# Cutting handles in hive bodies with a dado blade and table saw



## Vince (Jun 22, 2014)

I finished a project this after noon, cutting handles into some nuc boxes that came without or did not have them on all 4 sides. I made a video of the process. I hope is helps others.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvHfd7UzWmE&list=UUxa84Xt4H1U1ScvgaeQaAnw

Vince


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

video is private


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## Vince (Jun 22, 2014)

Harley Craig said:


> video is private


Try the link again I just made sure it was public.

Vince


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

nice... do you have any trouble with them holding water since they aren't angled away like factory cuts


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## Vince (Jun 22, 2014)

Harley Craig said:


> nice... do you have any trouble with them holding water since they aren't angled away like factory cuts


I hadn't thought about that. We have been in a drought here in California, I forgot what water looks like. But seriously, we did get some rain last month and I did not notice any water puddling in the handles.

Vince


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## Harley Craig (Sep 18, 2012)

if you run into issues with that, look up Cleo Hogans hand hold jig. he makes em look like factory cuts with a hand held circular saw and a ramp jig.... it's pretty slick, but I'm lazy I just put on cleats LOL


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Harley Craig said:


> nice... do you have any trouble with them holding water since they aren't angled away like factory cuts


I make the same hand hold in almost the same way. I clamp one block directly on the fence to prevent kickback. I've never seen a problem with water puddling in the hand hold.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I cut mine pretty much the same way although I had been doing them prior to assembly.

Nice video. I appreciate you posting the link for us!


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Cutting the hand holds after assembly gives you something to hold onto.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

For those who use my method for cutting the commercial type hand hold, it is easy to cut them before or after assembly of the box. 

If cutting the hand holds before assembly, you need a work table to clamp the jig . If cutting after assembly, the box becomes the work table. All you need is the simple, small, jig which you can build in less than 30 minutes. 

I cut mine before assembly because i do a lot at a time, and don't always assemble the boxes until needed. When I assemble them, the hand hold is already cut.

Plans for my system is here on beesource, in the build it yourself library, as well as a link to my U-Tube video, which explains how to make the cut. Very fast, nice, clean, commercial looking hand holds, and SAFE. 

I send out approximately 10 requests each day for the jig plans to people who see the video on U-Tube. If anyone would like a copy of the plans, contact me at.... [email protected] and I will e-mail them to you. If you have a problem I will answer any questions for you.

Here is a link to the U-Tube Video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaWRjpJ5f0w

cchoganjr


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

Yeah, I don't know why I hadn't thought to cut the hand holds after assembly. I guess I was just stuck in a linear mode.....cut, assemble, paint. Next time, I'll cut them after the boxes are together. It looks easier that way. Live and learn!


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## JStephens (Jan 21, 2015)

We do ours the same with one exception.. The fence would be set at 2 3/4 for the first cut then place a scrap of 5/8 (plywood or something) next to the fence, then make a second cut. It makes a nice wide hand hold (more knucle room). The 5/8 allows overlap of the dado and it does not add a lot of time.


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## Vince (Jun 22, 2014)

JStephens said:


> We do ours the same with one exception.. The fence would be set at 2 3/4 for the first cut then place a scrap of 5/8 (plywood or something) next to the fence, then make a second cut. It makes a nice wide hand hold (more knucle room). The 5/8 allows overlap of the dado and it does not add a lot of time.


I like it, thanks for the tip.

Vince


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

JStephens said:


> We do ours the same with one exception.. The fence would be set at 2 3/4 for the first cut then place a scrap of 5/8 (plywood or something) next to the fence, then make a second cut. It makes a nice wide hand hold (more knucle room). The 5/8 allows overlap of the dado and it does not add a lot of time.


Hmmmm.....another good idea!


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## rmaxwell (Apr 23, 2014)

I cut hand holds with a radial arm saw. Seems to be quicker for me and more consistent. I'll try to attach a photo if I can.


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## Michael Palmer (Dec 29, 2006)

Michael Palmer said:


> I make the same hand hold in almost the same way. I clamp one block directly on the fence to prevent kickback.


Tried it your way Vince. I like it. Big improvement.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Nice video, waterfall noise was distracting (louder than the vacuum). You do nice video work, the inner cover video played after the handle one, very professional you must have been a teacher. I noticed the waterfall started again for the center holes, maybe it’s your background music?
I like the taking of the box off of the front rather than the back (I am going to do that) it will keep me from leaning over the blade.
I like the 5/8 shim idea, the narrow slot is why I do the Hogan jig afterwards. (keeps from cutting so much material with the skil saw and gives a flat top to the handle)
I cut all my pieces at the same step and have trouble cutting the hand holds last with the dato. I do a kirf cut through the center of all my boxes to do a divided deep and I always seem to have one side I end up cutting a hand hold on the wrong side.


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## flyin-lowe (May 15, 2014)

I do mine the same way except I don't use the blocks on my table. I just have pencil marks on my fence, I drop them down, push them forward then lift them up. I have never had the dado try to rip or pull the board out of my hands.


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## Jack Grimshaw (Feb 10, 2001)

Nice video Vince.
I use a sacrificial fence and have marks for side ,end and nuc and screw the blocks to the fence.
I would not use a shim! Last thing you want is a loose piece of wood near those spinning blades. Move your fence!!!


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## hex0rz (Jan 14, 2014)

Always more than one way to skin a cat:

Hive Handles using a drill press jig: http://youtu.be/jlM5yMuNetA


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## AkDan (Apr 13, 2012)

Good stuff! Did the dados came out good. Looking forward to the skilsaw jig


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## Denniston (Mar 19, 2015)

I spent all weekend racking my brain trying to figure out how to get the angle and sliding portions right so I could cut handles on my tablesaw. 

What I didn't do that I like on yours is the flat tops to the handle. Mine are cut on an angle and it seems to me like my fingers might slip off when the hive is full of honey. I've seen the jig that uses the skill saw and that seems to me like it would have the same issue, unless they tilted the shoe (I just figured that out as I was typing that. I wonder if I could cut my with my blade angled to give a flat hand hold). 

Any way, here's a picture of my jig. I used melamine board to make is slide well. It seemed to work pretty good. What I did is slide it in a bit, then raise the blade and bit, and so on. It was actually pretty quick.


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## JConnolly (Feb 21, 2015)

I made a router template from 1/4" hardboard for a 1 x 4 handle with a 1/2" arc on the bottom side. (Arc is approximate, I just traced a dinner plate to make the pattern). I secured a 1 x 3/4" strip of plywood to the edge to make a fence to position the template and scribed a centerline. I clamp it to the box and using the same router/collar/bit I use to cut the box joints, with the depth set to 5/16" I route the handles in. It takes about 30 seconds per handle, more time waiting on router to stop. The curved bottom will hopefully help any water drain away.


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## tazke (Mar 23, 2015)

After trying about 3 different jigs using a circular saw or router, I now make all my handles using a Craftsman 5/8" cove set for a Craftsman molding head set. It is blade set 9-3209, they are no longer manufactured but you can find them on ebay.

I cut them AFTER assembly, that way I can hang onto the box and its faster. I also put the fence on the left side of the blade, seems to work better.


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## DrRuss (Feb 8, 2015)

My method takes a little hand work, but is simple and quick. 

Set the dado in the table saw as high as I want the handle deep. Set the fence on what will be the bottom of the board with stop blocks clamped to the fence to keep the board from moving parallel to the blade. 

To actually cut the handle: turn the saw on, rest the bottom of the board against the fence and angle the board slowly down until it is flat on the saw (producing a flat upper ledge in the handle). Slowly lift the top side of the board up and slide it forward (producing the angled bottom facet of the handle). It takes a little practice to get the slope smooth but is quick and simple once you get the hang of.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

I do as Tazke does, use a cove blade on a molding head on my table saw. Here is another video starting with "OK".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2q5Hnogvqg


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## MT204 (May 12, 2011)

tazke said:


> After trying about 3 different jigs using a circular saw or router, I now make all my handles using a Craftsman 5/8" cove set for a Craftsman molding head set. It is blade set 9-3209, they are no longer manufactured but you can find them on ebay.
> 
> I cut them AFTER assembly, that way I can hang onto the box and its faster. I also put the fence on the left side of the blade, seems to work better.
> 
> View attachment 16912


The cutter head and cutters are still available new.
http://corobcutters.com/4458covemoldingknife-1.aspx


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## tazke (Mar 23, 2015)

MT204 said:


> The cutter head and cutters are still available new.
> http://corobcutters.com/4458covemoldingknife-1.aspx


I don't think the delta blades fit on a craftsman molding head. But if someone did need the complete set up the delta would be the way to go. Although I have read the arbor on some contractor style table saws it's not long enough for the delta head.


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