# Jigs for makign your own



## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Last week my table saw (contractor grade craftsman) decided to give up the fight.

I found a better quality craftsman with a cast iron table and standard parallel miter slots fro $50. I could not dream of finding this saw at that price. Other comparable saw where listed on craig's list starting at $275.

My old craftsman had flaky little custom miter slots so I was not able to make typical jigs and sleds. 

I am now in the process of making jigs for the new saw and wanted to ask folks to post about the jigs they have for the saws. Mainly just gather as many ideas as I can to help me decide what to make for mine.

I am only concerned with jigs used to make hive boxes or frames.

Ripping for box sides and ends as well as width and thickness of top and bottom bars i simply do with the fence. For for speed accuracy and consistency I am thinking of making a jig.

All cuts to length for anything I use a radial arm saw and a stop block. no issues there.

Groves in both top and bottom bars will need a jig.

I am also now able to shape an entire 2X4 or 2X6 into the profile of an and bar and then simply slice off the individual bars with the radial arm saw. Any jigs for among those blocks are welcome.

Each block will be planed to the correct thickness won a jointer. I make the bottom and top bar notch with a dado blade on the table saw. I then form the recessed side of the bar on a jointer.

Mainly for the end bar block I am looking for ideas on a jig or sled to hold the block for the dado cuts on the ends. Must place the dado dead center on the end of the block constantly and reliably. So far I am working on a sled but it will be a beefy one.

I do a lot of the cuts for the top bar on the radial arm saw but am slowly building jigs etc to make them on the table saw. This one has a lot of cuts and almost all of them are up for suggestions.

As a side project I would like to look at and even attempt as many ideas as I can. I would like to eventually do a video series on methods of making your own equipment. not just one way to do it. but to demonstrate as many methods as I can find. From the guy that only owns a cheap circular saw to the full blown wood shop.


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## windfall (Dec 8, 2010)

For endbar dados, one option is to use a variation on a tenon jig...lots of ways to make them depending on your saw...do an image search for ideas.
They are super handy for all sorts of small controlled cuts through end grain.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Daniel Y said:


> Ripping for box sides and ends as well as width and thickness of top and bottom bars i simply do with the fence. For for speed accuracy and consistency I am thinking of making a jig.


For making repetative cuts where you normally use the fence, (width of deeps,shallows, side rail bottom boards, frame rabbet, side of tops, etc, I like to make a pattern that anchors in the miter groove of the table saw, and acts as your fence without having to measure for each setting of the fence. This way, every time you use this pattern, the board will be the same as the previous time, and you do not need to measure each time to insure they are the same. I drill a hole in the pattern and hang it on a nail until I need it again.

Daniel... I think you already know this, but, just to be sure. The top photo shows the pattern and how the miter groove serves to make sure the pattern is the same every time. Used in lieu of a fence.

2d photo shows how I just hang them on the wall when not in use.


















THANKS RADAR..... NOW IT WORKS.

cchoganjr


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Cleo, I understand what you are describing, it is how I did it on my old saw. but due to the miter slots not being usable I had to make it the size of the table on the saw. sort of like a telescoping cover for the table saw. And yes it reproduces the exact same cut even after having been removed and replaced on the saw.

Very important when you make overrun stock. the stuff that is left over needs to be able to fit the parts made during the next run. I always have extra top bars. end bars or something after I get done.


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## Spinner (Jun 2, 2013)

*Re: Jigs for making your own*



Daniel Y said:


> ... wanted to ask folks to post about the jigs they have for the saws. Mainly just gather as many ideas as I can to help me decide what to make for mine.


Daniel, here's some images of my box joint jig. It cost less than $30 to build, including the miter bars, baltic birch plywood, T-bolts, threaded handles, maple fittings, and glue. It is fully adjustable. The only other requirements are a table saw (you have that now), and a high quality stack dado blade.









Above - Box Joint Jig - from the front, showing the board support, the front guard, and the miter bar slides









Above - Box Joint Jig - from the back, showing the board support, hand guards, and adjustment screws

Below - Box Joint Jig - top side. Fully adjustable spacing with the board support, and a matching key to index the boards
















Above - 
Box Joint Jig - Here's one of the hive body templates in place, showing where the cut would be made, and the indexing pin setting the finger spacing.

Even though the finger spacing is adjustable, it's usually a set and forget setup. The last image shows one of the templates I use to make sure everything is setup. In this case, it's one of the end board templates. I've cut many hundreds of hive bodies on this jig, and the only real wear point I've had is with the index key.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Daniel Y said:


> Cleo, I understand what you are describing,


Daniel... Good, because, I still have not been able to attach a photo. Radar is trying to help.

Thanks to Radar I fixed it and can now upload a photo.

cchoganjr


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Cleo, This is not the most photo friendly group. Limits have to be set for the sake of the group but they also make it difficult for many to figure it out.
type:









I was able to type the above on my keyboard. and that is the command for the internet to display an image.

So to find the address for the image you want it must first be in the internet somewhere. I am able to copy that address simply by right clicking on any photo and then clicking on "Copy image location". I found this page on the internet and decided I wanted to share the photo with all of you.
http://www.fresnobee.com/2013/12/16/3670979/epa-cited-in-honeybee-die-off.html

Now that link takes you to the entire page. but I want the photo to appear right here so you can see it as you read my post.









now i get to see if my way actually works here. ....

Sweet it worked. sometimes it does not for various reasons.
Okay while at the other page I right clicked the photo clicked copy image location then came back here to my post and typed the thing. and then right clicked and clicked paste after that command. it placed the correct address for the image in between the commands. I then added the backslash img with brackets and now the internet knows to go looking for a picture to show you. which of course it is doing.

Now i still have no idea why it displays the little thumbnail attached thing at the bottom of the post. This is also just one way to get it done. but for this particular group it is the only way I have found to actually show a full size image. 

I also realize it is by far easier to be there in person and just walk you through the process than it is to read it and understand it. I do not hold out a lot of hope that this little lesson does any good. maybe it will for someone else that comes across it though.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Now after having done all the above. I have a photo of my new to me table saw that I would like to show everyone. Now I have built websites. Btu I cannot figure out how to get that photo to upload. most likely it is to large or something. I may have something set in my profile and don't know it that prevents me from uploading it. I don't know and honestly I have not spent much time figuring it out.

It most likely is to large and needs to be made smaller. I am not going to do all that. Now a better program for the forums could just re size it for you when you upload it. but this group does not seem to have that feature.

But since this is the internet it is very likely that someone somewhere has already posted a picture of a table saw just like mine. I just have to find it.

SO I searched craftsman table saws search through images of craftsman table saws until I found this.









Now that is not my saw but it is very close to it. And it lets me share with others what can be done if you work at it. I got that saw for $50. I good example of a decent shop does not have to bankrupt you.

Anyway best of luck in gettign the image thing figured out. you have a lot of things to share that pictures would be helpful with. Love your trap out. I have one of them housing a late swarm from last summer right now. they are doing well.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Spinner... Nice sled. The only real difference in mine is that on the rear of the saw I extended the floor of the sled, and made it thicker there, so the saw dado blade runs under the sled. That way there is no way you can get to the blade.

I would encourage anyone building a sled to extend the rear enough, and make it thick enough, so that when you push the sled forward, the blade is still enclosed below the sled. No danger of getting cut by the blade.

Daniel Y... Am I not seeing it, or, does that saw only have one miter groove. Mine, and Spinner's has two grooves that the sled slides in.










cchoganjr


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Cleo, there are two miter slots. the fence is covering one in that photo. Very sweet feeding in comparison to my old craftsman contractor grade saw. I feel like I am in the big leagues. of course the wood moves easier than I am used to . resulting in a kick back with my first attempt to cut. took the shot right in the groin. nice move after all the posts I have made about kickback with the table saw.

So once again I will remind everyone.never stand in line with the wood you are cutting. your jewels will thank you.

I also agree with your buried blade thinking for any jig. The one I am working on now will not leave the blade exposed at any time. Hard to get cut by a blade you cannot touch.

I so need to get a camera. This idea is starting to sound like a lot of fun.

And yes Spinner. very nice jig. thank you for sharing it. It is a demonstration of the idea of takign the time to make a quality jig. it's pays off later.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Daniel Y said:


> I also agree with your buried blade thinking for any jig.


For cutting the rabbet for the frame rest, my wood slides under a wooden shield so you cannot contact the blade with your hands. Also anchored in the miter groove for repitative cuts without measuring and using your fence. Hope this photo shows it









For side rails of bottom boards, the board runs through a tunnel. As I feed one piece, it cuts and kicks the previous piece out.

cchoganjr


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## Spinner (Jun 2, 2013)

Cleo, your warnings about finger guards should be in bold, underlined, with flashing lights, and horns blaring. It cannot be emphasized enough. 

I am over-careful about my fingers. It helps to hold my jig to see how its design has some inherent safety built-in. An hour of cutting box joints can cause some inattention and complacency - all bad around a rotating blade.

Rather than opting for a thicker base, I chose to place a guard farther away. If you look at the rear picture of my jig, you'll see a horizontal solid maple piece between the vertical braces that fully cover the saw blade slot to keep wandering fingers away from the blade. Unless someone deliberately wants to put them in there, the construction provides more than adequate guard from the blade and escaping shavings and dust.

Also, the vertical board support is purposely tall to add finger and hand protection. It is tall enough that in normal operation, your hands are nowhere near the blade. In fact, if you extend your fingers as far as possible, you will still be 3-4 inches from the blade.

Finally, in operation, I rarely extend the jig past the saw blade. The board being cut is about 4 inches from the rear edge of the bottom board, allowing a full box joint cut without the blade being exposed beyond the horizontal guard. I actually had it about 4 inches larger, but found it created other safety issues with reach. I also had a much thicker base, but found prefer the lower profile base, allowing the dado blade to not extend so far above the table.

Any suggestions are welcome. I've had enough requests that I'm going to put it into a sketchup file and post it for others. Let me know any specific changes you think are needed, and I'll consider them in the plans. PM me so we don't sidetrack this thread.


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## rhaldridge (Dec 17, 2012)

Spinner, where do you get those miter bars? I've always had to make mine out of hardwood, but those look much better.


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## Spinner (Jun 2, 2013)

I used the 18" miter bar from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. They are anodized aluminum and have width adjustment sliders. I also use UHMW strips for miter bars, but only if fully supported for their whole length.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Sidetrack all you want Spinner. that is why I started this thread. sleds and jigs add safety and I can search and sort to get the ideas.

Cleo. I know you have a whole assortment. keep them coming. I also use the blade cover and tunnel ideas. I also intend to use your handle making jig in three different configurations so far. One for the circular saw, one for the table saw and one for the radial arm saw.

Anyone that is willing to do sketch up drawings it would be much appreciated. I do them but will be a long time in getting them all drawn if I do it myself.


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Daniel, still on safety. What do you do for the wood dust? I tried to use my shop vac hooked into the dust outlet on the sliding cut off saw, and the table saw and a mask. It doesn't work that well. I end up with a lot of dust in the shed. I have taken to dragging the table saw outside and working there, but am not sure that I want to drag everything outside every time.
What are others doing that work? I don't anticipate making more than 20 boxes a year.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Adrian, I use the answer that most woodworkers, even serious ones, will not use. I have a tempest cyclone dust collector and 6 inch duct work in my shop. This was the result of over a year study on air movement and what will work as a minimum. I would be one that argues that shop equipment today does not even come with dust ports large enough to be effective. you cannot get what is needed with a shop vac and a 2 and a half inch hose. you cannot get the air movement needed with a 4 inch hose. It is 6 inch hose and 900 CFPM or you wasted your money.

I can go on and on about masks. post air filtration and such. but if you did not capture the dust as it was created. the dust collector failed. It does not good to wear a makes that when you remove it your are surrounded by the very dust you are attempting to avoid. it is coating the mask at that point. I could design a dust collector better than the one I use. but the manufacturing as well as cost prohibited it. My actual education in dust control came from Asbestos abatement training.

It is one of those topics that can bee argue endlessly though. But the final word is. did you collect the dust or not.

The cost of my system is well over $1000.

At the time I purchased it it was the only commercially made cyclone that was even close to adequate.


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Daniel, thanks. I think I'm going to continue to drag everything outside. There is no point in me protecting my lungs by not smoking and screwing them up with wood dust!


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## jamneff (Mar 5, 2012)

Hear is a video on youtub.com. The guy has a series of video on how to make all the wooden ware for beekeeping.http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrK2mG44wpQ


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

Adrian Quiney WI said:


> Daniel, thanks. I think I'm going to continue to drag everything outside. There is no point in me protecting my lungs by not smoking and screwing them up with wood dust!


As do we. No sawdust in our honey house. Set the saw outside with a forklift when the weather is right and get after it. We have a fairly protected south exposure where all of our sawing and spray painting take place.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Jamneff, that link is not working. I even copied and pasted it and did not get to any video.

On that note. there are tons of videos out there that show you have to make a hive. but they only show one way. that would be making this cut with this saw in this way with these guides. But to get a variety of methods you have to search for videos that use varying methods. and they are not always easy to find.

As an example find me one that demonstrates how to rip a board on a radial arm saw. It can be done. but you will be lucky to find anyone doing it much less demonstrating it. How about how to make a fence for ripping a broad with a circular saw? Cutting off a board with a hand saw.

What I am thinking of is a video that is just about cutting a board to length. and then demonstrating as many ways to do that as I can come up with.

Beekeeper are not woodworkers. and they are not inclined to investing a few thousand dollars in table saws. radial arm saw. jointers and all that fancy pants things we woodworkers consider critical. But they do have ideas about beekeeping and sometimes those ideas woudl require they can go out and put together some variation of standard equipment. a source for ideas on how to get that done and do it safely as possible would be valuable to this group. IT might also inspire more ideas being made and tested.

My interest in this is not to show people how to make that some old box. it is in how it might be used far beyond what i can imagine. But I have to start with a central subject that woudl then be applicable to the widest range of variation in ideas. How to make standard equipment is the point I have chosen. How to make that equipment with the widest range of methods is the point.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

Daniel Y said:


> I have a tempest cyclone dust collector and 6 inch duct work in my shop.


What tools in your shop are you using your dust collector for?


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Two lathes, table saw, band saw, radial arm saw. drill press, scroll saw.grinder and buffer. I now need to add a jointer. I still have to add a down draft table for other tools. I also move a lot of stuff outside as well. Much of my equipment is getting to heavy to move.

Note, a movable duct is helpful in reducing costs. It is a 6 inch flexible hose that will reach much of my shop. It works for smaller equipment that requires less air movement. but woudl never work for a lathe table saw etc. that require monster vacuum.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

jamneff said:


> Hear is a video on youtub.com. The guy has a series of video on how to make all the wooden ware for beekeeping.http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrK2mG44wpQ




Oh my, I'd not copy his table saw procedures.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Barry, I am not able to see the video. but your reply indicates what I suspect. so I will comment on it. Much of what you can find is not good advice. They use dangerous methods etc. so I am going to assume that is what you saw.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrK2mG44wpQ

at 1:30, 3:30, 4:12

Not to mention his radial arm saw technique is also dangerous.

6:49, I cringe.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Okay I finally manged to get to it. and Barry is exactly right. In fact I could nit pick the hell out of that. including the use of the radial arm saw. I wail just for the purpose of drawing attention to being safe and thinking you are being safe. notice that at the end of the cut on the radial arms saw when he reaches back to pick up the piece. he places his hand in the line of cut with the blade. that is a no no. One of the most famous woodworkers I know that made furniture that sold for thousand of dollars lost no fewer than 6 fingers during his career with that exact same seemingly safe move. He himself said that it is funny but every finger he cut off was done after he was finished working. Now to the guys credit. the saw blade has stopped moving. but in many cases it woudl not be. Avoid developing bad habits.


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## jamneff (Mar 5, 2012)

Sorry not sure why it didn't work but I will try again www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrK2mG44wpQ.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

I have gotten a coupel fo jigs amde for my new saw. i wll try to get some decent pictures of them. All I have right now to get pictures with is cell phones. and it drives me nuts because I know how to use a camera.

These are a coupel of my very favorite becasue they are simple to make and protect you very well from some of the "Easy" innocent type cuts. lieke the one that almost took my sons finger off last summer. They make cutting very small pieces like bottom bars for frames very safe.
Anyway I just wanted to drop in and let everyone know I have not dropped this project. it will just be a bit slow in getting put together.


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## mbwalton (Apr 22, 2013)

Daniel Y

I appreciate the photos of your box joint jig, but do you have a pattern of what you made it from?

I just bought a new T'S off of Craigslist. RIDGID T'S 3660 4 years old, but still in the box never assembled for $400. Higher price than some here have paid, but the saw was still new & new it sold for $600.

Appreciate any info on box joint plans that you made.
Thanks
Marvin


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

I do not have drawings right now but I can do them on Google Sketch up. I will see what I can gt done through this weekend. I am still in the middle of getting 93 new boxes and their frames made.

Here is a good graphic demonstration of a jig how it is made and how it is used. You can make the width of the notch as wide as you want as long as your saw will hold a blade that wide. you also place the indexing block the same distance form the blade as the notch is wide. It is very important that your notches and your fingers are the same size.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/interactive/finger-joint-jig-for-the-tablesaw/


They are also not really showing that underneath you would have two small strips of wood that fit in the miter slots of your table saw.

AS for the other jigs. I can give a discription of them. not sure they will be that easy to follow.

First the idea is to be able to rip a board to a consistent width time and again. in my case hundreds of times. do so accurately quickly and with very little to no chance you could cut of a finger. In this case it is a piece of wood that will be cut 1/2 inch thick and 5/8 inches wide for a bottom bar of a frame.

Rather than use my fence set at 1/2 inch from the blade. I take another piece of wood that is just slightly thicker than the wood I am making bottom bars form. so it I am cutting bars from a 3/4 inch pine board I want the board I use as a fence to be slightly thicker than 3/4. 25/32 will do. I glue and screw or nail a miter slot rail to the bottom of this bard so that when put in place the edge of the board is parallel to and 1/2 inch from the blade. t is important that all of this lines up straight with the blade and is accurate as to it distance form the blade. this set up will now determine every bottom bar you ever cut with the jig. take your time and do this part well.

Now I have a board that has a little 3/4 inch bu 1/2 inch deep strip of wood glue dot the bottom of it that when I fit that little strip of wood in the slot of my table saw it leaves a 1/2 inch space between the blade and the board edge every time. no measuring no fuss.

I set the blade depth so that only about one tooth will be exposed when it has cut all the way through my wood. so for cutting through a 3/4 inch piece of board I set the saw at about 7/8 inch height.

Now if you image I am cutting a bard is piece I cut off my hands are getting closer and closer to that blade. not a good thing once your hands start gettign two inches or less from it. That blade sticking up is also dangerous at any other time. lose track of where you are putting your hands for even a moment and you can get seriously hurt. so how do you insure your hand cannot touch that blade? I do it this way.

Once I have made my guide for the width of the cut. I glue another piece of wood on top of it. this piece of wood sticks out over the blade. I then raise the blade until it is just cutting into that upper block. the blade does not go above the piece of wood. I also make this block long enough that it stick out in front of the blade and goes past it far enough that no blade is every exposed in a way I can easily come in contact with the blade. I would have to slide my hand under this block to touch the blade. Now I have the blade surrounded on three side. the fourth side must remain open because I am cutting a board that will vary in width with each cut.

Now I have my bard cut up into a bunch of 1/2 by 3/4 inch strips. you can stop here and the drawing actually show a bottom bar is 3/4 inches wide. but I make mine 5/8 inches wide. To do this I turn on my saw and raise the blade so that it passes up through that second block that I glued on about 5/8th of an inch. I carefully mark a line parallel to the blade that is 5/8 inches from the blade and glue a piece of wood along that line that is just over 1/2 inch thick. IN short what I am doing is making another jig right on top of my first one only this will cut my board even smaller and the pieces I will cut will be a consistent width and thickness. I will also enclose all 4 sides this time. so once I have the first piece glued on and dried or clamped in place I lower the blade and place one of the bottom bars in place. this shows me where to glue a second strip of wood to the other side of the blade. now I have guides that will run down both sides of the bottom bar or a trench so to speak. I want the fit just a little bit loose. I then place another piece of wood over the top of these guides making a tunnel that is just big enough to push one of my 1/2 by 3/4 inches bottom bars through. again making it long enough that at no time is the blade exposed. raise the blade up again until it just cuts into the cover of this tunnel but not through it. you can now shove you bottom bars through this tunnel with very little concern of every touching the blade.

My actual jig has this second tunnel built on it's other side. so I spin my jig around to make the width cut. I then do a second jig above this one that will hold the finished bottom bar to cut the notch in it.

At no time during any cut for making a bottom bar are you able to even see the blade.

I hope you are able to understand that explanation because it does make working with these tiny pieces of wood much safer.

Otherwise I will just end with this. never ever for any reason put your hands within 2 inches of a blade. use push blocks. use craps of wood. by extra wood to make those things if you have to. it is simply not worth loosing fingers or worse. I actually do not even allow 2 inches. I don't ever want an exposed blade. it is that simple. bad things happen and they happen fast. I personally know of two people that have lost half their hand to the table saw. And I know of a third via the internet that I spoke directly to that did also. It just is not worth it. Even with all that the table saw will still hurt you with kick back.


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## mbwalton (Apr 22, 2013)

Daniel,
I can picture what you are describing.
I can tell you first hand how dangerous a T'S can be. 8 years ago I cut 2 fingers, (not off) but I can speak from experience it happened so fast if I had not have seen blood on my garage door I wouldn't even have known it happened! Strangely enough I felt no pain, nothing!

Needless to say I have a totally different respect for a table saw. I will not put my fingers anywhere near the blades! 

That is why I am so anxious to make jigs/sleds for making whatever equipment I decide to make.

I appreciate your help & description, but I'm looking forward to constructing the jig to create my own box jointed equipment. I'm fully aware that rabbet joints work also, but I want to use the box joints for other things that I decide to build also.
Regards, Marvin


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## mbwalton (Apr 22, 2013)

Spinner

I really like the looks of your box joint jig also! Do you have any plans for the one you have constructed?

Appreciate a parts list & drawings if you have anything.

Regards,
Marvin


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## Knisely (Oct 26, 2013)

Cleo & Spinner: 

The work you've put into designing those jigs is clear, and the benefits to you are also clear.

Your work'd benefit a lot of us if you could post some plans (dimensions) so that everyone who accesses BeeSource in the future looking for plans for jigs could benefit from the careful work you've done.


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## Denis Allan (May 13, 2012)

Just wanted to chime in. I'm new to bee keeping and somewhat new to wood working. I to love jigs for anything that I'm going to make more than a few of, and box joints, rabbit joints, and frames all should be made with some type of jig. even drilling the holes on the end frames could use a small jig to index the holes in the same places. I'm heading off to work right now, but will post some pictures of my crude jig work so far. If is saves someone from a splinter, it's well worth the efforts.. Personally, I'd like to see a " show us your Jig" section. Talk Soon
Denis Allan


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

I did a quick sketch up of the ripping jig. I hope it helps some of you get the picture of how it works.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=9509cbe73221c3b3722549dbedbe31c5


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## mbwalton (Apr 22, 2013)

Daniel,

Thank You for the drawing. 

I plan to make one.

Marvin


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## Knisely (Oct 26, 2013)

Me too. I also like Denis Alan's suggestion of a 'jig' section somewhere on this website for those of us who'd rather keep bees than mis-cut lumber.

JK


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