# AFB treatment for woodware?



## notaclue (Jun 30, 2005)

I didn't see anything on a search, but, has any one tried to use a microwave to kill the AFB spores? I guess someone has some place. But I figure if the metal, or at least the metal of sparking size, is removed and the wood is nuked for five to ten minutes on high do you think this may be an option? Granted unless there are HUGE nukes(microwave version) out there the boxes would have to be treated as per state law. But maybe save the frames? Or is this not cost effective and inefficient? Any one have any knowledge or comments on this?


David


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I've never heard of it and don't expect to. If you have to pull all the nails how practical is it?

Radiation is effective and available in some places as are some kinds of fumigation.

Boiling in lye or scorching are the typical methods.


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## Smok'em (Jul 7, 2003)

Some day when i have extra time I would like to build something like this. http://www.reineschapleau.wd1.net/articles/paraffin.en.html I'm not sure it would be hot enough to kill AFB spores but it would preserve the wood better than paint.


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

Nice dipper for sure........ Spendy rascal though.

This looks like a cheaper to build option..... Could be made using a large discarded home or commercial electric oven. They say 130C (266F) at 5 hours 15 min though!! Wow. 

Not very practical I think. Unless you build a large 8 x 8 room and use 3 or 4 oven elements with thermostats and do many at on time.

http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/beeline/6918.html


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

http://entomology.unl.edu/beekpg/tidings/btid1995/btiddc95.htm#Item4

"The authors recommend dipping boxes for four to seven minutes at 1600 F. If diseased boxes are being sterilized, they need at least 15 minutes and are usually done over lunch or a coffee break."

Sounds scary to me having parafin that hot.


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## BULLSEYE BILL (Oct 2, 2002)

>Sounds scary to me having parafin that hot

Surely it's a typo? Maybe more like 160 degrees?

I boil mine in the parafin/rosin between 175 and 180 (the recomended heat), but it has gum rosin in the parafin and needs to be a bit hotter to melt the rosin.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>Surely it's a typo? Maybe more like 160 degrees?

Maybe. I would be shooting for somthing more like your 180 F, Bill.

I don't have the numbers for flash points of parafin in front of me but 1600 F sounds likely to be WAY over the flash point. If it's anything like grease it's more like 400 F or LESS for the flash point. 160 F does sound reasonable, so maybe it's a typo? A very dangerous typo?


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

My guess is they meant 160C. The little I have read says 160F will not kill spores.

1600F is a typo for sure.

Heres an excerpt from a candlemaking site:

FLASH POINT
Most paraffin waxes have a flash point around 395° F. When it reaches its flash point it may not smoke or bubble, it will usually just explode, splattering flaming wax in all directions. To avoid this catastrophe, always use the double boiling method to melt your wax. Water boils at 212° F, which is well below the flash point of any paraffin wax.


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## Joel (Mar 3, 2005)

Cliff Van Eatons' studies showed no link between infected wooden ware and the spread of AFB. Even so if we buy any used equpment we burn any suspect frames, scorch the insides of boxes and bottom boards and wash excluders, etc. with hot soapy water. I have heard of some people boiling equipment in lye and rinsing it which I think is not worth the risk due to the inherrent hazards vs the unliklely spread thorugh equipment.


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

That puts my mind at ease. Is there a link to it?

I agree on burning even questionable frames.


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## Joel (Mar 3, 2005)

The study is not available online that I am aware of although there is still info on it. It is based on management of AFB without the use of meds. It's a pretty heavy duty document (100 pages) but I may try to put it on my site this winter if I can get time to scan it.


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## MichaelW (Jun 1, 2005)

I'd like to see that, whats the name of the study and where was it published? I can see if UTK has it avaliable. I don't use any antibiotics when unnecissary as a general rule so would be interested in reading that. Thanks.


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

I did a google on Cliff Van Eaton and found quite a bit on AFB treatment without antibiotics.


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## MichaelW (Jun 1, 2005)

maybe its a book

Elimination of American foulbrood without the use of drugs: a practical manual for beekeepers
M Goodwin, C Van Eaton - 1999 - Napier, NZ: National Beekeepers' Association of New Zealand 

I'll check out google, I'd have to request the book.


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## Joel (Mar 3, 2005)

It is titled "Elimination of American Foulbrood without the use of drugs, A practical Manual for Beekeepers" and was published on "Beekeeping in New Zealand" http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/disease/man01.htm

Written by Mark Goodwin and Cliff VanEaton

It was published in 2003 and is no longer available through the site. 

I would consider making copies and mailing to anyone willing to pay the costs for copying and mailing. It is a well done piece and tested by myself and another sideliner over the past 2 yrs with excellent results.

it changed many of our management practices including

1) No Exchanging Frames between any hives that conatined either honey or pollen. All other frames are inspected for scale or infected brood. On stored or degrade frames (as found in the spring in a dead out) the pupil tongue identification is used and clearly identifiable as foulbrood.
2) No Feeding honey or pollen back to bees (pollen carries high percentages of spores although not as high as honey)
3) Aggressive comb rotation
4) Treatment of infected equipment - a 0.5% sodium hypochlorite solution (Bleach in water) will kill all AFB spores in 20 minutes on cleaned equipment. (equipment is soaked)

It also identified the most common causes of spreading AFB is through extracted honey supers (even place on hive the following year)and transferring brood frames between hives.

Much more good information in the study which is a long read but worth it.


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## Sundance (Sep 9, 2004)

Count me in for a copy Joel. To bad it can't be transfered electronically.

Thanks


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## Joel (Mar 3, 2005)

Let me see if I can get it scanned into a program and send it. I expect I may have to use Adobe unless someone smarter than me knows how to do it.
84 pages.


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## bobbb (Oct 16, 2000)

Count me in also. Will gladly pay for copping and mailing.


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## bobbb (Oct 16, 2000)

here is a link to purchase book 
http://www.beekeeping.com/new/books/afb_nz.htm


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## ekrouse (Aug 26, 2004)

Here is someone in New Zealand selling copies
http://www.beekeeping.com/new/books/afb_nz.htm

and someone in the U.K.
http://www.beedata.com/beebooks2.htm


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