# Moving a Trapped Swarm



## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

I think the closing them in for three days and the leafy branch things are beekeeper myths. Too many recent reseach papers and experiments prove that the bees geolocate to a particlar location and don't really reorient when their visual cues remain fixed. But that is for another discussion.

I am crazy about splitting hives for growth. So... I would remove all but one frame of eggs and young brood from the swarm trap and put the queen, nurse bees and all the other brood in a hive or nuc as appropriate. Leave the trap there with its one frame of brood and some frames of comb. Let the flying bees return to the trap and make a new queen. 35 to 40 days later, take the trap down and nuc the bees for the winter. Most of the foragers will have died off and the new queen will have just started laying. At that point, you give them a frame of ready to emerge brood and a shake of nurse bees from another hive and its off to the races.

See, told you I was crazy.


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## dux (Feb 18, 2012)

Wow. That is a suggestion I definitely wasn't expecting. 
Thank you! That is interesting... And tempting

Do you not think it's too late in the season to make a split here in Virginia?


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

I made five splits this past weekend and have two more to do this coming weekend. Two had qc's, the rest are walkaway splits. The key with summer splits is sugar syrup and pollen patties. And most importantly, robber screens when the hives are close together. If you were so inclined to try my suggestion, I would put 1/3 of a patty in the trap when I closed it back up. Good forage is getting scarce here in the Commonwealth.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

200 yard away...

Prep a new hive for them in your yard.
Late in a day (8-ish?), chase the remaining bees inside (smoke or water spray or combination of these).
Close them in (staples and screen).
Get the darn thing to the new hive anyway you can, but be gentle to not rile them up too much.
Open up the darn thing.
Give enough smoke; no need to be shy. Better over-smoke than under-smoke at this time.
Move the frames into new hive (I assume no cut-out is needed since there are frames present).
Slam the darn thing so the bees knocked off the walls into the floor.
Damp them into the new hive.
Close the new hive.
Create a reorientation barrier (lots of recipes to choose from).
Leave the empty trap by the hive (stragglers will find the new home later).
Done.

I mean, this is a basic deal. Just do it.

PS: you may keep them in the cool basement just fine too; good ventilation is needed.

PSS: any nuc ideas and such I would rather handle directly in the yard, not on a deer hunting stand;
just get them off the stand safely and don't try your beekeeping gymnastics up there; 
not worth it.


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

200 yards away...

I don't know who is the owner of that place but, I would be tempted to just install the new hive right under the stand.
Dump the trap into it without even moving it at this time.
Done.

Do splitting and such if wish. 
Safely.


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

GregV, that is how I am going to work a trap I have in a tree about 50' from my hives. Going to strap the hive to the tree underneath the trap initially. Also will be painting the hive with designs to help the bees recognize it as I move it closer to where I want it every week. That or take to my outyard 30 miles away.

Ps. I did mean for dux to take the trap out of the tree stand first. No aerial splits.


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## dux (Feb 18, 2012)

I would place it under the tree but for the horses...


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

JWPalmer said:


> GregV, that is how I am going to work a trap I have in a tree about 50' from my hives. Going to strap the hive to the tree underneath the trap initially. Also will be painting the hive with designs to help the bees recognize it as I move it closer to where I want it every week. That or take to my outyard 30 miles away.
> 
> Ps. I did mean for dux to take the trap out of the tree stand first. No aerial splits.


In general, I am not too concerned with bees being lost. 
I feel the entire thing is overblown in the grand scheme.
I just move 'em and force reorientation.
No time to worry of little "collateral damage".


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## GregB (Dec 26, 2017)

dux said:


> I would place it under the tree but for the horses...


You can fence it in temporarily.
But yes, bees and horses do not mix too well.
Just move the darn thing, especially if horses anyway.


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## jadebees (May 9, 2013)

I think the closing them in for three days and the leafy branch things are beekeeper myths. 

The branches are used for moving an established hive a short distance. Say, 100 yards. Placing an obstruction loosely at the entry takes them off "auto pilot", makes them pay attention to where they are. Most will reorient. Put an empty box at their old site. Carry the stragglers to the new site. They soon get it.
It isn't a myth, you just don't do it with new swarms.


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## Eikel (Mar 12, 2014)

I'm a little more simplistic on moving swarm boxes, post cut outs and hives for that matter. Go after dark or before sunrise, get as many in the box as practical before installing one of my robber screens, close the entrance, make sure the box components are screwed or strapped together, put them in the truck and transport to the yard. Set them in their new location, open the robber screen either all the way or reduced entrance and walk away until daylight or in a day or two. At that point transfer them to their permanent hive or do any additional manipulations.
Deal with the stragglers or not depending on the situation and if you're installing another box at the location.

If you still have bees on the outside during the removal I'd wear some protection and try to minimize smashing any, I'd plan on your box being heavy


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Brilliant beekeeper Charlie B invented the method of placing your bait hives right on the stands you want them to end up on. You should have done that.


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