# Hello



## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Welcome to Beesource!

> I'm currently seeking advise as whether or not I need to re-queen now if not sooner.

What are the circumstances that prompt you to ask this question? How old is your current hive/queen, and is she marked, etc?


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## greg zechman (Nov 2, 2010)

welcome to beesource...greg


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## jlabaume (Jun 8, 2013)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> Welcome to Beesource!
> 
> > I'm currently seeking advise as whether or not I need to re-queen now if not sooner.
> 
> What are the circumstances that prompt you to ask this question? How old is your current hive/queen, and is she marked, etc?


I was tentative with the first query because I wasn't sure I was in the right place for the type of information I need. Here is the deal. 

First, let me describe the situation. 

I ordered two packages of bees from Bee Weaver that were delivered the week of May 5. They were both installed in their new home the morning of the day they arrived. They were both provided with 1:1 sugar water and a paddy of brood builder. I look at the hives every day and I have checked them once a week since they arrive. 

First, I'll describe the good one and what I observed each time I checked it. Here is what I have written in my log. "24 May 13: Doing much better than its mate (#2). Syrup consumption was much greater—the feeder was empty. Good activity in the hive. All but 1 frame was filled out. (Actually, I seem to recall that this hive started out with some drawn out comb but #2 did not?). No sign of brood but not to be expected. 31May13: Three frames of brood. All frames filled out to some extent. Some syrup consumption. Looked healthy--still better than its mate (#2). 7Jun13 Excellent condition. All frames are drawn and 5 have brood. Medium syrup consumption. I installed another medium super. ”

Now, here are my log entries for the weaker hive: "24 May 13: Only 3 or 4 frames were filled out (no sign of brood but still too early-should begin to hatch about June 5-7). They had been consuming syrup but still had about half of a top feeder left. 31 May 13: Lots of syrup consumption. Very little brood. Looked weak—much weaker than its mate (#4). 7 Jun 13: 4 1/2 frames were untouched-not even begun to be drawn out. Four frames had "some" brood. Looks like the feeder may be leaking which would account for the high rate of consumption last week. My wife noticed the leak after I had closed the hive. It was about to come a thunderstorm so I didn't want to open the hive again. The next morning (8Jun13) I checked and the leak had stopped. I opened the hive and a good deal of the syrup was gone but they had enough (in both compartments) to last them until next week. I need to NOT fill the feeder so full because the leak seems to be at the top. This is only the second year this top feeder has been used. Apparently there was some sort of flaw in the manufacturing. "

Incidentally, I have noticed that the bees in the stronger hive do not look like the bees in the weaker hive. They seem to be lighter in color with a "redish" tint--like what I would imagine Italian bees look like from descriptions I have read. 

But obviously my question(s) concern the weaker hive. 

What do you recommend? 
Should I re-queen the hive immediately, of not sooner or is it too late?
If so, should I purchase an Italian queen ? 
Any other suggestions? 

Thanks for the prompt reply.

jtl


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Note that I am a second year beekeeper, and there are likely plenty of differing opinions out there. 

I don't see a reason that you need to requeen at this point. Now that you have dealt with the leaking feeder, wait to see if the #2 hive improves on its own. If it does not, you could add a frame of eggs/larva from hive #1.


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## AmericasBeekeeper (Jan 24, 2010)

Welcome!


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## jlabaume (Jun 8, 2013)

Great! Thanks a bunch.


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## jlabaume (Jun 8, 2013)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> Note that I am a second year beekeeper, and there are likely plenty of differing opinions out there.
> 
> I don't see a reason that you need to requeen at this point. Now that you have dealt with the leaking feeder, wait to see if the #2 hive improves on its own. If it does not, you could add a frame of eggs/larva from hive #1.


I take it that all the hive #1 bees should be shaken off of the frame before transferring it into the weak colony? Just want to be sure...

Thanks again. 

jtl


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> bees should be shaken off of the frame before transferring it into the weak colony?

You can do that, but you can also move _nurse _bees along with the frame. Make sure the queen is not on the frame you move. Here's more on moving bees with the brood:
http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...-for-weak-one&highlight=move+frame+nurse+eggs


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## jlabaume (Jun 8, 2013)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> > bees should be shaken off of the frame before transferring it into the weak colony?
> 
> You can do that, but you can also move _nurse _bees along with the frame. Make sure the queen is not on the frame you move. Here's more on moving bees with the brood:
> http://www.beesource.com/forums/sho...-for-weak-one&highlight=move+frame+nurse+eggs


Ah yes, I'm not an experienced beekeeper but I do sense that moving the queen wouldn't be a good thing. lol Thanks again.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

One way to move nurse bees while making sure the queen stays behind is to shake all bees off the frame, put it back on the original hive, but _above _a queen excluder and wait an hour. Nurse bees will be back on the frame.


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## jlabaume (Jun 8, 2013)

Rader Sidetrack said:


> One way to move nurse bees while making sure the queen stays behind is to shake all bees off the frame, put it back on the original hive, but _above _a queen excluder and wait an hour. Nurse bees will be back on the frame.


You know, that just makes common sense but it is one of those things I would probably never have thought of on my own. Thanks.


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## jlabaume (Jun 8, 2013)

The plot thickens. 

Although I was about ready to give up, I finally got an answer from Bee Weaver (they must be grossly under-staffed). 

The lady that answered said: "I think since you have darker bees and little brood in the weaker hive you have old bees and very few if not any young bees. Requeen is the answer and I can send a queen Monday at a discount" and attached a code for the discount. 

OK, I read that to mean that they sent me a defective (too old to "cut the mustard") queen. So, I went to their web site, started the order, found that my "discount" was $20. But...with shipping I am still going to have to spend $57.46 to replace their defective queen. 

I'm thinking seriously about taking my business elsewhere. Anybody have any suggestions or recommendations?


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> Anybody have any suggestions or recommendations?

Check the _For Sale_ forum. One interesting offer of queens is this one:
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?284847-NWC-QUeens


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## Lazer128 (Dec 15, 2012)

Welcome to the site! I have worked in the gas fields south of Fort Stockton. It is such a desolate place. What do the bees work there?


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## jlabaume (Jun 8, 2013)

Lazer128 said:


> Welcome to the site! I have worked in the gas fields south of Fort Stockton. It is such a desolate place. What do the bees work there?


White brush and mesquite both make excellent honey as do some of the annual wild flowers. 

jtl


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## willie (Jan 1, 2013)

I like honeybee genetics out in CA webb address honeybeegenetics.com


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## jlabaume (Jun 8, 2013)

willie said:


> I like honeybee genetics out in CA webb address honeybeegenetics.com


OK, thanks. Right now I am on the road and the bitter half is trying to take care of it. It's likely you know what that means--there is no way to know what I will have when I get home. lol 

Anyway, thanks again.


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