# Building wooden ware from scratch



## jcolon (Sep 12, 2014)

Air gun?


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

Chickasaw Honey said:


> Two hundred assembled, four hundred-eighty to go. Winter projects.
> View attachment 15271


What are you using to cut those side bars with. I started using a router but ended up using the band saw. No matter what I did the router would suck in the fence and cause tear out.

I like that, they look good. :thumbsup:


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

A jointer works good!


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

I never even thought of it, even though that was exactly what I was using the router as.

Too bad I sold mine about ten years ago from moving and it was a heavy tool that got little use.


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## Chickasaw Honey (Jul 21, 2014)

crofter said:


> A jointer works good!


Great idea, Frank


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## Chickasaw Honey (Jul 21, 2014)

rookie2531 said:


> What are you using to cut those side bars with. I started using a router but ended up using the band saw. No matter what I did the router would suck in the fence and cause tear out.
> 
> I like that, they look good. :thumbsup:


I use a router, but after seeing Frank's idea I with set up to do that.


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## Chickasaw Honey (Jul 21, 2014)

jcolon said:


> Air gun?


By hand. Air gun coming soon.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

That number of frames and hand nailed to boot! A lot of separate moves went into that production. I only made up 60 deep frames and that was enough to get the urge out of my system!


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## Chickasaw Honey (Jul 21, 2014)

It is a lot of work, but the least cost.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Nice looking frames! :thumbsup:

[hr] [/hr]

Regarding using the jointer for adding the relief to the lower part of the frame endbars, the greatest benefit comes in doing as much manufacturing as possible to a _larger _block of wood that ultimately will be cut to individual endbars. So if you have a 6" jointer, a 2x6 is the most efficient board to start with. Sequence the steps as you prefer, but I plane the board to thickness (1 3/8" or 1 1/4"), cut the dado for the top bar, and then relieve the lower part of the endbar with the jointer. Once those steps are completed the individual endbars can be cut apart.


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