# handhold video table saw



## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

He mentions he is using an adjustable dado blade. I use a regular carbide blade and it works just fine, though it takes a smidge longer to finish the handhold.


----------



## bluegrass (Aug 30, 2006)

This is one of the safer rigged up methods of cutting them I have seen. But I really don't understand why people don't just buy the tool for the job? If you have a table saw you can get a molding head for it that will cut handholds... You can also buy them for a Radial arm saw which is the version I have.


----------



## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

bluegrass said:


> But I really don't understand why people don't just buy the tool for the job? If you have a table saw you can get a molding head for it that will cut handholds.


Is it a square cutting molding head that you set at an angle? Can you post a picture?

If I already have a dado blade, what advantage is there in buying a molding head?


----------



## laketrout (Mar 5, 2013)

I ended up going with Cleo Hogans circular saw method and it turned out real good , took quite a while to adjust everything to center it to my saw but it works with any length board and it free's up the other saws , very happy with it , here's the plans .

http://www.beesource.com/files/handhold.pdf


----------



## bluegrass (Aug 30, 2006)

ralittlefield said:


> Is it a square cutting molding head that you set at an angle? Can you post a picture?
> 
> If I already have a dado blade, what advantage is there in buying a moulding head?


With the moulding head you don't set anything at an angle. It cuts the handhold just by placing the board on the table saw. They are most often used to make moldings, but you can get custom made bits to cut handholds. My head came with a 1 inch cove moulding knife which works fine but you can special order wider knives if you want. 

Odfrank has some picture on here if you search his posts.


----------



## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

bluegrass said:


> With the moulding head you don't set anything at an angle. It cuts the handhold just by placing the board on the table saw. They are most often used to make moldings, but you can get custom made bits to cut handholds. My head came with a 1 inch cove moulding knife which works fine but you can special order wider knives if you want.
> 
> Odfrank has some picture on here if you search his posts.


Is this what you are referring to?: http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...x-Handle-Cleats-see-pics&highlight=hand+holds

It seems that odfrank uses cleats.

I have a molding head for my table saw, but have never seen blades for it that will make a cut more than about an inch wide. I am having a difficult time picturing a molding blade that would work on a table saw as you describe. I do not believe the opening in the table would be wide enough.

How does it work on a radial arm saw? Do you crank the saw up and down for each cut?

Do the hand holds that you cut with a cove shape work as well as square cut holes a dado blade would make?


----------



## Lazy W (Apr 14, 2012)

The Molding head will work. You will have to set up your jig to allow you to do 2 passes. That is how I have done them. I cut the hole 1 & 1/2" wide with a 1" inch blade.


----------



## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

Lazy W said:


> The Molding head will work. You will have to set up your jig to allow you to do 2 passes. That is how I have done them. I cut the hole 1 & 1/2" wide with a 1" inch blade.


What shape blade do you use? Square? Cove? What is the advantge of molding head over a dado blade?


----------



## bluegrass (Aug 30, 2006)

Post #8. http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...and-holds-on-bee-boxes&highlight=molding+head

You can order a knife to make the hand hold any shape/width you want it. 1 inch is plenty wide IMO if you don't want to special order the knife.

On the radial arm saw you spin the arm 90 deg and rotate the head 90 degree so that the bottom of the saw is now against the fence. Same principle as the table saw only you operate it on a vertical plane much like a spindle moulder.


----------



## Lazy W (Apr 14, 2012)

ralittlefield said:


> What shape blade do you use? Square? Cove? What is the advantge of molding head over a dado blade?



I use the cove blade. The advantage for me is I can cut handles faster using this setup and I'm not pushing sideways on my saw. Don't seam to be as much stress on the saw.


----------



## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

The instructions to make the jig to make the hand hold with a Skil saw is in the beesource library and there is a video on u-tube to show you how to make it.

You can make the jig in 30 minutes, it is totally safe, and makes a good looking hand hold. No special equipment needed. Just a skil saw and 2 "C" clamps or 2 wood clamps.

For the video go to u-tube and search Cleo Hogan, or, making hand holds on bee boxes using a circular saw safely.

If you have questions, contact me, [email protected] and I am happy to assist you.

cchoganjr


----------



## bluegrass (Aug 30, 2006)

I guess that begs the question of where we draw the line on "specialized equipment"? A hammer is specialized equipment, we could effectively pound nails with a rock, but we choose to make the investment in a hammer. 

It would be pretty tough to build boxes with just a skill saw. A table saw makes the job much easier.

My list of required equipment to make building my own boxes cost effective includes:
Table saw
Chop saw
Dado blades
Screw gun
square

Without those basic things I would just spend the 12.00 each for boxes. If I want professional looking hand holds I am also going to want professional looking box joints. If I am going to go that far then the small investment for a molding head isn't even going to be an issue. If I am square joining boxes I am not really going to care if a have a cleat for a handle rather than a milled out grip. 

For me there just isn't any logic in doing it with a jig and skill saw and messing with clamps etc, when I can run them off on a molder in less than a minute per box.


----------



## Rusty Hills Farm (Mar 24, 2010)

True enough, but many of us ease into this hobby because we are just not sure how much we are gonna like it or even if we can do it with any success. We just aren't willing to invest the farm until we're sure we're gonna keep on keeping bees. When all we're making is 4-6 boxes and a couple of lids, that list is kinda overkill. Once we are deep in, it's a different story--sometimes. Personally I am just not a tool freak and if I can't do a thing with a couple of basic tools, I pass...in a hurry. So far I can make a pretty decent box with my skil saw, router, and drill. I know these tools. I handle them safely. And I am just not willing to make the jump into the fancy stuff. I tip my hat to you guys with your workshops full of tools. I just never was of that bent. Knowing me, I'd probably slice all my fingers off the first time I tried using a table saw so I'll just stick to the simple stuff. Like Mr. Hogan's jig. (works great, btw.)


----------



## bluegrass (Aug 30, 2006)

I think the most difficult part of building boxes with just a skill saw is going to be ripping the lumber to size. Even with a fence rigged up it will be difficult to do without having some inconsistency. 

For just 4-6 boxes why not just buy them? The difference in cost around here anyway is really small. A deep box costs me about 9.00 to build just in material. 

I wish I had a workshop full of tools  But to have the workshop I dream about I would have to invest an additional 40-50 K or so. I consider my shop pretty basic. Pretty much only the essentials any weekend warrior would need as a home owner. With a few more specialized tools thrown in, like a biscuit joiner and a krag jig.


----------



## Rusty Hills Farm (Mar 24, 2010)

> biscuit joiner and a krag jig


To my shame, I don't even know what those are. And yes, boxes are inexpensive. It's the shipping that really adds up, which is why I build everything. Except frames, that is. I tried frames once. Big mess. So I do have to cough up the shipping for them.

I hived my first package in 1991 (got the plans from Organic Gardening's _Build It Better Yourself_) and today I am STILL just using my basic tools. I use a fence for most everything (altho I admit I never remember to call it that--it's just my ripping gizmo!). I'm building boxes right now. A 1 x 12 x 12 costs me $11 and I can get 2 deeps out of it.

I admit I admire you guys who can actually use all those tools. (I can't even remember what the names mean!!!) But the workmanship in some of the hives I see on here makes me drool. My hat is off to you!

:thumbsup:


Rusty


----------



## brettj777 (Feb 27, 2013)

Ran across this thread because I am making my own boxes, my retired father was willing to lend his shop space to me. In the end he's put in more work making the jigs and such than I think I did cutting all the finger joints!

Planning to cut the handholds on the tablesaw with a 15 degree sled this weekend. Made about 6 deeps and 9 mediums. Dad's house is an hour away. I think I'm lucky if I broke even versus buying unassembled boxes. BUT my finger joints are a heck of a lot more consistent than the ones I've ordered in the past! Just sayin....


----------



## Brad Bee (Apr 15, 2013)

I made a jig like the guys in the video. I don't use a dado head for cutting the box handles but I do use 3 carbide tipped blades stacked side by side. It cuts much faster and smoother than a single blade.


----------



## Ted n Ms (Apr 25, 2008)

I use this jig in the video with a wobble dado cutter. This way it don't bind like a fixed blade.


----------



## CajunBee (May 15, 2013)

I tend to keep simple as well. I use a 1/2" dado blade on a bench top table saw, set to 5 angle. A jig holds the boards in proper position to the blade. Just lay the board down, lift, move jig to make second cut, lay board down again. 
Makes a 1"x 4" groove with 5 degree slope towards bottom for water drainage. No special tools or procedures.


----------

