# beeswax paste for wood finish?



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

You may be interested in one of the Beesource POV articles, "All About Beeswax", published in 1923 by the A.I. Root Company:
http://www.beesource.com/resources/elements-of-beekeeping/all-about-beeswax/

In that article is this ...


> A very satisfactory floor finish can be made by melting a pound of beeswax, and while it is cooling, stirring into it some turpentine. An exact proportion of the two ingredients is not necessary – in fact some workmen prefer the paste thick, others want it thin. When cool, if the mixture is too thick it is a simple matter to thin it by working in more turpentine.
> 
> http://www.beesource.com/resources/elements-of-beekeeping/all-about-beeswax/


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## cblakely (Sep 6, 2013)

I made a cedar hive this fall: http://blakelysbees.com/bees/EcoBeeBox.html

I used 2 quarts linseed oil, 1 quart of turpentine and 1 or 2 pounds of beeswax. That filled a 1 gallon paint can. I melted the wax, then stirred in the linseed oil and turpentine. The linseed oil and turpentine were cool enough that they made the wax solidify and chunky. I then put the paint can in a pot of water so I had a double boiler. When that heated up again everything stirred in smoothly. 

I then just applied a heavy coat with a brush and then wiped the excess off in an hour or so. You can also just let it set in the sun, so the wood will absorb all that it can. I really like the finish. I did hear that you may have to re-apply every year or two. I have not given it the test of time yet so we will see how that goes.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

Need less to say this is a out door away from the home. I would hate to see anyone's home go puff. If you did it all in a double boiler to start. You would most likely do it in one heat.
David


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## cblakely (Sep 6, 2013)

I was a little stupid in that respect as I had not worked with it before. It would make sense to put it all in the can first and bring it slowly up to heat and just do it once. But for the second round (with all of it together) I did nervously do it inside. The turpentine does have quite a smell that my wife complained about for a while. You could leave the turpentine out, I understand that its purpose is not for the finish, but to help it all to absorb into the wood a little easier.


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## cblakely (Sep 6, 2013)

cblakely said:


> The linseed oil and turpentine were cool enough that they made the wax solidify and chunky.


This may not have been an issue if I had done it mid-summer instead of fall. It would be safer to not need to heat up the turpentine.


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## Kamon A. Reynolds (Apr 15, 2012)

Ah nice thread just the info I was looking for!


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I usually add just enough vasoline to make it a paste and use it for wood, leather etc.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

With the terpene it is VERY flammable. Witch is why you need to move this out side. I would only due this in a double boiler. I would HATE to see your home catch on fire. I have had to work in to many homes. that have gone up in smoke deep frying a turkey. 
David


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## bevy's honeybees (Apr 21, 2011)

I wonder if a crock pot set on low would be too much heat. 
Outside, yes. I have one I use only for wax already. Or maybe I can put a can containing wax inside the crockpot with water in the pot. Save from buying any more equipment to make this. And the vasoline idea is great--can use the paste on other things too. Yup, I'm glad I asked.
Thanks everyone.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Uses for beeswax paste with vasoline:

Hoof dressing for horses. Not only to keep out splits but in winter to prevent snow buildup on their soles.
Treatment for oil tanned leather (saddles, boots, harness etc. heating boots causes better penetration)
Wood polish (you may want it a little stiffer for this and heating the wood first causes it to soak in better)
Lip balm
Skin cream (works even better if you use lanolin with the beeswax)
Butch wax (if you have that kind of hair style...)
Mustache wax
...


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## bevy's honeybees (Apr 21, 2011)

Michael Bush said:


> I usually add just enough vasoline to make it a paste and use it for wood, leather etc.


No turpintine?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I have never used turpentine... just vasoline. I have, in the past, tried neetsfoot oil, which works fine, but I don't see that it's any better than the vasoline.

For the hoof dressing the traditional formula always has pine tar in it which acts as a long acting antimicrobial, and that could be added if desired.


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