# Dead Warre



## johnsof (Oct 14, 2014)

What do you mean by "ordered new colony"? Do you mean you have ordered a package? And a new hive and another package? Or are you getting a working hive? 

If you've simply got a Warré "kit" and a couple of packages coming, I know what I would do - I'd take two boxes, put some empty comb, maybe 2-3 bars, in the middle and put a bar with honey on both outsides, this means leaving an empty bar or two between, and use one of these boxes for each new package. Once the boxes are 75%-80% drawn out I'd then nadir a new box under with some bars with old comb if I still had more left. The remaining honey I'd eat.

But others may have different thoughts about this and I would really be interested in hearing what they would have to say! 

Fred J.
cold Wisconsin....


----------



## enjambres (Jun 30, 2013)

Wax moths will not be problem in an unoccupied hive in Lexington, MA over the next month. If any still exist in the hive they will freeze to death.

Mice, OTOH, will find the bed 'n breakfast irresistable, so make sure your boxes are completely, totally, impenetrably mouse proof. 

Enj.


----------



## Kennethansin (Aug 28, 2014)

Yes, sorry, meant that I've ordered a couple new packages to install in the old hive and a new one. So your advice is on the mark. I plan to bring the dead hive inside this week and start the transplanting process of honey and comb in preparation for the two new packages (one for the new hive and one for the dead hive). 
Only related question, any tips for how to install bees in a Warre which already has some honey and comb? Same as with an empty Warre hive, more or less?


----------



## Kennethansin (Aug 28, 2014)

Got it. I've got the mouse guard still firmly nailed onto the front door of the inn.


----------



## johnsof (Oct 14, 2014)

Yep, you can put in the new packages just like always. You should have a couple of empty bars and can put the queen cage in the space where one of the bars would be, and remove the empty cage in a few days. Good luck.


----------



## Kennethansin (Aug 28, 2014)

This sounds like a great plan. Today I brought in the whole hive and will begin the cleaning/bar and comb-honey movement to seed both hives. To think that the new packages are here at the end of the month...better get a lot of melting between now and then. 
Thanks for your help.


----------



## Kennethansin (Aug 28, 2014)

My hive may be unusual but when I opened it up last night to rejigger the bars as recommended I was struck by how many combs were built out diagonal to the bars. Needless to say it was a sticky mess when I was done playing surgeon. I must have spaced the bars wrong?


----------



## BernhardHeuvel (Mar 13, 2013)

Do you use wax starter strips?


----------



## Kennethansin (Aug 28, 2014)

I paint virgin beeswax on the bars.


----------



## BernhardHeuvel (Mar 13, 2013)

Unsufficient. Get real starter strips.


----------



## Michael Bush (Aug 2, 2002)

I would use wood strips or wood bevels. I would not wax them. I would never use just a wax bead. And if you just painted wax on the bars with no specific edge for them to draw from, I would have no expectation of any combs landing on the bars...

http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfoundationless.htm#combguide
http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm#guide


----------



## Houstonbees (Jul 7, 2014)

I've got flat top bars in my Warre with a notch at each end that engage a small nail on either of the rabbeted rails. As a guide that has worked perfectly so far, I've stretched a string between the notches and "painted" the string with melted wax onto what will be the bottom side of the top bar. No cross combs so far!


----------

