# What size staple for air nailing frames



## tsmullins (Feb 17, 2011)

I am getting ready to assemble frames for my new hive. I am considering using my air stapler. I have a box of 1 3/8" narrow crown staples. Would they be too long? Kelley's assembled the ones in my nuc, and the width is exactly the same.

Thanks
Shane


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## AmericasBeekeeper (Jan 24, 2010)

not too long!


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## tsmullins (Feb 17, 2011)

Many thanks,

I really appreciate the help.

Shane


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## NasalSponge (Jul 22, 2008)

I am trying to remember what I use, I think I use 1" on frames.


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## fish_stix (May 17, 2009)

Yep. 1 3/8" is fine, 1 1/2" is 1/8" better!


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## tsmullins (Feb 17, 2011)

NasalSponge said:


> I am trying to remember what I use, I think I use 1" on frames.


I would prefer the bit shorter, but I have a box of 3000 1 3/8".


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

1 3/8" or 1 1/2 is fine


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## NeilV (Nov 18, 2006)

Use glue and inspect each frame after it's been stapled. I find that some of them need to be whacked with a hammer to make the joint completely tight and get the glue to set up well.


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## tsmullins (Feb 17, 2011)

Thanks Neil,

I had bought and used some Loctite III for the boxes. Will keep my rubber mallet handy to completely set the frames. Thanks for the tip.

Shane


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## redbee (Dec 29, 2005)

look out for the fingers ,or you will be attached to the frames,ouch


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## FarmerJ (Feb 23, 2011)

tsmullins said:


> Thanks Neil,
> 
> I had bought and used some Loctite III for the boxes. Will keep my rubber mallet handy to completely set the frames. Thanks for the tip.
> 
> Shane


Loctite or Titebond III?

Titebond III is waterproof.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

When the project expands into more than a few boxes, consider a frame assembly jig, as seen in the Build-it-Yourself section. A great complement to a staple gun, and WAY SAFER to the fingers. Don't forget a face shield.


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## tsmullins (Feb 17, 2011)

redbee said:


> look out for the fingers ,or you will be attached to the frames,ouch


Thanks for that important tip. It actually saved my thumb. Really appreciate the safety reminder.


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## tsmullins (Feb 17, 2011)

kilocharlie said:


> When the project expands into more than a few boxes, consider a frame assembly jig, as seen in the Build-it-Yourself section. A great complement to a staple gun, and WAY SAFER to the fingers. Don't forget a face shield.


I will definitely check out the jig. 

Shane


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## natureboy68 (Feb 28, 2009)

+1 for a jig they take a bit of time to make but you can roar through 10 frames in no time...watch out for blowouts when you shoot the staples in...i will always have one or two frames that the staples angled in and blewout the other side, just watch the angle you shoot them in and they should be fine...i used titebond II or elmers carpenters water resistant glue...have fun!


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

+1 for jig. I have been using 1" long narrow crown staples but am finding issues with the joints holding together. I want to convert to 1.25 staples. 

Mike


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## toekneepea (Jul 7, 2010)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> +1 for jig. I have been using 1" long narrow crown staples but am finding issues with the joints holding together. I want to convert to 1.25 staples.
> 
> Mike


Mike, are you using glue in addition to your staples?

TP


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Of course! I think my glue was bad though. 

mike


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

I just put an inch of that 1 1/2" narrow crown staple thru my finger. God watches over children and old fools and it missed the bone and was slip no damage. Don't try to staple as fast as you can!


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

Vance - When your finger is feeling better, build that jig. It keeps your hands entirely clear of the shooting direction and you only have to be careful of jams, blowouts and ricochets. It only took me one stapled finger to figure that out.

Also, blowouts are caused by wavy wood grain or pinhole knots near the end of the stick, or sometimes by hitting another staple, nail or screw. If you select only strong, straight grained wood for the frames, it greatly reduces the number of blowouts.

Incidently, when stapling hive bodies, I don't shoot a staple into the top edges of the short ends where the notch for the frame hangers reduces the thickness of the wood from 3/4" to 3/8". Blowouts ruin too many boxes, and there is a lot of work into a box by that time. A metal, 2-inch, 90 degree angle strap repairs the wood if the glue joint doesn't hold it. Screw these in back past the finger box joints.

I find pouring glue into a half soda bottle and applying it with a paintbrush is much quicker than using the squeeze bottle when using the frame jig or when assembling hive bodies. Keep a coffee can or bucket with water and a wet sponge for cleanup.


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