# Honey Gate?



## Brent Strange (Apr 1, 2011)

Hey ya'll,

I am first year beek and was given a 10 frame nuc this spring and they have built up fast and have some honey that I think is ready to go now. The girls are in one deep, three mediums, and a shallow and the shallow is about full of honey. So I need to make some room for them and would like to get some honey as well. The honey is capped.

My question . . . 

Is there an alternative to purchasing a honey gate from a bee supply company? I have to pay 10.95 shipping for one. Is a honey gate a valve that would go by another name at the hardware store?

Thanks!

Brent


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Brent Strange said:


> Is a honey gate a valve that would go by another name at the hardware store?


A _ball valve_ is often used as a substitute. This thread may be useful to you:
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?211578-diy-honey-gate-valves

If you want to see some ball valve choices, here's a link:
http://www.lowes.com/SearchCatalogD...Id=10151&N=0&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&rpp=24


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## Beeophyte (Oct 17, 2011)

I love this website.:thumbsup:


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## DeeAnna (Nov 5, 2010)

A honey gate is designed to cut off the honey flow right at the outside of a container. This minimizes the chance of drips. A typical ball valve has a nipple (a short section of pipe) on both ends of the valve body. The nipples allows piping to be installed on both ends of the valve. The nipple that is not connected to your container will retain honey that will continue to drip out after the valve is closed. If you don't mind drips, go for the ball valve. If you want as tidy a shut-off valve as possible, go for the honey gate. 

If you go with a ball valve, be sure to buy one with the correct fittings for installation on your container. If your container is a small-ish round tank or pail that you want to cut a round hole in the side for the valve to pass through, you will need a valve with "through the wall" fittings and gaskets. Don't install the valve too close to the bottom of the tank, or you may have trouble getting a good seal.

Avoid brass ball valves unless they are certified lead free. If you have a hardware store that caters to dairy farmers, look for the plastic food-grade valves used in dairies. If you go with a metal valve, wash the valve well before installation to remove any grease or oil used during manufacturing.

Speaking from experience as a former chemical process engineer.....


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## HTC (Mar 17, 2012)

Before you buy a valve make sure how you are going to mount the valve to the bucket. Postage might be cheaper then a hardware solution.


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## MrHappy (Feb 10, 2012)

What I did was used a threaded ball valve > 1" treading > rubber washer > through the wall > plastic washer > plastic washer(to not mess up the rubber) > plastic nut. I then cut off the front of the ball valve so it didn't drip much with a hacksaw. Make sure the ball valve is closed so you don't get far enough to mess up the fitting in the ball valve.

I've only tested it with water and it's held for a week without leaking.


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## Brent Strange (Apr 1, 2011)

Thanks Rader. I'll look those up and see if they work. I did find a honey gate on Ebay and shipping was only 5.00 instead of 10.00 so that might be the way I'll go.


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## Brent Strange (Apr 1, 2011)

Thanks DeeAnna! I have a Southern States near me and I'll ask them.


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## Flyer Jim (Apr 22, 2004)

ht tp://www.mannlakeltd.com/beekeeping-supplies/page102.html#!productInfo/10/

free shipping


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## HONEYDEW (Mar 9, 2007)

Flyer Jim said:


> free shipping


 you'd half to buy a lot of honey gates to qualify for that!!


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## Keith Jarrett (Dec 10, 2006)

That's why he is know as Free Peet around these parts.

Couldn't let that one get by Jimmy.


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