# Boiled linseed oil



## jgrosch (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm a new beekeeper and I'll be getting my first hive boxes soon. I have been researching the best way to preserve a hive body. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with painting the outside of the hive boxes with boiled linseed oil. Based on my years in art school I know that one has to be careful with which supplier one chooses. Some manufactures add petroleum based solvents and other additives.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

What needs to be preserved is the integrity of the corner joints. Since I'm not attempting to have a natural wood look I coat all exposed endgrain with Titebond III glue. I also run a bead of glue on the inside corners of all my assemblies. After that, the boxes get a coat of grey primer and then usually two coats of white. The grey is difficult to cover, that's why I use it.

If you want to have a natural look, I'd glue the joints together with West System epoxy and then decide how to achieve the finish you want. 

Sealed end grain and paint are easy ... boiled linseed oil is not a popular exterior wood preservative.

After sealing the exposed endgrain and painting, I would consider doing a little Faux Bois... if I was capable.


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## mrobinson (Jan 20, 2012)

_Shrug..._

Thompson's Water Seal. Applied only to the outside. (Although I'm beginning to wonder if it might not be an all-right idea to apply it to the bars of my hTBH, since the bars obviously expanded in response to ambient moisture.)

The bees didn't mind one bit. And, after all, it makes sense: they're entirely accustomed to taking up residence in walls! And of course in trees.

If you like color, a good friend of mine has made a bit of creative artwork out of every one of her hives.

You simply need to be sure that the box that you provide for them is weather resistant, appropriate to your particular area on this orbiting rock. (And, strictly speaking, _wood alone_ is that, at least for a few seasons ...)

Of course I have used boiled linseed oil on various occasions and in other contexts, and it works just fine (as it has for many centuries ...). But I don't think that you have to feel obligated to use it, or not. Really, what do you _prefer?_


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## woodguyrob (Jul 29, 2010)

Last year I did one of my 10 frame deeps w/boiled linseed oil...I don't like the results. It was the first box I put together and I may not have used enough glue / or linseed oil for that matter. The other boxes I put together are in perfect and weathering well. Next time-primer and paint.


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## Tohya (Apr 6, 2011)

If you use Boiled linseed oil, use a lot of it and let it soak in good. Don't let it dry between coats, just keep putting it on until it stops soaking in right away.


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

Good alkyd primer followed by good quality exterior paint. Linseed oil will die from UV in a year or so and simply vanish. Oil finish is fine inside, but provides next to no protection in exterior use. 

With proper primer and paint, your boxes will last decades.

Peter


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## jgrosch (Jul 3, 2012)

Yeah, I mentioned to my wife over dinner the whole linseed oil idea. She has picked out several colors that she would like to see the hive boxes. Making her happy is important, so much for the whole linseed oil idea. Thanks for everyones suggestions.


Josef


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## Kavius (May 23, 2012)

jgrosch said:


> Some manufactures add petroleum based solvents and other additives.


My understanding of modern boiled linseed oil is that the faster setting time is achieved through the addition of some very nasty chemicals. I needed to finish some wood work that I new would be chewed on by rabbits, so I used *Raw* Linseed oil. It does take longer to set, but does not have any chemicals added to it.

My rule is: if it is going near food, use Raw, else use Boiled; if in doubt use raw. My rule amounts to "use Raw" because I always have some left over from the last project.

Basically, "Raw Linseed" oil is what you buy at the health food store as a laxative (don't eat it, I'm sure the machinery is not kept up to food grade standards).



Tohya said:


> If you use Boiled linseed oil, use a lot of it and let it soak in good. Don't let it dry between coats, just keep putting it on until it stops soaking in right away.


And here is the problem with using Raw Linseed Oil. I used it on a Lagan Butcher block from Ikea 50 x 30 x 1 inches, It took 2 litres of linseed oil before I basically gave up. 4 months later, we were moving, I put a brochure on the island, and it soaked up linseed oil. I do not recommend using it on softwoods anymore (they just take too much oil). In the case of a beehive, I don't imagine the bees would much care if it was not completely set.


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## mrobinson (Jan 20, 2012)

We use linseed oil in certain historical restorations, and indeed it isn't really suited for outdoor use. Modern formulations do include a lot of chemicals in an attempt to stabilize the mixture. I don't know the effect that those chemicals may have or how they differ from other coatings. Nevertheless, "a good, water-resistant coating" is really what you need, as you would need for any sort of box that you plan to put in a sunny spot outdoors. Don't think it needs to be complicated.


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