# Moth Balls/ Bleech



## MRTMET (Oct 23, 2012)

You guys are going to get tired of me asking questions but I want my Bee's to make it.

#1. If I store my supers and frames in my bard with Moth Balls do I need to do anything to them before I use them for my Bee's?

#2. A friend gave me two hives he used to use, they are complete from bottom to top and in very good condition, all I really need to do is repaint them, I notice some what I would call black mold inside one of the supers, I rub my hand over the area and get my hands black, will this hurt the Bee's and can I use a good Bleech/water solution to clean them up and bee safe?

#3. How do you keep moisture from forming inside the hive during the winter?


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## cg3 (Jan 16, 2011)

Moth crystals (PDB) are OK, moth balls (napthalene) are NOT.Bleach is OK.
Don't ask this in the treatment-free forum or you will get a stern lecture.


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## MRTMET (Oct 23, 2012)

OMG, I just checked it out, didn't even think there would be such a section, PLEASE don't tell them I'm going to Bleech my supers. I get into enough trouble by myself.


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## thenance007 (May 25, 2011)

Problem isn't so much the bleach as the moth balls or crystals--nasty stuff! Just air out the boxes for a couple of weeks until the bleach odor is gone, although bleach doesn't always kill mold. Bees generally will clean it out. Given that it is the fumes from the moth crystals that keep the moths away, and that wax is very absorbant, the concern is that the PDB residue will always be in your wax. Even at low levels, this can't be good for young bees. Once it is there, it is there to stay, so just make sure you really believe you need to do that. If not, check out Michael Bush' webpage for safer ways to store frames.


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## papamoose (Apr 7, 2010)

As for the moisture a little ventilation. A popsicle stick under the cover and some dry sugar to absorb what does not make it out. This also aids in emergency feed if they are running short.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> #3. How do you keep moisture from forming inside the hive during the winter?

If you have live bees in the hive, there _will _be humid air. So you need to allow that humid air to vent before it condenses into water. A top vent is the easiest way to do this.


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## heaflaw (Feb 26, 2007)

MRTMET said:


> #3. How do you keep moisture from forming inside the hive during the winter?


That's what the notch in the back of the inner cover is for.


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

I store my frames and supers in a sandwich. Telescoping cover upside down super with frames, more supers with frames, another cover on top. No wax moths = no wax worms.
A little BLEACH gos a long way. You don't need much in a gallon of water.


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

Another thing to consider is the use of plastic telescoping covers. Both my brother and I have quit using them -- they let too much light through (his bees closed off the escape hole in the inner cover) and since they are essentially thermally transparent, condense water all the time. That condensation drips onto the inner cover, soaking it. We tossed ours after one cracked all the way through on top of the water problems. Wooden covers are vastly superior as far as I'm concerned.

Some ventilation is too, and also put the sticky board in under screened bottom boards if you have damp weather in the winter. This will greatly reduce the amount of wet air entering the hive, and hence the amount of water condensing on the top cover.

Paradichlorobenzene moth flakes work fine as it is much more volatile than naphthalene. It will evaporate much more completely from the wax than naphthalene. 

Peter


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## KQ6AR (May 13, 2008)

If you used the wrong type of moth balls you're supers might be ruined. If you used PDB they only need to be aired out.



cg3 said:


> Moth crystals (PDB) are OK, moth balls (napthalene) are not.


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