# Tool tip: what should I look for in a stapler?



## Ben Brewcat (Oct 27, 2004)

I'm going to be assembling a bunch of frames over winter, and am NOT GOING TO USE A HAMMER ANY MORE FOR ASSEMBLING FRAMES! Saw one in Kelly's catalog but I'm a learn, then buy guy. I've never used a stapler, so:

What do I need to know? Staple size? Crown size? I see "narrow crown" staplers, are there "big ole crown" staplers I need to avoid? I can borrow a compressor easily, but if electric ones are available/reliable/adequate that'd be OK too. I don't really know what else I'd use one for around the house, but I'm kind of project-prone. What else can you staple with a frame-assembling stapler?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I bought the one from Kelley but you can buy similar ones at the local lumberyard. I like 1/4" pneumatic crown staplers that will hold from 1/2" to 1 1/2" staples. The 1 1/2" work for boxes especially if you glue also and the 1" works well for frames. 1 1/4" are nice for nailing cleats or other things where you don't want to come through two one bys. The 1/2" are nice for nailing on #8 hardware cloth for bottom boards etc. 5/8" are nice for shims to make my top entrance lids. I've been very happy I bought it and have gotten a lot of use out of it.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I bought this Bostitch:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...nktype=product&storeId=10051&ddkey=THDSiteMap

I've used it a lot without any problems. I have a bigger stapler that I use for boxes but I'm sure that this one would do as well. You really need the narrow crown for the frames. I also used it when I made up a bunch of migratory covers. You can find these staplers used or reconditioned pretty easily if you want to go that route.


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## Ben Brewcat (Oct 27, 2004)

Thanks guys! How much PSI and CFM does the compressor need to run those?


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## iddee (Jun 21, 2005)

Most name brands are good, as long as you drop a drop of oil in the air entrance before and after each use. The things you need to look for are the size and type staple you need, and especially the AVAILABILITY and price of the staples.

Electric ones won't hold a candle to an air one.


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## WVbeekeeper (Jun 4, 2007)

since you have never used a stapler, let me recommend that you should purchase the 3/8" thick end bars only. you will not be able to place the staples as accurately as you can a nail when learning to use the stapler and might get some "shiners". you won't need a large compressor, though one might be handy for other projects. i purchased a small 5 gallon dual tank compressor at a local pawn shop over the summer for $55 just to have in the garage for small assembly jobs when my tools only require shorts blasts of air. for bigger jobs i break out the big boy.


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## Ben Brewcat (Oct 27, 2004)

Um, shiner meaning the end bar blew up and pegged me? Sounds... exciting


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## WVbeekeeper (Jun 4, 2007)

"Shiner" is a term used by carpenters to describe a nail that goes through your mark but not into your intended target. For instance, if you're nailing a piece of sheeting on a wall (frame of studs) and you miss the stud you will see a shiny nail on the inside of the wall beside the stud you missed. If you don't hold the stapler or nailer really straight it is really easy to do. Then when you push insulation into the wall between the studs you can puncture yourself quite easily on the shiners if you're in a hurry. A 3/8" endbar will give you a bigger target to hit with the staple than a 1/4" endbar will. I would purchase a finish (or trim) nailer instead of a pneumatic stapler. They are more versatile and more handy around the house and for other projects. You can use them on wedge bars and divided bottom bars too.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Sometimes a staple will hit a knot and come back out the way it went in or out the side or most anywhere else. It happens often enough to be worth keeping your hands out of the way, but not often enough to keep the stapler from being a much faster way to make frames (or whatever).


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

I have always used Senco pneumatic tools in my construction work and they have always lived up to the task. This would work well for what you want to do:

http://www.senco.com/con_rem/ViewTool.aspx?toolid=160

Outside of their framing nailers, Senco doesn't require the use of oil. So far I've never been "bitten" by a pneumatic fastener, but a couple close calls.

- Barry


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## RSUCHAN (Oct 20, 2006)

*Staplers*

I hate to say this but we have been purchasing the cheepie $20.00 jobbies from Menards. Tool Shop brand I think, made by China slave labor I am sure. 
With just a little oil before each use they will last to the tune of 50000 staples and give up. 
And for 20 bucks how can one go wrong?







Ok Mr. moderator, put your big blue check by this post of mine as you always do!


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

RSUCHAN said:


> made by China


Sorry, I can't bring myself to buy tools made in China/Taiwan/etc.

- Barry


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## riverrat (Jun 3, 2006)

Michael Bush said:


> Sometimes a staple will hit a knot and come back out the way it went in or out the side or most anywhere else. It happens often enough to be worth keeping your hands out of the way, but not often enough to keep the stapler from being a much faster way to make frames (or whatever).


 
yep watch where you put your hands when using the stapler it hurts trust me


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## shepherd (Feb 1, 2006)

*stapler*

2 years ago I purchased one from Harbor Freight for 19.95 which has put together hundreds of frames without missing a beat. I believe it will use staples or brads to 2" (maybe 1 1/2" I'm not sure). It's is probably something you would not want to use every day, all day but for my purposes it has been wonderful. Used it for T&G wainscoting in the house also.


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## RSUCHAN (Oct 20, 2006)

Same deal with ours. 
I hate like hell to buy China " Stuff " but for $20 buck & what work you can do with this tool for that price ya gota go with it!


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## Kieck (Dec 2, 2005)

> Sorry, I can't bring myself to buy tools made in China/Taiwan/etc. -Barry


So, what brands do you buy to avoid the "made in China/Taiwan/etc." and where are those made?


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

I have a wide assortment of brands for my tools. I stopped at one of my suppliers today and checked a couple items.

None of these are made in China or Taiwan. Mostly U.S. or Germany. At least the line of tools I use within these brands. Some are commercial grade.

Skil
Bosch
Makita
Milwaukee
Fein

I'm pretty sure Hitachi and Senco, but I didn't verify it today.

All the stationery tools for my shop are Delta or Rockwell which were all made in the U.S.

- Barry


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## PFA (Sep 1, 2006)

*Porter-Cable*

I bought the packaged combination pancake compressor (150psi, 6gal), brad nailer and narrow crown stapler from Home Depot on close-out (end of season) two years ago. They have worked flawlessly. Porter Cable is a US company (Tenn. I think), but the staplers are made in Taiwan (I just looked).

You can avoid putting a drop of oil in at each use by using an in line oiler. Again home depot for less than $10.


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## Ben Brewcat (Oct 27, 2004)

Jeez, I've looked at some of the PC staplers, but none I saw were rated to 150 PSI. Are compressors adjustable in their PSI output? Is it important to have a cycling-power one (that pressurizes the tank and shuts off until the pressure drops)?


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

120 psi is all you need.


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## PFA (Sep 1, 2006)

I agree 120psi is all you need. The 150psi model was on sale at a much lower price than the 125psi models. And yes the psi output is adjustable - I've found that 100psi actually works the best for assembling frames as it doesn't drive the staples in to far and is less likely to split or blow out the bottom bar.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Anything over 80PSI will drive staples or brads for frames from most guns. Turning it down a little makes the gun last a little longer. Another vote for Senco guns here. I have framing, 15 guage construction stapler, 15 guage finish gun, and 23 guage pin gun. My 18 guage brad gun is a PC that came with my compressor. It works fine too.


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## Grant (Jun 12, 2004)

Everything I buy these days seems to break down pretty quick. My stapler is electric and it came from Sears. I'll have to check if it was made in China, but it did come with a one-year warranty, provided I hang on to the receipt.

Any more, warranties attract my attention. 

Grant
Jackson, MO www.25hives.homestead.com


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## JBJ (Jan 27, 2005)

I have been using the Senco narrow crown, oil free, with extreme duty cycles for ten years, and it still runs great. I did have to put a new gasket kit in it the third year I had it. 

It is very nice to have tools that are worth repairing so that if they break so they do no end up in a landfill.


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## power napper (Apr 2, 2005)

HI Ben
You are definately moving in the right direction with air. My brad nailer is from Harbor freight , it cost around 19 bucks. I bought a almost new narrow crown Bosch for 35 dollars, it works super good, better than a brad nailer in my opinion but the staples are more expensive naturally.
Quite a few of my frames have had RED on them and it was not paint. When a brad comes out the side and your finger is there "ouch".
Good goggles is a definate also "just in case". 
You will wonder why you waited so long to get one.


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## randydrivesabus (Apr 27, 2006)

i just bought a small compressor and it came with a kit of tools including a combo stapler/brad nailer from HD for $59. its a 2 gallon tank and it limits at 100lbs. i've used it once to assemble a deep box and it worked very nicely except if i hit a knot. i'm using low grade 3/4" pine so theres right many knots. but it was nice not driving 14,000,000 nails or clamping. just glue, shoot, and square up and let dry. since HD has a no questions asked 30 day return policy i'm gonna use it a lot in the next couple of weeks and if it breaks then i'll return it and get something more substantial.


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## Ben Brewcat (Oct 27, 2004)

Thanks folks! This is great, what did we ever do before we could ask 5000 people for their experiences . For anal-retentives like me, this saves me a bunch of medication before making a decision !


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## Ben Brewcat (Oct 27, 2004)

OK, maybe I'm crazy but small compressor, stapler/brad driver and free shipping for $135?

http://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-Nailer-Narrow-Stapler-Compressor/dp/B000JQQT6O

I know that compressor wouldn't be up to much past staples and truck tires (like a framing nailgun), but seems like a smokin' deal, no?


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## PFA (Sep 1, 2006)

If you look under the "What Do Customers Ultimately Buy After Viewing Items Like This?" the Porter-Cable package is similar to what I purchased on close-out from HomeDepot.


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## Jeffzhear (Dec 2, 2006)

iddee said:


> Most name brands are good, as long as you drop a drop of oil in the air entrance before and after each use. The things you need to look for are the size and type staple you need, and especially the AVAILABILITY and price of the staples.
> 
> Electric ones won't hold a candle to an air one.


Just curious; my sons bought me a Bostitch SX150 Industrial Oil-free narrow crown stapler for Christmas and I wondering if putting a drop of oil in the air entrance would be a wise thing to do. It does say Oil-free and I wouldn't want to gum it up or something? Thoughts?

And wow, does it speed up the assembly of frames!


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Actually, I framed my whole house with a little PC 2 gallon oilless compressor. It drives a framing gun just fine. It would probably keep 2 framers in air.


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## Meadow Stone Farm (May 4, 2005)

*not to brag*

...but my uncle bought a fancy (read: expensive) milwaukee pneumatic staple gun. they accidentally sent him two. he called to return it but never received a return label. so i ended up with it for free. it's beautiful and the few times i use it it has been great. most of the time i get half way through a project with nails before i remember i have the thing...i'm not used to having fancy tools.

kris


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