# Multiple Micron Filters... I need advice.



## Kirk Osborne (Oct 7, 2012)

I have been looking into filters for running my extracted honey through. I am seeing these 600, 400, and 200 micron filters that fit nicely on top of 5 gallon buckets. 

I'd appreciate any feedback on these devices that you may offer. 

What kind of stuff is being removed at that level of filtration? Anything good being removed?

Pros and cons of these types of filters?


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## bevy's honeybees (Apr 21, 2011)

I asked this question at the Fl Bee College this year--micron 600 is a strain and does not remove any pollen or nutrients. It removes wax and bug parts, the undesireables. 
I hope I got the correct answer because that's what I want. I still get a layer of "foam" particles on top of honey after it has settled for a day. I'm still trying ways of getting that out without pulling off too much honey. The saran wrap laid gently on top and then pulled off seems to be the best method. 
I don't know what the other filters remove. I only have 600, the kind that fits in the bucket. The only other con, then your bucked holds a bit under 4 gallons. Other than that I"m happy with this type.


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## DC Bees (Sep 24, 2009)

I have the 600 micron i use mainly for creamed honey or if i have to do some crush and strain.The honey needs to be warm for it to work or you may have to leave it strain over night.They are a little on the flimsy side,other than that they work fine for removing the smaller particles.


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## mmiller (Jun 17, 2010)

bevy's honeybees said:


> The only other con, then your bucked holds a bit under 4 gallons. Other than that I"m happy with this type.


I good fix for this is to cut the top off another bucket for a spacer. The "spacer" with filter then sits on top of your honey bucket and you can get that extra gallon in it.:thumbsup:

Mike


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## rlsiv (Feb 26, 2011)

And to piggy-back on mmiller's comment... you can stack two 5 gallon buckets on top of each other, each with their own strainer, to avoid pouring more than once.
The 600 filter goes on top, then the 400 filter below that, and the "finish" collection/bottling bucket on the bottom.


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## RedDave (Apr 5, 2010)

I asked this question recently and was told to use all 3 filters stacked together and it works great. The honey looks slightly cloudy but compared to "store-bought" it looks much better. Like real "raw" honey which most folks want.
Dave


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## WilliamsHoneyBees (Feb 17, 2010)

I don't use the 200 micron only the 400 and the 600. It leaves a nice product. The top of the bucket does have a film on it and I leave it. The last few quarts from a bucket get bottled up in quarts that goes to customers who like "extras" in their honey. No kidding!


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

The fine bubbles on top are a result of air entrained in the honey when it is extracted. Only way to get it out is to allow the bulk honey to stand for a day or three and bottle off the bottom.

I don't worry about it, and I just strain with a nylon paint filter since I'm not all that excited about perfectly clear honey. I personally think it tastes better unheated, too, but that's a personal thing and I'm not handling a large amount. 

Peter


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## RustyKnight (Oct 11, 2012)

I've used all three filters stacked together on top of a bucket with great results. Honey is slightly cloudy but looks great. I don't really see anything strained by the 200 micron after it has gone through the 600 and 400. 
My set up for honey from the extractor is to pour through the honey gate into the filters on top of the bucket. I use crush and strain method for honey recovered from cut outs. I have one 5 gal bucket with 1" holes in the bottom I line that with a nylon strainer bag from Brushy Mountain. That goes on top of my bucket with with the honey gate. The lower bucket has a top with most of the center cut out, just about 1" of the rim is left on to support the upper bucket. I let the honey drain for several days through this system. When I'm ready I will put the full bucket on a table with the honey gate over the edge. The gate lets me regulate flow rate. Below the table is another bucket with the three micron filters on top. Open the gate and let gravity take care of the rest


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

I use just the 600 and 400, too. I extract with the honey gate open into 5 gal buckets with a piece of 1/8 in. mesh laying across the 600 strainer (catches enough large chunks to extend time between cleanings). Then when I transfer to my bottling bucket, I use the 400. It catches very little. I think it's mostly just tiny chunks of wax. The key to it all working well is honey that is at least 90F, 110 is better.


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## codeboy823 (Aug 14, 2012)

I only used the 600 micron and I was pleased with it. Very thin film of some foam/bubbles on the top of the honey but then again I only let it sit over night before bottling it. No noticeable "stuff" in the honey even with a "coarse" filter of this type.


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## John D. (Sep 5, 2007)

I just use the 400. If too much debris builds up I just use a spatula to scoop it out.


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## CES (Feb 4, 2009)

I let the honey set over night in 5 gal buckets after extracting. Everything that floats to the top I scoop off with a comb scratcher into a small bucket. I dump what I have scooped off into my wax spinner to separate any honey from what was scooped off of the 5 gal buckets. Then I warm the honey to about 90/95 degrees and strain it through the 2 stage stainless steel strainer. I finish it off straining it through the 200 miron bucket strainer. This gets the smaller wax particles out but does not remove the pollen. I use 6 gal buckets as work buckets to do the straining so the strainer is higher than the 5 gal level. After the straining is complete I put the honey a regular 5 gal bucket. I do not conside any of this filtering. To filter one has to pump the honey through a filter and it comes out clear on the other side. Much like running oil in your car engine through an oil filter.


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