# Anyone use frame spacers?



## S_Toast (Nov 20, 2010)

I'm thinking of using frame spacers in my hive body boxes. I think (in the beginning) it will be easier on me and my bees. But my question is reducing to 9 or 8 frames? Any suggestions?


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## angryhippie (Mar 11, 2010)

I believe frame spacers are only used within honey supers of drawn foundation in order for the bees to pull out the cells further and make it easier for the beekeeper to uncap the honey for spinning.


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## Mud Songs (Sep 30, 2010)

You might want to consider using dummy boards / follower boards.

http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=3364

I plan to start using them soon (once I make them). They provide more room for moving frames during inspections, reducing the risk of rolling the queen between tightly packed frames. The spacing between the frames doesn't change, but the number of frames in your box is reduced by one.


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## Erichtexan (Apr 21, 2009)

angryhippie said:


> I believe frame spacers are only used within honey supers of drawn foundation in order for the bees to pull out the cells further and make it easier for the beekeeper to uncap the honey for spinning.


That is what I thought too


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## HBBF (Feb 4, 2011)

Somebody else probably knows better than I but I think frame spacers are for honey supers to get fuller frames. I think also that your not suppose to use them on foundation that isnt drawn out yet, maybe run the chance of brace comb.


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## justinh83 (Aug 2, 2010)

With fresh foundation, load all 10 into the box until they are drawn out evenly. At that point start spacing. While I'm sure there has been and will continue to be great debate, at this time it appears that more honey will fit in less frames if they are spaced properly. This appears to be the case for either 8 or 9 frames. Can't go less.

8 frames appear to be the most efficient, however, I have seen less of the devices for sale that space them evenly. 9 frame spacers seem to be more prevalent. If you are open to building your own, I would build an 8 frame spacer for a 10 frame box.

If you go with the inserts that space them automatically in the box then they may be drawn out slowly.


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## NasalSponge (Jul 22, 2008)

My opinion, do not use the nail in kind especially in the brood chambers limits what you can do WAY too much! I would suggest one of these... 

http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Plastic-Frame-Spacer-Tool/productinfo/659/

OR

http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/9-Frame-Spacer-Tool/productinfo/660/


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## Bee Bliss (Jun 9, 2010)

This newbee read a lot of material and decided that I would not use spacers due to the following:

It is harder to clean up the propolis where the frames rest if spacers are used.

Frames IN THE BROOD BOX are supposed to be tight together in the center with the extra space evenly distributed at both outer walls.

IN THE HONEY SUPERS, it is very simple to just use the thumb to space the fewer drawn frames used. The bees draw out longer honey cells. This helps with uncapping. Saves the expense of the spacers.


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

Most modern frames have built-in frame spacers, they're the end bars of the frames. Standard frames have 1-3/8" wide end bars -- some of us (especially foundationless or small cell users) trim our end bars to 1-1/4" wide.


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## Katharina (May 2, 2011)

I've made my own frame spacer using a scrap piece of furniture grade plywood. It is easy to make. Simply measure the inside of your box, subtract 1/4" and divide the rest by the number of frames. This is the distance from peak to peak. You need to cut it as deep as needed to get the width of your frame between peaks. I think it was 3/8 inch for me. I use an 8 frame box so mine it build for that. I use it in the brood box too. The even spacing on drawn comb keeps it all neat.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I tried frame spacers and hated them. I tried 9 frames in a ten frame brood box and hated them. Push the frames tightly together in the center and leave the excess on the outsides.


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## wcubed (Aug 24, 2008)

Just to point out extremes of opinion on this subject - I use nine frame, nail in spacers from the bottom board to the cover and wouldn't have it any other way.

Walt


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## berkshire bee (Jan 28, 2007)

I have some supers that were given to me with nailed in 9 frame spacers, and I also have a pair of the metal ones that you push down on and like them both


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## ncsteeler (Apr 15, 2009)

I find that the bees have a harder time with beetles and worm larva in the crevices that nail in spacers provide.


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## wcubed (Aug 24, 2008)

Re beetle hiding places: Have seen this comment on other threads on the subject and abstained. It depends on how you apply the Stoller metal spacers. Kelley stocks two versions for different frame rest rabbet depths, and their new catalog is not very clear on applcation. 
(Went to the beebarn to get one of each to get this right.)
One type with a single metal fold is intended to be used on their deep brood boxes with the stand-up slide rail supplied with the box. We call it the clip on. The box has a deeper rabbet to provide space between the top of the slide rail and the bottom of the rabbet ledge. Makes it easier to rack the frames from side to side. The single fold is intended to hang on the slide rail and is tacked into place over the mounting flange of the rail.

The other type that they call a spacer for supers has a double fold in the metal with a strip of metal running the full length of the spacer. The metal strip rests on the bottom of the rabbet and the frame ends rest on it. 

We use the single fold model and close the angle. A couple of whacks with a heavy hammer is all it takes when the spacer is sandwitched between two pieces of 2 by 4. To install, eye line the notch in the spacer to be ever so slightly below the rabbet ledge and tack it into place. It is the angle of the first fold of the spacer that provides a hiding place for for varmits smaller than the bee. Close it up and forget it.

Probably should note that we don't use the deeper rabbets at all. We are quite fussy about maintaining bee space between boxes. When beespace is correct between top bars and the next higher bottom bar, there is very little junk comb between, and no cordwood drone cells in the early season.
Now, you see why we abstained on earlier threads on this subject.

Walt


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## Live Oak (Oct 11, 2008)

I use the nail in metal 9 frame spacers in the brood boxes and the nail in metal 8 frame spacers in the honey supers. I have tried brood boxes with all 10 frames installed but they just got too congested, joined together with comb, and very difficult to pull a frame out for inspection without hurting the bees as well as risk rolling the queen.


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## mrsl (Apr 21, 2010)

Don't use the frame spacers that are attached to the rabbet joints in the hive body. I used them in a couple of hive bodies & they are great hiding places for hive beetles; won't make that mistake again :doh:


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