# Storing Mated Queens?



## O'Quinn (Oct 20, 2009)

Absolutely. This is know as "banking" queens.


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## Riskybizz (Mar 12, 2010)

What's a whole bunch? How are they being caged? Are there attendants inside the cages ? Or are they in a shipping box with loose attendants?


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## ilivetobealive (May 2, 2011)

Riskybizz said:


> What's a whole bunch? How are they being caged? Are there attendants inside the cages ? Or are they in a shipping box with loose attendants?


26 Queens 
California mini cages with loose attendants in box, not in cages.


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

you can keep them in the shipping box in your house for up to a week. Just make sure you offer them a little water or honey and those workers in the box will do the rest.


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## ilivetobealive (May 2, 2011)

ruthiesbees said:


> you can keep them in the shipping box in your house for up to a week. Just make sure you offer them a little water or honey and those workers in the box will do the rest.


If that's the case it sounds like they will be fine for 24-48 hours until the storms pass. We're looking at full sunshine, without a storm in site, starting this Wednesday.


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## johnmcda (Aug 10, 2015)

We've had a lot of problems with queens being released from the California cages too quick and being balled. We are now taping the candy with electricians tape for three days to prevent premature release - that's working!


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## ilivetobealive (May 2, 2011)

Scratch that. They shipped in JB ZB cages per the invoice I got today.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the JB ZB have longer candy tubes?


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## Riskybizz (Mar 12, 2010)

I highly recommend using introduction cages for installing your queen's. We remove the cage after 4 days and let them walk out. BE SURE to check for any fresh eggs before releasing her.


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## ilivetobealive (May 2, 2011)

Riskybizz said:


> I highly recommend using introduction cages for installing your queen's. We remove the cage after 4 days and let them walk out. BE SURE to check for any fresh eggs before releasing her.


Could be fun to try in the future, but I've never had an issue introducing queens "the old fashioned way". Plus, queens will be here in the morning. Doubt I could make up 30 introduction cages by then


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

I highly recommend introducing your queens at least 2 hours after the current queens have been removed, and under a push-in cage that has no candy plug.

I made up a batch of Laidlaw cages, which are made of wood 7/8" square in cross section and fashioned into a rectangle 5 inches by 7 inches. The top is covered by #8 hardware cloth, the bottom has a rim of sheet metal that protrudes 3/8 inch below the wood.

Brush all the bees off of a comb of emerging brood that has a small amount of honey and pollen in it. Place the queen on the comb and carefully cover her with the cage, pushing down so that the wood bottoms out against the comb. You'll probably have to remove one frame from the hive so it fits.

Leave her under the cage in the hive for several days, then peek to see if the worker bees are forming an attack ball, or if they are attending and feeding her. You don't even have to pull up the frame, you'll be able to tell.

Do not release the queen until they are attending her through the screen. If you pull up the comb with the Laidlaw cage on it, you are looking for eggs under the cage. The emerging bees will accept her as momma, and when she starts laying eggs, her pheromone level will increase substantially, bringing about acceptance. 

If you see anything remotely resembling an attack ball, do not release her. The behaviors are entirely different.

**********************************************

Regarding queen banking, see the following...

www.honeybeeinsemination.com

look across the bar on the top of the page, and click on "resources". Scroll down to "Resources - general" and open the 4th entry, 

Cobey, S. (2005). A versatile queen rearing and banking system - Part II - conclusion: Use of the "Cloake Board" for banking purposes. American Bee Joiurnal 145 (5): 385 - 386.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

You can keep them in the cages for a week or so. Just give each cage a drop of water. That assumes, of course, attendants and candy in the cages... They will do best if they are somewhere at about room temperature and dark and quiet.


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## ilivetobealive (May 2, 2011)

Michael Bush said:


> You can keep them in the cages for a week or so. Just give each cage a drop of water. That assumes, of course, attendants and candy in the cages... They will do best if they are somewhere at about room temperature and dark and quiet.


They were in JB BZ cages with loose attendants. However, the weather cleared up and I was able to get them all in their new homes.

I peeked into one of the re queened hives today as I was concerned about acceptance. I've found that very hot hives can be difficult to requeen but they were tending to her quite nicely. I split out the hive to make it smaller as well, which I've also found has increased acceptance in hotter hives.

I wasn't able to get one queen in, next to the hot hive, since I was taking stings through my jeans, ears where the mesh touched, etc etc. Mean bees make me dislike our hobby!
The hot hive was much nicer today and I was able to get into the hive next to it to remove the queen. I'll place the new one in later tonight or tomorrow morning. I like them to get a little helpless before giving hives a new queen. The lone queen spent the night in the box with the attendance and placed in a quiet, dark place.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

Looks like it is time that you invest in a 2-ply ventilated kangaroo brand full suit. Have not been stung ever since I
bought this suit.


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## ilivetobealive (May 2, 2011)

beepro said:


> Looks like it is time that you invest in a 2-ply ventilated kangaroo brand full suit. Have not been stung ever since I
> bought this suit.


I've never had the need for a full suit! Hopefully the old bed will die out and new, nicer, bees will replace them soon!


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