# Circular Saw: As Table Saw & Dado Cuts



## Asia-Off-Grid (May 1, 2017)

So, if I can construct a homemade table and attach an inverted circular saw, would a Dado blade fit the saw?


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

It would not fit the saw on mine. The table saw has a bolt sticking out that you slide the blade on and then put a nut on. My circle saw has a bolt that goes through the blade and that is it. On the table saw you have a chance to see how many turns you can get. you may not be able to tell on a circle saw. I will say that I did many dados with just a single blade by making multiple passes. I still do on some of the smaller grooves cause sometimes it is easier then changing the blade. I would also say that if you have the space for it, by the time you build a top for your circle saw, you might have been able to buy a used table saw to get you by. Watch the bearings and motor though. I now have a dedicated table saw to keep my dado blade on most of the time. I got it for twenty five dollars and the fence is not perfectly square but it works great for what I do.

Good luck
gww


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

There are two kinds of dado blades. A so called 'wobble blade' can be adjusted to cut a larger kerf than a regular blade. A 'dado stack' is a pair of outer blades, and then some separate chippers that go in the middle. 

The point of either blade (at least as used with hive bodies) is to make a wider kerf (often 3/4") than a normal blade. The thickness of an installed stack dado is the width of the slot that you wish to cut (i.e. 3/4"), and the center blade bolt would need to be long enough to go through the dado stack and still screw into the blade arbor. That dado stack is not going to clear in any handheld circular saw that I am familiar with. And a wobble dado is not likely to work with a portable circular saw either.

But you don't actually need a special blade to cut dados. You can use a regular blade and just make multiple passes, shifting the position of the board (or the saw) to cut just to one side of the previous cut. Or, if you want to make rabbets at the _end_ of a board, make the first cut 3/4" from the end or the board, and then make the second cut with the board stood on end, and the 2nd cut at 90 degrees to the 1st cut. You will need a tall fence to do this properly.

If you really want to make hive bodies, I suggest a rabbet joint, rather than a box joint ...








Photo credit and more here: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/making-rabbet-joints-router/

.


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## Asia-Off-Grid (May 1, 2017)

gww said:


> It would not fit the saw on mine. The table saw has a bolt sticking out that you slide the blade on and then put a nut on. My circle saw has a bolt that goes through the blade and that is it. On the table saw you have a chance to see how many turns you can get. you may not be able to tell on a circle saw. I will say that I did many dados with just a single blade by making multiple passes. I still do on some of the smaller grooves cause sometimes it is easier then changing the blade.


I forgot about how the blades are mounted differently, between the two saws. Thanks for the reminder.



gww said:


> I would also say that if you have the space for it, by the time you build a top for your circle saw, you might have been able to buy a used table saw to get you by.


Not in a Third World country, unfortunately.

I will drop by the tool shop today, and get a photo or two of what they consider a "quality" table saw.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

What rader showed is how I make all of my hive bodys and the frame rest also. Where I find the dado to be most handy is in making frames. I also as of late have been using the dado to cut my hand holds on the out side of the boxes. But like I said earlier. I did multiple pass with single blade and built a bunch of stuff before getting a dado. It is still quicker to make a box like radar shows then to do finger joints. I have did both but now do all of them like raders picture.
Cheers
gww


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## Asia-Off-Grid (May 1, 2017)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> If you really want to make hive bodies, I suggest a rabbet joint, rather than a box joint ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I may very well, end up doing just that - rabbet joints. Seems to be a fairly strong joint. 




gww said:


> What rader showed is how I make all of my hive bodys and the frame rest also. Where I find the dado to be most handy is in making frames. I also as of late have been using the dado to cut my hand holds on the out side of the boxes. But like I said earlier. I did multiple pass with single blade and built a bunch of stuff before getting a dado. It is still quicker to make a box like radar shows then to do finger joints. I have did both but now do all of them like raders picture.


If that is the case for me, I won't be concerned with attempting to construct frames. For the price I can have them delivered to me ($2.00 US, each, including brass inserts, wire and wax, from one dealer - $2.50 from another, shipping included), I don't see how I could possibly make them cheaper. Wood costs more than steel here. My cheapest electricity is .20¢ US per kWh. So, they aren't actually giving that away. 

=========================

Guys, thanks, truly, for the education / information you are offering here. While I have heard some of these terms, I can't say I know much about them on a personal level. I just want to be able to build my own hive bodies, rather than paying $15 US, each, for disassembled deep hive bodies. Of course, the ones I get for $15 USD, come with dove tailed box joints, if there is such an animal? That's what they appear to be, anyway.


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## Jim_in_PA (May 17, 2016)

Paul, it would be safer for you to use a router with an edge guide to cut the rabbits for constructing boxes. Inverting a circular saw under a board isn't the "safest" practice, for sure...and beeks do need fingers to do what they do...


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## Fusion_power (Jan 14, 2005)

Most circular saws could be modified to hold a 6 inch dado. You would have to cut off the flange at the side of the saw, remove the blade guard, machine a bolt the correct size, and purchase a 6 inch stack dado set. IMO, by the time that was all done, you could probably purchase a tablesaw and have it shipped in. In addition, it would be a risky setup given that the bearings in a circular saw are not designed for the forces involved.

Be careful about purchasing tablesaws made in Asia or Europe. Most of them are made to hold a single saw blade. The arbor is not long enough for a stack dado.

Do you have 50 or 60 hz electricity?

I'm also in agreement with the above comments about using rabbett joints. I built equipment for over 40 years using rabbetts with very good results.


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

Just as a side note, my Craftsman table saw will not accept my stacked dado blade but my Makita table saw will. Due to the inherent dangers of trying to cut a 3/4" rabbit on small pieces with the dado, I use the saw to cut them as described earlier. A router mounted on a table works well also. I made a set of gauge blocks with my planer to help set the blade height and fence. Much more precise than trying to use a tape measure.


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## Asia-Off-Grid (May 1, 2017)

Jim_in_PA said:


> Paul, it would be safer for you to use a router with an edge guide to cut the rabbits for constructing boxes. Inverting a circular saw under a board isn't the "safest" practice, for sure...and beeks do need fingers to do what they do...


I will have to start working on getting a router. Hopefully, I can find one of decent quality. 

Regarding safety here, I know what you mean. OSHA would have a field day here.



Fusion_power said:


> Do you have 50 or 60 hz electricity?


50 hz, 220vac. Flip a coin to see if we will have power for the next 24 hours.  But, as I stated here, or in another recent thread, I have backup power. So, no worries regarding that.



JWPalmer said:


> Just as a side note, my Craftsman table saw will not accept my stacked dado blade but my Makita table saw will. Due to the inherent dangers of trying to cut a 3/4" rabbit on small pieces with the dado, I use the saw to cut them as described earlier. A router mounted on a table works well also. I made a set of gauge blocks with my planer to help set the blade height and fence. Much more precise than trying to use a tape measure.


Router and router table seems to be the way to go, for much of this, it is beginning to seem.


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## Gumpy (Mar 30, 2016)

You don't need a dado blade to do rabbet joints. Two cuts. One vertically, one horizontally. You do need an adjustable fence, though, but that's easy enough to cobble together. That's how I make my boxes. As long as you can adjust the height of the saw blade and the distance from the fence, you're good to go. If your lumber is slightly warped and crowned in the center, clamp a piece of 2x2 hardwood across the crown to pull it flat and run the vertical cuts on each edge. Then press the crown flat when you run the flat cuts.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

My old heavy craftsman table saw does take the dado set. I don't know how wide it takes cause I leave 3/8th inch on it all the time and make multiple passes when making bottom boards and such that need 3/4 inch. It is easier then changing the blade for me cause I don't make hundreds at a time. More like four at a time or so.
Cheers
gww


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## Fusion_power (Jan 14, 2005)

> Just as a side note, my Craftsman table saw will not accept my stacked dado blade but my Makita table saw will.


 That is modern imported lower quality hardware. The old Emerson saws will last a lifetime. I'm still using the 10 inch Craftsman tablesaw I bought over 40 years ago. It still works as well as it did when I bought it.


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

I made a mistake. It's not a Craftsman, it is a Skillsaw, and yes it is a cheap POS. Would much rather have a nice Delta with a good fence. But it serves it's purpose.


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## Bee Havin (Mar 1, 2017)

I think rabbit joints are better, because of the fact that they leave less end grain exposed to the weather. Which is where most moisture enters the wood the easiest. Just my opinion. It doesn't make me right.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

I have a skill saw that I run the dado on before I got the craftsman cheap. It would hold the whole stack but only give you about a turn or two on the nut. However the do make special washers for the dado. I have two about two inch washers but like I said earlier, I usually only go up to about three eights. I did do some hives with finger joints and use the whole stack and I am ashamed to say that I did it with only a couple of turns on the nut. I will say that I did burn out two skills (I think the bearings go bad and then the stator gets ate up). I up graded to a bosch which by the way is made by skill but is better.
Cheers
gww
Ps I did not burn the saws out with dados but did it cutting a lot of oak. They have a direct drive from motor to blade and the motor cost more then the saw and it does not have soft start and I don't know but even though I like using them ok, they are junk if you do a lot. I will say that I actaully burnt out three of them but skill did fix one under warrentee which amazed me for a two hundred dollar saw. It is now my back up saw.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

JWP, if you are interested in what looks like a better tablesaw at a reasonable price ...
https://richmond.craigslist.org/tls/d/table-saw/6314029926.html

... cast iron extensions (not pressed steel), induction motor belt drive (better clearance / depth of cut, plus induction motor is typically more powerful than "universal" motors, and more easily replaceable, if necessary). It looks to me as though someone added an aftermarket fence and longer rails. There might even be wheels on the stand (hard to tell from photo).

If interested, go look at it, and confirm that the blade arbor will hold a 3/4" stack dado set. Seller probably won't be able to tell you anyway.

I have a similar Craftsman (although mine just has the stock fence and rails), and its pretty solid. If that is a decent fence (examine it) the price is reasonable IMO.


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## gww (Feb 14, 2015)

The one I bought looks real close to that. I paid $25. It does not have a riving knife and the one in the picture looks like it has the gaurds and stuff but I would look for the riving knife to be sure. It takes two people to move it and so is for stationary use. Mine has a flexable shaft rather then a belt but I one hundred percent agree with rader that the motor being more easily replaceable is the greatest of bennifit. I bought my bosch used for three hindred and if I had seen a saw like rader posted a link to, I would have bought it for $150 in a heart beat if the fence is square and you can still see the ruler on it. (my ruler does is miss placed on mine cause I think they took two saws to make one).

Out if my three saws, if the craftsman I have was all there, It would be the best saw I have, no doubt, for stationary work.

I have been burnt on a few things that have the motor incorperated in the machine. I also took out a craftsman planer and threw it away because the motor cost more then the planer. I have a craftsman jointer that had a bad motor (bought used) and I was able to just put a motor from a tread mill (a dime a dozen) and put the belt back on and was in buiness.
Just my honest opinion.
Cheers
gww
Ps Rader, you are still the man in my book


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

Thanks Graham, when I upgrade it will be to Delta Unisaw with a Beisemeyer fence. Looking at buying a better (larger) router table for now.


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## Sovek (Apr 27, 2014)

To anyone reading this hoping for a solution to their problem of no table saw nor the money but can afford a circular saw, here is what you do. Harware store may sell 3/4 angle stock, grab one of those as a fence. Screws will work as a way to secure it if you lack clamps just make sure they dont go all the way through the wood and the smaller the better. Next measure the distance from your blade to the edge of your shoe, add whatever your thickness is that you need. In my case for a 3/4 rabbet 5" from the edge works perfect. Next set your depth to about 3/8s, this may be tricky though. Make multiple passes and then chip the wood out, next make side movements on your saw to clean up the cut. Its time consuming but if you only are building a single hive to try out, its a good method. If planning on making a few dozen, just break down and get a table s


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## Asia-Off-Grid (May 1, 2017)

Sovek said:


> ... measure the distance from your blade to the edge of your shoe...


First, if I may, what is the shoe?

Second, do you have any images of this build?

Thanks for the post.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

The "shoe" refers to the base plate of the saw.

I do have a tablesaw and a radial arm saw, but it is not easy or convenient to use those saws with 4'x8' panels, so I built several of these rip guides ...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Circular-Saw-Rip-Guide-My-Version/
... to cut panels with a portable circular saw.

One could also use this guide to make smaller cuts, in a similar fashion to what _Sovek_ was describing. 

Note the comments at that page about starting with a *straight* board as the rip guide. I am currently building kitchen cabinets, and many of the 3/4" 4x8 plywood panels from Lowes do not have _*straight*_ factory edges. :scratch: 

Use a stretched "string line" to verify any potential straight edge boards. I built (2) 8ft rip guides as described (using pre-made 1x3 MDF board and Masonite sheet), then cut one of them up into 50", 30" & 16" sections for smaller work.

From my perspective, if you build the guide per that page, the edge of the Masonite is always _exactly_ matched to your particular saw (no measuring of the shoe is involved). And, always use the guide so that the guide is on top of the piece you measured, and not on top of the cut-off. That way the saw kerf is automatically accounted for if you place the guide edge on your pencil marks.

Of course, one can buy a commercially made rip guide, but few of those come in an affordable 8ft length (probably due to shipping cost issues).

.


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## Sovek (Apr 27, 2014)

Asia-Off-Grid said:


> First, if I may, what is the shoe?
> 
> Second, do you have any images of this build?
> 
> Thanks for the post.


The shoe is the bottom part of the saw. You'll want to measure towards the widest part of the shoe, not the thin part. 

And no pictures as of yet. I made an amature mistake and forgot to factor in the rebates when I cut the end pieces and it was far too hot and humid to continue. I essentially gave up and wont be able to finish till this weekend  . I will take pictures or video doing this method.

like I said, there are way better methods to do this, router included. I may pick one up from harbor freight for like $50. I am just trying to get a proof of concept together to possibly sell these long hives locally.


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## pjigar (Sep 13, 2016)

I haven't read the whole thread but one thing to keep in mind: Running a dado blade requires lot of power. Even a direct drive table saw will have hard time running stacked dado blade.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

IMO a direct drive tablesaw is a poorer choice for running a dado blade than a belt driven saw. The direct drive saw motor is constrained in size by the fact that the _smaller_ the motor, the more clearance for depth of cut. On the other hand, a belt driven saw can have a _large_, powerful motor hanging out the back side of the saw and still get plenty of cut depth.

An AC induction motor as found in a typical belt drive saw is likely to be more powerful than a 'universal' style direct drive motor. If the belt happens to slip when you are cutting, something is not set up correctly.:shhhh:

The only drawback to a belt driven tablesaw is size and weight, which are really only an issue if you need it to be portable, or have to "put away" the saw after using it. If you can leave the saw setup in your shop, choose a _belt drive_ tablesaw.


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## Phoebee (Jan 29, 2014)

Asia-Off-Grid said:


> So, if I can construct a homemade table and attach an inverted circular saw, would a Dado blade fit the saw?


I used to own a Hirsch saw table, which allowed you to mount a circular saw or handheld router under it. It was a piece of junk compared to a proper table saw, but using it carefully I did manage to crank out a few small pieces, including a knickknack shelf with dados. I own some ancient dado blades, but in shop class we just made repeated cuts with a standard kerf blade, and that's what I've always done. Getting it set up squarely and keeping it that way is the challenge.

If your circular saw has the power required, is built to clear the blade, and you can find a blade for it (I don't remember ever seeing a 7" dado blade but I guess they exist), have fun and try it. But if you have a router, consider setting that up to make the cut instead. 

Personally, I'm eying good table saws, with rip fences that clamp down square and stay that way, because I've worked with junk long enough to that I find myself holding off working on a project because I dread fighting with out-of-square saws.


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## Phoebee (Jan 29, 2014)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> I do have a tablesaw and a radial arm saw, but it is not easy or convenient to use those saws with 4'x8' panels, so I built several of these rip guides ...
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Circular-Saw-Rip-Guide-My-Version/
> ... to cut panels with a portable circular saw.


I have several rip guides, including a two piece one that joins for 8 ft, plus about 30 and 50 inch ones with nice clamps. But my most recent saw purchase was a gently used panel saw. For cutting rectangles out of 4' x 8' panels, nothing beats these. I have the junk little Delta table saw mentioned above, a worn out 1959 Craftsman radial arm saw that needs squaring up and tightening, and a chop saw. Of all my saws, the one that makes me smile when I use it is the panel saw. Yeah, I paid nearly a grand for it, but the pleasure it gives me is what has me looking at putting some money into replacing the table saw with a respectable one.


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## mathesonequip (Jul 9, 2012)

Asia-Off-Grid said:


> So, if I can construct a homemade table and attach an inverted circular saw, would a Dado blade fit the saw?


no...... a belt drive table saw is the answer, look on craigslist.../... i did not notice cambodia. as hoot owl says maybee a good router and straight edge. for dado cuts you will need carbide cutter blades, high speed steel will not hold up .


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## Hoot Owl Lane Bees (Feb 24, 2012)

Asia
After reading this all the way through I would try to find the router as you said.
You could use it handheld or make a table for it to cut the rabbit and the frame rest.
I use the rabbit edge but I have 2 radial arm saws with dado blades set up just for cutting the end boards. 


Good luck finding a good router over there in Cambodia.
This is a good example of how much we are blessed in the USA.


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## rwurster (Oct 30, 2010)

This does sound like a job for a router. A router table with a fence is very easy to make. I also have a "table saw" that I built with an inverted circular saw and it works great for what I use it for. I typically don't use dados very much, I cut rabbets with the regular 10" blade and dados with the regular blade. If I have to cut multiple dados I typically use my router table for the dados. I would suggest getting a fairly powerful router with a 1/2" collet.


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