# Set up trap-out in large oak tree - Florida



## bchains (Mar 22, 2015)

Not to be a jerk but this thing looks like hell. Really - its a mess with the towels, expanding foam, steel wool, duct tape, box contraption, and everything else. Adding a super? Adding sugar water? Crazy and not necessary! 

What's it going to look like when the trapout is done? How much are you charging? 

I'd suggest doing some research on how to make a trapout look nice and clean without all this junk. This would likely inspire more confidence for the customer.

Plus it seems to be not working at all!

*For everyone else out there - this is a good example of how NOT to make a trapout.
*


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## Slow Drone (Apr 19, 2014)

bchains said:


> Not to be a jerk but this thing looks like hell. Really - its a mess with the towels, expanding foam, steel wool, duct tape, box contraption, and everything else. Adding a super? Adding sugar water? Crazy and not necessary!
> 
> What's it going to look like when the trapout is done? How much are you charging?
> 
> ...


Pat is darn successful with his trap outs. He has been doing it for quite some time. You are definitely out of line!


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

Bchains, 

Do you have some photos/videos to show us all how it's done? 

What glamorous materials do you use to seal in and around odd spaces that aren't flat?

I have a very open mind AND very happy customers. 

For your information, I'm charging $250 for this trap-out. That is a helluva 
lot cheaper than what I hear customers complaining they are being told
before they find me. 

Regarding the feeding, that would be for about a day. I would normally place a frame
from one of my other hives that has extensive supplies, but they can't afford it during
this dearth. 

Regarding the towels, that's what I had handy. And it's all going to work just fine. They are great for sealing odd areas. 

It may look like hell, but it's effective.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

. 

"People Who Say It Cannot Be Done Should Not Interrupt[SUB][/SUB] Those Who Are Doing It."


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

:lpf::lpf:. 

And how is it NOT working??? 

It's working perfectly. 

FYI, these take over a month to play out. This footage is from the first and second day. 



.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

Bchains,. 

You are probably a very experienced trap-out artist who has a lot of information to impart to others. 

And I'm seriously open to suggestions and welcome constructive criticism. I do not know it all and have flaws. 

However, you need serious lessons with how to properly communicate with others in a diplomatic fashion. 

.


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## RedBarn (May 31, 2017)

Bchains

will you please post some pictures of a number of your different trapouts ? Curious to see some.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

. 

Update video from today. 

The ugly and unprofessional trap-out is thriving.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

RedBarn said:


> Bchains
> 
> will you please post some pictures of a number of your different trapouts ? Curious to see some.



Thanks. :applause:


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

Slow Drone said:


> Pat is darn successful with his trap outs. He has been doing it for quite some time. You are definitely out of line!


Thanks.


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## Slow Drone (Apr 19, 2014)

The proof is in the pudding :applause: Thanks for posting the videos Pat I always enjoy them!


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## RedBarn (May 31, 2017)

Pat beek, thanks for sharing. I love seeing photos and learning. 

I'm still waiting for multiple posts from b chains


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## bchains (Mar 22, 2015)

I realized I shouldn't criticize without offering a solution. Ask and you shall receive. Since we're all in the same tribe, I offer to you all my trapout technique. It's very simple and elegant and best of all it works without having the tree look like a garbage dump. 

Steps:
1. Create a cone out of #8 hardware cloth by twisting and "sewing" it together with 2-3 small pieces of wire.
2. Make flaps in bottom of cone by cutting 1" slits at 4 positions (noon, 3, 6, 9 pm on a clock).
3. Cut a big piece of hardware cloth to the size of the tree entrance.
4. Cut hole in middle of the hardware cloth to inset the cone. Insert cone so the "teeth" of the hole grab it tightly and the flaps are flush against the surface. The cone shape will secure and tighten itself.
5. Tack this over the entrance with drywall nails. For barky/bumpy trees (esp Oaks) tap mesh with hammer to contour around the bark. If you need to nail in the gaps.
6. Trim the edges so it looks nice and customer is happy.
7. Hang bait hive near cone with multiple entrances to choose from, bait with LGO and a dark brood frame. No brood, no eggs, no feeding, nothing else needed. 

That's it people. Pics attached.

No issues with foragers feeding through the mesh, bees jamming up and dying, gaps, leaving a mess of foam or junk on the tree, or anything else. 

You are welcome.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

Bchains, 

Thanks for the steps listed, photos and suggestions. 

I will steal from you what I feel is important. 

How did you like my update video? 

The customers can't see it up close so they have to rely on my videos that they play on their big-screen TV. Both the husband and wife are thrilled with the footage.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

.

*I added another super because I think there are still a lot more bees that will emerge over the next several weeks. I would never try this if there were honey stores to speak of. I will be taking this hive down before the fall flow kicks in. The weight would be questionable.*


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Just a question, ........... rather than adding supers, and adding weight.......why not move the frames as the bottom chamber fills up, and move the bees to their permanent location. Then as it fills up again, start another hive or combine with the first bunch you moved??? A good tree can yield 3 to 7 colonies, if you want more colonies, if not, just combine each batch as you take them off. 

It was always easier for me to move and combine, rather than add chambers and have the extra weight.

cchoganjr


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

Cleo C. Hogan Jr said:


> Just a question, ........... rather than adding supers, and adding weight.......why not move the frames as the bottom chamber fills up, and move the bees to their permanent location. Then as it fills up again, start another hive or combine with the first bunch you moved??? A good tree can yield 3 to 7 colonies, if you want more colonies, if not, just combine each batch as you take them off.
> 
> It was always easier for me to move and combine, rather than add chambers and have the extra weight.
> 
> cchoganjr



That's a great question, and I've thought a lot about that. 

There's a saying: "beekeeping is local" 

If I were to strip away a good portion of their force, small hive beetles would easily move in and overtake the hive. Here in Florida, the hive beetles are a HUGE factor, especially during the hot and humid summer. 

But, like I said previously, there's not any honey stores in that hive. They still need to build-out most of the frames with comb, as I'm a huge advocate for natural, foundationless comb. So anyhow, the weight isn't really a factor at this point. 

In Indiana or Oregon, your suggestion, IMHO, would make perfect sense. However, breaking up momentum in Florida can have dire consequences. 

This is my opinion. Other opinions on this matter are welcome. 

Thanks, Cleo, for chiming in. 

Patrick


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

PatBeek... I just noticed, you are not too far from my Winter home in Florida, (Moore Haven, Glades County), but I have never kept bees In Florida. 

We did not have a problem with Small Hive Beetles in KY until around 2003, and I always moved frames as the trap hive filled with bees. Now, some locations around here, have a major threat on their hands. 

Two other considerations, ( not criticism, just how I did it, ). (1) I always liked to have the cone, (in an elimination trapout), end, inside the trap. That way all bees that exit the tree must go through the trap to get to the outside. I always thought it kept them more calm because they were not searching for a new home. It was right there. I cut a small hole, ( hole saw) and inserted the end of the cone inside the trap box. (2) If, for some reason I could not place the cone inside the trap box, I would wrap the cone with 3 mil plastic (secure with tape or tie strap), so bees returning to the trap would not orient on the open cone and try to get in through the pores of the screen. It eliminated a lot of bees swarming on the cone trying to get in.

Good luck to you.

cchoganjr


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)




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## Sour Kraut (Jun 17, 2012)

PatBeek said:


>


What's the deal with the tiny entrance to the hive ?

Why not a full size hive with an open entrance ?

Inquiring minds want to know !!!

Thanks

G


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

Gary L. Glaenzer said:


> What's the deal with the tiny entrance to the hive ?
> 
> Why not a full size hive with an open entrance ?
> 
> ...




I prefer them that way. Although the hives I build now also have the wheel but the bigger wheel and bigger hole. But the wheel makes it easy to seal up hives after a cut-out or trap-out or if robbing starts happening in my yard.


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

.

*TRAP-OUT UPDATE - 8-29-17:*


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

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*TRAP-OUT UPDATE - 8-29-17:*


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## JWPalmer (May 1, 2017)

Pat, awesome job. Thanks for the videos. A textbook example of how to do a trapout.


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## Fivej (Apr 4, 2016)

Thanks for posting the vids. Very interesting. J


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

.

Final update on this successful trap-out - 10-19-17

Today I went to take off the trap-out mechanism from a large oak tree. I also took down the shelving that held my hive for this very successful trap-out. But the view inside the tree-cavity which used to hold the honeybee colony is absolutely amazing and gorgeous.


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## Greeny (Jun 27, 2016)

Very interesting videos. Thanks for posting.
How do you seal up the tree now to keep future swarms out? Is that a trade secret?


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## PatBeek (Jan 13, 2012)

Greeny said:


> Very interesting videos. Thanks for posting.
> How do you seal up the tree now to keep future swarms out? Is that a trade secret?


Thanks so much for the kind words and taking the time to watch. 

So usually I will seal the entrance with steel wool, caulk, etc. 

However, in this case, the customer agreed to deal with it themselves. The reason being is because that tree will be coming down soon anyhow. 

To be honest, I've never had to seal a void that large or with that large of an opening. 

I would love to hear suggestions from others as to what they'd stuff in there. It would be exposed to weather, so perhaps insulation and some type of wooden cover to seal it? 

.


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