# TBH Designs Wanted



## Barry

If you have a Top Bar Hive that is somewhat unique and not like any of the hives listed here (http://www.beesource.com/resources/elements-of-beekeeping/alternative-hive-designs/) and would like to have it included on this page, please contact me so I can give you the details of what I'd need from you.


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## buckbee

Mine is available for free here - http://www.lulu.com/product/ebook/how-to-build-a-top-bar-hive/6288193


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## Wits End

I used the plans in the August 2010 issue of _Bee Culture_ Magazine then added a couple of small details after watching some videos on youtube. It turned out perfect as far as design. I just hope the Bees think so. I had some old cypress fence planks I used for the long sides.http://www2.netdoor.com/~jwh/tbh.JPG


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## kenny61

Check out my hive design at http://kenny61.wordpress.com/


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## DocBB

that's what I found 

*on this blog * one on google Sketchup



http://home.comcast.net/~beekeeper23/TBH.htm
http://www.top-bar-hive.com/my-beehive/searching-for-the-right-top-bar-hive-design/
http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm
http://www.ccdemo.info/GardenBees/KTBH.html


no real science for the angles : from 0° (or 90°) (Tanzanian type) to 15°, 15.5°, 22°, 22.5° or 25° or 28.5° and 30° I couldn't find any with more than 30°


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## kenny61

Ive built that design and im leary of ever putting another TBH on legs as ive had one sink into the mud and mess up my hive with a bunch of fallen comb


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## rodger

I would like a copy of these plans


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## mmiller

kenny61 said:


> Ive built that design and im leary of ever putting another TBH on legs as ive had one sink into the mud and mess up my hive with a bunch of fallen comb


I use legs on most of mine. I use my scrap lumber under the legs when leveling the hive. It won't sink then. Frost heaves may move them a little but they won't sink and they are much more enjoyable to work.

Mike


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## MichaBees

My end result of skills and ideas learned.


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## greengecko

:thumbsup: somewhat unique...

http://www.warrebeek.com/fhhive.html


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## theDude

greengecko said:


> :thumbsup: somewhat unique...
> 
> http://www.warrebeek.com/fhhive.html


I'm preparing to start keeping bees this spring and have been looking at TBH's. This one is pretty interesting for sure.

I'm looking to go Tanzanian-style for the simple purpose of being able to put Lang supers on top and even use foundationless frames in the horizontal.

This model gave me some good ideas for the build. Thanks for posting it!

dude


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## Zonker

I'm a civil engineer, so I am constantly tinkering, so I have several TBH design plans, but .... I've only been beekeeping for several years and I don't know if the designs will make the bees happy, but ... I'd be happy to share and even happier to have a knowledgeable person correct. My email is [email protected].


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## rodger

I would like to see your plans if you can pm them to me. Rodger
[email protected]


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## WildBronco

Here is a design I have been working on.
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=d5fad1bba6ee362ec92328b011ecfbc2&prevstart=0

I hope to have it built early this Spring. I designed a type of top bar "open frame" to help support the combs and hopefully help the bees keep them straight and aligned. I will let you know if it works.


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## Zonker

hey WildB. I love the design. The frames are a great idea. I keep asking people to make suggestions about my designs but no one ever does, but I have some suggestions for yours (if it won't piss you off). (really don't want to cause offense)
1. It seems tall. Might be easier to lift lid and frames if they are a hip level
2. if you made the landing board flat you could use a boardman feeder
3. deeper frames would mean having mess with the bees less often
4. the gable vents would work better if there were corresponding soffit vents. (I'm in a hot climate to venting the attic is critical)
5. I'd use some sort of plastic for the bottom board (maybe Plexiglas) so that it doesn't warp and get stuck (yes that's a personal experience)
Anyway thanks for sharing


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## WildBronco

Hey Zonker, where can I look at your designs? I like seeing other people's ideas and concepts.
Thanks for the comments. The stand can be made to any height to suite the user. There are soffit openings for venting. I didn't mention them, but if you angle down or zoom into the roof you will see there is a continuous slot opening under the soffit. The plexiglass tray does sound like a good idea, it would stand up to moisture better too. If it was clear you could even look through it to check out the hive without opening and creating a draft.


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## Zonker

Of course you can see my designs! I've been trying to get someone knowledgeable to review them for a couple of years. I have two designs. A traditional Kenyan TBH which is sort of tricky to build if your not a woodworker and Tanzanian Hive which you can slap together in a hour in an emergency.

New at the forum thing but hopefully this link will work - http://www.box.net/shared/hkefz3qcic


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## buckbee

If you put frames in a hive, it ceases to be a top bar hive, by definition. All you have is a long hive, with frames.


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## WildBronco

I am a true novice and will defer to your expertise in the matter of the "top bar" definition. The side dowels and bottom bar that make up my "open frames" are completely optional and only to help support the comb structures to minimize comb failures. There is no foundation, so the combs within the frames would be completely bee made. I have just read a lot of people having comb failures with traditional top bar designs and thought a support structure attached to the top bar might help.


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## WildBronco

Here is a Warre inspired hive design that can use plain top bars or the custom T bars I designed for additional comb support. I am not a big fan of popsicle sticks.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=b0e7cbdf0676d8b23f33e8056745091d&prevstart=0


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## WildBronco

Here is a Kenyan style top bar hive design. It has an observation window along one side that is covered with an insulated panel which is held in place by 6 thumbscrews. The T supports on the bars are optional.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=3f34dbfc59ea54383f33e8056745091d&prevstart=0


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## Kofu

I'm planning a KTBH and used Google SketchUp to create a design for feedback here. It's a lot bigger than some, mainly because it's designed to hold medium Langstroth frames, and I'm planning to use some 1x11" boards for the sides. 

I've been reading that the total volume should be about the same as three deep supers, or a little more. In round numbers, this one is 9" deep, 24.5" across at the top, and 14.5" across at the bottom. At 48" long, that makes about 8,500 cubic inches, or about 140 liters. That's not huge, right?

The idea with the medium frames is that I can do a hybrid approach, perhaps even put a medium super on top of that part of the TBH -- to install a nuc, to make splits, etc. This idea started with two videos at the Barefoot Beekeeper website, 

Converting from Frames to Top-Bars the Easy Way (Two Parts)

So I had a idea to put a sort of half-box (cutting the box diagonally) for 14" along the insides of the TBH, to hold a set of Langstroth frames. Allowing for ~3/8" beespace at the lower corners of the frames, angling the walls at 60 degrees, and using the 11" boards, produces the following design:










I can peg the half-boxes on the edge of the TBH, and drop the medium frames down between them, I think. I might let the bees put comb on the bottom of the frames, or put a false floor 3/8" below (not shown in the diagram).

But most of the TBH, or all of it, will be regular top bars, with comb up to 9" deep and 24" across at the top. Too big?

The vertical parts of the half-boxes are two layers of 3/8" plywood, offset to create a 5/8" deep perch for the ends of the frames. I figure I can put screws through the plywood into the horizontal bar, and (not shown) plug in the triangular space at each end. (I'm looking at construction details, pdfs from here on BeeSource, for the specs.) In effect, it's sort of an inside-out box to hold the frames.

I think it's not as complicated as it looks. Wondering what problems people see. If the space under the half-boxes is closed in, does that create a refuge for vermin? If I leave it open and the bees go under there, can I hope that they'll patrol for vermin, and I can leave whatever they decide to build down there (until I take it all out)?


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## Zonker

You really don't need sloped sides. Adds a lot of hassle to using lang frames. The bees aren't fooled by sloped sides and attach anyway. 

Cornell thinks bees prefer 40 liters. (I guess it makes sense the European bees would be on the metric system)

This is my solution to the same problem. http://www.box.net/shared/hkefz3qcic


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## Kofu

Thanks, Zonker. I'm a newbie and wide open to discussion. 

One thing I heard is that sloped sides make it easier to cut the bars with comb attached on the sides, and pull them without banging them on the sides. Also that a longer bar at the top has a better hold on the comb.

The Compleate Idiot's Guide says to "think in terms of three deep Langstroth boxes (about 7,800 cubic inches)." I've seen some stuff around the web that says 'natural' hives (the kind bees build for themselves) can be a lot smaller, like maybe 40-60 liters, but 7800 cubic inches is about 128 liters.

I'm also wondering, with this design, if the bees in it would have advantages or disadvantages in getting through the winter. The closer to round, the less surface area for the amount of volume... But might they get lost, divide up, in such a large round space?

Here's the link to the SketchUp model (finally figured how to post it). I'll look for discussion of it here.


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## buckbee

Anyone interested may like to know that I have just finished a revision of the FREE ebook - How To Build A Toip Bar Hive - which is now available from here:

http://www.lulu.com/content/e-book/how-to-build-a-top-bar-hive/815182


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## velacreations

Here's a super simple, super cheap version made from a barrel:

http://www.velacreations.com/bees.html


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## SusanD

I really didn't really plan to have this shape of a top bar hive, but when the top bar that I purchased on ebay turned out to be (what I considered to be) too shallow, I added a riser (with extra windows). The bees seem happy, and haven't attached to the sides much - the one place that they did attach was where the queen cage was hanging next to the glass when I installed the package this spring. Having windows on both sides makes it really easy to get enough light to see what they're doing - and it gives me access to both sides of the cluster.

I should say I'm very new to beekeeping, so this is completely untested, but the bees that reside in the hive look pretty happy. You can see the hive at www.mybeegarden.com.

-- Susan


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## Ruby

Mine are extremely basic, made for someone who is at best a hack carpenter. All you need is a table saw and driver drill:
http://www.sparkybeegirl.com/ktbs-plans-new.pdf
I have never attached the legs, mine sit on aluminum stands ( weded together by my boyfriend and sitting in ant moats as the ants are dreadful here in the Bay Area of California
Some pictures here:
http://www.rogueruby.com/beepix.html
Happy Beekeeping! Ruby

4 top bar hives: two in oakland, two in san anselmo all thriving!


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## Mtedcarr4

Good dezigns evrey1 . kenny61, I realy like your roof . WildBronco , your dezign is concidered a long hive . It shold offer top bar manipulation with lang compatability So if that is what you want, go for it . The roof may be slopet for snow , but down here in FL that space will give a place for pest to live . Frames are still a good idea, I have notised wth my honey bars some attachment to the sides.


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## FordPrefect

Here is nice top bar designed by my brother in law, let me know what you guys think about it?

1. Cedar boxes
2. Green treated Legs
3. 8/1 screen on bottom
4. Bottom board swings down for cleaning
5. Pine framing for roof structure
6. Cedar Roof
7. Viewing window w/ removable cover
8. Entrance on end w/ landing board
9. Vented roof
10. 2 blank follower boards
11. 1 feeder follower board
12. 14 hooped frames
13. 14 blank 1 1/4" top boards


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## FordPrefect




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## Kofu

Seems like, if the bees have a chance to get in to the area above the bars, they'll hang a lot of comb from inside the roof.


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## Zonker

I think your bother in law is assume. I particularly love the top bars he made. I would suggest a pair of gable vents in the roof to keep the attic dry in the winter.


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## FordPrefect

Zonker said:


> I think your bother in law is assume. I particularly love the top bars he made. I would suggest a pair of gable vents in the roof to keep the attic dry in the winter.


The roof is vented, original design used two round holes on either side with screening...the bars were designed so that we can re-use, meaning uncapped the honey comb, then use centrifuge to harvest the honey, also more stable comb, no sticking to the sides of the hive.


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## FordPrefect

Kofu said:


> Seems like, if the bees have a chance to get in to the area above the bars, they'll hang a lot of comb from inside the roof.


No chance, sealed, very tight tolerances.


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## My Local Bees

Here is my latest TBH design. T-Slant TBH design. I have slanted the hive and have cut steps for the bars to rest in. One of these hives have overwintered last winter; this winter I have three of them. My thought on the design was that the bees would work from the top downward, but not sure there is enough of a slant to make a difference. One thing I did notice is that the bees tended not to cross the comb onto multiple bars because of the position of the bars. This is a learning experience.

Doug

mylocalbees.wordpress.com


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## Michael Bush

>My thought on the design was that the bees would work from the top downward, but not sure there is enough of a slant to make a difference.

In my opinion, the idea that bees won't move horizontally is a figment of the imagination of people who have never had a horizontal hive... I don't think the slant will make any difference.


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## Bush_84

I think you missed the whole vertical thing. Just because you prop up one side does not mean that the bees are moving in a vertical plane. When people say that bees prefer to move vertical they mean in alignment when the comb. The only vertical top bar hive that I know of is the Warre hive.


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## Zonker

Don't listen to these guys. Go for it. More than half the fun is experimenting. Your neighbors won't recognize it as a bee hive which could have big advantages.


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## My Local Bees

Thank you for the comments. I will have more information after next season. 

Doug

mylocalbees.wordpress.com


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## My Local Bees

Zonker said:


> Your neighbors won't recognize it as a bee hive which could have big advantages.


That is the best part. Their first question is where do I keep my bees and are surprised when I point to these funny looking boxes. 

Doug

mylocalbees.wordpress.com


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## Bush_84

Hey I am all for experimenting. I was simply stating that when discussing vertical people mean that bees move easier when they don't have to cross comb in the winter. Even if you prop one end up really high the bees still align their comb with gravity. So the bees will still have to cross comb in order to get to the other side of the hive. Now I'll tell you that I have a TBH in MN going into its first year. Has been a mild winter thus far, but bees are still alive.


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## bee-green

https://picasaweb.google.com/118402086787749507100/WarreHiveAndAcrylic?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Warre- observation hive


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## bee-green

https://picasaweb.google.com/118402086787749507100/Loghive?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Loghive


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## mrjackcoleman

Several very good designs. You all are talented. For me, buckbee's design is a very appealing TBH. I like this simple, cost effective, design and it looks pleasant to my eyes. This design has fewer cuts and angles and if I make a flat roof it's even cheaper. Thanks.


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## mrjackcoleman

Velacreations: Great idea using the barrel; well documented process. Thx.


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## Terra Vita

I posted recently my new Vita Hive (TBH) here's the link

Pictures...
3 X 3D models iv'e made 
6 X finished product

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?265029-NEW-Top-Bar-Hive-(Vita-Hive)


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## mrjackcoleman

Design by Beev! He was kind enough to send it to me and I only made a slight modification to the bee entrance. The one pictured is made out of sassafras, except for the legs and about ten bars. I still have to add a latch to both sides of the box to secure the roof, then give it a good coat of oil based paint on the outside.


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## georgeIDH

Thought I'd throw my modified barrel top bar hive design in the mix...

Main modifications are an addition of a divider within the hive, using a chicken water feeder with syrup inside to get them started, screened vent in the base, re-sizable entrance reducer, and of course a chicken coop.

Have several entries describing the process of building these here: http://www.independencehomestead.com/category/beekeeping/

Bees have been in them for 3 weeks now and both hives are doing very well.

Chickens are currently in a box in basement growing up to be ready to go outside in about 3-4 more weeks.


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## BoBn

*Saw Buck Base*

My top bar hives I build with independent stands. I used white cedar based on one of my saw bucks like this:









I built them like this out of reject twisted, warped and bowed pieces of wood:

















Here is one of the hives sitting on a base. This is how the hive made it through the winter here in zone 4 except in the winter I only had 1/2 of a cork opening:









My top bars are Langstroth width 1&1/4" wide. Any new bars I will make 1" and use spacers. If I pull out some of the spacers, it would allow the function of supering with Langstroth boxes, or nadiring a top bar hive from a Langstroth box.


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## Jeff F.

*Re: Saw Buck Base*

That's a truly great TBH BoBn, nice and simple. Excuse me while I run into the backyard and build one now!

Rgds: Jeff


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## Tracer

*Re: Saw Buck Base*

I'm lovin' all these TBH designs. The barrels got me wondering about the feasibility of using a 4 ft long +/- tree trunk, ripped in half and hollowed/dug out. Diameter might need to be around 30 in. My neighbor has a felled hickory tree I can have . . . This sounds so crazy, it just might work . . . Anyone else?


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## buckbee

*Re: Saw Buck Base*

Here is my latest YouTube video showing my experimental 'deep floor', which is designed to encourage an ecosystem to develop inside the hive, while maintaining and stabilizing the internal temperature and humidity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWB-pdlqeFQ


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## Stuart

Here's a simple design that I use with an optional screen bottom and stand. It's based on a Dr. Wyatt A. Mangum presentation (and now book). It's very practical because it uses dimensional lumber. The front and rear could be square but I like the way the angles look. The stand is also pretty simple, very stable, and it slips off for easy transport. I'm a strong advocate of a light weight roof that provides good ventilation. I simply keep a few spare bars (and spacers) on the top of each hive so I use them to support the roof and provide ventilation. Bricks/limbs/firewood are my norm for holding the roof down but if I kept hives where people couldn't see them I'd tie the roofs down.

A few things you might notice from the hive pic are the robber screens in place, I use sponges for entrance reducers, the first bar is a sideways so it's easy to enter from the front, the next few are lang bars with 1/8 inch spacers (from a cut nuc). I'm now building these without screen bottoms because my queens seem to be hygienic and I sample varroa using the sugar shake method. I'm also getting away screens because they provide refuge to SHBs and moths. Landing boards could easlily be added by attaching a shortened top bar below the holes. If you include them make sure to place them below the holes so water won't enter the hive. 





















Stuart


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## Horst

Hello friends of TBH,
My design is based on Dadant, all compatible with honey rooms, floor board, etc.
Greetings from the black bee Germany, Horst


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## DocBB

Since the "warrebeek" site seems to have completely disappeared I went back to my notes and began to work on *a sketchup design*. from pictures I kept on my HD.











I designed 33mm bars (a Perone influence I guess) instead of 32mm in the original



> The Frankenhive can contain up to three separate colonies.
> Each colony can be managed separately as a simple horizontal top-bar hive, nadired with occupied Warré hive boxes or supered with empty Warré hive boxes. The Frankenhive can be used for activities such as feeding or splitting a nucleus and raising queens.
> 
> FEATURES
> 
> Floor: flat, 38 mm thick
> Entrance: multiple side and end entrances, each a combination of 19 mm diameter entrance holes, #9 tapered natural cork plugs
> Hive-Body Box: variable shape and size, maximum W 28 x H 35 x L 99 cm internal dimensions, adjustable follower boards, 38 mm thick exterior walls
> Comb Support: removable top-bars with 9 mm bee space
> Comb Spacing: variable on-center spacing, 32 mm in the broodnests and 38 mm in the honey storage areas
> Comb Height: uninterrupted to 35 cm in main box
> Cover: coarse cloth on top-bars, wood edged quilt boxes containing natural insulating material retained with coarse cloth
> Roof: gabled roof with ventilated cavity
> Management: horizontal, nadired and/or supered, "Nestduftwärmebindung" retained within the hive
> Wintering: flexible
> Harvest: raw, cut comb and drained pressed comb


Management (sorry I didn't keep the pictures but it is easily comprehensive)



> Frankenhive Management Strategies
> The Frankenhive can contain up to three separate colonies. Each colony can be managed separately as a simple horizontal top-bar hive, nadired with occupied Warré hive boxes or supered with empty Warré hive boxes.
> The following photos illustrate different management strategies.
> 
> SINGLE TIER MANAGEMENT STRATEGIES
> The single tier Frankenhive can be divided with follower boards into one, two or three separate compartments. Each compartment has a separate entrance, either side or end.
> A colony, illustrated in yellow, can be confined to a single compartment by using a follower board.
> A second colony can occupy a second compartment by using a follower board.
> A third colony can occupy a third compartment.
> A single colony can expand horizontally as desired by moving the follower board.
> An expanding colony and a confined colony can occupy the hive separated by a follower board as shown.
> A single colony can be confined to the center compartment for added thermal efficiency during winter.
> 
> DOUBLE TIER MANAGEMENT STRATEGIES
> Adding three separate second tier hive boxes on top of the first tier hive box expands the management strategies. The follower boards within the first tier can be aligned with the hive box sidewalls of the second tier. Again each compartment has a separate entrance, either side or end.
> An empty second tier hive box placed on the first tier hive box can super a colony located in a first tier hive compartment.
> Two empty second tier hive boxes placed on the first tier hive box can super an expanded colony located in the first tier hive.
> A hive box containing an existing colony, illustrated in orange, can be placed on top of the first tier hive box. The colony can build from the hive box downward into a first tier compartment nadiring the existing colony.
> A second tier hive box colony can be nadired, illustrated in orange, while a colony occupies a separate compartment, illustrated in yellow.
> A second tier hive box colony can be nadired, illustrated in orange, while a first tier colony, illustrated in yellow, is supered.
> Two empty second tier hive boxes placed on the first tier hive box can super an expanded colony located in the first tier hive while a second tier hive box colony is nadired.
> A single colony can be confined to the center compartment of the first and second tier for added thermal efficiency during winter.
> A single colony can be confined to the center compartment for added thermal efficiency during winter while supplemental honey, illustrated in orange, is provided from a second tier hive box.
> Adding additional hive boxes make a third and even fourth tier possible. The Frankenhive can be used for activities such as feeding or splitting a nucleus and raising queens.


PS: it is designed in mm, to help people from Fahrenheitland I give this little trick : just select all, copy the model, open a new (empty) sketchup file and paste : magic ! all measurments become Imperial !


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## DocBB

a little picture update


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## Montyb

Here's mine, got plans from backyardhive.com and modified it. Used 2 x12 for one of mine and doubled it to two 2 x 12 on next. Both had winter survivor bees in spring.


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## DRay

Some great ideas here. I plan on modeling a couple TBHs similar to Philip Chandler's design at biobees.com. However, I'm not quite sold on the eco-floor. Instead, I'd like to accomplish something like a freeman bottom board under my screen in order to help with varroa and shb issues. And also close it off for the winter. 

I did see something on http://paradisenectar.com/pricing but I have not seen any real plans for this. 

Anyone have any thoughts? photos? plans?

Thanks!


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## ShannaRose

I have always wanted to learn woodworking, and becoming a beekeeper and the increasing need and expense of more top bar hives got me going on it. I used the basic design from Phil Chandler's Biobees site, and added a drawer below the screened bottom for catching mites and beetles that fall into the diatomaceous earth in the tray. I bought some basic tools (drill and driver) and a very small battery powered circular saw. It took me a long time but I enjoyed the process and learned sooo much! It's like learning to sew on a sewing machine- only with wood!


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