# Question about CheckMite +



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Hmm, I don't see why an SBB would make any difference. From the mainufacturer:



> *For beetle infestation: just lay them in.*
> 
> Using CheckMite+ strips to control beetle infestation is similar to the method employed for Varroa mite control, but there are important differences. Prior to use, remove the honey combs and only reinsert them 14 days after the strips have been removed. Cut a strip into two halves and *stick these to a piece of cardboard. Place this on the middle of the floor board and attach it with adhesive tape *so that the bees cannot eat it or remove it. The strips should be facing downwards. Leave this in the hive for a minimum of 42 days and a maximum of 45 days. The timing of the treatment is the same: prior to initial honey flow in the spring and following the last honey harvest in the autumn. Do not treat the hives more than four times per year for beetle infestation and do not use the strips when the bees are producing surplus honey.
> 
> http://www.animalhealth.bayer.com/3424.0.html



You should be able to tape the cardboard to the screen. If you feel that won't work, instead of cardboard, use a thin piece of wood and just set the wood on the screen.

And for those that suggest _hanging _the strips, note that the OP is asking about *SHB *control. The manufacturer provides _different _instructions for using Checkmite+ to control varroa. Click the link above for more info.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

On the bottom board I have a top screen, then a plastic cardboard bottom sheet, then a screen under that. The cardboard bottom sheet can be removed. It's white plastic. I think it's to see varroa mites that drop from the hive. Should the Checkmite + be on the top screen or under the top screen on the white cardboard plastic? Should I remove the white cardboard plastic sheet or what?

Thanks.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Put the Checkmite on top of the screen, so that it is accessible to the beetles (and bees) that have _not _passed through the screen.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Thank you, I have it done. I used duct tape on the top of the cardboard, Checkmite facing towards the bottom, stapled, as directed. Only thing I forgot is to tape it to the screen. It's on 4x4. I cannot see how the bees could move the 4x4. I did notice a few hive beetles on the bottom board.

JimmyA


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## Velbert (Mar 19, 2006)

Going to try this shb treatment does not have to be put on bottom.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Velbert said:


> Going to try this shb treatment does not have to be put on bottom.


That looks like a good idea. I've had my Checkmite in for several days now. I still saw a hive beetle crawling on a frame. Some dead on the bottom that fell through the screen after contact. I was just thinking what about the beetles on the frames that don't fall? Seems like they would never have contact with the poison.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

How long have you been beekeeping, Jimmy? Long enough to know the history of Checkmite and that it's considered the most toxic of treatments out there? I always hate to see beekeepers resorting to this product.


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## Velbert (Mar 19, 2006)

If done wright if using for shb the bees don't come in contact with the checkmite that other piece of plasticell is placed on top with just enough gap for the shb to get into. Bees may come into contact with very very low amount when dragging out the shb that the check mite has killed.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

I was in beekeeping for 5 years years ago. There were varroa mites but no hive beetles. Just started this year again and found out about the beetles. I don't have any supers on so no worry about the honey for human consumption. Once you let them go and get hive beetle larva in your hive, that hive is done.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

I found a hive beetle on a grass blade ready to try and fly in. These things are menacing! They actuall fly from other hives for miles and infect other hives. This is not good. They came from Sub Saharon Africa! Go figure with all the world trade and travel. I have one hive with a Minnesota Hygenic and the other with a Russian (queens). I plan on fighting the hive beetles.


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## AR Beekeeper (Sep 25, 2008)

JimmyA: You have never said how many beetles you are seeing in your colony. Unless you are seeing several hundred each time you go in you probably don't need to be treating.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

I have seen 8 but it only takes 1 to lay eggs and then you have larvae. See, I have underdeveloped nucs that I started late, so they need some extra protection.


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## AR Beekeeper (Sep 25, 2008)

The type of bees you say you have handle the beetles well. They keep the beetles cornered and will clean the eggs out befoe they hatch. The only thing you need to do is to be sure you don't over super so that the bees have more area to patrol than they can handle. Just keep the population of adult bees strong and forget the checkmite, you will have no problems.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

That's my situation, I have some frames that are not drawn out. It's too late in the season to find more bees for hive support. I am getting some bee larva, feeding sugar water, trying to get the frames drawn out so the queens can continue to lay. I have a robber screen but still have robbing, I think.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

I was working them today and another hive beetle flew in.


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## JStinson (Mar 30, 2013)

Jimmy, take a breath brother. 

If you have enough bees to cover the _drawn_ frames (undrawn frames are not a problem), they will easily take care of any SHB larvae that hatches. If you have 10 beetles in a hive, you don't have a problem. You really only need to treat if you see a significant amount of them during an inspection. 

Also, there are a few non toxic treatments that work extremely well and keep you from having to use checkmite.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Yes, I am going to leave them in for 45 days and then quit with Checkmite. I have installed some traps from the various bee catalogs. And no, I don't have enough bees to cover all drawn frames completely. The bees are working on wax and doing fine. I have eggs in one nuc. Looking for eggs on the other soon.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

John Pluta has a nice trap used just in the entrance for hive beetles. I order a few. Looks like it will help.

Jim


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## JStinson (Mar 30, 2013)

I have some of John's traps. They work fairly well. Some bees have a tendency to propolize the holes. For me, the jury is still out on if I like John's traps or the better beetle blaster oil trap better.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

I am moving away from the coumaphos. Trying various traps. Going to try John's traps at the entrance later this year. Of course, his traps use coumophous at the entrance. 

JimmyA


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Yes, I agree, I am looking to see the solution. **** beetles, there is always something coming along causing trouble. Hopefully, someone will have a total solution. I think Dr. Spivic is doing well with her research.

JimmyA


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

I was reading somewhere about making a Wintergreen disc and putting it on the top bars of brood frames. I have not tried that yet.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

JimmyA said:


> there is always something coming along causing trouble. Hopefully, someone will have a total solution.


I think you would do well to let go of this idea. History has proven that there is no _total_ solution.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

That's right, that's right, that's right!


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## Blackwater Bees (May 7, 2012)

I've used checkmite for SHB the last two summers. Nothing is as satisfying as picking up that little square of cardboard and seeing dozens and dozens of dead beetles under it. I do get a better kill on solid bottom boards, but have saved hives by putting it on the sbb in a corner so the beetles will seek refuge there. I normally don't put them in unless I see a couple of dozen beetles or if the hive is weak and I see any. I have a large beetle problem from june to september, I can watch the beetles fly to the hives when they disc the cucumber and watermelon fields around me.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Maybe I should move my cardboard pieces to the corner as I have SBB. I have it in the middle of my screened bottom boards plus I have beetle oil traps at the top. Those top traps are so close to the top board, I don't see how the bees can clear the small place.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Yes, I removed by double-strip on cardboard and used one-half strip on corrigated plastic and put in the corner for both nucs. I took out the cardboard. Those nucs are on constant sugar syrup. Hope I can get them built up before winter.

JimmyA


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## seapro220 (Mar 14, 2013)

Not to out due anyone with their SHB problems, but listen to what my situation is ..

I have 4 hives, and 1 double-nuc box.
For the last 3.5 weeks I've been replacing, due to them being almost full - 3 to 4 betterbeetletraps out of each hive - every 5 days. I've also been killing between 20 and 45 that are 'loose' running around the telescoping top each time I remove it - as well as about 90 the other day that were congregating along the screened bottom board whenever I decided to swap the deep boxes around. Think you've got it bad - try fighting this battle. I use diamatious earth around the hives, have 'installed' Nematodes around the hives a week ago, the hives are in a 75% sunny spot with the exception of 1 hive - which I'll move this weekend.
I've removed the inner covers to keep them from having any other hiding spots in the hives, and use only screen bottom boards. I think I'm going to have to resort to using checkmite+ because if I don't, I'll probably loose 1/2 my hives this winter. All hives are around 70% bee population and there isn't "more room" than they can take care of. I'm feeding them 1-2-1 sugar water now with HBH to keep their numbers up and encourage the queens to keep laying.

so... thought you had it bad huh ??


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Just for information, I am using Beetle Blaster trap at the top of frame around brood frames and I found 25 beetles in the trap. Initially I saw 8 in the hive. Just because you don't see them doesn't mean you don't have any. I bought a bottom board by Miller Bees Manufacturing. It's a nice bottom board with a special area in the back to trap hive beetles with oil. Nice board. You can use traps and coumophous and other things but you will still have hive beetles. They are devious. They fly 6 miles or more so treating your soil won't help much. They can smell a hive for miles.


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## seapro220 (Mar 14, 2013)

I've heard the flight-path mentioned many times before also, and have also heard that the larva can potentially crawl a long distance in search of some ground area in which to bury - and gestate. Somebody needs to come up with some type of hive-smelling lure trap - sort of like what's used for June bugs. This trap could be places somewhere else around our apiaries to lure them into their death ....


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

The Japanese beetle traps would be a good example. The bugs fly around eating plants, especially grape vines. They lay eggs in the ground which turn to larva, eat grass roots and in the spring fly from the ground to repeat the process. I used diamiticulous earth (sp) and grub killer. 
I guess trapping works pretty good for now. But you have a good idea!


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

Another option is to put a little piece - 1-2" of checkmite inside an old fashioned CD case - not the new slimline cases. The beetles can get in through the little slots in the sides and on some through a hole in the middle - bees can not. It will kill a lot of beetles and the bees can't get to it at all. It also only requires a little piece of checkmite per trap so that probably also limits exposure. Follow the precautions if you do.

But I concur - 10 beetles in a hive is like no beetles at all. Don't do anything if that is all you see. For sure don't use check mite.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Good idea with the old CD cases. Let's see, you open your hive and see 8 beetles. Wow, you think I sure am lucky, some people have hundreds. Then you put in a Better Beetle Blaster trap. You check a few days later and you find 25 hive beetles. I think you should be concerned. These beetles don't mess around. I would suggest being proactive before they take over your hive. They are very aggressive. 

JimmyA


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## JStinson (Mar 30, 2013)

JimmyA said:


> I am moving away from the coumaphos. Trying various traps. Going to try John's traps at the entrance later this year. Of course, his traps use coumophous at the entrance.
> 
> JimmyA


For what it's worth, I've decided that John's traps and the beetle blaster are about the same as far as effectiveness goes. The oil traps are less aggravating. Stick a couple between the frames and pull them when they've done their job. The bees don't propolise the holes either.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

My point was that people said I didn't have any problem if I just saw 8 beetles. I started to believe them until I put in that beetle blaster trap and found it full with 25 beetles. Then I realized this is a new problem not to be ignored. I am going to wait about a week and see what's in those traps.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Try using the Beetle Barn. I just installed them in my hives.


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## seapro220 (Mar 14, 2013)

The problem I've had with the betterbeetleblaster traps is that the traps don't sit 'flat'. This give some refuge for the shb to hide under, but I've found a solution...run your fingers along both sides before you remove them and you wont believe how many extra you can kill.
I'm using the small cd-cases with some experimental baitin them now, in addition to the traps on top. I just put them on the screened bottom boards this am so it'll update back in a few days as to their effectiveness. I wanted to use the larger cd-cases but thought the bees might be able to get in thereto the checkmate. Where do you make the holes for the larger cases?


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

The ones I use have 4 slots in them already which are big enough for beetles but too small for bees.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

I have a Beetle Barn on the top frames too but it is a tight fit. Everything I have tried always collects Hive Beetles.

JimmyA


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

I put a small coumphas strip in there and used John's roach bait. I don't have any supers. This is a brood box. Brood is doing well. I'll see how it goes and get back.


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## seapro220 (Mar 14, 2013)

Not too much success, or a measurable difference using the "bait" but will look into the beetle barns and update back.


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## Velbert (Mar 19, 2006)

I tried these with a little cheap cooking oil this was 2 days on and after i thought i had smashed most all of the shb there was 12 in the oil


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## seapro220 (Mar 14, 2013)

I just checked one of my hives that has 3 betterbeetleblaster traps in it. Although these traps seem to work - most of them are not laying 'flat' in the hives and it gives plenty of room for the shb to hide under the sides. time to search for another product, and figure out how to use the check mite product - even though I've been resisting it. Here's a picture of what I scrapped off, after scrapping the tops - to kill what didn't flee after I removed the top. pretty convincing evidence, i'd say .. This was under only 1 of the traps, I had almost as many under the other one. So that makes 2 out of 3 that aren't much good - cause they don't always lay flat.


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## JStinson (Mar 30, 2013)

> Although these traps seem to work - most of them are not laying 'flat' in the hives and it gives plenty of room for the shb to hide under the sides. time to search for another product, and figure out how to use the check mite product - even though I've been resisting it.


If you take the two frames where your traps are and push them apart _just a little_, you will be able to lay them flat. It does not take much. Then, after you put the trap in, push the frames back together. If the trap stays flat, then great. If it rises up, then just leave your frames a little apart. You might be able to get away with moving just one side of the frames apart (just offset the trap of center).

To me, leaving a couple of frames apart is worth it not to have to deal with the chemical and huge inconvenience of using checkmite.


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## seapro220 (Mar 14, 2013)

Tried that, as I only have 8 frames in a 10-frame box - just for this reasoning. I'd thought the same thing at first glance because as I pushed the frames back together, the traps would 'buldge' up - so I pushed them further apart to get them (or at least try to) to lay flat.


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## JStinson (Mar 30, 2013)

I've had good luck doing this: After ungluing the frames from the box, push the beetle blaster between two frames that are completely together. It will move the frames only the amount they need to be moved.


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## JimmyA (Jul 22, 2013)

Going to check mine later this week. I have Beetle Blaster and Beetle Barn. Just had a bunch of new Minnesota Hygenic babies hatch out. They were flying out in front of the hive so clean and baby-like. They don't know what life is about yet, but they were clean and cute baby bees.


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## BeeThere (Jul 5, 2011)

JimmyA said:


> Just for information, I am using Beetle Blaster trap at the top of frame around brood frames and I found 25 beetles in the trap. Initially I saw 8 in the hive. Just because you don't see them doesn't mean you don't have any. I bought a bottom board by Miller Bees Manufacturing. It's a nice bottom board with a special area in the back to trap hive beetles with oil. Nice board. You can use traps and coumophous and other things but you will still have hive beetles. They are devious. They fly 6 miles or more so treating your soil won't help much. They can smell a hive for miles.


I might add they are very good at hiding from you! But the bees know right where they are. Your point is an excellent one, just because you don't see any or <10, <20 etc.,etc. doesn't indicate no need to be watchful. Use the Beetle Blaster type (passive) traps for a early warning indicator. If your one of those that aren't having a beetle problem you might be in for a surprise.

A strong hive is a healthy hive and that hive will be able to defend itself from most hazards, but we are obliged as BKeepers to assist them in these domesticate Bee Homes. JMO


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