# Michael Palmer nuc plans.



## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

For the frame feeders, I use the 1" sponges. Sponge is easy to work with. Can be cut with a pair of scissors.
Then put them together and all wrapped with a clear big plastic bag. The slit cut into the sponges will make an
area to hold the syrup. I use a gallon plastic bag to hold the syrup in. A wick with cotton on top will drawl the 
water out for the bees to sip. This way there is not drowning of the bees. No water is leaking out either.


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## seamuswildflower (Apr 2, 2011)

l staple a screen to a 2 inch frame put the frame up against the tops of the mini frames then a jar with 3 very tiny holes punched in the cover. only problem the sugar eats the holes larger and covers must be replaced, when the holes get to large the sugar water runs out and kills any brood below. incites robbing also lost a queen that way!


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## firebug (Aug 27, 2011)

Thanks for the help. Im trying to make the feeders MP uses to divide a 10 deep into two 4 frame nucs.


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## joshk (Mar 31, 2010)

There is a divided nuc with a feeder in the middle at this website, check it out and see if it is what you are looking for.

http://www.tc.umn.edu/~reute001/Plans.html


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## winevines (Apr 7, 2007)

firebug said:


> I am looking for info on how to build the nuc and frame feeders MP talks about in the vids. How are the feeders sealed. I am new at bees and woodworking so any help would be great. Thanks


A few years ago someone on here posted a pdf of plans. Try searching the forum or PM me and I can email it to you. I have never used it, but I do have this pdf somewhere.


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## rail (Apr 1, 2011)

Look at Jay Smith's nucleus and feeders (page 48), they work very well!!!

http://archive.org/stream/queenrearingsimp00smit#page/48/mode/2up


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## rail (Apr 1, 2011)

My Jumbo nucleus hive with division board in center. Lower entrance for one side and top entrance for other side.

Feeder board, can feed both nucleus.


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## jim81147 (Feb 18, 2013)

How do you work these nucs ? When you remove the top cover of a divided hive wont you have a good chance of queens entering the side she is not supposed to be on?


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## BMAC (Jun 23, 2009)

Not really. Your queens should be around their perspective brood nest, not malingering with another colony. Besides have you ever noticed queens try to hide from light?


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## Spark (Feb 24, 2011)

Here you go

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Js4Fr6YVNQM


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## Saltybee (Feb 9, 2012)

What I remember, the way I remember his feeders. Never built, never saw more than pictures. They are tight fit and serve as a movable divider. Do not fit in a special groove. Have a center divider with side to side drainage, a side entrance for each nuc, just a hole. No ladder other than what the bees add.
My memory is just glue to seal edges.


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## Joey (Mar 19, 2015)

Curious if anyone has posted plans for Michael Palmer style double nucs anywhere online? I would like to get a couple of these built for next winter. 

Thanks


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

Joey:
Use the plans for a hive body, ans cut a grove from top to bottom on the inside of the ends just wide enough to hold your division board.
Make it deep enough that the dividing board blocks the frame rest rabbet so bees can't get past it there.

Put a shim running the length of the bottom board right down the middle of the bottom board, as tall as the sides of the botom board, so bees can't go under your divider.

Voila.. a double nuc box.

I put a piece of entrance reducer 5 or 5 " long at the end of the shim running down the middle of the bottom board just to put some distance between the entrances of the two sides.
This has worked well for me.
I've also used the homemade bottom boards you see in Mike Palmer's videos on his double nucs.
They work well, too.

BTW:
Beeline seel double division baod feeders that can be used in side-by-side nucs.
They are on page 12 of the current catalog and sell for $12.02

Have fun.
Enjoy your bees.


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## Joey (Mar 19, 2015)

Beregondo said:


> Joey:
> Use the plans for a hive body, ans cut a grove from top to bottom on the inside of the ends just wide enough to hold your division board.
> Make it deep enough that the dividing board blocks the frame rest rabbet so bees can't get past it there.
> 
> ...


So I can make a 10 frame deep with a division board down the middle? What's the width of the division board? And I'm guessing 4 frame nucs sitting on top? Would happen to have the dimensions for a 4 frame nuc? I'm sure I could figure it out if they fit perfectly on top of a 10 frame box and I'm using the standard 1"x12".

Thanks for your help!


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

I cut four pieces of light guage angle metal used for suspended ceilings. Screw them to the inside of the super, leaving a vertical slot the width of the divider board. 

When making the divider board, cut/leave tabs to sit on frame rest of super to block bee passage. Also make the divider board full height of super plus space between super and bottom board. 3/8 plywood makes a solid divider board.


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

Adding angle stock to make a slot should work well, and if you're modifying an existing box is almost certaimly easier than cutting grooves in the ends for the divider.

It does require buying the angles a d fasteners, though.

If you are making a new boe for the nucs, cutting a groove in each end is faster and cheaper.


For a standard 19 7/8" long box, I make the divider 18 7/8" long, and the slots it fits in a whisker over 1/4" deep.

I make the height the same as the box it is going into.

If you are using a standard bottom board, add a shim down the middle the same thickness as the height of the rim of the board above the bottom board...usually 1/2" for the slallow side and 3/4" for the tall side.

I usually just cut a 19 7/8" x 16 1/4" piece of exterior plywood for a bottom board though, and nail a 1/2" high, 3/4" wide shimm all the way around, with a gap on opposite corners 3 or 4" long to serve as entrances for the nucs... Don't forget to run a 1/2" tall x 3/4" wide strip down the middle so bees don't cross under the divider of your box.

On this video, you can see one of this style of board in use in Michael Palmer's apiary at 2:24.


These boards are much cheaper than modifying a conventional bottom board, work well, and if painted last for years.

I keep it simple and cheap whenever possible.

The 4 frame boxes should be 8 1/8" wide overall if you want them to fit flush with the sides of a 10 frame box when they are side by side on top of it.

Have fin.
Enjoy your bees.


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## Beregondo (Jun 21, 2011)

Almost forgot...
Division board width isn't critical.

I've used everything from 1/8" Masonite to 1/2" plywood.

I generally use 1/4" to 1/2" ply, whichever size is either on hand or cheapest to get.

Have fun.
Enjoy your bees.


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## Joey (Mar 19, 2015)

Beregondo said:


> Adding angle stock to make a slot should work well, and if you're modifying an existing box is almost certaimly easier than cutting grooves in the ends for the divider.
> 
> It does require buying the angles a d fasteners, though.
> 
> ...


Thanks so much for taking the time to write all of that. Very informative! I will start my builds this weekend using this info.

ONe question though. You said there was a video?


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## j.kuder (Dec 5, 2010)

I make a bottom board with a cleat down the middle for the Masonite or tile board divider to rest on. Masonite sticks up above the box a1/4 of an inch and use a piece of 1/4 inch plywood for an inner cover. When doing inspection leave 1 side covered


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## billabell (Apr 19, 2010)

If you screen the feeder holes on the inside the bees cannot get out when you refill the jars.
Sorry, I am referencing Rail's Post #8.


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## JMoore (May 30, 2013)

In Michael's video on The Sustainable Apiary (YouTube), I belive he said he was moving away from using the divider feeders. I wish I had known this before a built a bunch of them.  I used tempered Masonite (supposedly water-resistant), used titebond 3 on all seams and joints, and even coated the inside with spar varnish. Most still leaked. So, I still use them as dividers in my bottom boxes, but I rarely put syrup in them. Next time I build more, I will just cut the vertical groove in my boxes to slide a divider board into.


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