# How many Top Bars



## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Sounds like you had a great Christmas!



> So...how many of each do I need? Im sure the amount will change with the season but any help with what I should put in to start would be great.


You could use 1 3/8" bars for all of them. Or start with about 8 bars of the 1 1/4" add as needed. Then during the flow add the 1 1/2" behind the 1 1/4". When I add a brood bar I add it closer to the front about 2 bars deep. They seem to draw it out faster that way. 



> Also, should I restrict the bees to only part of the hives (they are 36") until they start to fill up the TB's?


Yes. Use a follower board. Or 2 if yours has side entrances. 



> Also, I want to make sure I understand the process correctly; When harvesting honey I pull the full frame and put in a new empty one and continue this until winter. Do I leave full honey frames for them to eat? Or is that only for the winter...? and in the winter, how many full honey frames do I leave for them?


The process is correct. But I just cut mine off right there and put the same bar back. It's up to you how much you want to take. The more you take. The more you will have to feed them to get them thru winter. I left one full bar of honey and feed some too. So far all is great.

Good Luck and Enjoy!!


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## justgojumpit (Apr 9, 2004)

I normally use about 30 top bars in my top bar hives. I like to keep my top bars all 1-3/8 inch. they are more universal that way. 

justgojumpit


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

How long is the hive? How wide are you going with the bars? I do half and half 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" The bees seem to prefer the 1 1/4" for brood and the 1 1/2" for honey. You could also do all 1 1/4" and make a bunch of 1/4" spacers. My 48" long hives take about 33 bars.


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## kaisfate (Oct 6, 2008)

> The more you take. The more you will have to feed them to get them thru winter. I left one full bar of honey and feed some too. So far all is great. Good Luck and Enjoy!!


So maybe if I left 2 full bars of honey I wouldnt have to feed. I would rather not if I can get away with it...my idea is to let the bees make their own way. I know I will have to feed occasionally but the less I can do the better.



> How long is the hive? How wide are you going with the bars? I do half and half 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" The bees seem to prefer the 1 1/4" for brood and the 1 1/2" for honey.


The hive is 36". I was using your guide and doing the 1 1/4" for the brood and the 1 1/2" for the honey. But I didnt know if I should put them in equally, or if I should have more brood TB's or vice versa.

TIA


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I make half and half with a couple of extras.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

kaisfate said:


> So maybe if I left 2 full bars of honey I wouldnt have to feed. I would rather not if I can get away with it...my idea is to let the bees make their own way. I know I will have to feed occasionally but the less I can do the better.
> 
> That might be enough. First year you will need to watch and monitor what they need closely. It's pretty easy too. You will see were they have the brood nest and the honey storage. On mine I see where they have this and when I inspect I always start at the honey storage and work my way to the brood nest. Come summer or fall or your dearth time you will be able to open up the back (honey storage) and see how much they have stored with a simple peak. On one of mine the back bar was solid capped honey. Then a month or so later it was bone dry. This was getting close to winter so I feed. Then I saw they stored it back up with feed. So I stopped feeding. Haven't feed since. This TBH I started this year a good month or 2 later than my first. My first I have not feed at all.
> 
> ...


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## kaisfate (Oct 6, 2008)

Derek said:


> When you install your bees you will need to feed.
> 
> How do you plan to feed when you do?
> 
> And if you haven't yet. You need to order your bees now.


I havent figured out how I want to feed yet...I know I have a couple of options. Since I just got my hives Im sort of figuring out the best way to go about it. 

As far as ordering bees, I am going to capture a swarm. Im part of a local beekeepers association and we get regular emails with swarms...I understand how difficult it will be and am comfortable with the fact that I probably will get stung and they may not make it. But I like th idea of "local" bees and really jumping in with both feet on this...


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## justgojumpit (Apr 9, 2004)

I have found with top bar hives that a baggie feeder in the rear of the hive is the easiest. You can also easily replace it without bothering the bees too much.

justgojumpit


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## beenovice (Jun 19, 2007)

justgojumpit said:


> I have found with top bar hives that a baggie feeder in the rear of the hive is the easiest. You can also easily replace it without bothering the bees too much.
> 
> justgojumpit


Exactly ! Baggie feeders work good. Also inverted jars work and are as quick to change as baggie feeders.


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## justgojumpit (Apr 9, 2004)

Yeah the jars work too, but then you have to raise them off the hive bottom. I suppose a few scrap blocks of wood would take care of that though. The added bonus here is that you don't have to keep throwing away plastic bags!

justgojumpit


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

justgojumpit said:


> Yeah the jars work too, but then you have to raise them off the hive bottom. I suppose a few scrap blocks of wood would take care of that though. The added bonus here is that you don't have to keep throwing away plastic bags!
> 
> justgojumpit


I use a boardman style feeder. With a slot cut into the rear follower board. Works really good.


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