# 8 frame vs 10 frame deeps



## Mtn. Bee (Nov 10, 2009)

I am sure this has been discussed so much the old horse is beat to death!
But would like some new responses from the commercial types please:

All 8 frame deeps compared to all 10 frame deeps your thoughts??
Tossing around the idea of converting part of my operation to all deeps but the thought of having those boxes lighter instead of heavier sounds good to me. 
Also I already have about 2 colonies that are 8 frame and they sure seem to build up a lot quicker than the 10 framers do, of course I realize they don't have as much work to do it with the 8 frame boxes.

Thanks! Mtn. Bee


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

I used to run 1,000 8 frame hives and 1,000 10 frame hives in central Minnesota. I think a double 8 frame hive is a bit small to be a good wintering unit and I didnt like how high (and tippy) the hives could get if you got a decent crop on them. I think they are a good pollinating unit that can save on hauling yet still big enough to get a decent frame count. I wouldnt want them for commercial honey production, though, and I wouldnt want the 8 frame deep for a split as they can grow out of it so quickly. That's my .02 worth.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

those two extra frames buy you extra time, also helps provide enough space for a bit more resources


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## pahvantpiper (Apr 25, 2006)

Stay with the standard, much easier to sell if you want to. On the other hand, I recently talked to a couple larger beeks, 10,000 hives each and they both said if they had it to do over again they'd go with 8 frame equipment. I've loaded several semis with 8 frame equipment on 4 way pallets, it was a little more slow going compared to my 10 frame equipment since I had to be a little more careful that they didn't tip with the forks so close together.


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## RAK (May 2, 2010)

If your running singles 10 frames is the way to go. Doubles get the top box heavy and 8 frame would lessen the weight however I have more swarming problems with 8 frame so I sold it all. Having 2 sizes in my op. is a pain to deal with.

10 frame Singles with mediums for honey solves the weight issues.


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

I get paid the same for 8 frame vs 10 frame hives for pollination but I honestly like 10 frames hives better.


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## beebze (Sep 24, 2007)

I Run about 2500 hives, All 8 frame. I have 6 to a pallet. This works for me. Loading semi's is easy. The bees face the opposite side of where you pick them up. This is nice cause bees aren't directly in ur face. 6 way is all I know, Working the middle hive is sometimes a challenge but very doable. I have up to 3 suppers on double deep hives, I use straps which help keeping hives on pallets when moving them. I make all my own pallets. I put 4 2x4 runners on my pallets this helps with the pallet strength. I use 5/8" plywood for tops. 3/4 wood be better. 3 2x4 runners work for a while but after a few yrs they get flimsy. Most of my friends run 10 frame but have inside feeders in them which make them 9 framers. What's 1 frame? lol. I get paid the same as 8. Swarming, just run less bees, I never have run 10 so I can't make an honest call. All bees swarm in crowded spaces. 8 maybe sooner then 10 but there are things you can do to help this.


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## brownbuff75 (Jul 1, 2013)

Seems so far a common complaint with the 8 frame hives is stabilaty, more so when you start adding supers. Just as a thought, maybe you can run your bood chambers with 8 frame boxes then for the supers use a 10 fram box. you will need to make covers for the over-hang parts, but then you can attach 4 poles(one on each corner) to the over-hang covers and run thm to the ground. This will increase your stabilaty alot.


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## Mtn. Bee (Nov 10, 2009)

Hives are on 4-way clip pallets and loaded off and on flatbed trucks with skid steer loader and set up to be migratory and not stationary. Looking at being set up for pollination services as well as honey production, also want to go with all deeps to organize that part of the operation.
We also sell nucs so managing all deeps would be a necessity since 98% of our customers prefer deep nucs even though we offer med nucs as well.
My previous thoughts were to go with all 7-5/8" boxes to lighten the workload which would work fine for the honey production part of the operation but would not work for the nuc production part.


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## DarkWolf (Feb 20, 2013)

brownbuff75 said:


> Seems so far a common complaint with the 8 frame hives is stabilaty ~~ maybe you can run your bood chambers with 8 frame boxes then for the supers use a 10 fram box.


That would make it more unstable. Be better off running 10 frame deep for the brood and then 8 frames for the supers. Well, in a physics state of mind. Mixing box sizes isn't advisable.


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## pahvantpiper (Apr 25, 2006)

"My previous thoughts were to go with all 7-5/8" boxes to lighten the workload" 

Yes, that seems to be a growing trend. I've cut quite a few of these boxes already much to my surprise.

And I suspect the pole idea attached to each overhanging corner super is said tongue in cheek?


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## RAK (May 2, 2010)

beebze said:


> I Run about 2500 hives, All 8 frame. I have 6 to a pallet. This works for me. Loading semi's is easy. The bees face the opposite side of where you pick them up. This is nice cause bees aren't directly in ur face. 6 way is all I know, Working the middle hive is sometimes a challenge but very doable. I have up to 3 suppers on double deep hives, I use straps which help keeping hives on pallets when moving them. I make all my own pallets. I put 4 2x4 runners on my pallets this helps with the pallet strength. I use 5/8" plywood for tops. 3/4 wood be better. 3 2x4 runners work for a while but after a few yrs they get flimsy. Most of my friends run 10 frame but have inside feeders in them which make them 9 framers. What's 1 frame? lol. I get paid the same as 8. Swarming, just run less bees, I never have run 10 so I can't make an honest call. All bees swarm in crowded spaces. 8 maybe sooner then 10 but there are things you can do to help this.


Could you show some pics of your setup? What kind of strap do you use for strapping the hives?


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## gmcharlie (May 9, 2009)

10 frame boxes, with a 2 frame wide feeder....


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## brownbuff75 (Jul 1, 2013)

DarkWolf said:


> That would make it more unstable. Be better off running 10 frame deep for the brood and then 8 frames for the supers. Well, in a physics state of mind. Mixing box sizes isn't advisable.


Yes, hence putting the poles on the coners for more stability.


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## Bee Geek (May 4, 2013)

Here are some comments from a friend of mine who was a commercial beek. He only shared the positive side and nothing negative, but he had great success with eights. 

Eight frames fill end to end with brood twice as fast as a ten frame. Up and running faster sooner. 

Eight frames pay the same as ten frame in the pollination business. You can get more on a truck for shipping which equates all to more profit. 

Honey production is more efficient as he was pulling supers twice as often and the smaller boxes were easier to handle and better on his back. 

He would not consider anything but eight frame deeps for brood and mediums for supers. That is of course for making money, for a hobby standard sizes seem to always work best. It all depends on your goals and vision. Best plan is to choose one and run with it. Any size will work, you just have to work it! Cheers!


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## Mtn. Bee (Nov 10, 2009)

Thank You for all of the replies!!


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