# bucket feeders



## fish_stix (May 17, 2009)

You can buy the yellow feeder screen plugs from Betterbee and maybe others too. Best to buy the buckets also, as they have a die cut hole for the plugs and they fit tight. Put the lids on and leave them on as removing them a few times will result in the lid gasket leaking. Fill by pulling out the screen plug. You can also just drill several small holes in a bucket lid (1/32" or less). When you fill the bucket, overfill it a little, turn it upside down until the flow stops and then set it on the hive. I've used 1 and 2 gal buckets; no preference.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

We have numerous 2 gal pails with 20-30 small holes (1/16 th?? need to measure). The lids are removable with a home made delidder(spring loaded hook on a hinged lever) With the current disease situation, we appreciate the fact that they can be rinsed out at the end of the year, and stored nested. 

We also have a few 4 gal pails that we like better. It is easier to put 2 gallons in a 4 gallon pail than it is 4 gallons in a 2 gallon pail. Also fewer trips with the 4 gallon pail. 

We searched the pail manufacturers for a pail with a lid that can be removed and resealed. Be careful. Most seem to be single use, or you will have to use the plug, of which we also have a few, and seem to be a pain.

We are working on a plan B and C, there has to be something better. Frame feeders don't hold 4 gallons, and hive top feeders seem to be to far away from the bees.

Roland


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## Allen Martens (Jan 13, 2007)

swarm_trapper said:


> ok So for the last several years i have been open feeding and before that frame feeders. but am looking a little at using buckets for feeding so i would like to hear some input.


Why are you wanting to move away from open feeding?


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## swarm_trapper (Jun 19, 2003)

well im not sure if i will yet i alway like to try other things the few problems with open feeding is that you have the possibility of feeding others bees, im not too worried about that but another problem i have is that the small ones do not get the feed they need the big get bigger and the small get smaller. I know a lot of guys that use the 5lb quart jars but would like to feed more than that and breakage and they are expensive. 
Nick


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## Allen Martens (Jan 13, 2007)

swarm_trapper said:


> but another problem i have is that the small ones do not get the feed they need the big get bigger and the small get smaller.


I've always seen that as a positive. The small ones don't need much, the large ones get enough so they don't starve in winter, and not much feed is wasted on those that aren't queen right.


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## BigDaddyDS (Aug 28, 2007)

I was curious on your decision to move away from open feeding too.

My solution to the strong getting stronger and the weak ones not getting enough feed is to split out the strong ones! I found that open feeding works best if ALL the hives are equal in strength. That also helps to prevent possible robbing later on, too.


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## Beeslave (Feb 6, 2009)

When using pails don't cut the tabs that allow you to take the lid off easier. That will greatly reduce the life of the lid and seal. Use a pot(ideally it is rectangle shaped with enough room for 2 pails side by side) of water over a propane burner. When taking the lids off let each pail set in the hot(boiling) water for a few seconds.

If you need to feed 2 or more pails to each hive then use the plastic plug method. Have the fill plug on the lid, not on the pail bottom. When the plug is on the pail bottom for filling without tipping the pail over you will loose to much syrup if the plug isn't airtight. When it(plug) is in the lid and not airtight the syrup won't leak out.

Either way works fine but you still need to get the lids off at the end of each season and give the pails a good dip in bleach water solution before stacking together. They are much easier to clean when it syrup being washed off instead of 6 months of crud growing on that old syrup.


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## Specialkayme (Sep 4, 2005)

I'm not a commercial operation, but I will say I've preferred pail feeders from the beginning. It be because that's what my mentor preferred, who knows. Pails were the first thing I tried, and loved them. Every other type just seemed more problematic than necessary.

Open feeding seems great in theory, but I usually don't feed all of my hives, just the ones that are low on stores (even if they are all equal in size). Open feeding doesn't give the hives with low stores more feed, while leaving alone the ones with ample stores.


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## jkola404 (Jan 8, 2008)

If you are going to switch go with the 2 or 3 gallon, you will be making to many trips using the 1 gallon. We have about 5-10 holes in the cover, I will also have to check what size. We place the pail onto the inner cover and then use our old deep boxes to place around the pail and then the tele cover ontop. 

We use both white and black pails and have not noticed a difference yet. some of our white pails my dad has been using for 20+ years. 

We fill them out of a 300 gallon milk tank that we heat with a hotwater heater.


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## Beeslave (Feb 6, 2009)

Look at the uv rating of the pails. Some get brittle faster than others when in the sun.

If you are feeding fumagillin in the syrup the black pails may be better at blocking the sunlight keeping the drug active longer.

If it is cool out the black pails may warm the syrup for the bees but may cause more leakage by the syrup expanding each time it is warmed by the sun.


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## swarm_trapper (Jun 19, 2003)

thanks for the ideas i think ill go with white buckets so do you think the plug in the cap is a better way to fill them? it seems like it would be quicker. 

How fast can a average hive of bees take the syrup down out of a pail with the three hole lid. 

thanks Nick


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## Beeslave (Feb 6, 2009)

3 small holes and thin syrup= 2-3 weeks for 2 gal used for stimulation.

20-30 small holes and heavy syrup= about 1 week on strong hives to put on weight.


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## Roland (Dec 14, 2008)

Rough numbers, a week to drain the 2 gallon pails, and 2 weeks for the 4 gallon pails. The holes do not seem to make much difference. Some of the 4 gallons have only the 2" dia screen in the center, and drain about as fast as those with 3 screens or 20-30 tiny holes.

Roland


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## swarm_trapper (Jun 19, 2003)

what size plug to people use in the bucket lids for refilling 1 1/2? that is what im thinking of going with.


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## danno (Dec 17, 2007)

I have 3 gal pails that have a 2" threaded cap on the lid for filling. For holes I have a 1 1/2" hole in the center with a stainless screen siliconed over it. On occasions the bees propolis it. A quick blast with a torch opens it back up. Nick My body Mark Y is looking to buy about 600 pails and have them shipped down there. Maybe you 2 could hook up and order together to save on shipping and maybe cut a better deal on pail price


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## Beeslave (Feb 6, 2009)

The plugs I have seen used for filling are just big enough for the syrup nozzle to fit in. I think they were 1".

www.Alliance-Express.com


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## swarm_trapper (Jun 19, 2003)

thanks danno i just bought a bunch today to try. im getting a sample of the 1 1/2 cap pug to try and see how it works. Nick


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