# Nails are shipped with assembly of the hive required but would screws be better?



## NW_Mark (Jan 23, 2012)

Nails,some glue and you are good to go..


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

If you want stronger hive then use glue with the screws. I use coated fence screws so not have to worry about 
rust. Found out they are tough that I had one hive fell down but still holds. The paint got chipped off a little though.
Haven't drop a nail hive yet. If you want to save a little then the nails will work just as well. If you use the screws then
drill a pilot hole is better for guiding them in.


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## honeybeebee (Jan 27, 2013)

I use titebond II...it's cheaper than titebond III and not as thick.....the nails just hold it together until the glue cures....be sure the corners are square....measure corner to corner...it should be the same...start nailing in middle of corner and work back and forth to outside......that will pull out warps......oh, yes, you can use screws, just be sure holes are predrilled or it may split the wood


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## MattDavey (Dec 16, 2011)

If you want it to last longer, use screws. It's worth the little bit of extra work.


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## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

I'd recommend the smaller dia. #6 screw instead of anything bigger , I'm going with #6 x 1 5/8 ceramic coated deck trim screws pilot size might be 3/32 not sure , found them at the local hardware store 6.99 per 100 comes out to around one dollar per med super.


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## NewJoe (Jul 1, 2012)

I have put them together with nails and screws. My opinion ( just an opinion with no real science to back it up) Is I like to glue and nail them together preferably with a brad gun. 

Let me explain (again just opinion):

when nailing with the brad gun, there is such a small amount of wood damage. When screwing together, the wood is compressed by the head of the screw, and the wood fibers are damaged a little bit. This may not sound like it means anything, but I THINK that the little bit of damage to the wood fibers around the screws actually is more subject to water damage.

Again...please don't crucify me....it's just an opinion.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

With some glue it won't much matter. Technically yes, the screws are probably the better choice but I use staples and glue and there's not much that will break the joint. Couple of years ago I forgot to staple one side of a box. I had glued and fitted it but must have been interrupted while stapling. I even sanded, primed and painted it and never noticed. Last year I was culling old frames and finally noticed it. Even though I laughed and put staples in it, I'm not sure I made it any stronger. It seemed fine just the way it was and it had been outside for a couple of seasons.


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## FlowerPlanter (Aug 3, 2011)

After 10 years of freezing and warming nails can back out screws dont.

I use Titebond III on everything I do.
Get it at Amazon by the gallon and save


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## jdmidwest (Jul 9, 2012)

I use 2" coated exterior deck screws. You will have to drill the hole out a little larger or you will split the wood. I don't think you will need as many screws as nails. And the coated screws will not rust and run down the side of the box.


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## hilreal (Aug 16, 2005)

With a good cordless drill/driver I can put screws in faster than nails.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>Would screw provide a better construction and minimize the chance of the nails backing out overtime?

Absolutely. But you probably need to drill a pilot hole so you don't split them. By the time I do a pilot hole and then the screw it gets time consuming.


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

I prefer glue and deck screws. But in truth, with finger joints, nailed ones will last a very long time and stay together until the box is rotted. They won't prevent concave cupping of the wood though.

How much effort do you want to expend?


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## Rusty67 (Mar 9, 2010)

I always use screws and no glue. I do have to pre-drill, though.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Staples and glue (Titebond II) cheaper than III and ALMOST as good......


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## throrope (Dec 18, 2008)

When I found the nails, I felt like sending them back.

I like self tapping deck screws and IMHO glue isn't needed with them. I did glue with Titebond II which will take out any wiggle. I also used 1" crown staples with glue and a single deck screw on each face of the corner on rabbet joints.

As long as your good at keeping your fingers clear, nails are fine, but I suggest using an exterior grade glue with them.


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## tommysnare (Jan 30, 2013)

ok here goes. use the nails provided if you must. most important is titebond II or III. i use titebond II and nail it with the brad gun. honestly....u can use screws but i dont really think it makes a difference. nails are to hold it tight while the glue sets in thats all. the only place where a few times i have gone back and used screws is on a couple hive bodies in the corners where the frame rests are. its funny that no matter how many of us KNOW not to pry those frames out a certain way (especially when the girls glue them down) some of us still get in there and pry like and idiot and POP....a corner come loose. 


but seriosuly....tbond II or II and brads. good to go. they'll rot before that glue wears out.


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## imthedude (Jan 28, 2013)

FWIW I just finished 4 deep and 6 medium boxes. I went the finger joint, glue (also titebond), and 6d galvy nail route. Between the strength of the fingers and the glue, I don't think it matters if you screw or nail. You have to do a pilot hole either way, and it's probably the same time to swing a hammer 3 times as it is to stab in a screw.

Long story longer IMO it doesn't matter.


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## Rusty Hills Farm (Mar 24, 2010)

Personally, I glue and screw. Works either way you do it, tho.

Rusty


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## windfall (Dec 8, 2010)

IN a finger joint/box joint the nails provide the holding power in shear not in tension/withdrawl, and it works beautifully because you have a bunch of opposing members coming from both directions.
As pointed out if you use glue and the joints are well cut, you really dont need either, but it's nice to have something to pull and hold it togtehr while the glue dries.

Nails are so much faster and if properly sized don't need a pilot....and they are much cheaper.


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## MelanieWoosley (Nov 11, 2012)

vowelsctbee said:


> Like I have admitted in earlier post my wife and I are completely new at the art of Bee Keeping.
> The Hives we purchased are like most any others have purchased not assembled.
> Reviewing the assembly process I noticed that nails are provided and there is not any mention of alternatively using screws.
> 
> ...


I have nothing to add except that I'm in LaGrange, pretty close to you! We have a nice beekeepers assoc, meets first Friday of the month, 7:30 pm at the Oldham County Extension office. You are welcome to come


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## Duranthas (Mar 17, 2012)

I used these. Best of both worlds?


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## imthedude (Jan 28, 2013)

Duranthas said:


> I used these. Best of both worlds?


those would work as well. ring shanks are almost impossible to pull out and instead have to be beaten out with a hammer.


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## windfall (Dec 8, 2010)

Ringshanks are great for lots of things, but their additional holding power is lost when driving into end grain as on a box. They are a still a good choice as they run a narrow shank and relativley wide thin flat head....like a box nail, which nearly eliminates splitting


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## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

I was thinking about the deck screws with the tapered shank which make it easier to split the wood but don't know if they make a good coated flat head screw .The spiral nails will work good also and no worries of splitting but I like the way screws suck the joint tight.


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