# 9 frames in 10 frame super - pros vs cons



## phyber (Apr 14, 2015)

My understanding is that people use 9 frame supers to get a bigger honey yield per frame. The bees don't care how tall the honey comb is as opposed to brood frame that has to be a certain depth. 

Burr comb can happen in a 10 frame setup as well. You may just have to maintain it a bit until they draw out thick 9 frame supers.


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## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

When using 9 frames in a 10 frame box start with drawn comb, or with 10 frames when 9 frames are completely drawn then remove one and space the frames out equally. A 9 frame spacer can be used. the bees will draw the comb out to meat the available space. You must increase the spacing Before the honey/nectar is caped.


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## ToeOfDog (Sep 25, 2013)

We are talking a 14.75" ID box. I run 9 frames in a honey super and 11 frames in the hive body. The theory is the bees pull the comb wider than the top bar making it easier to decap. You can buy Stroller frame rests that are installed in the honey supers. This will automatically space your frames.
http://www.gabees.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=298&osCsid=f8a3fb71a61d9c6fec9479be9dea3dce

Who cares about bridge comb, etc. Just pull the box up and if the bottom of the comb is capped, extract it. I see no downside. 

Natural honey comb is about 1.5" on center so its comb is about .25" thicker than brood comb. The above will give you about 1.6 to 1.7" on center.


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## FlowerPlanter (Aug 3, 2011)

After the frames are drawn it is all pros IMO.

It makes fatter frames that are easily uncapped with a bread knife, and there is one less to uncap per box.
It may deter the queen from laying in the super if the cells are too deep.


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

I put 9 frames in 10-frame boxes. Y? I'm trying to transition to using follower boards. Y? Ever get into a hive that has a fat rim of honey on each brood frame because they're feeling a bit cramped and had to store it all somewhere? After getting into a ten frame and finding that the mess makes it where you can simply not get a frame out without rolling bees you'll start thinking about a better way and it already has been invented...follower boards. 
Forget about them dumb 9-frame racks. The make it where you are pinned and can't slide frames to gain space.

No bee hive is perfect so plan on some skinny combs that need to be de-capped with a comb. Get what you take and take what you get.


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## Barhopper (Mar 5, 2015)

Lots easier to uncap is why I do it. I don't know about volume of 10 versus 9 but anytime I don't have to use a capping scratcher/pick it's a positive.


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## b2bnz (Apr 5, 2009)

The best way to get the correct spacing of 9 frames in a 10 frame honey super, and not using a 9 frame guide or metal spacer pieces, is to use drawing pins/thumb tacks, 4 to a frame, positioned on the shoulders of the side bars. This adds just sufficient additional width to each frame to make it perfect and a lot cheaper than other methods.


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## Colobee (May 15, 2014)

Pros- much easier to uncap, fewer frames overall. Con - more honey mixed in with the cappings. ~'Same amount of honey, either way.

I run all 9's in a 10 frame box, unless it's new - then 10's. I used to run some 8's - that was borderline absurd.

I made a spacer board - I nailed a couple metal 9 frame spacers to a 6" x inside super width board - easier than installing & working around spacers in every super - the bees gunk them up with propolis over time. Also keeps the boxes "flexible" - for 10 frame brood OR honey supers.


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## Dave A. (Mar 13, 2015)

I was reading someplace recently about something very similar -- and the dower was -- a traffic jam occurs in the hive where the boxes join. Since the frames are not directly over each other, the travel lanes take two 90 deg turns in a very short space.

I think it might have been one of Walt's POVs - but don't hold me to that.

Found it -- http://www.beesource.com/point-of-view/walt-wright/nine-frame-brood-chamber-never/


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

Dave A. said:


> I was reading someplace recently about something very similar -- and the dower was -- a traffic jam occurs in the hive where the boxes join. Since the frames are not directly over each other, the travel lanes take two 90 deg turns in a very short space.
> 
> I think it might have been one of Walt's POVs - but don't hold me to that.
> 
> Found it -- http://www.beesource.com/point-of-view/walt-wright/nine-frame-brood-chamber-never/


Good post! 
I have noticed that I had a couple hives with ten frame on the bottom deep, 9 on top and quickly realized they can't breath. A hive like that will beard a lot and let you know something isn't quite right or at least mine were.
As soon as I took a frame out of the bottom and lined them all up (top to bottom) they seemed to be happier.


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## photobiker (Mar 23, 2015)

I'm going to maybe show my lack of experience but, here we go. 
The Walt writeup was informative regarding the miss alignment. I am assuming we are talking about the supers we will be removing for our honey not their honey supers. If that is the case wouldn't this be a good reason to provide an upper entrance so the bees don't have to negotiate the offsets.


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