# Top Bar Winterizing



## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I would pull some bars on whichever end is closest to the brood. Slide the bars with brood to the end. Fill the rest with honey. A few empty bars at the end with the bees won't hurt as they need somewhere to cluster. If the hive is heavy (100- 150 pounds) with honey I'd stop feeding before you get the cluster area filled with honey.


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## Countryboy (Feb 15, 2009)

_Slide the bars with brood to the end._

When do you position the broodnest to one end? I moved the broodnest to one end at the beginning of September when I did the last pull of honey on a TBH, and left frames of honey on the other end. 

Is there any certain time you move the broodnest to one end? For example, a few weeks before a killing frost, right at the killing frost, etc?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

Better twice than too late... October sounds good to me, but some years it turns cold and stays there from September on. Some years it doesn't get cold until November or December...


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## rlw4342 (Aug 6, 2010)

Michael, thanks for your suggestions. As I figure out which bars to pull (I assume you mean remove existing bars with comb and replace with a new bars?), I have several that appear to be partially pollen and partially honey. I presume it would be best to leave the pollen combs, vs take ones with all honey? In two of my hives I have brood comb that has only a small amount of brood remaining. I guess these would be the best candidates to remove in the next few weeks, as the remaining brood cells hatch? Also, should I be concerned about the hive that only has a realtively small amount of brood remaining, as compared with the other two which still have a lot of active brood? We still likely have about another good month of warm weather here in NC, before it turns consistently cool. Thanks for your comments..


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>As I figure out which bars to pull (I assume you mean remove existing bars with comb and replace with a new bars?)

No. I mean pull the existing bars with comb and set them aside (upside down on a flat surface usually works) then move the brood nest over, then put them back in. This time of year I wouldn't take anything.


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## rlw4342 (Aug 6, 2010)

Got it......move the brood bars toward the entrance end, replacing several honey/pollen bars which are currently in the front, and then move these behind the brood, toward the back. Right? Thanks..


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## rlw4342 (Aug 6, 2010)

I will try to take a picture next time I go in, likely later this week, or weekend. Thanks..


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## rlw4342 (Aug 6, 2010)

In response to 'Old Timer's' request for pictures, I'll try to attach pictures I took just this afternoon. Turns out I've got 5 bars of Brood in the weaker hive. I'm not good at spotting the Queen, except in my one hive which has a marked queen. I don't seem to find the Queen in this one, but again, that does not mean much. I also don't see much except spotted brood remaining and no newly hatched larvae or eggs. Again, not sure whether to be alarmed, or just let nature take its course. If you can make out the pictures, I'm tring to attach 10 shots, front and back of the 5 brood combs in which I see any capped larvae. I did take earlier suggestion and move about 4 bars of honey, or partial honey to the rear, just behind the brood combs. I left two partial honey commbs at the front entrance, in between the brood and the front of the hive. Again, thanks !!


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## rlw4342 (Aug 6, 2010)

Well, sorry about the pictures not attaching on earlier reply. I now realize I have too many pictures, but here's a sampling. Not sure how much you can tell. Thanks again..


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## Adam Foster Collins (Nov 4, 2009)

I'm finding that in my tbh's with the entrance at the end, the brood nests are located at that end anyway, so as it's getting colder, they are already clustering up there. So I didn't have to move anything.

Adam


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>I'm finding that in my tbh's with the entrance at the end, the brood nests are located at that end anyway

Which is why I like the entrance at the end. Some people have them in the middle or they have them scattered all over. Neither works well in my opinion as they don't always guard all of the scattered ones and they may end up with the brood in the middle which can be fatal in winter.


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## Beethinking (Jun 2, 2008)

I start mine at one end with side entrances, and these are the same style we sell. I find they work much better than starting colonies in the center, or end entrances for a couple of reasons. 

I prefer them over center entrances for the reasons already explained: The honey often gets stored on both sides of the colony and requires manipulation by the beekeeper to re-organize it toward winter.

I prefer these over end entrances as well, as with two follower boards I can easily access both sides of the colony (brood side and honey side). This way I don't end up needing to move the honey stores out of the way in order to access the brood chamber.

As long as I start the colony at one end I have had no issues with needing to re-arrange honey toward winter.

Matt


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## Adam Foster Collins (Nov 4, 2009)

Cacklewack said:


> I start mine at one end with side entrances...
> I prefer these over end entrances as well, as with two follower boards I can easily access both sides of the colony (brood side and honey side). This way I don't end up needing to move the honey stores out of the way in order to access the brood chamber.
> Matt


I've found that you can make a follower on an end entrance as well for accessing the brood end directly. Just make it shorter by the height of the entrance. It effectively makes the entrance just a bit deeper. It can also add that portion of the bee space that they're missing if you butt up a bar against the end wall, which often leads to them not using the first bar...

Adam


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## Beethinking (Jun 2, 2008)

Adam,

That is a very good idea I didn't consider! I'll have to remember that next time I'm discussing end entrances with someone. 

Thanks,
Matt


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## rlw4342 (Aug 6, 2010)

I'm not sure why my pictures were not approved, but thanks anyway for your help..


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## laurelmtnlover (May 29, 2009)

I have a question, why would it be dangerous to have the cluster in the middle? I assume to prevent it from becoming honey bound or working one way and starving because they went the wrong way? 
Last year,I put bales of hay on top to insulate and bales on each side for windbreaks. There is enough ventilation that way. The bees made it thru and used very little honey. I went from one hive to three with a split and a swarm. All three are protected and insulated with hay again this year.


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## Oldtimer (Jul 4, 2010)

The theory ( not saying I agree with it ), is that the cluster has to move side ways to eat their way through the honey. Then when they get to the end of it, it is too cold for them to move all the way back & start eating the honey at the other end. 

To me, this would depend on climatic conditions, it should only apply in a very cold climate. Your bales of hay might help. What if they got wet?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>why would it be dangerous to have the cluster in the middle? I assume to prevent it from becoming honey bound or working one way and starving because they went the wrong way? 

In a cold climate where there are no warm spells the cluster will get to one end and starve with food at the other end.


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