# Painting Hive Bodies



## Chef Isaac (Jul 26, 2004)

I was wondering if there was a faster way to paint hive bodies. I know some use a spray gun and some stack up boxes and use a rolling pin to paint. 

Any other ways?

I have 30 to paint tomorrow and would like to stack them up and paint them somewhat quicky (I have to work all weekend). 

Any ideas? 

Thank you!


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

*Painting & other things*

Never time to do it right, always time to do it twice.
Use some old boxes until the new ones are really ready for years of use. What would Grandpa have done?


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## oldenglish (Oct 22, 2008)

spraying is about the fastest way I can think of, I like the roller as it puts a thicker coat on.


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## Chef Isaac (Jul 26, 2004)

Tom:

I do not mean to do it wrong. I can apply a couple coats on it but I just cant take the time to paint them one by one like I used to do.


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## Chef Isaac (Jul 26, 2004)

Old: Do you still need to paint the top sides (like where the fame rests are)?


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## oldenglish (Oct 22, 2008)

Chef, thats where its hard to find a time saving way to do things, the sides are easy no matter how you do it, but getting paint on the edges takes time. About the only short cut is to use a fast drying paint and crank the heat up.


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

*Chef*

Sorry I was a little rude wasn't I? Roller is good for 30 boxes. Airless sprayer will cover a lot of sq' but more paint is wasted. Primer, cure time, finish coat(s), really though you can change out old boxes easy take the time for proper prep & paint on new ones.


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## Chef Isaac (Jul 26, 2004)

thats assuming one has old boxes!


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## Beeslave (Feb 6, 2009)

Stack the boxes as high as you can reach. Put board across top with a brick or something else heavy to prevent them from moving while painting. Use heavy nap roller to apply paint then follow up with brush to get hand holds and inside joints spreading paint applied with roller. After set-up it shouldn't take much time to paint all 30. Use a good quality outdoor primer for first coat. The bees will coat the frame rests with wax and propolis over time.


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## Terry Small Jr (Aug 31, 2008)

For 30, I would use a roller. Where I work (Farmer Bees) we use a sprayer, but we do several hundred at a time.

The little X shaped plastic spacers intended to be used when setting ceramic tile (Home Depot) will prevent the boxes from sticking to each other.


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## Bud Dingler (Feb 8, 2008)

buy cypress boxes from Rossman and skip the paint altogether.....


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## Chef Isaac (Jul 26, 2004)

I painted the boxes and I love the stack and roll method. One question i have is the stick pretty bad and some are hard to take apart. Any tricks?


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## redbee (Dec 29, 2005)

Just pick the stack of boxes up and drop them on their sides on the floor,they will break apart with no harm done.


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## Terry Small Jr (Aug 31, 2008)

Get a bag of ceramic tile spacers from Home Despot and put one on each corner as you stack the boxes. This will leave about a 1/8" gap between each box. Works great, the paint doesn't stick well to the plastic.


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## WGB (Dec 13, 2008)

Terry Small said:


> Get a bag of ceramic tile spacers from Home Despot and put one on each corner as you stack the boxes. This will leave about a 1/8" gap between each box. Works great, the paint doesn't stick well to the plastic.


Do you get much over spray inside?


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## Terry Small Jr (Aug 31, 2008)

It's hard to tell due to how we treat the boxes. First we dilute an oil based primer 50-50 and dip the boxes. They drain on a rack and are then stacked head high using the tile spacers. A scrap box is used on the bottom so we don't have to spray too close to the ground. Then we spray a full strength coat of primer & two coats of paint.

You can't see overspray because the inside of the boxes are already white, though you can still see the grain.

Here's a photo:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30146279&l=47242afd6a&id=1608293741


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## Beeslave (Feb 6, 2009)

Chef Isaac said:


> I painted the boxes and I love the stack and roll method. One question i have is the stick pretty bad and some are hard to take apart. Any tricks?


Work hive tool into side of super(not the end where the endbars go) and pry down. Make sure paint is good and dry. To help insure that the ends don't break score paint between supers with knife. It doesn't have to cut through, it just has to "scratch" in good. I had 1 out of 100 boxes crack on frame rest but I didn't knife between supers.


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## Truchaos (Jun 30, 2008)

I'm going to make a suggestion that is contrary to what many beekeepers practice. 

I've been involved in beekeeping (although not heavily) since the 1970's. Over the years I've taken note as to where super boxes rot. Its my observation that they mainly rot in two places. 

First, since most beekeepers don't paint the top and bottom edge of the box (to prevent sticking) the wood absorbs water and begins to rot at the box edges. Also, the dovetails absorb water and rot, but with a little maintenance to a much lesser degree if they're kept painted. 

So, years ago I began painting the top and bottom edges of the boxes. When they're dry, I apply a very small quantity of petroleum jelly to the top and bottom edges of the boxes. Just a tiny amount is needed or they'll slide around. 

This kills two birds. 1) The boxes last MUCH longer, actually I haven't had any rot 2) They no longer stick together. Just a little tool action is needed. Plus the supers stay looking nicer for a longer period of time. 

Since a tiny amount of petroleum is used, it doesn't squeeze out and the bees don't come in contact with it. 

It only takes a couple minutes longer to paint the edges and it makes the boxes last longer. 

I also suppose that if you didn't paint the edges and still used petroleum jelly, it would also reduce rot. But, I haven't tried that.


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## WGB (Dec 13, 2008)

:thumbsup:


Truchaos said:


> I'm going to make a suggestion that is contrary to what many beekeepers practice.
> 
> I've been involved in beekeeping (although not heavily) since the 1970's. Over the years I've taken note as to where super boxes rot. Its my observation that they mainly rot in two places.
> 
> ...



I'm painting edges as I type this, taking a break, with a roller.:thumbsup:


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## JohnK and Sheri (Nov 28, 2004)

Yes we have always painted edges also. 
When we spray the boxes after they are roller primed, we stack them in a manner that the edges are offset a bit from each other, twisted on top of the one beneath it, they are easy to pop apart once dry.
Sheri


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## alpha6 (May 12, 2008)

We typically fill a dip tank with stain (darker type but doesn't matter) then after they dry we stack um and paint um. The paint goes on great after the staining and it also prevents rot on the tops and bottoms as the stain protects those areas. We have found no problems with the bees using this method as the inside gets stained also.


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## ClintonTull (Dec 7, 2008)

Terry Small said:


> It's hard to tell due to how we treat the boxes. First we dilute an oil based primer 50-50 and dip the boxes. They drain on a rack and are then stacked head high using the tile spacers. A scrap box is used on the bottom so we don't have to spray too close to the ground. Then we spray a full strength coat of primer & two coats of paint.
> 
> You can't see overspray because the inside of the boxes are already white, though you can still see the grain.
> 
> ...


KRIKIE thats a lot of boxes litterally A "LOT"


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## burleyusa (Mar 24, 2009)

Can you paint a couple hives while the bees are still in them? I only have 2 so can't really move the girls out while I do it.


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## Terry Small Jr (Aug 31, 2008)

I wouldn't. The paint fumes could be a problem. I would get an extra box and switch out the frames so you can paint unoccupied hives/supers.

For my own bees, I let the boxes age for 2-3 weeks after painting to let the paint fully cure and the fumes dissipate.

Maybe I'm being overly cautious, but I only have a handful of colonies now, I want to protect them.


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## alpha6 (May 12, 2008)

We painted around 3000 hives last fall with bees in them with no problems. Best to do it early in the morning while it is still cool and they are inside. If you need to scrap do it one day (cause it aggravates them) and then paint the next day. 

I haven't seen other then the odd bee getting stuck in the wet paint any ill effects at all painting a hive body with the bees in it.


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## JohnK and Sheri (Nov 28, 2004)

We have painted boxes with the bees inside. Problem is, when they are on pallets you only get two sides.
Sheri


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## AndreiRN (Jun 13, 2008)

I have learned from an old beek.
I dip the boxes in salt water and if they are used I add a gallon of beach.
I let them dry in the sun few days and then paint. 
I came across some free swiming pool paint that is superb in texture and color.
Salted wood does not rot.


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

*Box prep*

Wow, always something new to learn here. I have seen new boxes hosed down with water to raise the wood fibers before painting ( planer embeds them ) but never heard of salt treatment. Sounds great: Andrei, what is app concentration of salt? Also of bleach for old boxes and how long do you soak or?


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## AndreiRN (Jun 13, 2008)

Salt is to the saturation point. We have a square tank and put 25lb of salt 2 yrs ago anf filled it with water. 
The medical book is saying that 10% clorine solution will kill EVERYTHING.
I add a gallon everytime because clorine will evaporate in few days. 
I soal for 30 - 60 min but my buddy leaves them overnight.
It is important to let them dry very good before painting.
I dipp old frames to but I rinse the before I put the fundation on.


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## Truchaos (Jun 30, 2008)

AndreiRN said:


> The medical book is saying that 10% clorine solution will kill EVERYTHING.
> I dipp old frames to but I rinse the before I put the fundation on.



I wonder what effect this technique would have on equipment exposed to foul brood?


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## Kurt.Kemp (May 19, 2009)

I stack them and use a roller. Oh, and hire a neighbor kid to actually do the work. Helps me, helps them.


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## umbriel971 (Dec 10, 2008)

*Painting Hive bodies*

Argghh, you beat me to it. I too also hire some of the local kids to help when it is time to paint the bodies. Gives them some money and a sense of accomplishment. It also means that since they have worked on them, they are less likely to throw rocks etc at them later or otherwise bug the hives


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## DiverDog (Apr 22, 2009)

Terry Small said:


> You can't see overspray because the inside of the boxes are already white, though you can still see the grain.
> 
> Here's a photo:
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30146279&l=47242afd6a&id=1608293741


Is that a dead rabbit in the very bottom and center of pic??


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## Terry Small Jr (Aug 31, 2008)

I never noticed that. Our shop cat doesn't even have a name, we just call her 'cat'. The owner, Dave, did have some names for her when he witnessed her catch a pigeon in midair.

Now that I think about it, since the only reason she exists, and why Dave buys her food, is to control the rodent population, why did he get so upset when she caught a pigeon midair?


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## JPK (May 24, 2008)

Chef Isaac said:


> I was wondering if there was a faster way to paint hive bodies. I know some use a spray gun and some stack up boxes and use a rolling pin to paint.
> 
> Any other ways?
> 
> ...


You can get one of the wagner power paint guns for ~60 bucks at Lowes.

I hang a 2x4 about 3' off the ground and put it through my supers so they are effectively "hanging"

I can get ~10 supers on a single 2x and put a single coat of primer on them in less than 5 mins.

Let 'em sit in the sun for 1/2 hour and put first coat of exterior paint on.

Give it an hour and put the second coat on and you're done.

Time is money and I can get a lot more stuff done in the time I'm not farting around with a roller/brush

If you're going to paint your house then spring for the $100 painter that has dual spray tips. They do a great job and save a lot of time/headache


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## NorthWest_bee_guy (Jun 14, 2009)

i don't paint my hives call me lazy but i use Copper Naphthenate and it perserves the wood from rot and wood eating insects. and if you get the brown not the green solution your hives take the cedar look to them. does no harm to the bees just make sure you let it cure 24 hours be for placing any bees in the hives.


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## Mathispollenators (Jun 9, 2008)

How do you apply the copper stuff? At the time dad has us mixing it with laquer thinner and dipping them. I'm wondering if there is a better or another way I can try.


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## Bizzybee (Jan 29, 2006)

I have a tub set up and filled with it. I take all of my unassembled parts and submerge them for 15 minutes or longer and allow them to soak up all they will take. Let dry for a few days before assembly. It doesn't take that long to dry but also doesn't hurt. 

The only active ingredient is copper. But the petroleum carrier oil needs to be well dried before allowing the bee's to come in contact with it. I typically don't have bees on the wood any earlier than a week after soaking and assembly. And I also leave everything outside after treating. Any rain will only serve to rinse the surface.

There is also a water based version but it's harder to find and more costly if you have to consider shipping. It's called copper quinolate, I haven't personally used it and have no idea if it is as good?

Side note: I also wipe clean, any residue that hasn't dried on the surface after a day. If you do plan to paint over the parts, it will not stick if any residue is left on the wood. Wiping and leaving for another day or so to dry will avoid that problem.


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## NorthWest_bee_guy (Jun 14, 2009)

I buy it from home depot and its about 4 dollars cheaper then buying it from a bee supplier. I just take a throw away brush apply and let dry for 24 hours and then take out side and let air out a day or two and good to go no rot no wood destroying insects to worry about. and it give you that cedar look too unless you use the green stuff.


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## Eaglerock (Jul 8, 2008)

What is the upside of soaking in that copper? :scratch:


Nevermind I read back... Slow today. I would be afraid though, the effect it would have on bees. I like natural inside the hive.


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## Bizzybee (Jan 29, 2006)

0 problems with bees. No rotting.


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## ekrouse (Aug 26, 2004)

*Latex vs Oil based?*

Who uses exterior latex like I do vs oil based and why?

I've always painted the top and bottom edges of my boxes but have struggled with them sticking together since I use exterior latex paint. I like the petroleum jelly idea.


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## Eaglerock (Jul 8, 2008)

I don't paint the top or bottoms, but the sides I do... even in the 60's and 
70's I never did either. Barry paints everything, inside and out. All depends on you. One thing I ca note: If you paint the tops and bottom edges, give them a rub with steel wool or sand paper or set them on the ground to get a little dirt on them... that will stop the sticking together. Even after you wipe the dirt off the stickiness will be diluted.


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