# 10 frame assembly jig



## east_stingray (Feb 8, 2005)

I just built a 10-frame assembly jig tonight and put together a box of frames with it. I can't believe I ever did it any other way. It was so quick, and they were all perfectly square. I want to reccomend to all beginners/intermediates/commercial people who don't have one... it's a MUST have! The plans are just a bit hard to read, but I'm so excited about it that I'm willing to build one for anyone who isn't very crafty in the shop.


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## Lew Best (Jan 8, 2005)

Did you use the plans from this site? Looked at it but haven't built one yet.

Lew


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## greenbeekeeping (Feb 13, 2003)

Hi there. I used one for the first time last year. I wish I would of had one sooner.


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## east_stingray (Feb 8, 2005)

Yeah, lew. The plans are a bit hard to understand, because a lot of the drawings don't have measurements on them, so you have to kind of interpolate which way some of the spacers sit in there.


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## The Honey House (May 10, 2000)

east_stingray,
Which spacers are you refering to?


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## east_stingray (Feb 8, 2005)

Especially the one labeled B. I just had to look at how the picture was oriented and assume that it was to scale. That worked ok, but I don't like to have to assume anything when I'm woodworking. The other problem that I had was that many of the spacers were very odd dimensions both ways! I had to rip one piece down all three directions to make the "C" spacers. What weird dimensions. Then again, I was making this out of scrap we had laying around.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

There is another 10 frame jig further down the discussion that is dirt simple to build and works great. 
http://www.beesource.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000425#000021


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## east_stingray (Feb 8, 2005)

Thanks ross. I feel like an idiot now for making the more complicated version. Although I must say that with that one picture I don't know if I could build one... there aren't any plans or descriptions of how it's built. Also, on mine I'm constantly afraid one of those springs is going to come off and kill someone in the next county.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I haven't used Ross's but it looks nice. I have one from Walter T. Kelly which is the kind with the springs. I can't believe how many years I build frames without one either.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

It isn't mine, but I built one and it works great. Need pictures, I'll post some of mine. Basicly, just notch the two long sides so a board can slide through with space left for the bar ends. It's glued and screwed at the corners. I waxed everything with Johnson's Paste Wax so glue won't stick to it.

www.myoldtools.com/feeder/framejig1.jpg
www.myoldtools.com/feeder/framejig2.jpg
www.myoldtools.com/feeder/framejig3.jpg


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## east_stingray (Feb 8, 2005)

That's so incredibly simple... and no springs to fight with. *sigh*


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Ross - thanks for the pictures. I wish I had seen this before. It will come in handy this spring... Simple is better!


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## wayacoyote (Nov 3, 2003)

I too made the one off of this site. While I accedentally cut some boards short which made it tricky to use, I was still pleased that I was really working faster. I would have to say that, now that I have a frame jig, assembling frames is my favorite chore.

I think I'll make one like Ross'


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## kamerrill (Sep 17, 2003)

Thanks for posting some better pictures Ross. 

I visited a local old timer's honey house and I spotted the jig hanging on the wall. Wicked simple, works great, and you can drop it hard and it still works!

Kurt

www.merrilland.net


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Credit to Kurt for posting this first. I just copied it.


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

I built the frame jig on the site this morning, it worked great. I thought I would resurrect this thread from last year in case anyone else is making up frames. THe jigs on here are really worth the time to make. My production of frames went up to 40 per hour (not counting foundation) and its really much much easier.

I made the more complicated one, using bungy cords instead of the springs. WOrks great!


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## Keith Benson (Feb 17, 2003)

David - 40/hour? Are you using a nail gun? If not I would reccomend one. You can do 10 frmaes in <5.0 mintes with a jig and a nail gun.

I love mine.

Keith


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## power napper (Apr 2, 2005)

I made one real cheap and dirty! Just some boards that fit tight around the ten assembled frames, to hold the end bars in place I use a piece of 3/4 or 1 inch styrofoam just a bit longer than the space between the end bars. Place the end bars in box, wedge them in place with the sheet of styrofoam, a lot easier than one frame at a time. Using the air nailer makes it a lot faster also.


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Keith
Yep, using a nail gun. Maybe I was a little faster than that. I did 100 frames this afternoon. Seems like I was out in the shop about 2 - 3 hours. 

Heck I thought 40 was good! Maybe it was 50 an hour. Load up the jig, brush glue on the top ends, add the top bars, hit them with the gun, flip the jig, brush on the glue, add the bottom bars, hit them with the gun. unload the jig.

what am i missing? the stapling takes about 30 seconds. Probably I am just lazy.


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## Bill Ruble (Jan 2, 2006)

I made one too, but could not read the print on the one with springs and so come up with my own. It works great and I love it. It is a little different than the one I saw here with the ends sliding in. Mine is lots the same, but the spacers are inside and I take them out when I turn over the jig to do the tops. It does hold the frames perfectly square also. Would hate to build one at a time.
And I use a pin gun to do the nailing so it is very fast.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I moved the pictures on mine.....
http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/framejig/


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## BerkeyDavid (Jan 29, 2004)

Thanks Ross, I was looking for them. Nice pics and simpler than the one on this site. What keeps the frames from sliding out when you flip it over to do the bottom?


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## Keith Benson (Feb 17, 2003)

David - I dunno - maybe I am just rushing to get done before my 2 year old wakes up from naptime so we can go play. 

I use a brad nailer and I think it goes faster than a stapler. If one misfires it is easier to deal with than if half of a staple comes out the side of a frame.

I origionally bought the set up for the stapler, but the narrow crown staples can screw up the bottom piece of the frame. They are just narrow enough that they have a hard time bridging the groove and there are splits. For me anyway. The medium crown staples that the beekeeping supply places use would be much better - but I cannot find one for less than some serious dollars. 

Either way, nail/staple guns are fun and fast!

Keith


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## Joel (Mar 3, 2005)

I have used the jig with springs and liked it. I have gone however to a different method when doing quantities of frames.

I place 20 top bars in sequence and then take a hand full of end bars (10 at a time) and line them up holding them in 1 hand and my glue in the other. It takes a few seconds to glue top and bottome end bar joints and place them on one side of the top bars. I repeat the process with the the other side and then place the bottom bar into the end bar grooves. Placing my hand over 4 bottom bars at a time, using an air nailer with 1 1/4 " brads (frames are standing free) I nail the right sides. I then turn the frames and nail the bottom bar on the other side. I flip them all top side up and repeat the process although the frames are leaning against the wall for this part of the process. I then add the nail the under end bar nail on both ends and stack the frame. Usually do 50 - 60 frames and hour, which sounds about the rate Barry mentions.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I just pinch one of the ends as I flip it. They can't really go anywhere anyway, but it keeps them in line.


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## GaSteve (Apr 28, 2004)

I made one similar to those above. But instead of the removable piece being a flat board, it is a piece of 5/8" dowel rod. I put a piece of pipe insulation over the dowel -- that cheap foam stuff you slip over pipes to keep them from freezing. It's only about 15 cents a foot.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2126067&cp=1254880.1255024.1306491&parentPage=family&searchId=1306491

That holds every end bar in place when you turn it over. It will also work with the different thicknesses of end bars as no two manufacturers are exactly alike.


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## Keith Benson (Feb 17, 2003)

Wow - you guys are very handy. I had to buy mine  

Ah someday I will have a space for that table saw.

Keith


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