# Syrup pump



## Bob Nelson (Feb 10, 2005)

The unit you refer to is for pressure and will not work well with thick or cold syrup. If you are going to spend $100 it may end up being a waste and just as well spend the extra for this centrifugal unit used by many:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricu...-pacer-reg-self-priming-transfer-pump-2135958

A gravity fuel tank hose with nozzle works well like:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/vehicl...ories/3-4-manual-unleaded-fuel-nozzle-3958171

This one:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/vehicl...dling/gas-cans/15-gallon-fuel-station-3950115

is interesting on a small scale. Some use air pressure in the tank to make the syrup flow. Do not know if this would work with this unit or not but an interesting thought when I saw it. 

Seems I have heard of something for the fermentation problem but do not recall what is was. May need to mix and use right away. If fermenting in feeders try less at a time until they are accustomed to it. After 1 or 2 feedings they will line up on the feeder like livestock at the feed bunk.


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## BEES4U (Oct 10, 2007)

FYI:
You might want to look at a presure demand pump like the ones that are used in RV's.
I had one many years ago and it worlked fine
I wired it into my PU trucks electrical system.
It pumps when you open the valve and then shuts down.
Ernie


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

I am looking for something cheap. Under $75. Any recommendations?

Kingfisher


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## WATCHONYX (Mar 29, 2010)

I currently use a similar model. I use the high flow model with demand pressure. it was originally part of a boom sprayer system. I have used it over a year now for syrup, and have no problem. The only thing Ihad to do was remove the spray tip from the wand.

I took it a step further and adapter the clips on the pump to a plug tha fits my trailer plug, when Im ready to use it, I plug it in and fill away.


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> Also, what can i put in syrup to make it not ferment as quickly? Kingfisher


Bleach, Apple Cider Vinegar, HBH. 

Flyman in Terrell knows a lot about pumps.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

WATCHONYX said:


> I took it a step further and adapter the clips on the pump to a plug tha fits my trailer plug, when Im ready to use it, I plug it in and fill away.


Could you explain how to do this? I am very interested. Is there any reason why I couldnt hook it up to my lawn mower battery and just pull the sprayer behind my mower on a cart? 

Kingfisher


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

I forgot to add that I am only feeding 5-10 gallons of feed a week right now, so I do not need anything special.

Kingfisher


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## Mathispollenators (Jun 9, 2008)

This is one I have it's cheap I works great for us. I added a hose to it so I could fill the bottles we have easier. I can say it you fill lots of bottles the arms will get tired but for a few and a 55 gallon barrel of syrup it's works for us. http://www.harborfreight.com/barrel-pump-45743.html


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Does anyone else have any ideas? I was planing to get something later today. I just do not want to waist my money on something that will not work. 

Kingfisher


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## BEES4U (Oct 10, 2007)

:thumbsup:Re-read post #8
Do not go cheap.

Ernie


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## Keith Jarrett (Dec 10, 2006)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> I forgot to add that I am only feeding 5-10 gallons of feed a week
> Kingfisher


Well if that's the case have your wife buy you a box of wheaties.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

I was out feeding yesterday. It was 90 outside. The humidity was horrible and I was soaked in sweat after 20 minutes out there. This is what prompted me to make this decision. $60 means a lot less to me than cooking out there and carrying buckets around. That bucket was too full too. Translation- 60 pounds. I could hardly get that bucket up to the hive top feeder because it is a 4 deep hive. 

The Wheaties are on the grocery list:lpf:


Kingfisher


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## USCBeeMan (Feb 7, 2009)

HBH to keep mold/fermenting down.

Try open feeding with 5 gallon bucket and a float.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

I was going to open feed, but in the past it as insighted robbing and the big hives and the feral hives get it all, and the little hives get hardly any.

Kingfisher


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## USCBeeMan (Feb 7, 2009)

Set the bucket some distance from the hives. I haven't had any robbing and I haven't had a problem with fighting over the SW.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Hambone said:


> Bleach, Apple Cider Vinegar, HBH.
> 
> Flyman in Terrell knows a lot about pumps.


How much apple cider vinegar per gallon? Will regular vinegar work?


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

I went ahead and got the one from TSC. It works GREAT. I would recommend it to everyone. 

Kingfisher


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## Hambone (Mar 17, 2008)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> How much apple cider vinegar per gallon? Will regular vinegar work?



A teaspoon to a gallon.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Do I add it when hot or room temp? 

Kingfisher


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## JoeMcc (May 15, 2007)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> I went ahead and got the one from TSC. It works GREAT. I would recommend it to everyone.
> 
> Kingfisher


The Spot Sprayer?

JoeMee


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Yes.
Kingfisher


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## Yuleluder (Mar 2, 2005)

How long do you think the spot sprayer would take to fill say a 1 gallon frame feeder. I'm interested in this unit.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

The pump is 1.1 gpm, so around a minute...I think it is faster. If you have floats in the feeders even less time. It is also good for my quart jar nuc feeders.

kingfisher


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## Tim Stewart (Jul 19, 2009)

I feed HFCS in 1 gallon quail waterers placed in an empty deep on top of the hive. To fill the feeders I have a 210 gallon tote that I get filled up at a commercial beekeepers' 30 miles away. The flow rate out of the inch and 3/4 hose I have is quite quick and I fill up the feeders at home in the shade, put them on the truck or in a wagon, and plop them on the hives, 15 seconds a hive in the sun. Big hives=more feeders in the box.

Hope this helps,

Tim Stewart


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## mrsl (Apr 21, 2010)

My husband rigged up a bilge pump ($12 from Walmart) in a drum - hook a length of hose to the pump, wire it with a couple of alligator clips to hook it to a 12V battery, and you're in business. Ours has a toggle switch to turn the pump on and off (once flowing, it can be turned off and will siphon). We used this to water livestock after a hurricane. It's cheap and works great - still using the same rig 6 years later.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

OK, reviving this thread. My friend Jim Lyon has a gas powered unit. I have the engine, looking for the pump. Any suggestions? My other pump kicked the bucket, and now I am using the bucket brigade. I am thinking I need a roller pump with a pressure relief value. Am I correct? If so, where can i get those items? 

Thanks
Mike


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Bump!!


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Come on somebody! This is not a stupid question! 


mike


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

I purchased the Chinese knock-off from Mann Lakes (Yamakoyo) and it has worked well for me. I was told that they are discontinuing it because it was failing those that didn't clean it with fresh water (Dadant has a more expensive model). The Mann Lakes pump has/had a 50' large commercial hose with 1" fittings and a gas pump style filling valve. I think it is faster than a gas pump. It literally takes seconds to fill a 2 gallon feeder.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Cannot find it on their site. I have the motor, need the pump..........

mike


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## HONEYDEW (Mar 9, 2007)

Any industrial supply place like Graingers would have any pump you could imagine, just tell them that you need to be able to pump hydraulic fluid, and at how many gallons per minute and they will probably be able to match you up. I say hydraulic fluid because if you say sugar water they'd go blank on you...


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## HVH (Feb 20, 2008)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> Cannot find it on their site. I have the motor, need the pump..........
> 
> mike


see link

http://content.yudu.com/Library/A1n7nr/MannLakeCatalog2010/resources/96.htm


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

That looks just like a trash pump? Where can i get the pressure valve. 

mike


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

What about this

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_14323_14323

mike


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

What about these Hf pumps? I have their engines. They are a honda copy and work good. http://www.harborfreight.com/portab...gas-engine-and-2-inch-inlet-outlet-95977.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-inch-clear-water-pump-with-25-hp-ohv-gas-engine-98013.html


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

I got one off ebay (but bigger)that looks like it was made in the same factory as the HF one. It has worked pretty good for pumping syrup. I plumbed a pressure release valve into it , but never used it. They just dont build up much pressure .


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Where did you get the valve?


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

Tractor Supply


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricu...ure-relief-valve-1-2-in-npt-0-650-psi-2106705


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Would a water turnoff not suffice? 

mike


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

You don't need a pressure relief valve on the trash pump. They dont build up the pressure with syrup like a regular pump would.
At least mine doesnt.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

So in reality it will be like a garden hose shooting out syrup instead of a on demand pump. So if I turn the nozzle off for a few minutes, the pressure will build like a garden hose, but not enough to make something break. 
Is my logic correct? I think in terms of garden hoses these days. Guess what keeps having to be fixed!

Mike


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

Mine is a 6.5 hp with a lot of reducers to get it down to hose size.I run it about half throttle with 50 foot of heavy hose and a gas nozzle.It fills a gallon jug in around 10 seconds.

Now when I flush it out to clean it, it shoots water about 10 feet! Someone on here was using one with just plain garden hose with no problems.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

So in reality for the limited amount that I will be doing (70) could I go with the smaller (and cheaper) 2.5 hp pump from harbor f?


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

If it were me , I would make sure its a 'trash' type pump. They look the same as what I got off ebay but I would want to make sure. Otherwise I see no problems.

Maybe someone who has used the smaller gas trash pumps will relate any info. 

Gotta run. 2 trucks broke down and still need to deliver bees tonight.
Situation Normal.....


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## MTINAZ (Jan 15, 2010)

I wonder if this would work with a longer hose?
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-diesel-transfer-pump-66784.html


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

I think that would work. I seriously am considering going the gas powered route. Last pump I had kept blowing fuses. 
BTW syrup can seriously corrode copper vehicle wires, ask me how I know

mike


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

Heres where I got mine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DuroMax-Portabl.../120680814400?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item1c19231740
This looks like the same pump but they are calling it 7 hp now. I would go with the smaller outlet (it took a lot of plumbing to reduce the 3 inches down.If you go this route make sure you set it up with cam-lok fittings It makes things a lot easier.

I cant tell how long it will last. These are known as Chinese knock off 'throw away' pumps.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks Mike. The harbor f ones are honda copies, like i could go to the honda place and get parts that would most likely fit. Plus you get the 2 year plan on it and its guaranteed til then! 
Thanks all. Keep em coming. 

mike


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## wabeeman (Dec 3, 2010)

I bought a new fuel tank and rigged a hatch for filling/mixing that is air tight when closed. I also put a air connection on the tank and hooked it up to air on my truck (through a pressure regulator so I don't blow the syrup tank up). Honestly, if the syrup is warm enough I don't even use the air pressure, I simply open the valve to let air in the tank and let gravity do the work (tank sits on a flat bed truck). I got the idea from one of the bee producers in CA. He had two tanks on his truck. One was about 2000 gal for syrup and the other was probably around 500 gal for compressed air. He'd fill both at the shop and then didn't need to run any engines when he got to the bee yard. I just stole his idea and scaled it down to sideliner size. Simple, cheap and quiet.


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

I think the air idea is more efficient than a gas pump. 

I do know someone who blew up his large storage tank at his shop right after the delivery truck left.

So be careful with the compressed air!

I told the guy I would have grabbed a hundred hives real quick and moved them home.


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## LoganV (Oct 25, 2010)

*Syrup pump that Won't Work*

I bought a Dayton centrifugal pump hooked to an AO Smith 3/4 hp electric motor. It tries but the thermal overload for the motor kicks in after only a few seconds. The syrup's just too thick at early April temps in E TN.

Gonna try a gas-powered trash pump ext unless something else jumps up to grab me.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

> So in reality for the limited amount that I will be doing (70) could I go with the smaller (and cheaper) 2.5 hp pump from harbor f?


Did you start this thread wanting to transfer 5-10 gallons?

I think I would have bought a plastic gas can and hung it on the back of a riding lawn mower at the height of the highest hive and just drove from hive to hive and poured it into the feeders. You could mount a 6 ft. hose on the container with a valve to make the dispensing easier.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Acebird said:


> Did you start this thread wanting to transfer 5-10 gallons?
> 
> I think I would have bought a plastic gas can and hung it on the back of a riding lawn mower at the height of the highest hive and just drove from hive to hive and poured it into the feeders. You could mount a 6 ft. hose on the container with a valve to make the dispensing easier.


My useage of syrup has gone way up...using 15ish gallons a week...pumped into little jars...been using a honey gate but is such a pain.

Mike


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

> My useage of syrup has gone way up...using 15ish gallons a week...pumped into little jars...been using a honey gate but is such a pain.


Are these like ball jars? Please explain what you are doing. I can't see the need for a gas powered pump for 15 gal per week usage. Are you mixing or blending the syrup?


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## Troy (Feb 9, 2006)

I know my system is not for everyone, but the poster said he is doing 15 gal a week. My system can do 10 gal a day no problem.

So here is my system.

I use a big stainless kettle to boil 50 lbs of water (about 6 1/4 gal) over my cajun cooker outdoors (I do it after dark to avoid bees mobbing me).

Once boiling I turn off the heat and pour in a 50lb bag of sugar. Mix for about a minute with a 5 gal paint stir stick. This makes a syrup that is 1:1 and right about 10lbs per gal.

Let it cool overnight. In the AM, I add some Honey B healthy and mix again. It is cool enough by morning to pour into smaller containers. I just use a pitcher to pour it into 1 gal milk jugs for transport out to the bee yards. Takes maybe 10 mins to pour them all, but this system is foolproof. No pumps or motors and hoses to break or deal with. My feeders all hold about a gal anyway, so a gal milk jug is perfect. 1 jug per hive. 10 lbs per feeding.

The only limiting factor here is the size of the original kettle. If you bought a stainless beer keg and cut the top off you could do more. Probably would fit 12.5 gal water and 100 lbs of sugar for a double batch. This would give 200 lbs or 20 gal.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

I buy corn syrup and mix in a special cane sugar mix. 
The bottom line is that I run about 45-50 hives...this fall will be running about a drum every other week....just a pain to do by hand....right now I am filling little jars with a honey gate and that gets really old really fast...and I waste a lot in the process....every time you have to go from one container to another you waste syrup...

mike


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

> every time you have to go from one container to another you waste syrup...


First question is why? Second question is why are you using a honey gate, use a ball valve that will shut off clean and is mounted to your bulk vessel.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Troy, KISS system, nice.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Acebird said:


> First question is why? Second question is why are you using a honey gate, use a ball valve that will shut off clean and is mounted to your bulk vessel.


Cause that 1 2 1 runs out fast and you spill some regardless of how careful you are. The honey gate was recommended to me...came mounted on the container to. Ball valve might work...but right now I am spending as little as possible. If I spend 50 bucks setting up a container with a ball valve....I can almost justify putting that $$ into a pump. How would you mount a ball valve on a plastic bucket??? If not a bucket, what kind of a container short of a barrel? If i have any intention to grow I would rather get the next size up so to speak. 
Mike


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Get your hands on a used plastic barrel. It could either be 30 gallon or 55. It will have a bung hole and a threaded hole or a threaded hole in the bung. There are tons of transfer pumps that will fit barrels and can be cleaned easily. Does it really need to be powered. They have them too driven by compressed air but they are pricey. Anything meant for food is going to be pricey. Stick with plastic and hand operated and it should fit your needs until you become a tycoon.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

You do not need to be a tycoon to own a gas powered transfer pump. Hard part around here is that "food grade" would not pass any FDA etc test...some of them are really bad.

mike


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> I am looking for something cheap.



Depco might be able to set you up with a pump but it won't be cheap...

http://www.depcopump.com/

They will take the time to get you what you want.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/material-handling/drum-barrel/drum-pumps/pistol-grip-drum-pump

There are thousands of pumps you can use.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

There are thousands of pumps for sale, but I suspect that the "big boys" are avoiding overpriced, plastic, manual pumps. 

For a plastic hand pump my choice would be a "Guzzler" bilge pump...


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

http://wwwd.graco.com/Distributors/DLibrary.nsf/Files/30659375/$file/30659375.pdf
Here is one for the big boys.
You will retire before you kill it.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

I would just have a gas powered pump... 

I don't see any advantage to having an engine to power an air compressor to power a pump...


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

A pneumatic piston pump is cleaner and can be washed down (aseptic) without damage to the power source. It can be stalled indefinitely as in a ball valve situation. The volume output can be varied by changing the pressure. It has the balls to get the job done when sticky viscous materials are involved. It will out live you so you can pass it down to your grandchildren. It can be used for honey.
The power source (air) can be used for a multitude of jobs other than transfer pump.
We were talking big boys were we not?


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

My grandkids wouldn't understand why I would have ever purchased a pump that required a compressor, powered by an engine...


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## Ronnie Elliott (Mar 24, 2004)

I use a new residential 40 gallon water heater, stood upright in the back of my 4-wheel mule, the w.h. unit had to be replaced do to bad heating element. I use this with a short water hose connected to the drain cut off, to water my just planted pine trees during dry summer months. Could this be adapted for feeding syrup? Cheap enough!


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Well I finally broke down and did a gas powered pump setup. Its a 6.5 (I think) HP Harbor Freight pump. I added a re-circulation setup. Let me know your thoughts. PM for what it cost. Its not too horribly expensive. I can also build pumps for anyone who is interested. Going to post pics and videos soon.
Mike


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)




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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)




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## schmism (Feb 7, 2009)

the pump in the vid is a trash pump .... not a "clear water pump"

a trash pump is a centrifugal vane pump. there are (in the case of the pump in the vid) metal blades that spin. the fluid enters the center of the spinning blades, then is tossed outward via centrifugal force. Output pressure is related to blade rpm, input pressure (which can be negative) and fluid viscosity. max pressure is usually ~80psi 

a roller pump is generally a positive displacement pump. with pressures that (depending on pump design) generally run hundreds of PSI. (if its a low volume pump it may be thousands of PSI)

A clear water shallow well pump will give you better performance, although generally not gas powered. There are 12v shallow well pumps (for solar type installs) that could be run off of a deep cycle bat if maintenance of a gas engine is an issue. the electric pump will be more reliable and cost less to run. although may have a higher upfront cost than an inexpensive trash pump.

a smaller 1" style clear water pump will likely provide all the performance you generally would need.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-clear-water-pump-with-98cc-gas-engine-68371.html

you can find used 250 gal totes on CL for ~$75 and could be put in the back of a pickup for bulk purchase of HFCS or if you wanted to batch 30-40 gal at a time. They feature built in ball valve drains that can be utilized for pump input.

a 12 transfer pump may work but may draw a lot of amps on such a viscous fluid
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-diesel-transfer-pump-66784.html


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## MichaBees (Sep 26, 2010)

schsmism;

So, in order to utilize the 12 volt pump, what would I have to do?


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

They sell it as a clear water pump. Its not made to take any particles. 
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-clear-water-pump-with-212cc-gas-engine-68375.html
Totes are the plan. Right now I get HFCS in barrels when I can and make sugar syrup when i cannot get it. I am heading up to paris today to get 50 or so gallons of HFCS.
mike


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Your inlet should not be near the suction line in the barrel. Both gas unites look over kill to me. Is feeding 50 hives that big a deal to warrant a powered pump? How much does each hive take?


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

In some cases yes, but generally speaking here its not that big of a issue. 
Well let me say this i am feeding close to 30-40 gallons tomorrow...really did not want to do it with a bucket!
Mike


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

As a commercial minded guy I would think that you have set up your apiary such that you could use a vehicle to access it. If so the diesel transfer pump is pre designed and proven. I would also think that a gravity system would work fine.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Yes all yards have vehicle access. This design is loosely based on one of a guy who has 4500 hives. He also is a member of this forum. He said in one day they fed 1000 gallons. This really is the way to go. Ever had a dead battery on a truck? This will go on the back of the truck or I may make a syrup trailer. Have not decided.
MIke


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Your HF pump looks just like ours. But we have not found the recycle to be necessary. Plumbed it directly to a 250 gal tote on a trailer. Used to pull it on the truck but found it easier just to dedicate a syrup trailer. We do go pick up the syrup with a big truck and then gravity feed into the tote on the trailer... could use the pump to transfer if in a real hurry though. We feed 13 yards and it definitely beats a bucket.


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## MTINAZ (Jan 15, 2010)

Do they make a diesel powered pump? I am currently running a 12v RV type pump but it is to slow and the one dead battery sucked.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> Ever had a dead battery on a truck? This will go on the back of the truck or I may make a syrup trailer.MIke


Not really. I drive a plow in the winter 8-10 hrs days in a row. The plow is powered by 12 V hydraulic system. I have never had my battery go dead. Replace it every 3 years. The scale of 4500 hives is quite different than 50. I wouldn't expect the equipment to be the same.

I would put a lift on my truck and lift the barrel for 50 hives. You might find other uses for the lift around the yard.


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## Buffalo Bee Farm (Jan 15, 2011)

I am feeding about 50 gallons myself with 66 hives... making too many splits after the nectar flow...LOL but i just cant watch bees sit there when they could be split now can I? LOL

Bill Lord sent me pictures of his syrup truck using a 300 gallon wide mouth tote and a gas trash pump. I plan to go to this next year as i am limited on cash thinks to my splitting and sugar buying... 

Right now i bring an extra empty bucket and pour half a bucket into it, this gives me two half filled buckets making it easier to lift and pour with no mess. I use a wide large funnel in my in hive mann lake cap and ladder feeders. The system works great for now, but i need something better... hence the pump next year. 

I did waste $40 bucks on a hydraulic hand pump that has a 5 gallon bucket top with it, nice pump but i counted about 90 plus "pumps" by hand to fill 1.5 gallons... Not fun bending over and i hurt my back doing it. 

I recommend the gas pump and tote or atleast the half bucket fill method. 

I am dedicating my 77' F-250 farm truck as a syrup truck next year... I really like the idea of not having to mix 50 gallons of syrup in my Kitchen... my poor wife...


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Another use for the trash pump. In the early spring when it is too cold for the HFCS (still solid)... we take 400 lbs of sugar and dump it in the tote then add 50 gal of water, put a 2" hose on the output of the pump and stick the end in the top of the tote. Crank it up and let it recirculate for 15 min... sure beats stirring.


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## Buffalo Bee Farm (Jan 15, 2011)

i was wondering about this as i know it will mix it for you, but you dont have a problem with the inlet hose gettign cloged from the solid and dry syrup in the bottom?

Would it be better to pour the water in, start the pump and circulation and then add the sugar?

Just wondering...


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

No you are right... that is the way we do it....


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## MichaelW (Jun 1, 2005)

Thanks for posting the video Kingfisher. I'm working on feeding at a similar scale. Its sounding like the gas powered trash style pump is the standard as electric pumps generally can't handle the load. Anyone using an electric one that works?

I tried out my new 50gallon gravity system this week. Gravity just does not suck enough out of a barrel on its side, even when lifted high with my tractor. The problem is when the hose dips slightly below the height of the nozzle. It just won't push on out the 1" hose more then a trickle, so you have to keep the hose high for it to work. Not easy. The syrup was just 1:1 and the day was hot. I'm really surprised it didn't work well.


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## MichaelW (Jun 1, 2005)

Mixing: Oh, also wanted to tell that I taped an air tool to the end of a plastic canoe paddle and used that to stir the sugar and water in the barrel while the air was bubbling agitation. That worked great. Took hardly no time at all.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

I did mix in some sugar into the HFCS. The pump worked really well. I was impressed to say the least!
mike


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

Santa brought me a 3" trash pump. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-full-trash-pump-with-212cc-gas-engine-68370.html

Now all I need is the trigger thing for the end and all the hoses. Does anyone know where to get the gas dispenser type thing for the end.?


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## whiskers (Aug 28, 2011)

Northern Tool has fuel hose and nozzles but I think it's overkill for syrup. Fuel hose probably isn't food grade if that's important. Water supply hose from a trailer supply will be food grade and probably less expensive. A ball valve (1/4 turn off to on) from the plumbing supply would work for me (also cheaper). When open the ball valve is a straight through hole, important for viscous materials. Have fun with your project.
Bill


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

EastSideBuzz said:


> Now all I need is the trigger thing for the end and all the hoses. Does anyone know where to get the gas dispenser type thing for the end.?


got 2 exactly like that, Just use a little cut on/off valve... hooked to a hose... just cost a few cents.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

I cant find the gas pump fitting out of the mann lake list. not sure if they sell it separately. Not sure which one would work best with Syrup?

http://content.yudu.com/Library/A1n7nr/MannLakeCatalog2010/resources/96.htm

https://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&sourceid=navclient&gfns=1&q=gas+pump+nossle


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Why do you need such a big pump to fill feeders?


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

It looks just like mine, which came from Mann Lake a cpl of years ago. It's not "such a big pump". It's just the right size for moving syrup from a tank thru a 150 ft hose into a yards worth of one gallon feeders inside of hives.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

TSC has the gas handle. I would use HD garden hose. I've got a medium duty one on my pump and its all i need. Just need a fitting to go from 3/4 NPT to garden hose.
mike


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

Grainger has everything you need.
--Mike


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> I would use HD garden hose. I've got a medium duty one on my pump and its all i need.


I was at HF and asked if they had heavy duty hose. I bought 2 cases of them 400 feet. Was going to use it in the yard but, I could use a few in this endevour. I figure when I get this thing all built I can take a tote fill it with water then pipe this to a pressure washer and have a portable unit to wash things with no water available. 

http://www.kotulas.com/deals/Produc...filiateId=rkg&ddkey=http:MarketingAttribution



loggermike said:


> Grainger has everything you need.
> --Mike


Granger is typically a bit pricey for me. Now they have everything under the sun but, on the high side for things.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Kingfisher Apiaries said:


> TSC has the gas handle. I would use HD garden hose. I've got a medium duty one on my pump and its all i need. Just need a fitting to go from 3/4 NPT to garden hose.
> mike


Of I remember correctly, I got my plumbing parts (pump to garden hose) at the TSC.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

A 5 HP two inch inlet and a three quarter outlet going through fittings and then down to a garden hose? He, he, that pump is way to big. A 1/2 HP pool pump is all you need. Buy a Honda 2000i generator and you are golden. It will make 1/10 the noise and have 200 other uses you won't believe why you didn't buy one to start with.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

I'll have to go check my pump and see what it is like and get back to y'all.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Acebird said:


> He, he, that pump is way to big. A 1/2 HP pool pump is all you need. Buy a Honda 2000i generator and you are golden. It will make 1/10 the noise and have 200 other uses you won't believe why you didn't buy one to start with.


Don't know Ace... You start feedin down here about late oct and nov. Some pretty cool mornings. That syrup can get pretty thick. Makes me wish for a bigger pump. Pumping syrup is not like pumping water.


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## loggermike (Jul 23, 2000)

>>Pumping syrup is not like pumping water.<<

Exactly. You will think a big pump is overkill until you actually have to pump a few hundred gallons of cold syrup.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

hpm08161947 said:


> Some pretty cool mornings. That syrup can get pretty thick. Makes me wish for a bigger pump. Pumping syrup is not like pumping water.


If it is a question of viscosity then the issue is the type of pump. It doesn't take 5 HP to fill a gallon bucket unless you are trying to fill it in a 1/2 sec. You need a pump that will develop pressure not volume. Off the top of my head I would say positive displacement. I know, you are looking for something cheap that you can rig up yourself.
How fast do you want to fill a gallon bucket through a garden hose? I am thinking along the lines of a shallow well pump (3/4 - 1 HP).


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Less than two minutes would be nice.


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

We have a centrifugal type trash pump that works best when the syrup is fairly warm and/or thin and not nearly as well with cold syrup but its awesome when used as a transfer pump when there is no suction required. We also have a gear pump which is really the pump of choice for most all feeding applications as it puts out plenty of volume regardless of how viscous the material you are pumping might be, it must be set up with a pressure bypass hose, though, because of the tremendous pressure it can build up.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Acebird said:


> How fast do you want to fill a gallon bucket through a garden hose? I am thinking along the lines of a shallow well pump (3/4 - 1 HP).


It takes 15-20 sec without slopping syrup. Remember these pumps step down from the 2" output on the pump to the 3/4" hose.

Also... these pumps are very common in rural ag areas, hence rather easy to acquire.


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## Beagler (Aug 18, 2008)

How much water do you add to HFCS for spring feeding, I know this helps with pump capacity?


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## whiskers (Aug 28, 2011)

On flow rate-
The larger diameter the hose is the higher the flow will be.
The shorter the hose the higher the flow rate.
Ball valve is a wide open hole when open, better flow rate than fuel nozzle.
If you start the pump and recirculate syrup back to the tank friction will warm the syrup reducing viscosity and improving flow rate.
Bill


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

jim lyon said:


> We have a centrifugal type trash pump that works best when the syrup is fairly warm and/or thin and not nearly as well with cold syrup but its awesome when used as a transfer pump when there is no suction required.


There are a lot of piston transfer pumps designed to pump directly from a drum but most I have seen are hand pumps or pumps driven by compressed air. I know these will work because I have used them. Diaphragm pumps are another choice but if the viscosity gets too high you could be in trouble. Next and best choice is a lobe pump but that is not so good if the fluid is thin like water. All of these pumps are expensive or at least I can't find one that is so mass produced that it would be cheap. A gear pump I wouldn't recommended because they are susceptible to damage when solids are concerned.
The trick is to find something cheap which would be mass produced or old and outdated where you could pick it up cheap on craigslist. That's where I was thinking of an old well point that usually had a piston pump that could easily put out 50 psi at 10 gal / min.

I'll keep looking but a centrifugal pump goes to heck if the fluid becomes viscous.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

whiskers, there are some other parameters that affect flow rate like temperature and pressure but in general what you said is true. Using the pump to break down the viscosity with friction might have an undesirable time factor to it.

Since I don't know exactly what you are up against from one operation to another and you seem to be happy with these 5HP trash pumps I will leave it to you all. But 5 HP to fill a gallon jug in 30 seconds is nuts and if viscosity is your real problem then a centrifugal pump is not your friend or you should be warming the tanks so viscosity is not a problem.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

Acebird said:


> A 5 HP two inch inlet and a three quarter outlet going through fittings and then down to a garden hose? He, he, that pump is way to big. A 1/2 HP pool pump is all you need. Buy a Honda 2000i generator and you are golden. It will make 1/10 the noise and have 200 other uses you won't believe why you didn't buy one to start with.


ACE, For one the syrup is much thicker than water. You need all the HP you can get.
By time you by the pump and $2,000 generator you can have several of the other kind of pumps made. 



Acebird said:


> If it is a question of viscosity then the issue is the type of pump. It doesn't take 5 HP to fill a gallon bucket unless you are trying to fill it in a 1/2 sec. You need a pump that will develop pressure not volume. Off the top of my head I would say positive displacement. I know, you are looking for something cheap that you can rig up yourself.
> How fast do you want to fill a gallon bucket through a garden hose? I am thinking along the lines of a shallow well pump (3/4 - 1 HP).


You want to fill that bucket or DV feeder in 5-10 seconds. A 6.5hp 2" in/out will only pump around 6 GPM. 




Acebird said:


> Since I don't know exactly what you are up against from one operation to another and you seem to be happy with these 5HP trash pumps I will leave it to you all. *But 5 HP to fill a gallon jug in 30 seconds is nuts* and if viscosity is your real problem then a centrifugal pump is not your friend or you should be warming the tanks so viscosity is not a problem.


REALLY ITS NUTS? I am going to be running at least one lawn crew next year, starting a irrigation business, and selling 100 queens every couple of weeks and making up 50 or so nucs. Plus trying to wrap up school. I need every extra second. And I am a small operation! Come work with us for a few days and you will see what I am talking about. Its all about getting the most done in the least amount of time. Its a bottom line type of thing not necessarily about whats quietest or is multi-use or whatever. I know at least 2 of the posters (I am not one of them) above are doing this full time and KNOW THEIR STUFF. They do this for a LIVING, NOT A HOBBY! Take them at their word! Work in a real world situation and you will totally agree with all of my points above.
Sincerely, 
Mike


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Acebird said:


> But 5 HP to fill a gallon jug in 30 seconds is nuts and if viscosity is your real problem then a centrifugal pump is not your friend or you should be warming the tanks so viscosity is not a problem.


It takes all day to feed all our yards... but of course much of that is travel time...

But consider... one of those upstate NY beekeepers was telling me that he unloads one semi into 1 yard when he brings his bees down for the winter... so that is 400 hives in one yard..... that makes 200 min of pump time... assuming 2 guys... 1 lifting lids... 1 pumping.

Beekeepers with 2 hives are not going to need syrup pumps.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Beagler said:


> How much water do you add to HFCS for spring feeding, I know this helps with pump capacity?


when we used barrels, we would add 5 gallons of water to the barrel before filling it. That helped to keep the syrup from setting up.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

hpm08161947 said:


> so that is 400 hives in one yard..... that makes 200 min of pump time.


So now you are talking a rate of 2 gals / min. to put a gallon in each hive, right? All the diaphragm pumps I can find are either too small or too big, same with plunger pumps. The too big wouldn't be that much of a problem because you can slow them down but the costs go up like crazy.

I have come across some irrigation pumps that might work but I don't trust what they are and how they are specified.


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

Our feeders hold an average of about 9 lbs. net of diluted (1 part water to 7 parts 55 hfcs) and our gear pump fills it in 5 to 6 seconds. Any faster than that is just too fast to fill neatly.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Do you have a filter or fine mesh on the suction side to prevent any crystals from going through the gears. Maybe it might help other people if you gave the model of that pump you are using. You are not using a 5hp motor on it are you?


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

hpm08161947 said:


> Beekeepers with 2 hives are not going to need syrup pumps.


 :applause:

All of Mann Lakes setups are 6-8 Gal a minute.

The gear pump has been designed specifically for pumping high viscosity liquids. This gear pump has a built-in relief valve with 1 1/2" ports. Pumps 6-8 gallons per minute at 1750 RPM with 90° honey. https://www.mannlakeltd.com/mm5/mer..._Code=mannlake&sType=1&Search=pump#!HP-458/0/


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

There you go 3/4 HP, more like it. Are there any precautions for preventing particles going through the gears or do you just take your chances? The problem with buying a pump from a distributor is you don't get any pump curves. There is some insurance in that if it didn't work for the general public the word would get out and they wouldn't be selling them anymore. 90 degrees is quite warm and I don't know how much the viscosity would change if the syrup were at 40. Things to look out for with a gear pump would be particles and cavitation. Either will destroy the pump.
I have a feeling that at 90 degrees a simple pool pump would work just fine as long as it was mounted close to the tank with the fluid level above. I would be surprised if someone hasn't tried this and could tell us where it falls short. It is the pump that is falling short not the motor.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird,
You keep bringing up "particles and cavitation". Consider this. When syrup comes to a beekeeper, w/ storage enuf to handle it, it comes in a tanker, often warm. That syrup is, at that time, "fit for human consumption". In other words clean. If it wasn't to be used by a beekeeper, it could have been used to make anything else corn syrup is used for by people as food. So, there isn't any crap or junk in it. It's clean.

Then the syrup is pumped into large storage tanks, which are closed. Nothing gets in them, usually. From those, large, 1,000 gallon tanks or larger, the syrup is pumped into 300 gallon "totes", which are plastic tanks in baskets, which you may be familiar w/ from other applications. They have lids on them. So, very little, if anything, goes into them, other than what is put into them on purpose.

From the tote, the syrup is pumped into feeders inside of hives.

I guess some particles may form in syrup which has sat for a period of time. But that syrup can be heated back to a liquid state and water added to it so it won't effect the pump.

Kingfisher,
Why are you messing w/ a generator. Get, or set up yourself, a gas operated motor to run your pump. They work great.


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

Acebird said:


> Do you have a filter or fine mesh on the suction side to prevent any crystals from going through the gears. Maybe it might help other people if you gave the model of that pump you are using. You are not using a 5hp motor on it are you?


It is an old converted honey pump of the type still commonly sold at bee supply outlets. We use a 6hp engine on it though I think something smaller work work just as well. The efficiency is amazing about a quart of fuel to pump 1000 gallons. We quickly learned not to use any type of screen on the 1" suction hose as they are quickly plugged by stuff that easily passes through the pump. These pumps are able to pump a lot of small debris without a problem. Obviously a metal object would lock them up but we have never had that happen probably because only rarely something like that would find it's way into our tank and if it did it would probably be too heavy to get pulled up the approximately 4' height of our tank with the relatively slow flow rate and frequent shut offs. Seems like I got a screw lodged in one years ago while pumping honey and it was a relatively simple fix to pull it apart and remove it. Didn't do any gear damage at all. If used real hard with honey the weak spot is bushing wear that results in stripping the external gears but again they are pretty easy to replace.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

If you are sure the syrup is clean a gear pump is your best bet. If it is not, a lobe pump is your best bet. If you can find an old point water well piston pump for cheap that will work. I suggested the generator because it has so many other uses and is a tax deductible expense. Or he can buy a 5HP trash pump and make believe it takes 5HP to fill a gallon jug because a centrifugal pump is the wrong choice for the job.

Mark, you think that food items are pure? Do you have any idea how much animal hair, bug parts and turds are allowed in the grain of your cerial? Nothing is pure.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Acebird said:


> There you go 3/4 HP, more like it. Are there any precautions for preventing particles going through the gears or do you just take your chances?


Around here we call them "Trash Pumps", mainly because their typical use is to throw the input hose into a pond and pump the water into a water tanker..... which is then used to water tobacco and sweet potatoes as they are planted. These old irrigation ponds are full of junk... so these pumps are pretty tough!


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

No way is a trash pump a gear pump. They are either a cetrifugal design or a plunger that will suck up rocks.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Acebird said:


> No way is a trash pump a gear pump. They are either a cetrifugal design or a plunger that will suck up rocks.


So... centrifugal is bad? Why... I seem to have missed that. And 5HP is way too much HP.... 

Sounds like you are suggesting the kind of pump that is on a sprayer.... hook up to the battery kind of deal....


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Acebird said:


> I suggested the generator because it has so many other uses and is a tax deductible expense.
> 
> Mark, you think that food items are pure? Do you have any idea how much animal hair, bug parts and turds are allowed in the grain of your cerial? Nothing is pure.


The single use motorized pump system is a Business Deduction too. As is the gas, repairs and maintenence required to run it. So, I don't see a generator a plus. Actually, w/ as portable as the system I have is, a generator would be heavier, in my imagination. So that would be a negative to me. I like being able to pick up my pump system by hand, when the Bobcat isn't handy or necassary.

I have never seen any of that stuff in any of the thousands and thousands of gallons of HFCS which I have seen. I know what you are refering to, especially in grains, but, having worked as a Milker in a number of Dairys and working around HFCS as I have, maybe there are different standards which are easier to maintain. Liquids lend themselves to higher standards of purity.


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## jim lyon (Feb 19, 2006)

I don't want to leave the impression that Mikes pump is in any way a bad pump at all. A trash pump like that is probably the most economical, functional, multi use type of pump out there, it works fine for syrup in almost all conditions, the only downside is that as viscosity increases its efficiency decreases. Worst case is it takes from a few seconds up to 10 seconds or so longer to pump a gallon. It is really only an issue if you have a lot of high viscosity feed to pump.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

jim lyon said:


> the only downside is that as viscosity increases its efficiency decreases. Worst case is it takes from a few seconds up to 10 seconds or so longer to pump a gallon. It is really only an issue if you have a lot of high viscosity feed to pump.


Bingo. If it is taking 5hp to accomplish 1/2 horsepower of actual work then it isn't very good. I am not a chemist but the shearing of the pump inpeller which breaks down the viscosity of the syrup could be doing something to the HFCS that is not beneficial. I don't know.
Mark, a Honda 2000i is about the size of two lunch pails and weighs under 50 pounds. The 5hp trash pump will dwarf it. Trust me you can lift it. I can so you can. If the syrup is clean by all means use a gear pump and find the smallest lawn mower engine to drive it if you want gas driven. I see benefits to have all the power equipment electrically driven instead of maintaining multiple gas engines. I actually have my gas driven compressor for sale now that I have a generator.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

There is only one gas engine in my syrup system, so I don't know what you mean by "multiple gas engines".

What drives your generator? Gas? You traded a gas driven compressor for a generator and what? An electric compressor, which you run off of your gas driven generator? I'm getting a headache. I think I'll start up my syrup poump for some relief.


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

Wow so much discussion over my trash pump. That is the way most of the bee keepers do it. It is cheap and works. Who cares how many horse power it is or how much gas it uses. As long as I can get the hfcs from the tote into the feeders then that is all I care about. If there is another way to do it great. I have a proven system that works for so many commercial guys why fight the wheel. Now all I need is the piping and the dispenser handle thingy.


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## whiskers (Aug 28, 2011)

Is there a market for syrup pumps? At what price? Could be a niche for me.
Bill


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## EastSideBuzz (Apr 12, 2009)

HF Trash pump and some hoses is the cheapest way to go. Mann Lake has a selection of them also. I guess maybe you could create a specialty out of if. But, I would keep your day job, beekeeping is hard enough.


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

EastSideBuzz said:


> *Wow so much discussion over my trash pump.* That is the way most of the bee keepers do it. It is cheap and works. Who cares how many horse power it is or how much gas it uses. As long as I can get the hfcs from the tote into the feeders then that is all I care about. If there is another way to do it great. I have a proven system that works for so many commercial guys why fight the wheel. Now all I need is the piping and the dispenser handle thingy.


Thats what happens when the pot gets stirred....:lpf:


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

EastSideBuzz said:


> Now all I need is the piping and the dispenser handle thingy.


If it was a gear pump you wouldn't be limited by the dispenser handle thingy. You wouldn't be limited by temperature variations. You wouldn't be breaking your back toting around something that weighs a ton. Maybe others are not interested it what "everyone else does" they want something better.

Go to HD and get a ball valve that fits on the end of a garden hose. You needed a tread to figure that one out?


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## Kingfisher Apiaries (Jan 16, 2010)

sqkcrk said:


> Kingfisher,
> Why are you messing w/ a generator. Get, or set up yourself, a gas operated motor to run your pump. They work great.


I am not. Ace brought it up. I've got the gas powered trash pump setup. 
mike


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Okay. I misunderstood.


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

I know this thread is about syrup pumps, but from what I have seen a pressure tank takes the prize for speed, reliability and quiet.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

And practicality?


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

I have no idea what you mean Mark. But way way cheaper than all these mechanical items.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

What are you using to pressurize?


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

Air compressor.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Yeah, What Acebird asked. How are you applying pressure? and, are you using the same tanks as others are?

What's the set up like? Tank of syrup, hose attatched for dispensing syrup, etc. The tank of syrup would have to be pretty tight, w/ a stem thru which to apply the air pressure I guess.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

How many feeders between refill?


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

Mark I just charge the tank at the shop. You either have to allow space for the air in the feed vessel or have a separate vessel for air. So simple and effective. A used 350 gal butane tank (obsolete) cost me $50 30 years ago. Still using the same set up, never fails.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Is the tank mounted on a pallet? Or does it just stay on the truck for the season in which it is used?


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

It is on legs which provides space for the hose & fuel nozzle underneath. I just put it on and take it off as needed, it's easy. Charge it through an air quick coupling which seals after disconnecting. PSI required depends somewhat on temp and viscosity of feed. I usually fill about 250 feedrs with this setup on one charge which is quite good enough for me with local locations. You can also supply pressure with a bottle of nitrogen and a regulator if you want to fill the feed tank to capacity. One bottle of N (1300 psi) will empty my tank about 3 times for $13 or so. I really appreciate the silence of this type of set up.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Silence is nice. Something of value.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

How many GPM will this pressurized tank pump deliver on a cool day... say 50F (hi) and 32F (lo)? 

Is your tank an old propane tank?

Sounds interesting. I agree.... Silence is special.


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

Herb it fills an "inside" feeder in 2 or 3 seconds. If it is cold or slow for some reason just increase PSI.


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## hpm08161947 (May 16, 2009)

Tom G. Laury said:


> Herb it fills an "inside" feeder in 2 or 3 seconds. If it is cold or slow for some reason just increase PSI.


I like the idea... it eliminates a piece of equipment. I mean.. you always have to have a compressor around... at least I seem to. So it gives it another job... and my compressors seem to last longer than my syrup pumps.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Tom,
Can you post a pic(s)?

Larry


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

Yes, it's just the compressor for the mech shop area, not additional. Belts, motors, pumps, bypass valves, all something to malfunction at the junction. I always meant to build a small boom to carry the hose around without dragging it but never did.


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

Larry I will take a photo today and post it. The tank is on the one ton right now.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

You're a good man Tom, I don't care what Mark B has to say about you!


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Hey!! What'd I say?!! Don't go getting me in trouble Sat. Nite Live. I can do enuf of that myself. Thank you. No help needed.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Tom G. Laury said:


> One bottle of N (1300 psi) will empty my tank about 3 times for $13 or so. I really appreciate the silence of this type of set up.


Nitrogen is more in line with "food grade" and has limitless pressure as far as moving syrup.:thumbsup:
But the sideliner can get away with air without many people complaining. I would filter the air at the very least.
What are you using for a vessel on the syrup? How much pressure is it rated for?
Mark, I got that gas powered compressor unless you were thinking of getting a generator.
I could make you a good deal.


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## sqkcrk (Dec 10, 2005)

Thank you, but I'll stick w/ the system I already have.


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

Here is a photo of my pressure tank. It is an old butane tank, rated for 350 gallons of butane and 250 psi.

IMG_0558.jpg


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

try again didn't work.


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## whiskers (Aug 28, 2011)

Nascar pit crews used to use a similar system to charge a water hose, I suppose they still do but I've been away from that for quite a while. One team in the late 60's with one of those tanks had a regulator fail, there was no safety valve on the tank and the tank exploded. If I remember correctly a man was killed.

If you charge a low pressure tank from a high pressure cylinder the low pressure tank must have a safety valve. Don't depend on the regulator alone.

Bill


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## Tom G. Laury (May 24, 2008)

Here is a photo of my pressure feed tank.


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## snl (Nov 20, 2009)

Thanks for taking the time to post...........it's a MONSTER


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

whiskers said:


> If you charge a low pressure tank from a high pressure cylinder the low pressure tank must have a safety valve. Don't depend on the regulator alone.
> 
> Bill


He could use a simple rupture disk and be safe. I would suggest two gages also. They both won't malfunction at the same time.


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## azbees (Jul 23, 2011)

Tom G. Laury said:


> Here is a photo of my pressure feed tank.


Thanks for all the posts.I am thinking of getting this set up but was wanting to know if there is any way of mixing cane sugar with water with that same set up?


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