# Honey extractor choices



## thechristalfamily (Jan 5, 2020)

I am new to the hobby as of this spring. Like many of you here I have a love for bees and keeping them. I started with two hives and made splits to make 4 going into winter. I will most likely stay between 4-8 hives in total and I just got my brother-in-law and father-in-law into the hobby. They will each only have 1-2 hives. I am looking to buy a community extractor and am ok with the buy once cry once philosophy. I am thinking of the Maxant 3100p with the 9 frame basket. Is this the best choice or would it be better for me to go with a cheaper Vivo extractor since I do not have that many hives? One more note. I plan on only keeping 3 supers per hive, this means that I will have to harvest honey at least twice a year. Thanks in advance for your help.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

I own a 3100P and am very pleased with how fast it extracts and how clean(of honey) frame and comb are after extraction. It takes about three minutes to spin three deep frames to near dry. One needs a second person uncapping or need to stop to uncap. Really need one person attending the extractor to monitor getting out of balance and ramping up the speed. It is quality made but I wouldn't call it robust. The wood portion of the frame is close to dry after extraction. Extractor is small enough and light enough to be moved around readily.

The deep frames can only be processed in tangential mode which I don't mind at all. I have not done medium frames in radial mode, but think one could do 6-9(depends if you load the 3 frames in tangential mode) frames in 10 minutes. In tangential mode, it is near impossible to blow comb/foundation due to good support grillage of basket. This design allows for extraction of foundationless frames and wax foundation frames with little damage to comb/foundation.


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## Eikel (Mar 12, 2014)

I can't speak to the "other" extractors but I have no complaints with my 3100P and I only use mediums for supers. It wasn't cheap but it's built to last my lifetime plus.

Good luck on the 4-8 hives; 2-3 hives with a taste of honey was my original goal.


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## Jack Grimshaw (Feb 10, 2001)

A quality stainless extractor like a Maxant will hold hold its value and can easily be resold.
A cheapy ends up in the trash.
PS. Buy extra supers.When the honey comes ,you need to grab it!!


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## thechristalfamily (Jan 5, 2020)

How many should I have? I am in eastern Washington and my specific location has abundant nectar sources. I got 11 gallons from one hive last season that was started from a Nuc.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

I have 4 10 frame deeps per hive. This allows three supers on the hive above two deep broods. I pull the bottom honey super, drop the other two down one position and put the empty, extracted comb, super on the top on a 4-7 day schedule. I get a heavy flow during canola field bloom(about a three week window) and bees will fill a 10 frame deep(give or take 45 lbs of hone) in 4-7 days. Five deep supers is high enough for my back. 80 lb supers at chin high is too hard on the back.

If you want to go less frequently to pull supers and extract, figure out how fast honey is being collected by the bees and how many empty supers need to be on the hives. Otherwise your losing honey and setting conditions up for swarming.


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## thechristalfamily (Jan 5, 2020)

I will be keeping better records this coming season on how and when they are filling up the supers. Any other advice on the extractor question?


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## Jim_in_PA (May 17, 2016)

We have the manual Lyson 4 frame (we use mediums only) and it works fine for us, but I can see it "getting old fast" if we went above the approximately 6 colonies we currently try to maintain. I'm even toying with putting a motor on it.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

I concur. I've been around manual extracting, helping a friend with a two framer and it gets old fast. 

I believe three frames stays more balanced and less wobble of the extractor. The power is a pleasure to operate and one can get near all the honey removed.

A controller that automatically ramps up the speed, similar to the bigger extractor would also be nice to have.


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## Biermann (May 31, 2015)

@thechristalfamily - please add your location so we all can more easily make comments in the future on issues that are location specific.

Extractor, I don't know the Maxant, but everyone speaks good of it. I build my own and have found several issues helpful:

All swivel caster wheels took the imbalance of my unit,

The frequency drive on the motor (3ph) makes life much easier when extracting. It costs money, but it is so much easier on speed-up and speed-down, with possible settings for startup to go to higher speed after x time and the whole unit runs itself.

I believe one could stay with a smaller unit if it is setup properly not to be babysit all the time.

Amount of supers, same as mgolden says, four per hive, max. three on, one spare.

JoergK.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

Joerg, I saw a neat extractor design at a Hutterite Colony. They had built it themselves. Stainless steel.

The collection area below the frames in the extractor was a flat sloped floor, higher at the back. At the front was a small well and the valve was threaded into it. Heating elements was installed below the floor, so the sloped floor could be heated to ?105F.

I think it would function quite a bit better than a inverted cone bottom. I can never get the perimeter of the cone to fully drain and eventually get a build up of crystalized honey on the perimeter.


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## Biermann (May 31, 2015)

Hi Murray, Yes, they are handy fellows and seem to have an expert for every task.

My eight frame extractor slops to the 1" valve welded in to the corner where wall and bottom meet and I can raise it to nearly have all honey run out by gravity, expect for a spoon or two. I can lay a cheap room heater with ventilator under the extractor that blows heat against the bottom and it works like the one you describe without having to have a second floor with water for the heat elements. I use around 36-38°C.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

Sounds like you are way ahead of me and just as handy.

I don't think it was a water jacket below nut rather a method of heating the honey drain floor from below. It's been a while since the tour but I believe it was something around the 32 frame size.

This Colony was also manfacturing and painting the Rotoshear(I'm sure you know but for others-a hydraulic motor powered rotating knife for divider boards for swathing canola). They had a very impressive plasma cutter for 4 x 8 sheets of iron and paint booth.


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

Just to add my $.02. I have a Maxant 3100H that I converted to a P this last season. It is exactly what I need at this point with 20 or so hives. The inexpensive extractors are for the wannabees and one to two hive guys. If you are at around 10 hives total, buy the good stuff now because the inexpensive ones will end up being money down the drain once you figure things out. If you get out of bees later, this is the one piece of equipment that will hold it's value over time.


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## Robert Holcombe (Oct 10, 2019)

I bought a 20 frame extractor in my second year with 3 hives ( 2 died). I always buy good tools - sometimes over-done. What drove my decision was the diameter and time to extract "clean". The bigger the diameter, the greater the extraction force - farther from the center of rotation greater the extraction force. Honeycomb should not be close or overlap the axis of rotation. The larger the diameter more frames can be loaded as well as a tangential option using a basket. I can load deeps and mediums into mine but I am 95-100% mediums now. 

I thought it was a misuse of money, over-done, until I had to extract more than 800 b. this year - from 7 hives! Fortunately I had bought extra medium frames - there were no "extras" by mid-summer nor spare supers as I rotated frames from super to extractor . Mine is AC or DC powered, Dc motor (unique! In case I have to or want to run on a battery or in a field ). It has a timer - load up 20 frames and walk away and do something else. Also a good place to store frames until I can uncap - I often pulled capped honey frames to open up storage space during the flow. If I did not have this powered 20 framer I would not have an arm left - lost sleep. It is also nice to help out other people too. Bigger extractors or salad spinner as I like to call them, are more difficult to balance. The solution seems to mount the extractor on a dolly with swivel wheels. I will do more like add mass/weight and attach a couple of dampers. I once forgot to de-cap one frame, walked away, and the spinner "walked away" as other frames were spun dry! Honey on the floor! Bucket goes on the the dolly. 

One final reason - I really clean my frames and spin at maximum RPM for 20 mintues after ti think they are dry. As part of my hygienic efforts I never mover honey from one hive to another, not even a wet frame. I rinse them out. 

Best of luck in your choice.


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## thechristalfamily (Jan 5, 2020)

My 2 choices now are the Dadant ranger or Maxant. The Dadant is almost $180 cheaper than the Maxant after shipping


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

The $823 electric powered Dadant Ranger can only do 6 mediums or shallows radially. If you want to do deeps, you have to purchase an optional set of frame inserts for $92. It has a direct drive motor.

The Maxant does 6 med/ shallows radially and it can also do three deeps tangentially as is. Motor has a belt so if stuff "happens" and the basket locks up, the belt will slip and potentially save the motor. 

Did I mention I like my Maxant?


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## Jack Grimshaw (Feb 10, 2001)

If you are new,I wouldn't rush into an extractor purchase.Have you joined your local or state bee club?Almost all have loaners or rentals.
Have you been to any meetings where there are equipment vendors.Some vendors will have a show special or demo units and almost all will bring your order so you can save on shipping.
I have heard many stories of beginning beeks making early impulse buys only to find that either they lose interest or they find that their hive numbers go up and they wish they had a motor or had a larger extractor.
In the short term you can keep you eyes open and put the word out to local dealers and on social media for gently used equipment.
What you save on a used extractor can go for a nice stainless uncapping tank.With 8 hives and a good flow atable top unit will be too small.


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## thechristalfamily (Jan 5, 2020)

That is interesting about the Dadant extractor. I run 2 deep boxes for my brood nest and use mediums for honey supers. I am a member of my local beekeeping club and will ash them about extractor purchases that could save on shipping. I got 11 gallons of honey from one hive this first year and a single gallon from the second hive as it became honey bound. I split the honey bound hive and had 4 hives going into winter. I have no plan nor desire to ever have more than 8 hives since I have other hobbies that take a good amount of my time. I will also be lending the extractor to a friend who has 2 hives and two family members who have a hive each


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## Peaches (Jun 8, 2011)

mgolden;I think it would function quite a bit better than a inverted cone bottom. I can never get the perimeter of the cone to fully drain and eventually get a build up of crystalized honey on the perimeter.[/QUOTE said:


> I had a 20 frame extractor and I put a 2x4 under the back of the tub (under the feet if have a stand or under the tub on top of the stand. It drained the extra honey out after a while.
> 
> Just an idea you might want to think about.


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## mgolden (Oct 26, 2011)

I am doing the 2x4 under the back leg and also putting a trouble light inside the extractor with the lid closed so as to warm the honey. It is a bit of a pain to the remove the basket and wash out the drum but the only way to fully clean.

The sloped bottom with a well at the front and a heat source below looked like a better design than a conical bottom.


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## unstunghero (May 16, 2016)

mgolden said:


> Joerg, I saw a neat extractor design at a Hutterite Colony. They had built it themselves. Stainless steel.
> 
> The collection area below the frames in the extractor was a flat sloped floor, higher at the back. At the front was a small well and the valve was threaded into it. Heating elements was installed below the floor, so the sloped floor could be heated to ?105F.
> 
> I think it would function quite a bit better than a inverted cone bottom. I can never get the perimeter of the cone to fully drain and eventually get a build up of crystalized honey on the perimeter.


Set your extractor tank where bees can get to it and you won't have to worry about build up of honey, they are very good at cleaning up.


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## Peaches (Jun 8, 2011)

mgolden; said:


> I am doing the 2x4 under the back leg and also putting a trouble light inside the extractor with the lid closed so as to warm the honey. It is a bit of a pain to the remove the basket and wash out the drum but the only way to fully clean.


When cleaning extractor, use cold water. My extractor was fastened to the floor of the honey house. I used pvc pipes and connectors to run the drainage outside and used my strainer to catch the wax and let the water run on the grass. Use cold water with a hose and if you want, you can use a spray gun to blast the honey and wax out. After the tub and basket are cleaned then you can use hot water to kinda sanitize the inside of the extractor. 

This is just one way to clean the equipment. I supposed you realize that honey is water soluble and washes right on out. Being as you are using cold water, the wax will not melt and smear on the basket and inside of the tub.The wax that I save will go in with the other wax I am cleaning.

Hope this helps old and new beekeepers in how to. There are other ways, but this is my way. Enjoy God's miracle little insects.


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## Ravenseye (Apr 2, 2006)

I have the Maxant 3100P and love it. I've mounted it to a base with wheels so that it only rocks gently while extracting...even when poorly balanced with frames. I generally let the bees clean it out but I do take the basket out each winter for a good cleaning and lubricating the bottom where it spins. It's been a work horse for me and I highly, highly recommend the company and their products.


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## Amibusiness (Oct 3, 2016)

+1 on not jumping into the extractor right away. Make sure you are sticking with the sticky hobby, borrow the club extractor, then get a powered unit the size or a bit bigger than you need. You should easily be able to sell enough honey to justify the cost of expensive equipment. So don't skimp. My extractor paid for itself many times over the first year after I bought it. Its harder to expand when you are crushing and straining but it gives you time to learn the ropes and see how you like the need over a few years. For a hobby that's just fine, thanks.


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## Amibusiness (Oct 3, 2016)

Also you can try more traditional cut comb. A pen knife costs much less than extractor. And good cut comb honey commands a better price than liquid honey.


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## aphotographofme (May 8, 2019)

JWPalmer said:


> Just to add my $.02. I have a Maxant 3100H that I converted to a P this last season. It is exactly what I need at this point with 20 or so hives. The inexpensive extractors are for the wannabees and one to two hive guys. If you are at around 10 hives total, buy the good stuff now because the inexpensive ones will end up being money down the drain once you figure things out. If you get out of bees later, this is the one piece of equipment that will hold it's value over time.


Knowing what you know now, would you have just purchased the P to begin with?


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

Without a doubt. Extracting isn't rhe easiest job in the first place and having to crank an extractor for 2 hours or so is beyond fatiguing, even with family members helping. With a small 2 frame hand crank extractor, you would be looking at about the same amount of time to do just two or three supers, even if it is easier to turn.


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

thechristalfamily said:


> I am new to the hobby as of this spring. Like many of you here I have a love for bees and keeping them. I started with two hives and made splits to make 4 going into winter. I will most likely stay between 4-8 hives in total and I just got my brother-in-law and father-in-law into the hobby. They will each only have 1-2 hives. I am looking to buy a community extractor and am ok with the buy once cry once philosophy. I am thinking of the Maxant 3100p with the 9 frame basket. Is this the best choice or would it be better for me to go with a cheaper Vivo extractor since I do not have that many hives? One more note. I plan on only keeping 3 supers per hive, this means that I will have to harvest honey at least twice a year. Thanks in advance for your help.


Posted this over a year ago and have since used it another season. Very please with it. As a side note last year (June 2019) my friend and mentor, who has 80+ hives and a 40 frame extractor, well the motor on his extractor quit when we were about half done extracting his all his supers. We had to complete that weekend as he was going in for a knee replacement the next Tuesday. Of course took much longer but we got all the rest of his supers extracted using my extractor.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/VIVO-New-...004E/155944869


I ordered the Vivo extractor on Tuesday, May 30th via the Wal-Mart website, did that so I could add on their extended warranty, and received the extractor Friday, June 2nd. So customer service regarding shipping was outstanding. The extractor was double boxed, heavily packed and was in perfect condition – but that is how a new product should arrive so no extra points there. All accessories; legs, lids, instruction, screws, nuts and bolts were included, packaged and ready to use.

Completed installation of legs and cover was made in about 30 minutes and the only tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and a 5/8” wrench. Plugged the extractor in and it worked as it should, the motor is quite, smooth, and ran well at all speeds. Cleaned the machine and had 4 frames ready to try in the extractor which spun flawless. The barrel or drum is heavy, smooth, and should last for years.

The one Con I found was trying to attach the honey gate. I have small arms and was able to reach wayyyyyyy down with the “nut” while my Dad screwed in the gate. Not sure someone could hold the nut in place and reach down to screw in the gate at the same time. Also if your arms were very large you would have to remove the frame, motor, and cage in order to attach the honey gate to the drum. Other Pros and upgrades with the extractor are that the legs are longer and have been beefed-up and will allow a five gallon bucket to be placed under the honey gate. Also there have now been braces added to the inside of the drum so that the frames will not fall or slide once placed in the cage.

Since posting this I used the extractor last year to extract the honey from our 10 hives. Doing 8 frames at a time and just turn it on. By the time I uncap another 8 frames it is ready to reload and spin again. Very pleased with it. Sure it is not one of the "best" extractors but fits my needs.


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## patncin (Jun 10, 2016)

Just to let you know, I started with a 2 frame basket hand crank. I sold it, and got a belt drive, 12 frame Dadant. It took two days to extract last year, so now I have a 20 frame Dadant. So think about how many hives you will have in the future. It is a good investment. My honey sales paid for them, and by the way, the 12 framer is for sale on craigslist.


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## Mike B1 (May 8, 2013)

Is the Vivo extractor you are referring to a radial or axial type?


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## Groundhwg (Jan 28, 2016)

Mike B1 said:


> Is the Vivo extractor you are referring to a radial or axial type?


It is radial. Just have to spin the frames once and done. Sure it is not a Dadant or Mann Lake but it works great and cost so much less. Likely you do get what you pay for but this Vivo has been a real "work horse". Having 10 hives figured it would do all I needed for years. Then last year when the motor went out on Pate's 40 frame Dadant with 34 10 frame supers to go we ran it almost nonstop for two days - about 12 hours each day with no problems. Might have used up a lot of it's life but would do it again if I needed to.


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## Amibusiness (Oct 3, 2016)

I would caution against buying an extractor because of price. Do the research: find the best one that fits your future needs, is easiest to use, makes you happiest. You don't need an extractor the first few years so you have plenty of time to research and find the best (sale) price for that model. Packages in the north are going for $150. Hobbiests spend lots in their first year. Learn how to keep bees alive, learn how to never buy bees again, learn how much honey a colony in your location under your management can produce, decide how many colonies you want. Now buy an extractor if you still want one; and no need to skimp. By now, of cost is an issue, you could have sold a few pounds honey or bees each year to go into the extractor fund. Cut comb is great honey. Crush and strain works for a few hives and a few # of honey each year. (and there are often combs that are not perfect, so put them in honey supers and crush them later. You don't have to crush good comb). Neighbors and clubs have extractors as you grow. Then buy the perfect extractor for you. A side benefit of using neighbor's and club's extractors is you get to try out pros and cons of several models and find what you like best.
A final note, many people start bekeeping again each year because their bees don't survive. Such people often lose interest after losing money. Such people do not need an extractor.
Good luck! Happy winter dreams and happy beekeeping!


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