# Top Bar Top Entrance?



## Bush_84 (Jan 9, 2011)

Michael Bush just leaves a gap between the first top bar and the hive and props up the lid to the hive. 

http://www.bushfarms.com/bees.htm

There's his site and should have a section on top entrances. I would say however that most use bottom entrances.


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## lavert5 (Mar 6, 2011)

My topbar hive has three 7/8" holes drilled closer to the top. I use corks to close them up as needed, only one of them open in the winter.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Ne need to "prop" the lid. The bars do that. All you have to do is nothing and you'll have an entrance. You'd have to work at designing it so there was not an entrance...

http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm
http://www.bushfarms.com/images/TBHEntrance1.JPG
http://www.bushfarms.com/images/TBHEntrance2.JPG


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## My Local Bees (Dec 21, 2011)

In one of my TBH I drilled holes in the front of the hive, but have also left a space between some bars. The bees use the space between the bars and ignore the front entrance holes.

Doug 

mylocalbees.wordpress.com


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## Mtedcarr4 (May 20, 2010)

I live even further south & still use the missing top bar entrance. whether you have a Screened or solid bottom board make sure the bottom is flush so you give less hiding space for Small Hive Beetle


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## Adam Foster Collins (Nov 4, 2009)

Bees usually don't build a full comb on the bar closest to the end, as there really isn't a good bee space there unless you have wider bars, or some type of spacer between the end of the hive and first bar. This means that you can just drill a hole or holes on one end near the top (just below the edge of the cover) and that should work fine.

Adam


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## oldreliable (Jan 29, 2011)

I build mine using Michael Bush's design. No need for SBB or holes drilled for entrance..I drove 2 small nails in, one on each side of the box about 1/2 inch from the end. these act as stoppers so the top bars can not slide past and close of the entrance. When all of the bars are in place and the cover is on..creates a 3/4" high by 1/2" wide entrance. No LANDING BOARD NEEDED


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## taydeko (Jan 3, 2012)

I built my hive with entrances at the bottom because of Tom Seeley's research findings. It seems that his bees preferred a bottom entrance. One wonders if other bees in other places might have different preferences.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

My conclusions are the bees like entrances that skunks can't reach...


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## taydeko (Jan 3, 2012)

Seeley also said that they like hives up something like 10-15 feet. Its hard to work those hives though!  Thus far, my big hives are on stands to keep them out of reach of skunks and mice as much as possible.


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## oldreliable (Jan 29, 2011)

[HR][/HR]


taydeko said:


> I built my hive with entrances at the bottom because of Tom Seeley's research findings. It seems that his bees preferred a bottom entrance. One wonders if other bees in other places might have different preferences.


funny thing..I place my entrance upper left hand corner 2 inches from the right hand corner..based on my research bees like it the best 

When bees make a hive in a tree where would one consider the entrance to be..top or bottom? :scratch:


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## Adam Foster Collins (Nov 4, 2009)

My tbh's are on stands, so the skunks are not an issue either way. My entrances are bottom, end entrances, but I could see top entrances working just fine. 

Adam


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## Beeophyte (Oct 17, 2011)

A top entrance might have some ventilation benefits in Alabama I would think. When in doubt emulate Michael Bush.


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## SteveBee (Jul 15, 2010)

The end pieces on my TBHs come up higher than the bars themselves and so they can support my attic-style tops. This makes an entrance like Michael uses more difficult. Any future TBHs I build will have the end pieces level with the bottom of the bars, like MBs, for a simpler design, a top entrance and a top that is easier to build.


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## mmiller (Jun 17, 2010)

Adam Foster Collins said:


> My tbh's are on stands, so the skunks are not an issue either way. My entrances are bottom, end entrances, but I could see top entrances working just fine.
> 
> Adam


I do exactly the same thing and have been satisfied. I use wine corks to close holes for winter.

Mike


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## taydeko (Jan 3, 2012)

Michael Bush said:


> Ne need to "prop" the lid. The bars do that. All you have to do is nothing and you'll have an entrance. You'd have to work at designing it so there was not an entrance...


Mike, do you use something to ensure the spacing is correct for the entrance? How do you reduce the entrance?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>Mike, do you use something to ensure the spacing is correct for the entrance?

Correct is anything over 1/4"... no, I don't.

> How do you reduce the entrance? 

I never have. But if I wanted to, I guess I could build something. I would probably staple a screen across most of the entrance if I had robbing issues.


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## oldreliable (Jan 29, 2011)

taydeko said:


> Mike, do you use something to ensure the spacing is correct for the entrance? How do you reduce the entrance?


you place a small nail on each side of the box about 1/2" back from the end so that when you lay your tob bars along the top of the box your first bar will rest agains the nails and thus creating a 1/2" gap or opening that cant be closed. Since the bars are 3/4" thick you will gain that hieght in the opening when you lay your top cover over the bars. Leave enough overhang with the top cover (mines about 2-3"). My hives have no landing board..they fly in land on the front of the hive..walk up and under the overhang of the cover and enter the hive..you can not see the hive opening with the top cover on the hive..


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## mrjackcoleman (Dec 30, 2011)

Michael,

You haven't had an issue with rain coming in? By the looks of the photo you provide, it appears that water would enter into the hive. Also, do you just recommend a flat roof or simply lay a single piece of 3/4" plywood on top of the TBH?


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## mrjackcoleman (Dec 30, 2011)

Michael Bush said:


> Ne need to "prop" the lid. The bars do that. All you have to do is nothing and you'll have an entrance. You'd have to work at designing it so there was not an entrance...
> 
> http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm
> http://www.bushfarms.com/images/TBHEntrance1.JPG
> http://www.bushfarms.com/images/TBHEntrance2.JPG



Michael,

You haven't had an issue with rain coming in? By the looks of the photo you provide, it appears that water would enter into the hive. Also, do you just recommend a flat roof or simply lay a single piece of 3/4" plywood on top of the TBH?


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## mrjackcoleman (Dec 30, 2011)

oldreliable said:


> you place a small nail on each side of the box about 1/2" back from the end so that when you lay your tob bars along the top of the box your first bar will rest agains the nails and thus creating a 1/2" gap or opening that cant be closed. Since the bars are 3/4" thick you will gain that hieght in the opening when you lay your top cover over the bars. Leave enough overhang with the top cover (mines about 2-3"). My hives have no landing board..they fly in land on the front of the hive..walk up and under the overhang of the cover and enter the hive..you can not see the hive opening with the top cover on the hive..


I like this simple idea; less cost too then making a pitched roof. Thx.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>You haven't had an issue with rain coming in?

No.

> By the looks of the photo you provide, it appears that water would enter into the hive. Also, do you just recommend a flat roof or simply lay a single piece of 3/4" plywood on top of the TBH? 

I just put whatever scraps I have around. 3/4" plywood works great.


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