# SHB Boom at Summer's End



## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

Refusing to treat when it becomes the only prudent option is the same as refusing to feed a fine stallion because he should be able to survive on graze. There are other factors that need to be taken into account in both cases.
The way I see it you have three options treat the hives and area and be done with it.
Don't treat and suffer the loses.
Get rid of the bees.


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## Tom Brueggen (Aug 10, 2011)

Tenbears said:


> Refusing to treat when it becomes the only prudent option is the same as refusing to feed a fine stallion because he should be able to survive on graze. There are other factors that need to be taken into account in both cases.
> The way I see it you have three options treat the hives and area and be done with it.
> Don't treat and suffer the loses.
> Get rid of the bees.


With all do respect, that's a quitters mindset, and it's NOT the only prudent option. There is clearly a learning point here. I have two separate areas in my back yard where I keep bees. On area is mostly shaded, the other mostly sun. The hives in the shady area also sit on the ground, vs the ones in the sun sit up on rails. The ones in the shade have more beetles. So right off there are two variables that could be the issue: on the ground and in the shade. 

So close to the ground, the beetles/larva can more simply walk in and out. Less sun means the soil doesn't get as hot and retains moisture longer, which I assume is a better pupating environment for the beetle larva.

I post this because I wanted to know if others had made similar observations that could lead to a more constructive conversation. 

Here's another example: I made up 8 mating nucs. 4 of them absconded/got slimed within mere days of placement. The four that survived faced due north and due south. The four that failed (two of each) faced east and west. Now this is probably a complete fluke, but I've heard plenty of people make arguments about bee activity with respect to the azimuth which the hive faces. Come to think of it, all of may other colonies face east and west. Only the nucs that survived are the ones that I faced north and south. 

Again, to Tenbears, I appreciate any and all input, and I'm not trying to sound aggressive towards your post, but the fact is, there are plenty of ways to successfully keep treatment free bees. I have over 20 colonies right now that I've acquired in just over a year of splits and cutouts (I'm rather proud to say I only ever purchased my first package of bees). I'm not so arrogant to say I know it all, as the bees/beetles teach me every day that I DON'T know it all. But I do know that you can keep bees treatment free. I've never put a drop of pesticide or medicine in my hive (not intentionally) and my bees are doing great. It's just that I've observed some have a much higher beetle population than others.

In the interest of hygienics, I have seen some hives chasing and biting at the beetles which is a good sign. But I've seen these hives also have just as many or more beetles than a hive that seems to ignore the beetles. The more I think about it, the more it looks like a hive placement issue. 

Now, back on topic, can anyone explain the "boom" in beetle populations at summers end?


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## Rusty Hills Farm (Mar 24, 2010)

Beetles can easily take down a hive in a week. The controls I use are IMP bottom boards with the oil tray underneath, the hanging traps on the frames, and the boric acid traps in spots that the bees cannot access. And I use my trusty hive tool to smush every one of those suckers I can find. Hives need to be in full sun. In Florida and again in Alabama I keep mine in full sun. We regularly get weeks of 100+ degrees and the hives manage fine. I know there are chemical treatments for beetles, tho I've never used them, and I'm sure you can find those too. The only thing you cannot do is do nothing or the beetles will get your hives. Once they have slimed frames, I have never had success salvaging those frames--the bees avoid them like the plague even once they've been cleaned. Oh, and all my hives face due East and are spaced about 2 feet apart on their stands. Beetles fly, so they fly right in even as my setup kills them, so it's always an ongoing battle from last frost to first. I keep hygienic bees, and I think that helps, too.

HTH

Rusty


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## NewJoe (Jul 1, 2012)

everyone in my area says more hive beetles this year than they ever seen before! I have seen at least two or three in every one of my hives...every time I have inspected since mid-summer.


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## Robbin (May 26, 2013)

Your hive is probably drawing down it's numbers preparing for winter, the SHB don't, so you end up with a smaller number of bees trying to control a growing number of beetles. 
Unlike mites, you don't have to use chemicals on beetles. Traps, SBB with oil trays below, etc. Hives in full sun, I'm in florida and I keep mine in full sun. It's pretty darn hot. 
I also use SBB and trays. Often remove the trays in the worst heat of the year. I rarely see a SHB anymore. I lost a hive early this year that did not have a SBB and tray.


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## Slow Modem (Oct 6, 2011)

If you lose a hive to SHB, you'll never forget it and you'll never want to go through that again. It's downright nasty.

Strong hive, sunlight, and trays and traps are what I'm using now.

Everyone at our beekeeper's association is having lots of SHB this year. I think it's because it was damper and cooler than normal.

Good luck with your hives.


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## Lburou (May 13, 2012)

*Just my way of handling shb.......*

I got a big dose of hive beetles in two NUCs I bought last Spring. The biggest boon to small hive beetles in my twelve hives is to add too much pollen patty at one time, if you do, you will find it full of shb larva. Too much space for the number of bees also makes it hard for the bees to corral the beetles and control their breeding. 

ANY crevice in the hive can become shb accommodation, so I fill every gap I can, usually with elmer's glue. Ribs of all plastic frames make nice shelter for them too. The groves in wooden frames make good places for them to hide. It helps to know where to look if you are going to carry out a death sentence.

Half my hives are in the sun and half in the shade 100 feet away -all are off the ground. I found a NUC the other day with a three inch circle full of slime and shb larva. Caught it early enough to take every frame out and manually kill the larva and beetles then cut the affected part of the comb and froze the frame. This NUC was in the sun, so its not as simple as keeping hives in the sun. I found shb larva in a NUC in the shade and killed them manually -wear your glasses, the larva start out very small, look for their movement.

I treat the ground under my hives to reduce shb success, but remember, the larva can crawl hundreds of feet and the adults are strong flyers. They can also reproduce on decaying vegetable matter (melons). I found THIS link very informative, I hope you do too.









Tom, this magnet from my garage toolbox makes an excellent shb killer. You can reach down to the bottom board with just one frame out of the way. Be patient, the bees will herd the beetles round and round. If you wait, you are likely to see the same beetle again and again as the bees harass them. I also think the meaner the bees, the fewer shb you will have. Cut the end off a small screw driver and you can reach to the bottom of a cell containing a shb to kill it.

Commercial guys can't take the time to manually intervene, but I can.
HTH


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

*Re: Just my way of handling shb.......*

I wonder if the beetles somehow detect stress or if they just take advantage of weak populations? Hives that are starving, being robbed, are queenless, or have a mite problem are also likely to fail with SHB. Once they have two of those issues they are often mobbed by beetles.

BTW, it is easy to knock every Beetle off of a frame by rapping it on something. I have been using a bus box with an inch of soapy water and hardware cloth over it to catch them in if there are very many.


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## Blackwater Bees (May 7, 2012)

*Re: Just my way of handling shb.......*

SHB are a pest of the melon industry in their native africa. They can reproduce in rotten cucumbers, watermelons, cantaloupes, etc. They will winter in the bee cluster, and even entice the bees to feed them by stimulating the bees mouth parts with their antennae. As the fall/winter approaches, their food/shelter sources are limited and they all move into hives. As your bees are preparing for winter, so are your bees pests. Everyone you kill now will be one less in the spring.


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## Genemiller (Jul 21, 2013)

*Re: Just my way of handling shb.......*

I'm lucky to have nasty bees because I surely would of lost my hives to the shb's. I installed an oil pan in the bottom and it gives them somewhere to fall when the bees roust them. Last inspection I had 0 in the hive that I saw plus zero in my top trap. Before I had 30+ every week in my traps plus more in jails until I opened the top and freed them. One word of caution my original pan was not full size and the beetles were laying eggs under it. I guess they were feeding on the pollen.

Gene


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## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

Tom Brueggen said:


> With all do respect, that's a quitters mindset, and it's NOT the only prudent option. There is clearly a learning point here. I have two separate areas in my back yard where I keep bees. On area is mostly shaded, the other mostly sun. The hives in the shady area also sit on the ground, vs the ones in the sun sit up on rails. The ones in the shade have more beetles. So right off there are two variables that could be the issue: on the ground and in the shade.
> 
> So close to the ground, the beetles/larva can more simply walk in and out. Less sun means the soil doesn't get as hot and retains moisture longer, which I assume is a better pupating environment for the beetle larva.
> 
> ...


It is the life cycle of the insect they build numbers throughout the summer. reaching a panicle in autumn. This is done so that when harsh winter kills reduce overwintering survival there will be ample survivors to continues propagation of the species. 

I never said that bees cannot be kept treatment free using sound management practices. A great many do so. following these practices works well in most instances. Utilizing hive location and air flow helps, as does beetle traps, crowding, Heterorhabditis Indica. and a host of other non chemical methods. 
However, when Infestation has reach the point that hives are being slimed out in rapid fashion then more drastic measures need to be taken. I do realize bees are not like dogs and the companion factor is not there. But I feel I as the care giver of my bees owe it to them to provide every opportunity for them to survive in a manner that is as comfortable as possible. If my child had Cancer I would not think very long before allowing the doctors to administer the terrible chemicals Known as Chemo therapy required to save their lives. (And trust me I know the agony of chemo)! I also realize that they are not always workable. However, I would not put a mustard plaster on his forehead and chant herri crishna simply because it may work. We are talking about extraordinary circumstances that require extraordinary measures. To be so focused on the culmination of an ideal that one would allow the needles suffering and loss of life to fulfill ones own concept of the purity of that ideal borders on inhumane. 
At Least that is how I see It.


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## Crsswift70 (Sep 9, 2013)

Mine are currently in full sun but the prior owner had them under trees. I immediately noticed beetles in both hives, but one had substantially fewer with about even populations. Those particular bees are extremely active foragers which i think probably means extremely active beetle herders. They don't seem to need help at all, while my other hive has traps just to help reduce the numbers. I will be splitting the super active hive next spring to try to keep this trait alive in my little bee yard, assuming they can get themselves queenright


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## Splorndle (Jul 15, 2011)

I have added Freeman bottom board traps and they have almost eliminated the beetle issue. I had two hives infested and slimed. I saved the frames by freezing them for a week each and putting them in healthy hives. Those bees cleaned em up and used em. Losing a hive to shb is disheartening and friggin gross.


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## BeeGora (Oct 22, 2013)

As soon as the weather turned chilly here the beetles just disappeared. I haven't seen one since mid-September. Good riddance.


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## Tom Brueggen (Aug 10, 2011)

I have seen a decline in mine since it started to cool off here, even though we have yet to have a night below 50F or so. Still it makes a difference. The bees seem to be more concerned with dumping them now, just as they are with the drones. Then again, the hive(s) that I had that were heavy with beetles also got moved off the ground and up onto rails. It could be a false positive that keeping them higher off the ground helps with the beetle control, but I feel it has made a difference.


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## jredburn (Feb 25, 2012)

I have lost around two dozen colonies this year to SHB. I get all my bees from cutouts or swarms and most of them had beetles show up within two days of moving. 
I have come to the conculision that the bees can keep the beetles under control during normal circumstances but when something happens to make them lose focus, then the beetles start lying eggs and in two days there are thousands of them.
i have tried every trap and treatment and still lost them. What I have found that works it to take the bottom board and add a wooden stip across the entrance that is the same thickness as the other three edges, then paint it black all over. After the paint dries, coat the whole thing with sticky board glue. Second best is to coat it with mixture of 2/3 bees wax and 1/3 mineral oil. Then cover the entire thing with 1/8" hardware cloth (#8 wire mesh). Keep it 3/8" above the glue. Set the brood nest on top and cut a 1" hole in the top of the box for an entrance. Then take the inner cover and the top cover off and replace them with a 1/4" plexiglass cover. Set the hive in the full sun. 
The beetles cannot stand sunlight and will do anything to get away from any light. The plexiglass lets in light and that drives the beetles down into the darkness at the bottom. They crawl through the mesh and get stuck in the glue. The mesh keeps the bees out of the glue. 
I put the same arrangement on my vacuum as well as my catch frame box. That way I clean the beetles out while I am doing the extraction.
The last 6 cutouts I did are all doing well and there are no beetles in the hives
Hope this helps
Regards
Joe


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## Splorndle (Jul 15, 2011)

jredburn, do you have a photo?


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## Tom Brueggen (Aug 10, 2011)

Thanks for sharing jredburn! I too do a lot of cutouts and get most of my bees that way. That's smart to "cleanse" the bees during the removal. I need to build a better vac box anyway so I may play on your idea.


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## jredburn (Feb 25, 2012)

When I try to load a image the select file page does not work so you will have to click on the URL.

This is how I make my anti robbing screens.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-cVRFdDFSelQxb2M/edit?usp=sharing

This is the bottom board on a nuc with the frame edge all the way around it and painted black.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-bS00YkI0UWlXWjg/edit?usp=sharing

This is the glue pot of stick board glue that has to be heated. I pour a glob onto the board and use a hot air gun to keep it liquid and spread it with a paint brush to put an even coat on it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-SEdGR0txVWphNmM/edit?usp=sharing

This is the board ready for the hardqare cloth
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-MGZFZVdTckZsUms/edit?usp=sharing

This is the hardqre cloth stretched across the top and nailed in place.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-WlFqUlFMMWNmMVk/edit?usp=sharing


this is the top view with the plexglass cover and the top entrance.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-WlFqUlFMMWNmMVk/edit?usp=sharing

These are the frames I use inside a hive. The top is a 1" wide by 3/8" deep strip of wood with two 1/4" holes drilled in it. The sides are 1/4" dia. dowels. The bottom piece is 3/4" x 3/8" with two holes drilled in it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-dkRuU3l3eEEzWWs/edit?usp=sharing

This is the way I do the one way valve inside the box on a trap out. It is a plastic funnel that is stapled to the inside of the box.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-WUw3LU9sWGRuNHM/edit?usp=sharing

This is my trap out set up.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-ZUJ6VVpGMTB3LUU/edit?usp=sharing
A little closer.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-X3hJZzJtY1E0Y1k/edit?usp=sharing

Real close
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsrmvAD9zj-UjZJV1dfWUVIUlU/edit?usp=sharing


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