# Basic Woodworking Equipment for Beekeepers



## Knisely (Oct 26, 2013)

I'm wondering what some of you folks would recommend for woodworking equipment for beekeepers who want to make some of their own equipment. It is clear to me from looking at Youtube videos on line that there are folks who have shops available to them that are way beyond what I can afford or fit into my basement (!), but as I think about what I want to do as a sideliner (a wanna bee), what are the pieces of equipment that would be needed to set up a production line to make a few dozen supers and a few hundred frames? I figure if the equipment can make these items, the fabrication of bottom boards, inner covers, and telescoping covers won't be impossible. I'm starting from scratch and need to start looking for stuff on Craig's List, and I don't want to spend money on something that won't meet my needs. If there are things that you'd like to point out as potential 'pitfalls', I would like to hear about those as well. I'd like to point out to everyone as I start this thread..."Note that the fingers never leave the hand."


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

I would purchase the best used table saw and table router you can afford. The frames might be a bit of a challenge for a beginner, but you would have no problem making all the other woodenware with a table saw and router. If you are ok going with Rabbet joints, you don't even need to worry about purchasing dado blades or box joint jigs. 

With those two pieces of equipment I make all my own boxes, screened bottom boards, tops, etc.. The savings is remarkable. If you are just getting started, I would recommend purchasing 1 of each item you plan to build as a template. 

Have fun!


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

A tablesaw is the the most critical [large] tool for making woodenware. Find room in your budget for a set of "stack" dados to go with the tablesaw.

When you are evaluating tablesaw options, try to find one that is capable of handling a 3/4" stack of dado blades. The key issue there is normally the length of the arbor - (the axle that the blade revolves on). 

Beyond a tablesaw, a miter saw is nice, but if space and $$$ don't allow, a handheld circular saw (sometimes called a Skillsaw) is a slower but workable alternative.


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

I have a table saw. Does a router offer some ease that a table saw doesn't? If so where does the router shine?


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## DPBsbees (Apr 14, 2011)

Adrian Quiney WI said:


> I have a table saw. Does a router offer some ease that a table saw doesn't? If so where does the router shine?


I can make every piece of my hives with just a table saw and a dado blade. I don't bother with frames since it's not worth my time to make them for what they cost. I do have two routers, but I've never used them for making beekeeping equipment.


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## Knisely (Oct 26, 2013)

What advantages does a bandsaw have over a table saw? Some of the threads I've browsed here have talked about bandsaws being a substantial improvement over tablesaws. I understand that a bandsaw makes less sawdust for every linear foot cut, but what kinds of tasks would a bandsaw excel at performing? Would it make make any particular steps in fabrication substantially easier to accomplish?


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## DPBsbees (Apr 14, 2011)

Knisely said:


> What advantages does a bandsaw have over a table saw? Some of the threads I've browsed here have talked about bandsaws being a substantial improvement over tablesaws. I understand that a bandsaw makes less sawdust for every linear foot cut, but what kinds of tasks would a bandsaw excel at performing? Would it make make any particular steps in fabrication substantially easier to accomplish?


I don't do it, but a band saw would be the best for ripping lumber to the thin thickness used for frames.


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

In my opinion, purchasing a bandsaw would be further down on the list. Certainly lower priority than a tablesaw, router table, mitersaw, and planer.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

I would recommend for a start a table saw, and make rabbet joints. Later a dado blade for box joints and the groove in the side rail of bottom boards, and the recess in tops.(Better yet, use migratory tops and you won't need the telescoping cover).. 

Then add a 12 inch or 12 1/2 inch planer so all your boards can be planed to a uniform thickness. I like the Delta 22-560, or the Delta 22-540 for about $125.00 on Craigs list. You can also find Dewalt, Porta Cable, and Ridgid for about the same price. New blades are cheap and will last a long time.

Pick up a circular saw (Skil Saw) for $15.00 for making commercial looking hand holds.

Later add a radial arm saw, again $125.00 to $150.00 on Craigslist.

This will be everything you need to make anything you want to make.

Just starting out making equipment, I too would buy frames rather than make them, until you have more equipment.

Check Craigs list and pawn shops. If a pawn shop has an item listed at $125.00 offer them $85.00. They likely have $40.00 in it. They will probably take your offer.

Enjoy.

cchoganjr


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## ABruce (Dec 27, 2013)

Hi, I have two table saws, a band saw, a planer and several routers. , while a band saw well setup is safer and just as accurate for ripping and , a table saw is easier to set, and way faster. Depending on local supply a planner might be a good cost effective tool, if rough lumber is available at a discount.in my area the small mills will finish to a high quality for virtually no extra cost. A router may be handy for dados and the handholds but I prefer to use the dado blade, faster cleaner (My tablesaws have good dust collection) and easier of the tools. Hogging out 3/4 handholds is hard on anything but a large router. 
I like my radial arm saw, but they are reputed to be the most dangerous tool in the home workshop, if your new to this I would leave it till I had had some experience with the other tools.
Best of luck
Bruce


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

ABruce said:


> Hogging out 3/4 handholds is hard on anything but a large router.


ABruce... I would very respectfully disagree with that statement. A circular saw, (sometimes called a Skil Saw) which you can pick up used for about $15.00 (or new for about $50.00) will do a fantastic job on making hand holds and will last forever. I paid $38.00 for mine (1998) and I make about 2000 hand holds each year, and I am still using the one I bought in 1998, and still using the same blade. Takes about 30 seconds per hand hold.

Instructions and u-Tube video on the system is available in beesource "Make it Yourself" library or e-mail me, [email protected] and I will e-mail you the instructions to make the jig. Takes about 20 minutes to make the jig, and the jig will cost you about .50 cents. Safe, Simple, Fast. With practice the hand holds will look very much like commercial bee box hand holds.

cchoganjr


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

Here is a link to the handhold jig plans and video Cleo refers to above:
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/handhold-jig/

There are also plans to virtually every other hive component in the _Build It Yourself _section:
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yourself/


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## Mike Gillmore (Feb 25, 2006)

Adrian Quiney WI said:


> I have a table saw. Does a router offer some ease that a table saw doesn't? If so where does the router shine?


I rough cut my rabbet joints on the table saw, and then finish them off on the table router. The shaft on my table saw is not long enough to use dado blades, so this combination works well to give me nice clean, square cuts. I picked up both the table saw and table router on Craig's List for about $200.00 total. Since I don't make frames that's all I need to build most hive woodenware.


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Mike, thanks. I think I get what you're saying - most of the rabbet is removed by the saw and then the router cuts the remainder with less of a strain than if you made it do the whole thing?


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## psfred (Jul 16, 2011)

One piece of equipment has not been mentioned yet -- you need a GOOD combination square. You will verly likely have to square up any used saws or jointers, and it's very important your slide is actually exactly square to the blade when cutting on a table saw. The markings on the saw and slide are pretty much useless.

A good tablesaw with a dado set will do everything for making boxes, bottom boards, and covers.

For frames, it gets a bit more complicated and I find that I use the planer, jointer, and band saw as much as I use the table saw. 

All of this stuff can be found fairly cheap on Craigs list, but you have to watch that you get operating equipment. Band saws in particular are likely to be badly buggered up, probably do to ignorance on the part of the original (or second or third) owner, they are never right out of the box and it's not that hard to really screw them up if you don't know what you are doing. I spent $65 on mine, a Buffalo from the 80's, and $100 later I finally have a working saw. Needs some more modifications and a couple more repairs, but it cuts straight at last and will now take a fence. Gotta save up for that, right now I'm still clamping a piece of hardwood on the table.

One of the 9" bandsaws will work just fine for a few hundred frames, no need to go wild and buy a 14" unless you have lots of room and money. It will still need proper setup though, so do some reading before you turn it on!

A 12" planer will do all you need, but unless you are making frames or milling rough cut lumber, you won't need it. Don't attempt to use warped or cupped boards for making bee boxes, you will be disappointed. 6" jointers show up on Craig's list once in a while for cheap, any any of them will do what you need for bee equipment. Be aware that they are like band saws though -- you have to know what you are doing with them, and used ones are often beaten half to death and are way out of alignment. 

A router table and inexpensive router will cut down end bars safely and is probably a better choice for limited space and money. 

I've been collecting woodworking equipment for 20 years, so the only tool I actually bought was a band saw, and I've been wanting one for years.

Once you get your table saw (look for a quality saw -- Delta is best), you will need to use your combination square to set the blade perfectly square to the table -- you'd be surprised at how far off they can be. You also will have to verify that the table is square to the blade, too, and the fence perfectly square to the table AND the blade. It's usually necessary to loosen the table or motor mount and move the arbor or table to get them right, especially on used equipment. If you don't have everything exactly square you will get boxes that are twisted and dragging the blade sideways a couple degrees is almost certain to burn the wood and throw pieces at you, very dangerous. Band saws are notorious for mis-alignments, you need to tinker quite a bit to get the table square to the blade both ways. This is absolutely critical if you are making frames, as they won't sit flat if you don't cut everything perfectly square. 

Good luck!

Peter


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

Bare minimum..... 1) contractor's grade table saw. 1) router table with router. 1) sliding miter saw. 1) compressor. 1) pneumatic stapler.

Most importantly......a good set of ear muffs.


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## ABruce (Dec 27, 2013)

Hi Cleo, 
I checked out your jig , a great idea, I think I will try it. I have a similar one for my table saw but yours looks quick and easy. My concern for new wood workers is that they don't get the quality tools. I have the same skill saw you do about the same vintage. But the local Walmart sells Black and decker and skillsaw brand today and they are half the weight . Routers are even worse today. My old craftsman 3/4 hp router draws 12 amps all the time. My new 3 hp draws 10. 
Again thank you for the plans for the jig, I appreciate them.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Mr.Beeman said:


> Bare minimum..... 1) contractor's grade table saw. 1) router table with router. 1) sliding miter saw. 1) compressor. 1) pneumatic stapler.


Mr Beeman.... I guess there is wide disparity between what woodworkers use to make thing. For instance, I have 3 routers and have never used a router in making anything having to do with bees. Others on here have talked about using a band saw. I have one of them also, but, have never used it for anything having to do with bee equipment. Staplers are also nice, (and I use them all the time now) but, starting out 25 years ago I used a hammer and nails.

Man...How times, and mandatory equipment, have changed.

cchoganjr


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

A router and router table used together will make the bee space on the lower part (end bars) of the frames. Once you get it all set up to include a stop, those end bars don't stand a chance. However, they must be routered after they are cut from the block and before they are assembled as frames so you can get both beespaces routered out.
It can also make frame rests and dado cuts in one pass. 

Times change Cleo, especially the time part. Seems like no one has enough of it.
Take care my friend.


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Mr Beeman. Frames are the only thing that I don't make a lot of. I make everything else, and have made frames, but, I normally just buy them. When I did make frames, I cut the beespace on the end bars while the 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 was still one piece and I used a jointer with a stop and the entire block ran in a grove until it hit the stop.

I make the frame rest on front and rear with the same dado that I use to make box joints.

Lots of different ways to do things.

Take care my friend. Have a GREAT day.

cchoganjr


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## Hoot Owl Lane Bees (Feb 24, 2012)

If I had to start over in my basement (if I had one) my #1 tool would be the Delta table saw with a good Dado blade. 
#2 Good skill saw 
#3 a good dust collector.
#4 great lighting. 
You can make just about all of the hive parts with these tools. I have all of the above tools mentioned and other than frames this should get you started. 
Take your time and think it over before you start cutting. I still have ALL of my fingers but I broke one 2 years ago the week before Christmas when a board kicked back on the table saw. I was building dressers out of oak and made about 50 cuts that day and was getting tired and got careless. Over 30 years of wood work and 1 mishap. PTL


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

I'm with you, Cleo. I have routers, but a table saw will do all the needed cuts best.


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## My-smokepole (Apr 14, 2008)

I am with Cleo and Beeman I don't use a router for anything. One blade that I have fallen in love with is a 7 1/2 fread blade on my table saw this one is very thin meaning I get more cuts out of a board. Plus they are cheap. 
David


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Table saw. from there start adding the accessories to it that make the job easier and more accurate. Some would say the first thing to make on any new saw. are the jigs you will use on that saw. Add a top quality blade, Dado blade. Make a better fence system since I am fairly secure in my assumption you will not be buying a $2000 plus table saw. Built yourself a panel fence since it is most likely you will start by making rabbet joints. good support for the rabbet cut helps and is cheap to make.

My rule from there is to try and improve on how I make my equipment each and every time a make something. I make a new jig or improve an existing one. add another piece of equipment if I can. etc. How big I make the improvements I try to keep consistent with how much equipment I am making. a couple of extra boxes. I make one or two free or nearly free improvements. big runs I buy new saws. Jointer. make entirely new jigs or do other upgrades to my machines. Most recently the materials for the equipment I am making will cost over $1000. before I am done I will have made about $200 in improvements or additions to my shop to make it. I still come out less money out of pocket than if I had bought the equipment.


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## TalonRedding (Jul 19, 2013)

Knisely,

Great thread! I made 25 hives in the last two weeks. Each hive consists of a cedar screened bottom board, a cypress deep, a cypress or cedar medium, inner cover, and telescopic top. I have about an hour and a half in each hive. Here is the cool part: I don't have a wood shop (yet). I did all my work outside with a cheap table saw, a skil saw, a hand router, and a miter saw. The table saw and router are the most important in my opinion. Making the jigs are a very important catch here, they are a life saver. You can buy frames from Kelley at .80/frame if you order in bulk of 100 (foundationless). I decided that making frames is not worth my time yet. I'm still working on a way to do them though. I guess my main point here is that you do not need a large and elaborate setup to do the work. Use your ingenuity and watch what happens. Good luck!


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## Cub (Feb 14, 2013)

I am with several of the other posters here who do not use a router. I have two, and literally never use them for beekeeping equipment.

Here is my list for making everything but frames:

1) Table saw with thin kerf blade and 3/4" Dado stack as mentioned above
2) Miter saw/radial arm saw (that can cut a board 9 5/8" boards if you are planning on building deeps)
3) Circular saw

The table saw rips boards down to the right width, makes box joints, rabbet joints, frame rest rabbets. The miter or radial arm saw is the best way to make good 90s for cutting lengths, and is exceptionally fast by setting up a jig to make multiple pieces the same length. The circular saw's best use in bee building is the CC Hogan hand holds. Once you make an angle jig, they look perfect.

Another thing that has helped me out is making at least half a dozen boxes at a time. I am a rookie in beekeeping, but not in carpentry. Setting up tools once and doing all of the cuts needed on all boxes is the way to go. Changing around everything to make 1 or 2 boxes like I did starting out is a waste of time. Building everything is a great way to save some cash, especially if you can find a source of scrap lumber. I rarely buy any, becausea all the pieces can be cutoffs from other jobs.


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## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

I ca't get along without my router! I have a Porter Cable router on a nice table set with an IncraJig.


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## jdmidwest (Jul 9, 2012)

One thing I have found useful is some box corner clamps to hold the boxes while nailing and glueing. A good carpenter square and tape are a must.


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## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

I'm resisting the progression to woodworking but will probably need to buy a table saw at some point.
Can someone make suggestions on particular used models and price points to look for?
I'd make lids, bottoms boards/pallets. I'd need to run a dado blade.
Any suggestions on a simple ready to go jig to cut deeps with finger joints?

Is this a good deal?
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/tls/4265771950.html


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## cristianNiculae (Jul 2, 2013)

The minimum for me was a simple hand saw. For more complex operations I attach it to a home made wood table and use a ruler that I fix with drills.








The result:








Now I bought a hand router - cheapest one - and it helps me a lot: frame rests, rabbeting, handles. I also use it in a fixed position.

The more you work the more you get better. It's not the tool that counts but the mind and the hand .

Regards,
Cristian


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

Mbeck said:


> Is this a good deal? http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/tls/4265771950.html


If that saw is as good as it looks, buy it. ( You could resale it for $100.00). If the shaft will accept a dado blade, keep it. It would be a good starter saw. You can move up later.

If you don't buy it, you can find a good used saw for $100.00 to $150.00. 

There are a few box joint jigs for sale on UTube, but I would suggest watching a few, Google "Box Joints" and download the instructions from cabinet making sites, then make your own.

Be very careful.

cchoganjr


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## Daniel Y (Sep 12, 2011)

Ditto what Cleo said on that Delta saw. Don't expect high precision from it but it will cut wood as long as it runs. you can improve a saw quite a bit by making your own jigs and a quality blade. At $45 I would buy it and I already own a table saw.


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

The stand alone is worth $45!


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## westernbeekeeper (May 2, 2012)

cristianNiculae said:


> Now I bought a hand router - cheapest one - and it helps me a lot: frame rests, rabbeting, handles. I also use it in a fixed position.
> 
> The more you work the more you get better. It's not the tool that counts but the mind and the hand .
> 
> ...


Nice work, Cris. Would you mind posting a photo of your handholds?


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## johng (Nov 24, 2009)

I have made about 300 boxes over the past couple years with nothing but, a dado blade and radial arm saw. I just use the rabbit joint because I'm not that good of a wood worker and they seem to be plenty strong enough. Some of my first boxes 5 years ago are still holding up just fine. I am a little scared of the dado blade when cutting out the frame rest. I have had it grab the board and shoot it across the garage. I have a great respect for it now. Getting a nice table saw is on my short list. But, since I already had the radial arm saw it has served me well so far.


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## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

Cleo C. Hogan Jr said:


> If that saw is as good as it looks, buy it. ( You could resale it for $100.00). If the shaft will accept a dado blade, keep it.
> cchoganjr


I bought it. It will accept up to 1/2 inch dado blades, which is fine for cutting the cleat on my lids.
Give me a couple months with it and you can come get it for $75.00


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## Cleo C. Hogan Jr (Feb 27, 2010)

I have 6 table saws, but, if you were closer it is certainly worth $75.00. 

If it were me, I would hold out for $100.00 to $115.00.

You could still make your box joints with the 1/2 inch dado, just take more cuts per box.

cchoganjr


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## Knisely (Oct 26, 2013)

Hey Mbeck, can you post the details (and a picture) of the table saw you scored? The picture was already taken down by the time that I got to the Craigslist listing. Up here, I'm seeing some nice (but expensive!) table saws that I'd probably need to get a rigger to help me with, and some little contractor models that could be set up on the tailgate of my pickup truck. I'm still trying to calibrate value, and don't want to jump too quickly. What'd you get, man?


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## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

Sure.














It's a Delta TS 36545.
10" and direct drive. I gave $ 45.00 for it and it was about 5 minutes away.
The fence has a crack in the "metal" near the clamp. I don't think the fence was ever capable of really locking down tight. The blade it came with is a carbine thin kerf and seems to have lots of life.
I still need to figure how to check and adjust alignment but it seems close as it is.
A dado set will cost more than the saw!


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## Knisely (Oct 26, 2013)

Mbeck: Finding that saw at that price only 5 minutes away is like walking out the back door and finding a 3 pound swarm.


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## Mbeck (Apr 27, 2011)

How about 15-20 minutes away?

http://newhaven.craigslist.org/tls/4189556704.html

I can teach you how to get your hives to throw 3# swarms you'll have to ask someone else if the saw in link is a good deal!


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## bowhuntaz (Dec 30, 2013)

When it comes to getting the best bang for your buck in woodworking tools, the radial arm saw is by far the best. 
It can cross cut, rip, miter, and rabbet.
It's also the most dangerous tool I've ever worked with. 
It's what I started my custom woodworking shop with many years ago, and I still have all my digits intact. 
A dado is nice, but not totally necessary. It's a time consuming process, but you can make multiple passes with a standard blade to get the same result. It just takes a while. 
A good router (I like Porter Cable - they sell a set with both a fixed base and plunge base) with good quality cutters (Amana and CMT are my favorites for both longevity and durability)
A pancake compressor, and brad nailer are wise investments too. Some brad nailers are dual purpose - brads and staples - another very nice convenience to have that versatility. 
Bar clamps are another glorious addition to the shop, as are squeeze clamps - you can use them with one hand while the other hand is attempting to hold parts in position. 
A couple things I've learned in my years of woodworking - use things that are "known" to be square - plywood, MDF, and OSB are all pretty much guaranteed square from the factory. I make fixtures and jigs from MDF. It's stable, dense, and waxable - meaning that you can wax it to prevent it from getting glued to your workpiece. 
Make jigs to get dead consistent parts. Stop blocks, angle jigs, square jigs, and the like are huge time savers and headache reducers. To make 1 or 100 identical pieces, the effective use of jigs and fixtures for cutting stock, assembling parts, and setting up machines will make your life a thousand fold easier. (Think about making a dozen identical chairs...) 
Cut and mill all your lumber for the same part at the same time to get identical parts. This way, you avoid the inherent micro-variations that come from having to re-set up your machines to cut the same part again. 
Make templates. Templates, be they paper, cardboard, poster board, or whatever, enhance your consistency between parts and assemblies. 

In woodworking, I've learned that Fast, Cheap, Good are not necessarily useable together. You can, however, pick two in any combination, but generally not all three. 

Lastly, glue is essential, though I'm not too sure as to how it would impact the bees. My personal preference is Titebond 2. It's weather resistant, though it's billed as waterproof. I've played with polyurethane glue (gorilla glue), but wasn't real impressed personally. It was a stinker to clean up and get clean results with, as well as good adhesion. Then again, it needs moisture to cure, and the relative humidity where I live is in the single digits most of the year. 

Woodworking in general isn't an exact science. There's lots of different ways to accomplish the same results using different tools and methods. Use what works best for you, and go with the best that you've got in your own shop. 
Just keep safety in mind above and beyond everything else. Machines don't think, and don't care about what they're doing. They'll cut a piece of wood just as fast as your flesh. Use push sticks or blocks to keep your hands and fingers out of harm's way. 
Use safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes. Use earplugs or muffs to protect your ears. 
A minute to gear up for safety is a very wise investment of time. 
It could be the wisest investment you can make in the woodshop. 

Have a great day! 
Dave


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## Bob_in_Westsylvania (May 5, 2013)

Mbeck:

I have this saw and am not pleased with it. My old Craftsman died a couple of weeks ago and was replaced with this model Ryobi. Home Depot was clearing out a demo model for $55.

First disappointment was it will not take a dado blade, the shaft is too short. This is a direct drive machine.
Second the aluminum table is no match for my old cast iron Craftsman.
Finally the miter gauge is not standard. It is only 5/8”. You can not upgrade it a better quality one. 
I don't make much so I will suffer through. This saw was a gift. I would not have purchased it. I may still get a new motor for the old (really old) Craftsman.


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

BowhuntAZ, appreciate the tips. Titebond 11 is fine with bee equipment. I have been using it since I started with no problems.


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## bowhuntaz (Dec 30, 2013)

That's good to know Adrian! 
Bob, sorry to hear about your table saw.
Ryobi doesn't make a table saw that's worth much more than scrap value in my opinion. They're toys to play with until you can get something that actually works.
Delta makes a great saw, DeWalt makes a decent contractor saw, and older Craftsman are really good too.
My table saw test is standing a nickel on the table, then turning the saw on to determine how well tuned it is. Doesn't work with any contractor saw I've ever owned, but my Unisaw did it every time.
I miss that saw....


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## cristianNiculae (Jul 2, 2013)

Hi and Happy New Year,

I'm very eager to get things going with my apiary. The target for this year is 20 nucleus colonies. I don't care much about making perfect hives and my tools are a circular hand saw and a hand router wich I use as fixed. I also finally made a prototype of hive wich I can use for both type of frames - dadant deep and langstroth. I will use it for buying 5 families of bees from someone that use dadant deeps in Spring and afterwards I can use the extra space bellow to feed the bees.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dhrrjvuyfr9gf6h/2NnD6qUTBT

Regards,
Cristian


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## Adrian Quiney WI (Sep 14, 2007)

Cristian, that is a clever compromise.


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## Josh Rollins (Jan 2, 2014)

Table saw is all you need. However I make mine with through box joints which requires a router and jig. I use the 4212 Porter-Cable 12'' Dovetail Jig that I bought from Rockler.com for $190. All together I paid $500 for my equipment if that. Craftsman bench top table saw, Hitachi router and jig. Its been well worth the cost.


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