# question on glue for langstroth bodies



## bwisniewski (Jun 25, 2012)

Hello: Im a construction teacher/bee keeper up in Canada and interior glue will work but will dissolve once it gets wet for a while. If you protect the outside joints you may not have a problem. Titebond III is the way to go for best glue you can use. Good luck. Ben


----------



## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

Titebond II or III and 2" staples.


----------



## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

First, as bski said you sould be fine as long as it is sealed from the elements.
Second, get your eye presription checked. lol
Titebond II or III exterior is the way to go.


----------



## windfall (Dec 8, 2010)

Paint will help, but I would just make sure you back up the joinery with nails in both directions(on each corner)...it will be fine even when/if the glue lets go.


----------



## mmiller (Jun 17, 2010)

EastSideBuzz said:


> Titebond II or III and 2" staples.


Exactly!


----------



## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

bwisniewski said:


> interior glue will work but will dissolve once it gets wet for a while.


What about "Elmers Interior And Exterior" wood glue?


----------



## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

I make my own boxes with rabbet joints, and I glue and cross-nail the joints.


----------



## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Any glue will hold better than no glue, and most people us no glue... use the exterior next time, and don't worry about this time...


----------



## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

Prior to WWII the only option for glue was hide glue, and it's useless when it gets wet. Cross nail and all will be well -- if you are a belt and suspenders type, use drywall screws instead (but pre-drill!).

Titebond III is the best, but any glue that does not melt when wet will work (meaning carpenter's glue). Only thing that would be a real problem is white glue. I use that to glue wine bottle labels on since they come off after a couple minutes in hot water.

Peter


----------



## WilliamsHoneyBees (Feb 17, 2010)

I use titebond III on everything and screws on all my boxes. It slows me down when I'm building but it makes a box that won't come apart!


----------



## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

westernbeekeeper said:


> What about "Elmers Interior And Exterior" wood glue?


Exterior glue can be used for internal use. but not the other way around. Elmers adds the additional internal to the description for the abundant population that cannot seem to figure this out on their own.


----------



## mac (May 1, 2005)

Have used Elmers carpenter glue ( interior) on all my boxes well painted and never had a box come apart in 12 years also have some boxes I never glued and they haven't come apart in 12 years. Had some glued frames left out in the rain and they did come apart. Use what ya got.


----------



## Joel (Mar 3, 2005)

We use Titebond and 2" coated screws.


----------



## throrope (Dec 18, 2008)

The most I'd do now is send three 2" self tapping deck screws in each corner, two one way, one the other. They'll never work themselves out and the other nails will do the rest. I doubt you'll even need that.


----------



## Delta (Jan 23, 2013)

I like to go overboard 2" galvanized screws in each finger of joints both side + titebond III. I also drilled and countersunk all the screws. Takes for ever on each box but it looks good


----------



## Jonathan4Bees (Jan 29, 2012)

i also use titebond III and i use 2" exterior decking screws on every finger


----------



## notaclue (Jun 30, 2005)

Gorilla Glue (a little dab will do ya) and nails or screws.


----------



## KPeacock (Jan 29, 2013)

I've used tome titebolnd II, titebond III, and gorilla glue. None of mine have any time outside in the weather yet, but as far as glues go, I don't care for how runny the Titebond III is. the II was easier to work with. 

My overall preference is for the gorilla glue. I like the expansive nature of it.


----------



## tommysnare (Jan 30, 2013)

i never know what to use soo i shoot a staple in each finger joint as well as a brad nail. all on both sides. i also use elmers and titebond II and III. then i finish up the corners with that drywall cornering metal which is screwed in with redhead coated screws. i cant seem to keep bees but man those boxes are rock solid !!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## tommysnare (Jan 30, 2013)

basically what im saying saying dont worry soo much about it. love what ur doing and thanks again for adding to the population of bes  (us titebond II or III though)


----------



## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

tommysnare said:


> i cant seem to keep bees but man those boxes are rock solid !!!!!!!!!!!


Just buy more bee's for those solid boxes. Cant let all that work go to waste.


----------



## tommysnare (Jan 30, 2013)

hahaha i was just bein a dork  
has any of you used plywood for heve bodies or supers ? any thoughts on doing so ?


----------



## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>has any of you used plywood for heve bodies or supers ? any thoughts on doing so ? 

It used to be more expensive (may not be true anymore). It's heavier. I don't think it lasts as well. I used it when I had free scraps available. It makes nice lids and bottoms...


----------



## tommysnare (Jan 30, 2013)

Michael Bush said:


> >has any of you used plywood for heve bodies or supers ? any thoughts on doing so ?
> 
> It used to be more expensive (may not be true anymore). It's heavier. I don't think it lasts as well. I used it when I had free scraps available. It makes nice lids and bottoms...


yeah it seems that it may be less expensive now. we were lumber shopping yesterday and i about wanted leave the place crying. the weight thing may be a serious issue though. im in my second and a half year ... first serious year and have some nucs coming. ive built few TBH's and am going with some langs as well. the price for solid board is crazy. we live in a very rural area soo the rices at our local woods is just ridiculous. we went into wichita to buy good woodshop equipment and went into lowes,h.depot and menards and its just crazy. 

where do all of you guys shop for lumber ? what type of place can u get the good prices ?


----------



## rweakley (Jul 2, 2004)

Save some $$ and use Titebond II instead of Titebond III. In titebond's own testing the difference had something to do with how long the pieces would stay together while boiling. ???? Personally I don't boil my hivebodies. I guess if you are doing the wax dipping that's a different story ,but for painted boxes why bother.


----------



## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Mostly I buy knocked down hives and bottom boards. Mostly I build my own covers out of 1/2" CDX. The best place to shop for lumber for hives, is the dumpster at the local construction site... with their permission of course.


----------

