# Migratory Lid Plans



## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Depending on the frames and the frame rests and the boxes, some boxes end up with 1/4" beespace at the top. This is adequate. Some end up with less and then bees get squished. I end up with some migratory covers with a spacer glued and nailed around the edge and some without for that reason.

My favorite are to take some 3/4" Exterior plywood and cut it 16 1/4" by 21 5/8" and cut two one by twos 16 1/4" and nail then on edge for cleats. The plywood warps less than anything else. Otherwise you need to make them out of tongue and groove pine.

I also make some lighter ones (that blow off eaiser) out of 1/4" laun. They are nice for hiving swarms and such because they are lighter in weight and easy to carry around. The laun plywood is exterior glue also and stands up well to the weather.


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## Patrick Scannell (Jul 3, 2004)

Thanks for explaining that. It seems like it is most desirable to have 1/4 inch free above the frames.

I'm asking because this winter I'd like to put my hives up against each other in groups of 3 or 4 to preserve warmth for over-wintering. The telescoping lids get in the way.


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## JPMHIN (Sep 3, 2013)

More pics from the web (dimensioned)









Material List:

pine
2 - 3/4 x 2 1/4 x 16 1/4 (14'' 8 frame) - gooved 3/4 x 1/4'' deep
2 - 3/4 x 2 x 16 1/4 (14'' 8 frame)

marine plywood (or equivalent timber)
1 - 3/4 x 20 7/8 x 16 1/4 (10 frame) (x 14 - 8 frame)


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## MattDavey (Dec 16, 2011)

This is mine, see the link for more information. It can be used as a top entrance and also as a base as well, I just use a hive mat with them (sheet of vinyl placed directly on top of the frames with a gap around the outsides).

http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...urpose-Hive-Lid-Base-with-Top-Bottom-entrance


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

Pat,
You can always take 1 1/2" to 2" foam board insulation and sandwich them in between the hives. If desired, you can top the hives with plastic covered plywood to keep everything dry.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

A lot of the ones I saw at Miles to go was just the same size as a box with a piece of 3/4 or 1" wood ran around the border of the 3/4 plywood. The nice thing about this is you could use it for a candy board. 
David


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

If you actually build a spacer (bigger than bee space) that you can't remove into your covers the bees will surely fill it with comb in the spring.

I Make mine out of Advantech and instead of cleats I use square blocks attached so that just the corners touch the hive body - thus giving hive beetles one less place to hide. The advantech is very durable and warp resistant, but if not protected from the weather it will dish slightly upward over time and hold water. I cover them with trim metal which seems to keep them fresh forever.


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## plcnut (Mar 8, 2013)

David LaFerney said:


> instead of cleats I use square blocks attached so that just the corners touch the hive body - thus giving hive beetles one less place to hide.


Could you please elaborate?
Or better yet, "a picture is worth a thousand words". 
I'm getting ready to build some migratory covers and would rather do it right the first time. 
Thanks.


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

You know I looked for a picture when I posted that, because "a picture is worth...." Went through my mind - but I don't have any. I will try to take one tomorrow and post it.


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## marshmasterpat (Jun 26, 2013)

Matt - I saw that picture the last time you posted it. Went and grabbed what was left of my last sheet a plywood and made some of those for myself for testing. Excellent Idea is my conclusion after a week of field testing. 

Need to make a few more.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

westernbeekeeper has a thread he started today "100 Migratory Covers" or something like that.


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## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

Here it is: http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...ry-tops-photos&p=1021759&posted=1#post1021759 Hopefully you can find it helpful!


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

plcnut said:


> Could you please elaborate?
> Or better yet, "a picture is worth a thousand words".
> I'm getting ready to build some migratory covers and would rather do it right the first time.
> Thanks.












That is an 1 1/2" feeder shim above the dovetailed super - not part of the lid. The blocks are securely glued. SHB have to go somewhere else to hide.










Advantech works well for this - plywood probably would not, because it would be too prone to warp. 

I like a little bit of overhang all around, but I have a few that are flush on the sides too. It will all work.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Overhanging migratory lids make loading pallets of hives on a semi cumbersome.


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## David LaFerney (Jan 14, 2009)

Of course to actually be migratory lids for migrating they need to be flush. For me the key feature is that they don't require an inner cover.

I have some that are flush on the sides too, but since I don't move hives like that, and I like overhangs because I imagine they keep everything dryer - most of mine have them. The point of the picture is the blocks instead of the usual cleats. Not a big deal, just something I came up with, tried, and decided I liked. So I shared it. 

I also really like the built up feeder hole, and the metal covering. I like those features so much that I went to considerable effort to modify all of my various covers to incorporate those two things. I even put the built up feeder holes on all of my tele covers - right over the hole in the inner covers. And put metal skins on lids that already had built ups - pretty tedious until I figured out how to go about it. That is actually one in the bottom picture that has had metal added after the built up.


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