# Sticky  staple gun for supers



## Walliebee

I use a brad nailer that handles nails from 5/8" up to 1-1/4". It's electric so you don't have to buy the air compressor. It's $50 to $60. I use the 1-1/4" w/ glue for frames, and the 5/8" for the wedges.

Do a search on here. Lots of info.


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## riverrat

harbor freight sales a 1/4 crown stapler nailer that shoots up to 1 1/2 length staples for $19.00 I have used and abused mine and its still running great.


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## Bizzybee

You mean you missed the sale rat!!! 

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216053


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## Ross

I shoot 2.5" 15 guage finish nails in mine. I have a 15 guage stapler, but I like the longer length on the finish nails and it doesn't crush the grain like a staple does. I shoot them at an angle which gives them much greater holding power shooting into endgrain. Angle each one the opposite direction and it pretty effectively locks the joint.


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## danno

*nailer*

I just tack well glued supers with 2" brads then drill and nail with galv nails


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## Ravenseye

I use a Bostitch narrow crown stapler and shoot 1 1/2" staples. i switch to smaller staples for frames.


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## riverrat

Bizzybee said:


> You mean you missed the sale rat!!!
> 
> http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216053


Dadburnit Bizz you just know how to ruin a guys day. I could have had $5.00 extra to go drink with Bullseye and 8 other guys Who are willing to risk a brutal hang over to demonstrate to the rest of america how are tax system works.


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## coondogger

I've been using 1.5" narrow crown staples for frames, and 18 gauge 1.5" brads for the supers (glued in the finger joints). The only reason I use 18 gauge is because that's the size my air nailer/stapler uses. I'm sure some will say that 18 gauge is too small.


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## Jeffzhear

I got a Bostitch SX-150 Narrow Crown Pneumatic Stapler for Christmas this past year and it is one of the best toolsI have ever owned. I have only used it on frames and it made short order of those.


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## Bobcat57

Porter cable crown stapler with 1-1/2 staples works great with tite bond glue. :applause:


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## Kamon A. Reynolds

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?292551-Hitachi-Air-Stapler&highlight=Hitachi+stapler this is a thread on a great stapler I bought and have run 75000 stapler thru this year. It has not had any issues.


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## kilocharlie

I'm with Ross. Just bought a Campbell Hausfield 2-1/2" nail gun at a pawn shop for $17.00. It really does less damage to the wood in the finger joint area. I'm impressed. It also shoots shorter nails (1-3/4") for frames. Previously had a Hitachi, never missed a beat. Loved it.


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## shinbone

Tightbond III glue in conjunction with a "Max" brand pneumatic nailer shooting 3" stainless steel ringshank nails. (I used to use a 3lb sledge hammer to drive similar nails into the boxes). I use the overflow glue to seal the end grain. I also use BetterBee boxes, which are made from 7/8" stock, rather than the standard 3/4" stock. My assembled boxes are rock solid.

I have a few boxes which are the standard 3/4" stock held together with just nails. These 3/4"/nails-only boxes are noticeable less rigid than my glued BetterBee boxes.

I don't paint or otherwise seal my boxes, hence I use the SS nails to avoid rust stains caused by regular nails. Purely an aesthetic consideration.





.


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## shinbone

The nails I use; anything from 2-1/2" to 3" work well:

http://www.manasquanfasteners.com/full_plastic_strip


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## willbe

Porter cable crown stapler with 1-1/2 staples works great with tite bond glue
That's what I use


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## tnfiddler

Are 5/8th" brad nails used with titebond enough for nailing frames? I'm nailing from the side and top


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## NewJoe

riverrat said:


> harbor freight sales a 1/4 crown stapler nailer that shoots up to 1 1/2 length staples for $19.00 I have used and abused mine and its still running great.


I will second this.....I used to build houses for a living, and I have had nail guns of all brands...and these cheap harbor freight guns will hang right with the expensive guns!


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## tedlemay

Titebond and Screws!


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## rolftonbees

Its safer to hand the kids a cordless screwdriver and a box of screws.


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## robinh

willbe said:


> Porter cable crown stapler with 1-1/2 staples works great with tite bond glue
> That's what I use


:thumbsup:


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## philip.devos

riverrat said:


> harbor freight sales a 1/4 crown stapler nailer that shoots up to 1 1/2 length staples for $19.00 I have used and abused mine and its still running great.


+1. They have an inexpensive compressor as well. Just don't make the mistake I made on the hose. Get rubber hose (flexible), NOT VINYL (stiff)!


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## Brad Bee

Tennessee's Bees LLC said:


> http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?292551-Hitachi-Air-Stapler&highlight=Hitachi+stapler this is a thread on a great stapler I bought and have run 75000 stapler thru this year. It has not had any issues.


I've got the same one. I've had it for 2 years. I haven't shot 75,000 staples with it, but I have shot 4 boxes of them. I think there's 5000 per box. I've shot everything from 1/2" to 1 1/2". I have found that Senco staples are superior to any others I have available locally. I've tried Hitachi, Bostich, and Senco staples. Senco only from here on out. They hold MUCH better and don't rust.

Now that we have a Harbor Freight, I'll buy one of the $19 ones to use for different sized staples. I don't like having to change out the staples. It slows me down. Time is money....


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## aunt betty

Senco staples shot thru a harbor freight 1/4" crown stapler along with titebond 3. 
Using butt joints and doing it fast and dirty on the supers. They'll last a few years until I can invest in some proper wood.


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## dott

check your local pawn shops, got a Bostitch air stapler for 20.00. Look and works like brand new!


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## Bee Pimp

I use HITACHi N5008AC2 7/16 X 1 3/4 crown staple. Also Titebond III.


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## My-smokepole

The Hitacch is a great gun. Got mine out of the pawn shop for like $75.


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## Michael Bush

I have some boxes where someone used 1 1/4" x 1/4" crown staples. They do not stay together. Most of mine are 1 1/2" 1/4" crown staples and they do well. If my gun would take longer staples I would use them...


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## Sunday Farmer

Bee Pimp said:


> I use HITACHi N5008AC2 7/16 X 1 3/4 crown staple. Also Titebond III.


I love my Hitachi. So light, repetitive fire. Totally will take the Pepsi challenge tho with the titebond. I use gorilla.


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## Sunday Farmer

Michael Bush said:


> I have some boxes where someone used 1 1/4" x 1/4" crown staples. They do not stay together. Most of mine are 1 1/2" 1/4" crown staples and they do well. If my gun would take longer staples I would use them...


I've used the 1 1/4 narrow crown. Worked fine, just back staple as well.


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## psm1212

Just be careful when stapling the frame pieces. Some times a leg of the staple will follow the grain out the side of the wood. If you happen to be holding the pieces in place a little too high, you will become stapled to the frame. Ask me how I know.


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## Michael Bush

> Ask me how I know.

The same way I know?


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## Nharcher1

Better to get that knowledge for a nadrow crown staple than a framing nail.....took a doctor amd a pair of pliers to get that one out!


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## CrazyTalk

Been using a Surebonder 9630 - cost about $30 on amazon - driven a couple thousand staples for various projects - no problems.


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## challenger

Michael Bush said:


> I have some boxes where someone used 1 1/4" x 1/4" crown staples. They do not stay together. Most of mine are 1 1/2" 1/4" crown staples and they do well. If my gun would take longer staples I would use them...


That's a fact. It isn't the gauge of the staple (or nail), it is the length that helps holding power. I wish mine took longer staples.



psm1212 said:


> Just be careful when stapling the frame pieces. Some times a leg of the staple will follow the grain out the side of the wood. If you happen to be holding the pieces in place a little too high, you will become stapled to the frame. Ask me how I know.


Yup, that can happen. Don't ask me how I know this either. 
I'm sure glad my stapler doesn't take longer staples 
I really should not be permitted to use power tools of any sort but sometimes "they" let me.


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## BeesInNJ

I'm looking to get a nailer/stapler but unsure of which, and now I see this thread. I would like something that will be well suited for building all hive components, be it brood boxes, bottom boards, roofs, etc. Would the Hitachi N3804AB3 mentioned be a good for this? Or should I go with something else, with a longer length nail/staple?


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## robinh

Yes, it will shoot up to 13/4 inch staples and that will be all you need


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## Phoebee

I use a Hitachi air nailer with about 1.8" nails. Yes, they sometimes follow the grain. I usually break off any that protrude. 

Titebond III absolutely.

I have a cheap Harbor Freight nailer. It seems to have ingested a tiny piece of trash that made it fire at dangerous times. Pulling the trigger would not make it fire, but connecting or disconnecting the air would make it fire, without the safety mechanism depressed. Quite disturbing. A complete cleaning of the guts fixed it, but now I treat air nailers with the same range safety considerations I would with a pistol. It could probably happen to any of them.

I don't use the air nailer for frames. For that I use a spring-drive stapler that can also shoot 5/8" brads. Titebond does the heavy holding. I shoot the brads in from the sides so they are long enough.


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## GoodyFarms

I use a Porter cable ms200 medium crown staple gun with 2" B&C Eagle stainless steel medium crown staples. This along with tight bond 3 makes a very strong bond and I've never had issues with boxes pulling appart. 

I use a Porter cable narrow crown stapler with 1.5" staples for frames. It might work for boxes, but for me a medium crown stapler is better for boxes.


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## sakhoney

1.5 harbor freight gun and 1/4 x 1.5 inch staples -






for years -and are holding all of these together


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## pjigar

I use 2" medium crown electro galvanized staples with glued finger joint. Over kill by far but I want to do it only once.


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## jmgi

A while back my son bought a Grex 16 ga. 7/16" crown stapler for assembling supers. He bought some 2" long staples for it. We tried using it the first time and found that the stapler obviously needs a larger air compressor to feed the stapler, as the stapler would only shoot the first or maybe second staple deep enough into the wood before you had to take a small break to let the compressor catch up.... not too efficient! How do I decide what size compressor I need to buy (without overkill) to get the proper air pressure continuously at the tool? Thanks.


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## Sunday Farmer

Hey. I use that portable porter cable pancake compressor with two outlets. It's primarily what we use on jobsites. It is going to turn on and every dozen shots or so. If you don't want that look at a much larger tank. 
They all have gauges too. It's not always catching up, but turning on before it gets too low.


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## pjigar

I am using 6 gal or 4 gal double stacked hotdog tank style compressor and I can shoot 2" medium crown staples at 100 PSI setting flush to the box. Pancake style compressor may not be powerful enough.


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## Sunday Farmer

pjigar said:


> I am using 6 gal or 4 gal double stacked hotdog tank style compressor and I can shoot 2" medium crown staples at 100 PSI setting flush to the box. Pancake style compressor may not be powerful enough.


The porter cable pancake is, we run 2 framing guns off it on
Jobsites simultaneously.


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## jmgi

I forgot to say in my OP that the compressor I have right now is very small, only a 4 gal. tank and 1.5 hp., it works fine for my small staple gun that I use to put frames together, but insufficient volume for the large stapler that I mentioned.


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## snl

Michael Bush said:


> I have some boxes where someone used 1 1/4" x 1/4" crown staples. They do not stay together. Most of mine are 1 1/2" 1/4" crown staples and they do well. If my gun would take longer staples I would use them...


My understanding is that the nail/staple is only used to hold the wood together until the glue dries. If that's true, what difference the length of nail/staple?


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## crofter

snl said:


> My understanding is that the nail/staple is only used to hold the wood together until the glue dries. If that's true, what difference the length of nail/staple?


I think that is telling you that maybe your understanding needs some fact checking Myself, I am a belt *and* suspenders guy; if one fails the other takes over!


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## jinxx4ever

Gorilla wood glue and screws. Had my own construction company for 26 years before retiring. Nothing holds like a screw. Also, u are not beating something apart while trying to put it together, even though air guns are less worrisome than hand nailing.


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## Sour Kraut

Two DeWalt cordless screwdrivers

one with a drill / countersink bit (let the grandkids do that part, they are 'helping Grandpa')

one to drive 2-1/2 " weatherproofed screws

a piece of 3/4 plywood to fit snugly inside to keep it square

takes a good bit longer but they don't loosen up


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## huskermonster

shinbone said:


> Tightbond III glue in conjunction with a "Max" brand pneumatic nailer shooting 3" stainless steel ringshank nails. (I used to use a 3lb sledge hammer to drive similar nails into the boxes). I use the overflow glue to seal the end grain. I also use BetterBee boxes, which are made from 7/8" stock, rather than the standard 3/4" stock. My assembled boxes are rock solid.
> 
> I have a few boxes which are the standard 3/4" stock held together with just nails. These 3/4"/nails-only boxes are noticeable less rigid than my glued BetterBee boxes.
> 
> I don't paint or otherwise seal my boxes, hence I use the SS nails to avoid rust stains caused by regular nails. Purely an aesthetic consideration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Those betterbee 7/8" box material is very nice stuff


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## LittleTreeGuy

I know this is an older thread that was kind of reborn... but I'll add my opinion... we all like those, right? 

I think the method for attaching also depends on the joint being used. I've used Elmers wood glue and Titebond 3 in my little shop, and now I use Titebond 3 exclusively. I wouldn't use anything else on my hive parts. I don't think it can be beat, but again, that's MY opinion. Your mileage may vary. All of my thoughts below are with the mind that you are using that glue.

-If a person is just using a butt joint, I would feel more comfortable using glue and screws with pre-drilled pilot holes.

-If using a rabbit type joint, I think glue and nails or staples would be sufficient, screws would add a little more "extra" assurance.

-If using finger joints, I think glue and nails or staples are sufficient, again, screws add extra assurance.

-if using really good (tight) finger joints, glue will likely hold on it's own for several years.

I only use 8 frame mediums, and I don't throw stuff around. I may drop a hive body a foot or two to the ground, and I don't "baby" anything, but I treat it like I want it to last. 

Wow... I've gotten off on a tangent here, haven't I.... sorry.

I use a Hitachi 18ga stapler with a porter cable pancake compressor, set to about 75 or 80psi. I use 1 1/4" staples. I build my boxes with 3/4" box joints. One staple per "finger" on the joint along with glue. Covered in primer and two coats of paint. If I try to get it apart, the wood breaks before the joint does.


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## LittleTreeGuy

I know this is an older thread that was kind of reborn... but I'll add my opinion... we all like those, right? 

I think the method for attaching also depends on the joint being used. I've used Elmers wood glue and Titebond 3 in my little shop, and now I use Titebond 3 exclusively. I wouldn't use anything else on my hive parts. I don't think it can be beat, but again, that's MY opinion. Your mileage may vary. All of my thoughts below are with the mind that you are using that glue.

-If a person is just using a butt joint, I would feel more comfortable using glue and screws with pre-drilled pilot holes.

-If using a rabbit type joint, I think glue and nails or staples would be sufficient, screws would add a little more "extra" assurance.

-If using finger joints, I think glue and nails or staples are sufficient, again, screws add extra assurance.

-if using really good (tight) finger joints, glue will likely hold on it's own for several years.

I only use 8 frame mediums, and I don't throw stuff around. I may drop a hive body a foot or two to the ground, and I don't "baby" anything, but I treat it like I want it to last. 

Wow... I've gotten off on a tangent here, haven't I.... sorry.

I use a Hitachi 18ga stapler with a porter cable pancake compressor, set to about 75 or 80psi. I use 1 1/4" staples. I build my boxes with 3/4" box joints. One staple per "finger" on the joint along with glue. Covered in primer and two coats of paint. If I try to get it apart, the wood breaks before the joint does.


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## beepimp

Hitachi 7/16 crown stapler with 1 3/4 inch staples and tightbond III.


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## JimD

Harbor Freight 18 gauge in assorted lengths. Under 20 dollars at HF.

I use it on most projects even the bee boxes before screwing them. Handy tool to have just keep your fingers out of the way since the 2" can bend and jump and come out the sides.


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## tech.35058

rolftonbees said:


> Its safer to hand the kids a cordless screwdriver and a box of screws.


For kids, I agree.


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## tech.35058

I hurriedly ( is hurriedly a word? ) threw together some supers in early June, from scrap packing crate lumber, did not paint, just got them on the hives as fast as I could get them stapled together. butt jointte most with glue. 1/4 inch crown staples, 1&1/2 long.
Now the flow is over here, extraction/ bottling is done, getting these boxes off & repairing, painting etc. some of the boards are "cupping" apart at the edges. I am pulling them back close with a bar clamp & Adding a screw in each corner, filling the cracks & open end grains, knots with glue & painting/repainting . Same for some of my original finger joint boxes.
For future/new construction, I will consider a screw in each corner to start with.
Good Luck with your bees ...CE


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## Gino45

JimD said:


> Harbor Freight 18 gauge in assorted lengths. Under 20 dollars at HF.
> 
> These are great until they break. I have a broken Senco that cost about $200 well over 30 years ago. When it broke, I went to the harbor freights. They work well. I have probably 6 broken ones. Latest addition is a Hitachi which looks like the HF models, but has been going strong for maybe 3 years. I recommend Hitachi.


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## slopoke

Built all my boxes and frames with this. WORKS GREAT! https://www.harborfreight.com/18-Gauge-14-in-Crown-Air-Stapler-64156.html


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## JimD

Do not forget that 20 or 25% soupcon from HF.

I used to use Sears Tools when I worked for Brown and Root back going to school when the had 100% free replacement and were great tools. Hard to beat Harbor Freight on sale unless your life depended on it. I figure most of the foreign made tools are never going to be the quality of quality made tools from 50 years ago.


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## Michael Bush

I've started using stainless steel screws and glue.


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## Robert Holcombe

Dovetail joints and TiteBond III glue, then clamp up for 2 - 
4 hours ---- no screws, nails or staples. Water clean-up is great. Biggest problem is getting a router bit for 1-inch rough sawn pine with the routing fixture. I have to plane to .912 and use a 7/8ths deep bit bit (little extra extension  ).


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## AR1

Butt joints and screws, Titebond 2. Only on year 4, but no signs at all of weakening, no flex or wobble. I seal the end grain with glue too, then paint. It's working so far.


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## 123989

I use screws for the boxes. I use 1 1/2 staples for frames. No 
glue at all never have seen the need. They stay together fine.


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## Tigger19687

Frame making question...
I don't have a compressor and can not justify buying one that I will never use again. Nor can I spend that kind of money for that and a staple gun.

I don't mind buying a cheap Brad nailer for the frames but will those and Titebond2 work well enough for Deeps and mediums ?


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## My-smokepole

Sure 2 will work fine. Harbor freight staple gun, with a coupon are around $20


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## Tigger19687

TY, I should be gunning away later this afternoon


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## Tigger19687

Well, you all made me go to Harbor Freight and buy a compressor and gun to go with it 
Guess I could use it for other things in the future.
20% coupon doesn't apply to compressors  and you can only use 1 of those coupons a day  Oh well it was still cheaper then HD or Lowes


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## JWPalmer

Linda, did you get a frame jig too? Makes doing frames in groups of ten a breeze and keeps them square. I still glue and hand nail all my frames and have close to 1000 now. Figure I will only need 100 deeps per year for nuc sales at this point.


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## Tigger19687

JWPalmer said:


> Linda, did you get a frame jig too? Makes doing frames in groups of ten a breeze and keeps them square. I still glue and hand nail all my frames and have close to 1000 now. Figure I will only need 100 deeps per year for nuc sales at this point.


Ok you guys are killing me ! I don't even have room for these and my overboard buying of bodies/frames I just got today from Mann.
Maybe I can make one ?


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## Ravenseye

JWPalmer said:


> Linda, did you get a frame jig too? Makes doing frames in groups of ten a breeze and keeps them square. I still glue and hand nail all my frames and have close to 1000 now. Figure I will only need 100 deeps per year for nuc sales at this point.


I LOVE my frame jig. Especially keeping things square. I glue and staple and when the frames are done, they're square and tight. I'm a wood / wax person and I pull wire and embed so strong frames are important. I've been stapling frames for years and a good stapler with a jig makes it so easy. Full disclosure, I use lots of air tools. Roofing, siding, framing, finish, etc., so it makes good sense to extend it to beekeeping.


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## JWPalmer

I bought my jig from Brushy Mountain, but it looks just like this one from Mann Lake. Best $30 you will spend.

https://www.mannlakeltd.com/10-frame-assembly-jig


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## My-smokepole

It’s easy to make one. Make a box that will fit easily inside a frame. When you go to make frames use a bungee cord to hold the ends in place. By wrapping around the box.


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## Tigger19687

I don't have any extra wood.
But Man-O-Man that air nailer is Grand ! I did 5 bodies and 20 frames (by eye, not bad)


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## JWPalmer

When assembling the hive bodies or supers, have a framing square handy. Tap the long diagonal against a hard surface until it is square, then hit the nails again. Out of square boxes will cause nothing but problems down the road and you wont know if you don't check.


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## Tigger19687

I got a ratchet strap square and I also have a square ruler. SO I checked for square before Stapling, glue too.
While they are not perfect (because many of the board were warped a bit) they are pretty close.
Don't buy the Budget boxes at Mann, I won't again.


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## hockeyfan_019

In my view, the satisfaction you get from using your own equipment, and knowing that it's even better than what you can buy, is worth the time and effort right there. The fact that you are generally saving a bit of $$$ on materials is just gravy


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## 123989

It seems like everyone goes OCD on this stuff. I use screws..no glue and I never use a square and they do fine.


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## crofter

hockeyfan_019 said:


> In my view, the satisfaction you get from using your own equipment, and knowing that it's even better than what you can buy, is worth the time and effort right there. The fact that you are generally saving a bit of $$$ on materials is just gravy


Even if you only _think_ you are saving money it is all good! The value of creative outlet is hard to put on the scale.


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## JWPalmer

I agree with Frank that there is a huge amount of satisfaction to be had if one applies a little skill to manufacturing one's own components. I have gotten to the point that the tops, inner covers, and bottom boards I make far surpass the quality of the purched items. These items can be made much more inexpensively than if purchased. With clamps and glue and some "persuasion" I can also get the ML commercial grade boxes thay I buy to submit to my will. In addition to being square, I make sure the boxes sit flat and do not rock. Rocking boxes leave gaps when the hive bodies are stacked.


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## kilocharlie

If one is going to build a good number of hives, make up a nice, square assembly clamping block just 1/64th of an inch smaller than the inside dimensions of the hive. Surround the block with a layer of light brown plastic postal tape (easy to sponge off the glue). 

Dip the finger joints into the glue pan, assemble the sides correctly, squeegee off the excess glue (scrape it back into the glue pan), clamp it with pipe clamps, pop the first 8 to 16 staples, nails, or screws, remove the beehive from the assembly jig, check it for squareness with your framing square, complete the stapling or other fasteners, then damp sponge off any last bit of excess glue.

Building both frames and hives, I used a Hitachi narrow crown 2" stapler for frames, and a Senco 2-1/2" stapler for hive bodies and supers. I love the Hitachi, it never even blinked once. The Senco was a bit sensitive and double shot once in a while, but it drove wide crown staples better than my mentor's pro-quality guns.

A few years later, I tried the Campbell Hausfield finish nailer and was impressed how little damage it did to the wood grain compared to staples, and how well two nails splayed at slight angles to each other hold very well.

After numerous tests breaking glue joints, glue and staple joints, glue and nail joints, and glue and screw joints, I now trust either 2-1/2" long staples with Titebond III or 2 stainless nails 2-1/2" or longer at approximately 5 to 10 degrees away from each other with Titebond III. These tests were similar to the construction of my hive brood boxes and supers.

For frames, I trust 1-3/4" narrow crown staples with Titebond III. If I had the precision of nail location accurate enough to test the frames with brads, I would like to have tested them, but the stapler proved much more efficient at making the joint right the first time, due entirely to ease of locating the staple where I wanted it. 

All samples so built broke wood other than the glued and fastened joint. One instance of a frame glued only with no fasteners broke across a glued surface in the weakest area where the glue joint was smallest, so go ahead and fasten them.

In all cases, make a keen effort to ensure that wood grain near the joints is straight and free of knots. Also try to keep knots out of the rebated ledges and where hive edges touch other hive parts. Small, tight, integral knots in the middle part of a board away from joints and shape features are acceptable.

Once boards are cut and waiting assembly ("knockdown stacks"), clamp many of them together with bar clamps to prevent warping.

Over the years I've developed a preference for the cup of the wood facing in rather than out. This means that the corners all touch and the middle finger joints have the largest gaps before gluing and clamping. I mark each corner in pencil AA, BB, CC, and DD and mark inside, outside, and top before mock-up and assembly.

If an assembled box is out of square after stapling, make 4 V-blocks and use a long pipe clamp with 2 V-blocks against the narrow ends until square. Top edges may be the same or opposite as the bottom, so you may have to cross-clamp the bottom narrow corners until they also come square. Check immediately after removing from the assembly block, and again after the last staples are in, and apply the V-blocks as necessary BEFORE THE GLUE DRIES.


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## pjigar

For boxes, I don't over think! I just dip the fingers in the glue pan and assemble them with 2 3/8" galvanized ring shank framing nails. I don't even put all 4 sides together at once. I first nail one long side corners to two short sides with just one "tack" nail in the middle of each glued corner. Then put the other long side on and tack nail with two more nails. wipe oozed glue to seal the end grains. Measure for square and nail the rest of the fingers working outwards from the center nail. Add only two nails outwards from center per joint at a time to keep the joints tight. Wipe the final assembly. I tack nail on the work table and rest of the nails with box resting on the ground. No jig, no fancy clamps. I can do a box every 5 minutes.


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## Absinthe

Just thought I would add my two cents, and hadn't seen it posted yet. I have been using a combination of HF, Bostich, and Tap 18 ga brad nailers and staplers that get up to 1-1/2" or 1-1/4" depth. And they are all nice and light to throw around. But this past year I purchased (do do some ceiling and molding upstairs in my house) a used Ridgid cordless/hose-less stapler and it will shoot 2" long 18ga staples. It is a bit heavy because of the battery and internal compressor, but without a hose dragging behind I was even able to go out and attach a handle quickly while the body was on the stand. I wouldn't want to use it for 8 hours putting stuff together, but I did 8 boxes the other night with it and the trade-off of the extra weight for not having to continually hear the compressor motor kick in after every 10 shots or so was worth it. Just a note, the battery operated ones take a little more follow-through than the hose connected ones. If you move too soon it will leave the fastener proud. Think muzzle loaded black powder as opposed to center fire cartridge. Not that big of a pause, but you do get used to it. I notice it more after switching back and forth between the hosed ones.


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## Gino45

I use the 18 gauge Hitachi stapler. It's a little light for boxes. I'm not convinced that brads are strong enough. What I would get if I were doing a lot of boxes and frames would be a 16 gauge 1/2'' crown stapler. There are several brands. The downside is that they are quite a bit pricier than the 18 gauge 1/4 crown staplers.


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## kilocharlie

A few more points...

On the glue vs. fastener question - in theory, the fastener is only there to hold it in place until the glue hardens, but then weather, earthquakes, bears, vandalism, diurnal heat cycling, dryness and humidity, and other bogeys happen to it. weather attacks the wood in the joint more than the glue. Frame joints are very small, not much glue area, so it makes sense to use both the best fastener and the best glue. Which fastener is best? Small guage in fine grain, slightly larger in coarse grain, except if the wood is well seasoned - in which case pre-drill and a small-diameter screw.

Titebond II vs. Titebond III vs. other glues - Titebond III is an outdoor glue, Titebond II is not recommended for continuous outdoor use. They looked at all the desirable properties of aliphatic glue (white school glue or Elmer's) and urethane glue and combined them, while eliminating most of the undesirable traits of either in formulating Titebond III. Source after source and test after test have shown it to be superior except for one thing - DO NOT LET IT FREEZE.

Frame cutting is a lot of work, so use THE BEST WOOD YOU CAN GET if making them at home. You'll want to get maximum mileage out of them.

With beehive theft an increasing problem, DON"T even make wooden ware until you have your branding iron with you name and county beekeeper number on it ready to punch each piece, inside and out on the hive boxes.


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## TysonHoneyFarm

1beechilo said:


> making up new supers wondering what type of staple gun and size staples to use. any comments well appreciated


I bought a senco and 41 last year and it is a good tool shoots 1 1/4 to 2 inch 7/16 crown 16 ga.and it will shoot as deep and fast as you want to go. Easy tool free jam clearing easy depth adjustments and not to heavy. I think I gave somewhere close to $200 but for the number of boxes and frames we build it was a must.


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## T_om

I'm pretty sure this has been mentioned before, but if so... here is one more recommendation for this Harbor Freight 18 ga. combination staple/nailer.









18 Gauge 2-in-1 Air Nailer/Stapler


Amazing deals on this 18 Gauge 2-In-1 Air Nailer/Stapler at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




www.harborfreight.com





The thing works perfectly. And it is lightweight, something you might not appreciate unless you have a long job to do, then you will appreciate it a LOT. Don't pay much attention to the reviews complaining about sinking the nails/staples too deeply, they have no idea how to adjust the air pressure. And although the ad says the smallest staples they will take is 5/8 inch, I have zero problems at all with 1/2" staples. No problem driving the 2" brads into hardwood either. Again, people that know how to use air tools will have no problems.

Tom


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## Joseph Clemens

For the 200, custom, 10-frame deeps, I'm building, now. I'm using a Harbor Freight $20 stapler, I purchased about a decade ago. I'm using Polyurethane Gorilla Glue, because it works best to fasten styrofoam panels to the wooden hive sides. If I weren't recycling the styrofoam, like this, I'd be using Titebond III, to reinforce the 1/4" crown, 1-1/4" leg, staples, that I use to connect, wood-to-wood, until the glue cures. I use the polyurethane throughout, but especially to attach the styrofoam panels, which I first spray water under, spread the glue on the styrofoam, where it will be fastened to the wood, then weight to or clamp, until the glue cures. Water helps speed the polyurethane cure. I assemble on a sacrificial plywood benchtop, resting on custom-built sawhorses.


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## thill

I use Titebond III and 1-1/2” narrow crown staples in my boxes. Then I run (2) 2-1/2” screws into each corner for extra security, in case they ever face a serious drop. The ones without the screws seem the same, to be truthful, but it’s for my own paranoia. 

I use the same glue and staples for my frames, too. I use a 5/8” pin shooter on the wedges for the wax foundation frames. I run half crimp-wire wax and half plastic foundation. The bees love the wax and I love the plastic.

I’m a contractor, so I have a variety of guns available, but I like staples a lot. They hold very well compared to finish nails and don’t tend to split wood like ring shanks.


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## AR1

thill said:


> I use the same glue and staples for my frames, too. I use a 5/8” pin shooter on the wedges for the wax foundation frames. I run half crimp-wire wax and half plastic foundation. The bees love the wax and I love the plastic.


How do you prevent the thin wood of the frames from splitting? I bought what I thought were name-brand frames, and when I put them together found I could not use staples at all.


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## crofter

AR1 said:


> How do you prevent the thin wood of the frames from splitting? I bought what I thought were name-brand frames, and when I put them together found I could not use staples at all.


I have had a few batches of frames where that was a problem. Had read to soak the ends of sidebars in warm water for a few minutes; worked wonders.


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## thill

I've never had a single one even try to split in the slightest. It's just pop-pop and it's done. The gluing takes the longest. I'm using the standard frames from Dadant.

What kind of gun are you using? I'm using a Bostich and also a HDepot "Husky" and neither splits the wood.

Could it be that your pressure is either too high or too low? I run mine at 90 PSI.

Maybe your depth is set too deep? Mine is set for just below the surface.

Just some thoughts, but I'm curious.
Where are you stapling your frames? Straight up and down in the corners?


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## crofter

thill said:


> I've never had a single one even try to split in the slightest. It's just pop-pop and it's done. The gluing takes the longest. I'm using the standard frames from Dadant.
> 
> What kind of gun are you using? I'm using a Bostich and also a HDepot "Husky" and neither splits the wood.
> 
> Could it be that your pressure is either too high or too low? I run mine at 90 PSI.
> 
> Maybe your depth is set too deep? Mine is set for just below the surface.
> 
> Just some thoughts, but I'm curious.
> Where are you stapling your frames? Straight up and down in the corners?


Nailing is more prone to causing splits than stapling. I believe my frames that were splitting were made from what we call Jack Pine. It is very hard. Some older instructions called for small nails from the sides (shoulders) into the top bar.) Easy to have splits that way. 
Re. gluing taking the most time; agree! I put glue on every available surface. I have watched pride video bragging about how quick they assemble and their glue application is merely a token ritual.


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## AR1

thill said:


> I've never had a single one even try to split in the slightest. It's just pop-pop and it's done. The gluing takes the longest. I'm using the standard frames from Dadant.
> 
> What kind of gun are you using? I'm using a Bostich and also a HDepot "Husky" and neither splits the wood.
> 
> Could it be that your pressure is either too high or too low? I run mine at 90 PSI.
> 
> Maybe your depth is set too deep? Mine is set for just below the surface.
> 
> Just some thoughts, but I'm curious.
> Where are you stapling your frames? Straight up and down in the corners?


It's a spring loaded Stanley, not an air gun. 

Not sure what you mean by 'just below the surface'. The staples protrude just a little bit, they are not driven into the wood past the bottom edge of the staple.

Yes, straight up and down.

The wood is some sort of very light weight, soft pine. Mann Lake brand if I recall correctly.


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## thill

AR1 said:


> It's a spring loaded Stanley, not an air gun.


That must be it. I'm using air powered guns, but probably the same soft white pine frames. Sorry it's not working for you


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