# Workable mouse guard?



## Spark (Feb 24, 2011)

Looks good I myself just bought some aluminum angle sold at the Big box stores and local hardware store, cut it to size, drill holes in it and works just like the stainless steel ones you see for sale but cheaper..oops I mean inexpensive


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> Anyone see any downfalls?

Well, I believe that mice can get through a 1/2" hole.  :lookout:

From Michael Bush


> *Mice.*
> 
> Genus Mus. Many species and varieties. Also shrews (Cry ptotis parva). Mostly these are a problem during winter when the bees are clustered and the mice move in. *Using #4 hardware cloth (1/4" squares) *over the entrances will let the bees in and out and not the mice. Or use only an upper entrance so the mice can't get in.
> 
> http://www.bushfarms.com/beespests.htm


- and from University of Georgia -


> Mice can get through any hole that will admit the tip of your little finger.
> 
> http://warnell.forestry.uga.edu/service/library/index.php3?docID=420


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

Aaargh... I was afraid that 1/2" might be too big. 1/4" seems so small. So 1/4" squares or 3/8" round holes? Both effective?


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

Thanks Radar.


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## SWM (Nov 17, 2009)

Not sure why you are using a reducer and hardware cloth both. The reducer alone should be enough to keep the mice out unless you are just being extra cautious. I don't reduce the entrance but use hardware cloth for mice. I used 1/4" for years and it works okay but slows the bees down some and drags some pollen off in the spring. Last year I wintered 50+ hives using 1/2" without any problems with mice and it's less restrictive for the bees.

While 3/8" hardware cloth is uncommon, they do make it. I found some on-line but it required buying a full roll for around $150 + shipping!


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

SWM I read that a mouse can chew through a wooden reducer so that was the reason for the hardware cloth. Maybe it is a Belt and suspenders approach. Thanks for your comments.


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

Spark... what size holes did you drill?


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

One option I read in a previous thread was to buy some inexpensive metal drywall corner bead like this:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Enlarge the holes with a drill to whatever you want


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

If a mouse can get it's head through a hole it can get it's whole body through.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

I use Z angle and drill 3/8 holes in the top and side of the angle across the whole entrance. The Z leg has two small holes for mounting.

It is like this but modified to go all the way across.

http://i697.photobucket.com/albums/vv333/acebird1/Bee Hive/Warmspell004.jpg


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## Sticky Bear (Mar 15, 2012)

I picked up corner bead from home depot pre drilled and was able to get a guard from each angle.


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## merince (Jul 19, 2011)

I usually use 1/4" fence and staple it. Might try the corner bead ideas this year, though.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

You can quickly alter a standard entrance reducer by driving small nails upright in the opening. I space them at about 5/16 - 3/8" centers. You may have to nip to length with side cutters.


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

Frank and others,
1/4" hardware cloth doesn't hinder bees at all.... well... drones, but they should be kicked out by now here.


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

Thanks Mr B.


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

You can enlarge some of the the holes in 1/4" very easily with a nail set or other tapered tool - cartridge casing FE. But a wooden reducer works.


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## philip.devos (Aug 10, 2013)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> One option I read in a previous thread was to buy some inexpensive metal drywall corner bead like this:
> http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
> 
> Enlarge the holes with a drill to whatever you want


Great idea! Nice price!


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## NewJoe (Jul 1, 2012)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> One option I read in a previous thread was to buy some inexpensive metal drywall corner bead like this:
> http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
> 
> Enlarge the holes with a drill to whatever you want


I had not thought of these corner beads...I have been bending flashing and drilling holes....These drywall beads are perfect!
Thanks for the idea!


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

I'm heading to HomeDepot right now to grab a piece of corner bead. I'll enlarge the holes to 3/8" and use a shorter unaltered piece to reduce that.


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## frankthomas (Aug 2, 2012)

So I bought that corner bead, cut a couple pieces to size and drilled 3/8" holes. But I am a little concerned how sharp the edges are. I cleaned up the burrs but a little concerned that the edges could still injure the bees. Any thoughts?


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Not a chance but they could cut you.


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## NewJoe (Jul 1, 2012)

frankthomas said:


> So I bought that corner bead, cut a couple pieces to size and drilled 3/8" holes. But I am a little concerned how sharp the edges are. I cleaned up the burrs but a little concerned that the edges could still injure the bees. Any thoughts?


I have tried to drill the corner beads out to 3/8"....but I can't get a good clean hole in the thin metal.

Anyone have any suggestions of how to get the holes to drill cleanly?


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Clamp the corner bead between two pieces of wood. Drill holes thru both the wood and metal. Avoid the existing holes.


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## Sticky Bear (Mar 15, 2012)

I posted a picture above of corner bead that has all the holes predrilled, bought it at Home Depot. Check around for other suppliers even take a picture and show them what you are looking for, maybe they can order it.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

So many over the top mouse guards...

Lose the wooden reducer part. Cut the 1/2" hardware cloth into 4" strip...as long as your bottom entrance. Fold into wedge the long way and insert. Done.

I've used them a long time and have seen no issues...isn't 40 years long enough to know?


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Michael, do you use 3/8 or 3/4 front entrance?


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Two sizes...3/4 and 7/8. Works on both.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

I keep 3/8" gap year around and have had mice get in by slightly chewing the bottom of the hive body, which measured about 1/2" high. Perhaps because they had no restriction side to side they elongated to get in. With 1/2 wire restriction, I guess that could be the difference.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

I suspect the key to Michael Palmer's method is that the 1/2" wire is folded into a "V". That has the effect of making the 1/2" holes smaller, because the holes are no longer vertical and there are two levels of wire that a mouse has to deal with..


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

NewJoe said:


> I have tried to drill the corner beads out to 3/8"....but I can't get a good clean hole in the thin metal.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions of how to get the holes to drill cleanly?


The best way to get a clean hole in thin metal is punch it. The second best way is to drill a series of increasing sized holes a little at a time. The simple way to do that is to buy a step drill. Most electricians have one as a friend. For what you are doing I would look for a cheap one at Harbor Freight.


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## capt44 (Jun 22, 2011)

I use 1/2 inch hardware cloth.
I cut them 4 meshes wide by however long I need them.
I go up 1 mesh and bend it in an L shape.
It fits right in the mouth and I staple it in place.
I have not had a mouse in my hives.
I've found the 3/8" holes make it hard for the bees to enter.


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## max2 (Dec 24, 2009)

How would this sytem work - with 10 mm holes - big enough for the bees, to small for any mouse.
http://www.qualitybeekeepingsupplies.com.au/index.php/catalogue-2/47-tools
( this is an entrance closer - holes are to small for your pupose)


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

NewJoe said:


> I have tried to drill the corner beads out to 3/8"....but I can't get a good clean hole in the thin metal.
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions of how to get the holes to drill cleanly?


Top quality bit and a backing board. Get something that drills aluminum or brass well and you have found the ticket.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

As Ace said, a step bit works well. Since it doesn't have spiraling flutes, it won't grab the metal and pull it towards you.


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