# Video on Frame Assembly, Wiring, Foundation



## Robbo (May 11, 2008)

Nothing special guys - just how I do it here - It might help someone out, or someone might contact me with some good advice some day.



got a spare 10 minutes of you're life?

http://www.youtube.com/user/oldschool500#p/a/u/0/rvUe5ikCwec


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## brac (Sep 30, 2009)

Really good video, On the inside of your frame assembly jig, there are grooves for the sidebars, good idea. Did you make this jig? Could you post a picture of one side of the jig (close up). 
Thanks


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## river_rat2005 (Jan 19, 2009)

yea i would like to build one myself. how do you make the slots for the inside of the jig


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

Thanks for sharing. That was a very good instructional video.


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## dickm (May 19, 2002)

Great video. I like the jig. I made some from the plans on this site. Compared to yours, they are a little clunky. I like the wire heater. I assume the center 2 pegs we see are not electrical connections? (of the 4 items in a row) I use a 70 yr old DC power supply made for working on radios. I'm told a battery charger will do but the newer ones may sense that a battery isn't there (You may need a battery too.) I use a stapler and put one next to the hole in the frame where the wire will run across it. That eliminates the eyelets. I use one nail, inserted with a pair of pliers, in the center of the end bar. I tie one end of the wire, run it through the frame and bring the end back to the same nail. For tension, I go to the opposite end of the frame and inset a brad (using pliers) and pull the wire sideways and insert the brad to hold tension. Since I usually use wired foundation, I usually just run the wire in a cross. (X). I never extract deep frames anyway. That's all I know.

Dickm


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

Very nice video Robbo, thanks for taking the time to make it up and share with the rest of us. :applause:


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## Ted n Ms (Apr 25, 2008)

river_rat2005 said:


> yea i would like to build one myself. how do you make the slots for the inside of the jig


On my jig the slots you are referring to is just little sitcks that are placed for spacers to keep the end bars from tipping over. :thumbsup:


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## willrich68 (Jan 8, 2010)

Great video. But wouldnt it be a lot easier to go with just the empty frame and let the bees do what bees do and draw out their own foundation. It would cost less money and require less time. Just a thought from a new beek.


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## jajtiii (Jul 11, 2008)

That's an outstanding video.

It is, however, a bit sad to visualize how inefficient I am at putting together a frame...


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## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

That video is WAY COOL!

But your shop is WAY TOO CLEAN!

Nice job,

All the best,

Grant
Jackson, MO


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## mudhoney (Mar 31, 2008)

X2
WOW if only i could be that organized.
Building the jig probably would take a fraction of time that free handing ten frames would for me! I ve done a lot of lookin on utube but this one is tops, thanks for sharing.:applause:


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Here is the still version and the original jig.....
http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/framejig/framejig.htm
Easiest way to cut the slots is with a jig saw, but I nibbled mine out with multiple cuts on the table saw.


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## greg watkevich (Jan 23, 2010)

I just completed building 4 hive bodies, 4 supers, covers and bottom assemblies and needed to find a good way to assemble a bunch of frames quickly and accurately. Your video makes it easy. A great jig. My problem is finding 3/8 pine stock, without having to plane down 3/4 stock. Local lumber yards don't seem to carry 3/8 stock in our area. Any Ideas?
greg watkevich


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

I thought everybody had one of these:

http://www.youtube.com/user/oldschool500#p/a/f/0/xx0ZRGYXLhs


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

My comments:

I staple on a table height bench, less strain on the arms and shoulders, better visibility looking down on the frames.
You did not put a staple through the sidebar into the top bar, an important staple to me.
I grommet the end bars with a stubby tool before assembling frame, then if needed I can whack them with a hammer. Looks like your frame wood is softer that mine.
I assemble standing up, but I wire sitting down. After stapling I dump the frames out of the jig all standing up on their topbars, so that I can immediately drop an upside down super over all ten at once to cut down on handling separate frames.
I sit at a wiring table with the frame held by a screw in each upper corner and the bottom bar stretched a bit over a third screw. In that position I can hammer in the wire brads and hammer sink them. 
I also embed sitting down, standing up only to juggle box fulls of frames.


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## Robbo (May 11, 2008)

Cheers for the comments guys - apprecaite it here - A bit of time goes into making videos like that on your own, so thanks again 

Ill have some time monday night to get some piccys of the inside of the jig.

it came from guilfoyles - hmm, just checked and their website is down, but some info is still there?? This is the basic info, but I cant find their box jig thing.

http://www.johnlguilfoyle.com.au/Web pamphlets/How To - Beg a.pdf

Good stuff Frank - Im after alternate/differnet ways to do things - I just like seeing how other people do it. I have thought about inserting eyelets prior to assembly after seeing a demo on youtube. Also, you are right about the bench height - it would be easier on a lower bench for sure - If I have to build many more frames I'll get someone else to do it, or make a lower bench  

Just following your advice on the clean shop Grant - a great read you have put togther - Im not much of a reader, but that piece I got from you, I couldnt put it down!!


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## Robbo (May 11, 2008)

yea I see guys from my local club put staples or nails in from the side, and also put the wire holding nail/tack in different places/positions - I dont believe that side nail is needed is all - never had one of these staples let go. I might stick one into a old frame I am refurbishing, but not on the new stuff. Thats just my take on it.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Robbo said:


> places/positions - I dont believe that side nail is needed is all - never had one of these staples let go.


Sometimes a frame is attached to the frame below it, or to the inside of the box. I have worked poorly built equipment where I only got out topbars with one inch long nails and no glue, instead of the whole frame. For the two minutes and twenty extra nails it takes, it is nice insurance against that problem.


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## Robbo (May 11, 2008)

heres that piccy of the inside of the jig too


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I can't imagine why you need all those little spacer blocks. On mine, I just size it so the end bars are butted tightly together, no little guide blocks needed. Works great.


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## pcelar (Oct 5, 2007)

Ross said:


> I can't imagine why you need all those little spacer blocks. On mine, I just size it so the end bars are butted tightly together, no little guide blocks needed. Works great.


Without spacers they are not diagonally square (top bar and bottom bar are not exactly above each other.) *So while top bars are perfectly aligned bottom bars' spaces are all different, not properly spaced*.


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## Robbo (May 11, 2008)

Thats how it was when i bought it - You dont want to see me doing timber work/making jigs etc haha


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

> Without spacers they are not diagonally square (top bar and bottom bar are not exactly above each other.) So while top bars are perfectly aligned bottom bars' spaces are all different, not properly spaced.


And it works just fine without them. The shoulders on the bars, when packed tightly together do a fine job of keeping everything straight enough for glueing and nailing. Look at my jig. It has nothing what so ever to do with having square frames.


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## Robbo (May 11, 2008)

A few piccies of the jig used - I get a few emails requesting these, so here ya go.


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