# Types of hive stands - ideas



## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

I will likely receive my 4 hives the first or second week in April so I still have some time to get ready. One thing is certain; I will need something to place my hives on. Please share some pictures, drawing or designs of your hive stands. Have the equipment to work with wood but not metal and do not want to spend a lot of money. I can get wood pallets free but they are a bit heavy and most are about 4 feet square so not real easy to work around. Have seen a few stands made using “standard” concrete blocks with 4” X 4” between them. These appear to be easy to move, work around and could handle the weight of 2 or 3 hives. If these are used what length should the 4x4’s be to hold 3 hives and would I need more blocks in the middle for support?
Thanks.


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## ritan1 (Nov 10, 2015)

I am not a builder or woodworker, and don't want to be, so I sought a ready-made solution. This year, I hit upon a great idea for hive stands and it is working very well. I got two 24"x48" freezer dunnage racks, the kind that look like Metro chrome shelving, single tier. The legs are 14", but adjustable - I have mine low enough to work, but high enough to deter my local skunks. Each one holds 600 pounds. They're made of freezer wire so they shed water and don't rust, They're green and blend in. I have a paver block with a sand base under each leg, but can remove the legs and put the shelf on cinder blocks. Because the shelf is wire, it allows good ventilation into the hive, and I can strap the hive down when needed. And they come in lots of widths and lengths - 24"x48" easily holds two hives with good space around them. And only $35 bucks each and they should last forever.


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## johnbeejohn (Jun 30, 2013)

i use any random 2x8,10,12 (that i get free or CHEAP)
i take two 8'ers cut 2 13'' pieces screw them together u have your hive stand 
have also seen people set them on landscaping timbers an old deep box ect....
its not what you set them on its whats inside that counts


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

regular cement blocks work well but are too simple for most beekeepers.


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## Fusion_power (Jan 14, 2005)

I make a hive stand by sinking 4 treated posts in the ground at least 18 inches deep. Then use treated 2X4's to build a frame 4 feet by 4 feet around the posts. I level the treated 2X4's as I screw them to the treated posts. Once they are attached and solid all the way around, I use a chain saw to cut the treated posts off just at the top of the 2X4's. I then screw two more pieces of 2X4 across the middle of the stand with spacing so that 4 hives can be set on it. The treated post remnants are usually enough to do another stand. This takes at least 2 treated posts and about 24 feet of treated 2X4. It is a permanent setup but will easily last 25 or more years.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

I don't like my hives high off the ground. 

Cut a P.T. 2x4x10' into...2-4' pieces and 2-1' pieces. Nail the 1' pieces between the 4' pieces, 1' from the ends. Holds 2 hives.


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

beeware10 said:


> regular cement blocks work well but are too simple for most beekeepers.


So true for so many things. :applause: Thanks for reminding me of the KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid, principle. Will keep that in mind and try to just let the bees be bees.


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## warrior (Nov 21, 2005)

Michael Palmer said:


> I don't like my hives high off the ground.
> 
> Cut a P.T. 2x4x10' into...2-4' pieces and 2-1' pieces. Nail the 1' pieces between the 4' pieces, 1' from the ends. Holds 2 hives.


If I had to build from scratch this would be my route except I'd use 2x6 or 8. My ground gets soft so I want them a few inches higher.
Make your cuts good and square, use liquid nails and 3" coated deck screws and pull everything tight and it should last for years.

I'm a scrounge and had 6x6, 4x6, 4x4, and heavy guage commercial roofing metal sheets on hand when I built my stand. I'll post pics on another post.


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## warrior (Nov 21, 2005)

This is it, 40" wide 22' long with each leg cut to fit the slope so it's sits level front to back side to side. All from scrounged materials.


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## warrior (Nov 21, 2005)

Beekeepers are nothing if not resourcful. We have a member of one of our local clubs that built his out of 4" PVC. He cut a ten foot stick into three pieces stood each piece vertical using a block of wood and 3lb sledge he drove them into the ground to his desired height. Then he glued a closet flange (toilet flange) on top and screwed 3/4 ply to the flange. Each hive has its own PVC stand.
It's an amazing sight especially since the hives are in his front yard in full view of all. These well cared for hives each on their own white plinth. Looks for all the world like some sort of Greek temple.


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## Sunday Farmer (Nov 13, 2013)

warrior said:


> Make your cuts good and square, use liquid nails and 3" coated deck screws and pull everything tight and it should last for years.


I built mine like Michael's. They work great. I'm getting lazy with my nail gun. the galvy 3 inch ring shanks (GripRites) aren't expensive, and won't work out. Super quick.


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## Agis Apiaries (Jul 22, 2014)

We use cinder blocks for the outyards, and home built wooden boxes for those in our home yard. Those also sit on black concrete construction blocks I had laying around. We don't use the multi-hive "bench" type stands as we like to be able to stand on either side of our hives for convenience.


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## Fishmaster50 (Apr 30, 2015)

got a buddy that welds. He made this out of alum. About 10 inches in the ground. Going to have make a couple more for me. Plus the price is FREE! Can't beat that.
Sorry about upside down can't figure out how to turn.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

From all the pictures it almost looks like weed control is as important as stands.
gww


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## warrior (Nov 21, 2005)

If using cinder blocks turn them on their sides so the holes are open. Ants, especially fire ants, will fill the holes if they aren't open.


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## Fusion_power (Jan 14, 2005)

Fishmaster must be in Australia. His bees are upside down hanging on for dear life.


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## ericweller (Jan 10, 2013)

My lot slopes quite a bit and I didn't want to spend a bunch of time leveling spots for individual hives so I went with the bench. These are supported by 3 - 4x4's but I could probably get by with just 2 posts. Each bench can hold 4 hives.


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## dynemd (Aug 27, 2013)

Fishmaster50 said:


> Sorry about upside down can't figure out how to turn.


Fishmaster50 those are nice awnings you've got also for the rain I suppose.


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## zhiv9 (Aug 3, 2012)

Michael Palmer said:


> I don't like my hives high off the ground.
> 
> Cut a P.T. 2x4x10' into...2-4' pieces and 2-1' pieces. Nail the 1' pieces between the 4' pieces, 1' from the ends. Holds 2 hives.


This is what I use. Dimensions are a little different, but similar. I want to be able to tip give back to work on it instead of always lifting.


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## ralittlefield (Apr 25, 2011)

beeware10 said:


> regular cement blocks work well but are too simple for most beekeepers.


Yup.


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## photobiker (Mar 23, 2015)

Mine are on cinder blocks, so simple works for me, but you have an ant problem having a hive sitting on four legs is a lot easier to defend.


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## Davers (Aug 6, 2014)

Where can you buy them ritan1?


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## rskane (Jun 28, 2015)

I use oak 2" square tree stakes for my verticals, and I drive them into the ground 6" or so. I bring a big hammer in the truck to re-level them once or twice a year.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Two landscape timbers laid on the ground about 18" apart is about as simple as it gets.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

Sacrificial treated pallet in the mud, painted 4-hive screened bottom board pallet on top of it. Hives in the "W" clips. A straw bale wind break around 2 of these with a coroplast political sign roof. Located 3/4 of the way up the lee side of the point. Dry, happy bees and not too much work, once its set up. Leave forklift access.


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## ritan1 (Nov 10, 2015)

Davers said:


> Where can you buy them ritan1?


You can go to a shelving or restaurant supply company, but I often find them on eBay for much less. Don't put in "dunnage" or you'll get the super fancy kind. Search for "green epoxy coated wire shelf"


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Here are mine. The first two pictures in the section are nucs I just set out on stands on a slope. I put boards under the stand to get it level. The next one is two stands when I was making them, laying on top of each other. The last picture in the group is hives on the stand.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beesmisc.htm#hivestand


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## grozzie2 (Jun 3, 2011)

Different climates call for different strategies. In our part of the world, over the winter, we almost always have some form of standing water laying around, the rain just comes down faster than it can drain. I made stands by pounding some fenceposts down to hit hardpan, then cut them off and put a 4x4 over the top. Not fancy, fairly low, and keeps them out of the mud over the winter, which is the real reason for using a stand here. The first batch were 16' 4x4 with 8' spacing between the posts. For the second batch of stands I could only get 12 foot 4x4 that day, so, those are a little shorter, but do the job just fine.


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

grozzie2, 
We also have plenty of rain during the winter and spring with dry spells the end of July to mid-October. With our sandy soil not much of problem caused by standing water. After viewing many of the hives stands others have shown I think I will try a combination of your's and others and use concrete blocks (already have several on hand) with 10 foot 4x4’s on top of them. Using 8 frame hives could I place 4 hives on 10 feet timbers or should I have more spacing between hives? i.e. use longer 4x4’s with blocks on each end and also in the middle or set up two 10 foot hive stands?


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## NinjaBees (Jan 26, 2016)

We have downpours so durable ground attachment is important, this is set up for a couple of backyard hives...


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

NinjaBees said:


> We have downpours so durable ground attachment is important, this is set up for a couple of backyard hives...
> 
> View attachment 22812


Looks like what I have in mind will just place mine on concrete blocks standing upright and leveled. Those 4x4 timbers appear to be about 10 foot long. How many hives should you place on the stand and also have room to work the bees?


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## grozzie2 (Jun 3, 2011)

Groundhwg said:


> Using 8 frame hives could I place 4 hives on 10 feet timbers


On my main stands I have 8 hives, 10 frame, on a 16 foot 4x4, so 4 8 framers on 10 feet should be no issue at all.


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## RichardsonTX (Jul 3, 2011)

2 pcs of 2x4x16" Pressure Treated Lumber


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## NinjaBees (Jan 26, 2016)

Those are actually pressure-treated corner-fenceposts, they are a bit stouter and longer than landscaping timbers, true 4x4 and 8' long. They are new this year so not sure how tight I can cram hives in, 2-3 easily, putting in 5, 8-frames would be wall-to-wall. And aggravate the neighbors. My plan is put 2 down for the season, let the neighbors get used to it.


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## ramdino (Jan 26, 2013)

Anyone know what the adjustable legs on this stand are from. I saw them on Brushy Mountain Nov 14th,2014 blog page.


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## BEES4U (Oct 10, 2007)

2/8/2016. 

A little Audio Visual presentation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8yA-Fyt6dg

Regards,
Ernie


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## BeeBop (Apr 23, 2015)

ramdino said:


> Anyone know what the adjustable legs on this stand are from. I saw them on Brushy Mountain Nov 14th,2014 blog page.




House leveling jacks?


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## Scpossum (May 4, 2014)

You guys have fancy stands! I just set one up this weekend with 10' 4x4's and two pallets apiece on top. Easy and quicky moved when I get ready to relocate. Probably could have used just pallets, but with the rain we are getting they might need the extra 4 inches.


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## AstroBee (Jan 3, 2003)

warrior said:


> Beekeepers are nothing if not resourcful. We have a member of one of our local clubs that built his out of 4" PVC. He cut a ten foot stick into three pieces stood each piece vertical using a block of wood and 3lb sledge he drove them into the ground to his desired height. Then he glued a closet flange (toilet flange) on top and screwed 3/4 ply to the flange. Each hive has its own PVC stand.
> It's an amazing sight especially since the hives are in his front yard in full view of all. These well cared for hives each on their own white plinth. Looks for all the world like some sort of Greek temple.


That sounds cool. I might give that a try at my house yard. Isn't that hard to do in that red Georgia clay


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## ramdino (Jan 26, 2013)

I was hoping it was something cheaper. Those jacks are expensive. I got ant problems bad and my hives are on a hill so I need something that I can make a grease cup and have some leveling adjustment.


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## jnqpblk (Apr 7, 2015)

Some hives on 2 8X8X16 cinder blocks with screened or solid bottom board hives. Use the weight of block to pile drive ground to get the slight hive tilt I want of entrance downhill.
Others on stands I built. 4, 8" 2X4's (legs) with 1X4's outside the legs skirt around top edge (1X's stapled with many 7/16" crown X 1 1/2" staples). To get the desired slope of hive entrance downhill, I very carefully step up on stand and stomp the appropriate corner(s) until I have the desired slope. To make, I fasten a 16" - 20" 1X to 2 2X4's flush at each end of 1X and also flush to one side of 1X - do this twice, these are the "U-shape sides. Stand upright with legs pointing down. Fasten 2 other 16 1/4" 1X4 boards on front and back of stand to complete it.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

I did like Mike (except 2x6) and tied it together with strong ties, then put it on blocks since not PT:
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n599/6minz/stand2.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n599/6minz/stand1.jpg
Glad I did not anchor it to the ground because it has been all over the county.


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## GarrickG (Nov 29, 2014)

2x6's and deck blocks/piers...


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## JConnolly (Feb 21, 2015)

Here is the thread for the ant proof hive stand I made last year. 
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?314949-My-version-of-the-ant-proof-hive-stand

The thread also has a link to other ant proof hive stands a little ways down so look for it.

The prototype stand performed so well that I plan on making a couple of more like it this year. I didn't see a single an in the hives after this stand. I realize others won't have access to the granite logs I used but a pipe stand will work just as well.


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## Agis Apiaries (Jul 22, 2014)

warrior said:


> If using cinder blocks turn them on their sides so the holes are open. Ants, especially fire ants, will fill the holes if they aren't open.


If you have fire ants! None around here, thankfully.


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

Agis Apiaries said:


> If you have fire ants! None around here, thankfully.


Warrior knows of what he speaks - lots of little black "sugar" ants and fire ants in SE Alabama. I got my hive stands made yesterday. Used two concrete block, turned sideways, and two 4"x4"x8' pressure treated timbers between the blocks to set my bees on. Have two set-ups like this for total of 4 hives. So the hives will be about 16 inches above the ground and plan to have two hives on set-up. Really looking froward to my bees getting here and watching them work. :applause:

Add on: I will be using 8 frame hives. With the 4"x4"x8' would I have any problem holding two hives per stand?


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