# Cowen Uncapper question



## whix (Feb 3, 2002)

I acquired an old cast aluminum Cowen uncapper with serrated knifes heated with hot water. 
How many drawn frames should I use in standard 10 frame Langstroth honey supers for the best results with this machine?


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

We used 9.

When you have problems with the slip clutch, I know how to build a better one. And a device to prevent the frames from not advancing enough and only falling down on one side.

Crazy Roland


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## honeyshack (Jan 6, 2008)

Agree with Crazy, nine frames.
Do tell Crazy on the up grades. I have the third cowen off the line and it has fun with the frames


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

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honeyshack said:


> Agree with Crazy, nine frames.
> Do tell Crazy on the up grades. I have the third cowen off the line and it has fun with the frames


We had one of the real early ones as well, I'm thinking around 1970 (possibly a year or 2 earlier), that sound about right? I was actually at the Cowen plant today, traded in our 7 year old uncapper for a new one, it was getting a bit finicky, seemed like lots of minor things and patience was wearing a little thin last year. I think it is essentially the same machine though lots of improvements from the early days. Oh yeah and we run 9 frames as well, we used to run 8 but 9 works much better, less burr comb. I know a few that run 10 but I have a feeling it's going to miss a bit more.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

We had the first one east of the Mississippi I believe. Was delivered in a Datsun pickup?

The replacement in 1980 was not as rigid as the early cast machine.

The frame dropping is solved with a "kicker". I will try to find it and take a picture. It involved a piece of rectangular stock and a ball bearing.

The one that got away was the slip clutch. You could set it to JUST push the frames to the end of the track, but would balk at breaking a frame. 

I never understood why they never improved them.

Crazy Roland


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

we had best luck using 8 frames in a super. the more you have the more scraping you have to do with a scratcher.


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

beeware10 said:


> we had best luck using 8 frames in a super. the more you have the more scraping you have to do with a scratcher.


True enough though the downside is it can be a bit more work breaking them apart so the auto load feature on the uncapper works smoothly.


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## beeware10 (Jul 25, 2010)

jim Im the auto load feature for my cowan. lol Its one of the early ones. maybe Im dating myself as we bought it brand new back in the 70's.


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

I hear ya, Beeware I spent a few years auto loading those suckers myself. We pulled the feed chains off one machine and just self loaded. 
Roland: I would be most interested in seeing the "kicker" you describe. That is a problem that persists. Lighter mediums occasionally will free fall through the blades and get out of square.


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## whix (Feb 3, 2002)

Roland said:


> When you have problems with the slip clutch, I know how to build a better one. And a device to prevent the frames from not advancing enough and only falling down on one side.


I haven't used it yet, other than running empty comb through, but if (when) I have problems I'll be back asking for help in the fall.

I think the machine has probably been updated because I got a box of old parts that don't match the ones on the machine.

It looks like, on the chain delivery of the frames, where the frames are pushed in, one at a time, to feed into the uncapper was updated and the channels the frames drop down the sides on before the blades are different from the spares. I have a bunch of round rods that were replaced with square rods (but not enough to run mediums) that fit between the chains and drive the frames through the cutters. Should I mix them or was that an update?

I am missing a few "nubs" that fit in the chains below the square rods that stop the frames from falling down on one side. Do they make parts still?

It came with a very small household water heater and pump, what temperature should the water be at?

I'll run 9 frames this year in the supers, the same as if I was using a knife.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

My cut cappings fall into a bucket that has to be hand carried to the spinner. Nine frame spacing reduces the amount of cappings needing hefting and work for the spinner. Bit eight frames get cut better, less scratching required.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

If my memory is correct, they are still using an off the shelf Browning clutch, or another name brand. It is a friction cluth, that qorks fine untill the honey gets in a changes the friction. I built one out of Fleet Farm parts, with a starburst pattern on the face , side view showed a zig-zag pattern where the two identical pieces mated. A spring (adjustable) forced the two pieces together,untill there was enough torque to force them apart. The design is in the Machinery Handbook. I will try to find it also......

Crazy Roland


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## honeyshack (Jan 6, 2008)

I asked hubby when Nate from Cowen said it was made. He thought in the '50s. The model number is 57-417


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## suttonbeeman (Aug 22, 2003)

Roland I can tell you were around Wally. A few years back he showed me the little wire he put on the Elgin piston fillers to prevent the drip. Worked off the cam and wire went across stream of honey each time cutting it off. Only wally could figure that out!!!

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Roland said:


> If my memory is correct, they are still using an off the shelf Browning clutch, or another name brand. It is a friction cluth, that qorks fine untill the honey gets in a changes the friction. I built one out of Fleet Farm parts, with a starburst pattern on the face , side view showed a zig-zag pattern where the two identical pieces mated. A spring (adjustable) forced the two pieces together,untill there was enough torque to force them apart. The design is in the Machinery Handbook. I will try to find it also......
> 
> Crazy Roland


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

I found the "kickers" , to help feed the frames properly. Give me a few days to draw them. Looked for a print for the slip clutch, did not find one. Grrrrr.....

Crazy Roland


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## Gabeeman95 (6 mo ago)

Roland you still on here ?


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Gabeeman95 said:


> Roland you still on here ?


@Roland is a fairly frequent Beesource poster. 

He last visited yesterday. 

I suggest that using the "tag" feature (see example in my first sentence) is a more effective way of alerting a specific member to your post in a given thread. The "system" will send the member an alert.

To create a "tag", start with an @, then continue with typing the first couple of letters of their member name. The "system" will provide a short list of qualifying member names for you to select from.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

I got the ears on. What's up?

Crazy Roland


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## whix (Feb 3, 2002)

Roland said:


> I got the ears on. What's up?
> 
> Crazy Roland


Since my post came back up...,
I would like to see your plans for the "kicker", I still get the odd ear broken off when it miss feeds the frame.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

Oh Boy. That was over 10 years ago. From memory, find two ball bearings, 5/16" ID x 7/8" OD or equivalent in metric. Mount them on a piece of steel that gets slotted??? for attachment to the bar with the two pins that come down and restrain the frames coming in. The idea is for the bar on the chain that pushes the frame to give the "Hold back" bar a little extra boost to release the next frame.

I sent the pair I made to a beekeeper in Canada, maybe Barre Ontario???? from Beesource. We might be able to figure out who from the old thread.

The other device was the improved slip clutch. It was much more accurate and repeatable.

Crazy Roland.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

OK, I'm a little slow with this heat. Do you have the "Nubs" or "bars" on the chain to feed the frames?

Crazy Roland


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## whix (Feb 3, 2002)

"I sent the pair I made to a beekeeper in Canada, maybe Barre Ontario????"

I reached out to Zhiv from Barrie asking for photos. Unfortunately he sold his uncapper in 2017.
My uncapper has pretty much eaten all the frames it didn't like so I'll just put up with it, thanks anyway.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

Whix - maybe we can still figure it out. Park your uncapper at the spot where the arm that holds back the frames is open the most. Envision a small piece of steel that holds a 7/8" OD ball bearing such that it opens the bar just a little more briefly.

Crazy Roland


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