# How to get bees out of tree trunk



## Tom Fran

I have received a call from a local golf course regarding some honeybees located in a tree trunk. They would like the bees removed from the tree, as they are bothering some of the golfers (and some of the golfers are bothering the bees ). 

The bees are entering an opening which is barely big enough to reach your hand into. The tree is alive, and they do not want it damaged. It is in the bottom of the tree trunk, close to the ground. There would not be a way to reach into the tree to get the comb out.

What can be done to get the bees out of the tree? I would really appreciate any advice you all may have.

Thanks!


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## alpha6

You can do a trap out, I attached a link of a vid of one being done. That's about the only way. You will get most of the bees but maybe not the queen...then seal up the entrance. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I6Ip-SWBlE


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## Tom Fran

So, you plug up the opening into the tree and set a 10 frame box outside for them to go into? Is that it?

Do you put lemongrass oil lure into the box to lure them into it?


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## HONEYDEW

Don't plug it up until you get most of the bees, you make a wire mesh funnel, the bees can come out but not back in. I don't think you get the queen though and it takes more than one day, definitely not worth doing unless the price is right..


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## Tom Fran

Is there a "how to" somewhere on doing a "trap out?"


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## Bsweet

Tom do a net search for 'Beekeeping Forums an international community of beekeepers, they have a good how to thread. Jim


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## Tom Fran

Jim, Thanks a bunch for the tip! I just watched a great how to video on the subject of trap outs. It was very helpful.


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## throrope

Send them The march NatGeo article on polination, remind them their course would look like crap without them and include a link to order a caution bee hive sign.


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## Tom Fran

throrope,

Actually, I think I'm going to recommend something along that line. The tutorial I just viewed said the average trap out takes 6-9 weeks. If I put a hive box where this tree is located, I believe somebody will mess with it or steal it before I can catch the bees. So, I believe that I'll just recommend that they put some shrubs around the tree or, as you suggested, a sign of some sort to caution the golfers. The greens-keeper did not want to just kill the bees.


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## tommyt

Iddee's trapout method works good the first 2 days you have a good amount of bees on the outside of the cone/hive
after that the bees are leaving the tree and return to the new Hive entrance 
I am doing 2 right now I went today and my eggs had been turned to Q cells and they were hatching out 
I closed the box back up and walked off
There is also another video of him explaining the cone and more,look for JP the beeman videos "bud3"

Tommyt


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## Tom Fran

Tommyt, Thanks for the tip. I'll get over there and check that out!


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## Daddy'sBees

Forget the trap out. My people want them out now! And here's how:

Drill a small hole through the trunk, into an area that might be near the end of the comb/hive area (Best guess sometimes). Pump some "Bee Quik" in the hole. Spray some compressed air (a can from a computer store) into the hole to push the scent into their area. Get on the entrance of the hive and vacuum like crazy. You cannot vacuum them up fast enough if this is done correctly! Repeat Bee Quik spraying and use of compressed air as needed. Done!!! You got them all and quickly!!!


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## Michael Bush

I don't know how well the "bee quick" works as I haven't tried it, but my guess is the trap out is not going to fly. It takes too long and leaves a lot of flying bees during that time as they are confused and circling looking for a hive. I don't think that will fly on a golf course.


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## HONEYDEW

Yes sad as it is sometimes a handfull of Seven dust and a can of expanding foam are all that can be done...But still charge nicely for making the course a "safer" place


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## Michael Bush

Not saying it won't still be too many flying bees, but I sometimes just put up a cone and every night brush the bees into a box and take them home. That way you rapidly remove a lot of bees without killing them. Then I just dump them in front of the hives.


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## summer1052

Well, along the lines of the "Bee Quick" solution, I can offer this. Now mind you, I only do this if I'm faced with hysteria from people asking when I can come spray the bees. I can't, and I won't, although I do reciprocal referrals with a couple of pest control guys if I come across a really hot hive. This will work -- but if you are in an area with lots of other potential nest sites handy, it may only be a temporary solution. I have not yet had the chance to try it with a trap out set up.

From Mr. Mertz, my beloved 97 1/2 year old bee mentor, this is the method he's used for 70 + years. From a feed & seed store, purchase some small chunk, or powdered sulfur. In a sturdy metal container, light the sulfur. (I use charcoal incense starters for ease of use.) Chunks work better for this. They won't flame, but smolder. Place the chunks in or near the entrance to the tree. The smoke and smell of fire and brimstone is as obnoxious to them, as to us. But it usually serves to evacuate them. DO NOT leave the smoldering sulfur behind. It can start a fire. I am told that at one time, "smoking" used frames this way, then placing in a closed trunk was how one stored them for winter, to keep out wax moths. 

I like the idea of the sign and educational opportunity here. Get the local paper involved with a story, photos, and info on how useful the bees are. "Aren't we lucky to have wild hives in our area, when the bee population is in crisis all around the country!? See how green we are? Hooray for us!"


summer


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## Tom Fran

Thanks to all of you for the great "tech support." I do appreciate the help!


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