# Hive Top feeder recomendation.



## dynemd (Aug 27, 2013)

FD-118 $22.95 Free Shipping over $100 Click Link Mann Lake


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> I am thinking it is like 19 7/8 inches from front to back. 

All hives with normal frames (and made from 3/4" wood) should measure that same 19 7/8" in that dimension. It is the other dimension that changes based on the frame count. 

A normal 10 frame hive is typically 16 1/4", but there is greater variation in 8 frame boxes among different manufacturers than for 10 frame boxes. If this is a concern to you, measure your boxes and check with the potential feeder vendor before you place an order.

I suggest that a feeder with wire that keeps bees out of the main tank is a better choice than a float system. The Mann Lake feeders linked above appear to be of that design. For those interested in making their own Miller style top feeder, the Beesource plans use hardware cloth to keep bees from the tank and don't use floats. The linked feeder plans are for 10 frames, but it wouldn't be hard to modify to 8 frames: http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/miller-type-feeder/


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## dynemd (Aug 27, 2013)

I think the Mann Lake is 14" X 19-7/8"


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## BeeMoose (Oct 19, 2013)

Deleted

double post


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## BeeMoose (Oct 19, 2013)

I have the Brushy Mountain hive top feeders with the floats to stop bee drowning, which does not work.

I have had hundreds of bees drown in them even with the floats.

I will not buy any more of these until they redesign it to prevent unecessary bee deaths


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## Beeonefarms (Nov 22, 2013)

Amish mason jar less than 1 dollar .. no drowning
You can chart how much they are consuming and for the nosey beek can get into the hive without sloshing


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## Jackie Burba (Aug 21, 2012)

I modify the top cover and inner cover to accept a quart or half gallon jar with holes in the lid. If your not feeding it has a cover you put in the hole. It works great for me one glance at the hive and you know whether or not they need more feed or not. Plus you don't have to open it up to fill the feeder. I found the plans online I think if you search google for DC bees you'll find it. I've tried several styles of top feeder with wire and floats and both led to a lot of dead bees or ants.


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## MT Don (Mar 1, 2012)

I have found that top feeders add a lot of moisture to the inside of the hive...............Hence, I think the Mason jar is the best and most economical method.


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## rweaver7777 (Oct 17, 2012)

Would you think that plastic screen glued on the top of the floats would work?



BeeMoose said:


> I have the Brushy Mountain hive top feeders with the floats to stop bee drowning, which does not work.
> 
> I have had hundreds of bees drown in them even with the floats.
> 
> I will not buy any more of these until they redesign it to prevent unecessary bee deaths


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## Zbee (Apr 15, 2014)

I had a top hive feeder similar to what you are describing - entrance in the middle, wooden floats on each side. I hated it. Drowned bees, comb everywhere, and added moisture.

I ended up using a gallon sized ziploc bag (get the nice ones, not the cheap stuff that leaks), set it on top of the inner cover, placed it inside a 2" shim, telescoping cover on top of that. Poked some holes in the top of the bag when its laid flat like a waterbed, and it worked like a charm. Bees sucked that thing dry and I pop in another when needed. No mess or leaking syrup over brood. No drowned bees. Less space. I can also store the syrup in the bag in the fridge.


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## drlonzo (Apr 15, 2014)

flyin-lowe said:


> I am planning on purchasing hive top feeder for future use instead of the entrance feeder I have. Any recommendations about brands or things to look out for? I have seen several with the entrance slot in the middle and a reservoir on each side with wood floats in them. My hive was built by a friend using plans from Fat Bee Man. It's an 8 frame hive so I am assuming it is a standard size if I was to order one. I am at work so I can't remember but I am thinking it is like 19 7/8 inches from front to back. (that is from memory so I could be wrong.)
> I thought about building one myself. My thought was an open slot down the middle with the reservoir on each side. I was going to run some screen or hardware cloth at an angle from the opening down to the lower outer corner, so no matter how deep the syrup is they would have a way out. Does this make sense, and if so any reason that would not be a good idea?


The Fat Beeman plans for an 8 frame hive are normal in lenght, however he calls for the width to be diff from the standard as he calls for 13 1/4 " instead of the normal 14 if you use standard 3/4" wood. His plans call for a 3/4" inside extra space giving 11 3/4". If you purhcase a standard feeder from Mannlake etc, they will hang over the edge and only about 1/4" on each side will hit. 

If you are going to make a feeder, use his plans, but instead of using so much wood in the ladder, use more hardware cloth. Makes a nicer looking setup and NO mold either.. Here's a pic of one that I made for my 8 frame hives..


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## beemandan (Dec 5, 2005)

dynemd said:


> FD-118 $22.95 Free Shipping over $100 Click Link Mann Lake
> 
> View attachment 11533


What I do not like about the Mann Lake feeder is that during any sort of nectar flow your bees will fill the underside with comb and honey...attaching that comb to the frames below. Then when you remove the feeder it makes an awful mess....


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## tonysea (Jan 22, 2014)

I have the mann lake feeders and love them,i haven't lost a single bee to drowning,a couple things i have noticed. 1 They will sweat,but i Popsicle sticked my roof and that cured that in a day. 2 The girls will build some goofy comb under them like beemandan said,if your doing regular inspections just scrape it off.


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## cryptobrian (Jan 22, 2012)

I have taken to putting inner covers beneath the feeders to eliminate the desire to build wonky comb. So far so good.


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## Ddawg (Feb 17, 2012)

I went to Home Depot and bought the 2 Qt plastic paint mixing buckets. Punch holes in the lids with a thumb tack and place them above the inner cover on square dowels. Put an empty hive body on top with the telescoping cover. This has served me well, easy access, holds plenty of sugar water and no drowned bees.


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## larrybeach (May 25, 2013)

I like the Feed Easy by Beetle Jail. They have a video demo on there website, no drowned bees and it is easy to use.


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## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

I use the BeeMax styrofoam top feeders. Betterbee carries them (IIRC less than $30 each.).

I take my wooden telecover and inner cover off when the feeder is on, however, because everything above the feeder grows moldiness (partly because feeding happens here during the late summer and early Fall when our humidity is the highest and the nights can get cool). Above the feeder I use a BeeMax cover. If it grows fur, I just scrub it (and the feeder itself, if necessary) with bleach water and I'm good to go.

The only downside is that carpenter ants can chew on and open holes in these feeders. Painting reportedly doesn't deter this, alas. I may fabricate exterior ides and edges from roofing flashing to combat this if my new location away from their nests doesn't solve the problem..

The bees learn to use the feeder very readily (within minutes of installation). You can refill it without opening the hive, which is a boon as the nights get darker earlier during feeding season. I never have lost a bee to drowning.

If you get one if these watch sometime when the fluid level is nearly zero. You'll see hundreds of bees sticking their little proboscises under the Lexan divider to eagerly slurp up the last drops. It's hilariously funny, I think.

I always have an open top entrance (with robbing screen, as necessary) under the feeder to vent away any moisture rising from within the hive that might otherwise get trapped under the body of the feeder. I don't like damp hives!

You can't use a quilt box while you have the feeder on.

Enj.


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## woodedareas (Sep 10, 2010)

BeeMoose
I have the same problem with these feeders from Brushy Mountain. Since I already have them I am going to try to figure out some method to prevent drowning. I think I will try placing a tight piece of screen over the floats and staple them, and eliminate the areas where the bees drown. The same type of feeders from Dadant do not drown bees but leak and seep through the corners.


BeeMoose said:


> I have the Brushy Mountain hive top feeders with the floats to stop bee drowning, which does not work.
> 
> I have had hundreds of bees drown in them even with the floats.
> 
> I will not buy any more of these until they redesign it to prevent unecessary bee deaths


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## Buzzlightyear (Dec 4, 2013)

On the man lake style feeders I run extruded styrofoam strips 3/4x3/4 strips they long way. I put enough in to leave about 1 bees space between them. Not one bee drowning yet.
One could probly use a thin foam and drill holes in it, that's my next experiment.
Yes they have been building bridge comb under the feeder. 
Does anyone put an inner cover under the feeder?
Stephen


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## uplander12ga (Sep 16, 2013)

If you're going to build one yourself I recommend the Miller Hive-Top feeder plans right here on Bee Source. http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/miller-type-feeder/ I put 10 of these together over the winter for less than the price of 2 of the Brushy Mtn or Mann Lake feeders. They have worked fantastic! Just the right bee space on the underside and drown-free since I started using them this season. Very nice design. Matter of fact I plan on building 15-20 more this weekend!!!


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## cryptobrian (Jan 22, 2012)

> Does anyone put an inner cover under the feeder?


Yes, I have mine setup like that this spring and it is working well this way.


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## johnnie1uk (Apr 22, 2014)

Ddawg said:


> I went to Home Depot and bought the 2 Qt plastic paint mixing buckets. Punch holes in the lids with a thumb tack and place them above the inner cover on square dowels. Put an empty hive body on top with the telescoping cover. This has served me well, easy access, holds plenty of sugar water and no drowned bees.


The problem I have with the Plastic bucket is that when atmospheric pressure changes it either decreases or increases the flow sometimes too much. I stick to glass jars for a 
constant flow.


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## tonysea (Jan 22, 2014)

yes


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## 78-79fordman (Mar 23, 2014)

I use fatbeeman design and have yet had a bee to die . Mine holds a gallon . May be increasing that on the next ones I make .


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

I use the Kelley plastic inserts with a screen. No bees outside the screen (except for the ones that always fly in when I'm filling it) unless you have a bad seal with the cover, holds 4 gallons. They will build comb underneath with a strong flow on, but then you shouldn't be putting feeders on then anyway.

A similar home-made one will work fine too -- I need to make a couple nuc sized feeders. A large chamber with sloped bottom, an access slot up the side, and #8 hardware cloth arranged to prevent bees getting past the screen, about a bee space from the sloping side, will work great. No drowning (although an occasional bee dies up there and falls in), no robbing since no one can get to it from outside, no need to use a veil or smoker to add syrup, just pop the lid and pour it in.

Float type feeders can probably be converted by adding the wire mesh over the entrance slot and sealing it to the sides.

Peter


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## flyin-lowe (May 15, 2014)

I think to start I am going to try to build the Fat Bee Man no drown version, I got the plans today. Ill let you know how it goes.


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## Rob73 (Apr 19, 2009)

I love the foam hive top feeders, I think beemax is the brand. They are light work well. The down fall of them is when you do an inspection. You have to pour out the syrup because you cant set it down, the bottom will be covered with bees. I prefer using it during the winter for this reason. During the spring and summer, a mason jar is the way to go imo. Easy to swap out & you can cut a hole in any inner cover to accept the jar. Cut the hole with a cheap keyhole saw or spend 20 bucks and get a hole saw to do it. Only bad thing about the jar feeding is the extra empty hive body used to cover them up.

So, I like the foam hive top feeders during the winter, but I prefer the mason jars during the rest of the year. I guess if I was going to feed them and leave them alone until it was empty, I wouldnt mind the hive top one all year. Those foam ones will hold like 2 gallons of syrup maybe more. If its hot out, the syrup may go bad before they take it all.

Rob


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## Just Krispy (Aug 1, 2013)

I have 2 Mann Lake top feeders and have never had luck with them. The bees simply won't use them. I switched to division board feeders last year and then I got two very hot nucs this spring. I bought 5 quart plastic pails at our local hardware store for $2 a piece and made bucket feeders. It works better for these crabby girls because I dont have to open up the hive to switch out their feeders.


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## Joel_T (Feb 8, 2013)

swienty feeder with a vivaldi board......easy to use. No dead bees or robbing.

http://www.bee-outside.com/roundswientyfeeder.aspx


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## flyin-lowe (May 15, 2014)

I finished up my feeder today. Very simple to build and could be built for less then $10 if you had to buy the materials. I added a second deep to my new hive 2 weeks ago. One of the frames had some drawn comb on it from last year and some of the others had foundation and some had nothing. They had not started drawing any comb on it yet so I went ahead and put the feeder on today with a 1:1 solution. I am not sure if they will take the syrup or not as there is tons of clover in bloom right now and still some dandelions. I am going to check it this weekend and see if they are using it or not.


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## flyin-lowe (May 15, 2014)

Surprisingly I went over and checked my feeder two days after install and it was empty, almost 1 gallon gone. There were some dead ants in the feeder but the bees drank it down faster then I thought. It must be working because I had installed my 2nd deep box with 8 frames about 2 weeks ago. When I installed the feeder a couple days ago the bees had not drawn any comb in the 2nd box. One frame had bees on it but the other frames were half foundation and half foundationless. Today when I checked the feeder two the the foundationless frames were almost 50% drawn. The sugar water must have kicked them into overdrive. I am going to try some cinnamon around my hive to try to deter them.


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## mattheritage (Apr 17, 2014)

I use 1 gallon zip lock bags as well. They work great for me. The only Ive had is once when my wife poked a hole too close to the side and it leaked down the side of the hive. But I use a screened bottom board so it just went out the bottom. The nice thing is that it won't all leak out... just until it gets to the level of the hole. Other than that, the bees seem to use them just fine, not a single drowned bee, and I change them every 4-5 days. Super easy, super quick, and very cheap.


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## doodlebug (Jan 26, 2014)

Do you just poke holes in the top of the bag and lay it on the frames and then put the hive cover over it?


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## mattheritage (Apr 17, 2014)

doodlebug said:


> Do you just poke holes in the top of the bag and lay it on the frames and then put the hive cover over it?


Kind of... Make your syrup and let it cool. Fill the bag 1/2-2/3 full. Definately not over 2/3. Seal it up leaving about 1 inch open and squeeze the air out of it (over the sink cause you'll spill a little) and then seal it completely. If a little air is in it, no big deal. Then seal up the opening with Duct Tape so it cant come unziplocked. Some people don't use tape. With good bags you could probably get away without it, but I tape them just in case. Transport the bags in a bucket in case of leaks. Put them either directly on the frames (This is what I do) or on top of the inner lid. Use either a 1.5"-2" spacer (measure your bags for best spacer size) or a hive box/super and then the cover. Don't poke holes into it until you have it installed. Some people cut slits in it with a razor. I like using toothpicks and poking about a dozen holes in it. When you lay the syrup bag down on the counter or hive or whatever, you will notice that the sides are curved a bit and the top is flat. Much like a waterbed mattress. You want to poke the holes well away from the curve in the sides (1" or more) or the holes will leak until it drains down enough that they are in the flat spot. I do 3 rows of 4 or if I'm feeling really adventurous 4 rows of 4. lol I like toothpick holes because there is NO chance that the bees will drown (sometimes they crawl or fall into cut slits). It takes 1-2 to get used to it all so I'd advise practicing on a couple bags with tap water in your kitchen to get comfortable with it. I filled a couple up and experimented with hole patterns, etc before I trusted them over the hive. They last 3-5 days depending on the size of the hive. Everytime I open my hives there are bees drinking from them so I know they work. If you don't use tape be sure to face the opening of the bag (the zipper) to the outside of the hive in case of a leak. 

That's about it. It sounds like a lot, but its not. I comes down to filling a bag, sealing it, installing it, poking a few holes, and closing the hive.


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