked it up and yes, lead is often added to molten zinc during the hot dip galvanizing process.

I know one well known Cal queen breeder that traps clean mountain pollen for use in their cell builders during the almond bloom, after fungicide issues started with cells being built on almond pollen. Not sure what type trap they use, but the hives are palletized.


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## thebeemanuk (Oct 16, 2014)

For queen rearing if im short of pollen i mix in a bit of Ultra Bee seems to work


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## Kidbeeyoz (May 8, 2013)

Michael Palmer said:


> Pour trapped pollen onto an empty brood comb and work it into the cells with your fingers. I use one side...the side facing the grafts. If I were feeding a colony, I would place the pollen facing the last frame of sealed brood...that way when the brood emerges and the queen re-lays in that comb, there would be the pollen, right where the bees need it."
> 
> Michael, no doubt you trap the most nutritious pollens containing high crude protein. Have the major honey plants in the USA been analysed for their crude protein percentage? Here in Australia we are fortunate that a lot of our major honey plants have been analysed especially our Eucalypts. A number of beekeepers trap the pollen, freeze it and feed it back when working pollen deficient honey flows. In my opinion it is a more natural way of beekeeping rather than feeding the artificial 'witches brews' that I read about in these forums.


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## Haraga (Sep 12, 2011)

Kidbeeyoz how do they feed it back? In frames or patties?


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## Eduardo Gomes (Nov 10, 2014)

Ian said:


> Do not use the old traps made with galvanized screening.


Today I bought my first pollen traps. The screening is stainless. They are more expensive but I'd rather pay more and have a product without contaminants.
The drawer to accumulate 2 kg of pollen. The Spanish beekeepers report that on a good day it can reach about 0.8 kg of pollen/day . Whenever I can I will harvest daily. When I will not be able to harvest every two days.

I look forward to start the harvest of this new product of the hive. I will speculate a bit but perhaps the pollen harvest help me to control swarming. What do you think about this?


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

What do you think about this? 

My speculation is that collecting pollen will hare little to no effect on swarming.

Crazy Roland


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

Roland said:


> My speculation is that collecting pollen will hare little to no effect on swarming.


I second that sentiment.


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## Eduardo Gomes (Nov 10, 2014)

Thank you Roland and rwurster. After putting the post with the issue I spoke with a very experienced portuguese beekeeper and that is been harvesting pollen from few years ago and also has your opinion. I will continue to use my techniques for prevention and control of swarming and a few tips I learned in Beessource .


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## pmshoney (Dec 30, 2014)

Marcin said:


> Someone should make a documentary about you Mike. Follow you for the whole season and just put it on a dvd. I'm certain it would sell. Or at least, have a go pro camera mounted to your veil hat and let the rest of us see what you do.


Yes Michael, I think they have a great idea for you here :lpf: A go pro camera mounted to your veil. My voice pocket recorder I talk to myself recording my hive records. That thing has been dropped in the hive more times than I can count. And my cell phone is always lost of left behind in a yard. At least a cell can be called to find it. I would loose a cam the 1st trip out maybe on purpose lol


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## Eduardo Gomes (Nov 10, 2014)

I think I will not regret the great investment I'm doing on the purchase of 150 traps pollen. I am convinced that it will pay in the first year . I have one or other questions .

"_Another tip, do not be tempted to try and turn the trap "off and on" frequently thinking you will make it easier on the bees. This can stress the bees out. The bees sometimes need a week to get acclimated. Once they are collecting, keep it going for 2-4 weeks during a good pollen flow. You really don't have to worry about the bees not having enough pollen. Not all pollen is stripped, and once the hive detects that there is not enough pollen coming in, workers switch to pollen gathering from nectar to maintain the correct balance._" in http://www.blueskybeesupply.com/blog/sundance-pollen-traps-collection-tips/

Do you agree? with: 
1) do not be tempted to try and turn the trap "off and on" frequently; 
2) keep it going for 2-4 weeks during a good pollen flow; 
3) don't have to worry about the bees not having enough pollen. 
Thank you in advance for your comments and opinions .


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## ChuckReburn (Dec 17, 2013)

I'm running the Brushy Mountain pollen traps on selected hives in 3 outyards as part of a University study. We only need a little for the sampling but, I'll harvest any excess.

We did a test run in the fall turning them on for 3 days at a time once a month. The bees were confused and a bit irritated for the first 24 hours once it was turned on, they have no issues adjusting to it being turned off.

I plan to run them for up to a week while watching for congestion. I suspect a good pollen flow is going to be about the same time I have a good nectar flow so I anticipate a lot of activity and the trap slows down traffic. I specifically put the traps on hives with partially screened bottoms and avoided solid bottoms as I could see where ventilation might be a problem.

I really can't imagine running them non-stop for 4 weeks. Maybe they will dedicate more foragers to pollen gathering but that means the trade off is honey. I intend to monitor and see but I'd think that after 2 weeks you'd better take a look and see how they are doing on honey and pollen.

Also watch for ants, they found this new source of protein within 2 days in 1 of the yards. I'd suggest a daily emptying and freezing routine be used - if you want to dehydrate you can do that at your convenience.


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## Eduardo Gomes (Nov 10, 2014)

Thank you Chuck. The traps that I ordered are similar to these: http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Front-Porch-Pollen-Trap/productinfo/509/
The issue of ventilation is one aspect that seems relevant in my hot weather.

After reflecting on what you said one week on and 3 to 4 days of it seems more prudent because I do not want to jeopardize the production of honey. Fortunately have a good pollen flow around 3 to 4 weeks before the major nectar flow which will allow me to make, I think, a good pollen harvest before nectar flow. After I shot the pollen traps to leave the bees work the harvest of nectar at ease and avoid the problem of congestion of bees at the entrance of the hive.

I had not thought the issue of ants. Thanks for your alert.
I am thinking freeze the pollen first and dehydrated according to my availability and in accordance with customer orders .


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

1. yes 2. yes 3.yes, but that is purely from anecdotal information.

crazy roland


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

I recall that I heard a webinar thing with Shane from Brushy Mountain and Larry Connor. Larry claimed that moving pollen was a mechanism to transmit Chalkbrood. Has anyone else heard this?
An edit. A little google search led me to an article he wrote for ABJ.
http://www.wicwas.com/sites/default/files/articles/American_Bee_Journal/ABJ2011-02.pdf


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## Eduardo Gomes (Nov 10, 2014)

Thank you Roland and Adrian.
>was a mechanism to transmit Chalkbrood. Has anyone else heard this?>
The article talk about this.


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