# Stuff to build or make...



## peggjam (Mar 4, 2005)

Ross

What size holes did you drill for the cell block?


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I used the Jenter plug as a guide, just made it a press fit. I would size them based on whatever you use in your system. The board itself is a standard 2x4, meaning it is about 1.75"x3.5".


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## danno1800 (Mar 13, 2004)

*thanks, Ross!*

I appreciate having these. -Danno


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## Joel (Mar 3, 2005)

Thanks Ross, great stuff and perfect timing!

What does your bottled water guy think about all the yellow spots on the bottles when he picks them up?


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

That's a standard Walmart type pet waterer. I holds about 3 gallons. You have to let the syrup cool a bit before you fill it or the plastic sags. Don't ask me how I know this (DAMHIKT).


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## Dave W (Aug 3, 2002)

Thanx for sharing


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## Matt Guyrd (Nov 28, 2007)

Right on! Thanks Ross!

Matt


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Thought I would bump this back to the top for spring....Don't forget that Michael has a great box nailing jig on his website.


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

Thanks Ross.
I was particularly interested in your Queen cell incubator. A picture paints a thousand words, but could you elaborate a little? Are the shallow rips standard 1/8 blade kerf and how deep? Do the bees use these rips to feed the queen. Can an escaped queen fight through the kerf? 
I love the simplicity of this incubator


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Rips are 1/8 inch. You could also do it with a thin curf, 3/16 inch. It does allow the bees to see after the queen a bit. Bees can't get through 1/8. You'll need more like 1/5 if you want bees to get in with the queen. I don't necessarily bank queens in it, but if you can't be there when you need to move cells, it keeps the first queen from killing the others, and they will last a while in it. I've thought about modifying it a bit and ripping the sides off completely and screening it.


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

Ross said:


> Rips are 1/8 inch. You could also do it with a thin curf, 3/16 inch. It does allow the bees to see after the queen a bit. Bees can't get through 1/8. You'll need more like 1/5 if you want bees to get in with the queen. I don't necessarily bank queens in it, but if you can't be there when you need to move cells, it keeps the first queen from killing the others, and they will last a while in it. I've thought about modifying it a bit and ripping the sides off completely and screening it.


Ross,

When I saw your photo, I thought about removing the sides also, but that would only work if you continued to stagger the holes - which is fine. An alternative would be to use the router (your favorite tool) to cut stop dados over the sides of each hole and cover with wire. I like the basic design (each frame could hold three ? blocks similar to a cell cup bar) but am trying to figure out a way to get all the queens out rapidly for marking and such. Individual strips of wire on the side might work, but a good way to hinge them would help. I can envision laying the block on it's side, letting the queens crawl up towards the light and hinging the side covers to get to the queen. Just thinking out loud.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Getting them out can be a problem. It really is best used where you can't transfer cells to nucs before they hatch.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I thought I'd bring this post back into view since we seem to have a number of new members these days....


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## Texas Bee (Mar 21, 2008)

Ross I built 4 of those bottom boards from your pattern, so far.
That was a great idea, and it says alot of money too.


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## Show-me (Aug 3, 2007)

Ross,

I made and am using four and have four more in the works. Great plan for SBB's. Thanks!


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Bumping up for spring......


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## comb (Jan 12, 2006)

thanks ross


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## Texas Bee (Mar 21, 2008)

I went 1 step further, I made a pallet after your pattern.

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk23/mikemcvey/?action=view&current=0109091757.jpg

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk23/mikemcvey/?action=view&current=0109091757a.jpg


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## Hampton (Apr 24, 2007)

Ross,

Thanks for bringing this up again.


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## newbeemike (Jan 20, 2009)

I made a sled for doing high volume box joints. You can see it here and here.

I've been asked a couple of times for plans for this. Unfortunately, I tend to build things out of my head so I don't have any.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Interesting, but without the accuracy of your mill to do the layout, you'd never get it dialed in. The advantage of the loose pin board is you can tune the joint until it fits. After that, you leave it setup. Just hang it on a nail until you need it again.


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## Show-me (Aug 3, 2007)

Ross said:


> I'm bringing this one back to the top for the newbees.
> 
> Since spring is fast approaching and a lot of new beekeepers come here looking for help, I thought I would start a thread with ideas that work for me. They are free to anyone that wants to use them.
> 
> ...


You"re are a gem, I am making some of your bottom boards now. Thanks for the ideas and plans.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I didn't orginate all of them. The incubator bar came from a member here several years ago. I'm not sure if they are still around. Same with the frame assembly jig (everybody should build one). The box joint jig is pretty similar to dozens on the woodworking sites. The bottom board I worked out, and I'm still working on it trying to simplify.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Spring has sprung, time to get to work....


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## kopeck (May 26, 2007)

Ross said:


> Spring has sprung, time to get to work....


Just was downstairs working on a box joint jig. I can't finish is though has my new stack dado set didn't come with shims and I can't get it zeroed in to 3/4". Yeah, I'm being picky but I can't stand sloppy joints.

Who makes a dado set that doesn't cut 3/4" anyway?

Anyway, shims are on the way.

K


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## drobbins (Jun 1, 2005)

>>Who makes a dado set that doesn't cut 3/4" anyway?

umm?? China maybe

good luck on your boxes

Dave


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## dbest (Aug 9, 2005)

I use an egg incubator:

http://www.eggcartons.com/product-e...Hova_Bator_b_Circulated_Air_b_Incubator_2362N

You can take an old couch cushion: Cut the outer cover off, Saturate it in water, Freeze it, then drill holes while its frozen. 

It takes a few tweaks to get the temp right. I put a hygrometer in mine so I know what the humidity is.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Box joints don't have to be 3/4", they just have to be a match. You can make the any dimension you want, just cut the pin to match.


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## kopeck (May 26, 2007)

Ross said:


> Box joints don't have to be 3/4", they just have to be a match. You can make the any dimension you want, just cut the pin to match.


I know, last year I made a box with this dado set and was just adjusted for them being off a bit. I didn't like my jig last year so I made a sled this time and want to make it right. That and I need true 3/4" dados for non-beekeeping projects. 

China, probably. It's a Delta set, wasn't the most expensive by any means but cuts really nice.

K


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## fuzzybeekeeper (Nov 23, 2005)

Ross,

I set out to build a couple of screened bottom boards following your design yesterday afternoon. It took about two hours to finish two of them and I am NOT a carpenter. 

I got motivated and built 8 more in the next two hours.

While that may not be cost effective, by the time you figure in the shipping, I am VERY happy with what I did. 

Besides, I used exterior wood glue and 14 - 2 1/4 inch wood screws on each bottom board so I know that this is a lot better and sturdier than the ones you order from the supply houses. I know.....I tend to overdo. I also put 4 coats of oil-based paint on everything! I am building these for my grandchildren to use when they retire.

The only thing that I don't really like about the design is the way the wire has to be stapled to the side of the railing instead of straight down on the base.

You notice, however, that that didn't stop me from making 10 of them and probably more as soon as I get some time......whatever "time" is!

Thanks for sharing. I have been looking for a screened bottom board that has a slide-in bottom for when I need it.

Fuzzybeekeeper


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I have another simplier design I'm building and using now. I'll try to put together a quick page on it soon.


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## mgmoore7 (Jul 6, 2007)

Ross
I used your idea with 2x4s to make some screen bottom boards with a sticky board. It appeared to be going well until assembly. The boards just were not straight enough. I did 45 degree angles at the back corners and some were not even close. Then the board across the front caused spacing issues... 

So next time, I think I will joint and plane them to be straight and adjust the dimensions.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I never have to plane it, but I do select for reasonably straight sticks. I don't do 45s, those are for picture frames. That's why I use all straight cuts. The only critical dimension is the length of the front and back cross bars. Some warping over the 2 foot length shouldn't cause a problem as the sides are 3/4" on each side, allowing for an inch and a half of variance before it doesn't serve its purpose.


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## Docking (Mar 13, 2008)

I build my bottom boards somewhat like the one you show. Rather than cutting the grove for a sticky pad, I remove the rest of the 2x4 and put a solid board on the bottom. I then take a flat alum. pan (disposible) and glue it to a thin board ( I use a politician sign) cut to slide in the bottom board. I pour veg. oil in the pan and it works great for killing mites and SHB. Just make sure the hive is level.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Good idea. I have never actually used the groove at all. It just seemed like a good idea at the time.


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## Batman (Jun 7, 2009)

Just wanted to say thanks for the great post, I have been going back and forth between making my own stuff or buying it unassymbled and finishing it myself. I have enjoyed assymbling my frames so far and think that building everything from scratch might just add to the fun of this hobby. Little pride never hurt anyone right?


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

Batman said:


> I have enjoyed assymbling my frames so far and think that building everything from scratch might just add to the fun of this hobby. Little pride never hurt anyone right?


I am having alot of fun building top, bottom, supers and more hives from scratch. I bought a bunch of pre-cut supers 6 for 41 bucks. I can't make them that cheap but, it is more fun cutting them myself. Had to spend 100 on a set of dateo blades, plus nails for the nail gun clamps etc but, I will use them for something else someday.


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## mgmoore7 (Jul 6, 2007)

I too enjoy building from scratch but I only do tops, bottoms and nucs now. I can't get the wood cheap enough to make doing supers and deeps worth while especially since I recently found a close enough source to avoid shipping costs.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

My club has a source in Eastern WA that is about 6-7 bucks a super. I can make a super with wood from HD for 7-8 bucks. So it is not that much different but, it keeps me away from annoying the wifey for a bit. And the honey doo's.


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## pilothawk (Apr 16, 2009)

I have looked, but can't find any plans for a hive top feeder. Any suggestions?


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/feeder/

However I'll have to say I don't use them anymore. My preferred feeder is a 2 gallon plastic bucket from HD with a few 1/32 inch holes in the lid. Invert over a hole in the top.


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## beeman (May 27, 2009)

Texas Bee said:


> I went 1 step further, I made a pallet after your pattern.
> 
> http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk23/mikemcvey/?action=view&current=0109091757.jpg
> 
> http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk23/mikemcvey/?action=view&current=0109091757a.jpg


Are your screened pallets proving to be durable? I have wanted to try to build SBB pallets but am afraid that I will be sticking my forks through the screens no matter how careful I am.


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## Chick (May 21, 2009)

He has pictures, but no dimentions.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Pop to the top for the new year.


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## PeeVee (Dec 10, 2009)

Ross,
Thanks for bringing these plans to my attention.:applause: I looked at the date on the first page!
That is probably when I first bookmarked your site. I've found that to be most helpful in my shop. 
Got to go order more lumber from my local sawmill - I'm almost out of the seasoned stuff.

-Paul, waiting for warmer days in the shop


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