# Alternative to finger joints in hive bodies



## S.M.N.Bee (Aug 9, 2011)

Sure exmar. I make all of my hive bodies this way. Just use a waterproof glue like Titebond III or Gurilla glue and cross screw them with five screws in each corner.


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

I make mine with the rabbet joint and have seen many others do too. A local seller near me uses them too. He screws his down. I just use 2" 16g. brad nails. Also to add, I use 7/8" thick lumber.


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## GSkip (Dec 28, 2014)

I also use rabbet joint, 3/4x3/8, glue with Titebond III or Gorilla glue and 1-5/8 deck screws counter sunk flush. Paint the end grain with the Tite Bond glue for extra water proofing.


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## exmar (Apr 30, 2015)

Thanks for the responses, may build some mediums using this method.

Thanks again,

Ev


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

Same here. Rabbet joints, Titebond III, but I use 1 5/8" crown staples from both sides of the joint. I've only started this past year. I used a couple of the boxes on my two winter hives and my 2 nucs, but they seem to be holding up well. Time will tell how they do going forward.


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## logansandres (Feb 2, 2017)

Thanks for the advice! I'm new to all this, so will keep that in mind "said a numerously stung person" haha


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## sebashtionh (Apr 6, 2016)

Rabbet joints are strong, not as strong as finger joints. there is more glue surface on finger joints, but with that said if you don't glue and assemble the finger joints correct you lose the advantage of all the glue surface and strength. 
I build with a rabbet joint for ease and time, staple both directions on the joint titebond 3 for the glue.

i was taught that staples and screws are only there for the glue to dry. With a good glue joint if you try and break it the wood should break not the joint. 

24 years custom cabinets and high-end furniture is an advantage for me 

also replace your glue bottle every year glue gets weak sitting around. dont use that 2 year old bottle


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## flyin-lowe (May 15, 2014)

I butt joint mine and shoot a couple staples in each direction. Going into my 4th year this way and never had an issue.


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## sebashtionh (Apr 6, 2016)

thats even quicker


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

Just built 50 supers with Advantech for the front and back and 5/8" ply for the sides glued and stapled each end from 2 sides and it was quick and easy. Just bought some mediums from Mann lake for a beginners course and assembled one, what a pain in the rear. I cant figure out why anyone bothers with finger joints.
Johno


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## Tenbears (May 15, 2012)

The true beauty of a rabbet joint is in the fact that one ends up with a joint with less exposed end grain. The demise of many a 1 by.


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

Tenbears said:


> The true beauty of a rabbet joint is in the fact that one ends up with a joint with less exposed end grain. The demise of many a 1 by.


That's a really good point. A 3/8" rabbet joint leaves a total end grain of 1 1/2" and only on the 2 end boards, whereas a finger joint leaves 3", and all 4 boards are affected.


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

flyin-lowe said:


> I butt joint mine and shoot a couple staples in each direction. Going into my 4th year this way and never had an issue.


I've done similar on some that I've made. I use deck screws on them when I made them 4-6 years ago. I've got about 10 deeps and 15 supers like this. I'll have to replace a deep for sure this spring due to dry rot on a bottom edge but it wasn't at the corner. If I can cut it shorter to be a super I will otherwise I'll screw a bottom on it, fill it full of undrawn frames with 1-2 drawn ones put a lid on it and use it as a bait hive.


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## psm1212 (Feb 9, 2016)

. This is what I do. I think it is completely unnecessary. Butt joints with screws will work just fine. But winter is boring and I would rather be in my workshop than in the house.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

psm1212 said:


> View attachment 30535
> . This is what I do. I think it is completely unnecessary. Butt joints with screws will work just fine. But winter is boring and I would rather be in my workshop than in the house.


Aw, that is just giving the _finger_ to butt joints!


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

Does anyone have a good blueprint for medium boxes made up with these rabbit joints? I looked up rabbit joints and it looks like there are several ways to make them. Also, is it cheaper to make the boxes or just buy them? And if bought, what lumber grade should a person purchase from the supplier if they are painting the boxes?
Thanks


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## cervus (May 8, 2016)

nchvac said:


> Does anyone have a good blueprint for medium boxes made up with these rabbit joints? I looked up rabbit joints and it looks like there are several ways to make them. Also, is it cheaper to make the boxes or just buy them? And if bought, what lumber grade should a person purchase from the supplier if they are painting the boxes?
> Thanks


http://beesource.com/build-it-yourself/10-frame-langstroth-beehive-barry-birkey/

Right here on the site. Notice the 2d paragraph of the plans reference rabbet joints. If you have a source for rough-sawn lumber, making your own can be considerably less-expensive than buying. Buying 1-by lumber from the big-box stores...not so much.


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## RBRamsey (Mar 1, 2015)

Those plans wont work for rabbit joints. The dimensions are wrong.

cut the short side to 16-1/4" rabbit 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep
cut long side to 19-1/8 no rabbit.


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## Treehopper (Dec 9, 2012)

I'm sorry, but there is just something pure about box joints...


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

That's right , a pure pain in the rear to glue and assemble them and the lousy timber rots in 5 years.
Johno


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## cervus (May 8, 2016)

RBRamsey said:


> Those plans wont work for rabbit joints. The dimensions are wrong.
> 
> cut the short side to 16-1/4" rabbit 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep
> cut long side to 19-1/8 no rabbit.


Good point. Dimensions given in plan are for box joints.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

When I assembled my nuc hives, I use the 2"
drywall screws. The deck screws are too big for my 5 frame nuc hives. It will be an overkill. I did not use
any TB-3 glue either. These screws will never rust under the weather though I do waterproof the nucs before
painting them. They make a very tight fit!


Drywall screws for hive assembly:


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

Are you referring to buying precut boxes?


johno said:


> That's right , a pure pain in the rear to glue and assemble them and the lousy timber rots in 5 years.
> Johno


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

How are you water proofing before painting?



beepro said:


> When I assembled my nuc hives, I use the 2"
> drywall screws. The deck screws are too big for my 5 frame nuc hives. It will be an overkill. I did not use
> any TB-3 glue either. These screws will never rust under the weather though I do waterproof the nucs before
> painting them. They make a very tight fit!
> ...


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## johno (Dec 4, 2011)

nchvac, I build my own. When I started about 7 years ago I bought some that were finger joints, and then a few with rabbit joints from B line. I found that the finger jointed boxes took twice as long to assemble. So when I started making my own I went straight to rabbit joints. First I used screws to assemble then went to 2" crown staples. I should think it would be much quicker to make rabbit jointed boxes than to make finger jointed boxes. I paint all my boxes with Kilz latex undercoat and then finish with whatever exterior latex I can get for $5 per gallon.
Johno


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## exmar (Apr 30, 2015)

After all the good info, will ask one more question. Don't want to build a jig to cut handles, was just thinking of cleats on two sides, "glued and screwed." Seems the fastest and most painless?


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

exmar said:


> After all the good info, will ask one more question. Don't want to build a jig to cut handles, was just thinking of cleats on two sides, "glued and screwed." Seems the fastest and most painless?


That's what I've been doing. Glue and staples. Front and rear only. Spaced from the top using a 1x4 so they are all the same location. Only downside I have had is the insulation I put around the hives was not snug up against the hive being it was held away by the 3/4" cleats. Next year I'll figure out a way to remedy that.


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

After I'd built quite a few boxes (rabbet corners) with handles made from the waste rips I discovered that I needed them rips for feeder shims, entrance reducers, bottom boards etc.
That's when I had to figure out how to cut handles. It's easy and the jig is fairly easy to figure out. 
Once I started cutting handles I was delighted. It's fun, easy, plus you get to smell that lovely smell you get when you're plunge cutting pine. I'll never go back to using glued and screwed on handles. As mentioned above they mess up a good wrap and insulate job.


This is what I do and it's not OSHA-friendly. 
If anyone is interested I'd make a video and teach y'all how to build the jig and show mine.


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

Gumpy said:


> That's what I've been doing. Glue and staples. Front and rear only. Spaced from the top using a 1x4 so they are all the same location. Only downside I have had is the insulation I put around the hives was not snug up against the hive being it was held away by the 3/4" cleats. Next year I'll figure out a way to remedy that.


I think a lot of times folks don't understand insulation. Air is a great insulator, in fact when one uses fiberglass batting type insulation (like used in walls of houses and some attics), what is really doing the insulating is the air in between the fibers, not the fibers themselves. Same thing goes with a brick house- you have brick on the outside, about 4inches or so of air and then the interior wall construction, so you have a better R Value mostly due to the dead air because brick transfers heat quite readily. Same thing goes with storm windows- It isn't that extra piece of glass that is insulating, it is the dead air between the two pieces of glass. Otherwise you could just use one piece of glass twice the thickness and achieve the same R value. 

What I am getting at is if you are concerned about the air gap that the wooden handle creates, well that is really better insulation AS LONG AS when you install the insulation wrap you are not compressing it in the handle area by pulling it too tight, and the offset of the insulation isn't causing a leak somewhere that air can infiltrate. And in thinking about it, even if you do compress the insulation around the handle, you still have an inch or so extra wood in that area so you have a thicker wall which will conduct less heat or at least conduct the heat less quickly. 

Basically I am saying this is a non issue.


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

I understand insulation and the dead air principle just fine. It doesn't apply when the handhold on the stack is in the middle and the space above and below is open to the atmosphere. For dead air to work as an insulator, it needs to be sealed and not allow air flow through the cavity. I could have cut the handle area out of the foam board allow the foam to fit over the handle but I built them as a slip on cover, not a wrap around. Basically I didn't think it through till it was too late. I'll figure out something better for next winter.


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## shinbone (Jul 5, 2011)

For fasteners, I use stainless steel ringshank nails. They go in much quicker than a screw (2 whacks with my big hammer) and hold as well, plus no rust bleeds form on the wood.


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## beepro (Dec 31, 2012)

I mainly use linseed oil or Thompson's water seal. Let them dry out a
bit and then paint it over. Been working for me for the last 4 years. An idea
I like to try is to use a blow torch (flame thrower) on the wood after the linseed oil is poured on. Should
get a quicker absorption into the wood. Wonder if the bee wax can be use with a flame thrower too. Afterward the
boxes can be painted.
If you want to take out the air gap between the boxes then you have to cut a piece of foam that can be reused the next
season to fit between them. Then use a small piece of string or small wire to fit around the box and the foam on to the box. All you need to do is to use one wire for the back and front of the box.


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## AAIndigo (Jun 14, 2015)

exmar said:


> After all the good info, will ask one more question. Don't want to build a jig to cut handles, was just thinking of cleats on two sides, "glued and screwed." Seems the fastest and most painless?


That will work but they do get in the way when stacking large quantities for storage. You can also get a dado blade for your table saw and plunge your handles in. That is what I do. Just set up stops and stand to the side.


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## BadBeeKeeper (Jan 24, 2015)

shinbone said:


> For fasteners, I use stainless steel ringshank nails. They go in much quicker than a screw (2 whacks with my big hammer) and hold as well, plus no rust bleeds form on the wood.


Where are you getting the stainless ringshanks? I couldn't find any around here, even at the big stores.


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## aunt betty (May 4, 2015)

nchvac said:


> I think a lot of times folks don't understand insulation. Air is a great insulator, in fact when one uses fiberglass batting type insulation (like used in walls of houses and some attics), what is really doing the insulating is the air in between the fibers, not the fibers themselves. Same thing goes with a brick house- you have brick on the outside, about 4inches or so of air and then the interior wall construction, so you have a better R Value mostly due to the dead air because brick transfers heat quite readily. Same thing goes with storm windows- It isn't that extra piece of glass that is insulating, it is the dead air between the two pieces of glass. Otherwise you could just use one piece of glass twice the thickness and achieve the same R value.
> 
> What I am getting at is if you are concerned about the air gap that the wooden handle creates, well that is really better insulation AS LONG AS when you install the insulation wrap you are not compressing it in the handle area by pulling it too tight, and the offset of the insulation isn't causing a leak somewhere that air can infiltrate. And in thinking about it, even if you do compress the insulation around the handle, you still have an inch or so extra wood in that area so you have a thicker wall which will conduct less heat or at least conduct the heat less quickly.
> 
> Basically I am saying this is a non issue.


I wrap my hives with a certain duct insulating material that works out to where there is zero waste if I wrap hives with no handles. 
Have quite a few hives with handles and it's costed me extra to wrap them AND I have to keep track of which pieces go on hives with handles. It's a PITA and wasteful. The r-factor has nothing to do with my decision to start cutting handles. I appreciate your concerns.


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## shinbone (Jul 5, 2011)

BadBeeKeeper said:


> Where are you getting the stainless ringshanks? I couldn't find any around here, even at the big stores.



Here are the last two sources I have used, both on the internet. I like the 12ga x 2.5" nails - long and skinny for lots of holding power with reduced tendency to split the wood.





















And, here is a photo of a 7 year-old joint made with the SS ringshanks and Titebond III. I don't put any kind of finish on my boxes, and the wood is quite weathered, but the joint is holding as solid as ever, and the box is still perfectly rigid. Even with our temperatures swinging from -20F to close to 100F through the seasons, and the effects of our intense high altitude sun, those nails haven't budge at all. They haven't caused the wood to split, either. While the Titebond III is critical to such a long-lived joint, the annular rings' holding power and non-rusting property of the nails certainly contribute to the joint's longevity. Even if the glue joint completely fails (and maybe it already has), those nails will still tightly hold the box together. I bet I can get another 5 years out of this box, if not more.














.


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## kilocharlie (Dec 27, 2010)

This topic usually gets a lot of responses. You could spend a day reading the old threads. The great majority massively prefers the finger box joint treated with wax or with boiled linseed oil because they last longer. Its what happens 10 years down the road that affects the strength. Rebated "rabbet" joints rot out pretty early.

The best alternative I've found to the FBJ is the lockmiter joint. In order to use this, you need a router table, the lockmiter bit, and a planer to get the wood to all the same thicknesses.

One edge of the wood making the corner goes flat on the table. The mating lockmiter cut must pass on the same fence, but sticking up 90 degrees to the table. The bit has to be adjusted to the exact height for both cuts. The wood must be held to +/- .002" thickness variation.

The lockmiter joint is the fastest good joint to make if it is set up correctly. It takes maybe 5% of the time required to make a finger box joint. It is very nearly as strong. You just have to be a real stickler at getting it set up correctly on the first try or two, then the rest go extremely fast. You should not have to biscuit them.

Assembling the boxes on a jig keeps them square. Glue, clamp, and staple them. Build the boxes over-tall, then trim them on the table saw to size. Use a router jig to cut the rebates for the frame hangers. If you hate thin smile handles like I do, use full cleats, glued and stapled from the inside of the box.

Don't have a planer? Finger box joints are much stronger than butt-joints or rebated joints. If you move your beehives on a truck, don't even think about rebate or butt joints. If you are building a decoration hive for your garden, go for it. The bees do not care. 

Nuc's can be built any ways you want if they are going to see only 1 or 2 month's use each year. If you make lots of queens, or overwinter the bees in your nuc's, it might pay off in the long run to box joint them. If you are making boxes with lockmiter joints, make up your nuc's at the same time all in one setup. Fast and beautiful.

www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/lock-miters

Read that whole article from popular woodworking, it shows exactly how to do it.

After having made a few, I cannot believe that I am not seeing a lot of beehives built like that. It is so fast to make them, and the are very strong. They have zero end grain exposed. Cut them, glue them, clamp them over a squaring jig, staple them. Then wax dip them or paint them with boiled linseed oil, and they are a beehive for a long time. 

Once the wood is planed and pre-cut into square blanks about 1/8th inch oversize in the height dimension, I can make about 35 lockmiter boxes assembled in a day, paint them with B.L.O. the next day, and they are dry in 2 weeks, about the time it takes to make frames, tops, pallets, feeders, and pollen traps for them.

Again, have the wood planed all the same thickness. Use a router table with a 1/2 inch collet, a half inch shank lockmiter bit, about 2-1/4 horsepower, and a tall fence set at 90 degrees. Make a zero clearance fence face plate for the router table. Make up a custom set of push blocks.


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

Did you predrill these holes? The wood isn't split at all. Also, why do you not finish the boxes? How long do they last without paint or finish?


shinbone said:


> Here are the last two sources I have used, both on the internet. I like the 12ga x 2.5" nails - long and skinny for lots of holding power with reduced tendency to split the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

That is a nice fitting indeed. How much does the bit cost and can it be cut in one pass?


kilocharlie said:


> This topic usually gets a lot of responses. You could spend a day reading the old threads. The great majority massively prefers the finger box joint treated with wax or with boiled linseed oil because they last longer. Its what happens 10 years down the road that affects the strength. Rebated "rabbet" joints rot out pretty early.
> 
> The best alternative I've found to the FBJ is the lockmiter joint. In order to use this, you need a router table, the lockmiter bit, and a planer to get the wood to all the same thicknesses.
> 
> ...


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## shinbone (Jul 5, 2011)

nchvac said:


> Did you predrill these holes? The wood isn't split at all. Also, why do you not finish the boxes? How long do they last without paint or finish?


The holes come pre-drilled in what is the top piece as the nail is driven in.

I don't paint primarily because I am super busy with a day job and a few other time consuming projects, and so I cut corners to save time wherever possible. Our Colorado climate is relatively arid with low humidity, which means wood can last a long time if it can quickly dry out after each rain storm. Such is the case with my hives which sit on the roof of a shed and receive full sun every day from sunup to sundown. Any painted boxes I have were purchased assembled and painted rather than being built by me because the hives were growing fast and I didn't have time to assemble boxes myself.


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

Does anyone have a plan for an 8 Frame medium with rabbit joints? 
Thanks



cervus said:


> Good point. Dimensions given in plan are for box joints.


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## Brad Bee (Apr 15, 2013)

I use rabbet joints as well. I didn't read every word of every post but it appears that many people use them successfully as well. When I assemble my boxes I use Titebond III and I shoot the boxes together with 2 16 ga nails on each corner. Once I check for square and wobble, I screw them together with exterior torx head deck screws. I use 2 1/2" screws. My first home made southern yellow pine boxes are in better shape than the store bought finger jointed white pine boxes that are the same age.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

Whatever joint type you make if you want it to be as rot proof as possible make sure that he joint is entirely _full of glue_. That way it will not be almost constantly _full of water_. I watch video of people going thru the motions of putting on a token amount of glue on only one surface. For a few pennies more glue and a bit of extra time, they could have a better product.


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

nchvac said:


> Does anyone have a plan for an 8 Frame medium with rabbit joints?
> Thanks


Just take the outside dimensions of a standard box and subtract 3/4" for the sides. Ends will be full width. Cut your rabbets 3/8" deep and 3/4" wide on each side of the ends. Cut the frame dado 3/8" deep and 5/8" wide across the top of each end to hold the frame ends. 

So your will cut your sides 19 1/8 length. The length of the ends are whatever the outside dimensions are for your 8 frame box. Depth of both will be whatever your box height is.


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## Brad Bee (Apr 15, 2013)

crofter said:


> Whatever joint type you make if you want it to be as rot proof as possible make sure that he joint is entirely _full of glue_. That way it will not be almost constantly _full of water_. I watch video of people going thru the motions of putting on a token amount of glue on only one surface. For a few pennies more glue and a bit of extra time, they could have a better product.


That's why I use a chip brush to paint every surface with glue before assembling.


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

Would Gorilla Glue do better than Tite Bond? The reason I ask is that the Gorilla Glue expands (sort of like spray foam) and should fill in the areas that one may otherwise miss or perhaps the glue gets whipped off the surface when the parts slid across each other in assembly. Looks like Gorilla Glue maybe would go back in an fill those areas when it expands.


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## tmwilson (Apr 5, 2015)

The gorilla wood glue I use on all my cedar boxes doesn't expand any more or less than the titebond 3 I use on the pine boxes. I use both glues a lot and in my opinion both perform flawlessly even after several years of being outdoors. 

If you're talking about the gorilla glue that says it'll glue anything to anything, then I can't say as I have never used it for gluing wood products.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I prefer using gorilla glue for my boxes. As you said, the small voids get filled as it expands and after a quick sanding, paint takes care of the rest. I use titebond for frames. They're both good products that I've used for quite some time.


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

In reviewing some things in this post and Mr. Bush's website, it appears I am going to need to cut my frames down as I am wanting SC bees. I didn't realize that the crooked wax in hive is what was causing short and long bees, but I can definitely see after witnessing this that the length of the bee is important and varied by cell length. 

If one is custom sizing a box, how much clearance would be needed in addition to the frames used for an 8 frame or 10 frame box for that matter? I'm talking the play at the end of the box that helps us get that first frame moving.


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## Phoebee (Jan 29, 2014)

nchvac said:


> Would Gorilla Glue do better than Tite Bond? The reason I ask is that the Gorilla Glue expands (sort of like spray foam) and should fill in the areas that one may otherwise miss or perhaps the glue gets whipped off the surface when the parts slid across each other in assembly. Looks like Gorilla Glue maybe would go back in an fill those areas when it expands.


I've been using "Original" Gorilla Glue for foam projects. Its much better than Titebond for gluing EPS and polyisocyanurate foams. It does foam up. Since it is a polyisocyanurate, I would expect it is not entirely stable in direct sunlight. It messy and drips are harder to clean up than Titebond. Very strong and waterproof, though.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I've used Gorilla Glue for years on outdoor projects that needed a little more than just glue. My house is 200+ years old and it's not uncommon for pieces to "almost" fit when I'm making repairs. Gorilla Glue has held up well. I use oil based primer liberally and use a top quality latex or...preferably...an oil based top coat. The voids that the glue fills are strong and long lasting. For example, I hand re-created a cornice to replace the original that had been ripped off the house when a silver maple fell. I used Titebond in the shop when I made the unit but since it was being installed on the original structure, I used Gorilla for a good seal when I installed it. Oil based primer, followed by quality caulk and a good topcoat was perfect. I was up there last summer to install a window and the unit looks as good as it did ten years ago when I put it in.


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## SS Auck (May 8, 2015)

i made eight deeps this winter with half blind dove tails. I have a porter cable jig i bought to do box joints and tried dove tails too. Dovetails were way faster and are really strong joints. i am not sure i will nail together. I did glue with Titebond 3.


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## Jim_in_PA (May 17, 2016)

Don't get the "gorilla" type glue on your fingers...  ...but it's good stuff for strength and for minor gap filling. I agree that direct exposure to sunlight isn't a good idea.


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

In review of the warnings and experience, I think I am going to go with the Titebond because I see a Gorilla of a mess coming after working on a couple of boxes today. If I recall Gorilla Glue has to wear off. 
So it seems most use Titebond. Is there a certain type to get, and are the bees OK with the product? 
Also, I have located some finished lumber but the boards are around 5 inches wide so they will have to be glued. Is it alright to glue the boards together on the sides to achieve the required width? If so, is it ok to just butt them together or would a T&G or biscuit need to be used?


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

nchvac said:


> In review of the warnings and experience, I think I am going to go with the Titebond because I see a Gorilla of a mess coming after working on a couple of boxes today. If I recall Gorilla Glue has to wear off.
> So it seems most use Titebond. Is there a certain type to get, and are the bees OK with the product?
> Also, I have located some finished lumber but the boards are around 5 inches wide so they will have to be glued. Is it alright to glue the boards together on the sides to achieve the required width? If so, is it ok to just butt them together or would a T&G or biscuit need to be used?


Titebond II is water resistant. Titebond III is waterproof. For bee boxes use the Titebond III. Yes, bees are ok with it. 

Gluing up boards to width should not be a problem. Best if you can joint them for a tighter fit. If you don't have a jointer, get yourself a decent plane, the longer the better, but a 14" Jack Plane would work well for this. It's also a lot of fun to use a hand plane for edge jointing. 

Biscuits would be fine, and probably preferable if you can't joint them. T&G would also work. Just flue the surfaces and clamp them well.

They're bee boxes. It's not fine woodworking. They only need to be semi-sealed along the edge. The bees will seal up anything not completely closed.


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## Phoebee (Jan 29, 2014)

nchvac said:


> So it seems most use Titebond. Is there a certain type to get, and are the bees OK with the product?


Titebond III makes the most sense. Hive bodies lead a rough life. If the hive body rots away, the skeleton of Titebond III may still stand. I used to keep both types on hand, but then I asked myself why bother ... III all the way now.


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## nchvac (Sep 5, 2015)

Titebond comes in ultimate and premium. I assume that they are made of different compounds, so which one should I get- hate to get one and find out that the bees don't like it after all that work. And does anyone know about how many deeps can be made up with a bottle. Thanks


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## Jim_in_PA (May 17, 2016)

Titebond III is the most water resistant...green label on the bottle.


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

nchvac said:


> Titebond comes in ultimate and premium. I assume that they are made of different compounds, so which one should I get- hate to get one and find out that the bees don't like it after all that work. And does anyone know about how many deeps can be made up with a bottle. Thanks


Seriously, this isn't rocket science. You're gluing pieces of wood together for bees to live in. The glue will outlast the wood! 

Use Titebond III. When it cures, it's waterproof. There are no emissions from it. The bees won't even come into contact with it if you do your job properly and keep it in the joints. How many deeps you can build with a bottle depends on how big a bottle you buy and how much you use on each joint. Buy the biggest bottle you can get. Spread a light coat on each joint. Wipe up the squeeze-out. Let it cure at least a day. Paint the box. Done!


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