# Modified European Long Hives



## beegeorge (Apr 19, 2012)

has he got plans for those?


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## Ben Franklin (May 3, 2011)

Can't a supper be added to the top? And are there two colonies in each box?


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## julysun (Apr 25, 2012)

Looks like an oversize Lang, without the flexibility, but, beautiful carpentry!


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## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

Awesome!


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

They look very nice, more European style of doing things. I've tried long Lang style hives. I don't like pulling out the frames perpendicular like that. It's much easier to pull them from the side of the hive, the frame parallel to the side of the hive where you are standing. So I switched back to regular Langs. It was a good experiment.


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## Boris (Jul 12, 2006)

beegeorge said:


> has he got plans for those?


No.


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## Boris (Jul 12, 2006)

Ben Franklin said:


> Can't a supper be added to the top? And are there two colonies in each box?


Additional hive bodies are not possible, because the main idea of long hives is to have only one hive body without any attachments. This approach helps to maintain proper ventilation inside of the hive. As a matter of fact, I have never seen mold in Bogdan’s hives.

Normally, my friend keeps just one colony in each hive (two entrances are opened). Nevertheless, if a colony occupies less than 2/3 of the hive, he uses a divider to limit access to the extra space. In this situation, the second hive entrance is closed.


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## Boris (Jul 12, 2006)

Based upon numerous email requests, I added new photos and dimensions here:
http://www.beebehavior.com/modified_european_long_hive.php

Boris Romanov


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

beegeorge said:


> has he got plans for those?


All the information you need to build it is in the photos. I like the idea of the triple wall and the cover boards that will be easy for me to do with my long hive.


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## seapro220 (Mar 14, 2013)

This is a pretty cool looking box. I like the idea that it seems to be both a Lang and a Top bar. It give's me some thoughts and idea's around Nucs. If there were more openings made along strategic locations couldn't this idea be utilized for creating Nuc's? I mean, you have both the starter, finisher, and nuc box all in the same 'box'. You could start on 1 end, moving queen cells from the left, into a divided queenless section in the center, followed by a nuc section on the right? This seems too simple, but with dividers sectioning the 3 different 'requirements' - shouldn't this work without any issues? Also, at the end of the year, you can just collapse everything down into a nuc or nuc 1/2 for the winter?


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## WBVC (Apr 25, 2013)

I am intrigued by this hive as lifting and managing the Lang boxes is something I have trouble with. It also seems that these hives would make winter management less arduous...there must be some way to modify them for feeding...sugar blocks,patties and syrup. Also hinging or modifying the bottom would make it easier for mite counts and OA vapour treatment.

If one is harvesting honey for sales is production from these hives equal to that using Lang honey supers.

I am interested to hear what those with experience have to say.


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## rhaldridge (Dec 17, 2012)

The hives I built last spring aren't nearly as beautiful as the ones belonging to Boris' friend, but they worked very well and were very cheap to build. None of mine made enough honey to require supers, but there's no reason they can't be supered.


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## Boris (Jul 12, 2006)

Thanks to Barry Digman's thread posted here:
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?293206-Bees-in-Sochi

you can see some traditional Long Hives for big frames: http://www.beebehavior.com/beeimages/hives/long_hive.jpg

Boris Romanov


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## Michael B (Feb 6, 2010)

Very cool. I am going to build one of these.


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## Boris (Jul 12, 2006)

Just posted new photos here: http://www.beebehavior.com/modified_european_long_hive.php
Enjoy.

The new "Modified European Long Hive Inspection" full HD video is ready. I will try to upload it to YouTube soon.

Boris Romanov


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## gjt (Jul 24, 2014)

Boris, very nice work.

Long hives have been around for much longer than Langstroth. 

Here is a link to a a "Nagy Boczonádi" design. The particular designs shown are for 5-queen raising, and a two family with 24 frames.

The frame sizes are about 40 to 60% larger than Langstroth full/deep. This design is about 221.34 square inches surface, while a Langstroth full/deep is about 150 square inches surface. It is even bigger than a Dadant or Langstroth Jumbo at 198.59 square inches.

There are other countries with similar designs. I actually think most of the world uses _horizontal _hives instead of the _verticals _- but that is just my personal observation during my travels.


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## Boris (Jul 12, 2006)

Git,

Thank you for your comments.
The fifth picture from your link is a possible solution for the Ben Franklin's question from his post #3...

My new video below shows how easy is to inspect this type of hives without stresses for the bees. 
As you can see Bogdan's wife works without a bee hive smoker and protective gloves: http://youtu.be/HWWZkUT6728

Boris Romanov


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## gjt (Jul 24, 2014)

I have seen similar implement in Ukranian and Polish hives, so it is not unique. Good luck.

Looking at the video, I would forgo the pitched roof - too much work for little benefit. I have done flat roof with hinges and added counter weight on the other side (front) so the lids are very easy to open. It was for a handicapped beekeeper. The lid is always hinged in the front, that is, it opens from the back so the keeper is not standing front of the entrance, but the back of the hive.

Also those flat covers can be replaced by a large single solid or screened frame that is inset about 4 to 6". This allows to put "pillows" in there for the winter for the humidity and warmth.

Just some ideas.


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## Charlie King (Apr 27, 2014)

Wow thanks for posting these Boris, these are truly works of art as well as being very practical! I can immediately see they address a few issues Ive had with my TBH. Much more complex to make though so I need to improve my woodwork skills first or bribe a friend (more likely)


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## Boris (Jul 12, 2006)

gjt said:


> ...Looking at the video, I would forgo the pitched roof - too much work for little benefit...


I disagree with this statement, because I strongly support this recommendation for choosing a place for hives: "...shaded apiary conditions caused colonies to have more mites. Overall, keeping entire apiaries of mite resistant honey bees in direct sun resulted in colonies having the fewest mites...Exposure to sunlight retarded mite population growth while prolonged shade accelerated it, causing the death of many of the Italian colonies." USDA ARS

But hive overheating (that could lead to a swarming) is one of the serious problems with "direct sun" location of hives.
Nevertheless, the solution is very simple - a perfectly ventilated hive. And a pitched roof with a big attic space helps to reach this goal, otherwise you have to install an extra awning...

In the winter that space should be filled with insulation. Bogdan and his wife follow my recommendation - they use wool.

Dry hive (walls) is an additional benefit of pitched roof.

Boris Romanov


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## North Hadley (May 10, 2015)

Boris where can I get the wool insulation that your friend has in his hive ?


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## Arch (Dec 3, 2014)

As a newer bee keeper I made one very similar thinking this type of arrangement was more convenient. Howver I did not include the boards on top of the frames which appears to also offer the 3/8" space. I simply laid a piece of cardboard over the top of the frames in winter which didn't allow the bees to travel over the top of the frames which forced them to go down to the bottom and then up again. I lost the colony in February last year during a below zero cold spell. The bees had full frames of honey stores in adjacent frames however I suspect they didn't break their cluster to travel so far for the honey.
Thanks for posting I have renewed interest to make modifications.


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