# Mini Mating Nucs



## jkellum (Dec 29, 2016)

Are the STL files public or private? i would love to have a copy of them if they are public.


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## Saltybee (Feb 9, 2012)

Neat. Love the 3D frames. What no 3D foundation?


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

Very nice
Could I get your file? fusion 360 preferred [email protected]
I am bringing 10 Foam minys on line this year and once they get them going I want to pull the feeders and run them 5 frame, Ian style. So I was looking at printing some frames 
I had thought about printing some nucs, but at under $12 shipped for the foam one on ebay, I went for the extra insulation figgerd it might get me an extra cycle.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Still wishing someone would print a good push-in cage.


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## aran (May 20, 2015)

johno said:


> The nucs I built last year ended up being rather clumsy so I printed some that have the same inside dimensions as the polystyrene mating nucs and will try them out in the spring. The cost os producing them is under $10 apiece of course you will need a 3D printer.
> View attachment 45511
> 
> Johno


as a total utter tech imbecile that i am...how does one get a 3d printer to make these gadgets?


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

Michael Palmer said:


> Still wishing someone would print a good push-in cage.


You had said that before a few years back, what do you want to see in a push in a cage?


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Msl I have sent 3 STL files to the given email address let me know if you get them and can use them as they did not go my normal email way after clicking on your link. I am quite willing to share these files just have to figure out how to do so. By the way this can all be printed on the Creality Ender which retails for under $200 but will need a little assembly at home. AS these prints take quite a bit of time you had better have a small back up power supply cause just a power dip and you go back to square one. And Michael I have printed some California style queen cages but normally just bend up some 1/8" hardware cloth for push in cages.
Johno


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

johno said:


> And Michael I have printed some California style queen cages but normally just bend up some 1/8" hardware cloth for push in cages.
> Johno


I use the same. They wear out. Sometimes pull out.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

msl said:


> You had said that before a few years back, what do you want to see in a push in a cage?


Correct size...maybe 3/5 or 4/6.
Large enough openings on the mesh
Long enough points on edges of cage to contact midrib


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

jono it didn't come threw.. It wasn't sposed to be a link, just an email address... BS turned it in to a link some 
you might be able to copy past the adress in to your normal email system, or send me a PM with your email address and I will send you an email you can reply to 
If you in a shareing mood on the files https://www.thingiverse.com/ is a good site for it, I have an account there if you don't want to bother making your own.
Base cad files are prefered if possibly, STLs are very hard to modify do to the lack of details in them



> as a total utter tech imbecile that i am...how does one get a 3d printer to make these gadgets?


you start with a CAD program and draw the item, export it as a STL file to a 3d printer. Or you get the STL file from someone.


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## aran (May 20, 2015)

msl said:


> jono it didn't come threw.. It wasn't sposed to be a link, just an email address... BS turned it in to a link some
> you might be able to copy past the adress in to your normal email system, or send me a PM with your email address and I will send you an email you can reply to
> If you in a shareing mood on the files https://www.thingiverse.com/ is a good site for it, I have an account there if you don't want to bother making your own.
> Base cad files are prefered if possibly, STLs are very hard to modify do to the lack of details in them
> ...


im gonna have to look into getting one of these gadgets!


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok I have sent 4 STL files to your address MSL only STL files as I do not have access to fusion 350 at this time. The mini frames take waxed ritecell from medium foundation cut into 90mm strips and then cut in half so you get 8 pieces from 1 sheet of ritecell foundation. I have tried to get into thingiverse a few times but eventually gave up trying to register with them. This Cad thing with Fusion 360 is quite a learning experience and still have not got the hang of sharpening my mouse on the pencil sharpener.
Johno


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Jkellum if I can send the Stl files on line you are welcome to them, otherwise we will have to find another way. Lets see what the outcome with MLS is.
Johno


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## jkellum (Dec 29, 2016)

johno i sent you a pm with my email address


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

thnaks for the files
Looks like about 120mm across the top bar... my nucs seem to be 117.85 +- with a 117mm topbar
here is a link to a similar sized frame as yours, that can be layed out as 4 or 1 or 2 peice, some foundation files etc the 4 pice might save you a bit of time and support material on the print
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2483473
















here is a super for a Apidea, but again it seems to be just slightly bigger then my china knock off but might fit yours
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3046739/files
best of luck 
Oh, BYW how did your 3d printed II rig come out?
and... just thinkling, how do you make your cells ?


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## Saltybee (Feb 9, 2012)

Curious,
Is the solid pattern a necessity to make the foundation? 
Always thought plastic foundation with an open web (no center) would be closer to festooning and be accepted better.


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok , first of all I took the inside dimensions off of the Mann Lake mini mating nuc, there may be others out there. and as to the foundation rightcell is cut and slipped into the printed framesand there are holes in the framewith which you can pin the foundation to the frame. There is also a cutout in the bottom of the box where I glue some aluminum screen for ventilation purposes and I will also be gluing some 3/4" styro foam onto the lid to prevent overheating in the sun. The glue I have used is Titebond 2 also glued little wood strips under the box to allow ventilation. The II rig has not been completed, still need sting hooks and cap tubes to be made.
Johno


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

> there may be others out there


that was what I was saying, mine seems to be off compared to others, not suggesting yours was "wrong" in any way
Did you want me to add yours to thingiverse and post up a link?


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

MSL, yes I suspected that there would be other designs out there but chose the Mann Lake for dimensions as they were the ones used by Guelph. Now the styrene ones use starter strips on their frames but I thought to just jump the gun and cut up ritecell foundation to try to get a quicker start to comb building. There does not seem to be any way to increase to 5 or 6 frames as the feeder section is part of the molding. And yes please feel free to put this stuff up on thingiverse if you think it would be of interest to anyone.
Johno


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

Files are hosted here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3356272



> This Cad thing with Fusion 360 is quite a learning experience and still have not got the hang of sharpening my mouse on the pencil sharpener.


ya its a sharp learing curve
I found a left hand mouse to be quite a handy addition, really speed things up https://www.3dconnexion.com/spacemouse_compact/en/


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## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

I am a non-tech guy. All I can say is that [email protected]&! is cool. And I am envious. And now permanently left behind.


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## aran (May 20, 2015)

psm1212 said:


> I am a non-tech guy. All I can say is that [email protected]&! is cool. And I am envious. And now permanently left behind.


this is exactly how i feel!!


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## jkellum (Dec 29, 2016)

my print bed is too small. maybe i can hack the landing board off and it will fit. i will play with it


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

I can fit 2 lol


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

My $200 Creality Ender has a bed 235mm x 235mm and fits on rather neatly, the CR-10 bedd is 300mm x 300mm so no problems there. Now the Monoprice V1 bed is 120mm x 120mm so I barely get the mini frame on diagonally. If you google " Gear Best" they have the Ender at around $178 plus 20 shipping a good buy I think.
Johno


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## aran (May 20, 2015)

apologies for repeatedly sounding like a total moron but im lost...how the heck does the printer know how to make the nuc to the write dimensions. I get that information is in the computer code but how does that code in the shareable file get made? does some super computer dude write that program? is there a scanner that scans the object you want to print in this case a stryofoam mating nuc?


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

msl said:


> you start with a CAD program and draw the item, export it as a STL file to a 3d printer. Or you get the STL file from someone.


yes there are scanners as well 
but with simple items like the nuc box you just get out a pair of calpers, measure and draw

the cad file is exported as an STL file, that file is "sliced" by the printer software in to thin layers and that infomaion is exported to the printer in G-code. the printer then makes one thin layer at a time
The soft ware has gotten real good, its mostly plug and play... unlike CNC milling witch after a year is still kicking my but


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## jkellum (Dec 29, 2016)

yea my print bead is 220x220


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

got ya covered..
added the hive body as 3 pieces for those with smaller printers https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3356272
Landing board, brood chamber, feeder... super glue is your freind


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

I started making these and played with settings trying to get the print time down but with a faster print the feeder section wont hold water and I will have to paint the inside of the feeder with hot beeswax to seal the inside, The last one I made I used finer settings around 0.12 height of print which put the print time to around 30 hours but was finished very well and the feeder holds water, so at the end of the day better to run slower and produce a better nuc. The other point of interest is that the frames and lid when in position sort of slip and slide around with the plastic to plastic contact so if you rub the top edge with a small block of beeswax the top does not slide around and also if you do the same to the contact edges for the frames they also tend to remain seated when moved around.
Johno


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Aran, the nuc box is not solid plastic. The floor and the walls are all hollow and you can choose how hollow by the percentage of infill you choose. there are slicing programs that are a free download and often come with the micro chip that comes with the printer. The complete nuc with lid frames and entrance disc weighs 440 grams whereas the polystyrene nuc complete weighs in at about 350 grams. These printers are definitely an adult toy that can keep amind busy in the winter.
Johno


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Michael Palmer said:


> Correct size...maybe 3/5 or 4/6.
> Large enough openings on the mesh
> Long enough points on edges of cage to contact midrib


Maybe you just need to snail mail him one with a sticky note as to what you think you would like to see.


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## aran (May 20, 2015)

johno said:


> Aran, the nuc box is not solid plastic. The floor and the walls are all hollow and you can choose how hollow by the percentage of infill you choose. there are slicing programs that are a free download and often come with the micro chip that comes with the printer. The complete nuc with lid frames and entrance disc weighs 440 grams whereas the polystyrene nuc complete weighs in at about 350 grams. These printers are definitely an adult toy that can keep amind busy in the winter.
> Johno


oh man just sounds like this is outa my tech league by a mile lol. Ill have to stick with making my gear outa plywood.


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## crankhandl (Nov 23, 2014)

Jounno I would suggest that you watch Barnyard Bees on youtube he uses a lot of mini mating nucs and is a wealth of expertise


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## Flyer Jim (Apr 22, 2004)

aran said:


> oh man just sounds like this is outa my tech league by a mile lol. Ill have to stick with making my gear outa plywood.


:thumbsup:


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Crankhandl I have been rearing queens with 4 frame medium nucs, but that uses a lot of resources so I watched some videos on the University Of Guelph in Canada using the styrene mini nucs and that is when I decided to look at the mini's. By the way I hope to be down your way in 2012 as I plan to visit my daughter in Tasmania.
Johno


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## Juhani Lunden (Oct 3, 2013)

johno said:


> Aran, the nuc box is not solid plastic. The floor and the walls are all hollow and you can choose how hollow by the percentage of infill you choose.


Where is that "percentage of infill" put? Does the printer ask for it?


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

The slicing program does.. you set layer thickness, infill and the wall thickness


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

I print the boxes with a 10% infill and they work out just fine. I mentioned that if the layer height is set too coarse you may not hold water in the feeder and would have to coat the inside of the feeder with hot beeswax. The layer height I use is .12.
Johno


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## Juhani Lunden (Oct 3, 2013)

msl said:


> The slicing program does..


And that is where?

Do I have to load it to my computer?


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## little_john (Aug 4, 2014)

crankhandl said:


> Jounno I would suggest that you watch Barnyard Bees on youtube he uses a lot of mini mating nucs and is a wealth of expertise


Thanks for the 'head's-up'. I checked half-a-dozen of his videos - a helluva lot of repetition, but the basic idea appears sound. I've tried using divided (2x 3-deep-frame) boxes in the past but found that there's often absconding into the stronger half - so I'll now give 2-frame separates a try. 

I've also tried mini-mating nucs - so far without success - but I'll keep trying with those too ...
LJ


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Juhani, there are a number of slicer programs out there, Cura you can download for free just google cura. basically you import the STL file into Cura select the model of printer you are using then place your model on the Cura platform rotate it to how you want to print it then Cura will give you suggested parameters which you can use or change you then ask the program to prepare the model for slicing and it will then give you an approximate weight and print timeat this time you have the microchip in the computer and you ask Cura to download the print instructions into the chip, when done the chip is placed into the printer, SD is selected you then choose the print you want and snip snip and Bob is your Aunty.
Johno


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## nicklatech (May 19, 2017)

Totally cool idea, Can you send me the files? I’d like to try and print me a few. Email is tullostech at gmail .

Thanks
Nick


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## msl (Sep 6, 2016)

Files are hosted here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3356272


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

You can see my printers busy at work, I am using the little Monoprice select to print queen cages with the leftovers on the rolls of filament



















Johno


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## Juhani Lunden (Oct 3, 2013)

johno said:


> Juhani, there are a number of slicer programs out there, Cura you can download for free just google cura. basically you import the STL file into Cura select the model of printer you are using then place your model on the Cura platform rotate it to how you want to print it then Cura will give you suggested parameters which you can use or change you then ask the program to prepare the model for slicing and it will then give you an approximate weight and print timeat this time you have the microchip in the computer and you ask Cura to download the print instructions into the chip, when done the chip is placed into the printer, SD is selected you then choose the print you want and snip snip and Bob is your Aunty.
> Johno


Ok, thanks a lot. I´m beginning to understand more and more...

If my daughter is doing the printing work in Tampere University, it would be necessary that her computer has Cura (and is connected to the printer)?

chip = sd card or memory stick??



(She did a small piece for my insemination gear, but I dont know how. I designed that piece (with a 3D drawing program) and just sended her the file so I know nothing form that point onwards.)


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## Juhani Lunden (Oct 3, 2013)

The entrance reducer: does it have grill holes for queens ? 

it would be necessary for inseminations

(the same width as a an excluder has)


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Juhani most of the boxes in the pic have their reducers turned to the queen excluder, I put that in so that one of these days when I have everything ready for my home made inseminator I would be able to lock the queens in the nuc. Also the computer your daughter has access to with the printer will have a slicer program that they use it may not be Cura probably more expensive. All you need is the STL files that you send to your daughter, with Fusion 360 once your drawing is complete you ask the program to create a STL file and send the file to your computer from the computer you can do with it what you wish.


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## Juhani Lunden (Oct 3, 2013)

johno said:


> Juhani most of the boxes in the pic have their reducers turned to the queen excluder, I put that in so that one of these days when I have everything ready for my home made inseminator I would be able to lock the queens in the nuc. Also the computer your daughter has access to with the printer will have a slicer program that they use it may not be Cura probably more expensive. All you need is the STL files that you send to your daughter, with Fusion 360 once your drawing is complete you ask the program to create a STL file and send the file to your computer from the computer you can do with it what you wish.


:thumbsup:


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## Saltybee (Feb 9, 2012)

Never going to build it but I picture a built in robber screen . Either a single mold or simply side slots with a lower mesh to hold an upper slip in panel. Feeding a mini can be a wild ride and foam is not screen friendly..


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Yes that is possible, one need to think on the best way to arrange the screen as a small slot is easily constructed on the lower portion of the front corners.


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## aran (May 20, 2015)

johno said:


> You can see my printers busy at work, I am using the little Monoprice select to print queen cages with the leftovers on the rolls of filament
> View attachment 45567
> View attachment 45569
> View attachment 45571
> ...


mate this is SO cool!
How are the boxes joined together or does the printer make them all in one piece?


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

The box is one piece the lid is one piece the entrance disc one piece and the frames are one piece printed 3 at a time. I have made up 9 of them and will try them out in the coming season. Otherwise I have been mating Queens in 4 frame medium nucs and by the time the queen is really laying I cant bring myself to sell the queen as i can sell the whole thing as a nuc. This also claims a lot of resources with frames and bees so I hope with the little mating nucs with a couple of cups of bees and their own frames I will end up selling a few queens. At this point I have been mostly giving away queen cells and virgin queens as I only have 24 mating nucs. You can see in pic #1 the start of the box and this will continue printing until the box is about 51/2" high and it can take anywhere from 22 hours to 35 odd hours depending on how fine you want the finish to be.


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## Saltybee (Feb 9, 2012)

johno said:


> The box is one piece the lid is one piece the entrance disc one piece and the frames are one piece printed 3 at a time.


That is kind of the way I was picturing a robber screen being made. As a separate piece. Two slotted sides for a removable slide, an attached bottom bar with slats to attract robbers and two ears on each side to screw onto the nuc. The slides from the famous political signs would allow clear access to the discs when removed.

Waiting for your summer reports.


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