# A perfect setup, but ...



## GaryG74 (Apr 9, 2014)

Do a search for cleohogan's trap out procedures. He'll probably pick up on this thread and give you excellent trap out information, in addition to the threads.


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## RIbee (Apr 26, 2015)

someone always needs to remove a tree...


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## burns375 (Jul 15, 2013)

I would try to talk to the construction crew, see what the timing looks like and ask for permission. 

The hogan trap itself has a remove screen cone inside. When cone is in place every bee that comes out is trapped. You can place open brood in the trap after a couple days to anchor the bees, bring out nurse bees and try to lure the queen out. By no means am I an expert. I've only completed 2 and they were complete trap out, homeowners wanted the bees gone. 
Some info here if Cleo doesn't respond. https://honey-sun.com/tech-tools/hogans-bee-trap/ 

I made my trap a little different than cleos. I have a small bottom box (no frames) that houses the adapter to the tree, trapout cone and entrance. Then just I set my hive bodies ontop that base. When Im ready to harvest I pull the box off and put it on a bottom board. 

Here is a pic of it in action. Be thankful the entrance if only a few ft off the ground!


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

If they are removing the tree for the construction project why not get them out in a day and get your queen. Since the entrance is low, drill a series of pilot holes till you find the top of the cavity and enlarge this hole to about an inch. Stick the cone over the entrance and smoke them out follow it up with a rag soaked in bee quick in the dome of your smoker and smoke some more. Won't be long and every bee including the queen will be out of the tree


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## hudsoncreek (Jul 17, 2015)

Thanks so much for the good information. It is appreciated. There is a lag time of about 4 months before this site is completely cleaned off, so I have some time. The owner has already granted permission, so now it is up to me and the bees. My main concern/worry was about the introduction of the frame of brood/eggs. I have two fairly new hives and was reluctant to "steal" from them without having a real good idea on what I was doing. Do you wait a couple of days and try to have a certain number of bees in the trapout hive, or do you put the brood in at the onset?
Mr. Craig, I was wondering about that idea, so thanks for chiming in. I might just try it and see what happens. The tree is an old snaky Chinaberry tree which is not valued in Austin, even though we are in the tree hugging capital of the world.


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## jadebees (May 9, 2013)

Here's an alternate, perhaps you could cut the tree youself, and take the whole trunk to your home. Then, trap out at your leisure. You may do better with the 1-time disturbance.


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## Fishmaster50 (Apr 30, 2015)

jadebees said:


> Here's an alternate, perhaps you could cut the tree youself, and take the whole trunk to your home. Then, trap out at your leisure. You may do better with the 1-time disturbance.


That is sorta what I did. Buddy cut tree down not knowing bees in it. This is what I did


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## hudsoncreek (Jul 17, 2015)

Prepped my beetree site yesterday and will be putting on the funnel trap this evening. As stated before, this tree is very close to my office where I was hoping to relocate them if possible. My new question is this, according to Google Earth the distance between the sites (as the bee flies) is approximately 9000 linear feet, so do you think this is far enough to prevent a mass return? I do have other options, but wanted to keep them in an urban area since there is just so much that is in bloom year round. There is no tellin' how badly I will mess this up, but am excited about giving it a try.


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