# 3 - Legged stool of swarm traps



## rwlaw (May 4, 2009)

Looks good to me, there’s a lot of things in there that I follow. Now just get the bees to read it and you’ll be in.


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## billabell (Apr 19, 2010)

Thanks very handy. What do you mean by Downwind? From what?


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## Fivej (Apr 4, 2016)

I would take it as downwind from the wind. In other words, opposite side of prevailing winds in your location. J


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## hankstump (Jul 30, 2014)

yes, opposite from the prevailing wind. 
This helps, I think, in several ways.
- the breeze doesn't washout and dilute the scent of the box.
- Its easier for bees to land and get into the box, either for scouting or when they move in.
- The eddy currents around the box will carry a stronger sent further down wind, hopefully letting more scouts finding your box. 

Phil


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## billabell (Apr 19, 2010)

Downwind-thanks good points.


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## hankstump (Jul 30, 2014)

I realized i posted the wrong version. Updated a bit based on input from all of you. I made it a bit more neutral based on the many different methods out there. Feel free to use it as you see fit.
View attachment 3 legged trap4 copy.pdf


Cheers, Phil in Fremont


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## billabell (Apr 19, 2010)

Thanks, a handy checklist.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

>essentials of swarm traps. comments welcomed.

Are you the Fremont guy that bought Beemax hives from me?

OK, here goes, you asked for it. 

LGO or S. C.. Definitely helpful but not essential. I catch a few a year in dead hives and junk un-baited.
30- 40 liter box....not essential, I catch lots in five frame nucs. 
Open space.....totally not essential. I fill all of mine full.
Frames with starter strips.... used them once and never again. They fell apart when moved and I believe in all worker comb 
Vents for moving....none of my bait hives have them. In a very hot climate might be more necessary. I close the disk, drive them for an hour or two to their new site and open them up. 
Entrance down wind. Nope also. good but not essential.
Caught one this year at my house in a wind tunnel area facing sideways to the wind. 
Old brood comb. VERY helpful but not essential. Bees have been moving into empty cavities for millions of years. 
Near active hives. Helpful but certainly not essential. (except that there must be hives near enough casting swarms to catch)
Height 4-5 feet. Few of mine are placed over 3' high. Tables, wall tops, decks. Height helpful but not essential.
Morning or Aft. sun, Noon shade. Nope again. I trap one on a full sun all day wall top that catches beauties ever year. 

Charlies just again this morning accused me of bragging on Beesource. So to make him correct my expertise is based on decades of trapping experience, 59 catches last year and 70 this year. OK Charlies....tell them all you know about this braggart.

This late swarm moved into a stack of frames that had the combs solar melted off them. No black comb, no lure, but lots of empty space.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>Charlies just again this morning accused me of bragging on Beesource. 

"It ain't braggin' if you done it"--Dizzy Dean


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## Charlie B (May 20, 2011)

I’m in a constant state of amazement at Oliver’s beekeeping prowess.


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## hankstump (Jul 30, 2014)

Indeed, Oliver, this is the Fremont guy that bought some old Beemax hives from you last year. They worked great for swarm traps. Thanks. 
As you point out, all of these things are not essential in total, however each one of these do improve your odds. It is all about fishing. And you sir, fish much more than most. The mere mortals amongst us certainly won't be prolific as your self. I felt pretty confident at 18 swarms last year. 

I think, and correct me if i'm wrong, if you leave out one of the 3 basic elements, you won't have very good results. But the more of these elements you include, the better your odds. Of course, bees don't read books, much less this post, and they will prove us all wrong when they can. My friend's plastic dinosaur surely had very few of these elements, nor did the pile of old tires that was chosen by a swarm, or the countless number of speaker boxes and garbage cans. However, if a more ideal choice was offered, I venture the bees would have chosen the more ideal option, as Thomas Seeley has shown. 

Its certainly is a fuzzy target as you have pointed out. But finding the fundamental recipe that give us the best chance at luring in a swarm is what I am trying to frame. 
Are there some elements that should be added? 

Phil in Fremont.


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## aran (May 20, 2015)

uggh!!! i put out boxes ( nuc boxes and old 10 frame singles) last 2 years with swarm commander and all old brood frames . I climbed up bloody trees to set them at 10 feet up. I also had bait hives on the wood pile behind the shed, on stands around my existing hives.
About 1.5-2miles from me is a guy with about 40hives by the looks of it from the road. I have 17 hives so there oughta be enough bees for a swarm or 3.

--> NOTHING i got absolutely nothing.


Ah well ill give it another shake this year i guess.


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## dudelt (Mar 18, 2013)

It is not science and there is no perfect way to catch swarms. I always leave a couple of empty hives with some old comb and a spray of swarm commander where I want a new hive. I am always hoping a swarm will move in. I got one each year for the last 2 years. I put it where I want it so I do not have to move it. I am a lazy taskmaster and I make the bees do all the work. If the bees want a nice home, guaranteed food and a great medical plan, they have to come to me. If not, they are on their own.


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