# Vaporizer made with pic and info



## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

Here is what I did and got it working good.I will do this a pic and post at the time so not to confuse anyone.First I took a 3/4" piece of copper pipe and split it on a table saw with a carbide tipped blade.I use the 7 1/4" diablo thin blades.Copper is soft enough that it doesnt hurt your blade.Here you will see I just took a claw hammer to spread it open to start flatten it.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

With it spread open a little I just took a piece of wood and started knocking out the curvature of the pipe and then turning the wood sideways as it was getting wider and finally the hammer to get it good and flat.








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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

Now to roll the ends up I put it in the vise with a bolt the size of what I needed for the all thread and hammered it over.Then loosened it and repositioned it and hammered it over again and so forth till it was a rolled up end.I used 5/16" all thread for that side and a 7/16" bolt for the glow plug side.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

Next I cut the sides for the tab to roll up to make it a cup.Then bent the tabs up.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

This next part I forgot to get pics of but I will explain it anyway.I installed the glow plug and the other end of that tube I took my propane torch and heated it and filled it with lead free solder for heat transfer.Went to the truck to hook to my battery and test it.You can see it just starting to vaporize in the pic.Now I just need to make a handle and finish taping my hot wire down.It really doesnt take much to make yourself one of these and not much time either and they are not complicated after you see how its done.


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## cwood6_10 (Apr 17, 2012)

Very neat idea. Any reason why you just didn't get a flat piece of copper? Also, how long did it take to vaporize? Do you think you may need 2 glow plugs or would one suffice?


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

I didnt get a piece of flat copper because I didnt have a place to get any readily and the copper pipe I already had laying around.If I had the flat copper it would of taken no time at all to make as most of the time was taken splitting and flattening it.I didnt time it to see how long it took but it wasnt very long till it started. 2 glow plugs would of started it to vaporize pretty fast.I guess right now I would say it depends on how fast you want to work your hives.When and if I get more hives I would probably go with two plugs to ave time.At $10 each it wouldnt be that much more investment.Thinking about it after my SSD payday hits the bank next month I may build another one with two plugs.


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## cwood6_10 (Apr 17, 2012)

Good idea. I think I'll borrow that idea and make one. I have a milling machine that I can make a neat one with but I like easy and this is easy!! Great job!


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

I could of made one a lots neater but this one was built to show those that have very limited resources that they can also make one on the cheap.The price of beekeeping equipment has gotten so high a poor beekeeper needs a little break.


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## cwood6_10 (Apr 17, 2012)

snapper1d said:


> I could of made one a lots neater but this one was built to show those that have very limited resources that they can also make one on the cheap.The price of beekeeping equipment has gotten so high a poor beekeeper needs a little break.


You got that right!!!


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## nater37 (Aug 15, 2013)

nice job snapper


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## BigGun (Oct 27, 2011)

That's the best home made rig ive seen that wasnt milled.


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## mgstei1 (Jan 11, 2014)

I've used a Heilyser several times and the amp draw on a battery is way to high. I am now using a homemade rig with an electronic heater that maintains a temp of between 320 to 340degf and is only rated at 5 amps on 12v or 50watts. The device also is self limiting on temp and current and once she gets near temp the current drops below 1 amp and still maintains temp. The OA never nears degradation hi temps.
It does take a good 5 minutes to flash 2grams of OA but the slower burn makes a far better vapor cloud than the Heilser.
So I feel like the treatment is better and more thorough.
I am also making my own 1/2gram 8mm aspirin size OA pills to get a better measured dosage when treating. They handle better than a scoop and I feel safer using them.
Here's one I am making for my son to use on his bees.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

You are probably right.The slower the better.I noticed on the one I built here it started vaporizing on one side slowly traveling across and vaporizing at a constant speed without just boiling up everywhere.


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## tech.35058 (Jul 29, 2013)

tell us more about the heater ,,, where can we get it, , what to ask for, etc. 
both of these look good & do able. 
thanks to all who share.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

Go to a auto parts store and ask for a Autolite 1104 Glow Plug.Oreilley's auto parts,Autozone,Advanced Auto parts or any other auto part stores.They may have to order one in but thats usually an over night deal where they have it the next morning.I have seen where some have said not to screw it into the pan but the big threaded end in your ground.Someone also said not to let that big threaded end get hot because it will ruin your glow plug but I guess they have never though that it gets hotter when it is screwed into the head of a diesel engine running at normal temperature.


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## rookie2531 (Jul 28, 2014)

Snapper, that is a great tutorial. Very good info.


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## kramerbryan (Oct 30, 2013)

Nice work


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

Thanks guys for the compliments.I just thought some of you would like to save a few dollars on one so I posted it.A poor man has poor ways and I am on SS disability and poor and I know there are others in the same boat as I am and could use a little help!


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

snapper1d said:


> Go to a auto parts store and ask for a Autolite 1104 Glow Plug.Oreilley's auto parts,Autozone,Advanced Auto parts or any other auto part stores.They may have to order one in but thats usually an over night deal where they have it the next morning.I have seen where some have said not to screw it into the pan but the big threaded end in your ground.Someone also said not to let that big threaded end get hot because it will ruin your glow plug but I guess they have never though that it gets hotter when it is screwed into the head of a diesel engine running at normal temperature.


What is the temperature expected from the heated pan in the vaporizer compared to the cylinder head temperature where the glow plug is mounted in its designed service; certainly much higher.

It doesnt blow them immediately(providing they are not low voltage plugs) but it does rob heat from its intended target and lengthen the time to evaporate the OA. which some people have experienced.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

What kind of temp do you think in inside the combustion chamber of a vehicle where the glow plug and its base is subjected to a constant fire?I am not sure but it will be much higher than the temp of oxalic acid vaporizing.Put some on your exhaust manifold and see if it doesnt vaporize as its even cooler than inside the combustion chamber.The body of the glow plug it way way smaller than some of your aluminum block vaporizers so it is robbing a very tiny amount of heat.That threaded body has to be grounded or your glow plug can have its completed circuit.If others have their glow plugs screwed into the aluminum plate pans and they work good for them then why complain about.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

Just looked it up and here is a quote on the combustion temp of a diesel engine. "Not More Then 590 deg. Celsius It's interesting that 590 deg. Celsius (1075 F) is just below the melting point of pure aluminum, though."


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## tech.35058 (Jul 29, 2013)

Well, I have been thinking about the temperature angle.
Oav vaporizes at 315-375 F according to others.
Diesel engine coolant temps typically are less than 200 degrees , while exhaust gas temps are much higher.
I have not seen a spec for pre combustion chamber temps which is where the glow.plugs were located.in the old caterpillar engines I used to work on.
The cat plugs had 12 or 24 v stamped on them. If the plug did not look blown, we checked resistance to determine re usability.
just more useless details ...


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

A lot of people use the design below and have no problems and their glow plugs are screwed right into the pan also.If they have no problems then there is not much to argue about is there.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

There are a lot of different glow plugs. Some of the quick heat ones are more sensitive to burn out. Remember they are designed to operate on a cold engine condition so combustion temperature is a moot point. Usual time on is 30 seconds or less, not 3 minutes continuous. The autolite 1104 seems to be quite forgiving though.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

Moot point? You were also claiming the heat will cause them to fail quickly if the body was threaded into the pan.The point also is that the threaded body gets hot also on a running engine and they dont fail quickly.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

If you like to quibble, the plug is not energized at operating temperature.

The first design I did lost its glow plugs in short time. They had no heat sink at all. A later design worked well but was awkwardly tall and the pan a bit small. The glow plug bodies are held into the pan with set screws. I am not saying they will all just go poof but there are better designs.


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## popeye (Apr 21, 2013)

Thank you for coming up with this Snapper. Right up my alley. Where and how will you connect the neg wire?


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

The negative wire is connected to the end of the all thread.And you are welcome Popeye!

Crofter are you making and selling these.It really sounds as if you are trying to discourage people from making their own vaporizers.


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## crofter (May 5, 2011)

No, and no! I just found they heat quicker when only the heated tip of the glow plug contacts the pan. The body only soaks up heat. Certainly copper pipe is cheap, available and easy to work. You will know after a few seasons how long the glow plugs last. I have had VW's for 15 years and usually replaced a couple every winter so have bought a few. They are a bit like light bulbs; they dont last forever.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

If you are replacing a few each season you have problems.We have never replaced then that often.In fact in the shop where I worked for 15 years we have never replaced the first one.But then where you are buying them may be the problem and not the vehicle.I blew two the other day when starting this project but found that autozone had given me 1108's instead of 1104's. 1108's are low voltage glow plugs.


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## popeye (Apr 21, 2013)

Thanks snapper1d for the info. I made one using your directions and it works. Kind of ugly but it functions flawlessly. Mine takes 3 and a half minutes but I had to use one inch diameter pipe. I will only be doing about 6 hives so far. My wife has me on a budget and so now I have extra for frames and foundation.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

When I started this I was meaning it to be a pay it forward type deal so go and show others how to do it also.Yea they are not the prettiest but the bees dont know the difference nor do they care.


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## mgstei1 (Jan 11, 2014)

tech.35058 said:


> tell us more about the heater ,,, where can we get it, , what to ask for, etc.
> both of these look good & do able.
> thanks to all who share.


Here is my latest and probably final version.
5 minutes to boil off and battery is lasting longer.


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## Ky Speedracer (Feb 10, 2015)

snapper1d said:


> This next part I forgot to get pics of but I will explain it anyway.I installed the glow plug and the other end of that tube I took my propane torch and heated it and filled it with lead free solder for heat transfer.Went to the truck to hook to my battery and test it.You can see it just starting to vaporize in the pic.Now I just need to make a handle and finish taping my hot wire down.It really doesnt take much to make yourself one of these and not much time either and they are not complicated after you see how its done.
> 
> View attachment 15816


Snapper, to be sure i'm clear, you inserted the glow plug into the end of the rolled copper that you fitted it to and then filled the rest of that tube with silver solder? effectively holding the glow plug in place as well as creating quick heat transfer? Do I have that right?
Thanks so much for posting this. I love creative ingenuity!!


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

The actual type of solder here is important. No one sells soft solder with lead anymore....lead free does not imply silver solder and does not imply hard solder.

Can you please be more specific?


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

No it wasnt silver solder it was just lead free solder.Dont use any flux on it.If you use flux it could cause the solder to stick to the glow plug element.Without flux the solder doesnt stick to the element and you can remove the glow plug and replace it if needed.One thing about using the solder.Test your unit with oxalic acid and time it to see how long it takes to fully evaporate it.If you leave it too long you can melt the solder.The 1104 Autolite glow plug can get hot enough to melt the solder.Your oxalic acid will be long gone before it gets that hot though.Ky Speedracer I noticed I forgot to give you the answer to the rest of your question.Yes,I installed the glow plug into the rolled end and then added the solder.I heated the copper a little and then headed the solder and let it run in till the end was full.Someone commented yesterday that oxalic acid and copper gives a poisonous reaction.I have searched everywhere and cant find a thing that says it gives any kind of reaction.If you dont want to use copper you can still use aluminum and roll the ends and make the same kind of pan just as easy.


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## Ky Speedracer (Feb 10, 2015)

Thank you sir! I appreciate the follow-up!


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

I'm concerned about both the melting point of the solder (which can vary a lot if the spec is just lead free solder) and the possible chemical interactions between the OA and the unspecified ingredients in the solder.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

There are different grades of solder.Their makeup are tin and silver.The percentages of either determine the melting points.Both metals are used in food grade applications.Just be sure not to use any of the old lead solder.I use only the solid core solder which has no rosin in it for flux.To seal the edges of your pan so your oxalic acid doesnt run out when it melts you can use plumbers flux which is an acid but it will wash off with water.Its used on all your sweated copper water lines.Wash it off and you have no hazard there.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

"Lead free" solder does _not _necessarily have silver in it. For instance, this lead free solder is simply tin + antimony:
http://www.oatey.com/products/coppe...ire-solder/955-lead-free-plumbing-wire-solder

Then there is lead free solder that _does _have silver in it, for instance:
http://www.oatey.com/products/coppe...-solder/silver-lead-free-plumbing-wire-solder

Both of those products are described as for 'plumbing' and do _not _have rosin/flux embedded in the core of the solder.

Note that, at least for these two products, the 'silver' version has a slightly _lower _melting temperature.


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## snapper1d (Apr 8, 2011)

Both products are food grade and you dont have to worry about reactions.


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## biggraham610 (Jun 26, 2013)

Thanks for the plan. G


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