# Question about DIY bottom boards



## ChuckReburn (Dec 17, 2013)

The edge of the bottom board holds ALL of the weight of the hive.

We build a very simple bottom board. Cedar (and when I can get them used) fence pickets, glued to make a deck. Bottom gets stapled to a couple of skids a trim piece gets stapled on top around the perimeter to give appropriate spacing. Weight simply pushes all of the components together harder.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

I will take a shot at this. I made mine with out a dado blade by just making multiple passes on my table saw untill the gap was big enough to slide on a piece of plywood. I don't see why you couldn't just put a 3/8 th inch shim on top of a peice of plywood and just staple/nail it to it. I have made traps with just boards with other boards covering the cracks on bottom in this manner and would not be afraid to use it on a hive. It will almost all work in my opinion. You may have to do it in a way that helps support from warping though I have some plywood warp with a bottom board made by the plans and it doesn't seem to affect the hive.
Good luck
gww


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## LittleTreeGuy (Aug 8, 2016)

Yea, I understand that the edge is what holds the weight. I guess my main question is, is it okay to stand a 1x2 (or maybe a slightly ripped down 1x2) on its edge as the edge around the bottom (the same demensions as the hive bodies) and then just have the plywood nailed and glued around the edges inside of this "frame"?


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## Steve in PA (Jan 26, 2015)

I've made everything except my frames and I don't have a dado. None of it is complicated. Don't ever think it.


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## LittleTreeGuy (Aug 8, 2016)

Steve in PA said:


> I've made everything except my frames and I don't have a dado. None of it is complicated. Don't ever think it.


I guess I can try it. If it warps or breaks, try something else. LOL


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## bobbybee (Sep 8, 2014)

that's all i do. It will work out fine. Once the bee propolise where the butt joint is, you won't be able to tell if it's a butt joint or a dado cut.


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## Davacoles (Jun 30, 2013)

Just use 2x4s and plywood. I made these instructions awhile ago, but never qc'ed them, so no promises.


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## Riverderwent (May 23, 2013)

Used cedar (not treated wood) pickets instead of plywood.


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## Jim_in_PA (May 17, 2016)

I don't use the dado method. I cut the plywood for the bottom board "to size" and laminate 3/4" PVC strips around the bottom perimeter to eliminate a wood to stand (and moisture) touch and then use 3/4" square stock on top to support the boxes. While the plywood edges are "exposed", multiple coats of exterior grade paint seal things up reasonably well.


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## PAHunter62 (Jan 26, 2011)

I made mine using these plans. No dado required, quick, simple:

http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/bottomboard/bottomboard.htm

PAHunter62


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## LittleTreeGuy (Aug 8, 2016)

Very cool PAHunter... while I was sitting looking at these pictures, I had an idea. Hopefully I'll be able to get some pictures up soon.


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## DavidZ (Apr 9, 2016)

bottom boards are quick and easy to make.
just rip some 3/4inch strips and cut to size, secure, the paint.
no need for fancy work.


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## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

everything above will work. if I were in your shoes I personally would make a few passes and take out the wood with a chisel 3/4 wide. little more work but doable. 
I don't like having plywood edge exposed if possible. I made up a bunch this year with that waterproof osb. the name escapes me. whatever design you do don't think about the downward pressure. thing about the torsion forces. in the dado design the bottom board stucturaly stops the pine from bending and deforming. I just put some in use on top of pallets and they were uneven due to the ground. I was able to just add sticks at one corner and it did not flex. 
as for your boxes...if you are going to use any joint except box I'd rethink it. plenty here say using a halflap type is fine but I had two supers fail after just one year. I used titebond 3 and ring shank nails. I have a habit of prying at the corners. I'm sticking with buying boxes and assembling them myself.


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## Jim_in_PA (May 17, 2016)

As GWW mentioned, if you want to build the bottom boards using the dado method, you don't need a dado blade for your table saw to make the grooves...multiple passes with the normal blade followed by a little cleanup with a sharp chisel will do the job, especially for small jobs like this. Be sure to use a push block for safety while doing the cuts, of course.

I use a Euro sliding table saw and don't use a dado blade for anything.


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## LittleTreeGuy (Aug 8, 2016)

I am wondering if I can do it without the dado method or without the "sandwiching" method. My hives will be on a hive stand made from treated 2x6's. I was thinking of using a 1x2 or something similar, and assembling it in a fashion like shown below. Where I would glue and run staples from the outside through the 1x2 and into the plywood floor. I would maintain the common bee space above the plywood, and underneath wouldn't really matter. It would be well primed and painted.


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## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

LittleTreeGuy said:


> I am wondering if I can do it without the dado method or without the "sandwiching" method. My hives will be on a hive stand made from treated 2x6's. I was thinking of using a 1x2 or something similar, and assembling it in a fashion like shown below. Where I would glue and run staples from the outside through the 1x2 and into the plywood floor. I would maintain the common bee space above the plywood, and underneath wouldn't really matter. It would be well primed and painted.
> 
> View attachment 28147


it won't last long. you have all winter you should try and expand your woodworking ability which will save you big time. If you are stuck on this design I'd recommend adding a 3/8x1" piece of wood all along the upper 3 sides. glue and screw down through the plywood and into the the boards on the side. then repeat it on the bottom.. this will make it more stiff. make sure you cut and install the grain running vertically. 
if your stands are perfectly level your design might work but the bottom board is one thing that we never have extras of so I make sure mine are bulletproof. having one disintegrate in the middle of an inspection is not my idea of fun. 
another idea would be to use two 3/4 layers of ply screwed and glued together with just 3/8 wood on the top. this would be stiff enough. again I'd try for the dado's or maybe find someone with a setup that can run some 1x through making the dado and you can go home and cut it to size.


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## sakhoney (Apr 3, 2016)

If your design is not set in stone - here's some of the ez st to build
See photos


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## larryh (Jul 28, 2014)

Like above, I use real decay resistant wood, not plywood, and just do the sandwich method. It's easy and it will last.
To answer your question, yes you can just glue and nail (screw)1x2 to the edge of the plywood. It's not an ideal BB, but the plywood is the problem, not the lack of dado.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

I use the 1/2" LP glued together (composite) chip boards.
They are use for the roof siding 4'x8'. On the flip side it is a
migratory cover or a bottom board. Assembled just like Sak but use the
black self tapping screws to hold the wood strips in place. No glue or anything else is needed.
When I ran out of bottom board for an emergency split I just use the migratory cover from one of the hives to
turn it into one. It is so simple that I don't even give it a second thought. No hive sagging so for. After a few coat of paint and waterproofing, it is good to go and will last a few seasons or more.
Our neighbor use them to cover the bare ground in the alley to walk on. One 4'x8' I use on the ground to test out its weather standing ability. It is now in the 2nd year and everything is still holding but a bit weathered out on top.
Right now is a good time to make some as our early Autumn weather is just perfect. One out of many is in progress now!



Painted and waterproof composite LP board:


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## Nordak (Jun 17, 2016)

sakhoney said:


> If your design is not set in stone - here's some of the ez st to build
> See photos
> 
> View attachment 28158
> ...


Nice. I've used the sandwich method with ply, but this looks like it would last nearly a lifetime. Thanks for sharing, sak. I'm guessing you make telescoping covers similar to this?


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## sakhoney (Apr 3, 2016)

Yes - but before nailing on the 3/4 legs on the other side I install a sheet of flashing the length of the top, Keeps out the SE Texas rains - and keeps the bees dry in the winter. and leave off the 3/8 strips from the tops. Don't make them telescopic though - these - just stick a couple of box nails in them and there good.
here's a couple more photos of stuff ready for splits. As you can see - I'm not making these 1 or 2 at a time but 100's
I'll have some of these next month ready for sale - treated tops & bottoms - wax dipped boxes
Also look at the pallet of 10 framers - see the stack of wood to the roof - these are deep super blanks waiting to be cut with the box beast


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

Cool cool cool, Sak!
How do you get the stack of wood so high?
Must be a very tall forklift.


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## larryh (Jul 28, 2014)

sakhoney said:


> I install a sheet of flashing the length of the top....
> - treated tops...


What kind of treatment? Just curious because most PT lumber is highly corrosive to metals.


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## sakhoney (Apr 3, 2016)

Forklift - Thomas 175 Hi lift skid steer. 
Larryh - On the PT wood - I also wax dip everything - I guess this seals off the PT for the tops - I just use roof flashing - what ever the big box store has on the shelf


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

How about using the mylar sheets for the roofing cover? 
They are waterproof too. Under the hot sun not sure how long they
will last. I wonder if the mylar is UV resistant too?


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## kaizen (Mar 20, 2015)

beepro said:


> I use the 1/2" LP glued together (composite) chip boards.
> They are use for the roof siding 4'x8'. On the flip side it is a
> migratory cover or a bottom board. Assembled just like Sak but use the
> black self tapping screws to hold the wood strips in place. No glue or anything else is needed.
> ...


what am I missing? how do you use the bottom board shown as a migratory cover? is the cover just flat with no overhang?


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## Nordak (Jun 17, 2016)

sakhoney said:


> Don't make them telescopic though


Doh, yeah, meant migratory. That's some solid equipment. Great work!


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

Yes, the cover is flat.
The 2 overhangs are screw in at the front and back on the flat LP composite chip board.
Lay it on its feet and put 3 wood strips on top to make the bottom board. I like the
LP board for its strength to not sag. The 5/8" thick is better and a bit expensive too than the 1/2".


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## justbee01 (Jan 5, 2017)

I bought a bunch of used equipment from some local commercial keepers and they were all the design sakhoney showed, some with plywood some with boards. Boards definitely look like they will last longer but both designs were pretty old and well worn and still living up to the task. I've copied the design to build a few new ones and it is easy with stock lumber. I'm not 100% sure why the dado method is so popular, maybe someone knows?


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## LittleTreeGuy (Aug 8, 2016)

my guess is the dado just made a cleaner look and essentially sealed the ends of the wood that made the bottom board. 

Since my first questions about this, I bought myself a router, and I figure I'll use the dado's now for these reasons.


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## JConnolly (Feb 21, 2015)

Here is my bottom board design. I use a screened bottom board. Its super simple and fast to make and can be made using a table saw or a compound miter chop saw. If you didn't have power tools you could even make it with hand tools. The only special tool is a pocket hole jig, which is so useful you should get one anyways. If you aren't familiar with pocket screws there are thousands of tutorials on Youtube.

You don't need a dado blade for this bottom board, but if you are serious about making your own bee boxes then you should invest in a good quality dado blade set so you can make finger joints, or a router (I make my finger joints with a router and finger joint jig)

First I construct a frame using pocket screws. The frame is the hive body width and is two inches longer than the hive box. If you don't want to use a screened board you can put a panel in the frame. The frame uses 3/4" boards that are 2" wide for sides and back and 4" wide front board.








Next I construct base runners from 2x4s. I rip mine down to 3", but you could use full size 2x4s and not make the rip cut. I cut a 45° angle on the end for a landing board. If you use a screened board you can cut the grooves for an oil board by making two passes with a regular table saw blade, or you can attach 3/4 x 3/4 cleats to make a slide for the oil board. If you aren't using a screen then you don't need the groove.








The runners attach to the sides of the pocket screw frame using a nail and glue, pocket screws down. Put the 4" wide end of the frame to the front. I attach a landing board to the front 45° ends of the runners with nails and glue.








The landing board is beveled on the top edge at 45°. You need to hand plane or sand to be flush. Be careful of nail placement when nailing so that you won't hit nails with your hand plane blade.








Last, I attach 3/4 x 3/4" spacers to the top of the pocket screw frame to space the hive body up, and paint. After painting I staple #8 hardware cloth over the opening for my screened bottom.


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## aldenmiller (Mar 21, 2016)

LittleTreeGuy said:


> I am wondering if I can do it without the dado method or without the "sandwiching" method. My hives will be on a hive stand made from treated 2x6's. I was thinking of using a 1x2 or something similar, and assembling it in a fashion like shown below. Where I would glue and run staples from the outside through the 1x2 and into the plywood floor. I would maintain the common bee space above the plywood, and underneath wouldn't really matter. It would be well primed and painted.
> 
> View attachment 28147


I see from reading the rest of this thread that you have purchased a router so you are going to make dadoes. Also I see that many woodworkers and beekeepers have different ways and opinions on how to do something. To throw in my opinion your design will work just fine if you have a tight gap free fit and you use something like titebond III that can stand getting wet. There is plenty of long grain on the edges of the plywood that would allow for a good glue joint between the edge boards. The weight of the hives would be on the edges, the plywood would just help hold the shape of the bottom board once glued together. Using a dado will provide a little more glue surface on the top and bottom of the glue joint and provide some mechanical support too. You could fake a dado with just the tablesaw by ripping your 1 by material to 1/2" width and then glue 1/4" pieces above and below the plywood.

In the end though I applaud your decision to purchase a router. I use any excuse I can to buy new tools. 

-Alden


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