# New from WNY -All advice welcome!!!!!!!!!



## AmericasBeekeeper (Jan 24, 2010)

Welcome Heidi!


----------



## GaryG74 (Apr 9, 2014)

Welcome to Bee Source. Search the numerous threads, I'm sure any questions you may have, have been asked on this forum. Good luck with your hives.


----------



## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

Get the mouse out, immediately! And protect entrances on both hives with mouse guards.

If one hive is really queenless, its only chance for winter survival is to be combined with the queenright one, or to install a mated queen right away, if you can find one. (Sometimes queens will stop laying in the Fall, so you may actually have a queen there. This is a tricky assessment.)

Honey-boundness is not a really big problem at this season as bees are naturally backfilling their brood boxes in anticipation of winter. What would be a worrisome sign of swarm preps in May (nectar and pollen in the frames in brood area) is OK now. That's not to say that you can't force them to swarm away in late fall, but it isn't common.

What's your varroa mite status and what have you done in the last month or so to treat for them? Protection of wintering bees starting in August is probably the most crucial thing you can do for winter survival. But there is still time for some kinds of treatments.

What much do your hives weigh? How many boxes? How many frames of stores? How many drawn but empty frames are there? What is the recommended weight/size for hives in your area? These are important questions to deal with now while you can still feed them 2:1 syrup.

Beyond that you should be reading about and exploring ways that people "winterize" their stacks using upper entrances, quilt boxes, insulation, wind blockers, wrapping, etc. There are lots of ways to do it and lots of info about how beekeepers in all climates do it, here on BS.

Scrape out any beetle larvae (to the trash, not on the ground where they will pupate and emerge as adults) Squash any adults you can (give them the "hive tool test" - all of the ones I test fail!) But unless you have frames that are all wormy and slimy, if your bees are are strong they will take care of the beetles up here in the north.

find your nearest bee club and join up to find expert local advice.

So, that's you to-do list for tomorrow (in order of urgency.)

And welcome to both Beesource and beekeeping in NY. I am in eastern NY, north of Albany near the Vt border.

Enjambres


----------



## Lappe's Bee Supply (Jun 13, 2016)

Welcome to the forum!


----------



## HeidisHive (Oct 2, 2016)

Thank you for the advice. The mouse is gone & guards are on. We are trying to borrow an ?atomizer? to treat the mites. I've been given a number to call of a local guy that has been doing this is whole life. So I'm trying to connect with him, but I don't want him to come out in the rain.....and it keeps raining on the weekends.

My adult beetles have also failed the hive tool test.


----------



## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

It's a vaporizer and if you plan to do this be sure you have the required personal protective gear for using it safely. You absolutely must wear a properly-fitted breathing mask with ACID GAS cartridges. 

It will look like this on your face:








You can also do an OA dribble which doesn't require anything more than gloves and goggles.

Don't attempt either one without thoroughly researching the method, risks, etc.

And don't dilly-dally waiting round if your contact doesn't respond - there isn't much time left and it sounds like you have major issues that need to be addressed in the next week or so.

Enj.


----------



## Riverderwent (May 23, 2013)

HeidisHive said:


> We've managed to muddle our way thru the muddy waters, but am looking for any advice from experienced beekeepers.


Full sun will help with beetles. 3/8" high entrance keeps mice out for me. Using feral survivor bees helps with mites where I am. Welcome.


----------



## HeidisHive (Oct 2, 2016)

thank You for the advice. i'll be sure to take the necessary precautions.


----------

