# Frustrated with honey gates! Help!



## CessnaGirl (Jan 7, 2014)

I have been bottling a lot of honey this year. It's been a fabulous honey production year for us but I have gotten to where I dread bottling because of the stupid honey gates! I have bought them already in the bucket, installed them myself, had my hubby install them, gotten them from many different companies, and they are all [email protected]! During bottling, they leak from every which way (sometimes even when closed), especially if the bucket is really full. Is there any brand or alternative out there? Or, do I just need to suck it up and deal with crumby honey gates and be thankful for such a big harvest? Help, please! Any suggestions welcome!


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

I just bought 2 from mann lake that are of a different construction (yellow plastic with all metal hardware). I hope they will be less prone to the screw freezing. I have not used them yet


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## mgstei1 (Jan 11, 2014)

I have bought the cheapest I could find on ebay. 1st thing I do is install them in my bucket and spray those valve threads with PAM.
After installation I spray the o-rings and gate surfaces to make sure they are lubricated. Then I will eyeball and adjust the hinge nut and bolt and the latch nut and gate until I have equal gate along the gasket surfaces. Never ever over tighten bolts and nuts and bend the gate.
When beginning to fill my container I loosen the latch side bolt just enough for push up on the gate. Doing this i also push in on the gate to be sure it seals against the o-rings. I never ever take my hand off the gate handle and am always pressing in. When the container gets almost full I pinch back and top the container off with a small flow until full than I close the gate and tighten up the nut with just enough force to keep it from dripping.
If a drip begins to form wipe it off before you place the next container under the gate.

I to had aggravation and problems but after studying how the gates are made i came up with the method above.

Once you become accustomed to the function of the gate it gets extremely easier to use. And most of the time no leaks or drips.


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## zhiv9 (Aug 3, 2012)

Maxant No Drip Valve. Better on a tank than bucket. It sounds like you've spent enough already on cheap gates to cover its cost.


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

I think the problem is in the design. With my Mann Lake ones the drip occurs most frequenly on the left. As I fill one container I have the second one in my hand. I catch the drip in the second one and then remove the filled one and put the second one in its place. I also use the second one to break the "tail" of honey that comes from the bucket as the first one is removed. I believe it is helpful to minimize the time that the valve is closed between containers as this is when the ooze builds up on the outside of the valve. 
My most popular container is a 5 pound pour jug and so as I am only opening and closing that 11 times a pail. Thus I am not encountering the sticky torment at the frequency you are.


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## stajerc61 (Nov 17, 2009)

My Maxant "no drip" valve has dripped since new. I used the Kelly valve successfully for several years prior to purchasing the Maxant. Either way get a bottling valve. The right tool for the job makes life easier.


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

I can't really imagine using a maxant valve with a plastic 5 gallon pail...it would put too much force on the pail.


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## zhiv9 (Aug 3, 2012)

deknow said:


> I can't really imagine using a maxant valve with a plastic 5 gallon pail...it would put too much force on the pail.


You would definitely need to put a lid and weight on the pail.


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## zhiv9 (Aug 3, 2012)

I think if you are bottling the volume of jars where the honey gate is becoming a real pain, then its time to invest in a stainless tank and bottling valve. Both would last your lifetime and it wouldn't be hard to sell these for 1/2 to 3/4 of the new price at a later date. You get what you pay for.


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## BeeAttitudes (Dec 6, 2014)

Anyone have experience with the "Perfect Gate" from Brushy Mountain? If so, what is the verdict?


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

I believe I know of a better valve that our family used in the '40s. I hope they are still available. It is basically a fast acting internal gate valve. On Tuesday I will look for the name.

Crazy Roland


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

I bought a few honey gates from Dadant and installed them myself and never had a problem. Any honey that gets outside the valve while you're opening and closing it will drip, and that's it. One key thing I do is barely tighten the nut that holds the gate shut, I read that somewhere, maybe their instructions, I don't remember, regardless their valves have never leaked on me in the past 4 years when holding 70+ # of honey in the 5 gallon bucket. And they're just the generic, plastic gates Dadant sells for cheap. All I can think is maybe get a stainless steel settling tank and get a nice valve. That's what I'm shooting for


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

BeeAttitudes said:


> Anyone have experience with the "Perfect Gate" from Brushy Mountain? If so, what is the verdict?
> 
> View attachment 21217


It's a big improvement over the comon entry-level gate, maybe a drip after every fourth or fifth bottle. But with mine, in order not to leak over time, the tension screw needs to be cranked down to where the action is pretty stiff. Hard for fine control, like filling 2oz bears. I believe the metal version would be better.


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## BeeAttitudes (Dec 6, 2014)

cg3 said:


> It's a big improvement over the comon entry-level gate, maybe a drip after every fourth or fifth bottle. But with mine, in order not to leak over time, the tension screw needs to be cranked down to where the action is pretty stiff. Hard for fine control, like filling 2oz bears. I believe the metal version would be better.


By metal version, do you mean a metal version of the "Perfect Gate" of Brushy Mountain's stainless steel version of a traditional 1 1/2" honey gate (the one below)?









On the Perfect Gate, seems they should have tapered the bottom of the opening in a "V" so the flow width is reduced as you close the gate. That would give you better control of flow to avoid overfilling small bottles.


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

I use the yellow plastic honey gate that comes from Mann Lake already on the pail. I may get a drip every 20 bottles or so. The dog doesn't mind the drip that ends up on the floor. She actually looks forward to it. lol


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## BeeAttitudes (Dec 6, 2014)

I wonder how this chrome plated, brass honey gate from Mann Lake compares to the stainless steel version from Brushy Mountain?


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

BeeAttitudes said:


> do you mean a metal version of the "Perfect Gate" of Brushy Mountain's stainless steel version of a traditional 1 1/2" honey gate?


I've not used either, but I'm thinking the metal 'Perfection' gate would be pretty good.


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## BeeAttitudes (Dec 6, 2014)

Do you have a link to the metal version of the "Perfect Gate"? I've not found it. Thanks!


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

Mr.Beeman said:


> I use the yellow plastic honey gate that comes from Mann Lake already on the pail. I may get a drip every 20 bottles or so. The dog doesn't mind the drip that ends up on the floor. She actually looks forward to it. lol


My little doggie patiently sits and watches the drip pan until I'm done bottling. My grandmother doesn't can anymore but she puts lids on and wipes the jars down for me so I let her have first go at the pan, then the dog cleans up what ever is left or hit the floor lol


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

BeeAttitudes said:


> a link to the metal version of the "Perfect Gate"?


https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=383


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## JRG13 (May 11, 2012)

I never had issues with any gates except one, when bottling, honey comes out the top side of the gate that's sealed off when rotating the gate up, none of them (5 or so) leak when sealed though.


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

Had honey gate issues and noticed that if I only put a gallon or two into the 5-gallon bucket that the problem is less. Fill it full and the problem is bad.

What's happening: When the bucket is fuller there is more pressure and more honey sticks to the gate when you open it. When you close it that honey is stuck to the inside of the gate. You close the gate and "rake" the excess honey off and it drips. 

Try not filling your bucket so full. Hope it helps.


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## mgstei1 (Jan 11, 2014)

The nylon and plastic honey gates have o-rings for a gasket seal. Lubricate the o-ring with pam or cooking oil. When opening firmly hold the gate part of valve against the o-ring when filling bottle. The o-ring will scrape the honey off the gate inside the valve body where it cannot drip and when closing apply same pressure to gate when closing off. Continue to hold slight pressure against the gate against the o-ring and fill the next bottle using the same pressure point.
Once you do this and get the feel for what is needed as far as slight pressure then there will be no drips or spills. When you want to stop, tighten up the wing nut to apply slight pressure to keep gate parallel with the o-ring and valve body and only tighten it enough to stop drips.

Be good to show on a you tube video.


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## dp2k (Apr 22, 2012)

I've had good luck with the Maxant gates, but also have and use the Mann Lake version (yellow) and some cheap versions from who knows where. I caused a leak to develop after filling a bucket with hot water for too long - not sure if I warped the o-ring or the bucket where the seal is, but there's a slow leak ever since. All seem to drip a little - I'm saving my pennies for a Maxant tank w the no drip valve.


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

just use a 1.5 in PVC ball valve from the hardware store. put a little nipple on the discharge side with a 90 deg elbow. Don't glue the elbow. when you are done filling a bottle, close the valve and twist the elbow into the upright position. Works like a charm.


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

I've thought about using the pvc valve, but not gluing the elbow and turning it up is brilliant for a pvc set up. My little doggie wouldn't have a drip pan to lick anymore lol


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## orthoman (Feb 23, 2013)

I also use the Mann Lake yellow gate valves. I like to remove the valves after filling jars, etc. with honey so that they can all be cleaned up. My biggest problem is that the gaskets get torn both at the bucket and at the gate valve. And, it is hard to find replacements gaskets. Perhaps applying some PAM will help. I am liking the PVC ball valve idea.


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## CessnaGirl (Jan 7, 2014)

Harley Craig said:


> just use a 1.5 in PVC ball valve from the hardware store. put a little nipple on the discharge side with a 90 deg elbow. Don't glue the elbow. when you are done filling a bottle, close the valve and twist the elbow into the upright position. Works like a charm.


Got some pictures, Harley?


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

Take the old o ring or gate to a automotive store and not a big box type one and they should be able fix you up.


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

CessnaGirl said:


> Got some pictures, Harley?



not handy, but I could probably dig my equipment out of storage and take some if you really need them. Just go to a hardware store and tell them you want to attach a ball valve to a bucket with an elbow for a spout and they will set you up. Just don't glue the elbow In 1.5 in you are looking at apx $30 which is spendy for a gate valve. 3/4 in and you are in the ballpark of a proper gate valve. If you go to a mom and pop type hardware store they should sell the pvc pipe you will need to connect everything by the foot. If you go to a big box store be prepared to by 10 ft for the 2 inches of pvc pipe you need to connect everything together.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

It is too bad nobody is making these old style in stainless. I think it was Kelley that sold these in the '70s. They chop of the honey well with minimum drip and no squeeze out on the handle. I guess they were discontinued because they were not stainless. I was going to mount it on this new small tank I was given but the radius of the tank is smaller.


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