# Queen Castle Questions



## rmaxwell (Apr 23, 2014)

I plan to build and have studied several versions of queen castles. I'm thinking about extending the deep box enough to create additional space underneath for queen cells and space above for feeding patties if needed. That would mean that the space above and below the frames would violate bee space. I would think that bees would cycle in and out of this setup quickly enough that it wouldn't be a problem. For instance, once they have built up enough, you would likely transfer them to a nuc or 8 frame. For those who have created this additional space, do you have difficulty with comb being built where you don't want it? 

Also, do you typically attach the bottom so that you can pick it all up as one unit or do you use a detachable bottom? 

I am planning to extend the dividers and use multiple covers. Do most feed with mason jars through the individual covers?

What are things you would and would not do if you were building queen castles.

Thanks.


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## jbraun (Nov 13, 2013)

rmaxwell, I to am starting into queen castle building. Today I built the first 3 out of 10 deeps. I'm using 1/4" dividers so I cut my grooves at 8" for the middle and 4 1/4" for the two other grooves. I was going to add 3/4" strips to the edges of a solid bottom board with entrances cut on different sides. I just realized that I would also need to either make my dividers 3/4" longer or add strips to the interior of the bottom board.

This configuration would also double as a double nuc. If you just remove 2 boards and leave the middle board in you have a double nuc set up. 

My covers will also have holes for mason jar feeders. I think Lauri just posted on her site that she uses 2 3/4". I just checked the size and it's a little loose.

Good Luck on your new side of bee keeping.


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## rmaxwell (Apr 23, 2014)

Thanks. Are you basing your build off a standard deep or have you deepened it for the bottom?


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## jbraun (Nov 13, 2013)

I'm using standard deeps. I don't plan on needing space below the frames for queen cells. But as I mentioned I'll add 3/4" x 3/4" strips on the bottom boards just like I do on all of my bottom boards. This doesn't seem to bother the bees and they don't build burr comb on the bottom of my frames. I'll be grafting and putting the queen cells on the top portion of the frames. I make all of my woodenware and I'll make all of my deeps with the 3 grooves from now on. It's just 2 more steps and all of my deeps can have multiple uses from this point forward.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

I used the full width of a 1x8 for my medium castle. I would not be concerned with the bee space too much and I ddefinitely want the additional clearance under the queen cells hanging off a frame. 

I wouldn't worry about having additional space for pollen sub either. 

This photo shows the inside of my homemade "queen castle". The two mahogany pieces (along the sides) are about a half inch thicker than the other bottom pieces and this provides clearance for ventilation which is lacking in the Brushy Mountain assembly.


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## jbraun (Nov 13, 2013)

rmaxwell, check out Lauri's post: Improved divided mating Nuc. Better for feeding when nights are cold Spring/Fall 9/13/2014 Sorry I don't know how to do links.


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## rmaxwell (Apr 23, 2014)

Thank you all.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

For feeding my queen castle sections I have 3/16" holes drilled into the inner cover sections and I use jar feeders with brass tubes. The jars are enclosed with a second box.

It works very well.


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## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

A bit of extra space may be easier to deal with not enough.

I've been experimenting with candy board style feeding for mating Nucs. A hole in lid so they can get to an open can filled with hard cooked candy that covers it. It's working well so far.


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## rmaxwell (Apr 23, 2014)

BeeCurious said:


> For feeding my queen castle sections I have 3/16" holes drilled into the inner cover sections and I use jar feeders with brass tubes. The jars are enclosed with a second box.
> 
> It works very well.


Awesome. I like that.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I wish someone would market a lid like that... very handy to put a small hole in the lid and let them propolize it when the feeder isn't there...


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## jcolon (Sep 12, 2014)

Can you post different views?



BeeCurious said:


> I used the full width of a 1x8 for my medium castle. I would not be concerned with the bee space too much and I ddefinitely want the additional clearance under the queen cells hanging off a frame.
> 
> I wouldn't worry about having additional space for pollen sub either.
> 
> This photo shows the inside of my homemade "queen castle". The two mahogany pieces (along the sides) are about a half inch thicker than the other bottom pieces and this provides clearance for ventilation which is lacking in the Brushy Mountain assembly.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

jcolon said:


> Can you post different views?


I only have a couple of photos for now...


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## jcolon (Sep 12, 2014)

So the bottom is 4 bars and 3 planks where the bars are thicker than the clamps and there is about 1/6" gap for ventilation? Correct?


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

jcolon said:


> So the bottom is 4 bars and 3 planks where the bars are thicker than the clamps and there is about 1/6" gap for ventilation? Correct?


That's right.

Since the queen castle doesn't get knocked around like other boxes I didn't hesitate to build mine with glued and screwed butt joints.


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## BVaSwarm (Apr 24, 2014)

Could you use 1 medium frame to provide the space for the queen cells? I have thought about putting a bar 2/3 of the way down and foundation above on 1 deep frame.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

BVaSwarm said:


> Could you use 1 medium frame to provide the space for the queen cells? I have thought about putting a bar 2/3 of the way down and foundation above on 1 deep frame.


My "queen castle" is made from full width 1x8 lumber which is perfect for medium frames. 

I took this picture this afternoon. The two middle cleats are slightly thinner then the outer ones. The two masonite panels can be seen extending beyond the top edge of the box (approximately 5/8").


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

I am making a couple mating boxes today and I am trying to come up with a way to create space for the bottom like yours BeeCurious, but I want to make it like a shim that is removable so I can later use the boxes for 5 frame nucs or 10 frame boxes. I am thinking about extending the divider boards down into grooves into the shim lined up with shims in the box.

After a little thought, maybe even using the bottom shim as a cover, when not using as a mating bottom.

Came back to edit, because when I started to make the castles, my saw motor failed. Well, I knew it was going out because the noise it was making. Now its time to get another saw. This one is 18 years old.


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