# Determined in JC



## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

Welcome, I believe you have found that in beesource. some great members here, willing to share their experiences and knowledge.


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## Oldtimer (Jul 4, 2010)

If a hive has a major varroa problem it is not a good idea to combine it with another hive.

However now that it's done, maybe the best thing you could do is something to remove the mites. Could I suggest Apivar strips as they are reliable, work at any time of the year, and are not disruptive to the bees.


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## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

If you've got a varroa problem now (and you do if you had a varroa problem earlier and haven't treated yet) in addition to Apivar strips, you can also consider doing a round of oxalic acid, either dribble or vaporization.

Damage done in late August and September to your winter bees in the varroa-hive can't be undone, but if you've got enough bees that can manage to get to spring an OA treatment is just the thing to give them their best shot. Since it only kill phoretic mites - and by now they are all phoretic as brooding should be paused, you have an excellent chance of reducing the mite numbers so low they will give the early rounds of brood an almost mite-free start as during the winter bees don't get about enough to get re-infected. Strong, never-parasitized spring brood is a remarkable thing and gets your hive-year off to really great start. But that great start begins, now.

If your bees have just been scraping by because of varroa predation, you will be astounded at the difference once you get the mites under control. 

How much does you hive weigh? Four medium boxes of 10-frames is about the equivalent of 26 deep frames so it's a good size if it is mostly well-filled cells. I'm north of you (north of Albany, NY and a minimum of 110-120 lbs what we need, but I find much heavier hives do even better, so I shoot for a number north of 150 lbs. You will need less having a more temperate climate. 

Notwithstanding my ample hive weight, I make sure to put a feeding rim in place (with an upper entrance), just in case. I also use quilt boxes and insulation to tip the odds in favor of my bees as much as possible. And I've had excellent results, so far. Some of these hings may be useful to you, too.

There's lots of help and support here on Beesource, so, welcome! I am originally a South Jersey girl, myself (Brigantine Island, eons ago.)

Enjambres


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## Westhill (Jul 26, 2012)

Welcome to Beesource! I'm on Long Island, and there are lots of other urban/suburban folks on here.

I agree with those who say that once you get the varroa under control, your hives will have a much better chance. I am new this year but learned that you can't rely on visual inspection or mite drop boards to know whether to treat. I never saw a single mite in, on, under, or around my bees or my hive this year but I treated anyway in September. HOLY MOLY LOOK AT ALL THE MITES THAT FELL OFF! It was a shocker. I used MAQS so the drop continued for a couple of weeks as new bees hatched out. I learned from this and will treat regularly from now on.


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## Oldtimer (Jul 4, 2010)

Useful post Westhill. So many people ask why their hive died and from what they describe it sounds like mites. But they say they KNOW it wasn't mites because they didn't see any. Sad part being if they are not prepared to consider the possibility or do anything about it they are likely do the same things, and get the same results, next time around.

Some people do this several years running, then give up and walk away from the hobby. A little education would have been better.


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## AmericasBeekeeper (Jan 24, 2010)

Welcome!


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## Paige (Dec 3, 2015)

Thanks all for the welcome! Just checking back in after loosing two of three hives early in the winter. Our remaining hive is small but has 4 frames of new brood. I noticed verroa on the sticky bottom board throughout the winter and have been reading about mortality rates when treating for verroa and worry that doing so now will reduce the hive further. Even so, I know NOT treating means certain hive death, so I'm planning on using Hop Guard based on results from Scientific Beekeeping trials. I wonder if anyone else has experience with it, or has recommendations specific to early spring management? I know I've already screwed up by not treating much earlier. 

Thanks again! Paige


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