# Staple size for boxes and frames



## sylus p (Mar 16, 2008)

Worked for a commercial beek who used 16 gauge staples for frames and boxes. 

I don't recall the length.

A little help?


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## The Honey Householder (Nov 14, 2008)

1 1/4" staples


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## sylus p (Mar 16, 2008)

You use one size for both?


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

Must be that time of year to build boxes. Several posts about construction, fasteners, paints, etc, are popping up. 
I use 2 1/2" 16g staples. The only reason that I use the big staples is that they tend to force the joint together. My goal is to have a tight joint that excludes water and is held together with a water proof glue and sealed with a good paint. 
If you use big staples keep your hands at least 2 1/2" from the joint when pulling the trigger. I built cabinets when I was young and in a rapid fire setting must have nailed myself half a dozen times. Nails tend to come out the sides with crazy grain or knots so be careful.


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## chillardbee (May 26, 2005)

I've been using the narrow crown 1 5/8 staples for the frames. 2 in the top bars, 2 in the side bars, and 2 for the bottom bars. we had used these staples a long time ago as well and i was surprised how well they hold even without glueing frames.

i've been using a nail gun with glue tip, ribbed, 2 5/8 and about 8 gauge nails. very impressive I must say. I paint my supers with a solid color oil stain.

HVH, I know what your talking about holding the frame further down. I was 14 when I was putting frames together for a beek and a staple curved out the side and went through the tender flesh between my thumb and pointer finger. learnt a good lesson that day.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I never had any luck with 1 1/4" long staples on boxes. 1 1/2" seem to be the minimum to keeping the box together. 1" work fine for frames. 1 1/4" also work fine for frames.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

1 inch BeA staples for frames, 7d Maze(U.S.A) nails, galvanized, for supers. 


Roland


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## FishmanMike (Sep 13, 2008)

That's right Roland. Can't go wrong like that.:gh:


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

I've been thinking about purchasing an 18V battery nailer to take in the field. Boy does it make me angry when a frame bar lifts off the frame. Has anyone tried any of the battery operated guns? Pros/cons?


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

chillard willard said:


> HVH, I know what your talking about holding the frame further down. I was 14 when I was putting frames together for a beek and a staple curved out the side and went through the tender flesh between my thumb and pointer finger. learnt a good lesson that day.


Took one to the knuckle this last year.
Those 2 1/2" roofing staples can really hurt but they are great for sucking the parts together when there is a little warping/cupping.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

>>The only reason that I use the big staples is that they tend to force the joint together.

I agree. I use a narrow crown, mainly becasue thats the gun I have avaliable, but definetly if you are to make a choice, go with a larger staple head


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## Intheswamp (Jul 5, 2011)

That's the right width, adamant. Pay attention to what the folks said about watching where you put your hands...the legs of the staple will blow out the side all along and if your flesh is there...inch:

I use 1" staples along with glue. I found I had problems attaching the bottom bar with the stapler so I went back to using frame nails to attach those bars. My frames are wedge-top/grooved-bottoms.

Ed


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## redbee (Dec 29, 2005)

soak the ends of your bottom bars in water before stapleing no spliting


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## Sadler91 (Nov 6, 2011)

http://www.fastenerusa.com/products_c144306.html

Cheap Staples ^


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

I like the frame building jig simply because it allows you to work hands off. I've been nipped by a finish nail or two over the years and it is not fun. Just takes a moment of thinking about where you are placing the nail and forgetting where that other hand is. Nails and staples do not always drive straight. they like to follow the grain of the wood if given the chance.


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