# Foggers



## Karl (Jun 18, 2002)

Hi All: With this being somewhat of an off season I have been doing a lot of reading on the FGMO. Exciting prospects and I feel it is certainly worth giving it a try this year. I have just purchased a new Burgess propane fogger off E-BAY. Price was $30.00 plus $6.00 shipping. This will be my second one as I have owned one for years to roll back musqitoes in the yard. Just a heads up for a place to look for a bargain. Good luck in the New Year. Karl


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

You've probably thought of this, but I would clean it thoroughly because it's bound to have been used as an insect fogger and not a FGMO fogger. Any residue could wipe out a hive.


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## Karl (Jun 18, 2002)

Thanks Michael: Had also thought of that. It's billed as new , never out of box but I will give it a good flushing as a precaution. No use risking the hives. Karl


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## fat/beeman (Aug 23, 2002)

hello 
can someone tell me how to use the fogger just bought one.
how long in minutes do you fog in entrence also do you fog inside too.
can I use cannola oil in place of fgmo?
cann't find it local.
thanks=====Don


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I can't answer all of the questions, because I haven't used the fogger (although I have one ordered that should be here today), but I know that the flash point of Cannola oil is lower than the flash point of the FGMO. I think you'll end up with a flame thrower if you use the Cannola. But I suppose if you really want to, you could try the Cannola oil as long as you test it on an empty hive in a safe place that it won't burn anything down. Just be prepared.


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## The Honey House (May 10, 2000)

Beeman,
You should be able to find FGMO at the local drug store or even Walmart. If you can't
find it there, send me an email and I'll hook you up with some.


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## Hook (Jun 2, 2002)

I got a fogger last week. It takes a while to get it hot enough to work. I think I read in past posts, that you need only fog the entrance for 2 seconds. I could be wrong, but it was already talked about on here.


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Dale Richards
Dal-Col Apiaries
Drums, PA


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## Karl (Jun 18, 2002)

Checked EBAY auction site again tonite and the company I bought mine from has listed another. Typed in "fogger" on the search. Just info in case anyone is looking. Karl


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## Juandefuca (Mar 16, 2000)

Hi to all those who have question about the fogger 
Yes , It is strongly advised to purge the fogger of undetermined source.
The fogger has to heat properly to function.
You may have to light it in wind shades to maintain the initial ignition.
The fogging should be applied up to 4 seconds . I have not adhered to this "Rule" and witnessed NO ill effcts .
Rather I relied on the fog exit at the top box to ensure ( FOR ME) the sufficient dispersion of the fog within the hive , hereby assuming the desired effect to the colony.( This a possible point of controversy)
The easiest way to apply the fog is via the screened bottom board . 
Otherwise blow the fog into the entry but not to fry any bees present there . 
Do not point the fog nozzle down but maintain a level position. 
This is easiest accomplished by elevating the hive onto stands. 
Do NOT apply any other "OIL" than that which has been tested with valid research by Dr Rodriguez ! 
The viscosity is not advertised on merchandise in Drug stores relative to laxatives ( Mineral oil) .
The viscosity does play an important role of the application. Use only the recommended material. ( If you look into the websites of the oil producer , you find an array of different specs which are not applicable to our use !!)
That does not mean that the laxative is invalid . It is just a point of precaution to be sure it can be applied .
If you should find that the fogger does not function as it should ,turn it back to the dealer for replacement or parts to modify it . 
Do not hesitate to report any discrepancies of the fogger you may encounter , it is important to all of us .
Do not expect an immediate drastic result in mite population . You have to consider the effect of reinfestation as well as the duration of the treatment . Have patience , it will take some time but it defintely has an effect if you are persistent . And all othr management criteria apply also .
Happy fogging and read all the posts within this forum . You find most of your questions answered there . Also read the data of the reseach done by Dr Rodriguez which are found on this website . Let your mouse do the walking.
JDF


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## Karl (Jun 18, 2002)

Just an update. Received my new fogger today which was purchased on ebay. Came through in great shape, brand new. Hope for early spring with warm weather to start using it. Karl


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## Dr. Pedro Rodriguez (Feb 5, 2002)

Hi Karl and other brothers in the beeyards.
Karl: Is the fogger a Burgess?
Please write to my e-mail and let me know how much it cost you including shipping and taxes.
Best regards.
Dr. Rodriguez
[email protected]


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## beekeeper28 (Nov 27, 2002)

I just purchased a Burgess Fogger last night. I'm going to try using no pesticides 03. Does FGMO eliminate the treatment fot T-mites as well? Anyway wish me well in this attempt.


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## Dr. Pedro Rodriguez (Feb 5, 2002)

Hello all.
I have posted at least 12 times indicating that FGMO is highly effective against T-mites. Yes, FGMO does get rid of T-mites especially if using the fogger treatment. I think that I mentioned in one of my previous posts that eliminating T-mites had been a sort of a bonus for me beause I did not expect it. Dissection of honey bees from hives ttresated with FGMO show zero t-mites, in fact very clean tracheas. 
Regsarding the fogger. 
I have also posted on this subject many times, especialy regarding lighting problems. 
I think that the machine does a good job. It reminds me of my childhood days when we used donkeys at the farm to transport produce and other farm products. The donkeys performed well as long as we treated them with kindness and did not abuse them. Best of all, it did not take much to keep them going. Again, comparing our foggers with our way-back-when dayas of the donkey, the machine iwll perform well once we learn how to operate it properly. I have oned the same fogger ever since I started my FGMO trials. Like, Helmut, I made modifications to make it operate better, or should I say better to my satisfaction. I changed the pumps' gasket (substituted it with a leather 
gasket) and drilled through the intake valve to allow more propane into the burning coil. 
Perhaps stretching the spring may give it a little more zip to it, but in general it should be okay with just changing the gasket. 
Like I say, I made these changes to improve its performance. The modifications that I made are rather easy to make and if the owner is not handy with tools, I am sure that there are many handcrafters who may be willing to do it for a low enough fee. 
Folks, the fogger is proving to be an excellent inexpensive machine to perform an excellent and efficient job getting rid of honey bee parasitic mites. There are other rather expensive machines but that do not outperform the Burgess. I recommend that we try to work with it and may be by word of mouth learn how to make it work satisfactorily. I know that not all of us are mechanically inclined, but we should try to be inclined to be understanding. It does not make any sense to "kick the fogger issue" until it is dead. It works, believe me. Just try to learn how to make it work for you.
Best regards and happy beekeeping.
Dr. Rodriguez


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## Juandefuca (Mar 16, 2000)

Hello to all 
And apologies to all which received comments on the pump malfunction and my wrong analisys .

The manufactures manual points towards this "problem" and is easily remedied . 
It so happened after many uses and after my modification of the burner that the pump piston wedged and consequently the pump did not function. 
The reason for this was a plugged nozzle at the exit of the coil 
The backpressure did not permit normal function . After cleaning the nozzle orifice with a welding tip cleaner It works just as it should . 
My head is bowed in shame to have send members onto the wrong track .
yours with very red face 
Helmut


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## Dr. Pedro Rodriguez (Feb 5, 2002)

In my opinion, it takes a real man to recognize one's errors on an international forum such as this. My hat is off to you brother Helmut.
Dr. Rodriguez


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## Russ (Sep 9, 2001)

I have been reading the comments and questions on this forum for quite some time. I read a lot of the same questions from people that are new to FGMO. Seems to me that a section titled F A Q would answer a lot of these questions. What do you think Dr. Rodrigeuz? Dale


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## Dr. Pedro Rodriguez (Feb 5, 2002)

Hi Peter, Dale and all .

Peter: Definitely No. You have not read enough about FGMO. I have warned people time and again NOT to utilize mineral intended for veterinary purposes. It will kil bees. Please try your local butcher supply stores in your area as a previous fellow beekeeper wrote on the forum today. Make sure that you buy USP White Mineal Oil of 0.80 - 0.86 density. 

Dale: I do like the idea of an FAQ type on the forum. I thought that it had been approved.
Has it Barry? Is it possible to have one?
By the way, I there will be another ariticle coming up in the April issue of ABJ answering a cascade of questions sent to me after the ABJ January issue article. There are nearly 30 questions answered. Howecer, the same questions were asked by at least ten people so you know that I received well in excess of 2oo questions. For those of you who did not get your questions answered, please do not hesitate to write or call and ask me again.
Best regards to all.
Dr. Rodriguez


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## Juandefuca (Mar 16, 2000)

Russ 

I just see that no one answered your suggestion . That is understandable because of the multitude of posts with overlapping themes .
Your suggestion is certainly valid and even might reduce the redundency of questions although he are legitimite . 
The owner of the website is working on a modification of features ,but as you can imagine , it is a lot of work . 
Equally Dr Rodriguez would have to be involved in this and that takes input and planning . 
I am sure that the Dr would has no quarrel with it since he constantly has to repeat the same material over and over again. 
Thanks for the suggestion 
JDF


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## Jorge (Sep 24, 2002)

I have the problem that my (Burgess) fogger has a hard time restarting when it is hot. It just wont ignite. Has anyone had this happen? What do you do about it? Wait until it cool?

Thanks

jorge


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## Juandefuca (Mar 16, 2000)

Jorge 
Sorry , I have not been at this theme for a few days to comment on your question , or rather, Observation. 
You are touching on a sensitive nerve !
Should you encounter this problem consistently , Go back to the dealer and squawk loud ! 
Only this way can we get some satisfaction . Other ways do not work !.
But before you squawk get yourself a tip cleaner for Acetylene tips . The come in a bundle of different sizes . One will fit the orifice at the tip and make sure it is not obstructed with carbon or other type of blockage . The fogger has the tendency to extinguish when in breezy conditions . Also to light it use a campstove lighter instead of matches . That way you will not use a full box of matches [  ] everytime you want to use the thing.
This feature is of random occurance.
Best of fogging 
JDF 
Addendum : To clean the thing , it may be of use to unscrew the tip from the tubing to prevent debris pushed into it . If the carbon is too hard to clean , take a drill bit to bore the stuff out .


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## The Honey House (May 10, 2000)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2314298529&category=20540


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## pepper (Mar 8, 2003)

lowes have the burgess propane foggers for $59.00
Pepper


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## WT (Apr 26, 2003)

For California residents: The Burgess fogger is not sold in California without a pesticide applicators license number, and most out-of-state suppliers will not ship in violation of the restriction. If you find a supplier on the web, make sure you call in person to place the order. If they don't know, they will take your order and ship the fogger.


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