# hiving package in long hive



## daknoodle (Dec 8, 2005)

I've built my long hive and am almost finished with the frames. I'll be hiving a 3# package in the middle of April.

I've seen a few examples where people have sectioned the long hive off for the introduction of the package and then gradually increase to the full length of the hive as the colony builds up.

Is there a problem with just giving them the whole thing, or should I create a movable division board where by I can gradually increase how much space they have access to?

Do note that I'm using starter strips, however my concern is not so much about how well they draw the comb. I can gradually manipulate things if they get off course. I guess the real question is if they will work the whole hive body and also be able to find the entrance (top entrance at the far end of the hive). And yes, I understand that they like to have the brood nest close to the entrance, but I'm going to be manipulating things to keep the brrod nest on the far end.


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## trapperbob (May 27, 2007)

You could use some kind of follower board. Some do some don't the most important thing is to watch the brood nest by making sure you place a empty frame next to the outside of the brood. This will keep them from swarming prematurely. They will only build out so far and begin to think they have enough then they will swarm. By placing empty frames next to the brood nest they think they have space to expand. You can even place empty frames in the brood nest but only if they have enough bees to keep the brood warm and there by work old comb to the outside. Then extract the honey out and change out the old wax. This will allow you to always have new wax they can lay in and keep the chemical build up to a minimum. As far as making them move to the far end I would let them put the brood nest where they want you may have a few problems if you don't.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

The follower is optional. They may build up quicker with it, but will do fine without it as well. I would direct release the queen so they don't start building comb on the queen cage instead of the starter strips. One bad comb leads to another, especially with foundationless or starter strips.


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## daknoodle (Dec 8, 2005)

So you think I could give them the entire hive to start?

Also, is direct release safe? Don't want to loose my first package.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>So you think I could give them the entire hive to start?

Yes, you can.

>Also, is direct release safe?

Anything can fail in different ways. You need to be careful the queen doesn't fly. That would be my biggest worry. Acceptance has not been a problem when doing direct release for me. The likelihood of crooked combs is higher than the likelihood of rejection.

>Don't want to loose my first package.  

Of course not.


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## daknoodle (Dec 8, 2005)

so just take out the cork on the other end of the candy and let her out, correct?


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## daknoodle (Dec 8, 2005)

Also, does wing clipping stop her from flying any?


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

>so just take out the cork on the other end of the candy and let her out, correct? 

I'd pull the staples loose while holding the screen on then peel it back while holding it down inside the hive facing the cluster of bees. But I suppose you could pull the cork, put your finger over the hole, set it on the bottom and close it up. Of course you shake the bees in first.

>Also, does wing clipping stop her from flying any? 

Of course. It won't stop her from trying, but you'll find her in the grass if you look hard enough.


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## trapperbob (May 27, 2007)

I like to spray a little sugar water with honey b healthy on the bees then put them in and then release the queen the way you want buy pulling the cork and and laying it in the bees . She walks out and into a bunch of very content bees cleaning the sugar mixture off of them. Has worked every time whether it be in langs or tbh's.


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## daknoodle (Dec 8, 2005)

is honey b healthy "kosher" with the concepts of "biological" beekeeping? As in is it considered a "medication" or a "chemical" treatment that can contaminate things? I'm seriously considering getting some, but still haven't heard very many definitive opinions about that aspect of it.


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## trapperbob (May 27, 2007)

Not real sure myself but the hives I have given it to seem to winter better. I have not heard much on if it fits with biologic beekeeping or not. I do not use mite treatments and try not to feed alot unless they appear to not have enough for winter. Some say that feeding is not a biologically sound practice. And I agree that they should always winter on there own food but if they are lacking some I top them off with a little sugar water and hbh. I winter in 2 deeps and a medium some say it's over kill but come spring they sure look good.I figure anything above that is mine. so when I pull the supers I keep a close eye on them and if it appears to me they didn't store enough on the fall flow or if the flow failed I feed but only enough to top them off which ussually means the medium did'nt appear to be as full as I think it should be. I never extract this super in the spring it goes on the bottom and they do with it what they wish I have not even treated for nosema and run my screened bottoms open all year long and it gets down in the zeros in winter here. I do however block the wind so it's not blowing straight up under the hive. They seem to do well.So if hbh is a chemical I should not use I'm afraid I may just have to keep doing it. Unless someone can show me it really does hurt my bee's then by all means I will stop using it. But as of now I beleive that it has some benifit because all of my strong hives have always turned out to be the ones that over wintered with hbh in the hives .


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## daknoodle (Dec 8, 2005)

Awesome, thanks for that review trapperbob!


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