# Swarm Trap Volume and Placement Opinions?



## IAmTheWaterbug (Jun 4, 2014)

So I'm still seeing scouts at my bait hive, but no one has moved in yet.

I just finished Honeybee Democracy and watched a few videos on bait hives, and apparently some folks think a 5-frame deep nuc is on the small side for a swarm trap, recommending 40 liters, or something the size of a 10-frame deep. Most of the arguments against a 10-frame deep seem to be 1) expense of bigger box and more frames, and 2) difficulty in mounting and retrieving.

I don't have either of those problems because 1) I have an unused deep and some frames lying around for the next month (until my packages arrive), and 2) the trap is here:









(click here for full size pano)

I put the trap here because that wall has been colonized twice, once in 2010/2011 and once in 2014. So the bees apparently like this location! In 2011 the entrance was on the opposite side of that same wall (e.g. facing outside) about 8' high. In 2014 the entrance was about 4' high.

Because it's easily accessible, I can put my 10-frame deep in here just as easily as I can my nuc, and I could elevate it another 4-5' as well, if that's any better than where it is, now.

It's also facing due east right now, whereas I'm reading that S/SE is more optimal for those of us in the northern hemisphere.

Does that matter in this highly-protected location? The box won't get any direct sun, as you can see.

Is it worth fiddling with this? Or should I just leave it alone, since I already have scouts?


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## TalonRedding (Jul 19, 2013)

I think you're making it too complicated. Which way was the entrance of the original colony facing and why not face it that direction? Also, why not put the box on the outside of the wall rather than inside the building? Even though the box is close to an old hive location, this doesn't mean that bees will prefer the box. The "cavity" needs at least SOME exposure to the sun.


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## dynemd (Aug 27, 2013)

Put your trap outside.


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## whiskers (Aug 28, 2011)

Since you're already getting nibbles why not leave the nuc as it is, and also set up the deep, perhaps on the roof of the chicken house. The bees can choose, perhaps there are two groups looking and you'll get them both. Then you get to rush about trying to find boxes to put your packages in.
Bill


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## jadebees (May 9, 2013)

An 8 or 10 frame deep is a good size. But not a dealbreaker, for bees. Smaller or bigger often works. I use 8 frames or double warre hive boxes. Most important things when swarm trapping: using good swarm lure, and, where you place the lure box.


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## IAmTheWaterbug (Jun 4, 2014)

whiskers said:


> Since you're already getting nibbles why not leave the nuc as it is, and also set up the deep, perhaps on the roof of the chicken house. The bees can choose, perhaps there are two groups looking and you'll get them both. Then you get to rush about trying to find boxes to put your packages in.
> Bill


According to Seeley, having two desirable nests in close proximity actually works against you, because it splits the vote. You'd rather have 30 scouts at one nest to trigger a "quorum" than 100 scouts distributed across 5 nests, because 20 won't trigger a quorum. At least according to Seeley.

But yes, since I'm getting nibbles I'm not going to radically change anything. I might swap out the nuc for a 10 frame deep tomorrow morning, and maybe add another frame of really old, black comb from the 2014 cutout that's currently in my original hive. It's a little moldy, because my weak hive doesn't have enough bees to keep it clean, so maybe getting it out of there is a good thing.

Assuming I do catch a swarm from inside the chicken coop I am open to different ideas for box placement to catch my next one ;-)


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