# Repair Information for a Safnatura Control Box



## Bee Goddess (May 11, 2011)

I have searched and called all of the suppliers I can locate and each one has no idea about this control box.

I have a 14 frame extractor purchased over 4-5 years ago. 

The control box is receiving power and the light blinks red on top, however it never switches to the blinking green, indicating its ready. We have taken the top cover off and have noticed one of the relays is not switching. The center relay (blue cover) on top is printed 4000 then beneath it is printed 24V DC.

I need to get this unit repaired before the end of June and would appreciate any helpful information or instructions. 

Thank you.


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## MAXANT (Sep 13, 2008)

They may have some English speaking staff that can help you. As they are a Italian company. If I not mistaken Brushy Mountain or Mann Lake might be one of their dealers
http://www.safnatura.com/

http://www.safnatura.com/web2011/CATALOGO_file/Page728.html


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

Do you have an electrical multimeter?

You need to determine if the relay is getting a voltage (sounds like 24V DC) or not. If it is, the problem is probably the relay, which should be fairly easy to replace.

If there is no voltage making it to the relay, the problem may be more complex.

Capacitors can hold a voltage, so if you don't know how to discharge them, you should look it up, as some capacitors can pack a whalop.

The following only makes sense if this device has standard, discrete components (ie, you can see transistors, capacitors, resistors and their leads are soldered on the bottom of the board after passing through holes).

If the relay is not bad, the problem could be almost anything, but _probably_ is a cracked solder joint. If you can remove the board so that you can examine the bottom (where the tracks and solder joints are)...get a strong light and a good magnifier. Look at every joint closely (especially any that see physical stress from wire connections and those that get hot...like transistors). If you can make out a faint ring that encircles the lead, the solder joint is cracked. If you are handy with a soldering iron, just reflow the joint (and add a bit of new solder as well). If you are confident, you can simply reflow all the large component leads.

It could be a lot of things, but cracked solder joints are #1.

Don't electrocute yourself, don't burn yourself with the soldering iron.

If you have a well lit high rez photo of the board, i may be able to help.

deknow


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## Bee Goddess (May 11, 2011)

To both of you who replied, Thank you very much.
I am currently testing it to verify it is the relay and replacing it if so.
If it isn't I will Pursue the 2nd post on contacting the manufacturer. Brushy Mtn & Mann Lake both say they never carried this item.
Will post a follow up if I locate a solution.
Thank you again


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## 100 td (Apr 3, 2011)

I don't know the answer, but a couple of possible things to check.
The control box probably won't switch to green unless the signal is received from the lock mechanism, which is possibly a solenoid latch with a proximity sensor. Make sure it hasn't moved or is loose, if it is not lined up correctly it won't send the signal to the controller to allow it to start. If the drum or lid has moved/bent/warped the same situation will apply due to the sensor and solenoid not being actuated correctly. The solenoid and sensor will need to be in the "correct" position to allow it to start. Hope this helps.


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## Bee Goddess (May 11, 2011)

It seems, from the test meter we used, no power is getting to the relay.
All components are soldered to the board and it will be difficult to try and remove everything to determine where the issue is, from underneath. 

~sigh~ A downfall to purchasing something not made in the USA. No one to communicate with on a technical standpoint, no schematic to get an idea of a layout diagram and no feasible way to get it repaired. Looks like I have a wonderful extractor and no way to power it.

I appreciate the input from everyone, now I have a new mission, to try a locate a replacement control box.


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## MAXANT (Sep 13, 2008)

Dont give up! Call or take it to a local motor repair shop. My guess is they can sort it out for you!


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## Tohya (Apr 6, 2011)

Post a picture of the top of the extractor and both sides of the control board if you can.


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## fish_stix (May 17, 2009)

If you can't repair it and the manufacturer won't help, here's an idea. One of our 8-10 year-old Dadant extractor controllers quit during a major extracting session in April. Needed one quick so we went to Ace Hardware and bought a 5 amp ceiling fan controller, as the motor is rated at just over 4 amps. Worked like a charm! Less than $15.00, out the door. We now have 2 of them because the second extractor quit shortly afterwards. Only one problem, the controllers work backwards. Have to turn the switch all the way clockwise to get slow speeds and then counterclockwise to increase speed. No biggy, I'll live with it for the price!


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## 100 td (Apr 3, 2011)

Bee Goddess said:


> It seems, from the test meter we used, no power is getting to the relay.


As noted previously, the controller will not supply power to the relay if it is not getting correct signals from it's inputs. Not saying the controller is not at fault, but at least make sure you are getting an input which changes state from the solenoid/lid switch.


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## Ozone (May 24, 2011)

I may have some 24v DC relays.


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## Bee Goddess (May 11, 2011)

Thank you all for the input. I am still working with it and have sent e-mail to the Saf Natura company in Italy.

Funny thing is every bee-keeping equipment seller I have called, swears they never sold that brand and if they did, it came from Maxant. I just laugh. Even though they show it on their online catalog they don't carry it. 

I have a friend who has the same control box and we are going to try his and hope it works. Pulling Wildflower Supers this week and getting ready to put Sourwood supers on. 

I love having a reversible extractor and it's in awesome shape, so some modifying may have to be done before next year. 

Will post updates as I get them.

Ya'll bee sweet.


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## MAXANT (Sep 13, 2008)

Why does everyone thinks it came from Maxant! Hahaha
We dont import machines, we make them in house. And the speed controllers and motors we use can be had direct from Grainger!
The only thing our shop uses/carries that came from Italy is our GEKA iron worker punch, and maybe a few slices of pizza here and there.


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## Bee Goddess (May 11, 2011)

TA~DA I FIXEDED IT!!! The safety block was messed up (maybe a short, it was old), so I dug around and found another one ( a brand new one), and she spins like a charm.

Ya'll were great offering me advice and tips and such and I do appreciate it. Hopefully, the next person that comes along with the same problem can't use the advice given here.

Yep! Maxant, I just laughed when they told me that. 

Overall, I have never had any issue with any of the Bee-Keeping Suppliers, from customer service all the way up to shipping everyone has been great. I do have to say Better Bee is my favorite. The customer service women there are awesome and handle dumb questions really well. They are familiar with the products they sell and great to visit with on the phone.

A big storm moved in so I wasn't able to pull supers tonight, guess I will have to double up tomorrow night.


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