# vaporizer



## danno (Dec 17, 2007)

I have not used this vaporizer. I have used a Heilyser for about 5 years on 50 - 70 colonies, 3 times a week apart, twice a year. I like the clean look of snl's without a glow plug. I like the idea that it can just be dunked in water to clean and cool. The Heilyser can only be dabbed with a wet rag. They state that it takes 3 minutes to subliminate a dose which is 1+ minutes longer that the Heilyser. They also state no glow plug to burn out but mine has never died and if it does it can be replces for cheap. I would imagine that if the heater in snl's dies you would throw the whole unit away. Price in the 2 units is close enough not to be a issue. I think if I was in the market for a unit I would give this one a chance


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Danno,

I dunk my Heilyser all the time to cool and clean it after each hive, no problems here!! What I do is carry a small bucket with about 2" of water in it, after the OA treatment is done I take the unit out, dunk it in the bucket, scrape off dead bees/residue with a twig, reload and go onto the next hive. As long as the glow plug doesnt get wet (only the burn pan)its all good!

I am curious though, on a double deep configuration with that particular dose of OA (2 scoops) how long is it taking your unit to burn completely? I have been leaving the unit on for about 1 1/2 minutes to get complete burn off then I let the turned off unit sit in the hive for another 30 seconds before pulling it out.

I am happy with the heilyser unit, but wouldnt be afraid of trying SNL's vaporizer either.


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## danno (Dec 17, 2007)

BeeGhost
I was told not to dunk it and just figured the glow plug was the reason. Dunking would make it so much easier and cleaner. I will start doing that. I have also always sealed them up for 10 minutes after the burn. I do run mine for 2 minutes and its always completely subliminated. 1 1/2 would most likely be enough. I know 1 minutes is not


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## WWW (Feb 6, 2011)

danno, 
Like BeeGhost I dunk my Heilyser up to the plug and then wipe it out between hives, this doesn't seem to hurt it any. You will find that if you pull it from the hive after a 30 second cool down it is more than enough time for the Oxalic chrystals to settle in the hive.


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## Rube63 (Jun 28, 2010)

what is snl


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

"snl" is a Beesource member ID. You can see his vaporizer listing in the Beesource _For Sale_ forum, here:

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?289790-Varrocleaner-Oxalic-Acid-Vaporizer


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## Rube63 (Jun 28, 2010)

TY


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## danno (Dec 17, 2007)

I have dunked mine to the plug but usually just use a wet rag. If anyone buys one of SNL's I would like to know the width and height of the pan. It really does look like it would take more abuse then the Heilyser.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

The pan on the Varrocleaner vaporizer is 2" x 1 7/16" x 5/16"

There is some feedback on the vaporizer on Ebay....


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## BudsBees (Mar 10, 2013)

If there is not a glow plug. How does it heat up


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

It uses resistance heating.......


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## BudsBees (Mar 10, 2013)

Can you send pics of resistance heating unit? I'm not familiar with it.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Can't send you pics other than the unit itself, but you can see it on Ebay. You can Google "resistance heating" and get the idea (and some pics).

Larry


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

An electric toaster is an example of an "electric resistance heater". A glow plug is also an example of an electric resistance heater.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug


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## RonnieS (Sep 12, 2012)

I just now bought one on ebay and am glad to support someone who assists here.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

RonnieS said:


> I just now bought one on ebay and am glad to support someone who assists here.


Thank-you! Your vaporizer will ship today!

Larry


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## RonnieS (Sep 12, 2012)

Much appreciated !!!!!


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## BudsBees (Mar 10, 2013)

I build my vaporizer's. Just wondering if resistance heating would be better.


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## RonnieS (Sep 12, 2012)

Received my vaporizer yesterday. I ran a test hooked up to my mower battery with a double deep load of OA and am impressed! I had used a copper crack pipe type last week, and there is no comparison. Vaporization started at about 1 minute, and was done just after 2 minutes. Huge amount of vapor compared to the pipe. The unit is slim and looks well built.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Thanks for posting your review RonnieS. I'm glad it met your performance expectations. It should last you for years.

Larry


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## shinbone (Jul 5, 2011)

I just finished using the Varroacleaner sold by SNL to do my first ever OA treatment on my dozen hives. The process was easy and the Varroacleaner worked perfectly!

My hive entrances are narrow, but the Varroacleaner easily slides in, which is why I chose it over the taller Heilyser unit. Before using the Varroacleaner in a hive for the first time, I did a test run out in the open with 1/2 teaspoon of OA to make sure I understood the process and that everything was working ok. There was complete vaporization of the OA right at 2.5 minutes, just like the instructions on the box said. 

When using in a hive, after the 2.5 minute vaporization time period, I de-power the unit and wait another minute or two, and then withdraw and plunge the Varroacleaner pan into a bucket of water to cool it and clean it, followed by a quick wipe with a tee-shirt. 

I power the Varroacleaner with jumper cables attached to the battery in my car through a 50' 12 gauge extension cord. The 50' extension cord is necessary because my hives are on my roof, and I can drive the car only so close to the building. Since I drive the car everyday, the battery powering the Varroacleaner is always freshly charged. I am not sure how much resistive losses I get through the long extension cord, but everything works as expected, so far.

It seems the bees hardly notice the OA fumes vaporized into their hive. In fact, I would say inserting the Varroacleaner pan into the hive is more disruptive than the OA fumes.

I did not do recent mite counts before OA vaporization, but I am getting mite drops in the visually-estimated low-100's within 24 hours of the first treatment on a well populated double-deep 10-frame hive, so I know it is working.

Last year I treated mites using Apiguard. That treatment worked well. This year I choose OA vaporization over Apiguard because I can use OA at lower ambient temperature, you don't have to open the hive to administer it, and my on-line research suggested that OA fumes are less disruptive to the hive than the thymol fumes of Apiguard (which my initial experience bears out), and OA is a little better at knocking back the mites. Not to mention that OA vaporization is cheaper than Apiguard once you get past the first handful of treatments.

So far, the Varroacleaner and OA vaporization have met my expectations.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Shinebone,
Thanks for posting your results on using the Varrocleaner. It's great to see feedback like yours when you're selling a product.

Larry


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## sfisher (Sep 22, 2009)

Does anyone use The OA vaporizer with screen bottom boards, If you do what is your procedure?


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

The idea is to keep the vapor in the hive for up to 10 min. even the entrance is closed up. Not sure how effective it would be with an open bottom to the hive. One thought. Can you make a board that will cover the screen in your bottom board long enough o do the treatment?


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

sfisher;1016031 Does anyone use The OA vaporizer with screen bottom boards /QUOTE said:


> I use a piece of aluminum flashing to cover the SBB. It's thin and works fine. It is about an inch smaller than the width of the hive. You could also use HEAVY DUTY aluminun foil fitted the same way. The foil is more difficult to work with as it flexes but it'll do just fine.
> 
> The hive does not have to sealed to the nth degree. Small openings are ok.


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## DPBsbees (Apr 14, 2011)

I used the Varrox vaporizer for the first time today. You can tell from the construction that it is a quality product. It vaporized the 2 grams of oxalic acid in the 2 1/2 minutes advertised and after another two minutes you take it out, plunge it in water, wipe it off, and treat the next hive. It took me longer to get my gear together, and get the mouse guards off, than to treat the hives. I'm looking forward to seeing the mite drop over the next week.


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## Greg D (Jun 7, 2013)

Used my Varrocleaner on two hives. 2 1/2 minute treatment, let rest in hive another 2 minutes, quick wipe with damp cloth then on to 2nd hive. Works great. Used jumper cables from tractor battery. No problems.


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## Belewsboy (Jun 6, 2012)

In the past I used formic acid and HBH on a fume board. A fair amount of trouble and may have lost a queen in the process, but always had good mite drops. Last month I bought the Varrox and brought along my lawn mower battery to the hives. I put the IPM boards under the SBB's and followed the instructions for double deeps. It was fast, clean and easy. Had fairly high mite drops considering the small number of bees in each hive. If you decide to treat, I think this is probably the easiest way to do it and aside from buying the unit itself, is very cheap to do. I'm happy with the Varrox.
I do have a question, though...after a period of time, does the OA residue in the hive become inert? What becomes of it?


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Belewsboy said:


> I do have a question, though...after a period of time, does the OA residue in the hive become inert? What becomes of it?


From what I'm told, the residual OA is carried outside hive.......

Glad you like the Varrox vaporizer. As you said, after the purchase of the vaporizer, the cost of OA is pennies per hive.


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## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

I recently purchased the VarroaCleaner from SNL and I have to say his customer service, extra effort at prompt shipping and responsiveness to my boat-load of questions was outstanding. Thank you!

I do have another question based the answer above about how the OA residue gets out of the hive. If it is carried out (presumably by the bees?), what happens if it's still generally too cold for the bees to go outside of the hive very often (obviously the treatment day has to be warmer, but those days are still few and far between in my far north area.) Would a mid-winter treatment result in an (unhealthy?) excess of OA until warmer weather allows more flights?

I'm such a (dithering) Nervous Nellie! But I do hate those mites. 

Enj.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

If it where to cold for the bees to be getting out of the hive. I would not be treating.


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