# which pest control



## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>What would be the most beneficial pest controls to purchase . I have ordered 2 packages of all American bees for this spring and I know it is just a matter of time before I get pests. I would like to have some basics to have on hand.

Weaver's All Americans are untreated. They should not require any treatments.

>What would be the recommended pest controls for mites and hive beetles I assume I will eventually have in the hive.

They will come with the bees. You will have them from the start.

> I've tried to search but do not see a recommended minimum to have on hand normally.

I have none on hand...

http://www.bushfarms.com/beespests.htm


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

What would be the recommended pest controls for mites and hive beetles I assume I will eventually have in the hive. I've tried to search but do not see a recommended minimum to have on hand normally 

I would go with Oxalic Acid Vaporization for mites as it does not harm the brood, bees or queen. Search BS as there is TONS of information on it. As to SHB, strong hives are your best bet as there is no really good treatment for SHB.


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## Rusty Hills Farm (Mar 24, 2010)

> As to SHB, strong hives are your best bet as there is no really good treatment for SHB.


This is true--as far as it goes. There ARE some things you can do, however. Keep the hives in full sun. Never give the bees more space than they can comfortably cover. Use IPM traps. In my case I use oil pans under the screened bottom boards and find these to be a great help.

HTH


Rusty


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## OkieRob (Dec 31, 2014)

Michael Bush said:


> >
> 
> Weaver's All Americans are untreated. They should not require any treatments.
> 
> ...


I did not order from weavers, is it safe to assume all all-americans are the same? These are coming out of Pennsylvania .


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

"All-American" is the name Weaver uses for their bees. I haven't seen anyone else use it. I don't know that it's registered as a trade mark but they have always used that trade name for as long as I've know (back to the early 70s). Where you are picking them up may not be related to their actual origin. Also, it's possible someone has been breeding their own bees from what was originally Weaver stock and they are calling them that...


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## OkieRob (Dec 31, 2014)

I just reread that the place I purchased my bees from may ship from other producers that are closer to my area. It is possible they may be coming from weavers I suppose.


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

Rob, the important thing is to keep track of whether or not you have pests. The varroa mite is the pest that can surely kill your bees as it does many many colonies. Use the search function on this forum and learn to test with a sugar roll. No need to dose the bees if they do not have a problem. Keep track of those levels as they can go up pretty fast if your bees are not as mite resistant as we all hope our bees are. Best of luck sir.


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## OkieRob (Dec 31, 2014)

Vance G said:


> Rob, the important thing is to keep track of whether or not you have pests. The varroa mite is the pest that can surely kill your bees as it does many many colonies. Use the search function on this forum and learn to test with a sugar roll. No need to dose the bees if they do not have a problem. Keep track of those levels as they can go up pretty fast if your bees are not as mite resistant as we all hope our bees are. Best of luck sir.


 That is why I was wondering if I need to purchase a treatment for "just in case". There are no local places near me that I am aware of that would stock any of the approved treatments. I would have to order and have it shipped.


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## Vance G (Jan 6, 2011)

If the bees you get have no mites on them when you get them and that is possible, they will eventually have some come in with robbers or stray drones who are welcome anywhere. Then the slow at first buildup of the mite population begins. The bees in a spring package or nuc are going to be outbreeding the mites and staying ahead of them. The earliest you will have problems is next fall. Most colonies make it to the second season and crash in August or September. You just don't need medicine on hand, it doesn't happen that fast. Who knows, your all American bees in your specific place in space and time may handle the mites by themselves. You may choose to cull drones and control the mites that way. At least on commercial beek on this forum uses that instead of medication. You may choose to make your colony queenless for a time or raise a new queen and the broodless period causes the mite population to crash and do that instead of medicate. All these possibilities exist and can be as effective as medication. 

In my opinion avoid the big open hole in the bottom screened bottom board at least in any month when it gets below fifty at night and no wind would be good to. Bees need to maintain their brood in the nineties and how do they build up in the spring with that huge pneumonia hole. The SBB may do some good but the problems they cause can far exceed the possible gain. I will have offended those to whom they are a sacred artifact but that is what I believe.

This is all why you need to learn to do sugar rolls to know how many mites you have. Periodically, take a capping scratcher and pull a 100 drone pupae and count how many mites you find. If you only find one or two chestnut colored dots, things are not critical. If you find dozens, it is time to immediately deploy what medication or practice you have decided is your chosen way. Even then, you have time to place an order---but no more than that or your colony is doomed. 

Life was so much simpler before these mites but beekeeping is still the greatest show of earth!


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

Hope for the best case scenarios presented; they occasionally come true I would also prepare for the worst. Some people are tuned on by the challenge of hoping for the best rather than the feeling of comfort from of being prepared for the worst. Your choice.


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

crofter said:


> Hope for the best case scenarios presented; they occasionally come true I would also prepare for the worst. Some people are tuned on by the challenge of hoping for the best rather than the feeling of comfort from of being prepared for the worst. Your choice.



Uh I believe that is the whole point of this thread.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

Harley, some of the advice seems to point more to the "dont worry, be happy" approach.


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## BadBeeKeeper (Jan 24, 2015)

OkieRob said:


> What would be the most beneficial pest controls to purchase . I have ordered 2 packages of all American bees for this spring and I know it is just a matter of time before I get pests. I would like to have some basics to have on hand.
> 
> What would be the recommended pest controls for mites and hive beetles I assume I will eventually have in the hive. I've tried to search but do not see a recommended minimum to have on hand normally.


For me, basics to have on-hand are MAQS and Fumagilin-B. I've not seen SHB here so I have nothing to offer on that subject.


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## Box (Jul 30, 2010)

The best way i have found to deal with mites , is actualy free and is always ready to use : learn the biologi of the bees and the mite .there are many variations on how to lower the mite population. The capped brood is a fantastic trap because the mites have to go inthere if they want to reproduce...and they do .
Break the mite cykle by letting the bees make a new queen and you will get more bees to go trough vinter.
No chems or acid needed.
We dont have shb yet , but we have heard that the italiens are loosing the battle so we will get them , so i try to learn all i can about the critter ahead of time.
Good luck


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## papabear (Mar 5, 2014)

+ 1 I concur with snl


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