# pushing topbars together without crushing bees



## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

Do it really slowly. They will move if you smoke them and move it slowly. You can crush a few if necessary. Try not to a puff of smoke and they will move.


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## treeWinder (May 3, 2013)

Light smoke, or puff of air, or use a scissor like action to place your bars back. Most of the times I use the scissor action.


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## Duncan151 (Aug 3, 2013)

If you gently bump the bees with the bar, several times, most of them will get the hint. If not the smoker will help a bit. It also helps to keep your already inspected bars all together at the back of the hive and not spread out. When you go to close up the hive you can move the bars back into place 2, 3, or 4 at a time which will cut down on the number of times you need to convince bees to duck.


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## ruthiesbees (Aug 27, 2013)

A paint stick from Lowes can be extremely helpful, although it needs to be longer for my hive bars (20"). You can insert that parallel between the bars and start closing it up. It is just enough space that it won't crush the bees and they back away, and when you pull out the stick to close the bars completely, it's not quite enough space for them to peek through again. It still takes a bit of time, and days when you are in a hurry, it's frustrating. (you shouldn't work the bees if you are in that fast mode anyway). I also use a large duck/goose feather to push them back down once the bars are really close together.

Also they tend to come toward the light, so if as you are closing up the bars, you can lay a spare bar upside down on the crack so no light gets through, fewer bees will be in the opening, so it's that many fewer you need to move out of the way to close it up.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Get a piece of 1/8 inch dowel or close to that size. as you push the bars together and the gap is about one bee space wide. drop that dowel in the space. the bees cannot get into it then. push the bar snug against the rod then pull the rod from the space. the gap is now to small for bees to get into. Push bars together tightly.


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## JustinH (Nov 11, 2013)

I put one side of the bar in first and then slowly swing the other side flush. When the bees come up through the gap, I use a long knife to gently push them down. The knife is already there for cutting comb away from the side walls. But I really like Ruth's idea of using a feather.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

I glued a small scrap of wood to the quill end of a big feather using Titebond glue. The wood provides a handle and reduces the chance of the feather blowing away.


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## cnt (Jun 8, 2013)

wow. lots of things to try! now if it would stop raining.


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## Jon Wolff (Apr 28, 2013)

I'll have to try the feather idea, too. I squirt them with water, which makes them duck down. I also lay a piece of parchment cloth or wax paper across the gaps to keep the bees from coming out. When they're hot, it also settles them down because the opening is "closed". I have one hive where I have bee space gaps in the top bars. That one is very easy to close. I lay parchment paper over the top and the roof lays flat on top of that. The bees can't attach comb to the paper, so it also helps with crosscombing. I plan to eventually make all my top bars like that since it makes opening and closing a breeze.


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## ally (Jan 13, 2014)

I push the bars close together without crushing any bees, then lift one bar up over the adjacent bar and lower it with no space in between. The moving bar sweeps bees out of the gap into the hive and the stationary bar sweeps bees out of the hive. I do end up with a few bees on top of the bars, but I just brush them off before replacing the cover.


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## AugustC (Aug 7, 2013)

All of the ideas already provided. plus... Move the two ends together then begin to slide the others ends together slowly leaving a V gap, using a fine water mister above the bees (not directly on, and do not drench) often works well. You can also lift the bar you are moving a bar thickness above the bar you are moving it to and then slide the edges slowly down together thus clearing the bees into the hive as you go.


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## tessie88 (Apr 22, 2014)

I just ordered a spearmint oil to mix with water . Its also supposed to calm the bees. Most videos ive seen they just use a brush and it works good. I also like the paint stirrer idea. Thank you. Anyone used the spearment oil method?


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## sjj (Jan 2, 2007)

cnt said:


> Can anyone share advice on how to put a topbar hive backtogether after an inspection. /QUOTE]
> 
> I found this information helpful:
> “Top Bar Hive - How to Close Using a Steel Rod”
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVhgzzsnH8M


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## ally (Jan 13, 2014)

sjj said:


> “Top Bar Hive - How to Close Using a Steel Rod”
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVhgzzsnH8M


That's the best idea I've seen!


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## cnt (Jun 8, 2013)

sjj said:


> I found this information helpful:
> “Top Bar Hive - How to Close Using a Steel Rod”
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVhgzzsnH8M


Thats a pretty great trick!


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

In general (with a TBH or lang), the frames or bars should be kept together as much as possible...I generally remove one frame (in the least populous area of the hive or the one that makes the most sense for some other reason) to make room to move things, then all the rest are kept against one another....I remove a frame to inspect from one side of the gap, and replace it on the other side of the gap sliding it down into position to gently 'scrape' the bees off...this works both with top bars or lang frames (remember that the lang frames only contact each other at the top portion of the end bars).

When you are done, you can move the whole stack of frames or top bars as one unit with only one space to watch for bees being crushed.

Your inspection technique is like scales are to a musician...you've got to practice them until they are second nature so you can focus on what you are seeing in the hive.

deknow


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## deknow (Jul 17, 2006)

The problem I see with the technique in the video is the potential to trap bees feet and/or head between the bars. The space left by the rod isn't enough for the bees to crawl through, but you can see them probing into the gap.

deknow


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

> Anyone used the spearment oil method? 

I've tried everything I think... water, water with essential oil, light syrup, light syrup with essential oils, liquid smoke, nothing, smoke. Smoke is far more effective than anything else at calming bees. Nothing else comes close. Water distracts them a bit. Liquid smoke leaves everything smelling like smoke for weeks afterwards. Essential oils are a little more districting as is syrup a little more distracting, but I especially hate sticky bees (I've seen too many drowned in syrup). Smoke is also more effective at getting the bees to move down, but that's not generally my purpose with smoke...


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## tessie88 (Apr 22, 2014)

I was going to use the spearmint aka liquid smoke when I do the relaease towards the end of may . I thought it was more healthy for the bees . I am very new and trying to do the best thing for the bees . I guess I will use it since that's what I have . I do appreciate however your expertise in this matter . I have 4lbs if italian bees due on the 28th for my first release . Would you then suggest sugar water over the spearmint to calm them? I dont think they'll bee happy traveling in the mail ladys car and horse trailor from Georgia anyhow! I have a nice place for them set up lets hope that calms them also..


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Tessie, I suggest that you make arrangements to have the folks at the post office call you when your package bees show up at the Post Office facility. Then go pick them up yourself, and they may even allow you to pick them up earlier than 'window' hours. The PO folks will be happier to have them gone sooner, and your bees will likely have a shorter and more comfortable vehicle trip.

Also, you can read Michael Bush's package installation tips here:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beespackages.htm


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## fruitveggirl (Mar 8, 2013)

sjj said:


> cnt said:
> 
> 
> > Can anyone share advice on how to put a topbar hive backtogether after an inspection. /QUOTE]
> ...


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

> I thought it was more healthy for the bees . 

I think this came from "The Bee Movie"... if you are upsetting the bees with smoke, you are using too much or it's too hot.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beessmoke.htm

The most common smoking mistakes:

o People have the smoker too hot and burn the bees with the flame thrower they are wielding
o People use far too much smoke causing a general panic instead of simply interfering with the alarm pheromone. One puff in the door is enough. Another on the top if they look excited is ok and after that having it lit and setting nearby is usually sufficient.
o People don't light the smoker because they think smoke upsets the bees, probably because of one of the above reasons.
o People blow the smoke in and immediately open the hive. If you wait a minute the reaction will be completely different. If you’re doing something not too time consuming, like filling frame feeders or something, it’s a good plan to smoke the next hive before you open this one. That way the minute will be up when you open that one.
o People don’t smoke because they have the idea that it is either bad for the bees or somehow unnatural. Their exposure is only a puff or two once every week or two. People have been smoking bees for at least 8,000 years that we have documented for one very good reason. Nothing works better at calming them. 

Think about standing around a campfire. A little smoke is fine. But if you get caught in a lot of smoke it's miserable. You are trying to create that little bit of smoke that interferes with the alarm. Not having an alarm is much less upsetting to the bees than allowing it. On the other hand pouring the smoke in creates a lot of alarm of a different sort and confusion. Occasionally that confusion is to your advantage, but usually it's not.


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## tessie88 (Apr 22, 2014)

Thats a great idea Rader , thanks . I wasnt aware I could do that ...


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## thebalvenie (Feb 25, 2013)

to add what others have already said...

just work slowly and deliberately and bee patient when moving

i place the top bar in and place it down right next to the other ....it kind of pushes the bees down and there's no squishing or squeezing the bars ...as they're already in place...when they're in place then i'll give them a squeeze to make sure the propolis seal is tight....

unfortunately, i think squishing a bee is inevitable...no matter how careful...but it's always good to be mindful of the goal to do no harm to your hive


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## thebalvenie (Feb 25, 2013)

this is what i've done from the start....just from reading your site and various others

i use old pine cones or cherry tree twigs and get a good smoke going...it's hot at first...then i walk from the shed to the hive w/ a couple good hot hefty puffs and let it cool down...then do a puff at the entrance and keep the smoker going while i'm inspecting and i don't spray smoke in the hive or on the comb...but just above ...if i can do it right and there's a wind i'll place that smoker so the smoke is wafting over myself and the top of the hive....so far so good...i've not been stung on inspection since i first installed one year ago. now, i'm up to 4 hives!!!! 



Michael Bush said:


> > I thought it was more healthy for the bees .
> 
> I think this came from "The Bee Movie"... if you are upsetting the bees with smoke, you are using too much or it's too hot.
> 
> ...


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## kassnyc (May 11, 2014)

This is my friends' video. It's a great idea!


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## Needo (Sep 10, 2013)

That steel rod method looks awesome for finishing the last bar. I noticed that the bees were pretty set on being in the way while installing the package.


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## Riverderwent (May 23, 2013)

cnt said:


> HI all,
> Can anyone share advice on how to put a topbar hive backtogether after an inspection.


Eat a 22" popsicle and push the bees down with the narrow side of the popsicle stick or use smoke.


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