# Mounting that Ezyloader



## Allen Dick (Jan 10, 2009)

Are you planning to have legs to prevent roll?


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

It is not necissary to have legs with this system.
The model #200 lifts 440lbs (200KG) and roll is minimal.
Here are some pretty pictures to look at. 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00284.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00281.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/Almonds2005013.jpg

1) Follow the instructions carefully on the lower frame suuports that are required.
If you rear-end someone or hit a solid object without the unit properly and safely mounted, it could slam forward and smash you like a pancake.

2) There are two upper mounting points where you drop two 5/8" bolts through the bed to a point below. Make sure whatever they bolt to is SOLID.
This keeps the frame from flexing and rocking forward or back which would throw things off level. Basiclly you want the unit to be attached SOLIDLY to the truck.
Remember, when you are 16 feet to the front or to the rear of the truck with the cradle lifting acouple hundred pounds or more, this is a LOT OF LEVERAGE on the frame of the unit. Mount it solidly.
On my truck, my bolts drop through the aluminum bed to 3' inverted steel channels that I gusutted to eliminate flex.

3) They have changed the winch from the model that I have so bear that in mind.
Mine came with a 2HP winch (1500 watts) of very high quality.
It runs around 120 amps.
BUT, every time you start the winch the in-rush bursts to over 300 amps momentarily!! 
I mounted two HUGE schoolbus batteries in enclosures.
Do not use deep cycle batteries. This is the totally wrong application for deep cycle.
You need regular batteries of high capacity that can punch out big amps to reduce heat.
If I think of it I will try to get the numbers off of my batteries, bu I can tell you that they are twice the size of the batteris in my truck.
With these, I can fully load or unload without starting the truck.
Make sure to Isolate the boom batteries so that you can start your truck in the event of???? Also if you leave your lights on in your truck or somthing and accidently run the truck batteries down, it is nothing to just cross the Isolator with you jumper cables and give yourself a jump from the boom batteries.

4)Although they advertise the ezyloader lifting all kinds of stuff; don't do it.
The winch on mine has 10 times the power that the boom can manage, and you won't realize that until you bend something. Guess how I know about that? 
My policy: lift beehives and supers only.

5)Develop a procedure for folding and unfurling the boom and go through the same motions every single time.
Reason? Twice, I have driven off with the boom unfurled, (it was in the locked position, I just didn't fold down.) and almost had a catastrophy.
The first time I heard branches snapping from trees hanging over the road, pulled over and realized I still had the boom vertical. Had I gone another 1000 feet I would have gone under a railroad tressle and wiped the whole thing out.

I'm sure I will think of more....


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## Allen Dick (Jan 10, 2009)

> It is not necissary to have legs with this system.

You have it mounted at front. I understood the question was about rear mounting. Also, you have the lighter-duty model.

Seems to me that a rear-mounted heavy-duty model might benefit from some legs, and if trailer mounted, that might be in order, too, not that this was suggested here.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Could an EasyLoader be used to lift a Pallet (500 lbs?). 

Is there a US supplier of is it just Canada and Australia.


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## Keith Jarrett (Dec 10, 2006)

Nice pics, Harry


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## doc25 (Mar 9, 2007)

A secondary truck could be loaded side to side. If you're loading a trailer then you would probably want it in back. If you're unloading at a dock you might prefer it in the front so you can run a jigger on your deck. Then again you might want to mount it on a smaller truck and just use it to load/unload other trucks.

How much does one of these units cost new?


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

Allen Dick said:


> > It is not necissary to have legs with this system.
> 
> You have it mounted at front. I understood the question was about rear mounting. Also, you have the lighter-duty model.
> 
> Seems to me that a rear-mounted heavy-duty model might benefit from some legs, and if trailer mounted, that might be in order, too, not that this was suggested here.


I wasn't sassing you Allan; sorry!
Actually, there have been a few cases where I was way out to the side at full extension (16') and lifting a hive with honey supers on and did rock the truck slightly.
In that case, you hit the up bar and you hear the crane running. The cable tightens but the hive is still on the ground for a split second. When that heavy of a hive lifts off of the ground, you know you are really lifting something!!

One thing I left out is wire size. Not sure what winch they are using these days, but by all means go oversize on the wire!

Here's another pic; thanks Kieth!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/Almonds2005012.jpg


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

hpm08161947 said:


> Could an EasyLoader be used to lift a Pallet (500 lbs?).
> 
> Is there a US supplier of is it just Canada and Australia.


http://www.beekeeping.com/ezyloader/index.htm


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## Allen Dick (Jan 10, 2009)

Harry, your setup looks great. I've run an Ezloader at a demo and like it. I used a California-style boom loader for years until I moved up to forklifts, and even after for a while. I think the Ezyloader is much better -- ideal. The self-leveling feature is a huge improvement as is the folding arm which will clear trees and work in tight spots, and allow easy loading near the pivot point, unlike the long boom models. I'd love to have one right now.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

>>batteries, bu I can tell you that they are twice the size of the batteries in my truck If

1100 CCA should work? I use 900-1100 Ca batteries in my truck

>>You have it mounted at front. I understood the question was about rear mounting. Also, you have the lighter-duty model.

I have the 300 model on order. As I understand it comes with legs?.. So it says in the manual. I will be sure to consider them if they are not available.

I love the pictures Harry,
I am setting up on 2 way hive pallets for the loader to lift. I run doubles. I would like to run 4 ways, but that would be too much for the lift to handle. two hives at a max of 180-200lbs each is well within its capacity.

This machine is also allowing me to think of alternative methods of pulling honey. I am going to use bee escapes for honey pull. I have a neighbour that has alot of experience with them and this method is real appealing to me. Would not consider it without the boom loader.

Any thoughts,

THanks for the input Harry, keep it coming!


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

Love those photos Harry. Lookin Gooood. I'm thinking that the first row at the front of the truck is TONS easier with the articulation. We used to load everything with a straight boom.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

>>A secondary truck could be loaded side to side. 

That was my first thought, and probably how I will set my unit up. But if the unit is placed on the back, would it not provide a much more efficient set up? A yard could be set up very efficiently so the truck would nt have to move much during the yard work.

Another question is if I have the machine rear mounted, and allow movement to swing all round the rear end of the truck, how much over centre can I bring the machine while loading the deck. I understand it cant be swung right around, but can it go a bit further than 180 degrees to allow easy deck access. If you know what I mean. If I set up the loader facing backward to allow free swinging all round, how far over center can I bring the arm on its back side to access the deck?


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

My truck, not so shiny


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

>>How much does one of these units cost new? 

25000$ CND delivered for the 300 model with a waiting list


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

More info about the heavy duty batteries?
Thanks.


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

Ian said:


> >>A secondary truck could be loaded side to side.
> 
> Another question is if I have the machine rear mounted, and allow movement to swing all round the rear end of the truck, how much over centre can I bring the machine while loading the deck. I understand it cant be swung right around, but can it go a bit further than 180 degrees to allow easy deck access. If you know what I mean. If I set up the loader facing backward to allow free swinging all round, how far over center can I bring the arm on its back side to access the deck?


Not positivly sure about anything with the 300.
But with mine, there is no need to turn the unit around. The boom will follow you around the truck.
However, You are advised to "not cross the tray of the truck", meaning, set a point on the truck as a point not to pass. Reason? Every time you rotate the boom past 360 degrees you wind the heavy power cable (which you cannot see) in the mast.
If you were to go around and around the truck all day long, eventually the cables would wind up tight inside the mast and ????? 
So I always boom around the truck and use the trailer hitch as my stopping point.
I do allow myself to break the rule if common sense dictates in a situation, but then you just tell yourself to return from the direction from which you came.

Like everything I do, my bottom boards and matching pallets are drawn up on AutoCAD.
They are all the same.
They allow me to load the truck with a forklift, drive 185 miles to the carrots, and unload with the boom. Or, load with the boom onto pallets and unload with a forklift.
I love this arrangement. Here are some pictures of the pallets and bottom boards that I use. I do have drawings that I can e-mail you but they are dwg files so.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00227.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00300.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00226.jpg

I'll get that battery info.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

>>However, You are advised to "not cross the tray of the truck", meaning, set a point on the truck as a point not to pass. Reason? Every time you rotate the boom past 360 degrees you wind the heavy power cable (which you cannot see) in the mast.
If you were to go around and around the truck all day long, eventually the cables would wind up tight inside the mast and ????? 
So I always boom around the truck and use the trailer hitch as my stopping point.

Copy that.


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

The only thing I can find on my batteries is the recipt from Les Schwab.
Sorry, I want to help but not enough to disconnect my batteries and dig them out of their boxes. 

The recipt says, "31-951 STUD HEAVY DUTY 12 VOLT COMMERCIAL BATTERY"
I have two of these wired in parallel.

Here is a tip to remember. A friend told me this when I first got my rig and it is a real power and work saver:

If you are loading on a hill side or on any sloping grade, always point the truck up hill with the majority of hives ahead of the truck as far as you can reach them.
Follow me here:
You are picking up hives on a side hill.
You place your truck so that it is pointing up hill with the majority of hives as far ahead of the truck as the boom wil reach.
You level the boom. Although the truck and hives are on a hiil side, the boom is now orbiting the truck on a level plane. (piece of cake with Ezyloader!)
Now you take the cradle to a hive in front of the truck.
You lift the hive only 6 inches off the ground.
Then you turn your body with the cradle and boom in front of you and start walking down hill, along side the truck.
Because the boom is operating on a level plane, by the time you reach the spot on the bed where you want to place the hive, it is already higher than the bed in many cases.
As you walk down hill the cradle is naturally raising in fron of you because it is on a level plane and your feet are not.
So to load that hive, you only ran the crane 6 inches.
Same goes for unloading. Point your truck uphill toward your desired placement.
Lift the hive 1 inch off of the bed and depending on the grade you will run the crane very little.
Kenny Williams taught me that.


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

Thanks Harry.I will see what Schwab has. :thumbsup:


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## wglord (Nov 23, 2009)

Hey guys;

I have a small Ezy Loader and last summer somehow managed to have the cradle come loose and I ran over the whole assembly. After wondering 'what in the world I had run over' - it was a BIG bump, getting out of the truck, using some choice words once I figured out what had happened, I had to repair the damage. 

After considerable straightening and welding I realized I had broken the toggle switch that activates the winch. I got a new one, but I cannot find one with enough 'throw' so I have had to wrap the toggle with tape - not satisfactory. Does anyone have a North American source for such a switch? I cannot get the Canadian rep from whom I bought it to reply to e-mails.

I can post separately if anyone wants my experience with the loader in the southeast US. It is mostly good....

thanks,
Bill
Louisburg, NC


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## brushmouth (Jan 17, 2010)

Try Grainger's

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/to...lectrical/ecatalog/N-8gx?op=search&sst=subset
(double pole, double throw, if thats what it needs are a little tougher to find, but mcmaster has them 4 sure) 

Another source:
http://www.mcmaster.com 

BM


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

wglord said:


> Hey guys;
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bill,
I would love to hear your experience with the EzyLoader in the SE.
Herb


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## jjgbee (Oct 12, 2006)

I must be dense, but why wouldn't you pick up a Payne straight loader and build a folding boom to go on it? $25,000.00 ! A used Payne would be worth $2,000.00. Automatic self leveling is not rocket science and every hudraulic part on a payne wouldn't cost $2000.00 if it couldn't be rebuilt.


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## peacekeeperapiaries (Jun 23, 2009)

Ian, could I ask how many colonies you are managing. Just wondering if there are benefits to the EZY LOADER for a particular size operation vs. a small loader or skid steer. Thanks
steve


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

600-700 hives

>>I must be dense, but why wouldn't you pick up a Payne straight loader and build a folding boom to go on it? $25,000.00 ! A used Payne would be worth $2,000.00. Automatic self leveling is not rocket science and every hudraulic part on a payne wouldn't cost $2000.00 if it couldn't be rebuilt. 

no, your not dense, that alot of money.
payne straight loader works great, do you wonder why you dont see many of them around?
Awkward and sometimes easier to handle the work manually or with some other machine.
The Ezyloader basically is easier to maneuver, quick and easy to use. I know guys here that use this loader during most all operations during the year. Everything to be lifted is done by this machine. Anyone who uses those other such loaders basically only use it when the have to.

So, ya. Alot of money. The fellow buying it has to be able to justify its cost.

I have a skiddsteer to move hives and for honey pull. Works good. But I am pulling alot of dead weight, and it only helps with lifting pallets of equimpment here and there. It was a good first step in my operation. The loader is going to replace the skidsteer. THe loader is going to handle the lifting off the hives as well,


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## HarryVanderpool (Apr 11, 2005)

wglord said:


> Hey guys;
> 
> Does anyone have a North American source for such a switch? I cannot get the Canadian rep from whom I bought it to reply to e-mails.
> 
> ...


There are several manufacturers of toggle switches.
Two that I have used extensivly are Selecta Switch and Carling. There are a few more as well.
Do a Google switch for toggle switches and you should be able to spec out the switch from the factory site and then find a local distributer.
Is there anything written on the old switch?
If so post it; I probably can tell you the MFG.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

I am wiring the machine to it own set of batteries. I am thinking of splitting off wiring to a switch in the truck cab connected to the alternator so a quick recharge of the battery can be done between yards. Im going to run the machine off two 650 CCA batteries I have here sitting.

Any thoughts?


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## wglord (Nov 23, 2009)

First, I bought the Ezy-Loader because I didn't want to pull a trailer and have another piece of equipment with tires and and battery and motor to work on and worry about. I also wanted to stay small (250 hives) but had to have some way to move bees. The Ezy-loader is expensive - mine ran ~ $16,000 US by the time it was delivered but it is worth it. I know a back operation will run way more than $16K - that's the way I look at it.

My experience: I like it. The Loader is slow but steady. It is a bit of a pain to deploy and shut down, but once you get used to it you just go through the steps each time. The biggest problem I have is shutting it down - the hydraulic cylinders have to be set at the right elevation to engage a saftey switch on each cylinder or the boom will not lower - and the switches are hard to engage sometimes, particularly at night.

Once deployed the leveling feature is great. The winch is a bit slow but I find the slow and steady loading is much easier on the equipment and bees. When I hand-loaded I was prone to drop the hives the last foot sometimes.... I now find after a day of loading and unloading hives I don't feel like I have been 'run over' because the Ezy-loader does the work. 

My mechanic does not like separate batteries, so we put on the heaviest battery we could find and a governer to rev up the engine a bit to get the amps flowing. I run the truck engine while loading and unloading and have plenty of power, and the engine is running just a bit over idle.

I have it mounted behind the cab on a F250 (flatbed)and have no problems. Again, I want to stay small and mobile and the F250 is fine. I can move 22 hives at a time. I can only stack 6 in the first row behind the loader because the loader needs a bit of room (2 stacked over 4 across), but can then run two more rows of 8 (4 over 4).

Problems? The winch ate several cables but I finally got a round file and smoothed out the hole the cable ran out of and solved that problem. I had the cradle bounce out of the locked position last summer and ran over it (ouch) but now 'jerry - rig' it with a wire to keep it in place. I have trouble getting the boom to lower sometimes but that is because the safety switches have not engaged, so I engage them and boom it goes down. 

over all I am am pleased,
Bill Lord
Louisburg, NC


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

If I ran the same batteries in the truck, and to run the easy loader, the battery problem your mechanic pointed out should be an issue, im thinking. I considered running the truck during my work to keep the batteries fully charged while working but I also like the silence of a bee yard while working, if you know what I mean.
One of the more annoying things about blowing bees is the sound of the engines running.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

do you use cleats on your boxes, or do you use the hand grip cradle?

Any comments on either set up? 

My loader comes with both tines and hand gripping cradle. I see alot of advantage with using the cleats but if would much prefer not having to modify all my boxes.


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## wglord (Nov 23, 2009)

Ian, so what are you doing regarding batteries? I like the idea of silence, but what do you do when the batteries run down and you need to close down the loader?

Bill


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## wglord (Nov 23, 2009)

I use cleats, they are easier all the way around.


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## Ian (Jan 16, 2003)

I was thinking of running seperate loader batteries, connected to the truck batteries using a auxilary switch in the truck cab. If the truck holds 2 1100 CCA batteries, and I run the loader on one or two 1100 CCa batteries, as I move between yards, I can connect the loader battery to the truck batteries and have a charge between yards. Or I can have the truck run while using the unit also if needed.


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## mike haney (Feb 9, 2007)

Ian, be aware this will substantially shorten the life of the truck alternator. good luck,mike


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## jjgbee (Oct 12, 2006)

I have to disagree with Ian about straight loaders not being handy for all operations. Most were built 22 to 24 ft long. Yes those were hard to handle up close to the cab. But, lets compare apples to apples. My straight loader is 14 ft long , quick connected to the rear of my truck frame and could load 10 ft truck and 10 ft trailer bed for a 120 hive load and circle entire rig with the basket. I used it to slit super, and pull honey as well as move bees. The plus was that it takes 10 minutes to use the hydralics to lift it off the truck after pulling the quick release attachment pins and leave it home in an overhead safety rack and use my truck to pull a fifth wheel rv.


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## GrishaZ (Feb 21, 2019)

Hi.I need a technical passport for a loader. Where are the dimensions of the device. Send me an email please.


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