# Size of hive for pollination



## IndianaHoney (Jun 5, 2006)

Another thread brought up a question that I've been meaning to ask. What size hive do you guys usually use for pollination? Do you usually send single deeps, two deeps, etc?


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## pahvantpiper (Apr 25, 2006)

*All of the above*

Singles, story and a halfs, double deeps - all work. Some growers like to see double deeps but if you're getting paid per frame of bees 8 frames in a single is the same as 8 frames in a double. In fact, some say a single will pollinate better than a double, the frame count being the same.


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## alpha6 (May 12, 2008)

We run all doubles. Mainly because of food stores. We send um heavy plus it gives the bees more room to expand before swarming in the spring. I wouldn't chance a single unless you can tend them in Calf or are from there.


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## IndianaHoney (Jun 5, 2006)

Alpha,

I'm not sending any to Cali. I'm mostly talking about local pollination, within 200 miles.


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## Keith Jarrett (Dec 10, 2006)

pahvantpiper said:


> In fact, some say a single will pollinate better than a double, the frame count being the same.


A single will jam out with pollen on most years.


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## Dan Williamson (Apr 6, 2004)

IndianaHoney said:


> Alpha,
> 
> I'm not sending any to Cali. I'm mostly talking about local pollination, within 200 miles.


I usually use 2 deeps or the equivalent for blueberry pollination here in Indiana. I start feeding 1:1 and pollen patties Mar 1st and move them into blueberries around May1st. I usually make up nucs about mid April from these colonies or they will swarm while pollinating. Many of my colonies will have both deeps full of bees by May1st due to the two month lead time I give them with the stimulant. It is critical that you keep them supplied with feed and pollen patties at least until there are natural sources available. 

Making up nucs from these colonies reduces the swarming and gives them foundation to work in the brood nest. 

2 years ago I made approx 1 1/2 supers of honey per colony on blueberries. I got half that this past season due to cooler windy conditions. Strong hives will impress the growers. 

I started out trying just filling in shortages when other beeks didn't have enough but when the growers saw my bees I ended up getting two different accounts when they realized that they had been getting the equivalent of packages in double deep boxes for the past number of years.

Make the extra effort and it WILL pay off!

I don't think it matters if they are doubles or story and a half.... Its the number of bees present and the pollinating work-force that makes the difference. If I have 1 1/2 story colonies I always have to have another super on top or they will plug out the bottom box and swarm before I get them home. I almost always have to make a second round of splits after they come out of blueberries.

Good luck.


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## IndianaHoney (Jun 5, 2006)

Thank you Dan. That was great advice, and clears up lots of questions. Right now I have one contract for pumpkins, and plan to limit myself to that this year. At the moment, I'm trying to learn all I can about pollination. I don't want to dive into it without knowing what I'm doing, and what to expect. When I'm ready, I plan to get a couple trailers, and hand truck, and start small. My biggest problem has been finding a commercial, or even a sideline beekeeper who pollinates, and is close enough to me. If I could find one, I'd love to ride along and help a few times to learn all I can. Shenifield, and Howard are both too far away, and the guy that was near me in Ohio has retired and sold off all his equipment. 

Anyway, thanks to all for the answers. And please keep it comming. Us new guys can use all the advice you guys can give.


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## greenbeekeeping (Feb 13, 2003)

my pollination prices on vine crops are going to go up next year. This year the pumpkins seemed even hard on them.


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## J'smob (Feb 21, 2008)

Dan Williamson said:


> Many of my colonies will have both deeps full of bees by May1st due to the two month lead time I give them with the stimulant.


Does this apply also to hives that you want to use for almonds? Because this seems to be going against what the bees are wanting to do. You would have to start feeding around the end of November, and at that time they are wanting to shut down for winter. Or is there a different method used?

Thanks!


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

J'smob said:


> Does this apply also to hives that you want to use for almonds? Because this seems to be going against what the bees are wanting to do. You would have to start feeding around the end of November, and at that time they are wanting to shut down for winter. Or is there a different method used?
> 
> Thanks!



Solstice


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## Dan Williamson (Apr 6, 2004)

J'smob said:


> Does this apply also to hives that you want to use for almonds? Because this seems to be going against what the bees are wanting to do. You would have to start feeding around the end of November, and at that time they are wanting to shut down for winter. Or is there a different method used?
> 
> Thanks!


I don't have experience with almonds. That's a whole different thing altogether. I was relating my Indiana pollination experience to another Indiana beekeeper. Others will be able to better answer almond pollination questions.


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