# beeswax hive finish



## gojo (Sep 21, 2008)

I was talking to the man I got my bees from and he was telling me that he didn’t need to paint his hives at all. He said that he had a special beeswax mixture. I’m not sure if he has to melt it or if it is always liquid (he wouldn’t tell me anymore about it). But I’ve talked to people about it and they say it’s better than anything else because it penetrates the pores of the wood, its water proof, and doesn’t ware. Does anybody have a recipe or any information about it?


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## BjornBee (Feb 7, 2003)

You basically take alcohol, some cappings and propolis, and place it in a jar. No need to measure. The stuff not used wil settle at the bottom. Let it sit in the heat for a week or so, shaking now and then.

The stuff goes on and soaks the wood. The wood is protected, and the propolis stains the hive a natural color. You can re-apply as needed and takes very little effort. Just use a rag.

PS...So you know Chris?


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## beenovice (Jun 19, 2007)

Maybe mixture of wax and linseed oil ?


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## Hobie (Jun 1, 2006)

Sounds interesting. Bjorn, how long does it last before reapplication is necessary?

Of course, with "heat" in the equation, I'm out of luck until next July.


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## gojo (Sep 21, 2008)

thanks, but what if i have already melted the wax. can i use blocks of clean wax, and is the propolis used for anything other than stain.


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## Troy (Feb 9, 2006)

I know Michael Bush (MB) is treating his wooden ware with beeswax and resin.

Others are doing the same thing with paraffin wax and resin too.

Do a search on wax dipping on here and you will find a whole bunch of info. The barrier for me is the large tank of wax and resin that needs to be maintained.

The basic idea is you have a tank big enough to fit a deep super in. Fill the tank with wax and resin. I believe it is about 90% wax and 10% resin. Heat to about 250 deg F. or so. Dip the assembled woodenware for 5 to 7 mins and pull it out. The wax sucks into the wood and forms a weather proof barrier.

Most do this with paraffin wax because of the cost, but I seem to recall that MB is doing this with beeswax. It must smell awesome when cooking it up.


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## gojo (Sep 21, 2008)

Thanks, can I dip the frames or will that be bad for the bees


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## Hobie (Jun 1, 2006)

Why treat the frames at all? They are not exposed to weather, and the bees will wax/propolize them in short order.


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## Beethinking (Jun 2, 2008)

Scott at Archangel Apiaries is using Michael Bush's method to dip all of his equipment. It looks fantastic! 

http://www.bushfarms.com/beesdipping.htm

Matt


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## Paraplegic Racehorse (Jan 25, 2007)

BjornBee said:


> You basically take alcohol, some cappings and propolis, and place it in a jar. No need to measure.


Are we talking rubbing alcohol or gin, here?


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## BjornBee (Feb 7, 2003)

Paraplegic Racehorse said:


> Are we talking rubbing alcohol or gin, here?


If you have both, I'd drink one and make the varnish with the other. I'll let you figure it out.


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## Oldbee (Sep 25, 2006)

Cacklewack said:


> Scott at Archangel Apiaries is using Michael Bush's method to dip all of his equipment. It looks fantastic!
> 
> http://www.bushfarms.com/beesdipping.htm
> 
> Matt


Not ALL of us have a 50-100 gallon tank over a fire of coals to melt resin/wax and dip our wooden ware in. What is being asked, is there a way [simpler] to provide for a protective coating for our hive bodies with wax and propolis?

"and is propolis used for anything other than stain'.-gojo.

It is a 'kind' of resin collected by the bees. It is secreted by plants as a 'protection' from diseases, pests and moisture also.


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## Troy (Feb 9, 2006)

Does anyone have a line on getting one of these tanks made or buying one? I think I would really like to dip my woodenware.

Also, Obviously the wax protects the wood from water intrusion pretty well, but what about UV breakdown? UV is what makes wood turn gray and crack open on the grain. UV does a fair amount of damage too. Does the wax protect from UV?

I live in FL, so UV is a bigger concern for me than most, I suppose.


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## BjornBee (Feb 7, 2003)

Oldbee,
You are correct. The stuff I'm referring to is made in a pint or quart jar, and soaked on a rag. You rub it in. It soaks in, and at first is "tacky". The alcohol dries off, the wax hardens up, and the propolis stains the wood, and probably adds to anti-mold quality.

The dipping thing is different than what was asked, and is probably not achievable for 99% of beekeepers. The stuff originally asked about anybody can do.


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## Beethinking (Jun 2, 2008)

Troy said:


> Does anyone have a line on getting one of these tanks made or buying one? I think I would really like to dip my woodenware.
> 
> Also, Obviously the wax protects the wood from water intrusion pretty well, but what about UV breakdown? UV is what makes wood turn gray and crack open on the grain. UV does a fair amount of damage too. Does the wax protect from UV?
> 
> I live in FL, so UV is a bigger concern for me than most, I suppose.


Scott, the Archangel Apiaries fellow, had one fabricated for him just recently. You may want to get a hold of him over at his site.

Matt


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>Does anyone have a line on getting one of these tanks made or buying one? 

Bullseye Bill has posted that he knows someone who will make one for you. I bought mine from Bill when he was getting a better one built.


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## Drake (Sep 21, 2008)

can this treatment be done prior to assembling the hive boxes and/or frames? or you think this would warp everything to kingdom come?

drake


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I tried doing it before and the problem wasn't warping it was that the boards get stuck together too easily and the wax then doesn't flow between them. It was easier to assemble them first.


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## Drake (Sep 21, 2008)

ahh, erm was just thinking if I could only use my turkey frier, .... thanks for the heads up

drake


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## Troy (Feb 9, 2006)

I would imagine also, that glue would not stick well to wax coated boards. Glue must penetrate into the wood fiber in order to work. 

Even with the nice wax coating, I think I'd want glue in the joints to hold it all together. I mean the whole point of doing all this is to make them last right? Glued, screwed, dipped, and maybe even painted all sound like good ideas.

I'm still wondering about UV protection. Obviously the wax seals the wood grain pretty good, but does it still turn gray over time?


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## greengecko (Dec 16, 2008)

Not all "linseed oils" are created equal. Some are 100% raw linseed oil and others are combined with various petroleum-based solvents and metallic dryers. As always, read the label prior to use and be fully aware of any cautions or warnings!


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## RayMarler (Jun 18, 2008)

I slow melted my wax in double boiler cans on the stove, took it off the heat, and added Turpentine. When it all set cool, I stir it and spread it out and buff it clean. works very nice. 

Even better would be to use No Odor Mineral Spirits instead of the Turpentine, that way it won't smell so strong of Turpentine. I think the Mineral Spirits is distilled Turpentine. 

Another way is to just use a cheese grater to chip up the wax, put the chips in your jar, and add mineral spirits. put the lid on loosely and set in sun. The mineral spirits will melt the wax so it can bee stirred into a paste.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Terps and beeswax is among the oldest finishes for furniture. It's not particularly durable, but easily renewed or repaired.


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## throrope (Dec 18, 2008)

I found a beeswax mineral oil 1:5 recipe on woodweb.com that looks interesting.


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