# Queen Castle Bottom Boards



## Michael B (Feb 6, 2010)

I made up a couple deep boxes and divided them up into 4 chambers with 2 frames each. Each chamber will have its own 3/4 hole drilled in the side for their entrance. Can the bottom board be as simple as a plywood bottom or should there be more room under the frames?


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

With this answer, I'm assuming you made them from pre-made deeps.

There really should be more room under the frames, above too. In my design, I allowed for beespace under the frames and also at the top so I'd have less problems with things being glued together. 

You could leave it how it is and deal with that, or you could cut a 1/4"-3/8" shim to go around the bottom of the box, or you could incorporate it into the bottom somehow. The top shouldn't be too much problem depending on your inner cover. Some people use feed sacks and they get glued in but they don't stick.


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## Michael B (Feb 6, 2010)

I hear what you are saying. I think I will make up a bottom board enclosed on all sides with 3/8" bee space. I will cut the entrances in the bottom boards. The inner covers will be individual with the normal bee space above the frames.

Do you have screen bottoms?


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

I don't use screened bottoms in anything.

My first try looks similar to this but three frames per. http://www.beekeepingforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=5570#p44674 And instead of two screened holes, I have one larger one on the opposite end as the entrance.

I made ten of them. Here's the design I used: http://parkerfarms.blogspot.com/2011/12/mating-nucs.html however, I have extended the height to more like 7 inches in the design to account for beespace. I guess I need to update the design on the blog. Also, I actually made them in deep size, about ten inches tall to be cut down later when I shift to mediums. I need to work up a post with the results, but I haven't had time, plus they're not painted yet.


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## Michael B (Feb 6, 2010)

I do like your red ones in the thread. That is was I was shooting for. I like having holes in the boxes. The ventilation was an issue. I like the two holes with screening.

I will do something very similar. I have them all made except the bottom boards. I will use plywood with a 3/8th rim.

Thanks


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

The red ones are Rob's. 

If mine seem to need more ventilation, I'll add more holes later. It may be different depending on the temperatures in spring or whenever you're using them. We shall see.


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## BGhoney (Sep 26, 2007)

Don't forget to shim your base for your divider boards also


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Here is a short slideshow, showing some of my Queen castle, mating nuc designs. I think I am really going to like the fully screened bottom with the perforated masonite insert. Fully screened bottoms are good in some circumstances, but with the masonite you can restrict the amount of cold air. Add the foam board instead for insulation.

http://s425.photobucket.com/albums/...n=view&current=6faef8fd.pbw&ps=1&t=1329658323


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## fat/beeman (Aug 23, 2002)

Lauri
you sure got some good ideas. thanks for sharing.
Don


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Thanks,
It pains me to have to wait until spring to get to use them, LOL.


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## cedaroot (Aug 24, 2011)

Hey Lauri

I like that candy frame, gonna make some today!

Thnx
Jack


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

They should work great for feed. Here is a photo from last year. I use this design for wild comb too. Just used scrap cage wire from building rabbit cages. This was about 30 days after harvesting a wild hive.
You could even cut a chunk of comb filled with honey to insert into the feeding frame. Ah-natural!









Heres a photo of the feeding mini frame:


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