# Weatherproofing Migratory Lids?



## DirtyLittleSecret (Sep 10, 2014)

Anyone have success weatherproofing migratory lids? :scratch:
Picked up a bunch of treated lids and all of them leaking at the seams. Thinking some construction adhesive might work to seal any seams.


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## Treehopper (Dec 9, 2012)

Titebond?


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## warrior (Nov 21, 2005)

I'm fixing to switch over to migratory and plan to seal them with cool seal.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

I sometimes seal them with Emulsified Asphalt, then cover it with aluminum bodywork tape so it doesn't get sticky stuff on my hive tool, my gloves, my bu++, etc.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

You can use that sticky underlayment that roofers use instead of tar paper. It's expensive but if you have roofing friends I bet you could get the leftovers which would likely be enough to cover without a seam.


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## whiskers (Aug 28, 2011)

Why not asphalt roof coating. I would use the kind with aluminum powder in it to better reflect the sun.
Bill


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

I used Latex Silicone Caulk in the seems, then a good coat of paint. Seemed to work well for me.


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## ABruce (Dec 27, 2013)

I painted all of mine with a latex sealant they sell for RVs.Comes in a paint can and applies with a roller or a brush. It works great and dries hard, Going into the third year and they look like they did when I put them out.


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## MTN-Bees (Jan 27, 2014)

Titebond x2


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## RAK (May 2, 2010)

Wax dip.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

Truck liner coating.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-Gyoix50BI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKDpYIT6VkA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kk8UdVenANQ


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## Sunday Farmer (Nov 13, 2013)

DirtyLittleSecret said:


> Anyone have success weatherproofing migratory lids? :scratch:
> Picked up a bunch of treated lids and all of them leaking at the seams. Thinking some construction adhesive might work to seal any seams.


Where are the seams on a migratory cover? Mine are a single piece of plywood with rails on ends, painted with latex. They don't leak, but then again, there's no seam?


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## RAK (May 2, 2010)

Paintable silicon.


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## ian_m (Feb 5, 2015)

Use Medium Density Overlay plywood. With the MDO on both sides. It is the same material used for highway construction signs and holds up well to the weather. If you dip them then the edges are sealed too. If you want, paint the top surface before dipping.


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## RAK (May 2, 2010)

Ian, All of of our MDO and HDO sweat condensation. Cedar lids are the best.


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

The migratory covers I have are made with 1 x 6's and have cracks in them. The bees filled the cracks with propolis and they don't leak.


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## ian_m (Feb 5, 2015)

If you tilt the hives then the condensation will not drop on the cluster. Also, you can drill a 3/4" hole in the hive body and increase the ventilation if needed.

In California, lid warping is an issue that can make lids in short order. I got the MDO lid idea from Randy Oliver and they are holding up well.

I suspect that the answer, as to what works best, is like all other beekeeping answers. It is what works best for the your bees. 

I have not tried Cedar lids so I would be interested to hear if they tend to warp or not, how long are they lasting and what your climate is?


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Flat 3/4" plywood left unfinished holds up for years.


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## rkereid (Dec 20, 2009)

Ross said:


> Flat 3/4" plywood left unfinished holds up for years.


What type of 3/4" plywood are you using?


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## jcolon (Sep 12, 2014)

Ross said:


> Flat 3/4" plywood left unfinished holds up for years.


+1


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

I find that spliced tops expand and shrink so much that filling the cracks with almost anything is ineffective. I covered some with torch on roofing. Using plywood is the best solution.


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## davpress (Mar 8, 2005)

I cut each board on edge 1/2" deep, take scrap roofing shingle cut it 1" wide and length of joined boards. place 2 boards together with shingle strip in cuts. this allows board to shrink and still not leak. 
David


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## Huntingstoneboy (Feb 10, 2013)

rkereid said:


> What type of 3/4" plywood are you using?


http://www.huberwood.com/advantech/products/advantech-flooring

I have had good luck with this stuff.


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## rkereid (Dec 20, 2009)

Huntingstoneboy said:


> http://www.huberwood.com/advantech/products/advantech-flooring
> 
> I have had good luck with this stuff.


I made some migratory covers and bottom boards from 3/4" Advantech this past summer. The lids were not painted and the material does end up swelling. Not sure how many years I'll get out of them, 3 maybe? I'm sure a coat of good primer and finish would help a lot.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

odfrank said:


> I find that spliced tops expand and shrink so much that filling the cracks with almost anything is ineffective. I covered some with torch on roofing. Using plywood is the best solution.


I second that
All my slat wood tops have been culled out, I could not keep them from moving. 3/4 plywood is best


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## rkereid (Dec 20, 2009)

Besides MDO and HDO, what grades of plywood are you having success with?


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

odfrank said:


> I find that spliced tops expand and shrink so much that filling the cracks with almost anything is ineffective. I covered some with torch on roofing. Using plywood is the best solution.


CORRECTION: I have made spllced tops from T&G Old Growth Tight Grain 11/16" Redwood that was used for a fence in 1972 and rescued by me 35 years later that do not seem to shrink and expand. But the wood is so old and dry that the corners split off during handling.


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