# Anyone have pictures of beehives on trailers, like a tandem axel utility type trailer



## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

A friend of mine is giving me a 16' tandem axel trailer, all I have to do to it is put a new deck on it! Im looking for pictures of people with something like this so I can get ideas of what I want to do to it. I plan on putting a boom on it to lift pallets with two hives each on them. Basically I am tired of hand loading hives into the back of my truck when I move them to places and eventually I want to get into small orchard pollination as well. So anyhow, just looking for some pictures or ideas on this!! Thanks!!


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

I have 6, 16 and 20 hive trailers with two hive pallets on them permanently. On two, they face to the inside so that I can work them from the back and they face to the center of the trailer. On the 6 hive trailer, they face two to the front, two to the back and the center two to the sides. I can work all six without standing in the flight path of the others. The 6 and 16 hive trailers have screened bottom pallets, and the 20 hive trailer has solid bottom pallets. The 16 and 20 hive trailers have 4' tall removable sideboards to hide the hives. I can move them by just strapping them down and netting them. The 16 hive unit is really not a trailer, but a flatbed moveable by my drop box truck.


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## julysun (Apr 25, 2012)

This is probably common method but new to me. I used an explosive nail gun to floor my 16 foot trailer with treated 2X6s. Easy and solid. Just my two cents....


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

If it were me, on a small sized trailer, I would make sides with heavy mesh wire panels that were insulated from the posts.(Removable of course to allow for hive loading with fork lift) Attach a solar charger system to the panels. You could haul your trailer full of hives to a new location and just leave it-without unloading. Charge the solar system to secure the hives from bears or vandalism and walk away until you need them back.


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## Nichols747 (May 21, 2010)

Lauri, that's exactly what I'm working on down here in the black bear heaven of SW WA! I have a trailer I think I can fit 8 hives in, and I'm going to tow it onto some property I've been placing and removing hives from each year. Hopefully I can eliminate most of the lifting!


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## JCA Beeswax Processing (Feb 18, 2012)

I have run trailers behind trucks with the boom on the end of the truck. For you, be sure that you mount the boom on the front so you can also load the truck if needed. You may wish to consider loading single hives or stacks of 2 , one on the other rather than pallets of 2 hives. Issues you can run into are the unexpected move with supers on the hives and mismatched heights of hive pairs. Weight can be an issue when loading a trailer with a boom due to the torque exerted by the boom when hives are out on the end. Trailers are much lighter than trucks so more care must be used. 4 way leveling of the boom will be a must.


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## Mr.Beeman (May 19, 2012)

A guy here runs 4 hives per pallet. He turns the hives 90* to each other. Seems to work good for him. 
I have seen a few of the beehive trailers before. Set it and forget it! 
I like the solar charger idea Lauri. Keeps all kinds of pests from getting close to the hives.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Thanks for the replys!! I do plan on mounting a boom on the trailer itself, it will be a homemade boom set up using winches and stuff, still working on that design!! I just think a trailer would be the way to go and I can set it up the way I want to with storage and stuff. I will save a lot of time and wear on my back and if I need to move the bees I strap down and hook up and go!! Which will be handy in my situation.

As far as electrifying the trailer, I do plan on putting removable posts that extend out about 5' from the trailer that will hold a wire about 3' off the ground, but its more to deal with cows than bears in my country!! This way I can pull up drop the trailer set up the E-fence and leave, no more driving posts an dealing with barbed wire!!

Cant wait to get this rolling!!


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Don't forget to post photos when you get it done!


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Lauri said:


> Don't forget to post photos when you get it done!


Will do!!


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Just wondering if you got a design in mind why are you asking ... for a pat on the back?


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Ace, why are you responding to any of my posts period? Are you lacking attention and need a hug? Or have you not posted in a while and need to get your post counts up? Or perhaps your still distraught that I punked you on another bee site? 

I'm ALWAYS looking for better ideas and open to suggestions, unlike the controlling personality you have where it's your way or no way, now take your toys and go home little boy.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

BeeGhost said:


> Or perhaps your still distraught that I punked you on another bee site?


I am not sure what you mean. I left the other site because of its censorship tendencies over a year ago. Are you one of it's controlling members? I have no idea. Could care less...
So did I strike a nerve?


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## Barry (Dec 28, 1999)

continue this in private.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Thanks to odfrank for the pictures of his trailers, very inspiring ideas!


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Where are they?


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## seyc (Jul 15, 2012)

BeeGhost said:


> Thanks to odfrank for the pictures of his trailers, very inspiring ideas!


I would like to see those.


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

BeeGhost, I have 20 hives on a tandem trailer. I screwed 4 rows of pressure treated 4x4's to the deck, and I use them as hive stands... two rows to the driver's side, two rows to the passenger side. That way when it's time to move, I can easily run a ratchet strap under each hive. I leave my hives on the trailer permanently, though they are not permanently attached to the trailer, they just normally sit on the 4x4's.

To move the hives:
1. Ratchet strap each hive together.
2. Take 1x4's the length of the trailer, and screw them to the front and another to the back, attaching each row of hives together. My hives face outward. 
3. I take 4 1x4's and screw them to a pair of hives at each end of the trailer, and a couple of pair of hives in the center. 
4. I run a heavy duty ratchet strap across the top of each row, from the front of the trailer to the rear.

Step one ties each hive together.
Step two ties all hives in each row together, so they don't shift (too much, sigh)
Step three ties the two rows together, so that on uneven ground, the row of hives does not fall over.
Step four ties the two rows of hives to the trailer.

I learned this almost the hard way.... This system keeps the hives from shifting in any direction, although if one drives not very slowly over uneven ground, or around corners, well, use your imagination.
Regards,
Steven
When steps 2 and 3 are done,


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Not for nothing guys if you install shocks on your trailers you won't be reassembling your hives once you get where you are going.


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

Ace, get a tandem trailer with shocks, put 20 hives on it, some 3-5 stories high, move the trailer from one field to another via a paved highway, don't strap them down, and tell us how it goes.
Regards,
Steven


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Thank you for the insight Steven!! And Aces two hives ride just fine in their permanant location on blocks. I love how he gives all sorts of useless ideas on something he has no experience with, but suggests it with such confidence at the same time trying to belittle others.

Again, thank you to everyone who have had some great ideas and have shared their experiences, I appreciate it. 

And Acebird, please dont respond anymore on my threads..................thank you.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

My bee trailers when I built them. A six jumbo hive trailer, a 20 hive trailer with standard Langstroth deeps, and a sixteen hive BeeBed with Langtstroth dimension boxes but Jumbo depth brood frames. I built these because I keep 50 hives on a commercial lot with permits for eight. I have been busted twice and want it quicker and easier to move next time. The sideboards hide them to a degree from prying eyes. In summer they stack up above the sideboards. To move I have to somewhat equalize their height, strap and tarp. 

http://s156.photobucket.com/albums/t7/odfrank/Misc Beestuff/Bee Trailers/


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Steven, did I say not to strap them down? Do you feel shocks would be a detriment and the ratchet straps will make up the difference? Will the straps also prevent the comb from being ripped from the frames?


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

Beeghost,

Please post the photos of what you come up with as I've wondered how to do that as well. I'm all ears when I can learn from others. 

Odfrank, 

Thanks for linking those photos.


Ironically I visit this site less than I used to because of the bird. The site that I know of that he left due to "censorship" has become pleasant again where ideas are exchanged without sniping. What some call censorship is what others might call ramifications of ignoring of common courtesy and web-etiquette.


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

D Coates, just ignore him...apparently he can't help himself.


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

BGhost, I'm trying to upload two pix of my setup when I moved them, hope it comes thru. My hives are further apart that OdFrank's, I like to have a bit of room to work, I can be kinda klutzy. And I like to set the lids between hives when opening them. Can set supers from one hive atop another when inspecting, lids are out of the way if I need to go get something. 
Regards,
Steven


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

It worked!* Ok, in this picture you should see the 1x4's that cross brace the two rows of hives.* I'm not sure if the individual hive straps will be that obvious, but you can see the large yellow ones running lengthwise. If you don't cross-brace the two rows, on uneven ground they could tip...I barely avoided a catastrophe last year. Hope these pix help.
Regards,
Steven


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## D Coates (Jan 6, 2006)

Stephen,

Great photos. They tie up all the questions I had from your post. I'm considering moving a few hives next year in a fashion that I can move them back when needed with minimal effort.

One of my weaknesses is ignoring a self-absorbed bore. To avoid being one myself in said situations I've learned it may be best to remove myself. It's good for me but it can encourage the others' behavior because no one stands up to it. Fortunately, said fool eventually hangs themself with their own rope, blaming others (censorship) but is gone nonetheless. It's ironic that I check in and immediately run into the very person/behavior I was trying to avoid. I'll check back in a couple months.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Very cool Steven! Thanks for the pictures as well! 

Seeing all these trailer pictures is making me antsy to get my trailer going!


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

One thing to point out - those hives stay on the trailer 24/7/365. I only strap and tie them together when I move them. And I move them twice, from clover to soybeans in late June, and back to clover fields middle of October.
Regards,
Steven


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## Peakebrook (Apr 18, 2010)

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u637/peakebrook/IMG_20120316_164815.jpg

The above link will show a picture of the trailer that I made up using the frame from an old travel trailer. I cut the center axle section out and narrowed the wheel base. The front and back sections of the original trailer were welded together to create the deck. The deck section was than suspended over the shortened axle section to create a deck-over trailer. Angle iron was welded on the deck to create five separate "cradles" to hold 4-hive pallets. The original hitch was removed and a drop hitch installed. The overall width of the trailer and pallets is 72 inches. 

When loaded with pallets and hives, the entrance to the hives is about 36 inches off the ground. This has helped minimizing maintenance around the entrances. The hives are worked from the center of the trailer since there is approximately 28 inches between the backs of the hives on each side. This creates a walk way down the center of the trailer. Working the supers is easy, but working the hive bodies can be somewhat tiring on the back. 

The trailer tows well, but have only used locally and not at highway speeds. The overall axle width is somewhat narrow for the height, but I have never had any problems. Care had been taken to balance loads when not transporting a full trailer. I use a skid steer to load and unload pallets. Small D-rings are welded to the angle iron to provide attachment points for ratchet straps that hold in place the two hives on one side of each pallet. Ten straps total for a full load.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

Why did you feel shortening the wheel base and raising the deck is better? That has got to be hairy in a cross wind.


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Nice job on the trailers guys, thanks for the pics.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Peakebrook,

Very cool!!! No weed whackin needed when you pull that baby up to the site, I like it!! Thanks for the picture bud!!


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Acebird said:


> Why did you feel shortening the wheel base and raising the deck is better? That has got to be hairy in a cross wind.


Maybe because he wanted to?? Hairy in a cross wind..........you know he mentioned he doesnt go on a highway right?? Not to mention a cross wind will cause shorter trailers to walk a bit anyhow, even a small boat on a trailer...............heck, even a vehicle without a trailer will get pushed in a cross wind.

Acebird, have you ever given a compliment to anyone about there homemade project?? I mean, people put a lot of work and effort into making things and are proud of the project they completed...........only to have you tell them what a piece of junk it is or that it wont work. I have YET to see you make anything worth while.................including posts.

Didnt your mama teach you that if you "cant say nothing good, dont say anything at all" ? Or are you just compelled to put your two cents on everything no matter what it is, whether you know anything about it or not?? 

It would simply amaze you at how many posts I dont reply to because either I dont know the answer or ive never dealt with it. Give that option a try sometime, youll make more friends than enemies that way.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

BeeGhost said:


> Acebird, have you ever given a compliment to anyone about there homemade project?


Sure I have many times. When I see something that doesn't make sense to me I ask to find out what I am missing or to let a person know what my reservations are. Many other people do that on this forum but they don't have you jumping down their throats for asking questions or voicing their concerns.
When I see other people do the same thing that I do I feel it is acceptable to most people on the forum and ignore the clatter from people like yourself.

There had to be a reason for Peakebrook to raise the center of gravity and at the same time shorten the wheel base. Both will make the trailer less stable and more apt to flip.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Acebird said:


> When I see something that doesn't make sense to me I ask to find out what I am missing or to let a person know what my reservations are.


Thats the thing though Ace, you are not an expert. Ive seen you give misleading information many times. You have two hives and limited years in experience, yet you have a "solution" for everything. I am more apt to take information as gospel from a sideliner/commercial guy that makes a living off bees, because that is their living and if they mess up, it costs them money. I am also more apt to take info from a hobbiest that has been doing it for a long time and has multiple hives, because they have experienced a lot of different scenerios.

Heck in the last 1 1/2 years ive probably experienced more things than you and I have learned from them and shared my experiences, but if I havnt dealt with a certain problem I sure wont give my opinion on the subject but instead I will make a mental note of others experiences so that if it does happen to me I know a solution.

Ive seen you post your opinions on things you could not possibly know about first hand, and to me a lot of it is misguiding information that could put a new beekeeper deeper into a problem. 

As far as Peakbrooke's trailer, he is using it for bees, hes not hauling tons of hay down the highway doing 70 mph. He hauls from one site to another and back and it sounds like he has no trouble doing it either. 

Heres another thing to think about, people may do things just because they want to, no rhyme or reason, but its their idea and they roll with it. If it works and they are happy with it, right on! If they build it and are not happy with the results then usually they ASK for an opinion for a better solution. I build hair brain things all the time, sometimes they work and sometimes I fall flat on my face, but I learn along the way what works and when it does I share it, when it doesnt work I go back to the drawing board and will also let people know of my experience so they dont make the same mistake and perhaps they will have a solution for me that will save me time and effort.

I appreciate everyones home made stuff and fabrication projects because I know how much work and thought goes into them, plus I appreciate enginuity and use other peoples ideas in my own projects.


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## waynesgarden (Jan 3, 2009)

I'm using a truck now to move hives, but previously I used a Tractor Supply trailer towed behind my Geo Tracker with no problems. Apparently, from the previous posts, I've been fortunate since I have Acebird on permanent ignore and and am blissfully unaware of what I've been doing wrong and the dangers I've been risking.

I do like the idea of a longer trailer with hives permanently mounted in a bear-proof cage.

Wayne


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

BeeGhost said:


> Thats the thing though Ace, you are not an expert.


I never claim to be. It is people like yourself that give me that title usually in a derogatory way. I will say that I have a whole lot more expertise in manufacturing, fabrication and designing structures than most beekeepers on this forum. It is very easy to pat someone on the back for projects that they do. It is how you make friends, right. But what if all the blue smoke encourages someone else to copy a bad design? What if someone gets hurt? What if someone loses their hives? Is that all good? Should I keep quiet for those people? Regardless of what you think, I don't think that way.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Acebird said:


> I will say that I have a whole lot more expertise in manufacturing, fabrication and designing structures than most beekeepers on this forum.


And that has what to do with bees and survivability?? And in the design of your extractor you seemed to stray away from your "expertise". You bashed my extractor design saying it was contaminating my honey, and I explained everything in detail to you and you still said it will contaminate my honey................but was I the one with a dirty non food grade ceiling fan motor mounted to the bottom of my extractor?? With honey seeping all through the motor and such, must be really easy to clean between extractions............correct? Need I mention blue smoke on your design?

My motor is placed outside of the extractor with a protective Lexan cover placed over the entrance to prevent honey particles from leaving the extractor and anything getting into the extractor...........and to think I dont have an engineering degree. 

I do have a lot of friends, and yes, I give credit where credit is due. If I think something is unsafe, I will tell someone........in private. I sure wont go on a public forum or make sure there is a crowd of people around when I mention the safety hazard. Your opinion of a bad design or beekeeping practices are just that, your opinion, it is niether factual or backed up by hands on experience. You may have built houses or what ever, but have you ever built a trailer? Have you ever had more than 10 hives at once? Have you ever experienced multiple problems within the hive? You must be the most successful beekeeper in history because I have never seen you ask a question on the status of your hives, or are you to proud to ask for someones opinion??

If someone has a question about their hive status, and you have personally experienced that particular problem, then feel free to post your opinion, but I can guess that most o your replies to peoples questions are from a textbook. If I followed everything I read in books, I would be lost. I am a hands on type of person and learn a lot better from MY mistakes, and yes, I am not even close to perfect and make plenty of mistakes, but I am not to proud to admit them or ask for help.

The answer to your question of " Shoud I keep quiet " is..................YES, please!! 

I can be a bit touchy and grouchy, kinda like bees................and trust me, I am trying really hard to be corgial and abide by forum guide lines while dealing with you, but only because I really like this site and the unlimited sources of information it has to offer. There are some really great people here with tons of knowledge that I try to absorb like a sponge because I admit..............im not a know it all.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

waynesgarden said:


> I'm using a truck now to move hives, but previously I used a Tractor Supply trailer towed behind my Geo Tracker with no problems. Apparently, from the previous posts, I've been fortunate since I have Acebird on permanent ignore and and am blissfully unaware of what I've been doing wrong and the dangers I've been risking.
> 
> I do like the idea of a longer trailer with hives permanently mounted in a bear-proof cage.
> 
> Wayne


I might check into that ignore function soon just so I can stop beating my head on the wall!! 

To keep on track with the thread, I also currently move hives with my truck but just see the ease of trailering my hives to different locations by a simple process of strap down, hook up and go!! And the most important thing, saving my back for other things like removing full supers!!LOL

I just like seeing everyones trailer designs and the ease of operation that can be had and it makes me wish I would have had a trailer sooner!! 

Take care bud!!


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

BeeGhost said:


> I might check into that ignore function soon just so I can stop beating my head on the wall!!


It easy to visualize [virtualize] that _ignore _function .... just assume that everything Acebird is posting is *really intended *for the Joke forum linked here: 
[/http://www.beesource.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?277-Joke-Humor-Forum

Here a memorable thread that the bird turned into a joke. Telling (arguing with) Beesource member _Maxant _on how to properly design and manufacture an extractor ...
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?259275-Extracting-honey
It includes this fine quote regarding Maxant extractors:


Acebird said:


> Otherwise labeling your equipment quality made is a joke.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Wow Radar!! I didnt see that thread!! That is simply amazing and absolutely disrespectful to a well known name in the industry. 

When I posted a thread on my homemade extractor MAXANT even complimented it, which I thought was really cool coming from an extractor manufacturer!! There was no reply about how it wouldnt work and that I need to buy his extractor, and that is classy. I knew right then and there when I got ready to drop a dime on a real extractor, it would be from MAXANT, period.

The bird claims to have a knack for engineering..................has anyone seen his extractor yet?? Its interesting to say the least. And remember this fine qoute, "ceiling fans do not collect dust".......................:scratch:


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## Rader Sidetrack (Nov 30, 2011)

BeeGhost said:


> When I posted a thread on my homemade extractor MAXANT even complimented it, which I thought was really cool coming from an extractor manufacturer!!


That was a very interesting thread, involving utilizing the motor and variable speed control system from a discarded treadmill to power a _home engineered _extractor. It prompted me to watch for a similar unwanted treadmill.
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?271001-My-home-made-extractor!
I haven't built the extractor yet, but am gathering parts, and hope to this winter. (My bee club does offer a free extractor loan, so building my own can be a lesser priority.)


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Goodluck with the winter project Radar!! It was a fun build!! If I would have done anything different, I would make a metal stand out of 1 3/4" extrusion. Then I would use 1 1/2" extrusion concreted into (4) five gallon buckets and just pick the extractor up and set it onto the "bucket bases", this would cut down the shimmying a lot!!! Hmmmmmm...................looks like I will be needing to do this over the winter!!


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

Here is one someone from Romania? Shared on my facebook page. I love the stuff from Europe and other cultures:


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Dont let the bird see that...........he will have an absolute heart attack!!LOL


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Lauri said:


> Here is one someone from Romania? Shared on my facebook page. I love the stuff from Europe and other cultures:


That's one European design I will skip. Climb up onto that rack to do all the bee work in that tight isle? How do you super the bottom row? Tough on the back to work the bottom row and tough on the back to work the top row. Must be for pollination or small crops. I like the moveable rack idea, similare to my BeeBed, but the double stacking would not work for me.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

BeeGhost said:


> Dont let the bird see that...........he will have an absolute heart attack!!LOL


Why? you really need to get a life. Do I have that much influence on your thoughts?

Odfrank, how can you know what this is use for just from a photo?


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Acebird said:


> Odfrank, how can you know what this is use for just from a photo?


I am not an engineer, I use common sense.

If it was for honey production...you could not add additional supers to the bottom row and the top row is very high up and hard to add supers to or get them off so it would only be good for small and medium size crops. The hives are so inconvenient to work it is not for queen rearing, too big for mating nucs. If it is just for hive moving it looks hard to load. I'm left with pollination. Any other ideas? Looks inconvenient for any use to me.


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## StevenG (Mar 27, 2009)

Here's another thing for you folks who start using a trailer. I have a 10' long 2x12, and I back my pickup up to the trailer with the tailgate down. I lay the 2x12 from the pickup to the trailer bed. That way I simply walk from the trailer to the bed of my pickup to stack allllll those full honey supers! Be sure to watch where you're going though, the fall could be a problem with a full super... both for you and the super. 
Regards,
Steven


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## Lauri (Feb 1, 2012)

In viewing a lot of youtube videos with Russian beekeepers, I do notice, (And that's what I like about them) that many times they are just working with materials that are available to them..most likley salvaged and free. I am guessing this trailer/stand might have just been something they had on hand and tried to use it for the bee hives. Maybe not the best set up, but if it was free...
They are inventive and thrifty..same with the German videos..old time craftsmanship-no Walmart for them.

Here is the facebook page of the person who posted this photo-look for yourself:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/пчеларство-България/103043106445551?ref=stream

Lauri Miller
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Miller-Compound-HoneyBees-and-Agriculture/256954971040510


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Acebird said:


> Why? you really need to get a life. Do I have that much influence on your thoughts?
> 
> Odfrank, how can you know what this is use for just from a photo?


I have a great life actually! I just know that when someone posts something on this site it won't be long before your two cents is posted, I have you patterned and it is bothering you. I wouldn't say you have influence on me, however I am living rent free in your head.

As odfrank said, you don't have to be an engineer to figure out how tough it would be to work those hives, look how much space is between the DEEP super and the upper hives, now imagine trying to work 90# of honey filled box off that lower tier! Common sense tells me that operation could be a potential back breaker. 

And just imagine how top heavy that thing is and what could happen in a cross wind?


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Lauri, 

I googled "pictures of beehives on trailers" and about 90% were from European countries, some very innovative and heavy duty trailers there! Some even looked like a gypsi style trailer with sides that would fold up for transport and winterizing.


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## wildbranch2007 (Dec 3, 2008)

after studying the trailer for hours, I figure the bottom hives are on rollers, the beek rolls out the bottom hive to the isle down the middle, works it, then stands on that hive to work the top hive, using acebirds scientific methods, i've determined that the beek must bee 6'6" to reach the top boxes, so its rulled out for most of us.:thumbsup:


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...44794.103043106445551&type=1&relevant_count=1

I think it is purpose built like this one that fits on a flat bed. My guess would be for pollination. Real quick to load and unload.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Acebird said:


> My guess would be for pollination. Real quick to load and unload.


That would be my guess also, due to the obvious visual of sunflowers in the picture.


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## BeeCurious (Aug 7, 2007)

BeeGhost,

Check these out : http://www.google.ca/search?q=remor...AHUx4HAAQ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=569&bih=239#p=0


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## lakebilly (Aug 3, 2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFz5Blx4upo&feature=related This one looks like a Lauri built. Very cool.


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## odfrank (May 13, 2002)

Lots of complicated ones:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkMpbW5Jjs0&feature=endscreen&NR=1


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## dingo983 (Feb 10, 2011)

I want to set up a trailer once my beeyard is full on my own property. What do you use to secure the trailer when it is left in a remote area?


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## seyc (Jul 15, 2012)

Secure from people or secure from bears?

I like this idea.


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

ODfrank,

That system is very neat!! But with my luck I would end up shoving hives right off the end or the stand would tip over or something!!


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

BeeCurious said:


> BeeGhost,
> 
> Check these out : http://www.google.ca/search?q=remor...AHUx4HAAQ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=569&bih=239#p=0


Thanks for the link BC!! Some cool pictures, and some of those trailers look like apiary tanks!!


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

dingo983 said:


> I want to set up a trailer once my beeyard is full on my own property. What do you use to secure the trailer when it is left in a remote area?


No experience yet here, but I imagine you should be good if your chalk the tires so it cant roll, or set blocks on the corners after jacking up the trailer to lift the wheels off the ground. And depending on if your in bear country some sort of cage or electric fencing.

I plan on installing removable posts to run an electric wire around the trailer to prevent the cows from rubbing on the trailer, but I dont have to worry about bears here!!


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## dingo983 (Feb 10, 2011)

Sorry. I should have clarified. I was curious how would you secure a trailer to protect it from agricultural theft. Some one driving up in the middle of the night, hooking the trailer up and driving away with your trailer and hives.


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## seyc (Jul 15, 2012)

dingo983 said:


> Sorry. I should have clarified. I was curious how would you secure a trailer to protect it from agricultural theft. Some one driving up in the middle of the night, hooking the trailer up and driving away with your trailer and hives.


This is the first thing that came up in a search for "trailer hitch lock."

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&N=0&Ntk=All&Ntt=trailer%20hitch%20lock&Nty=1&D=trailer%20hitch%20lock&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Dx=mode%20matchallpartial&cmnosearch=PPC&cm_ven=google_PPC&cm_cat=Trailers&cm_pla=generic&cm_ite=trailer%20hitch%20lock&mkwid=sNmY9QxAi&pcrid=15446963831&mt=e


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## BeeGhost (May 7, 2011)

Dingo, 

A trailer hitch lock would be good, but unfortunately with all the portable power tools these days, if someone wants something bad enough it can be had. The best thing to do is hide the trailer from roadways and prying eyes the best you can, or put plywood sides on the trailer like odfrank has and face the entrances to the center of the trailer. 

My hives are currently visible from the road but behind a locked gate, and most passer bys don't want anything to do with stinging insects, but then those few dirtbags that know bees and want to help themselves will do it at will.


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## oblib (Oct 28, 2011)

If it is going to be in one spot for a while you could also consider removing the wheels after it is jacked up and leveled. I probably wouldn't want to do that if it was only going to be there for a week, but if it was going to be there a month or more.....


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## compaq23 (Sep 25, 2014)

dingo983 said:


> I want to set up a trailer once my beeyard is full on my own property. What do you use to secure the trailer when it is left in a remote area?


That is reason why we in Europe set up beehives on platforms. When you arrive on spot, just have to lift platform with beehives off trailer ( that is done with platform stands or "legs", as we call it ),and pull trailer back home. Since platform is custom made to pair only with your trailer we have less problems with thieves.


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## Acebird (Mar 17, 2011)

If a criminal has a desire to steal almost nothing will stop him.


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## compaq23 (Sep 25, 2014)

Acebird said:


> If a criminal has a desire to steal almost nothing will stop him.


Actually, crime is not interested in beehives, only in vehicle parts (wheels, tyres, lights etc..)


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## my2cents (Jul 9, 2015)

I have been thinking of this as well, I just read 4 pages of post. A lot off topic! But, some of the ideas I have is to build a purpose built trailer. With a removable tongue that uses something similar to a receiver hitch in function. Pin / unpin the tongue as needed. Also to use some leveling stands like used for a travel trailer, and also remove the tires using a electric or air operated lug gun, if you will.
I use pallets that have two 8 frame hives on each. I would build it so I could walk down the middle and work the hives. I would use the lowboy style tension trailer axles to keep center of mass down.
When necessary, I could use a strap from side to side to prevent movement or to prevent bears from toppling them over or destroying them, unless they clawed their way in. I do like the idea of using a solar powered fence to deter them. Ideally you could keep a 12 volt battery charged to use an electric wheel lug gun powered as well as a winch.
I have considered placing a over head trolly type track like used on a funeral vault truck with a set of forks to do the lifting from front to back.
I do not claim to be an engineer. But, I do try to think out the possibilities before I begin a project.
I think I will use expanded metal on the bottom of the trailer so trash can fall through. Not real need for it under the pallets as long as you have support running from front to rear.
This would basically work out that you could put 32 hives on a 16 foot trailer. That is approximate.
All hives would set facing outside, entrances to the edge. When in transit, I could either use OSB as sides or netting.


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## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

> ...almost nothing will stop him

Sometimes almost nothing works quite well...


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