# Has anyone used these for mason jar feeding?



## aiannar974 (Mar 29, 2017)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bee-Hive-T...805211?hash=item41b82c9adb:g:42UAAOSwXeJYMhME


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## gruntworker (May 20, 2013)

Just poked some holes in the top myself. The only time 0> $7:75.


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## lemmje (Feb 23, 2015)

Hmmm, seems gimmicky. Just buy a regular pack of lids and poke a few holes, bees doing that for years.


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## Eikel (Mar 12, 2014)

One of the guys uses spent 22 cal casings soldered in a mason jar lid and a small hole drilled in the end, same general idea and swears by his method.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

_Aiannar974_, despite the skeptics posting above, no less a beekeeper luminary than Randy Oliver uses feeders with a similar tip. :lookout:

Here is Randy's page where the original image is: http://scientificbeekeeping.com/fat-bees-part-3/

One benefit to a small tip like that is that only an [almost] equally small hole needs to be drilled into your woodenware to use the feeder.


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## lemmje (Feb 23, 2015)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> _Aiannar974_, despite the skeptics posting above, no less a beekeeper luminary than Randy Oliver uses feeders with a similar tip



From the same article:



> For the hobbyist, I suggest feeding with inverted quart to gallon jars (a quart a day is plenty) with a few holes punched in the center of the lid (hole size is not critical, but by using only a few small holes you help to regulate the feeding rate). Then make a simple dedicated feeder lid out of scrap wood, with a hole in the center smaller than your feeder jar lid (but larger than your hole pattern). Set your nice hive cover to the side, and temporarily use the board with the hole through it while you’re feeding. The only time that a hobbyist may have to feed when he/she is starting a colony on foundation.


http://scientificbeekeeping.com/images/stories/beenutrition/fb3-8.jpg


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

If one is considering using a scrap wood lid as a temporary cover for a feeder, evaluate whether the flat board alone even comes close to respecting 'bee space'. Boxes from different manufacturers may have the frame rest area set a different depth than other manufacturers, so its difficult to make a blanket statement.

If you put on just a flat board as a cover, look to see how much space there will be between that temporary cover and the top of the frames when the lid is in place. If there isn't 'bee space' (1/4- to 5/16-inch) when the lid is on, the bees may decide to propolize the lid in place. Gluing some thin shims around the edge where they would rest on the box below and raise the lid a bit is one solution to that issue.


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## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

I use the set up like Randy's and this product. I can drill a 1/4" hole in the top of a migratory cover and the bees propolis it when I am not feeding. I have used brass plumbing fittings (like Randy) and I have also used weed wacker fuel line (11/32" maybe?).


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

So where can I get some of these nipples for my next mason jar
little project?


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## aiannar974 (Mar 29, 2017)

psm1212 - How do you secure the fuel line? Do you silicone it in?


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## pjigar (Sep 13, 2016)

I used fired casings from 22LR cartridges and soldered them to the lids. The solder is the weakest link so I may need to figure out how to attache them more securely to the lid.


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## burns375 (Jul 15, 2013)

They work, theyre meant for migratory covers. I way to feed "inside" the hive without making a big hole or opening the hive.


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## frustrateddrone (Jan 31, 2015)

Yes, stupidity to the majority and rocks for logic for others. What 1 are you?


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## Phoebee (Jan 29, 2014)

I can see some merit to it. We use a queen castle set up with four apartments, and at the moment, each board for covering the apartments has a large hole cut out for a feeder jar. We have to cover these with a scrap of wood when no feeder is used. When we change feeders, bees pour out. Pain in the butt sometimes.

The small nipple would let us feed thru a small hole, possibly small enough that bees can't get thru it, and at least small enough we could close it with a small cork or plug.


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## Phoebee (Jan 29, 2014)

pjigar said:


> I used fired casings from 22LR cartridges and soldered them to the lids. The solder is the weakest link so I may need to figure out how to attache them more securely to the lid.


I'd avoid any lead-based solder for this. Aren't mason jar lids coated with plastic inside?

I'm kinda fond of JB Weld epoxy. If worried about contamination, you could use a food grade epoxy, which I think some people have used for repairing honey processing equipment.


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## lemmje (Feb 23, 2015)

Phoebee said:


> I can see some merit to it. We use a queen castle set up with four apartments, and at the moment, each board for covering the apartments has a large hole cut out for a feeder jar. We have to cover these with a scrap of wood when no feeder is used. When we change feeders, bees pour out. Pain in the butt sometimes.
> 
> The small nipple would let us feed thru a small hole, possibly small enough that bees can't get thru it, and at least small enough we could close it with a small cork or plug.



This should be the advert's tagline. Very nicely explained.


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

I use 1/4" sprinkler line, just drill the hole a bit smaller then the tube, cut the tube at an angle and pull it threw with some plyers


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## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

aiannar974 said:


> psm1212 - How do you secure the fuel line? Do you silicone it in?


Looked in my shop for exact dimensions. The tubing has a 3/16" Outer Dimension. I drill a 1/8" hole and force the 3/16" plastic tubing through it. It seals tight. No need for silicone or any type of sealant. I am attaching pictures of the line and a finished lid. I recommend using the wide-mouthed lids for better stability than the regular mouth jars and lids.


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## willbe (Sep 3, 2013)

We made some like this by soldering tubing on to the jar lids in the early 60's drilled holes in the hive tops.
They worked.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

Got it! So the regular soda drinking straw and the large drinking straw will
both work for this application. No more tube hunting for me. What a great idea for a jar feeder!
I use over jar feeder.


Black plastic landscape fabric (non-toxic):


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## Phoebee (Jan 29, 2014)

willbe said:


> We made some like this by soldering tubing on to the jar lids in the early 60's drilled holes in the hive tops.
> They worked.


If using copper tubing, you could use a flaring tool to make a slight flange so it can't pull thru, and add a little strength.


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## aiannar974 (Mar 29, 2017)

I just did that this morning. I flared 1/4? copper tubing and epoxied it in place with an export that is food safe.

Anthony


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

Phoebee said:


> I'd avoid any lead-based solder for this. Aren't mason jar lids coated with plastic inside?
> 
> I'm kinda fond of JB Weld epoxy. If worried about contamination, you could use a food grade epoxy, which I think some people have used for repairing honey processing equipment.


I first tried jb weld because when i tried the solder the tube supports on, the rubber seals were burning up too quick. But the jb weld did not hold up. I dont know if it was the composition of the sugar or just from being wet all the time, but it didnt take long for them to fail.

I have since used a small solder iron. This doesnt get the lid hot enough to burn the rubber seal.
https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Low-Lead-Brass-Support-WP7402385/_/N-qw2?breadcrumbCatId=15909&fromPidp=true&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/46M538_AW01?$smthumb$webparentimage$


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## aiannar974 (Mar 29, 2017)

Rookie2531 - when it failed did it dump in the hive? Anthony


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## Son of Pete (Feb 18, 2017)

Thanks for the post. I ordered a bunch of these. They seem like such a great value for the money. I'm looking forward to not worrying about my bees jumping all over me when I want to refill my feeder jars. The idea of not having three or 4 inch holes in my hive covers really appeals to me too.


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## aiannar974 (Mar 29, 2017)

I soldered in 1/4 od copper tube this weekend. They leaked everywhere. 3 different jars. Next weekend I will drill a larger hole and poke some small holes in new lids. Anthony


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I "inherited" a lot of nucs once with 1/4" holes in the lids and that's what had been used. A jar with a 1" or more tube. The bees would just popolize the hole shut when not in use as a feeder hole.


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## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

aiannar974 said:


> I soldered in 1/4 od copper tube this weekend. They leaked everywhere. 3 different jars. Next weekend I will drill a larger hole and poke some small holes in new lids. Anthony


I went through the same process Anthony. The 1/4" copper tubing did not hold create enough vacuum. That is why I went to the fuel line I posted the picture of above. It has a 1/8" interior diameter and will hold sugar syrup. Even with that though, I invert the jar and have to let just a little run before it will create the vacuum necessary to place on the hive. 

Randy Oliver describes 1/8" ID copper tubing (1/4" exterior). I just couldn't find any of that.


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## Son of Pete (Feb 18, 2017)

My Lids arrived today. The inner diameter is about a little over 1/8 inch, but there is a twine "wick" included. The twine is tied in a knot to hold it in place on the inner surface of the lid, and is trimmed just about flush with the terminal end. The instructions note that sometimes the wick may need to be trimmed back slightly, because if it touches anything it will drip. The nipples look to be sealed to lid on both sides with epoxy. I haven't gotten them on my hives yet, but my first impression is very good.


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## suburbanrancher (Aug 5, 2011)

Thanks for posting this, it's exactly what I wanted my husband to make for my queen castle. Just ordered them to save us time and aggravation.


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## Son of Pete (Feb 18, 2017)

I really like these things. I put them on my hives last night. For what its worth, a 17/64 drill bit works perfectly. The instructions recommended a 1/4 bit, but it was a little too tight. I chopped up a fence slat in 5x4 inch rectangles and screwed them over the holes where jar lids used to go. I haven't had them on the hives yet for even 24 hours, but it appears that feed rate is a little slower vs. using two or three pin holes in a lid as I was before.


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## Biermann (May 31, 2015)

Hello,

This: http://scientificbeekeeping.com/fat-bees-part-3/ is great info!

I have the need for this because I have 2" insulation in the top cover and want to bring the feeding down to about frame level.

We probably gone solder break line to the lid.

Will post when done.

Cheers, Joerg

PS.: does anyone know when 2/1 syrup freezes, if it does?


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## Fivej (Apr 4, 2016)

Biermann: I don't know at what temp 2:1 freezes, but it seems to be a consensus that they will not take it below 50F. J


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## Biermann (May 31, 2015)

Hello Fivej,

than lets go in to details.

My inside hive temperature under the lid is 21°C or 70° of your measurement, but outside temperature still goes at the moment to -10°C or 14°F and can got to -25°C - -13°F, than the freezing point of the syrup becomes of interest.

Cheers, Joerg


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

2:1 does not freeze. Like most heavy syrups, it just gets thicker as it gets colder. Ever try to freeze honey? It is a moot point however as the bees won't take the syrup when it gets real cold. Better to give them sugar brick or fondant in temps below 50°F. Also, mason jar feeders tend to dump syrup during temerature swings as the air inside expands and you lose the vacuum.


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## Richinbama (Jan 15, 2018)

What about silicone?


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

Rich, I would not want RTV sealant (silicone sealant) anywhere near my hives. Instead, use a product like polyseam seal or an acrylic latex caulk that has been given an ample amount of time to cure. JB Weld is still probably your best bet.


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## Richinbama (Jan 15, 2018)

Thanks jw, wasn't sure bout silicone.


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## jooky (Mar 18, 2016)

I bought those feeders. they NEVER stopped dripping. Even jammed toothpicks into the tube.. still dripped. I would love if they worked, would be perfect for my mini nucs. Threw them in the garbage.


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## Biermann (May 31, 2015)

jooky, good to know. This is for 2:1?


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## Son of Pete (Feb 18, 2017)

Unfortunately I gave up on these also. They work for a little while, and then the twine becomes plugged and you get zero flow from them. Without the twine in the nipple, the jar will empty in a couple hours . I wish they would've worked too. But I've gone back to poking holes in the lid. I suspect that a nipple with a smaller interior diameter would work, but these are injection mold made I think, and I can't figure out a good way to alter them so they'll work.


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## GSkip (Dec 28, 2014)

Each time I see something that replaces what I'm successfully using, I have to think they are just trying to separate me from my wallet. 

I use a migratory top with a hole that the mason jar lid fits into. The lid has 4 or 5 pin holes. When the jars are off I leave a lid in each hole, the bee weather proof around the lid. Eazey Peazey!!!!


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## Son of Pete (Feb 18, 2017)

I do it the same way skip. But if these feeders worked better, there's no question they would be preferable to holes poked in lids. 
1. You don't need to cut giant holes in your lids. 
2. You can refill the feeders without any disturbance to your hives. The way you and I currently do it you have to open a giant hole in the roof of the colony.
3. The lids are well-made and reasonably priced. I don't have any gripes about me being separated from my wallet. They just need a little tweaking in the design.


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## Bush_84 (Jan 9, 2011)

Sorry for a bit of a gravedigger but I had a related question. So I’ve built some of these out of the fuel line. Clearly can’t solder this down. They seem to stay but want to seal it somehow. I’ve seen jb weld mentioned and silicone frowned upon. I’m not sure if this was all in relation to the plastic fuel line or 22 casings. What can I use to simply seal it on the outside around the tube?


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## aiannar974 (Mar 29, 2017)

I used job weld . It worked but they leaked everywhere. 

Maybe someone can explain why pure silicone is a bad idea? It is used in aquariums. I am talking 100% pure silicone nothing with mildew inhibitors in it.


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