# Dado Blades



## bsharp (Feb 5, 2013)

I'm hoping to start making some of my own equipment this year, and I've been poking around the internet at the different dado blades available...and it's a little overwhelming. The general opinion of the blades available at my local Home Depot (Freud Diablo and Avanti Pro) is that they're crap. I'm not saying that I have to have the best, but I want to get some that are good enough so I only buy them once. 

Oshlun seems to be well-regarded (I have this set in mind), but at the end of the day I'm making beehives, not high-quality furniture. Maybe one of the cheapo sets would get the job done.

What do you use/recommend?

Thanks,
Brandon


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## Moots (Nov 26, 2012)

I'm limited myself...bought this set from Lowe's and have been very satisfied thus far...Again, building bee boxes and equipment is about the extent of my woodworking ability.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/circular-saw-blades/irwin-marples-woodworking-series-dado-blade

Not finding it on Lowe's website, but want to say it retails in the $150 range, although I see Amazon has them for $99....Good Luck!


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## KPeacock (Jan 29, 2013)

here is my take on them, we're making boxes for critters that regularly live in dead/hollow trees. the bees don't care. So it's really up to the beekeeper. I have three sets of stackable dado blades, from various manufactures like craftsman and dewalt...etc. They are not carbide tipped. All of these sets were purchased for less than $20 each at garage sales or online. I also have a wobble dado blade. None of my table saws have the arbor length to handle 3/4" stacks of blades, so i don't use them. I did make a couple of boxes with 1/2" joints and the cheap blades seemed to work just fine. Most folks are using 1xX" pine boards, so the wood is fairly soft.

If i were in your place, I'd buy a cheap set of blades, and use the rest of the money for otehr bee gear. in a few years if you think you need a better blade set, then you can get it, but i doubt you'll find the need for it.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

I would agree to a point. I'd encourage you NOT to consider steel blades. Stick with carbide. Pine will do a number on steel.


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## beesohappy (Jun 3, 2009)

I bought a stackable set from home depot. I think its a diablo or something like to that. I made around 30 nuc boxes so far and all seem well. I'm running it on a newer craftsman table saw and the arbor isn't quite long enough but I run 3/4" dado anyhow. I'm not saying its right but I made all my boxes with it and knock on wood its been alright. If I had it to do all over I would by a saw with a longer arbor and go with the same dado set.


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## beeman2009 (Aug 23, 2012)

A little off but close to topic. Just what would be a "minimum" length for the arbor to safely handle a full stack?


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

I have both Oshlund and Freud and they both do an excellent job, will last a long time before needing to be sharpened. I don't think you would be disappointed with either of them. 

These are around $100.00, but, with normal use they will last forever. 

cchoganjr


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

> Just what would be a "minimum" length for the arbor to safely handle a full stack?

If you want to use a dado stack that is 3/4", then you need 5/8" _additional _arbor beyond the end of the arbor nut when you have a normal 1/8" blade mounted.

.


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## beesohappy (Jun 3, 2009)

I just checked and I also have the Freud. As far as safe I would think anything over an 1". Keep in mind you have a large washer and a nut that needs to go on after your dado.


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## Ddawg (Feb 17, 2012)

Right now I'm on a budget and only looking to use dados for bee boxes. So when I saw the 25% off coupon for Harbor Freight in the paper, I went and bought the 42 teeth carbide set (normally $59). Haven't tried them out yet, but I'm confident they will do the job.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

I would guess that if you are just going to build bee supplies for yourself, you should be O.K.

cchoganjr


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## honeyman46408 (Feb 14, 2003)

I have a set from Harbor Freight (china) that I got for 20 bux on sale several years ago and I have made hundreds of boxes, innercovers, tops, bottom boards and still using them the second set I bought a few days later for back up is still hanging by the saw.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

honeyman46408 said:


> the second set I bought a few days later for back up is still hanging by the saw.


That is good to know. I have never purchased a dado set from Harbor Freight, but, I buy almost all my staples from them. Never had a problem. Their 5000 pack is about half the cost at Lowes and Home Depot.

cchoganjr


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## FlashGordon (Jul 15, 2013)

take a look at the screw advance box joint jig. It's faster!​


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## Michael B (Feb 6, 2010)

It really depends how fussy you are. I cannot stand dados that are not flat on the bottom. I too was on a budget when I purchased my first couple dado sets. The avanti from Home Depot is terrible. Poor quality dados. I went to sears and purchased a "quality" Craftsman set for over $100. Again it was terrible. Lots of burning, chip out, and lots of messing around to cut exact 3/4 inch dados with stupid cardboard shims.

I wanted to buy the best quality Freud dado set but they were will over $200. I searched eBay and found a high quality 6" dado that was $195 new and got it for $50. It is a awesome set. Easy to use. Perfectly flat dados. Exact widths with no fuss.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

FlashGordon;105 [CENTER said:


> take a look at the screw advance box joint jig. It's faster![/CENTER]


FlashGordon....Have you used one of those. Could you elaborate. I have always wondered if they are as good as they say they are.

cchoganjr


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## PAHunter62 (Jan 26, 2011)

bsharp -

I bought that exact set about 1.5 years ago and have made all my own equipment since. It has served me well so far. I like it for the money.

PAHunter62


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## NE Beekeeper (Dec 4, 2012)

I have used Freud and Diablo dado sets, along with some cheapies along the way. I currently run a Diablo stack with satisfactory results. As mentioned before a good carbide tooth will get you much further than straight steel. The best bet, whatever set you get, is to run it awhile and then have them sharpened together as a set. This is the only way that I know of to get a truly matched set of blades. They will perform so much better. When I was teaching such things, we never made an entire dado cut in one pass. Always make a initial cut to hog out the material and then a final pass (or two) to dimension. It will result in easier cut, less tear out, and a cleaner kerf.


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

Double post


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## Colino (May 28, 2013)

Michael B said:


> I cannot stand dados that are not flat on the bottom.


Then you would not be happy with a wobble blade, it leaves you with a cupped bottom on your dado. I have both a Task wobble blade and a Freud stacking dado set. I only use the wobble blade for cuts that don't need to be perfect like hive body handles, for the fine stuff I use my Freud set.


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## Joseph Clemens (Feb 12, 2005)

After I bought a table saw that had enough power and a long enough arbor to handle a 6" diameter x 3/4" wide, stacked dado set, I took a chance and bought a cheap carbide toothed set (not even brand named). I'm not sure, but I think it's from China. I've left it mounted on my "dado table saw", and use it for any dado cuts I make; mostly 3/8" deep dado's for joining the edges of super components, and the frame rest rabbet. I also use it to remove the waste on frame Top Bars, leaving the ears/lugs that support the frames in their hives, and I also use it to cut 3/8" deep x 7/8" wide grooves in the top edges of my homemade End Bars, just before making the final cuts that separate each individual End Bar, from their blanks. I use a sacrificial fence, adjust it so the 3/16" ears (providing a 3/8" bee space between frame Top Bars, once assembled) are left on the 1-1/4" wide, End Bars on the outside of the dado blades, feed the blanks about 1/2 way through, then reverse it, feed it all the way through, then reverse it again and the dado removes the remainder of the waste, this provides me with a nice, clean cut in the End Bar blanks, with almost no tear-out, and in just three passes per blank. Then they're ready for each individual End Bar to be cut off on the band saw. I keep all my tools, clean and lubricated between each use, and this $40 dado set is still serving very well, going on six years, now.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Colino said:


> Then you would not be happy with a wobble blade


I agree, for making box joints I would recommend a dado set, but, a wobble dado will work for the groove in the side rail of a bottom board, or for the rabbet around the rim of a telescoping cover. It is easier to set up and get started.

cchoganjr


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## bsharp (Feb 5, 2013)

Excellent information everyone. It sounds like the Diablo set from Home Depot would work for my needs, but considering the Oshlun from Amazon is roughly the same price I think I'll wait the day or two it would take to ship. The screw advance box joint jig looks super cool, but I think it's a little ambitious for me to try to build one of those at this point


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

I have heard it more than once that a woodworker will be best served in doing there best work on their jigs. Some find they enjoy making jigs more than they do the actual woodworking. I am that way at times. and the adjustable box joint jig is a great one to take on. make it a goal to achieve sort of thing. I tend to make dedicated non adjustable jigs but crossing that line to making a jig adjustable and precise. that can make a jig build feel as good as that first hive you made yourself.

For me making my own really shows a difference when I stand looking at my hives knowing my hands built what I see. My family helps me do it so it lends that quality on an even larger scale. those hives are ours. we have the scars and splinters to prove it. It increases the value to everyone which is irreplaceable. But more importantly it causes my children to take ownership in what we do. It is hard when I want out and purchased everything for them to feel like it is theirs. building the equipment helps make that transition.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Well stated Daniel Y. I feel the same way. 

So often, on this Forum, people say you can buy it cheaper than making it. Often, that is true, but there is just something about building it yourself.

cchoganjr


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## BudsBees (Mar 10, 2013)

It's worth all the work just to see my wife's smile when they turn out good.


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

I have a Forrest Dado King for fine woodwork and a cheaper set for (Oldham I think) for rougher work. Check Ebay and Craigslist.


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

You should have at least one thread visible beyond the nut with the widest stack of blades installed. More is better, but one full thread is the minimum. That tells you that you have the full thread of the nut engaged.

You will have to spend some money to get a flat bottomed dado, and likely still have to get the stinking things sharpened to get rid of the "glue space" everyone seem to want in the corner (really meaning that the outer blades are sharpened at an angle, usually with the heel somewhat higher than the chippers). Add on a worn arbor like mine and you NEVER get flat bottoms, but it's not all that big a deal if you use glue when assembling. 

You should also be aware that you will always get fairly rough cuts crossgrain in pine with these devices due to the variable density of the wood and the softness of the soft part. The bees won't mind, and hardwoods will cut very cleanly. Just the nature of the material. I'm finding that yellow pine for top bars works really well, nice crisp edges and clean cuts. Not worth much as end bars since they split when cross-nailed into the top bar.

You also need adequate power to cut well -- now that I've repaired the neutral wire running from the house to the garage and can pull some juice (only the steel strand of the ACSR wire was intact, no current flow!) my saw cuts much better. I'll find out tomorrow how well it cuts a 7/8" dado in end grain. So far it hogged out 3/8" by 1" deep cuts across a 2x10 with no fuss.

Peter


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## Denis Allan (May 13, 2012)

beeman2009 said:


> A little off but close to topic. Just what would be a "minimum" length for the arbor to safely handle a full stack?


If the directions are followed the nut has to fully engaged on the threads. If you can't get all the blades on, the arbor is to short. 

Denis Allan


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

bsharp said:


> Oshlun seems to be well-regarded (I have this set in mind), but at the end of the day I'm making beehives, not high-quality furniture. Maybe one of the cheapo sets would get the job done.


Brandon, I own that set, I am 100% happy with it. I had previously owned a cheapo set, it went to the thrift store. 

I have used this set to build a bunch of boxes and lids as well as telescoping covers and queen castles. If you plan on doing more than just a couple, I would recommend it.


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## minz (Jan 15, 2011)

Same here, oshlun dato set. I also do furniture but the steel set without the carbide teeth (Vermont American I think) was not long used. I would say that I was impressed with the chippers being full blades with carbide teeth. I did blow up a tooth on my set in the first six weeks and sent them an email. They sent me an entirely new chipper! I had the old one fixed and now I have an extra. I would not have done it different.


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## Rob73 (Apr 19, 2009)

I have a freud. I have an older saw dedicated to box joints. Checkout youtube for some great videos on how to make a sled for cutting box joints.

My setup works well. Before I started cutting box joints, I played around with several other joints. I had bad success with butt joints & rabbit Joints. Even with gorilla glue and pre drilled deck screws, the joint gives when you pry on one edge. 

You can use a jig saw and make one big box joint and it works well and is easy. I dont have any pics right now, but its like a box joint only there are one big box joint on one side, and one big mating edge on the other. You still have the wood on wood contact when wedging upward. Like I said, its kinda like having one big box joint on each edge. It works well and you only need a jig saw. 

I like the box joints though, they look more professional & they go together more square.


Rob


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## D Semple (Jun 18, 2010)

I have a full shop and save a lot of money making covers, bottom boards, feeders, misc. and even frames, but when I add up the time to make boxes I can buy them in bulk cheaper than I can make them. 

Forrest makes darn good saw blades.

Don


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## Solomon Parker (Dec 21, 2002)

I don't have a full shop, but I agree Don. If I need a bunch of boxes, it just makes no sense to spend days making them when I can order them in bulk. I guess I've passed the point in my life where I have more time than money.


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## Rob73 (Apr 19, 2009)

I agree with ya on the cost of the boxes. Personally, I wouldnt use enough of them to buy em in bulk. It's the shipping that seems to jack the price way up, in my opinion. The last time I purchased a box of woodenware, the shipping was almost as much as the carton of hive bodies.

Plus, I like building them over the winter. Gives me something to do in the shop when its too cold to get outside. Gets me outta the house & away from the ole lady!

Rob


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## Ross (Apr 30, 2003)

Yep, I can pickup at Dadant with a 50 mile trip. Saves shipping and taxes. I buy 50 at a time to get the price break, and just assemble as I need them.


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## Jeyster (Apr 26, 2013)

I just bought and 8"dia 3/4" stackable to find out by saw will only handle 6"dia 1/2".  

Anyone doing 3/4 cuts with an 1/2? Need an idea for a sled allow me to shift for the extra 1/4".


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## Jeyster (Apr 26, 2013)

....just answered my own question. Doesn't seem to be a big deal to go 1/2".


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## Rob73 (Apr 19, 2009)

Jeyster,
That old saw of mine has an arbor that is like an inch long or better. My whole dado stack fits on it. But, it was like a 1/2" or so in diameter which is an odd size. Just so happens that the hardware store sells arbor bushings for them. So, each dado blade has a 1/2 to 5/8 bushing in it. They fit nice & snug too, its kinda surprising. None of my newer saws have an arbor that long at all. I have an old skil brand stack dado & it goes as wide as 3/4 & it wont fit on any of the newer saws with the whole stack together.

You can make any width dado cut. Just the narrower you go, the more you have to cut. Thats the only problem i see. If you call that a problem......

Rob


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## Jeyster (Apr 26, 2013)

Rob73 said:


> Jeyster,
> That old saw of mine has an arbor that is like an inch long or better. My whole dado stack fits on it. But, it was like a 1/2" or so in diameter which is an odd size. Just so happens that the hardware store sells arbor bushings for them. So, each dado blade has a 1/2 to 5/8 bushing in it.


Rob, My problem isn't the diameter of the shaft, it's 5/8". The length won't accommodate the additional stack. Also, although it's a 10" saw, it's not rated for the 8" dado. It's says to use the 6" and up to 1/2" per width. It's a fold-up job-site saw, so I assume the HP is not sufficient to power a larger, wider dado. If the shaft were long enough I'd try it, as it might work with pine.


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## Rob73 (Apr 19, 2009)

The saw I cut box joints with is an old craftsman. Its belt driven with a 1/2 horse motor on it. With the whole stack on there it bogs down a bit going through a one by, but cuts it fine. 

I guess they assume putting a wide dado stack on there isnt a common thing to do, so they make the shafts to only accommodate a single blade. 

Even one of those adjustable wobble type blades wont fit on my newer saws. Its got a big wide mounting surface thats too wide. Its kinda a good thing too, because it makes a pretty crappy cut, compared to a stacked dado. They say it vibrates bad too, but I didnt have that problem. I guess with a little tweaking it may work just fine. 

I would say if a 1/2" is as wide as you can cut, itll work just fine. If you build one of those sleds for cutting box joints, they will be easy & fun to cut. You wont have to measure out anything. Just set it on the sled & push it through. It takes a little bit of work to build but they work great.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Maybe to save someone some headaches in attempting to figure it out. IF I want a box joint that has 1 inch notches and 1 inch fingers. and all I have is a 3/4 inch capacity on my saw. I can still make those joints. I just have to make to cuts per notch. I know I have been doing exactly that for the last couple of days.

The problem comes in figuring out how to build the jig to do it. A simple box joint jig is a broad that has an index block placed at the correct distance from the blade to leave the correct width of finger. what is being discussed here is a jig and blade that will cut the desired width of notch and finger in just one pass. And it is true it is simpler to just stick with that. the blade index block and space from the blade all remain the same. But to cut a notch that is different than the width of the blade complicates it. Those three dimensions must be different. and it is confusing to see how much different and in what direction. so here is my simple explanation that I am sure anyone can follow.

First figure the difference in the width of your blade and the width of your desired notch. In this case the blade is 3/4 inch and the notch is 1 inch. the difference is 1/4 inch. If I where to use a 1/2 wide blade the difference would be 1/2 inch.

The index block is made the same width as the blade always. the index block is serving as an accurate reproduction of the blade. The index block is placed the distance of the notch (1 inch) plus the difference (1/4 inch ) from the blade. This may seem wrong as you try to imagine it but it is not.

I will describe cutting the first notch when there is a finger ahead of it. You will place a shim next to the index block that is the same width as the difference (1/4 inc in my case) push the edge of the piece against this. the distance from the block and the blade has now been reduced to 1 inch just as we want it to be. make the first cut making sure that the piece remains tight against the index block. Then remove the shim and push the piece against the index black and make the second cut. you have now cut a notch that is 1 inch wide. and left a finer that is one inch wide. proceed to cut the rest of the notches in the typical manner just sliding the piece left and right so that each edge of each notch is tight against the index block. Relax as long as your index block remains in the previous notch cut you cannot mes this one up. Do not relax to much make sure you get the piece pushed tight to the left and make a cut then tight to the right and make a second cut. You can cut additional notches to narrow.
To start with the first notch at the edge of the board you need a shim that is 1 1/4 inches wide and do the same procedure. you will then need a shim that is 1 inch wide for the second cut you are then ready to start making additional notches. Tale care while cutting the right side of the second notch . there is no side to the first notch that will catch on the index block.

So although doable making a notch that is wider than the blade has some complications to it. Think twice cut once. And remember if you do cut it twice and it is still to short it is time to take a break. 

Hey it can happen. 

If it does and you still have the problem after the break. let me know I will send you my patented design for a board stretcher.


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## newbeeguy (Feb 20, 2014)

I use a router to cut my rabbets. It takes longer, but it gives a good clean rabbet. I think if you stack and clamp your frame sides, then you could use the dado there maybe to cut ten or so at a pass and that would be a good application for a dado blade?


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## bluegrass (Aug 30, 2006)

beeman2009 said:


> A little off but close to topic. Just what would be a "minimum" length for the arbor to safely handle a full stack?


The arbor is supposed to extend through the first washer, the stack, second washer, and about an 1/8th inch past the end of the nut. As an example; if you put a 3/4 stack on, plus the 1/4 for the 2 washers, plus 3/8th for the nut, plus 1/8th over and you need 1.5 inches total arbor length. 

As far a dados go I have several, V/A, diablo etc. The one I like the best is actually a Craftsman adjustable wobble dado, It cuts so much cleaner then a stack-able and does not kill the RPM on the saw like a stack does. Also because it is set at and angle you don't need an extra long arbor. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-carb...0903262000P?prdNo=24&blockNo=24&blockType=G24


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## newbeeguy (Feb 20, 2014)

I have a wobble blade and I use it for dados but not for rabbets, and it is satisfactory, but you have to bear down on the work piece a bit to keep it from floating on the blade. I suppose you need to do that with stacked blades too. I used to have stacked blades but the person who gave them to me took them back, died and someone else inherited them. say la vie.


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

You do not need the washers for a stack dado. those washers are for stabilizing a blade. particularly when using a thin kerf or hollow ground blade. In the case of a stack Dado the additional blades do the stabilizing. Also You are using a smaller blade diameter than the saw is designed for. a 6 or 8 inch blade on a 10 inch saw for example. You do need to take some care in depth of cut but for hive making nothing is needed that would push those limits.


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## bluegrass (Aug 30, 2006)

It is actually pretty dangerous to leave the arbor flange and washer off even when using a dado stack and you will find no dado blade or saw manufacturer who would say to do that. The washers spread the load out over a wide area of the blade so it doesn't shatter and lodge in your skull.


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