# O KAY! I NEED SOME HELP....PLEASE... In regards to an old extractor



## JohnK and Sheri (Nov 28, 2004)

We had one which we just sold. If it runs it is worth something to someone with the time to fix it up, if you don't want to tackle it yourself. Kellys I think sells the food grade epoxy to paint the interior.
Sheri


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## okb (Apr 16, 2007)

http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/products.asp?pcode=615


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## min79854 (May 22, 2008)

Thank you all so much for your input....I just wanted to be sure that I was not wasting my time on this extractor....Last time I used it it ran great...After that, I borrowed one from our beekeeping association, and that one worked okay, but if I remember correctly it wobbled alot and should have been anchored somehow.. My goal is to have all my equipment in top shape when I finally have some honey to extract....Thanks again. Min


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## Hill's Hivery (Jan 7, 2005)

I purchased a galvanized extractor a couple years ago off of the forums here. It had very minor rust on some pieces. I completely tore it down cleaned it and coated everything with the Camcote food grade epoxy. I put on 3 coats total and I haven't needed to recoat yet. For a hobbyist I couldn't be happier. Of course if all goes well I may need to upgrade to a bigger extractor next year though.

Nice extractor for sale anyone?!?


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## min79854 (May 22, 2008)

oops...sorry,..........Thanks for your input...it gives me hope.....Today, I called a couple of sandblasting places, and I received one "ball park estimate" over the phone, with the coatings and all of around 500.00!!! I almost fainted!!! Does this seem reasonable? I could buy a new 2 frame extractor for that much!!!! I think that maybe the guy didn't really know what I was talking about, but if anyone has any idea of how much it would cost....for real.....I would appreciate it....Or, maybe I could just rent a sandblasting machine and do it myself....Input PLEASE.............Again, what I have is an old 2 frame motorized extractor....galvanized tank and very rusty gears and brake..... Thanks again everyone........Min


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## KQ6AR (May 13, 2008)

Hi,
If you have an air compressor you could buy a media blaster for about $50, and do it yourself for under $100.
I know harbor freight sells them in that price range.
Dan


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## Hill's Hivery (Jan 7, 2005)

Without seeing pictures it woul dbe hard to get real accurate.

I would say a lot of elbow grease, steel wool, a wire brush and some time, one could easily accomplich cleaning up the extractor without spending much more than the supplies. Personnally it wouldl be well worth the time if it is motorized. I would have LOVED for mine to have been motorized.

Want to trade? Mines already coated?


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## riverrat (Jun 3, 2006)

I wouldnt put that much money in an old galvanized extractor. When you are done that is just what you will have. an old galvanized extractor. I would try to buy a good used stainless one. you should be able to get a 6 frame radial dadant hand crank used for about the same amount of money or less


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## okb (Apr 16, 2007)

Clean it with a wire brush on a drill.


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## min79854 (May 22, 2008)

I just went out to the shed and took another look at the extractor....With so much junk piled up around it, it was difficult to determine the total amount of work needed. Will try to pull it out today and get a better look at it....I was, however, able to see that on the front above to gate, it was manufactured by Root and I think it said Cowan or Gowan....I was looking at it in an upside-down manner..sorry. The motor pulley would not turn by hand, nor could I spin the frame baskets by hand....but that was just a brief try... I will get it out,and take some pictures of it later today if time allows. Then I can't wait for all of suggestions,etc. I'll check in later...Min


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## min79854 (May 22, 2008)

*pictures.....*

Well, I think if you go to my name and click, it will take you to my public profile...there you will see my album with 3 pictures of the extractor.....I THINK anyways.....give it a try...let me know your opinion....Thanks...Min


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## notaclue (Jun 30, 2005)

I, me, myself would give it a shot at cleaning. If it is something YOU want to try and tackle then go for it. Make sure you have the time and commitment. What I could see it will be quite a project. If you could get it out in the sunshine there may be more details to available. Still good pics anyway.


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## Ishi (Sep 27, 2005)

I have a 4 frame Root that looks a lot like that one. Mine does not say Cowen just a sticker from Root over the honey gate. When I got it 7 years ago I called Root and got the top gear that goes in the shaft of the basket and a new leather break for it. After 2 years I then got the motor conservation from Root for it 2 more years and I traded a welder to have someone to put a DC motor with a speed control on it. Cleaned and painted it with food grade paint works very well.


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## min79854 (May 22, 2008)

AGAIN, Thanks for the input...you have given me hope.....I understand that this could turn into a project, however; I'm in no real hurry to have it up and running, so time is on my side here. I'll try to post somemore pictures, maybe later today if time allows. Do you happen to have an e-mail address for Root? Awww, I'll just do a google search... I think I will be needing to purchase the same shaft apparatus, as this one is actually rusted into the sleeve..... Do you recall if it was an expensive part? Also; Somehow, during the storage of this machine, someone cut the wires from the motor and took what I remember to be a speed control...and then I discovered that the motor is froze up, so looks like more work.. More later.....Min


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## JohnK and Sheri (Nov 28, 2004)

I hate to rain on the parade, but with all the parts needing purchased, and time spent repairing and conditioning I am wondering if this extractor is worth the time, money and effort. You would have to be a serious tinkerer and like bringing things back from the edge of the junk heap for the satisfaction of doing so to justify it, imo. Extractors sell regularly on this board, Ebay and even at local auctions all over the country. A good small stainless one can be picked up for between $200-$400, less if you are lucky, depending on size and condition. If time is on your side, I would sell an old galvanized one for whatever I could get and invest that $ for a used or even a new stainless. As riverrat says, at the end of all that work (and now probably considerable money) you will still have an old galvanized extractor.
A new 2 frame stainless hand crank goes for about $300 plus shipping.
A new 4-6 frame hand crank goes for $400-$500, motorized for about $650.
Sheri


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## min79854 (May 22, 2008)

My thoughts exactly(see first post); however, I am also very thrifty, and if it takes but a bit of tinkering....why not....Just wanted to get other's opinions and or expertise......Still considering..... After-all I have this forum to help...Thanks...Min


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## stangardener (Mar 8, 2005)

i have one of these i picked up from freecycle though i don't extract with it. i did a search and found it was from around the 1890's. i consider them to be a thing of beauty
how many baskets does yours have? mine has two, does that make it a two frame extractor?
seems large for a two frame extractor. ishi mentioned his being a four framer does that mean it has four baskets or also two? if two baskets makes it a two framer can two baskets be added to make it a four framer?


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## Mabe (Mar 22, 2005)

A few remedies come to mind...

1. A product called "Rust Converter" is available at the big DIY stores that you brush on and it chemically alters the rust to a sandable, paintable surface. The rust no longer continues. I've used it very successfully on wheelbarrows, etc.

2. A rotary tool or drill with a steel brush attachment makes pretty short work of grinding off rust. Minimal rust will come off with a sander and oxide paper.

3. Those steel scrubby pads that are sold for cleaning up kitchen pots work well on cleaning up mildly rusted stuff. I even use them to easily scrub off wax and propolis before I repaint equipment. With care, you can even use them to clean up plastic equipment very quickly. They are my new secret weapon.

Mabe


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## Ishi (Sep 27, 2005)

[
ishi mentioned his being a four framer does that mean it has four baskets or also two? if two baskets makes it a two framer can two baskets be added to make it a four framer?[/QUOTE]


4 baskets. When you dis-engage the power and pull the break the cages swing around to do the other side. I run it with the cage facing forward. 

Walter T Kelly
270.242.2012

800.233.2899

Fax 270.242.4801

Hrs M –F 7:30 to 12:00 1:00 to 4:30
Sat 7:30 to 12:00 Central time


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## stangardener (Mar 8, 2005)

thanks for the reply. mine sure is a big piece of equipment for only spinning two frames at a time.


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## hankdog1 (May 17, 2008)

min79854 said:


> oops...sorry,..........Thanks for your input...it gives me hope.....Today, I called a couple of sandblasting places, and I received one "ball park estimate" over the phone, with the coatings and all of around 500.00!!! I almost fainted!!! Does this seem reasonable? I could buy a new 2 frame extractor for that much!!!! I think that maybe the guy didn't really know what I was talking about, but if anyone has any idea of how much it would cost....for real.....I would appreciate it....Or, maybe I could just rent a sandblasting machine and do it myself....Input PLEASE.............Again, what I have is an old 2 frame motorized extractor....galvanized tank and very rusty gears and brake..... Thanks again everyone........Min


Lord you could buy a compressor the sandblaster and everything you need for that price. This is just an idea but if there is a vocational school near by that teaches auto body you may want to inquire if they have a sand blaster and just pay for a night class and do it. I know the classes are pretty resonable like 65 bucks around here and other then that all your out is your materials plus you have teacher present to lend some knowledge if you have any problems. One other thing if there are any holes in the galvinized tank make sure they are patched by someone who knows what they are doing as welding or cutting will produce very toxic fumes.


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## mike haney (Feb 9, 2007)

*rust*

get one of those wire wheels sold at hardware stores to chuck up in a hand drill and just do it yourself. as you have found, proffessional labor and equipment is quick and easy but is VERY costly. home labor is slow,hard, and free. AS HAS BEEN WIDELY RUMORED, THERE IS NO FREE LUNCH! good luck,mike


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## min79854 (May 22, 2008)

More about the extractor.....  Well, with the help of WD-40 I've gotten everything loosened up...But; I cannot get the spinning part out...I've disconnected the bolts that hold the top apparatus on, so I thought that all I would need to do is lift it out...I was wrong...I noted that there was a tightening type of bolt down at the bottom, so I got that out...still, I can't get the darned unit out...Does anyone have a clue as to what I am talking about? Please help....Thanks, Min


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## mwjohnson (Nov 19, 2004)

Not sure I can help with that...I thought they lift out...I'd pull harder. 

But I seem to remember someone on here saying that you could remove rust with a battery charger using electrolysis. I always wondered...anybody try it?

Good Luck


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## Ishi (Sep 27, 2005)

Mine sets in a bearing others I have seen have a bushing in the bottom of the extractor or a short shaft that the reel fits over .


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Try a local body shop. Maybe someone wants some weekend work. PB Blaster and Kroil are both good penetrating oils. WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.


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## min79854 (May 22, 2008)

*Still working on the old extractor....and another question..*

Well, I hung the extractor from a chain, sprayed penetrating oil around the spindle in the bottom of the tank, and worked it until I lost my patients...then took a hammer to it...down it dropped! Here's the question; in the place where the spindle sat, are a bunch of ballbearings...does anyone know if that spindle had the bearings on the bottom of it, or do the bearings sit down in that sprocket? I guess I have to clean out that area where the ballbearings are, and figure out which way to go to replace it. Sorry if I'm not clear on this.... How do I replace the bearings? Any help would be appreciated... By the way, as someone suggested in a reply eariler, I went to Harbor Freight and bought the media blaster. I think that should do the trick...Thanks. Now that I basically have the thing all apart, it's just a matter of getting the time to work on getting it cleaned up.. Another question comes to mind; after the clean-up, do I seal just the seams, or the entire inside of the tank? Thanks, Min


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## KQ6AR (May 13, 2008)

On many older things the bearings are greased & just sit in the lower race. The upper part you're drum might just ride on the bearings.
I don't know if thats the case with you're machine.

Glad the blaster worked for you.

Dan


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## min79854 (May 22, 2008)

Thanks for the help....I'll more than likely be posting more questions as I go along here....Didn't do anything with it today...took a ride over to the other coast to watch the shuttle launch....very cool! Min


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