# A visit to Bush Farms



## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

I visited Michael Bush this past week. I wrote about it on my blog, you can follow the link in my signature if you want to see the pictures, but the text is mostly the same.



It was an excellent opportunity to see how another beekeeper works and to experience the methods he has written about first hand. I thought I’d explore them and discuss some pros and cons for an up close view of his methods. Like many beekeepers familiar with Mr. Bush’s work, I was one who had read his website, viewed his pictures, and pondered his results, but had never seen them in person. Now having seen them in person, I can more accurately decide which of his ideas to try and to weigh the options in a more enlightened fashion.


First, I’d like to discuss Mike’s use of eight frame mediums almost exclusively for all his normal hives. His standard configuration is eight frames of PF-120 (Mann Lake Ltd.) and a single frame of Perma-comb. This results in a box in which there is no space for the frames to move around and everything fits near perfectly. Also with the PF-120’s are foundationless frames but they’re not quite as numerous.


The first thing that struck me about this method is the way the hive is setup in units. In my hives with ten frame deeps, a frame is a unit. In Mike’s hives, a box is a unit. Therefore, his walkaway splitting technique is to make two bottom boards empty and deal the boxes from a hive back and forth on those two bottom boards. So each hive now consists of every other box from the original hive. To make up the size, he places a few empties on the bottom, or sometimes on the top. With this method, one doesn’t look at the individual frames, nor does one need to. I had to have a look just for funsies, but it wasn’t necessary. I doubt splitting has ever been faster.


The PF-120’s contribute fantastically to Mr. Bush’s method. His method requires far less work than the standard beekeeping method. There is no frame wiring or foundation installing. If a hive has died out and sat around for years getting full of wax moths, all you need to do is pull the frame out, and peel off the layer of webs. It’s almost exactly like removing the lint from the lint trap in your clothes dryer. The foundationless frames are just as easy. The Perma-comb frames need almost no care at all. Put it back together, and the box-unit is good to go.


Mike also has a couple of top bar hives of which one was in operation when I was there. It has a beautiful and prolific Carniolan queen heading it up, and the hive was beautiful. 


Mr. Bush has also experimented with just about every other standard and nonstandard equipment style there is and he has plenty of scraps of old hives and equipment to prove it. I saw a Dadant-deep style hive in person for the first time, as well as such others as 12 frame deeps, observation hives, several types of pollen traps, long hives of 40 frames or more, nucs from 2-10 frames, and just about everything I’ve ever read about on his website.


So, after trying Mike’s 8 frame medium system, I have a few criticisms from my perspective. Firstly, an 8 frame hive must be stacked especially tall for higher honey production. Mike can’t do this, nor can I due to high winds, especially for him. But his focus is not honey production, it’s queen production, so it works very well. I do like the way a box is a unit that doesn’t need to be messed with, but I prefer the ten frame style for the stacking ability. Also, since the frames are packed in pretty tight, it’s hard to pull them out without rolling a bunch of bees. Again, this works well for him but not for me.
One other downside is the cost. Medium boxes and frames cost only slightly less than deeps, and the same goes for 8 frame. All the same cuts need to be made on each piece of woodenware and only slightly less wood is used, so there is no cost benefit, and in fact, the reverse is most often true. For a certain amount of money, you get more square inches of comb with a ten frame deep hive than pretty much any other configuration. 

I am considering eventually making the switch to ten frame mediums. I like them because they are lighter, and because splits can be made without concern for where the queen is. Mike was even so gracious as to let me borrow some ten frame plastic mediums and frames to try out. Someone gave them to him to evaluate, but since he doesn’t use ten frame equipment, he hasn’t yet. So, I’m going to try them out and build some wooden ones and see how it works. If I like them better, I’ll switch. I don’t enjoy lifting or carrying deeps full of honey, and my extractor only holds 9 deeps but 18 mediums. Also, I have a sneaking suspicion that mediums extract much better than deeps and blow out less. I also think they’ll have fewer problems with foundation buckling.


Overall, his system is perfect for what he’s doing. The rapidity with which his out yards can be processed is amazing. The heaviest boxes don’t require straining to move. Splitting is straightforward and speedy. When I convert, it will be far easier to convert from deeps to mediums than it will be to convert from 10 frame to 8 frame. Furthermore, I really think ten frame is what is right for me, and that’s what each beekeeper needs to decide for themselves. What is right for you? Spend the time doing the research and figure out exactly what you want and need. My advice for all is to never get your bees in the same year you decide to become a beekeeper.


Aside from the boxes and frames, the most important thing Mike is doing is keeping bees treatment free. His bees are treated with nothing, absolutely nothing. He is the most visible and vocal proponent of treatment free beekeeping, and he has shown for years that it works and even works on a large scale. 


For those of you that have been asking for Mike to write a book, never fear. It will soon be here. He’s spent a lot of time organizing what he’s written online into book form. You can still find the vast majority of it online though, and he’s happy to tell you that. But, there’s nothing like having something solid in your hands to read. I was helping him proofread it this week, and it is quite good. Look for it in hardback soon and in a three part ‘beginner, intermediate, advanced’ paperback edition as well.


Mike was kind enough to host me and another beekeeper this week. He put up a tipi for us to stay in. I enjoyed it. 


It was a great opportunity to see Mike’s operation, as limited as it is in scope at this time. Next year, he’s going to be ramping up into full time queen production. His queens are expensive, but I’d say they’re well worth it and I plan to be proving it with my wallet. Next year, I’m planning on going back and learning his queen rearing techniques. Thanks again Mike! 


Oh, one last thing. The area around Mike's place is beautiful. I mean, other than the corn and soy beans.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Thank you for this well written article. Now I believe I will go off to your blog and look at the pics and study it a little more.


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## dixiebooks (Jun 21, 2010)

It's official. I envy Solomon Parker. I am looking forward to that book. -james


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## mrspock (Feb 1, 2010)

dixiebooks said:


> It's official. I envy Solomon Parker. I am looking forward to that book. -james


Myself as well. I'll be ordering and advance advance copy. 

Mike, consider me volunteered to beta-test a first draft - Rest assured, I'll still be buying several copies once it gets printed.

Solomon, thank you very much for the review - You're a lucky fellow to have made the pilgrimage.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I am jealous that you got to spend a night in Michaels' teepee. I bet that was nice.


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

No need to be jealous or envious. It was a 14 hour round trip.

I forgot to mention his top and bottom boards. For tops, he uses plywood with shims to create an entrance at the front. Across that, he nails a strip of wood with a single nail so it can be rotated to be open or to reduce the entrance down to about an inch and a half. Many of his bottom boards especially in outyards are simple screened frames with no entrance. That's right, screened bottoms with upper entrances, and year round too. However, many of his bottom boards are solid with a syrup dam and a screen so he can feed syrup in the bottom if necessary. You'll have to consult his website for concise details.

The important thing is the economy and simplicity of his systems. I myself use upper entrances and block off lower entrances during colder seasons. It's pretty effective and virtually eliminates condensation problems.


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## D Semple (Jun 18, 2010)

Very cool, thanks for posting. Very much looking forward to Michael's book.

Don


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## Benthic (May 1, 2011)

Add me to the list of those who are looking forward to Michael's book! Anyone know when and/or where it will be available? (Here's hoping for a Kindle edition...  )

Brian


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

> So, after trying Mike’s 8 frame medium system, I have a few criticisms from my perspective. Firstly, an 8 frame hive must be stacked especially tall for higher honey production. Mike can’t do this, nor can I due to high winds, especially for him.

Which is why my stands are only 3 1/2" tall and the hives are up against each other.

> But his focus is not honey production, it’s queen production, so it works very well. I do like the way a box is a unit that doesn’t need to be messed with, but I prefer the ten frame style for the stacking ability.

Take out the 8" blocks and you've gained another super. Put them up against other hives and it won't matter anyway.

> Also, since the frames are packed in pretty tight, it’s hard to pull them out without rolling a bunch of bees. Again, this works well for him but not for me.

You could add one follower easily and still do eight frames. You can add two if you have 1 1/4" frames.

> One other downside is the cost. Medium boxes and frames cost only slightly less than deeps, and the same goes for 8 frame. All the same cuts need to be made on each piece of woodenware and only slightly less wood is used, so there is no cost benefit, and in fact, the reverse is most often true. For a certain amount of money, you get more square inches of comb with a ten frame deep hive than pretty much any other configuration.

True. The difference may cover your costs for back surgery after the insurance company covers their share... but probably not the pain and suffering or the missed work... 

>When I convert, it will be far easier to convert from deeps to mediums than it will be to convert from 10 frame to 8 frame. 

I don't think so. It's easier to mix eight and ten frame boxes even on the same hive than have a mixture of frame sizes. Cutting one box down from eight to ten is less work than cutting ten frames down from deep to medium...

>Thanks again Mike!

You are welcome.

The book will show up on amazon.com and barnesandnoble.com when it's available which with luck should be within a month from now.

As Sol pointed out, it's not a lot of new material. You can basically read it for free. The Kindle everyone keeps asking for, but it's already available electronically for free...


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

Something I was just thinking about today, I might like to use both deeps and mediums so I can offer both sizes in nucs. Of course, I'm not worried about supers and brood boxes, and I have no compunctions about putting a medium frame in a deep box.

I'm going to be setting up my first outyard this week. I'm going to use a custom pallet system not too dissimilar to Mike's stands. I've discovered I have far too many bees on my property here. Anyone ever have their strongest hive robbed out by all the smaller ones? It happened to me.


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## seal62 (Apr 17, 2011)

Well done ...all around . Every word was worth the read . Thank you both for taking the time . I did get better queens ..TY ...i already lent it out to another old boy . For sure i'll get the new book the day i see it . If i may .. id like to see a vid on Jay's method ..some parts where kinda hard to follow . Thanks again ..


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## Benthic (May 1, 2011)

Michael Bush said:


> <snip>
> 
> As Sol pointed out, it's not a lot of new material. You can basically read it for free. The Kindle everyone keeps asking for, but it's already available electronically for free...


I understand that most of the content will be the same as what's on your web page. But I'm guessing that in book format it will be a bit more organized. And if you give it to me in Kindle format, then I can carry it with me to read when I hit the road for days at a time for my 'real' job.

But the Kindle thing is just a suggestion. I'm getting a copy either way. 

Brian


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## DeeAnna (Nov 5, 2010)

What works fine for me is this: 

Save the document as a Filtered HTML file via MS Word or equivalent, if the book is in a word processing format. Tweak the HTML to suit. Save HTML to mobi (kindle format) or other e-book format of choice using Calibre (free e-book cataloging software). 

I don't let Calibre convert a non-HTML file directly to an e-book format -- I don't think this works well the times I've tried it, compared with doing the conversion to HTML by hand.

As a learning exercise, I converted a pdf of Storch's At the Hive Entrance to mobi (kindle) format ... for personal use only, since it's still in copyright. Worked very well.


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## Adam Foster Collins (Nov 4, 2009)

Solomon Parker said:


> ...Anyone ever have their strongest hive robbed out by all the smaller ones? It happened to me.


Your video showing this on your blog is stunning. I've never seen anything like it. 

Adam


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## Oldtimer (Jul 4, 2010)

Sol I checked out your robbing video. While top entrances have some pros, robbing is one of the cons.

Bees will more easily defend an entrance next to the brood. An entrance on top of several boxes of honey, if the hive population drops for any reason, is an invitation to robbers. If I need to have 2 entrances to a hive I'll have the standard bottom one, then put chocks about 1/2 inch thick on top of the front two corners of the second box to make an entrance there, between the second and third box. That will normally suffice for even the strongest hive.


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

Solomon Parker said:


> I've discovered I have far too many bees on my property here. Anyone ever have their strongest hive robbed out by all the smaller ones? It happened to me.


I may be off topic but you did pose the question. Yes I have seen robbing like this (unfortunately many times) but no I havent in a large 5 story colony without some reason. Give us some background, robbing events like this are usually preceded by some sort of colony manipulation, in an overpopulated area particularly if it involves essential oils. Are the top supers, perchance, "wet" extracted comb or "sweaty" comb that had been sealed up somewhere? Were several of the boxes just put on above an excluder? Had the base hive been recently tapped of bees and or brood? Had a new or much larger entrance been recently installed on the top box, is it a different set up than your smaller hives? Is there the possibility that a large number of hives been recently moved into the area? The best clue you give is that you feel there are too many hives on your property and I am assuming some flow recently shut down. Please enlighten us inquiring minds want to know.


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## Benthic (May 1, 2011)

DeeAnna said:


> What works fine for me is this:
> 
> Save the document as a Filtered HTML file via MS Word or equivalent...
> <Snipped for brevity>


Thanks very much! I'll give that a try.

Brian


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

jim lyon said:


> Give us some background.


I hadn't touched this hive in several weeks, the deeps had been on there for over a month. The only thing I had done was replace the bottom box and a round entrance with what you see in the video a week before. That day, I had checked several walk-away splits to make sure they were queenright. From one hive on the other side of the yard, I accidentally left a frame out when I was working. That frame got cleaned out pretty quick but the hive it came from was fine. That little mistake may have kicked off the robbing, but I have never seen the strongest hive in the yard be the one who gets robbed.

There is also little to no flow going on. The hives are not losing weight, but they're gaining little to no weight at this time. This is how it happens here this time of year. I've already moved four hives away, and I'm planning to move four more as soon as I can find a place to put them. There are currently 13 hives in the yard. I'm going to be posting about that here in a few minutes.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

I have a question about height for 8 frame mediums. How high is too high? Let's assume a 60-70 mph wind (single hive).


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

You winds are the issue. I have had six full sized mature trees snapped off at the trunk in the last two years. We have HIGH winds. The winds take a shingle or two off my roof every storm. I put them against each other and stack them up as high as I can reach often and before I went with lower stands, have put them on with a step ladder. Putting them on isn't so bad, but carrying a full super DOWN a step ladder is not fun.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

We have three ft dia. trees blow over all the time (box elders). Regardless of the wind I do not want my hives above my head. If it comes to it I will pull supers. I surely would not go more than 4 mediums high through the winter.

Thanks for your comments. I see no problems for me using 8 frame mediums.


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## Gypsi (Mar 27, 2011)

I was introduced to the concept of "chicken math" on backyard chickens.com. But since I can only eat so many eggs, 6 hens was plenty. Now bee math, it has potential. I have 1/3 of an acre, about 1/4 of that devoted to bees, storage shed and ponds. I have a rural area with little pesticide use, and neighbors who expanded their garden to enjoy my bees. I am having so much fun discovering the pallet I was going to tear up might be useful... aye, bee math


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## Batman (Jun 7, 2009)

dixiebooks said:


> It's official. I envy Solomon Parker.


Ditto.

I would like to get in touch with a local commercial operation so I can check it all out for myself, although I like Michael's approach with treatment free beekeeping. Solomon, even with your 14 hour round trip drive, you were a mortal walking amoungst a god for a day. :applause: 
I bought Michael's book and feel that even though, as he stated, all the info is available for free on this site, power comes and power goes, or you're not near a computer when you need the info, so having a hard copy in close by is worth every penny spent.

Michael, I don't know if you hear it enough, but "thank you for all your help." 

C2


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

Funny thing, I told Mike he had been deified amongst a certain demographic. He was hardly thrilled.


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## wdcrkapry205 (Feb 11, 2010)

Solomon, I admire your website and blog. Very professional.
I have to agree with Jim Lyon, something had to set off the robbing frenzy. I'm guessing as Jim said the upper entrance straight into the honey or your hive had gone queenless. When had you last seen open brood/eggs?
I have always believed robber bees could detect queenless hives by the abscense of queen pheromones, quickly.
One time years back I wound up with 80 hives here where I live and never saw robbing like that, and the bees I had at that time could be vicious. I also had 8 to 10 hunting dogs on the place, I would come home and my dogs would have their water buckets bayed because they counldn't get a drink of water for the bees. They would empty all the 5 gallon buckets of water each day.
I would think just about any location could support 25 hives.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>"thank you for all your help." 

You are welcome.

For all you who bought the book, please feel free to leave a review on Amazon.


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

The hive is not queenless, I saw her the next day after all the honey had been removed.


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## SERGE (Sep 14, 2010)

Solomon Parker said:


> That's right, screened bottoms with upper entrances, and year round too.


Solomon,
I remembrer communicating with Michael about this, and understand that he usially closes off his screened bottom boards for the winter time. Is that correct Michael?
-Serge


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Mine hives are all 3 1/2" off the ground now (at one time they were on concrete blocks) and they are all up against one another, so the between the grass and the other hives the wind is pretty much blocked blowing in the bottom. I would not leave a screened bottom exposed, but I probably have a lot of hives with the trays out right now but the wind blocked by one means or another.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

If you leave the tray out won't the bottom board get full of crap so you can't get the tray back in? It is not easy to clean that area with the hive on it.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>If you leave the tray out won't the bottom board get full of crap so you can't get the tray back in? It is not easy to clean that area with the hive on it. 

I typically take the trays out in summer for ventilation anyway and put them back in in winter. I don't understand what you think is blocking putting them back in unless it is grass... the other "crap" is on top of the screen and the trays go under the screen.


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