# Anybody got a simple hive mover design?



## DC Bees (Sep 24, 2009)

It's not free but it works pretty good, cost is around $80.00.
http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/DCBees/DSC01928.jpg


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## Fuzzy (Aug 4, 2005)

Any solution is going to be sketchy unless it includes something that protrudes into the hive handle recesses when clamped.
For me, a piece of angle iron about 2.5-3 inch long, bolted to the 2x4 worked great. Was able to lift and shift a hive with a couple of supers on top ( with help ).

However, keep in mind that any stack of boxes has the weight in the high area ( high center of gravity ) so ANY tilt can be treacherous.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Har far and over what terrain do you want to move. We moved our first hive with a 4 wheeled cart something like a garden cart. It was two deeps and two mediums.


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## beeup (Apr 10, 2010)

I've seen the 2 man hive moving tool they sell at dadant, mannlake, etc.., I was just curious about some homemade designs. My hives are on 4x4x8 posts set on there sides, 2 cinder blocks high. Lets say I need to move them from their current spot into my pickup truck bed, then over to a new bee yard.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

beeup said:


> I've seen the 2 man hive moving tool they sell at dadant, mannlake, etc..,


Those are worth the cost... hold the hives well, good for any terrain two men can walk, fit over telescoping covers, light weight, store easily, last forever. Anyone that can bend conduit and weld could easily imitate one.


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## Mustang (Jan 10, 2011)

beeup said:


> I've seen the 2 man hive moving tool they sell at dadant, mannlake, etc.., I was just curious about some homemade designs.


 I made this out fo a old chain link fence Gate only had to buy the bolts $3.00


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

beeup said:


> I'm looking to put together a hive moving tool instead of buying one. I'm thinking about a couple of 2X4's and some ratchet clamps, but I don't really have a working design yet. Anybody using a homemade hive mover out there? I'd like it to be able to handle 2 deeps.


Do you have a beekeeping friend? Two people can move a 2 deep hive easily if they know how.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Slide the hive onto a sheet of plywood. Two, three or four people lift it up and shove it in the pickup.


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## slickbrightspear (Jan 9, 2009)

wrap the hives with a couple of ratchet clamps. shove a 2x4 thru each side, clamp it down real tight and pick up and move worked for me in a pinch one day.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

One person standing on each side of the hive. Each person puts a hand underneath the bottom board near the front, tilting the hive back. Each places their other hand at the joint of the two boxes at the back of the hive. Doing all this w/ knees bent, slowly stand erect and move sideways to the vehicle.

Ace, before you make recommendations on moving bees, get some experience doing so. Your recommended method will end up w/ spilled hives.

If one must work alone, and you can't pick it up by yourself, something I have done a lot, maybe a handcart would work decently for you. But the uneven ground will pose problems quite often.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

That is why I asked how far and over what terrain. You always think I speak from no experience. If you can flip an eight foot hive over on it's back without the boxes coming undone why do you feel a three box hive will spill strapped to a four wheeled cart? I had no trouble moving our hive with the help of a 140 pound woman. Neither of us hurt our back. I don't think like a beekeeper when it comes to lifting.


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## Nabber86 (Apr 15, 2009)

Ace - With your method, dont forget the part where you put a 5-gallon bucket of water on top of the hive to stabilize it before moving. Those wind loads can really build up if you qare moving fast over smooth terrain.


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## Humanbeeing (Nov 23, 2010)

http://www.google.com/products/cata...noNCT9iDKMWYiALJrbGjAQ&sqi=2&ved=0CDUQ8wIwAg#

Slide a hive on, back over a ratchet strap, tighten it down, and roll. Works perfect when you are by yourself.


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## mike haney (Feb 9, 2007)

i moved one for a sick beekeeper a while back by taking the boxes apart (3 deeps) and restacking the hive in my wheelbarrow (2 front wheels, a LITTLE more stable than a regular one) and moving it the next evening when they had settled in. worked in a pinch.


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## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

I've often thought about buying or building something like this to mount in the back of my pickup or on a trailer to assist with moving hives when I'm too old and feeble to do it by myself. I'd have to build an 'L' shaped double fork that centers the load to handle the hive but I think it would work. I have the tractor at the home yard and can use it with the FEL hay fork that doubles as a pallet fork. Trailering the tractor and hauling it to an out yard would be a little overkill. Driving the tractor all the way there and back would be a long haul at a max speed of 30mph. Also hard on the tires but possible.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_74569_74569


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Humanbeeing said:


> http://www.google.com/products/cata...noNCT9iDKMWYiALJrbGjAQ&sqi=2&ved=0CDUQ8wIwAg#
> 
> Slide a hive on, back over a ratchet strap, tighten it down, and roll. Works perfect when you are by yourself.


Beautiful. A thin sheet of luan to make the sliding easier and its a piece of cake.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

Humanbeeing said:


> Slide a hive on, back over a ratchet strap, tighten it down, and roll. Works perfect when you are by yourself.


How does this "sliding" happen when a hive might be 6, 8, 12" or more off the ground?

Does the hive get lowered to the ground first? When is it cake time?


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Well what ever hight the hive is you have to shim your carrying device to slightly lower, say 1/8 inch. Use bricks, blocks, or dimentional lumber so it is stable and can carry the weight. Use your rachet strap to pull the hive on to the carrier if you need it. The hive might rotate as it slides on. Once the hive is on the carrier where you want it strap it to the carrier. Now mush young puppies and roll it where you want. Can you finger out the unloading?

* If you have strong upper body strength you can use a rope or sling around the bottom with your gut against the carrier to pull it on and off without the rachet strap. One way is quicker. I will let you guess.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

OK, so after the deer cart is up on blocks, one "simply" slides the hive onto the deer cart and ... 

I still can't decide when the "piece of cake" is to be enjoyed; after going to Pep Boys to buy some car ramps??


"Whatever the height... "


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

I've been moving hives all day today. Good thing I did not read this thread first... or guess I would have had to buy something or build something. All I do is smokem good and pop the top super off and carry it down to it's destination.... then pop the second super off and so on.... then reassemble on the pallet that I am filling in. I am making pallets of 4 hives from winter losses in order to prepare for moving the bees into the blue berries on Wed night. When there are a lot of them it can be hard work but nothing that requires over powering strength. And I am an old man whose not much stronger than a young tough woman.... at least some days I feel that. way. Most of what I read here sounds like massive over kill.


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## beeup (Apr 10, 2010)

Thanks old timer. I like your way since I already own a strong back.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird said:


> That is why I asked how far and over what terrain. You always think I speak from no experience. If you can flip an eight foot hive over on it's back without the boxes coming undone why do you feel a three box hive will spill strapped to a four wheeled cart? I had no trouble moving our hive with the help of a 140 pound woman. Neither of us hurt our back. I don't think like a beekeeper when it comes to lifting.


You said to get 4 people around a piece of plywood, you didn't mention a cart.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird said:


> Slide the hive onto a sheet of plywood. Two, three or four people lift it up and shove it in the pickup.


This is not a good idea.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Would make a great Youtube video!!


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

BeeCurious said:


> How does this "sliding" happen when a hive night be 6, 8, 12" or more off the ground?
> 
> Does the hive get lowered to the ground first? When is it cake time?


The OP asked about a two story hive.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Barry said:


> Would make a great Youtube video!!


Which one? The one where the hive being pulled by a ratchet strap comes apart into all its different supers and covers and bottom boards at night? Or the one where the four guys w/ the hive on a sheet of plywood stumble and flip the whole mess over on its top?

Some things I just wouldn't care much to see. Unless accompanied by the proper music.


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## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

Theme from the Benny Hill Show comes to mind...


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## Riverratbees (Feb 10, 2010)

I have a bad back real bad. I found a old dolly for moveing fridges and stuff with the big wheels. On bottom of dolly for stabilization purposes I have a 25lbs weight. My hives are all 12 to 14 inches off the ground. A friend welded me aflat support 12in off ground I just pick up a inch or two and slide under the hive strap it to dolly when I pull back little bumpcause it is not adjustable and I am off. If your industrious enough a person could make it adjustable It is not the best system in the world but it works for me eliminates alot of lifting made my own ramp for truck. Good luck


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Steve10 has a good lifter/mover/backsaver. Look it up.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

sqkcrk said:


> The OP asked about a two story hive.


Does that tell you the height off the ground? :scratch:


I really like the image of the deer cart up on blocks... 


I would go with Slickbrightspear's suggestion, but I think 2x3's would be sturdy enough.

As a hobbyist, I think a pair of 2x3's (or 4's) ratchet-clamped under the outer covers sounds easy.


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## valleyman (Nov 24, 2009)

After reading this thread I've decided that my plan to buy the Katz mover is by far the way for me to to go. Yes I can weld and bend tubing, but I have many other important things to do rather than having to tweak my version of someone elses perfected design. $75.00??

Folks some of you have forgotten the rule of not mud wrestling with a hog. Remember you can't win an arguement with a fool. He has the advantage because he can not understand when he is wrong, and therefore will, in his mind win every every time.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

sqkcrk said:


> Which one? The one where the hive being pulled by a ratchet strap comes apart into all its different supers and covers and bottom boards at night? Or the one where the four guys w/ the hive on a sheet of plywood stumble and flip the whole mess over on its top?


I suppose he could get a bobcat and do the Irish jig that I have heard some experts do when they flip them over.

My ways may not be your ways but they work for me.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

BeeCurious said:


> As a hobbyist, I think a pair of 2x3's (or 4's) ratchet-clamped under the outer covers sounds easy.


What keeps the covers from popping off and dropping the hive?

The OP didn't say anything about the hive being up off the ground or not, but, the method I described could be used no matter how high the hive is off the ground, reasonably. The method I described was used to pick hives up off the ground and place them on the deck of a semi, by hand.

My desrciptions of almost anything I Post are from personal experience working bees, not my imagination. Take them for what they are worth. Maybe what I say doesn't fit anyone elses circumstances. I am not even saying that anyone should do things the way I describe, just that they could if they want to. Maybe there is something I have done which someone hasn't considered. There certainly are many things I read which I never have done. many which I wouldn't.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

Two ratchet clamps ...


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

sqkcrk said:


> Maybe what I say doesn't fit anyone elses circumstances. I am not even saying that anyone should do things the way I describe, just that they could if they want to. Maybe there is something I have done which someone hasn't considered.


How is it that you don't give others the same latitude?


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Because when you don't have any experience you sometimes suggest dangerous things. Plus, you have no idea how many times I don't Post something when you do say something which would work or do no harm.

When I disagree, I don't care whether you have no experience, two years experience or 50 years experience, I'm going to Post my opinion. Too hot? What are you doing in the kitchen anyway?


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## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

Mark reminds me of Andy Nachbaur on the old bee line. He's a little short on diplomacy at times but I like to read his posts even if he's applying a little heat on me. Makes beesource entertaining and informative. Don't always agree with him or anybody else here all the time but that doesn't mean we all can't have more meaningful "discussions" here. Perhaps if you have less experience and are pontificating ideas you have not tried, it might be best to post them in the form of a question, asking others opinions on it. I've been keeping bees for 20 years now and still learn something here almost everyday. Keep it coming.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

lol, never been mistaken for a diplomatic person, that's for sure.

Were we in the hood, someone would be checking our "street cred" and not just once, until that "street cred" were well deserved and established and common knowledge.

I hope none of us are "dead" yet, beyondthesidewalks. As per your Tagline.


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## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

It's a double entendre(sp?). You learn everyday if you're doing something. When you die, you stop learning. Also, if you refuse to learn and adapt IMO, you're doomed or dead. The world around us changes, our circumstances change and if we don't adapt to those changes, we're dead. In many ways that's what happened in my beekeeping. I tried to keep bees the way my mentor taught me, not adapting to changes until it seemed every year I was purchasing new bees to watch them die. That's not beekeeping. Joining Beesource and reading here taught me much about what I needed to do to change my circumstances and become a moderately successful beekeeper again. This information is not in many books you can purchase and you must glean what you can from the poor or misinformed, but I credit Beesource and my "friends" here for helping get to where I am now. I wish it were as easy as it was when I first started. I have a romantic view of keeping bees, putting on supers and filling my honey tank which I haven't used in years. It's not like that anymore. It's more like a battle with challenge. I'm up to it.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Comprende.


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## valleyman (Nov 24, 2009)

Go Mark!!
But you didn't comment on my post of simply buying a cheap proven design! Or the mud wrestling!


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I thought you could tell by my actions how I feel about mud wrestling.

Actually I don't respond to every Post I read, but I will go look up what you wrote and get back to ya.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

valleyman said:


> After reading this thread I've decided that my plan to buy the Katz mover is by far the way for me to to go. Yes I can weld and bend tubing, but I have many other important things to do rather than having to tweak my version of someone elses perfected design. $75.00??
> 
> Folks some of you have forgotten the rule of not mud wrestling with a hog. Remember you can't win an arguement with a fool. He has the advantage because he can not understand when he is wrong, and therefore will, in his mind win every every time.


Good reasoning. I always believed in paying someone else to do what they know how to do and concentrate on doing what I know how to do.

But getting down in the dirt is so much fun. heh,heh


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## Kevin245 (Apr 5, 2010)

beyondthesidewalks said:


> I've often thought about buying or building something like this to mount in the back of my pickup or on a trailer to assist with moving hives when I'm too old and feeble to do it by myself. I'd have to build an 'L' shaped double fork that centers the load to handle the hive but I think it would work. I have the tractor at the home yard and can use it with the FEL hay fork that doubles as a pallet fork. Trailering the tractor and hauling it to an out yard would be a little overkill. Driving the tractor all the way there and back would be a long haul at a max speed of 30mph. Also hard on the tires but possible.
> 
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_74569_74569


I use this crane from NT. I mounted it to a base that slips into the stakebed pockets of my trailer. The plan is to build a lift bracket that will slip underneath the hives to pick them up. For now I use heavy duty ratchet staps and slip the cable hook under the strap. Works well as long as I can get the trailer into the load/unload site.


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## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

You know what they say, great minds think alike. I imagine a double fork, two Ls, side by side, where the bottoms of the Ls slide under the hive. The Ls would be joined at the top and then have a hook up that angles toward the center of the load so that when you pick up a hive it stays balanced. Even thought that I could cut grooves on the bottom of my bottom boards to accomodate the fork. This would make it real easy to move hives when I'm old and decrepit.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

If you ratchet strap the hive why do you need forks? Put a ring on the ratchet strap and just hook it with the winch.


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## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

I want something a little more dependable than a nylon ratchet strap. They might be handy for tying a hive down or keeping one together but I"m not going to use one to lift my hive. I want to lift it from the bottom, supporting and centering the weight so that I don't experience an oops. The ring could easily slide on the ratcheting strap and send the bees flying. Not for me. I'm thinking steel not bubble gum and bailing wire.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

You are aware that truckers use ratchet straps to tie down heavy loads. You are aware that nylon slings can lift tons of weight. There are ways of doubling up, looping, and securing the ring so it will neither slip or let go. If you want to make up a set of steel forks by all means do what you like to do. I like straps and ropes because they are easier to carry and have more flexible uses.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

If you cinch a ratchet strap down tight around a hive with a lift ring or a lifting 'J' hook placed under the ratchet strap, what happens to the Tel-top or other lid. Seems to me like you are inviting a staved in cover?  Because when pressure is applied to the lift ring or 'J' hook by way of upward tension on the lift cable, the lift ring or hook is going to cam over in place beneath the ratchet strap. 

Yea, Yea,  I know it is all relative to the shape and mass of the lifting ring or hook, divided by the square root of the downward tension on the ratchet strap, multiplied by the phase of the moon, (or 'sumpin' like that) :lpf: Don't anybody use hive staples now-a-days?

But if you are only moving a few hives every now and again, and your bees are not palletized, then a big honking coat hanger like devise ALMOST as long as a hive is long from front to back and with *2* ratchet straps cinched tightly down through the coat hanger device the long way, with the straps going all the way around the hive, then just a few inches from the front end and just few inches from the rear end of the coat hanger device will work. But do use a strong enough pair of ratchet straps. If you construct your coat hanger shaped device with 2 parallel bases the long way, that would be self balancing and even more stable. Also there will not be any twisting action that could crush or even scratch T-tops or migratory lids. This device can also be used to lift and weigh *questionable *hives in the fall, like when you are deciding whether to feed, whether not to feed, or whether to combine. Also helpful if you buy out a fellow beek and you need to loaded up your new bees and hives so y'all can do the Oklahoma thing.


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## mike haney (Feb 9, 2007)

Sorry


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

If you are moving one or two dbl deep hives by yourself, remove the telescoping cover, remove the top deep setting it on end on the tailgate of your truck. Pick up the bottom deep and put it on the deck of your truck where it is going to ride. Place the top deep back on top of the bottom deep. Repeat this process w/ the other hives in your yard until loaded.

Drive to new location and reverse the process.

I know Acebird has a broken back, so I don't expect him to do this, and maybe no one else is 6'3" and as strong as me, but, one can pick up most two story colonies by oneself, unless it's late summer or early fall and plugged w/ honey. This is not OSHA approved either.

Hive staple the bottom board to the bottom deep. Hive staple the bottom and upper deep together, if you feel the need. Take off the telescoping cover, leaving the inner cover in place. You may want to cover the hole in the inner cover.

Standing beside the hive, squat slightly and lean over the hive w/ your chest above the top of the hive. Grab the handholds, one w/ each hand. I prefer doing this bear handed for security reasons. Gloves don't work as well for this process.

W/ a hand in each of the front and rear handhold, press your chest against the top while lifting up on the hive using your knees and legs to lift. The hive will be sticking out in front of you. Walk a few steps over to your truck and place it on the deck.

I used to do this when I first pollinated and didn't have a Bobcat, couldn't afford one. Used to load 60 hives on my Dodge truck that way. Getting those last ones up on top were the worst.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

mike haney said:


> ".... a big honking coat hanger like devise ...."
> perhaps a "spreader" designed to hoist deer by their hind legs to clean them? built in detents for the straps and a center balance point, on sale sometimes for $9.95. plenty strong and cheaper than buying new stock to make one....


Yeah, maybe. Or, maybe y'all are over thinking this and should just do it.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

Acebird said:


> You are aware that truckers use ratchet straps to tie down heavy loads....


Yes I am. But truckers are also not in the habit of using a single ratchet strap to lift their big rigs by to change a flat tire. 

And when your cargo definately has to be there when the truck arrives, nothing beats the cold hard steel of a grade 8 log chain, a boomer and a long pipe cheater bar, nothing.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Mark is entirely right. You can get the whole job done by just lifting the hive up on the truck as one piece or pieces. Of course you will have to look more like Samson than Santa clause.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

The whimping of America.


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## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

" This device can also be used to lift and weigh questionable hives in the fall, like when you are deciding whether to feed, whether not to feed, or whether to combine."

That's another neat idea. You could use the crane and contraption to weigh hives also. Wish I had thought of it. I think I'll steal it and take credit for it.

I did preface my entry into this melee with the notion that I was looking for ways to keep beekeeping when I'm old and feeble into my twilight years. Let's face it, we're all mortal and someday our years are going to catch up with us. I love my lifestyle and plan to continue it well into my 70s. I could tell you about the old farmer who drove to town in his licensed vehicle everyday to visit his wife in a nursing home. His license ran out and when he tried to renew it they wouldn't let him drive anymore because his eyes were failing. So every day he gets on the tractor and drives it to town to see his wife. I want to have that kind of tenacity when I'm old. I guess Mark already does.


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## slickbrightspear (Jan 9, 2009)

I have moved several hives this way completly circle the hive with two ratchet straps insert the 2 (2x4) ratchet down tight make sure the boxes are aligned correctly when tightening. lift and carry off I have never had any problems doing this. it allows you to have two people to lift the weight not one, and I had those things available the day I needed to move those hives I did not have a ready made hive lift available and did not feel like hurting my back that day yes in a pinch I have just put the two straps on a hive to keep it together and lifted it from the bottom board but it's easier with two people.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

Acebird said:


> ... Of course you will have to look more like Samson than Santa clause.


What do you mean? Both of them had a beard and long hair??? :scratch:


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

adamant said:


> whats a Katz mover ?


A two person carrying aid. Here's a link to one source:
http://shop.honeybeeware.com/Katz-Super-Hive-Carrier-187K.htm


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## valleyman (Nov 24, 2009)

Thanks Rader, 
I'm going to attach another link from Dadant or Kelleys.

And as usual I can't get the picture to come thru. However got to www.kelleybees.com click on products, and type in product code 187k. It's $76.00 there.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Just saying ...
If you can handle the weight of the hive by yourself you can use this device (or make your own levers) and attach one side to a standard hand cart. Then you could wheel the hive to another location by yourself. In order to unlatch the hive from the lever action the hive would have to be put on a stand of the same height.

If you were to make your own the person side of the levers could be twice as long and then it would be like two people carrying the hive. Guess what I would do?


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## valleyman (Nov 24, 2009)

Acebird said:


> Just saying ...
> If you can handle the weight of the hive by yourself you can use this device (or make your own levers) and attach one side to a standard hand cart. Then you could wheel the hive to another location by yourself. In order to unlatch the hive from the lever action the hive would have to be put on a stand of the same height.
> 
> If you were to make your own the person side of the levers could be twice as long and then it would be like two people carrying the hive.
> ...


Screw it up, and kill more bees?


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## tommyt (Aug 7, 2010)

Are you saying use this in your post


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## valleyman (Nov 24, 2009)

That's it tommyt!! Thanks, for some reason I cant get things to post right from Kelleys site.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Yes but instead of using two people you attach one side to a hand cart.

http://www.handtrucks.com/?source=googleaw&kwid=hand cart&tid=exact&gclid=CIS44cejua4CFYeK4Aod7FWyQg

Cut off the plate on the bottom so it doesn't get in the way when you move it close to the hive.

The lever action will grip the hive and the wheels allow you to tote it around. If you strap the hive you can pick from a higher point on the hive. If you are crafting your own make the attachment a slip pin tube so you can set the height on the hand truck and lock it for your individual comfort.

I should mention that your hive bodies have to be all the same dimension or you will have to make the cross bar adjustable. I suppose you could use spacers but you need to have the pinch point the same height on each side of the hive in order to pick the hive up level.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

beeup said:


> I'm looking to put together a hive moving tool instead of buying one. I'm thinking about a couple of 2X4's and some ratchet clamps, but I don't really have a working design yet. Anybody using a homemade hive mover out there? I'd like it to be able to handle 2 deeps.


Beeup,

I think you're original idea is the best since you are not interested in laying out money needlessly. 

Loop the ratchet straps around the 2x3's or 4's with your helper and that's that. 

The Rube Goldberg suggestions are entertaining...


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## Spark (Feb 24, 2011)

Heres one you could build, I beleive I saw this posted here on another thread

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=318rE043rb8


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

tommyt said:


> Are you saying use this in your post
> View attachment 1342


Such as illustrated in ABJ this month in The Classroom on page 215?


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Spark said:


> Heres one you could build, I beleive I saw this posted here on another thread


Well duh, you would of thunk he would have demonstrated it in actual use on a hive. Leads people to believe there is a flaw.


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## Spark (Feb 24, 2011)

All you need to do and check his other videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHhpWHRvKsI&feature=channel


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Thanks. To make it quicker you could make the arms longer so you could latch or bungee cord across the front of the hive to keep the arms engaged. The pipe clamp is cumbersome and has a negative mechanical advantage being so close to the pivots. What I don't like about this contraption for actually moving the hive a distance is the need to keep the weight balanced on the wheels. In the case of what I was suggesting is that you would have the weight between you and the wheels like a wheel barrow. But I am sure he had fun making it and as he demonstrated it he used it more for lifting the hive than moving the hive. That might be his only intention.


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## toomanyhandles (Jun 24, 2009)

Acebird said:


> Thanks. To make it quicker you could make the arms longer so you could latch or bungee cord across the front of the hive to keep the arms engaged. The pipe clamp is cumbersome and has a negative mechanical advantage being so close to the pivots. What I don't like about this contraption for actually moving the hive a distance is the need to keep the weight balanced on the wheels. In the case of what I was suggesting is that you would have the weight between you and the wheels like a wheel barrow. But I am sure he had fun making it and as he demonstrated it he used it more for lifting the hive than moving the hive. That might be his only intention.


I dunno, Ace, without a video, people might think there is a flaw with your thought plan.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

That possibility exist. People who like to tinker on their own may try the idea without having the video proof.


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## Beeboy01 (May 20, 2008)

Not a bad design, I use 1x2's above the hand holds for a handle on all my deeps which would really help with gripping the hive body and supporting the weight. Using wider tires and a longer axle would help with the stability if the hand cart was used to move a hive around. I wonder if it would be possible to add an idler wheel that swings out simular to the setup used on the big medical oxygen tanks. It looks like the weight can be cranked down so it won't be too top heavy. Not bad


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## Steve10 (Nov 19, 2008)

Hello All,

The hive lifter I made was out of necessity. A little thought and an afternoon in the shop resulted in a tool I find useful. I had posted the description and videos originally hoping someone might be able to improve on the design. I'm no engineer. It's not perfect but it works for me and my operation. The wider tires and the idler wheel are a good suggestion, and the dual wheels as seen on an earlier post. I used it all season to move hives to the different yards. When I use it to move hives, I unbolt the foot supports and that lets me more easily take hives off the pallets some of them set on. Depending on the terrain, the distance to the truck, and how heavy the boxes are, I can easily lower the weight for better stability. It was really useful during queen rearing season when I needed to get honey supers off to steal frames of brood. Although the pipe clamp can be improved on, it was built with what I had. Due to it's positioning near the pivot, it takes very few turn of the screw to clamp the boxes, and it will crush a box if you get a little over zealous (ask me how I know.) I purposely avoided any clamping mechanism on the front to remain out of the bees flight path. I have a number of small yards with 10-20 hives per yard. I have a skid steer with forks, but for my small operation, I can leave it at home and just work the yards with my hive lift. It's light enough to throw on the bed of the truck. Can't beat the gas mileage on it either, runs on peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and lemonade .

Steve


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## Beeboy01 (May 20, 2008)

I hope the lemonade is sweetened with fresh honey. It is a great design, don't think I could of come up with it. I'm at six hives and use a trash picked flatbed cart and a small handtruck to move all my equipment so I'm a bit envious but it is in a good way.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

If you don't want to go in front of the hive with a latch you can lengthen the arms the other way past the pivots and make a tie rod (turn buckle) arrangement. This will put the clamping device on the operator side of the hand truck not in between the hive and the truck. Just a pipe with a right and left rod end will work for the turnbuckle. Tack weld the nuts to the end of a pipe. Bolt the rod ends into your clamp arms.


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## beyondthesidewalks (Dec 1, 2007)

Here's some food for thought:

http://frenchbeefarm.com/galeriebillet.htm


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## arnoldhicks (Mar 13, 2011)

A dolly works great with 8 or 10 inch tires. Pull up ramp on truck after hive is ratchet clamped.Works great for one person and honey supers full


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## Steve10 (Nov 19, 2008)

I apologize to the original poster if the discussion is going a bit of track, but this is a simple design and this discussion may make it a better "working" design for your needs.

Ace,

Your idea won't work. Look more closely. 1) The framework of the hand truck prevents extending the arms aft. 2) The tires would prevent the arms from lowering to the floor (as it is now I can pick up a stack of mediums from the storage room floor.) 3) Your simple turnbuckle design will bind as the extensions go through their arc on opening and closing, although typical threaded rod ends could fix that.

An unexpected benefit of the pipe clamp is the self closing feature. There are vertical angle iron sections welded on the arms near the pipe clamp. With the arms open, pressing the lift against a hive body actually closes the arms as the angle iron tries to square itself up with the hive body. With the slide on the pipe clamp, it locks pretty snug so 1 turn of the pipe clamp screw tightens the arms for sufficient grip.

Maybe an over-center cam lever in place of the pipe clamp would be better?


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Steve10 said:


> Ace,
> 
> Your idea won't work. Look more closely.


Are you kidding me? Except for item #2 which can easily be overcome, 100 bucks says you are wrong. 
150 bucks and I will construct it to your hive dimensions because I have no need to construct it to my hive dimensions. If you ratchet strap or staple the boxes together you can pick the hive from any point.

In the first place I would not build this lift like the one in the video. I would use a ratchet strap or a substantial sling and simply hoist the hive with the hook on the winch. Construct a boom off the top of the cart with a pulley at the end (similar to the Northern Tool hoist). The two swinging arms towards the bottom would only be used to stabilize the hive so it doesn't spin around. The arms could actually be made with a fixed spacing for a given sized hive. They don't really need to pivot. Once you tip the truck back to move the hive it is going to lay against the trunk and not turn anyway. The legs at the bottom should be longer and stiffer to stabilize the truck for pure lifting function. A couple of pavers could be put in place around the hive so these legs don't sink into the soil when lifting to insure the whole hive doesn't fall over.

But if you would like me to show you how to do it the other way, show me your money.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

beeup said:


> I'm looking to put together a hive moving tool instead of buying one. I'm thinking about a couple of 2X4's and some ratchet clamps, but I don't really have a working design yet.



Beeup,

It appears that there isn't anything simpler than what you suggested.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

The way I see it the operative word in the title, the word which sets the standards, is the word "simple". I believe the two person tubular steel hive lifter is about as simple as one can produce, other than just doing it by hand.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

The OP did not stipulate if he needed something to work alone and what his physical abilities are. Other people read topics that interest them to see if they can pick up ideas that will help them. Their goals could be different that the OP's but still related.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

The OP's original idea strongly suggests that he intended to have a second person. "Simple " suggests non-complicated...


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird said:


> The OP did not stipulate if he needed something to work alone and what his physical abilities are. Other people read topics that interest them to see if they can pick up ideas that will help them. Their goals could be different that the OP's but still related.



The OP stipulated simple and you are arguing w/ Steve10 about something you and he may find simple, but as for me, ain't. I bet you and the Mrs. could lift a two story hive w/ the Two Person Hive Lifter. (i used the word "bet", but i don't mean to imply actually laying down any money)


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Not at all Mark. My bet is a reasonable amount of money for said device mentioned that Steve could use if he chose to because I don't have a use for it. 

I can assure you the Mrs. could do it by herself if you teed her off and said she couldn't. The issue is not lifting. The issue is getting it on a truck bed without breaking the hive apart. Any device you use will slow the process down so I wouldn't even expect you to use two sticks and a ratchet strap. A specialized hand cart with a crank hoist is not what most people would consider a complicated machine. Think of it as a sawed off boat trailer tipped up 90 degrees. It has all the essential parts.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Perhaps my point has been missed. Simple to me means nonmechanical. Or as nonmechanical as is possible. I believe you and others are trying to answer a question not posed by the Author of this Thread. Something folks often come down on me w/ both feet and insulting comments. That's all.


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## Steve10 (Nov 19, 2008)

Ace,
I'm bringing the lift to the next Mid-York Beginner Beekeeping Course. I have a bunch of woodenware to bring to the class and it will make for fewer trips in from the parking lot. Come check it out then and watch it work. Then we'll discuss the specifics of any wagering. 
Steve


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

I have these.

http://www.cedarglenbees.com/proddetail.asp?prod=cat#935C
http://www.mannlakeltd.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=page106#MH-105 

Getting this
http://www.nmc-wollard.com/specsheets/1kforklift.pdf


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Steve10 said:


> Then we'll discuss the specifics of any wagering. Steve


All proceeds going to the Mid-York Beekeepers Benevolence Fund, right?


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## Spark (Feb 24, 2011)

My initial post showing Steve's hive lifter wasn't to have him have to defend himself. It looked like a fairly SIMPLE design to put together. What is simple to some may not be for others. The OP never described what his or anyone elses limitations were for being simple. I think a broad overview of simple designs for everyone to choose from is the best way to answer the OP's question and I think Steve has done that.

Engineers like to take simple designs as a whole and re-engineer them to make them as complicated as possible. I build things all day long I know.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

EastSideBuzz said:


> I have these.
> http://www.mannlakeltd.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=page106#MH-105


480 bucks!


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