# Where's a good/cheap place to by feeder caps for migratory covers.



## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

I'm done with additional empty supers to put on to feed and going with migratory covers feeding through a 1 3/8" hole. Where do you get the plastic caps to place in the hole when not feeding?


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## beesohappy (Jun 3, 2009)

Just an idea! Could you use a knock out plug for abs pipe? The black real light thick wall pipe. The plugs are normally yellow or white ones.


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## fish_stix (May 17, 2009)

Go to a plumbing supply and ask for PVC test caps. You may have to redrill the holes to match up with a test cap but they're worth it. Long lasting, waterproof and cheeeeeeap! Sometimes you can find them at Home Depot but the plumbers and other beeks snatch them up soon as HD puts them on the shelves. Various sizes are available, I've only used the 2" and they work just fine if you use a 2" holesaw. The bee supplys that carry the feeder buckets used to carry these, no idea why they don't anymore.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Great ideas, thanks!!


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## camero7 (Sep 21, 2009)

http://www.caplugs.com/productdetails.aspx?id=1000021&itemno=CPT+SERIES


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## Fuzzy (Aug 4, 2005)

Charlie,

Any hardware store -- They are called drain stoppers. Sometimes they come with chains that can be screwed down so the stopper doesn't get lost .....

Fuzzy


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

I have a bunch of these laying around I use for cardboard nuc entrances so I'm going to use these to plug my feeder holes as well to keep it simple. I've been testing it with water and it doesn't leak at all. 16 cents each with free shipping is not bad.

https://www.mannlakeltd.com/mm5/mer...mannlake&Screen=SRCH&sType=1&Search=cap+plug+


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## fish_stix (May 17, 2009)

LOL. Those are exactly the same as PVC test caps!


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Wow, well hey, at least we know where to get them now!!!


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Charlie B said:


> I have a bunch of these laying around I use for cardboard nuc entrances so I'm going to use these to plug my feeder holes as well to keep it simple. I've been testing it with water and it doesn't leak at all. 16 cents each with free shipping is not bad.
> 
> https://www.mannlakeltd.com/mm5/mer...mannlake&Screen=SRCH&sType=1&Search=cap+plug+


I just ordered 50 caps for $8.00 along with boxes and frames from Mann Lake. Not bad!


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## Risky Beesness (Dec 29, 2010)

Charlie B said:


> I'm done with additional empty supers to put on to feed and going with migratory covers feeding through a 1 3/8" hole. Where do you get the plastic caps to place in the hole when not feeding?


What are you using to feed through the 1 3/8" holes?


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

I'm using a 2 gal bucket with holes in the lid, inverting over the 1 3/8 " hole on the top migratory cover. The bees climb through the hole and travel under the lip of the bucket lid to feed. I just place a brick on top of the inverted bucket to keep it from blowing off when the feeder is low.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

$.16 each AND free shipping and you call me cheap? What's that saying? "the pot calling the kettle black" ? Cheap cheap cheap...you sound like a flock of those birds across the street in Golden Gate Park.


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

look on randy olivers site. only takes a 3/16 hole and works the best of any system we have tried.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

adamant said:


> http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/424116487/4_Octagon_Junction_Box_Cover_Metal.html
> swing out of the way when feeing


I've tried those, they leak. The plastic caps Mann Lake carries works really well.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

adamant said:


> how are u feeding them?


Read my previous post (#12)


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

beeware10 said:


> look on randy olivers site. only takes a 3/16 hole and works the best of any system we have tried.


Where do you get the brass tubes?


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## tommyt (Aug 7, 2010)

Charlie B said:


> Where do you get the brass tubes?


They are used in Plumbing


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

yes they are used to insert into small plastic tubing to keep it from crushing when a nut is tightened. lowes and home depot carry them.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

The cost of brass and Cheap Charlie in the same thread is an oxymoron. Don't even go there.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

beeware10 said:


> yes they are used to insert into small plastic tubing to keep it from crushing when a nut is tightened. lowes and home depot carry them.


So you just drill a 1/8 inch hole in the cap and solider the tube onto the cap?


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

no its bigger than 1/8. you drill a 3/16 or 5/16 hole thru the middle of jar cap.I cant remember which. the brass insert has a flange that will be inside the jar. push the insert in the hole and solder. I used a propane torch. heat just enough to melt the solder. too much heat will hurt the seal around the outside. drill one hole thru your cover and double check the hole is clean.(no chips) turn upside and put the jar insert thru the hole. the bees will not plug the hole like they do with the small hole. If it is empty for awhile and they do plug it just push a small twig thru it. when done feeding the bees will plug the hole in the cover or just push a dab of beeswax in it. a little hard to find but I use 1/2 gallon mason jars. lasts good and very easy to check. even though there is one hole they will empty it just as fast as the big jar covers.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Great, thanks for the info. I'll give that a try. I'm always looking for better ways to do things.


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

we have been commercial for nearly 40 yrs and this is the best system we have used. back in the 70's kelley sold a hd plastic bag that held 1 frame. a big rubber ban held it in place then you filled the bag with syrup. we bore big holes in covers and used the covers with holes on 5 lb jars. we have bees in sc and use a rim and baggie to feed these. Its just hard to transport jars that far. the bags get thrown away so all we have to transport are the rims. we started out with entrance feeders and found them worthless. I think you will like this system. good luck


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## Stonefly7 (Nov 3, 2005)

Hey beeware, could you post a pic? Went to Randy Olivers site, and found nothing on feeding tubes. Tried a search on feeding and came up with nothing. Basically your drilling a hole in the bucket/jar lid and soldering on a flange and brass tube, is that correct? Then drilling a hole in your migratory cover and inserting, correct?

Kind regards


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

I m pretty sure it is on randys site but hard to find. sorry but cant do a picture. we will be going to home depot or lowes in a few days and Ill get a part number. you use a mason jar.(large mouth) the brass insert is one piece with a flange on one end. drill hole in cover. insert insert with the flange on the sealed side and solder. the insert is about 3/4 inch long so it just goes thru a migratory cover.


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

stonefly7 go to randys site and look up fat bees part 3. shows good pictures and worth a thousand words.


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## Scrapfe (Jul 25, 2008)

Charlie B said:


> ... going with migratory covers feeding through a 1 3/8" hole. Where do you get the plastic caps to place in the hole when not feeding?


How about using these covers. I am guessing that they can still be purchased less the junction box at electric supply houses (big box stores need not apply) or from electric contractors. One small screw for it to pivot on and one screw to keep it from pivoting and you're good to go. No looking for the plug either, it iremains screwed down over the hole in the migratory top.


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## Risky Beesness (Dec 29, 2010)

Charlie B said:


> I'm using a 2 gal bucket with holes in the lid, inverting over the 1 3/8 " hole on the top migratory cover. The bees climb through the hole and travel under the lip of the bucket lid to feed. I just place a brick on top of the inverted bucket to keep it from blowing off when the feeder is low.


OK, so the bucket is sitting directly on top of the migratory cover and all the holes in it's lid are centered over the 1 3/8" hole in the cover?

What type of 2 gal bucket are you using and does it leak around the rim where it might draw ants?


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Risky Beesness said:


> OK, so the bucket is sitting directly on top of the migratory cover and all the holes in it's lid are centered over the 1 3/8" hole in the cover? What type of 2 gal bucket are you using and does it leak around the rim where it might draw ants?


The holes are spread all over the bucket lid. The bees come up through the 1 3/8" hole in the top cover. The bucket lid has a rim on it that raises the lid surface up enough to where it enables the bees to crawl under the lid to feed everywhere the holes are. 

I'm using white 2 gal. pails bought new at Kelly Moore. They have a good seal that doesn't leak. I haven't yet used this system in spring and summer. I used it for fall and it worked pretty good so they're weren't to many ants around to test it.

Some of the flaws I see is that some of my plywood lids are not exactly flat. The top ply layer on the 3/4" ply is rough or a little wavy so there are gaps between the inverted bucket lid and the ply. I've tried resting the lid cover brick on top, (or bottom) of the bucket and that seems to help a little and also keeps the bucket from blowing off when it's empty.

Other flaws are that the bees plug up the little holes so your constantly sticking a push pin in the holes to clean them out. Syrup does leak out on the lid before the vacuum completely takes hold so you do have a concern about robbing, (or attempted robbing) and ants.


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## Risky Beesness (Dec 29, 2010)

OK, that makes sense now. The lip on the top of the lid creates the crawl space, and in theory, seals out other bees or insects. I have experienced the holes plugging as well. You would think that if they can eat through a candy plug, they can get to the syrup if they want it.


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

I know. It's just bizarre that they would plug up something that's feeding them. I've already had to throw away one lid it was so plugged up it wasn't worth my time to spend unplugging. I found some 1 gal mason jars on Amazon so I'm going to try the solder thing and see how that works.


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

I tried to find the flanged 1/8" tubes that Randy Oliver solders into his lids but can't find them. Anybody know what or where I should be looking?


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

They're at Home Depot hanging up in little plastic bags on the wall in the plumbing department. They're sleeves for plastic water lines.


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

Charlie B said:


> They're at Home Depot hanging up in little plastic bags on the wall in the plumbing department. They're sleeves for plastic water lines.



Thanks Charlie!


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## stangardener (Mar 8, 2005)

for those who have used the flanged 1/8" tube, do you think a drilled out .22 casing would work?


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

the 22 casings should work. next Im going to buy some small brass tubing and enlarge one end with a flanging tool and then cut off.
this should be inexpensive.


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## doc25 (Mar 9, 2007)

These are used for air line repairs in trucks also if you're still looking to find them.


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## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

http://scientificbeekeeping.com/fat-bees-part-3/


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

stangardener said:


> for those who have used the flanged 1/8" tube, do you think a drilled out .22 casing would work?


That should work if you keep the flange in tact. The flange helps maximize the solder connection.


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## REN (May 7, 2011)

I'm still using mason jars on top of the inner cover, but I see these 1 gallon tin cans (without the handles) on the migratory covers of most of the commercial hives that I see in the area, and there are a lot of commercial hives around. I've also seen the pvc caps on the hives when they aren't feeding. I'm getting tired of filling the mason jars already, so I've been thinking of trying this method out. Anyone know of a cheaper source for these cans?

Bob

http://www.yankeecontainers.com/PHP/site_menu.php?madeof=tin&type=can&astyle=rec


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

I don't know about the cans but I found these 1/2 gal. mason jars you don't have to fill nearly as often and they're heavy enough that they won't blow off when empty. Two bucks a piece at Ace.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2841638


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## Mtn. Bee (Nov 10, 2009)

I use a brick over the hole, doesn't get any simpler than that!
Also you stated in one of your post that you already use a brick to hold the buckets in place, so you already have them on site! 

odfrank: How is that for being cheap??


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Mtn. Bee said:


> odfrank: How is that for being cheap??


You've got nothing on Odfrank Mtn. Bee. He's so cheap he doesn't even feed his bees! He's to paranoid they will fill all the comb with syrup and swarm into my bait hives I've placed about 50 feet from his apiary.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Mtn. Bee said:


> I use a brick over the hole odfrank: How is that for being cheap??


Same here, gotta have those free bricks. Charlie is is non profit so he can squander good money on those fancy jars. I just use the quart jars my customers recycle to me.


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## Mtn. Bee (Nov 10, 2009)

That is exactly what I use: 2 recycled quart jars per hive and when not feeding cover holes with bricks!
Recently I made some cheap migratory covers out of OSB and drilled the two holes for the feeder jars. Then decided to use my scrap OSB and cut into rectangular strips that cover across the entire top and the 2 feeder holes, I attached it to the tops with 1 deck screw so I can swivel the strip like a airplane prop to open the feeder holes. Did this instead of brick b/c I was loading the hives (on 4 way pallets) on the truck and did not want to take a chance with a brick sliding over!


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

You two could be twins!


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## Keth Comollo (Nov 4, 2011)

Went to three hardware stores today and while they had the hose ferulles none were long enough to go through 3/4" Advantec covers that I have. Might have to drive 30 miles to Home Depot and see if they have anything longer. Really want to use this Oliver style feeder but am at the point of drilling full sized holes out of frustration. ARggghhh.


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

FYI Heres a good place to buy cap plugs:
http://www.mocap.com/thick-wide-flange-plug-cap.html#col3


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

I use the Mann Lake nuc plugs.
https://www.mannlakeltd.com/mm5/mer...mannlake&Screen=SRCH&sType=1&Search=cap+plug+


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

Keth Comollo said:


> Might have to drive 30 miles to Home Depot and see if they have anything longer. Really want to use this Oliver style feeder but am at the point of drilling full sized holes out of frustration. ARggghhh.


Check your local plumbing stores first since it's used for plumbing purposes. The ones I got from HD are 3/4" long so they work great. Don't forget your solder gun and solder. After your done, be careful not to put too much pressure on the tube by bumping or pulling sideways when you have it in the feeder hole in your cover.


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## Mtn. Bee (Nov 10, 2009)

I was thinking that an old piece of copper tubing would work as you could flare the end with a flaring tool then cut it to whatever length you want. I am not saying to go buy copper tube as it is too darn expensive, but I have quite a bit of good used tubing laying around to do 100's of these ends! Would also save that extra gas instead of driving further to home depot!

Oh Wow! You are right we are twins!!  

Maybe od and I could inventory each others packrat caches, what a great way to spend my vacation !!! Gotta Love it!


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## Aerindel (Apr 14, 2012)

I haven't used this for making feeders but I flare my own tubes all the time for other projects. For about $8 at Lowes you can buy a small coil of 1/4 OD soft copper tubing which will give you enough to make several dozen feeding tubes.

To flare the tubing stick the closed tips of a pair of needle nosed pliers into the end of the tube and gently twist back and forth while applying pressure until the tip of the copper pipe is flared out into a cone shape about 3/8" wide. 

Next you need to have sheet of thicker metal with a 1/4 inch hole drilled in it. Drop your tubing into the hole. The partially flared section will stop it from falling all the way through. Support the piece of metal (this could actually be your jar lid itself) So that the tubing hangs free and then use the ball side of a small ball peen hammer to gently expand your cone and flatten it out against your metal sheet...and your done. Flared tubing without the expense of a flaring tool. 

This only works well with soft copper tubing the stiff kind that comes in straight stick will crack when you try to do this. The soft kind will crack too if you try to make too large of a flare. You may have to practice a few times before you get the hang of it.


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