# My first tree trapout



## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

MAKE SURE that there is no other way out of the tree or around your trap out. They will have to go through the trap with the Hogan style, but that is part of the problem. They can go back into their established hive at any time. I use a trap out cone which will not allow them to return to the hive. It would be an awesome trap if you combine the two designs. A trap out cone within the Hogan style. 
it can be done, I've done it.

Oh yeah, relax.... this will take several weeks. The longer you keep it there the greater the chances of getting the queen as well.


----------



## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Open brood should be enough. The only thing I would have done differently, (and this has limitations if you are not near the trapout), is, I would not close off the tunnel for 24 to 36 hours. Let the bees and possibly the queen have free unrestricted access to the trap. I don't believe I have ever had a queen come through the funnel into the trap. I posted that, and i had numerous e-mails that others have been successful with the queen coming through the funnel. I have always caught them by leaving the tunnel open. I only use the funnel if I am going to eliminate the colony. My thinking is, the queen might think that with the restricted exit, that the trap is some other bees chamber and not her's. She obviously comes into the trap to investigate the brood, and expecting to find another queen in another chamber of her colony.

cchoganjr


----------



## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Mr beeman.. others... Yes, the Hogan style with cone is no problem at all. Simply mount yourself a cone screen funnel over a hole onto a piece of 1/4 plywood (whatever size you build your tunnel), with nails started in the plywood to tack into the end of the tunnel. I personally still would leave the tunnel open for 24 to 36 hours, then if you wish, tack the plywood with the cone attached, to the end of the tunnel. I really believe, (although there is mounting evidence against my thinking) (see my comment above), that the queen will come into the trap better if the tunnel is left open and not force the queen to come through the funnel.

Hope this has been helpful.

cchoganjr


----------



## bevy's honeybees (Apr 21, 2011)

Mr Beeman, I have the trapout that has a red funnel built into the 2nd transition, the piece that goes into the box. I opted to close the main tunnel, would have left that open if this tree was close to my house where I could monitor better. I do plan to go by tomorrow or Thursday to check on other openings they may have made, with a quick peek into box.

I struggled with decision whether to keep tunnel open until then and decided to close it just in case other things prevent me from getting over there. Plus, a bit of an experiment to see if queen will come out this way.

If this fails, could I not leave everything as is, then take a few frames to add to a nuk at home, and bring them another open brood frame? Open the tunnel and try leaving open for 24-36 hrs and try it that way? I have a feeling this is a small colony. The activity I've seen so far is about equal to my strong nuk. 

I expected this tree to be a learning experience and it sure has turned out that way. Thank you, everything is helpful!


----------



## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

bevy's honeybees. Of course that will work. Leave everything set up and just start it over. Nothing wrong with that approach.

cchoganjr


----------



## bevy's honeybees (Apr 21, 2011)

I went to take a peek today, check the tree seals and just had to look inside the box. I didn't have smoker but I had my protection on. I opened it only for a few seconds, and what surprised me was the amount of bees on the floor of the box. I have 3 frames of drawn or mostly drawn comb next to the tunnel. The bottom was covered what looked to be about 2 layers of bees actively moving around, and they were also covering the piece of wood I used to close the tunnel. The frame seams looked fine. Plenty of activity at the entrance of the box. There was one tiny opening they'd made at the tree again, through the tape somehow. I retaped a few more places and added more pea gravel at the base of the tree where I have plastic coming down.

I think what I will do is on Sunday, take 3 empty frames and a 4 frame nuk box, exchange the 3 frames and bring home the nuk. On Wednesday, do the same thing and combine the first and second batch. 
Will they know they are the same colony or should I do a newspaper combine?
Beverly


----------



## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

I would do a combine. I like the double screen method better, but newspaper method will work. Three days is a little too long. No problems with the nurse bees on the brood, but the others could fight.

cchoganjr


----------



## bevy's honeybees (Apr 21, 2011)

What is a double screen combine? I have a framed screen exact size of a 10 frame box that I could use.

I thought 3 days seemed long too based on what I saw. 
Will I need open brood when I exchange frames? Bring one on case queen still in tree?
Thanks! 
Beverly


----------



## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Place a double screen between the two colonies, weak colony on top. Let stand for 3 or 4 days, remove screen and move frames into one hive. If more frames than enough for one hive body, place brood frames in bottom, other frames in 2d chamber. The newspaper method sometimes allows bees to overheat in the 2d chamber especially in late summer. Also if bees chew through paper too soon you have tremendous fights, and the queen is in jeopardy when that happens.

Yes, each time you start the process you will need open brood to lure the queen and nurse bees, (additional housekeepers, cleaners, fanners, etc), into the trap. By moving frames you do not move the guard bees. 

If time permits, and if distance is not a factor, place two or three of frames of drawn combs, couple frames of foundation, wait a day or two, then introduce the frame of open brood. How many bees you have in 24-36 hours will give you a good idea as to strength of feral colony. If you don't have 3-5 pounds, you have weakened the colony. If you have 3-5 pounds, move them, (start new colony or combine) and start trap again. If you simply leave the trap in place and don't remove, the two chambers will equalize and you won't get a significantly larger number of bees in the trap, but, if you remove them, the colony is weakened, and when you put new open brood it will draw more bees out, because they will tend the brood in an effort to keep their numbers up.

Hope this has been helpful.

cchoganjr


----------

