# 3rd week of my first mead/ here are my gravity readings so far.



## trottet1

Would anyone care to analyze these numbers and let me know if things are going well or not (if you can even tell by the info I'm about to provide)?

#1 Jan 02 original gravity = 1.071/ Jan 13 SG 1.050/ Jan 24 SG 1.038

#2 1.089 1.071 1.058

#3 1.075 1.061 1.034

I hope this is enough info for someone to be able to give some sort of indication as to what is going on. I know that the decreased numbers are a good thing and that is the direction they need to go. Just wondering if the rate in which they are dropping is good. Also, does this help in advising me when I can or should rack these into secondaries?

Any discussion would be very appreciated and more than welcome.

Thank You. 

Todd


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## ColoradoRaptor

You didn't say what yeast you used? Some metabolize sugar faster. It looks like a slow start. As long as they are still fermenting you should be fine. You should rack after fermentation stops or is mostly stopped.


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## trottet1

I'm sorry. I used lavlin 1118. I know that is one thing right off the bat that I will be changing when I improve on this in the future. You had actually advised me in a previous post about this batch and suggested that this yeast will probably produce a very dry mead.


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## Tenbears

It would but almost any yeast would given your Starting Gravity. You will end up with a mead just above 10% ABV. The ferment seems rather slow, Which is not a problem as usually slow ferments result in a mead that carries good honey flavor profile. With that said the ferment seem dangerously slow and may stall, You did not mention any tannins or nutrients. I would be a little concerned about a stall Because Ec-1118 is known ad old reliable. A work horse of a yeast that runs through the ferment. As long as the SG continues to drop you will be good to go, I would be inclined to give it a bit of DAP if the SG is 1.038 after three weeks, Or check your hydrometer.


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## trottet1

I have put nothing in the way of yeast nutrients in any of the 3. #3 however, does contain 2 cut up apples. Not sure it that is beneficial to the yeast or not. i will go to the brew shop tomorrow and get some DAP. Thank you.


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## ColoradoRaptor

I agree with Tenbears on this one! I would however be careful with DAP as that can leave your mead tasting terrible if the yeast does not use it and this late in the ferment it may be to late for that! Nutrient is important with meads in general due to a lack there of in honey! I would choose to add some raisins, break them up a bit and add them if you want to add nutrients. Otherwise I would buy some generic nutrient, fermaid k or fermaid o and use that if you can. Your yeast should have dropped your numbers about 10 points a day with a healthy ferment.


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## Tenbears

At this stage I would not be concerned with the yeast not using the DAP, as mead with a ABV below 10% spoils very quickly. If these meads do not go to dryness they will not be viable. So you will have to do something to restart the ferment. There is in every instance still well above the 50% sugar break. So there is ample sugar for the yeast. Although raisins are a good start they add more in the way of Tannin than nutrients and require compounds to be adequate. The Fernaids are a good suggestion. regardless of what you choose you have to get this to ferment to dryness.


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## trottet1

Thanks folks! I'm going to head to the brew shop tomorrow and see if I can salvage this batch.


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## ColoradoRaptor

Your welcome! Good advice from Tenbears on spoilage! If by chance your ferments have stalled or are stalling there is a method I read about to get them going again that sounds really good. I have yet to need this option but in case you do here is the link https://www.denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Sfno/


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## Hops Brewster

that is a pretty slow primary ferment. It makes me think that either there was not enough O2 in the must at the beginning, or the room you're fermenting in is rather cool. Perhaps both. A cool room is not a big problem if there is enough oxygen, because an active ferment generates a certain amount of its own heat. I'd like to know if you stirred the must at the the first few days, to oxygenate. 
Also, in an active fermentation there is a natural circulation of the must, which helps keep the yeast active. In a very slow ferment there is less circulation , so it can be helpful to occasionally stir the must to keep things circulated.

Colorado's link is a very good suggestion.


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## trottet1

Hey hops,

I did not stir the must during the first few days. Just shook vigorously the first day. Also, the first week they sat in a closet that was about 59 degrees f. They were then moved to an area that was warmer (around upper 60s to low 70s. 

Here is where I may have messed up. In total beginner fashion, I acted in haste yesterday. When I was taking the readings, I attempted to "degass" and "oxygenate" the must. It was a real shoemaker method and I'm actually a little embarrassed to admit this. I used a turkey baster as my thief, so when I was done with my readings, I pretty much put the baster in the must empty and squeezed. It was a real lame attempt to oxygenate and degass. I read afterward (why would I research more before I actually started?) That oxygenation should only take place during first few days and with a real method as opposed to my hack method. So there's where I am at now. Going to the shop today to buy the right tool for the job and to get the above recommended nutrients. 

Thanks for weighing in on this and I hope I provided some good entertainment lol.


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## Hops Brewster

I've used a baster as a thief a time or 2 as well. Just be certain it's sanitized. 
I don't see why you're trying to degas at this stage, though. O2 (a gas) in the must is necessary for the yeast to work in the primary fermentation, and their exhaust, CO2, is required as a layer on the must to keep it from spoiling before it's finished. The only time you need to degas is at the end of the last ferment, if you are wanting perfectly still mead.


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## trottet1

I was reading somewhere, online, that C02 was poison to the yeast. After speaking with the guy at the brew shop and reading your response (pretty identical to the guy in the brewshop), I'd say it is pretty safe to disregard what I read (or perhaps interpreted) from an old archived post on some random forum. I am learning all the things not to do for my first real batch. I will read my book I just got last week cover to cover before proceeding.


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## ColoradoRaptor

As was mentioned by Hops temperature is critical for fermentation! Here is a link to a PDF chart for Lallemand yeasts http://www.math.fsu.edu/~gmizell/mead/Lallemand Yeast Quick Reference.pdf


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## Tenbears

trottet1 said:


> I was reading somewhere, online, that C02 was poison to the yeast. . I will read my book I just got last week cover to cover before proceeding.


 Good catch HOP...

And people wonder why I try to stifle people who spew misunderstood feldergarb to beginners here!

It is best to begin with simple mead making basics, and follow time tested techniques. Than to try complicated techniques that have tenuis methods explained by people who don't really understand them well themselves!

Co2 shielding is not only necessary for preservation, But yeast produces alcohol in the absence of O2. Oxygen is only needed for the yeast to multiply. after that it is not necessary for the ferment.


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## ColoradoRaptor

Tenbears said:


> Co2 shielding is not only necessary for preservation, But yeast produces alcohol in the absence of O2. Oxygen is only needed for the yeast to multiply. after that it is not necessary for the ferment.


I agree with this statement. After primary fermentation it is important to preserve the mead protecting it against spoilage. 

Everyone should start with the basics and practice in small quantity before venturing into more complicated recipes. There is a lot to learn if you have an open mind! There are differences of opinion on this subject and nobody knows everything about anything even though some believe they do. Everything evolves and new things are learned all the time, so practice with small batches and experiment. You will have some failures and some successes and the beauty of this hobby success tastes great! :thumbsup:


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## BadBeeKeeper

Tenbears said:


> Co2 shielding is not only necessary for preservation, But yeast produces alcohol in the absence of O2. Oxygen is only needed for the yeast to multiply. after that it is not necessary for the ferment.


Yes, introducing O2 after fermentation causes oxidation, and makes your mead taste like wet cardboard...I had a taste for paste when I was a kid in elementary school, but cardboard not so much.


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## trottet1

> It is best to begin with simple mead making basics, and follow time tested techniques. Than to try complicated techniques that have tenuis methods explained by people who don't really understand them well themselves!


This was my original intention. 3 seperate gallons. 1 with more honey, 1 with less, and 1 with apples. Then I started reading archived forum posts and let them get in my head. I gotta keep reminding myself that I'm not looking to make some award winning mead. Heck, I don't even drink much. I'm just passing time to help ease some cabin fever, and maybe have something drinkable to share with friends during camping season.




> And people wonder why I try to stifle people who spew misunderstood feldergarb to beginners here!


I for one appreciate this. I perceive it as you (and other valuable members) preserving the integrity of the forum.


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## Hops Brewster

trot, you might still be able to rescue these batches in temps about 65 up to 72 using that method previously discussed. If you MUST keep your fermenters in the basement, then perhaps you could put them in a closet warmed by a light bulb.

I haven't made up my mind about your oxygen levels at this point, maybe Tenbears or someone else can chime in.... but I think you will still have some O2 in there because you have not reached a point to rack it to secondary yet. My thinking is that even though you have tried to degas, when you add the rescue yeast that you should gently stir the must to introduce a bit more O2. This will also release some of the CO2 that is in solution, giving you your blanket. A little bit of agitation of the jug while it is fermenting could be beneficial, but remember, _you are not trying to degas it_, just keep the yeast in contact what little O2 is left, so it can reproduce!

THen also remember when it comes time to rack to secondary, do not splash the must as much as possible avoid O2 introduction.
CO2 will naturally come out of solution while racking to cap the must.


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## Tenbears

Are we sure the ferment has stalled? Lalvin EC-1118 has a temperature range from between 45-95° So it should ferment even at 60F fairly reliably. For me I would warm the must of all 3 to 70-75F If I did not see an increase in fermentation I would add some nutrient. And a small amount Since you are dealing with 1 gallon I would add about 1/16 teaspoon Dap (Di-ammonium phosphate) increases YAN, (yeast available Nitrogen) this promotes the multiplication of yeasties when oxygen cannot be infused in the must. Do one gallon and observe the results. If a ferment improves then follow suit on the others. If not you will have to make a new starter. I would up the sugar content a bit in order to give the starter more to digest when introduced to the must. I would think 2 tablespoons of honey per would do the trick. STARTER In 8oz 105F water add 2 tsp honey 1/8 tsp fermaid K or O and a Sacket of EC-1118 stir gently and place in a warm location. when the starter foams it is fermenting Add 1/3 of the starter to each carboy and affix air lock after adding nutrients and 1/16/tsp dap to the musts you have not yet done so. That should recover the ferment. and up your ABV a little.


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## trottet1

Thank you tenbears, 

I should update. The 3 individual gallons are and have been for 2 weeks now at about 70 degrees. Also, the guy from the brewshop suggested I hold off on any nutrients and just add a half cup of sugar to each. I did this by making a 2:1 syrup and adding to each.


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## Tenbears

trottet1 said:


> Thank you tenbears,
> 
> I should update. The 3 individual gallons are and have been for 2 weeks now at about 70 degrees. Also, the guy from the brewshop suggested I hold off on any nutrients and just add a half cup of sugar to each. I did this by making a 2:1 syrup and adding to each.


I would have added Honey as we are making mead, But at this point it is more important to get the ferment back on track than to be able to proclaim it as "mead" You will know if the addition worked in a few days.


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## trottet1

Thank you tenbears,

I wish I held off on going to the brew store or at least realized on my own that honey would have been the better choice. 

All is not lost. I got what seems to be really good info here with no conflicts. Thank you all. I will update when I take my next readings.


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## Tenbears

How are things going? Any sign of an active ferment?


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## trottet1

An early riser as well tenbears lol. I worked late all week and today is my only day off. Spending sun up to sun down in the tree stand. I'm going to try to take sone readings tonight when I get in. I will update. Thanks for checking in.


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## Tenbears

Good luck in the tree stand! Our season is over now.  But we will go for Hog the end of next month just a take the edge off hunting Fix. :applause:


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## trottet1

Ok, wind picked up a bit and chased me right out of the stand. Came back home for a break and will give it a go this afternoon. Anyway, as for the science experiment in the guest bath...

Gravity readings actually went up. I am guessing from the added sugar 4 days ago.

1. From 1.038 to 1.052
2. From1.058 to 1.060
3. From 1.034 and still 1.034.(this is the one with the apples and I added sugar to this as well. 

The sugar added was 1 cup of sugar divided into 3 individual gallons. Not sure if that is important info.


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## Hops Brewster

the rise in temperature can account for the slight increase in gravity. And/or parallax when reading the tube.
Have you added more yeast yet, a la the stuck fermentation rescue discussed earlier? Agitated a little bit?


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## Tenbears

Did you take a SG reading when you first added the Sugar? The additional sugar would naturally increase the SG. to know if the ferment is going you would have needed to know where the SG went when you first added the additional sugar. Then track to see if it falls. Is there good activity in the airlock? 

Here is MY suspicion, Since the temperature was within the tolerances of the EC-1118 yeast, and the SG was well below that which could result in Alcohol tolerance being exceeded. Adding to that, The fact that this is a mead. (honey is notorious for lacking nutrients) I would suspect the stalled ferment was due to a lack of nutrient. The apples would provide some nutrients thus the activity in that ferment. Which was why I suggested adding the nutrients in the beginning. Take another SG reading tomorrow so we can determine if a ferment is actually going or the mead has stalled completely! Then we can take it from there.


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## trottet1

Thanks Tenbears,

I will take readings tonite. The only problem is that the brew shop will close by the time I get home from work. If nutrient is needed, and I'm sure it is (I don't know why I let the guy at the brew store talk me out of it), should I chop up some raisins and add to play it safe? Also I just read that yeast will eat dead yeast and that if you boil a pack of yeast and kill it that it will act as a nutrient. I do have an extra pack of ec-1118.


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## trottet1

Update. Yesterday's reading vs today.

#1 1.052 to 1.050
#2. 1.060 to 1.060
#3. 1.034 to 1.030 (apples).

I assume these changes are unimpressive. I will be going to a different place tomorrow to get nutrients, since the guy here in town is just not cooperating. He literally won't sell me nutrients. He had me take more yeast and add it dry. I figured it couldn't hurt so I did. I have to admit though, airlock activity increased significantly in a very short amount of time. I still don't care for this shop manager. Who doesn't sell you what you ask for and just gives you for free what you didn't ask for? I just want the DAP.


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## Tenbears

Ask For fermaid K It has fatty acids and other nutrients important to Healthy yeast as well as DAP in it. It Will do a lot for your ferment.


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## trottet1

Thank you Tenbears. I will get it this afternoon. If only I demanded this the first time around, the ferment would have been well on its way.
Thanks again,
Todd


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## Tenbears

Probably be done by now! Let's hope it will run it's course after this. without having to make a starter.


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## trottet1

Update:

I added fermaid-k on Jan.31 (readings on Jan 30 and 31 were the same).

New readings on Feb. 2

#1 was 1.050 dropped to 1.046
#2 was 1.060 dropped to 1.054
#3 was 1.030 dropped to 1.022

It's moving again, just not sure if fast enough (especially 1 and 2). Is it time to consider the starter?


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## Tenbears

as long as they are dropping you should be good to go The fermaid will help the yeast multiply, The more it multiplies the more it will ferment. Keep us apprized.


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## ColoradoRaptor

trottet1 said:


> Update:
> 
> I added fermaid-k on Jan.31 (readings on Jan 30 and 31 were the same).
> 
> New readings on Feb. 2
> 
> #1 was 1.050 dropped to 1.046
> #2 was 1.060 dropped to 1.054
> #3 was 1.030 dropped to 1.022
> 
> It's moving again, just not sure if fast enough (especially 1 and 2). Is it time to consider the starter?


Glad to see you got things going again! I suggested nutrient early on because the info you gave indicated to me you needed it. Have you tasted it? Hopefully your mead has not turned with all the exposure it has had. I would not worry with a starter just yet, as it is dropping and hopefully you have yeast multiplying.


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## trottet1

Thanks folks!



> Have you tasted it?


I have tasted it. It doesn't taste fowl. Just kind of like a slightly carbonated honey water.

I'll update again after next readings.


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## Tenbears

ColoradoRaptor said:


> I would not worry with a starter just yet, as it is dropping and hopefully you have yeast multiplying.


 Of coarse not, WHY WOULD YOU USE A STARTER IN A FERMENT THAT IS GOING?


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## trottet1

CR was answering my question from my post #35. I don't think they were considering a starter.



> WHY WOULD YOU USE A STARTER IN A FERMENT THAT IS GOING?


Panic and ignorance. By year 2 of beekeeping I was told and understood that many times it is better to do nothing than to act blindly and in haste. It applies to more than just beekeeping. Thankfully I did not act and waited for the logical solution.


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## trottet1

Ok, I took some readings today. The before reading was on 2-2.

#1 1.046/1.034 #2 1.054/1.040 #3 1.022/1.006

I attempted to calculate abv as it stands now and came up with:

#1 og 1.071 sg 1.034=4.86 
#2 og 1.089 sg 1.040=6.43
#3 og 1.075 sg 1.006=9.06

I tasted a little of each. They all taste ok or at least not fowl or spoiled.

There is also not a terrible amount of sediment on the bottoms of the glass fermenters.

Seems like it's doing what it's supposed to as are my bees. I have a 100% survival rate so far. I'm not used to everything going as planned. I'm out of my mind right now.


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## Tenbears

It will be imposable to determine ABV because you added additional sugar during mid ferment and did not record the SG after adding it. The additional sugar would in give you a higher total SG than your starting SG. In any event if the ferment is still going let it go to dryness. As low ABV can spoil fairly easily. Once done you can asses your PH and determine preservative needs if any. If you really want to figure out ABV I can explain how to do so After it is finished.

And Congrats on the bees!


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## trottet1

Thank You Tenbears. I'll check again in a week.


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## Ben Brewcat

A half cup of sugar wouldn't significantly add to the gravity. A half cup weighs about 3.5 ounces=.21875 pounds. Multiply that by 45 gravity points (points per pound per gallon) for granulated sugar and you get 9.8 total gravity points. So take 9.8 and divide by the volume of the (individual) batch and you get the additional SG points that the sucrose addition lent. Easy peasy .


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## ColoradoRaptor

Ben Brewcat said:


> A half cup of sugar wouldn't significantly add to the gravity. A half cup weighs about 3.5 ounces=.21875 pounds. Multiply that by 45 gravity points (points per pound per gallon) for granulated sugar and you get 9.8 total gravity points. So take 9.8 and divide by the volume of the (individual) batch and you get the additional SG points that the sucrose addition lent. Easy peasy .


LOL.... yeah, easy peasy I prefer to use a vinometer and here is a link with a good description on how to use it http://www.hambletonbard.com/how-to...ol/wine-alcohol-meter-homebrew-vinometer.html


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## trottet1

:update: 

Gravity readings 7 days later.

1 is down 10 points to 1.024. 2 is down 12 points to 1.028 and 3 is down 6 points to 1.0. 

My plan is to keep checking until all 3 stop moving. Then transfer to secondaries. (Moving to elevated surface the day before transfer).

Thanks benbrewcat for the input on that. I haven't had time to play with the math as my priorities are shifting to beekeeping planning/goals and research as spring is right around the corner. I have taken note of the formula and will revisit that in the future.


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## Ravenseye

Yes. Maple syrup, beekeeping and now Mead making seem to converge in the spring! At least this year.


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## BadBeeKeeper

Ravenseye said:


> Yes. Maple syrup, beekeeping and now Mead making seem to converge in the spring! At least this year.


Time for a batch of Acer Mead? (PP. 367, "The Home Brewer's Companion", Charlie Papazian, 1994 edition.)


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## ColoradoRaptor

BadBeeKeeper said:


> Time for a batch of Acer Mead?


Yes, yes it is!! Anyone know where I can get some bulk Maple syrup for reasonable??


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## Ravenseye

I've got two batches of Acerglyn in the secondary right now. One spiced....one not. Both tasted a little rough when I racked so it'll be a while before I test them again. Dark syrup from the tail end of last season.


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## BadBeeKeeper

Ravenseye said:


> I've got two batches of Acerglyn in the secondary right now. One spiced....one not. Both tasted a little rough when I racked so it'll be a while before I test them again. Dark syrup from the tail end of last season.


Syrup might be a different flavor...the recipe I mentioned calls for raw maple sap in place of water. I have not tapped any of my trees yet so I haven't tried it.


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## Tenbears

BadBeeKeeper said:


> Syrup might be a different flavor...the recipe I mentioned calls for raw maple sap in place of water. I have not tapped any of my trees yet so I haven't tried it.


Better Get Crackin. With the weather we have been having It is time. We are about done down here in the deep south! LOL :lpf:


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## Ravenseye

Yeah, I'm bringing the buckets down from storage next weekend. It won't be long I think for us to get the taps flowing. For some around here that tapped early, they got a pretty good flow a couple of weeks ago before the cold rolled in again.


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## BadBeeKeeper

Tenbears said:


> Better Get Crackin. With the weather we have been having It is time. We are about done down here in the deep south! LOL :lpf:


I only recently began learning the basics of how to do it, and I haven't finished surveying and marking the trees (sugar maple and red maple). I don't have a lot of sugar maples, more red, and not a lot that are mature enough to tap.


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## Ben Brewcat

I've dreamed for years of tapping our boxelder (narrow-leafed maple) but haven't yet taken the plunge. If anyone thinks to do so, take a gravity reading of the drawn sap please: one idea I've considered is simply using the sap instead of water in constituting the must. Probably would benefit from sulfiting.


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## Vance G

A friend of mine made syrup from boxelders and paper birch. Tasted like maple syrup.


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## Tenbears

Boxelder is in the maple family, I search them out intently looking for those that have been attacked by the ambrosia beetle. Most beautiful wood in the world! Anyway, I never imagined that syrup could be made from Birch. Sounds intriguing!


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## BadBeeKeeper

I've tasted birch sap/syrup, was different from maple. When I was a kid I used to get Birch Beer (like Root Beer) but I haven't seen it for a long time...and I think we are highjacking the thread...


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## trottet1

> ...and I think we are highjacking the thread...


I really don't mind at all. I am at a "sit and wait" point with my mead. If my topic can segue into a productive chat for others, then no harm done.

I will post updates and questions as needed (will probably take readings today and then ask about when to rack). In the mean time, have at it.

Todd


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## Tenbears

BadBeeKeeper said:


> I've tasted birch sap/syrup, was different from maple. When I was a kid I used to get Birch Beer (like Root Beer) but I haven't seen it for a long time...and I think we are highjacking the thread...


 One last act of thievery  I still make birch beer But it is made from the root of the brown birch. Not paper bark, Which with the weather we are having I should get cracking myself. We only have a very few paper bark birch around here, But when I lived in Massachusetts they were everywhere.


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## BadBeeKeeper

I have a few of the paper birch here on my land, but the gray birch are much more numerous. For some reason unknown to me, the gray birch seem to have a habit of rotting (inside) once they get past a certain age/size, and grow fungus on them, then fall down. The last few Winters have been very hard on the younger ones, heavy, wet snow and ice on multiple occasions have left them bent over in arches, some touching the ground. I don't know if they'll ever straighten up and grow right.


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## trottet1

:update:

Previous reading vs current reading.

#1. 1.024 / 1.016
#2. 1.028/ 1.020
#3. 1.000/ .998

I think #3 is just about done, but I will wait until all are completely done before racking.

Any thoughts on my numbers and my plan?


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## Ben Brewcat

Looking good! It's either very close or done at that gravity of .998. Be sure to rack carefully so as to admit as little air as possible.


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## Tenbears

trottet1 said:


> :update:
> 
> Previous reading vs current reading.
> 
> #1. 1.024 / 1.016
> #2. 1.028/ 1.020
> #3. 1.000/ .998
> 
> I think #3 is just about done, but I will wait until all are completely done before racking.
> 
> Any thoughts on my numbers and my plan?


 What is up with this ferment. Did they all go to dryness? just curious.


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## trottet1

I have not taken readings since that last 1. I did, however, rack all 3 into secondaries about a week ago. All airlock activity had stopped. I will take readings either tomorrow or Thursday and post. I'd like to get them bottled as soon as I can as the fermenters have a bit of head space.


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## Tenbears

If you have more headspace than you want, top up with come cheep white wine. Not Ideal but I don't think you want to invest in buying mead. Unless you have some around. That way you can let clear well, Even mead that seems clear will leave sediment in the bottle.


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## trottet1

Thank you tenbears. I will do just that. I took off today to feed the bees (emergency due to very poor planning). They come first, but once that is resolved, I will run out for some wine, take gravity readings and top off. I'll post the results.


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## trottet1

:update:

here are the readings march 4th reading/today's reading:

#1- 1.010/1.006 #2- 1.012 #3- .998/.998

#'s 1 and 2 are a concern I think. I was expecting them to be below 1.000 considering the time lapse between the previous reading. I did do as you suggested and added some cheap white wine to all 3 to bring up to the neck. #1 and 2 are more clear than #3. 3 had the apples in it and I assume that has something to do with it. Whatcha think?


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## Tenbears

Yes anything that has fruit of any kind will result in more sediment. Or pectin which can take time to clear. Sounds like each of them has gone to dryness or fairly close at least. let them clear well, Never bottle cloudy mead. In fact quite often mead that looks perfectly clear will have sediment in the bottle after a few months in the bottle. Which is not a problem Just that some find it objectionable. I use to just shake it up my lady would ever so gently pour the mead of into a glass. 

You have a completed ferment now it is a waiting game. As the CO2 comes from the mead it will clear better. one gallon batches clear faster than 6, and 170. Keep us up to date.


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## trottet1

> You have a completed ferment now it is a waiting game.


Perfect. Got it done just before the bees will need all of my attention.

Thanks for all the help!


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## trottet1

Update.

All 3 meads have been bottled. The first 1 was done early may. The other 2 tonite. They are not award winners, but all 3 are drinkable. The first one only has an 8.5 abv. And very dry. The other 2 are 10.1 and 11.6. 

Once beekeeping season winds down, i will try a 6 gal. Batch and change a few things now that I am a little more familiar with the process. Thanks all.

Todd


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## Tenbears

trottet1 said:


> Update.
> 
> All 3 meads have been bottled. The first 1 was done early may. The other 2 tonite. They are not award winners, but all 3 are drinkable. The first one only has an 8.5 abv. And very dry. The other 2 are 10.1 and 11.6.
> 
> Once beekeeping season winds down, i will try a 6 gal. Batch and change a few things now that I am a little more familiar with the process. Thanks all.
> 
> Todd


:applause: :banana: It's party time.. Glad it worked out for you!


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## Vance G

These meads may be award winners. Don't judge them the first year. I have some still getting better six years later but unfortunately I am about out of it.


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## trottet1

I bottled each gallon into 375ml bottles for that reason. I have/had 8 bottles of each. I can sample and see how each improves over time. I'm hoping that I can save 2 bottles of each, put a date sticker on it, and forget about them. Thanks for the encouragement!


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