# What nails should I use?



## sidpost (Oct 13, 2015)

I have Titebond II in the gallon jug for glue but, what do I do for nails? Brushy Mountain says to use 7D's but, no one around here has them. Would 6D or 8D galvanized nails be good alternatives? How important is the 7D vs. 6/8D's?

I have 6 hives and another 18 supers to build so far so, I want to make sure I'm ordering the right nails.

TIA,
Sid


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## Sky (Jul 7, 2015)

go for the 8's. 7's are 2 1/4 inches- 6's are 2 inches - the 8's are 2 1/2 - either will work, but the 8's would be the better choice and exceeds the standard "penetrates twice the thickness" rule . Use galvanized or stainless - if you can find twisted or ring-shanked nails that are galvanized even better...

Sky


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

you can tell by looking but try lowes and look at #8 box nails. box nails are smaller dia and less adpt to split. If you can find use galv.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

Good advice from beeware. When I nailed, I used galvy box 8's and did just fine. Actually liked them a lot.


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## DirtyLittleSecret (Sep 10, 2014)

Home Depot and Lowes carry as regular stock #7 & #8 galvanized. Usually just a few boxes though! Buy by the 5# box and it'll save some $.


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## sidpost (Oct 13, 2015)

DirtyLittleSecret said:


> Home Depot and Lowes carry as regular stock #7 & #8 galvanized. Usually just a few boxes though! Buy by the 5# box and it'll save some $.


Yes, they were sold out today when I stopped at Lowes. It looks like I can buy some online and have them "shipped to store" for no charge. That should hold them for me.


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## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

2" 18 gauge 1/4" crown staples work nicely to!


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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

sidpost said:


> I have Titebond II in the gallon jug for glue but, what do I do for nails? Brushy Mountain says to use 7D's but, no one around here has them.


7d galvanized box nails are the proper nail for the boxes.

They may think that you are asking for *common* rather than *box* nails. I have had the same problem, there is not as much call for box nails, so the people in the store may not be as familiar withe them.


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## sidpost (Oct 13, 2015)

ralittlefield said:


> 7d galvanized box nails are the proper nail for the boxes.
> 
> They may think that you are asking for *common* rather than *box* nails. I have had the same problem, there is not as much call for box nails, so the people in the store may not be as familiar withe them.


Thank you for the clarification. It looks like I can order *Grip-Rite 5-lb 7D 2.25-in Hot-Dipped Galvanized Smooth Box Nails* from Lowe's and have them shipped to the house for free.

I suspect you are right, they are looking for common nails which seemed a little thick when I looked at them. I started to grab some of them on impulse but, I didn't want to split my wooden ware out with them.


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## sidpost (Oct 13, 2015)

Tenbears said:


> 2" 18 gauge 1/4" crown staples work nicely to!


Are you using those just for the frames or, for the supers and hives too?


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## AR Beekeeper (Sep 25, 2008)

Decking or Drywall screws work really well too. They are slower to install than nails, but they don't back out.


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## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

I have been using 5d cedar siding nails. 1 3/4 long ring shank stainless. you better make sure its where you want it before you drive it home.
for frames I got a harbor freight 30 dollar air stapler. works reasonably well. if I make plywood boxes I use their 2 inch staples instead of nails. imo its the glue that is the most important. and paint.


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## warrior (Nov 21, 2005)

I use stainless trim screws.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/7-x-1-5-8-in-x-1-lb-Stainless-Steel-Trim-Screw-MAXS62762/203563793

But when I use nails these are the best I've used.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-...ank-Siding-Nails-5-lb-Pack-7HGSTHS5/100152593


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

A ring shank or "splitless" galvanized nail works real well. More often, the nail is used to hold the wood together until the glue bonds the two pieces together.


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## sidpost (Oct 13, 2015)

warrior said:


> But when I use nails these are the best I've used.
> 
> http://m.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-...ank-Siding-Nails-5-lb-Pack-7HGSTHS5/100152593


*Thanks Warrior!* Those look like a great cost effective choice for me.

http://www.grip-rite.com/us/en/fasteners/nails/wood-a-hardboard-siding-nail


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## capitalbeesupply (Jul 28, 2013)

sidpost said:


> I have Titebond II in the gallon jug for glue but, what do I do for nails? Brushy Mountain says to use 7D's but, no one around here has them. Would 6D or 8D galvanized nails be good alternatives? How important is the 7D vs. 6/8D's?
> 
> I have 6 hives and another 18 supers to build so far so, I want to make sure I'm ordering the right nails.
> 
> ...


If your buying unassembled equipment from a supplier, the correct nails should come with the equipment....at least that is the way we and many of the other manufacturers do it...


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## BeeBop (Apr 23, 2015)

capitalbeesupply said:


> If your buying unassembled equipment from a supplier, the correct nails should come with the equipment....at least that is the way we and many of the other manufacturers do it...


If you buy boxes from Mann Lake the nails are "sold separately".
I'm using galvanized screws on mine.


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## SteveBarker (Dec 3, 2015)

i ordered them from HD.


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## philip.devos (Aug 10, 2013)

kaizen said:


> I have been using 5d cedar siding nails. 1 3/4 long ring shank stainless. you better make sure its where you want it before you drive it home.
> for frames I got a harbor freight 30 dollar air stapler. works reasonably well. if I make plywood boxes I use their 2 inch staples instead of nails. imo its the glue that is the most important. and paint.


+ on the air stapler; I got a compressor, air stapler, hose and 5/8" (for frames) and 2" nails (for boxes) from Harbor Freight for right at $100 TOTAL. It sure saves a lot of time putting things together. For the boxes I use Titebond III with the 2 inch nails. For the frames I don't glue, but double nail horizontally.


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## sidpost (Oct 13, 2015)

capitalbeesupply said:


> If your buying unassembled equipment from a supplier, the correct nails should come with the equipment....at least that is the way we and many of the other manufacturers do it...


My supers didn't come with nails. They were relatively cheap so, I thought ... "How hard can it be to grab some nails?" Little did I know I knew so little about nails.


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## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

sidpost said:


> Are you using those just for the frames or, for the supers and hives too?


Two Inch is a bit long for the frames. I use them for hive bodies, a 1/4 inch crown staple has close to the same friction surface as a #7 nail. and although 1/4 inch shorter the countersink 1/4 inch. Time saving and just as reliable, Over the 20 years I have used them. I have no trouble assembling and painting 40 deeps in a day. And I am old and slow :lpf:


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## sidpost (Oct 13, 2015)

It looks like I can use 1 & 1/2" crown staples for the hive bodies and supers. I'll get some short ones for the frames. I will look around some more though and might mail order a 2" stapler. It looks like that may be the better option for me.


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## Tigger19687 (Dec 27, 2014)

AR Beekeeper said:


> Decking or Drywall screws work really well too. They are slower to install than nails, but they don't back out.


I was going to ask if this was ok. I have a box of decking nails and like the fact that nails will hold better.
And Yes, I would pre-drill holes to make sure all is good.


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## warrior (Nov 21, 2005)

Careful with screws. Drywall wall and decking screws may look the same but decking screws are better. Drywall screws are for interior work and are not coated to be weather resistant, they will rust. Decking screws are as the name suggests meant for decks are are coated to resist weathering and rust. Also be careful when torquing down, especially if using a power drill. In the softwood used to make hives a good drill can sink a screw deep and the bugle heads will split the wood (cypress is exceptionally prone to splitting). If you can live with exposed screw heads then a pan head or truss head (wide heads that are flat under the head like a washer) will pull up tight without splitting the wood.


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