# Use of cotton cord.



## Juandefuca (Mar 16, 2000)

Hi Les
Indeed the bees will remove foreign particles frome the hive . That includes the cord itself when all the emulsion has been removed 
It has been pointed out before that it is advisable to REMOVE the cords prior to chewing them into shreds and tranporting them elsewhere . 
The so called "problem" for maintaining the emulsion/ cord method has to do with labor intensiveness for commercial applications . The community is working on that ,but still has to come to consensus . Meantime the cord method is the best we have and it is working. 
Some colonies have different attitudes and cleaning methods than others . It appears that we have to consider the differences and allow for them . 
Personally I am on top of shredding and have not encountered bees caught in the fabric. Neither have I found fabric on the screen . At least not more than any other debris . It has never interfered with ventilatiuon . 
It is true that in windy conditions the fog has the tendency to disperse more horizontally than vertical . I simply apply more until I see the fog exiting the top vent . 
I have not encountered adverse results on the bees with this approach . 
Varroa drop. I have said before the if one is under the impression that varroa will suddenly vanish into the happy hunting grounds , donkeys will fly before that happens . 
It depends on the duration and applied method to achieve positive results . And to my observation there is a definite reduction and control over mite population since I never spotted phoretic mites but still have drops in SOME ( 2 out of 15 ~ )colonies up to 50 daily. However this does apparently not affect the colonies since they continue to appear healthy ( No Vector ailments) and thriving .
Also,there will be always the dying of colonies because of many reasons but not entirely due to mites alone . Apart from gentic breeding , samll cell aproach and the survivors of the fittest I will continue to apply FGMO since it is the most acceptable for mite control for me . 
Happy beeing 
JDF


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## Dr. Pedro Rodriguez (Feb 5, 2002)

Hello folks.
I had announced that I would no longer post on this forum. I left without giving a reason because there were several. However my main reason for disssatisfaction is that participants seem to have more interest in "re-ïnventing the wheel" than in following my recommended procedures. 
I have insisted time and again that the beekeepers using the emulsion system must use at least two lengths of cord 40 inches long each. More than two pieces of cord is even more desirable. The reason for this is that the bees will tear up the cords if they are not given enough cord. 
Also I have stated that in the abscence of solid cotton cordage that the best cord to use is upholters welt cord. I have worked with the type of welt cord that Les describes for the last 8 years, precisely. I have had no trouble with it. 
I have said that it is best to remove the cords before the bees have a chance to tear them up or propolize them. If beekeepers do not use enough cordage or ir they leave the cords in too long, they are bound to see one of two things: the cords are threaded or proplozed, especialy if you do not use enough cordage or prepare the formula NOT in accordance with the standards that I have tested and proved satisfactory.
I have described many times the reasons why I went from using Crisco paties to the FGMO formula. I think that it should not be necessary to repeat them all over again. 
Some people have reported that mop head cords work well for them. I have stated that if these work for you, to use them. I have said that I have not worked with them, hence I do not have personal experience with them. 
I have never said that there was "a best time" when to fog. I have said that my criteria for fogging is when the bees are flying. Each individual has to choose when it is best for them and for their bees. 
I have zero mites in my hives. I have witnesses to prove it. I use nothing but FGMO fog and FGMO emulsion. Once a month applications. This is for three consecutive years. Nothing special! My thinking is that people who are not capable of duplicating my results must be doing something different than I am doing. And as I said above, I keep reading how FGMO users do not follow "standard" procedures, or to put it differently, they deviate from the procedures found to work best. 
Please review your operations before you blame FGMO.
Best regards.
Dr. Rodriguez


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## Russ (Sep 9, 2001)

Hi Dr. Rodrigeuz, Is there some way that we could post your previous post permanatly on this forum so new comers could refer to it easily? [spelling] Maybe something like "correct application of FGMO" Just a thought to help others do it right and take less of your time. Dale


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## Jorge (Sep 24, 2002)

Dr Rodriguez,

I take it that you are not leaving this forum after all, since your answer seems to prove that your passion for the bees and to transmit your method is more powerful than your annoyance at people who deviate from your prescription.

I must say though, that what you have suggested is no reason for others to tinker a little bit. I bet that (or something close to that) is how you came up with this method. Why can't we try something here and there and then find that it is better to go back to your precise method. Except for one or 2 people in this forum, I have not read of anybody blaming you or the method for failures. They (we), the beginners, just report on them and ask for guidance. If you don't want to repeat yourself, simply don't answer, or kindly point us to your original answer.

Thanks

jorge


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

He may correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think Dr Rodriguez is so frustrated by geniune experimentation as people who don't follow the program and then complain that it doesn't work.

Also, people are always suggesting things that would not be a significant improvement even if they DID work and they may NOT work.

All of this tends to detract from the success of a system he believes is already proven and makes it more difficult to convince people to use the system that is already worked out.


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## Les (Jan 15, 2003)

To all who posted to my inquiry: Thank you. Juandefuca:I was already aware that bees will remove foreign and hive produced debris from the hive, Donkeys will fly, spare me the sacrasm. Your rather lenghty discourse failed to point out that I had not used the proper lenght of cord , go stand in the corner. Could it be that using the info. contained in a post titled FGMO Summary, dated July 16,2002, top of page 5, which reads "For each brood chamber, insert two pieces of the emulsion soaked cords, each a half meter long (20 inches approx.)was the cause of my bees removing the cord so quickly . The above info. was repeated in a post titled FGMO outline dated 10 march, 2003, page one and two.
After Reading Dr. Rodriguez response to my post I did further research and found his correction to the above reference. Using 80 inches of cord on each brood box would of course make a difference in the lenght of time time required to remove the cord , about twice as long I would assume. I will apply the correct lenght of cord on my next visit and remove the Crisco patties.
Type of cord to be used: As stated I have used nothing but 100% 5/16 cotton cord from a mop head . In Dr. Rodriquez FGMO article published in the January 2003 ABJ, last paragraph page 41 contained a recommendation to use only cotton cord. The furniture upholstery welt I purchased contained a center of tightly rolled paper with a flimsy woven cotton overlay , not being of cotton I discarded it. In the same artice on page 40 you will see a photo of cotton cord well chewed, being pulled down between frames, please note what appears to be bees entagled in the cord , this is exactely what I experienced. Is this a bad thing, I really do not think so and perhaps my reference to a bee trap was a bit over the top.
When to Fog: In my cobbled together how to apply FGMO taken from too many sources to name.I quote from a post of July 16, 2002, titled FGMO summary, page 3 of 6 , 4th para. "It is suggested that fogging be carried out at the time when foragers are out because the bulk of the Varroa will be on the nurse bees, hence the nurse bees will be more exposed to the oil than when all bees are in". Simple, simple that is untill for some reason I deleted that advice and entered "Late in day when most bees are in the hive". While I have not yet found the source that prompted me to revise the when to, I can assure you that it was not done because I thought it needed be "tinkering with" nor was it an attempt on my part to re-invent the wheel. It could have and probely did result from attempting to put together in something of a logical sequence,all the various scraps of info. found on the FGMO board. I must confess I was absent the day the how to when to protocol was handed out.
I have no doubt that I will evntually make the transition from chemicals to FGMO or some similar program of mite control. I can assure you that whatever it is it will not be a result of advice received on this board. 
Dr. R I apologize for commiting such a transgression that you felt compelled to return to the board to correct me, however I do thank you for taking the time to do it. I can assure you that I have no interest in re-inventing the wheel and have always taken pride in my ability to follow even the most complex instructing. Again I thank you for what you have done and are attempting to do for the beekeepers of the world, there is nothing I would like more than to never again place a chemical in my hives. Your genorosity in allowing even novice beekeepers such as myself access to your ongoing research is to be commended. I thank you for sharing your bee work and for your service as a worrier for your country. 
Les in SC
Old Air Force


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## Juandefuca (Mar 16, 2000)

To all
When Donkeys will fly does not apply to a specific person but is a general statement born from EXPERINCE. Equally is the comment about debris It has nothing to with sarcasm but fact . 
Cord/emulsion application :
The cotton cord was found to be more accessible than other cord and that was the only reason why it was chosen by the interested parties aside from it's relatively low price 
No one tries to reinvent the wheel but suggest other approaches and there is nothing wrong with it and can be discussed to either disprove or approve any deviation .
Case in point : The reintroduction of Mites and therefore it becomes a perpetuating effort is without question a function of robbing , absconding , amalgamation from another colony , drone migration during time of bee activity and not from times of inactivity during the winter season in climates where there happend to be such season. 
I do not see the rationale of mite migration during adverse weather when bee activity is not present . 
Length of cord : I wonder whether the bees care about the length of a single strand or strands of cord . Their ambition is to clean something which does not belong there to THEIR notion. The length is purely immaterial to them but a means to prolong or shorten the cleaning process. the recommended length has its reasons and there is nothing wrong with it. The longer the cord the longer it takes to clean up and lenghten the interval of replacement . 
Observation : The saturated cord entices the bees to clean the emulsinon as well as shredding the cord and both is relative to the ease of removal . 
The application of beads of emulsion alone does not guarantie the removal of the emulsion . The bees suck the honey component from the emulsion and leave the rest ( The importent part ) untouched to a great extent . 
Whatever I report on this forum applies to what I see in my colonies and does not apply to other methods used or climatic environs . I simply try to state the facts as I see them knowing quite well that I am neither Pope nor Ayatola the umpteens . If the messenger inadvertendly steps on someones foot or is mistaken , I can only say : That's Life !
Happy cording and fuming 
JDF


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## The Honey House (May 10, 2000)

Hey guys!
Here's a real cool web site that contains
a ton of information on using FGMO.
http://www.beesource.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro 

The site is open for 
"*Share your thoughts, ideas and experiences about the use of Food Grade Mineral Oil in the fight against varroa mites. *"


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## BEEn Stung (May 17, 2003)

I think Russ has the right idea. 
I am a newcommer and have not been able to find the origional post. I also have been reading many versions and would like to get back to the basic post. 
Dr Rodriguez; Would you repost or tell me where the original is. 
Thank you.

I have my "found" fogger going now I have to find the correct oil.


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## Juandefuca (Mar 16, 2000)

I " are " about a month behind to read your very pertinent comment about this Site . I appreciated it that you pointed this out.
It takes guts to say it as it is ,although it may not be "politically correct". And one IS entitled to make mistake at least once a day . (Somebody told me that long time ago )
By the way , when trying to purchase "Weltcord" in uphostery establishments , I got questionable looks . That's why I wasted no time trying consulting a lawyer but went to costco to get cotton mops . And as far as the length of the individual cords are concerned I asked the bees and they told me it would make no difference whether I placed the cords of recommended length in one piece or a hundred of smaller shorter ones to make up the length of recommendation . The criteria as I see it is the consumption of emulsion of continuing duration and NOT stop because one "Feels " like it . The same applies to the fog .
Now , if I should have stepped on someone's foot again , that's just too bad but it also belongs to life . 
There are indeed individuals which take life really too serious . 
May Dr Pedro finally be recognised and awarded his proper place in anals of bee research 
Yours very truly
Helmut alias JDF


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